Pretty much anything Wes does is interesting and entertaining. His demeanor is a big part of it. Him and Darren Mustie1 are my favorite Sunday afternoon watch list.
Just did a ‘02 plow truck last month with Nicop. 6’ bed, accidentally ordered for an 8’. Cut and flared most for length anyway. It all worked out, Mapp gas got the bleeders, Nice to watch somebody else enjoying the nightmare. 😊
With price of new vehicles so high, people are keeping their vehicles longer as long as they can find a good mechanic like you to keep them going. That old truck was in better shape than most that have bad rust on the frame and body. Thanks for sharing, I know that recording, editing and rendering a video takes a lot of time and effort.
In over 50 years of working on cars I have never lost a fight with a brake bleeder screw. I am sure you have done more than me , but the way you do it is basically the way I do. Only the problem I have had with those replacement lines are the flares leaking. Touch them up with a flaring tool. Always the hardest ones to get to after installing.
I did the same job on my 2003 GMC Duramax long bed ext cab back in around 2013.. Got them stainless lines, and new bleed screws all around. I had to drill two of the bleed screws. I also installed stainless shielded brake hoses.. I did it in my driveway, without a lift. I found the front right wheel was an absolute pain. I remember having to tighten them lines like crazy. I know you can get the front right one as a two piece one. Making it a bit easier.
I'm not laughing at you; I'm laughing with you, because exactly the same, except a '99 Tahoe, and on gravel, not pavement. It was about 2016 or 17, so 7 or 8 years ago. I was 60 then, and the only thing that saved me was 25 or more years working on other people's cars and trucks for a living. Even then, it was too hard on a well-used body. When the fuel lines go, as they do, I said screw it.
I bought pre-bent SS Tube set for my truck. Lines were bent to fit their respective locations just fine, but the flaring was poor. Both rear lines leaked at the fittings, at the rear hose junction block. Closer exam showed the flares were skewed/off center and were never going to seal. I bought some Nicopp and cut & flared both lines. Fit fine and no leaks. Check your lines' flares right out of the box.
I was worried there a bit - when I saw sparks flying I knew metal was being burned off the bleeder - considering as how Wes replaced them, no problem! Good afternoon, Clarence! Fun to run into you on another mutual channel!
At the OEM supplier, all of these hoses plus the fuel hoses are pre-bent then pre-assembled with all of the clips that tie them together and attach them onto the car, into a module that is shipped to the assembly plant as one piece. At the assembly plant (that I'm familiar with), after the bare body comes out of paint and goes into final assembly, the first thing that is assembled onto the bodyshell is that hose module. Everything else goes on afterward. You have my sympathies. 🙂
Those premade kits are a godsend. I don't know how they can make them and ship them so cheap, but I also don't care. They're worth every penny and then some.
They’ll be blasting them out with a CNC bender so the labour costs will be very low. The hard part for them will be getting all the measurements right, but that’s a one time thing.
All it takes is one well managed factory with one well managed tube department. These days I think they can 3D scan the OEM lines and quite easily bend their own using that info
@@jasonb6570 it's all about CNC tubing benders and volume. Set up the bender with the right size die and program and crank out batches of hundreds of the same line at a time.
Nice, a new video! Was quite baffling to see front brake lines going in strange ways under the car and not up until you pointed out where the ABS unit is :) And yes, you made a brake line replacement video interesting :)
I love to watch you do a repair / restore like this .. its therapeutic and it gives me hope that maybe I keep my new truck forever .. at least its nice to have that fantasy with how much these darn things cost.. Thanks for being one of the few master mechanics with Honor , Honesty and Integrity. Love ya brother !!
I just did this on my 2005 Chevy Suburban 1500 Z71 last summer! All brake lines replaced with the stainless kit. None were leaking, but the Electronic module on the valve went, and as soon as I tried loosening the first line, they all went south. Not a fun job laying on the ground to do!! Living in the rust belt known as Pittsburgh, and 300k on the odometer too!
I 100% am with you on the "oe solutions" line. It's some twilight zone of the dorman world. They actually somehow fix the problem that plagues the original parts and makes them better. I know. Strange as heck that it's Dorman behind it.
When you initially showed the leaking hose in the beginning I immediately remembered you talking about all the space in the dodge last week and it made me laugh a little.
Hey Wes 👋, nice job. It's always good to get kits for repairs, as long as you get a quality kit. Some of the aftermarket , I've seen have seen are a nightmare to get in place. . But thanks for sharing.
WWW videos show the honest truth about the hard work that mechanics have to do to keep your vehicle on the road. Wes, your videos are truly appreciated 🫶🏼
I can’t imagine and wouldn’t even try that job without a lift, like the one line at a time approach and the heat and chill to shock the rust on bleeders and the little tid-bit about slightly tighten before trying to loosening, good advice in my book, thanks for the video Wes, enjoyed watching.
I had to do this on my late wife's '99 Tahoe that I had delusions of driving in the winter here on the East Coast. My Mini was in no way equipped for winter driving, but alas and alack, the Tahoe was doing that nickle-dime thing that older vehicles sometimes do. Not long after, I donated it to charity, mainly for the tax write-off. I did get a similar kit, but it's been long enough now that I don't remember where I got it from. Let me say this about that: 1st, there was only ONE video on youtube that even covered replacing all the brake lines. It was pretty helpful, but he tended to make a lot of assumptions that a lot of folks could be misled. 2nd, if you don't have a lift, you might want to pass on this repair. Especially if one is at all conscientious about ripping out the old brake lines and so on. The most difficult part was the lines that go behind the gas tank, between it and the frame. Also: do the fuel lines at the same time. Don't do as I did and ignore them, because guess what? They're next to go.
I did a full set of brake lines on an 05 malibu classic earlier this year on jackstands. It really wasnt that bad. I used unions to split the lines in difficult areas where an entire section was impossible to install without major disassembly. Worked great
I just cleaned the company '06 duramax mouse house. All new fuses... the scat was causing a parasitic draw. Under the box was cozy with insulation, and chewed wires to the hpfuel pump and the climate control system. I have fantastic photos. Thanks to you and Eric O. I knew what was wrong at first sniff!!😅
Been there, done that on my 2000 Silverado a couple years ago. Replaced all the original bleeders wih "check ball" bleeders for one man bleeding. Worked good.
I was impressed with that Chevy 's frame, I didn't see any mouse expressways. And WOW, what a box full of spaghetti under the hood. Made me chuckle, I'm thinking of the wiring on my '48 Studebaker, not counting the battery cables I think there's only four wires needed under the hood.
I did this on my 06 and those clips were the vain of my existence.... I had to cut every line short and use a socket to get every line broke free. Did I mention I did this on my back in the gravel while it was 20F outside. It took me 2 days
I did the Dorman brake AND fuel lines on my 06. Much easier with the bed pulled but I have the luxury of wasting time on my vehicles. Other thing I did differently was to cut the front right line and couple it under the radiator, made it all easier. No leaks on anything when I finished up!
I just give up early and replace the calipers on the early 2000s chevys . I only get about two brake pad changes to a caliper . Central Illinois life lol.
I just replaced power steering,brake lines,CP3 pump,injectors,glow plugs and module ,most of the sensors,had TCM and FICM rebuilt new headlights on my 2004 3500 with the LLY WITH 281,000 MILES. IT WAS A MAJOR LEAGUE PAIN IN THE ASS,But worth it. The truck is like brand new I’m almost 70 and shouldn’t have do it again! One issue I had when got it back together I was getting a check engine light that the TCM was bad. Had it rebuilt still was getting the same issue. I bought a new glow plug module so I decided to plug the old back on and no check engine light. I bought one of cheap bastards from Amazon,Chinese junk. This old man learns something new everyday!
Thought the brake line kit was dumb when I was younger slinging parts, but after actually selling tons to some shops and seeing how they take the time to straighten out the bends for shipping and seeing the kits go in, I actually love the idea of it. Saves a ton of time for backyard DIY doing brakelines and not scabbing togther 20 lines or telling someone I absolutely won't sell them compression fittings they plan to use on their brake lines....compression fittings ughh, sore subject I know I know done right its fine but I doubt the average person is going to do it correctly...and I don't want selling those on my soul lol
I only know how to do this job when done on a crumbly asphalt driveway, wollering on my back with lots of slope. The day I get myself a lift Im going to put some patio furniture under my car on the lift and have a real nice lunch first.
The owner needs to watch a Project Farm video on headlight polishing kits. It will take about an hour. I think the last time Sylvania was the winner. It makes a legit difference.
My wife and I had a 2003 Silverado, a 1500. The brake lines rusted in twain while she was on the highway, and she had to stop a truck that had no brakes that was carrying the two most important people in my world. She managed to get it stopped safely. It blew my mind how rusted the brake lines were, because we are in Oklahoma and cars don't rust here.
I more than feel your pain this job.I made the same repair on my 99 F250 2yrs ago. I was crazy enough to do it on my back in the driveway!! I'll not make that mistake agin. Keep the videos coming they are always good.
As someone who lives in Atlanta, I find some of these videos interesting. Brake likes aren't a service item here. My 76 gmc sprint with over 150k miles has what I believe to be original brake lines. Also, ever notice if you hit the brakes in a hydroboost really fast it makes the pedal vibrate under your feet. It's fun explaining to a customer that they do that and you can't fix it.
I usually wipe some never seize on bleeders and brake line fittings. Yes it's like maple syrup, it gets everywhere. I also put bleeder caps on em in a vain attempt at almost catching up with the rust. I can remember snagging bleeder caps from Deutschland cars in the local u-pull-it junkyards in the 80s. I could usually crack the bleeders loose on Volkswagens that had rubber caps in place. My Pontiac and Chevy were another story cuz they were too cheap to put caps on at the factory.
I have an '06 Silverado 2500HD, and I've been thinking of tackling this before it becomes an issue, so I appreciate being able to see it done beforehand. I don't know if it works for stainless, but there's a trick I've heard of for brake fittings; if you tighten them, then back the nut off and retighten it a couple times, it can help to seat the flare. Might be worth trying!
Thanks Wes. You made it look very interesting and you made it look easy. What a crazy amount of work. Have you ever considered moving out of the rust belt? Like here to Colorado or somewhere else that doesn't manufacture rust quite so easy? Thanks for your videos. You are a pro!
Good video. I alway have issues in the area of the cab mount where the lines pass by. Also that line that runs to the rear along the frame - it takes some effort to get that in there. There's a 2011 Silverado 3500 HD here now with the GM black plastic coated lines. They're all shot. No pre-bent kits available for it. Stainless steel is the way to go with a kit. Replacing one line - copper/nickel is also good.
You should understand that we watch your videos because we like you, dont be so concerned about the content. thanks
100%.
Yes!
Nicely done! I'm showing this to my wife. She's always asking me why I need so many wrench sets.
And why we need a bigger tool box to put them all in.
“Might as well fill the thing with cheese.” 😂😂😂 Your deadpan humour is the icing on the content cake.
😅😅😅😅😅😅
I love that
Between this truck and the blue Dodge, you have new perpetual content machines!
Perpetual motion (picture) machines 😂
No broken bolts, no test drive? I feel robbed.😂 Thanks for the entertainment Wes!
Pretty much anything Wes does is interesting and entertaining.
His demeanor is a big part of it.
Him and Darren Mustie1 are my favorite Sunday afternoon watch list.
Just did a ‘02 plow truck last month with Nicop. 6’ bed, accidentally ordered for an 8’. Cut and flared most for length anyway. It all worked out, Mapp gas got the bleeders, Nice to watch somebody else enjoying the nightmare. 😊
Autozone sells warranty calipers. I replace them every 2.9999 years.
You know everyone that leaves your shop has a feeling of you done everything you could and done it right
You used every single wrench you had, but somehow you didn't use every swear you have.... You're a saint.😅
It's called editing, my friend :D
@@justjoe7313 Was jus going to say that lol.
I think the co-owner and operator of White Knuckle Towing oversees the rationing of swear words.
I did this on 99 F150 a year ago. Replaced every line after losing just one. You're spot on,if one fails do them all.
With price of new vehicles so high, people are keeping their vehicles longer as long as they can find a good mechanic like you to keep them going. That old truck was in better shape than most that have bad rust on the frame and body.
Thanks for sharing, I know that recording, editing and rendering a video takes a lot of time and effort.
In over 50 years of working on cars I have never lost a fight with a brake bleeder screw. I am sure you have done more than me , but the way you do it is basically the way I do. Only the problem I have had with those replacement lines are the flares leaking. Touch them up with a flaring tool. Always the hardest ones to get to after installing.
Dorman I am surprised there was no problems. Interesting video.
Those Dorman pre formed kits are a god send, I’ve replaced hundreds of them when I use to live in the rust belt
I did the same job on my 2003 GMC Duramax long bed ext cab back in around 2013.. Got them stainless lines, and new bleed screws all around. I had to drill two of the bleed screws. I also installed stainless shielded brake hoses.. I did it in my driveway, without a lift. I found the front right wheel was an absolute pain. I remember having to tighten them lines like crazy. I know you can get the front right one as a two piece one. Making it a bit easier.
I'm not laughing at you; I'm laughing with you, because exactly the same, except a '99 Tahoe, and on gravel, not pavement. It was about 2016 or 17, so 7 or 8 years ago. I was 60 then, and the only thing that saved me was 25 or more years working on other people's cars and trucks for a living. Even then, it was too hard on a well-used body. When the fuel lines go, as they do, I said screw it.
@@tetedur377 I replaced brake lines, transmission cooler lines AND the fuel lines with stainless. 2005 Duramax at just under 300,000 miles.
I bought pre-bent SS Tube set for my truck. Lines were bent to fit their respective locations just fine, but the flaring was poor. Both rear lines leaked at the fittings, at the rear hose junction block. Closer exam showed the flares were skewed/off center and were never going to seal. I bought some Nicopp and cut & flared both lines. Fit fine and no leaks. Check your lines' flares right out of the box.
After a few seconds of you turning the bleeders I found myself holding my breath 😂
Great comment. Me too.
I prefer to heat items red hot then let them air cool.
But the method Wes used seems to work also.
I was worried there a bit - when I saw sparks flying I knew metal was being burned off the bleeder - considering as how Wes replaced them, no problem! Good afternoon, Clarence! Fun to run into you on another mutual channel!
@ Hello Sam Mary Christmas.
At the OEM supplier, all of these hoses plus the fuel hoses are pre-bent then pre-assembled with all of the clips that tie them together and attach them onto the car, into a module that is shipped to the assembly plant as one piece. At the assembly plant (that I'm familiar with), after the bare body comes out of paint and goes into final assembly, the first thing that is assembled onto the bodyshell is that hose module. Everything else goes on afterward.
You have my sympathies. 🙂
I've done 4 of those trucks so far. I can only imagine how nice it would have been with a hoist 😂
Those premade kits are a godsend. I don't know how they can make them and ship them so cheap, but I also don't care. They're worth every penny and then some.
Slave labor in Ch i na
They’ll be blasting them out with a CNC bender so the labour costs will be very low. The hard part for them will be getting all the measurements right, but that’s a one time thing.
All it takes is one well managed factory with one well managed tube department. These days I think they can 3D scan the OEM lines and quite easily bend their own using that info
@@jasonb6570 it's all about CNC tubing benders and volume. Set up the bender with the right size die and program and crank out batches of hundreds of the same line at a time.
Braking News! Nice work on that one, Wes.
Owner might think about scheduling his rig for some 'cataract surgery', so he could see better at night!
I could watch you make and put in brake lines for an hour and still be mostly entertained, i just like watching chill videos of mechanic work
I was just doing brakes on my 09 Tahoe a few hours ago and here comes this video. In the northeast…you’re not alone.
8:44 Stainless is harder than the lines that came off, then you get to battle the work hardening of a double flare.
Now I have an idea as to what my BIL went thru when he replaced the lines on his 86 2500 truck, on the ground, on his back!! Thanks for posting!!
Brake lines may not be very interesting, but your commentary is worth the price of admission. Keep up the great work. Happy holidays to you and yours.
Nice, a new video!
Was quite baffling to see front brake lines going in strange ways under the car and not up until you pointed out where the ABS unit is :)
And yes, you made a brake line replacement video interesting :)
West is another you tuber mechanic I wish I lived closer to.
They are all over the internet but when you go to find them IRL… there’s just Mavis and jiffy lube hacks.
West
No problem. I sat and enjoyed watching and listening to your narrative. Looking forward to many more.
Cheers!
I love to watch you do a repair / restore like this .. its therapeutic and it gives me hope that maybe I keep my new truck forever .. at least its nice to have that fantasy with how much these darn things cost.. Thanks for being one of the few master mechanics with Honor , Honesty and Integrity. Love ya brother !!
Wes, any content you put out is great... Dorman figures out brake lines but GM can't.. Got it.. Way to go GM..
I just did this on my 2005 Chevy Suburban 1500 Z71 last summer! All brake lines replaced with the stainless kit. None were leaking, but the Electronic module on the valve went, and as soon as I tried loosening the first line, they all went south. Not a fun job laying on the ground to do!! Living in the rust belt known as Pittsburgh, and 300k on the odometer too!
3:32 I use to use a muffler gun with a blunt end tool on it and beat up the area around the bleeder to loosen them. Worked 98% of the time.
I 100% am with you on the "oe solutions" line. It's some twilight zone of the dorman world. They actually somehow fix the problem that plagues the original parts and makes them better. I know. Strange as heck that it's Dorman behind it.
When you initially showed the leaking hose in the beginning I immediately remembered you talking about all the space in the dodge last week and it made me laugh a little.
Hey Wes 👋, nice job. It's always good to get kits for repairs, as long as you get a quality kit. Some of the aftermarket , I've seen have seen are a nightmare to get in place. . But thanks for sharing.
WWW videos show the honest truth about the hard work that mechanics have to do to keep your vehicle on the road. Wes, your videos are truly appreciated 🫶🏼
I am so glad my '05 2500 only left Florida to take the camper to Ft. Worth and back. One thing I never thought I would ever say " Dorman for the win "
Don't worry about your content WES, I would watch you if you were baking bread.
I can’t imagine and wouldn’t even try that job without a lift, like the one line at a time approach and the heat and chill to shock the rust on bleeders and the little tid-bit about slightly tighten before trying to loosening, good advice in my book, thanks for the video Wes, enjoyed watching.
I had to do this on my late wife's '99 Tahoe that I had delusions of driving in the winter here on the East Coast. My Mini was in no way equipped for winter driving, but alas and alack, the Tahoe was doing that nickle-dime thing that older vehicles sometimes do. Not long after, I donated it to charity, mainly for the tax write-off.
I did get a similar kit, but it's been long enough now that I don't remember where I got it from.
Let me say this about that: 1st, there was only ONE video on youtube that even covered replacing all the brake lines. It was pretty helpful, but he tended to make a lot of assumptions that a lot of folks could be misled.
2nd, if you don't have a lift, you might want to pass on this repair. Especially if one is at all conscientious about ripping out the old brake lines and so on. The most difficult part was the lines that go behind the gas tank, between it and the frame.
Also: do the fuel lines at the same time. Don't do as I did and ignore them, because guess what? They're next to go.
I did a full set of brake lines on an 05 malibu classic earlier this year on jackstands. It really wasnt that bad. I used unions to split the lines in difficult areas where an entire section was impossible to install without major disassembly. Worked great
I just cleaned the company '06 duramax mouse house. All new fuses... the scat was causing a parasitic draw.
Under the box was cozy with insulation, and chewed wires to the hpfuel pump and the climate control system. I have fantastic photos.
Thanks to you and Eric O. I knew what was wrong at first sniff!!😅
Excellent Video Wes 👍 I remember this truck in a previous video. The brake lines were looking in very bad shape.
Been there, done that on my 2000 Silverado a couple years ago. Replaced all the original bleeders wih "check ball" bleeders for one man bleeding. Worked good.
I've used that set before, you have to tighten them to the point the nuts are about to round off to stop them from leaking. Great job Wes!
Dang it Wes...give me a brake...
....I'll see myself out lol!
Oh, stop!
You’ve set the bar even higher with this one! Straight fire.
Wes sets truck on fire with torch..."Theres your problem mister!" 🤣
I was impressed with that Chevy 's frame, I didn't see any mouse expressways. And WOW, what a box full of spaghetti under the hood. Made me chuckle, I'm thinking of the wiring on my '48 Studebaker, not counting the battery cables I think there's only four wires needed under the hood.
I wonder if one of those induction heater for bolts and metal forming would work for those rust bolts
I bet it would.
I was just exposed to the "hydro-boost" last week in a company work truck, had no idea why it was there, TY.
I find flushing fluid for hydroboost and power steering greatly improves
Brake pedal.
I do mine about every 60k miles.
Great Brake Line Job, Wes. Great video too. Thank you. Say hello to the wife/tow master.
All your videos are worth watching as long as you don't complain.
I did this on my 06 and those clips were the vain of my existence.... I had to cut every line short and use a socket to get every line broke free. Did I mention I did this on my back in the gravel while it was 20F outside. It took me 2 days
"might as well fill this thing with cheese". Priceless!
I did the Dorman brake AND fuel lines on my 06. Much easier with the bed pulled but I have the luxury of wasting time on my vehicles. Other thing I did differently was to cut the front right line and couple it under the radiator, made it all easier. No leaks on anything when I finished up!
I am watching you on the third on, and I caught myself saying out loud "Nice!!"
I just give up early and replace the calipers on the early 2000s chevys . I only get about two brake pad changes to a caliper . Central Illinois life lol.
Hello Mr. Thank you for the video(s).
@4:55 PB blaster, use a dead blow to impact and actually tighten until you hear a crack, it has a better chance of cracking loose.
Loved every minute of it. Brakes be darned, they make a good video.
You know a guy loves his truck when he treats it to a wonderful Fram oil filter.. lol.
If wix would put a grip on the filter like fram my life would be a lot easier.
Well on the upside, I didn’t see you bleed Wes.Thanks for the brake line tour!
Way to work Wes another job completed.
I just replaced power steering,brake lines,CP3 pump,injectors,glow plugs and module ,most of the sensors,had TCM and FICM rebuilt new headlights on my 2004 3500 with the LLY WITH 281,000 MILES. IT WAS A MAJOR LEAGUE PAIN IN THE ASS,But worth it. The truck is like brand new I’m almost 70 and shouldn’t have do it again! One issue I had when got it back together I was getting a check engine light that the TCM was bad. Had it rebuilt still was getting the same issue. I bought a new glow plug module so I decided to plug the old back on and no check engine light. I bought one of cheap bastards from Amazon,Chinese junk. This old man learns something new everyday!
Thought the brake line kit was dumb when I was younger slinging parts, but after actually selling tons to some shops and seeing how they take the time to straighten out the bends for shipping and seeing the kits go in, I actually love the idea of it. Saves a ton of time for backyard DIY doing brakelines and not scabbing togther 20 lines or telling someone I absolutely won't sell them compression fittings they plan to use on their brake lines....compression fittings ughh, sore subject I know I know done right its fine but I doubt the average person is going to do it correctly...and I don't want selling those on my soul lol
I don't envy you working on those rusty vehicles. Thanks Wes!
'this one's not too bad' .... yikes! reminds me why I left Indiana for the dry west!
I only know how to do this job when done on a crumbly asphalt driveway, wollering on my back with lots of slope. The day I get myself a lift Im going to put some patio furniture under my car on the lift and have a real nice lunch first.
The owner needs to watch a Project Farm video on headlight polishing kits. It will take about an hour. I think the last time Sylvania was the winner. It makes a legit difference.
Wes, I am sure your 'Observations' could make an interesting video watching paint dry.
Great video,thanks for bringing us along
A good days work... but a happy customer !
Great job, Wes. Always something to learn from you.
Happy Holidays to you and your family Wes.
Nice going, Wes, Merry Christmas to you and your family
Good video. Thnx Wes. Be Well
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
My wife and I had a 2003 Silverado, a 1500. The brake lines rusted in twain while she was on the highway, and she had to stop a truck that had no brakes that was carrying the two most important people in my world. She managed to get it stopped safely. It blew my mind how rusted the brake lines were, because we are in Oklahoma and cars don't rust here.
Probably rear line next to the drivers rear tire? Frame collects dirt that holds moisture that the line sits in and it disintegrates.
I more than feel your pain this job.I made the same repair on my 99 F250 2yrs ago. I was crazy enough to do it on my back in the driveway!! I'll not make that mistake agin. Keep the videos coming they are always good.
As someone who lives in Atlanta, I find some of these videos interesting. Brake likes aren't a service item here. My 76 gmc sprint with over 150k miles has what I believe to be original brake lines.
Also, ever notice if you hit the brakes in a hydroboost really fast it makes the pedal vibrate under your feet. It's fun explaining to a customer that they do that and you can't fix it.
Thanks for the video Wes. Always a treat.
I usually wipe some never seize on bleeders and brake line fittings. Yes it's like maple syrup, it gets everywhere.
I also put bleeder caps on em in a vain attempt at almost catching up with the rust. I can remember snagging bleeder caps from Deutschland cars in the local u-pull-it junkyards in the 80s. I could usually crack the bleeders loose on Volkswagens that had rubber caps in place. My Pontiac and Chevy were another story cuz they were too cheap to put caps on at the factory.
I don’t live far from where this is filmed. Any full-size pick up with rockers cab corners and spring mounts is impressive.
great video.......... the process is relaxing.
When I was working at Napa seems like we sold these kits almost weekly.
Nice to see you again.
Thanks for posting Wes
Been looking forward to your video all day.
My grandpa showed me if it's really stuck torch it then hit it with ice water soaked sponge works for me every time
Any video you post will be amazing thank you Wes
I did this to my dad's 04 silverado 1500. Same kit and I totally agree, only way to go even though it took me forever as a non professional mechanic.
Thanks Wes, I have a 2001 GMC 2500hd, >300k on the clock.
The Hydro Pump Pulley is quite a Bear...
remember we're here to watch Wes work. doesn't matter what and how.
Great job Wes ,you didn’t even use a curse word,
Wes your repair videos are entertaining and educational keep em coming.
I have an '06 Silverado 2500HD, and I've been thinking of tackling this before it becomes an issue, so I appreciate being able to see it done beforehand. I don't know if it works for stainless, but there's a trick I've heard of for brake fittings; if you tighten them, then back the nut off and retighten it a couple times, it can help to seat the flare. Might be worth trying!
Thanks Wes. You made it look very interesting and you made it look easy. What a crazy amount of work. Have you ever considered moving out of the rust belt? Like here to Colorado or somewhere else that doesn't manufacture rust quite so easy? Thanks for your videos. You are a pro!
Good video.
I alway have issues in the area of the cab mount where the lines pass by. Also that line that runs to the rear along the frame - it takes some effort to get that in there.
There's a 2011 Silverado 3500 HD here now with the GM black plastic coated lines. They're all shot. No pre-bent kits available for it.
Stainless steel is the way to go with a kit. Replacing one line - copper/nickel is also good.
Great video! I have to do brake lines on my 08 GMC duramax. This video will be a great help