its only as accurate as your calipers. My point is you have a 5k dollar saw 100 bucks on the fence measuring device, buy a set of sturret callappers. Or if you want to get real close buy a set of mic's and joe blocks to calibrate them with! Now from a Machinist don't pinch close the calibers use the thumb wheel to close them and make sure the contact area is clean after you open them metal and wood chips stick to them and will give you a bad reading. But keep in mind calipers are a rough unit of measure. Pinching the claws close will blow the measurement. I know a lot of guys do it but its wrong.
The difference here is that I’m working with wood and not metal. To expect 10,000th accuracy from a table saw is insane. The flex in a blade, even a full kerf is probably more than that. A $100 digital readout that gets you to a thousandth of measurement is far better than a $10 piece of tape glued to a metal rail with a magnifying glass over it. I know machinists speak a different language when it comes to measuring but expecting that level of accuracy with a highly unstable material is crazy.
Since solid wood can seasonally move ~ 0.03" for a 6" wide board, there's no need for machinist level accuracy. A nice scale is more than adequate. For me a dro is woodworking is nice for quick set up, repeatability, and ease of calculations when making 45* bevels. Just subtract material thickness from the cut length. Coming from airline maintenance where tolerances were critical in components and engines, to woodworking where using fingertips for fine scale adjustments was enlightening. One of my favorite scales is a folding wooden one that belonged to my late father in law. That and a sharp pencil ate good enough for most projects. Have to admit that it was hard at first to not measure to 3, 4 digits.
I was going to write a comment about how he zeroed the calipers 😂😂 you want to zero it how you measure it. Use the thumb screw to pinch the jaws closed then zero it. When you measure your piece with the thumb screw it’ll be as close as your calipers allow. Myself as a machinist see people in my shop use them wrong all the time... mostly engineers. Great tutorial. About to purchase one for my sawstop
@@MSRWorkshop I get your working with wood, it moves but you want your parts as close as you can get them to start out and constantly the same sizes. The wind changes direction your wood will change its size, but they will all change togather. Your saws more accurate then you think If you let the blade do the work and don't force it in a cut then its going to be pretty dam close if its a decent blade type and brand. Turning force and speed will keep it stright. You should also glue everything up after its cut insted of the next day so ive read?? Havnt noticed this yet. Im just talking.
Mine is the same model and are not precise, I tested an tested and compare with other rulers and the deviation are always the same, the worst thing his that we cannot calibrate.
That’s strange because mine has been dead on, and it’s very easy to zero just by sliding it over to touch the blade locking it, you can also manually adjust the reading as well and save it to be a default. It might be worth contacting wixey and explaining your problem to them
@@MSRWorkshop I contacted Wixey and Mr. Wixey answered quickly, I understood everything he said! But after many tests my Wixey WR 700 has a accuracy advertised bigger than advertised (accuracy advertised is .39mm per 3 foot), one meter (3 foot) is the accuracy standard measure for all measuring instruments. Thanks for reply.
@@djvitornunes that’s still pretty darn good especially if it’s wood we’re talking about measuring. Moisture loss or gain can cause wood to swell more than .3mm. I suppose if your an engineer or building a space shuttle it’s a little hard to turn off the fact that you have to allow for error when working with products that aren’t stable at all times, always. I suppose it depends on your application in the end. For me it’s way more accurate and quick to use this then the ruler on my table saw fence.
@@MSRWorkshop As I said my Wixey WR 700 give more error than the accuracy annonced. After all this (repeated measurements and calibrations) my new (glued) metal ruler is dead on and the digital readout if necessary helps to divide one mm in ten. Thanks for your video and all your attention.
I've got a few questions. Now that you've had this for a while are you still impressed? Also I noticed that you directly bolted the track to the saw rather than using the supplied brackets as shown on the Infinity web site. Any reason for that? You modified the bracket to connect to the read out using the magnet. Was that necessary? I also have a Sawstop as well and wondering what is the easiest install method. Thanks for a great video BTW!
So the reason for the install direct to the rail is it gives it much cleaner and flush look. If you use the supplied hardware it hangs down a bit and doesn’t look as nice. The bracket for the readout was cut shorter because it comes in contact with the rail and was to long. Just cut about a 1/4 to 1/2 in off and test the fit. Also the side tab comes off as well. This actually is a quite simple install. A little more drilling is involved but the kit has all the screws needed as well as the drill bit for the self taping ones. And to a ayer the most important question, do I still like it? YES, it’s very convenient and super accurate. Last it’s nice to be able to zero it to any with of blade. I switched to a thin kerf rip from a full kerf and just slid it over hit “zero” and was back up and running. Otherwise you would have to reset your ruler, and that’s more of a pain. Hope this helps
@@MSRWorkshop I think the more direct bolt to the rail is better, your less apt to drop a chunk of wood on it and screw it up. its also more solid to the fence rails so you can't bend the brackets by mistake. because a 2x4 or whatever fell over and hit it at worst you'll damage it beyond repair. other option would be a incra fence system and this is about 1/5 that price.
The little magnetic one works great for adjusting the tilt of your saw. Just zero it out to the bed and then stick it to the side of the blade and adjust it until you get the bevel that you want.
I like your flush install. Was hard to judge in the video, but does the track stick out past the original sawstop rail at all? Or is it perfectly flush to it?
@@MSRWorkshop thanks for the reply. In my case it’s a storage issue as I slot my sawstop into a very width limited space for storage. 1/4 might still work. Thanks
its only as accurate as your calipers. My point is you have a 5k dollar saw 100 bucks on the fence measuring device, buy a set of sturret callappers. Or if you want to get real close buy a set of mic's and joe blocks to calibrate them with!
Now from a Machinist don't pinch close the calibers use the thumb wheel to close them and make sure the contact area is clean after you open them metal and wood chips stick to them and will give you a bad reading. But keep in mind calipers are a rough unit of measure. Pinching the claws close will blow the measurement. I know a lot of guys do it but its wrong.
The difference here is that I’m working with wood and not metal. To expect 10,000th accuracy from a table saw is insane. The flex in a blade, even a full kerf is probably more than that. A $100 digital readout that gets you to a thousandth of measurement is far better than a $10 piece of tape glued to a metal rail with a magnifying glass over it.
I know machinists speak a different language when it comes to measuring but expecting that level of accuracy with a highly unstable material is crazy.
Since solid wood can seasonally move ~ 0.03" for a 6" wide board, there's no need for machinist level accuracy. A nice scale is more than adequate. For me a dro is woodworking is nice for quick set up, repeatability, and ease of calculations when making 45* bevels. Just subtract material thickness from the cut length. Coming from airline maintenance where tolerances were critical in components and engines, to woodworking where using fingertips for fine scale adjustments was enlightening. One of my favorite scales is a folding wooden one that belonged to my late father in law. That and a sharp pencil ate good enough for most projects. Have to admit that it was hard at first to not measure to 3, 4 digits.
I was going to write a comment about how he zeroed the calipers 😂😂 you want to zero it how you measure it. Use the thumb screw to pinch the jaws closed then zero it. When you measure your piece with the thumb screw it’ll be as close as your calipers allow. Myself as a machinist see people in my shop use them wrong all the time... mostly engineers. Great tutorial. About to purchase one for my sawstop
@@MSRWorkshop
I get your working with wood, it moves but you want your parts as close as you can get them to start out and constantly the same sizes. The wind changes direction your wood will change its size, but they will all change togather.
Your saws more accurate then you think
If you let the blade do the work and don't force it in a cut then its going to be pretty dam close if its a decent blade type and brand. Turning force and speed will keep it stright. You should also glue everything up after its cut insted of the next day so ive read?? Havnt noticed this yet. Im just talking.
Mine is the same model and are not precise, I tested an tested and compare with other rulers and the deviation are always the same, the worst thing his that we cannot calibrate.
That’s strange because mine has been dead on, and it’s very easy to zero just by sliding it over to touch the blade locking it, you can also manually adjust the reading as well and save it to be a default. It might be worth contacting wixey and explaining your problem to them
@@MSRWorkshop I contacted Wixey and Mr. Wixey answered quickly, I understood everything he said! But after many tests my Wixey WR 700 has a accuracy advertised bigger than advertised (accuracy advertised is .39mm per 3 foot), one meter (3 foot) is the accuracy standard measure for all measuring instruments.
Thanks for reply.
@@djvitornunes that’s still pretty darn good especially if it’s wood we’re talking about measuring. Moisture loss or gain can cause wood to swell more than .3mm.
I suppose if your an engineer or building a space shuttle it’s a little hard to turn off the fact that you have to allow for error when working with products that aren’t stable at all times, always. I suppose it depends on your application in the end. For me it’s way more accurate and quick to use this then the ruler on my table saw fence.
@@MSRWorkshop As I said my Wixey WR 700 give more error than the accuracy annonced. After all this (repeated measurements and calibrations) my new (glued) metal ruler is dead on and the digital readout if necessary helps to divide one mm in ten.
Thanks for your video and all your attention.
I've got a few questions. Now that you've had this for a while are you still impressed? Also I noticed that you directly bolted the track to the saw rather than using the supplied brackets as shown on the Infinity web site. Any reason for that? You modified the bracket to connect to the read out using the magnet. Was that necessary?
I also have a Sawstop as well and wondering what is the easiest install method.
Thanks for a great video BTW!
So the reason for the install direct to the rail is it gives it much cleaner and flush look. If you use the supplied hardware it hangs down a bit and doesn’t look as nice. The bracket for the readout was cut shorter because it comes in contact with the rail and was to long. Just cut about a 1/4 to 1/2 in off and test the fit. Also the side tab comes off as well. This actually is a quite simple install.
A little more drilling is involved but the kit has all the screws needed as well as the drill bit for the self taping ones.
And to a ayer the most important question, do I still like it? YES, it’s very convenient and super accurate. Last it’s nice to be able to zero it to any with of blade. I switched to a thin kerf rip from a full kerf and just slid it over hit “zero” and was back up and running. Otherwise you would have to reset your ruler, and that’s more of a pain.
Hope this helps
@@MSRWorkshop Helped a lot. Thanks!
@@MSRWorkshop I think the more direct bolt to the rail is better, your less apt to drop a chunk of wood on it and screw it up. its also more solid to the fence rails so you can't bend the brackets by mistake.
because a 2x4 or whatever fell over and hit it at worst you'll damage it beyond repair.
other option would be a incra fence system and this is about 1/5 that price.
Any thoughts of installing one of these on a miter saw?
The little magnetic one works great for adjusting the tilt of your saw. Just zero it out to the bed and then stick it to the side of the blade and adjust it until you get the bevel that you want.
M1 Caliber by REEKON
I like your flush install. Was hard to judge in the video, but does the track stick out past the original sawstop rail at all? Or is it perfectly flush to it?
It’s not entirely flush but it’s as close as it can get. I think it sticks out about a quarter of an inch but it’s not noticeable at all.
@@MSRWorkshop thanks for the reply. In my case it’s a storage issue as I slot my sawstop into a very width limited space for storage. 1/4 might still work. Thanks