I was so mad at this guy for taking that center hub nut off of this car!!! It took me forever trying to find the right socket and a replacement nut, just to find out that they weren’t needed. Then to find out that people had already made comments about it in the comments section. It’s frustrating when people post inaccurate information.
You were so mad?...wow...sucks to be you...but that's the price you pay to be a RUclips mechanic....cause anyone can make a video...even if they don't know wtf they are doing....lol
OK, a bunch of comments here.. you should clean the backing plate with brake clean to get rid of brake dust and rust. Second, before installing the new shoes you should actually use high temperature grease on the contact points on the backing plate. The retaining springs hold the shoes against the plate and you don't want friction between the shoe and the backing plate. Next, before you put the disc on, you should have adjusted out the adjuster. You should adjust out the adjuster until the disc starts to rub, then back it off slightly. Otherwise, you're beginning with your new parking brake out of adjustment. You should also have explained how to adjust those adjusters. There should be a hold in the backing plate which allows you to adjust them even with the disc on. One more thing- you should use the correct tool to install the retainer springs (Mercedes brake spring tool) and the correct tool for the two larger springs (not a screwdriver). There was no need to remove the axle nut. The only reason to do that is if you needed a new backing plate, and as others have posted, there is a way to do the backing plate without removing the wheel bearings.
And how about backing off the adjuster BEFORE removing the disc so there's no need to use a rubber hammer? Plus the caliper bolts are loctited so the penetrating oil serves no purpose and merely risks contaminating the disc pads/brake shoes. Scary lack of knowledge - you wouldn't repair MY auto!
I'm not sure why you took off the center nut for the Hub when you didn't remove the Hub you only removed the rotor and then the brake parts behind the Hub
There was no need at all to take that hub nut off .and I'd remove the caliper and braket before tackling or removing the disk bolt if there's no frezzing you'd run the risk of damaging the disk
The black socket is NOT hardened steel!!!!! Impact sockets are NEVER HARDENED steel! That is so that the socket doesnt explode. Taking the center nut is TOTALY unnecessary. But when you replaced it, you never torqued the nut!!! It has a very high torque setting. In all, I would not let you work on my Mercedes
You installed the brake shoe ratchet screw adjuster backwards. The dark screw head should point forwards and the silver color end backwards. This is true for the right or left side of the car so that flipping the star nut up or down does the same action (expand or contract) the brake shoes regardless of the side of the car you are working on.
I know we go back and forth brother. FYI: I was a brake caliper remanufacture for 25 years. Sold biz. Went into gold biz 2004-2009 for gold rush. Sold biz! Now I do a Benz, Porsche, Ferrari, or similar car occasionally. Using Airless shot blaster for calipers, I rebuild calipers. The small self contained airless shot blaster is 16k. Big one 35k! I powder coat calipers their choice of colors. I buff and polish wheels, or triple plate re chrome wheels if needed...or powder coat wheels. Same machine will blast the wheels like new 2 at a time in 10 min by pushing 3 buttons. My customers... I choose. Precision my dude. I go to the extreme. No hurry. My customers have a dozen cars. All of them look real nice thru them wheels too! From the Ultra rich to the... they got a lot of money customers ... they want a pro that places covers on steering wheels, seats, floors. And does a job that they can feature in pictures they turn into posters. The area I guess dictates the amount and caliber of customer u get!! Being on cape cod we have more than a few car guys that demand the best job and service. Pick up car, drop it off detailed! No lights on. Anything I see wrong or doesn’t meet my expectations I take care of it. Sometimes they may want u to actually spend a few minutes showing them what and why!! Out of desire only! Then a check comes in the mail. Most times more than the bill I sent! Just on occasion....
I need to know on a 1999 Mercedes S430 AMG it's got this answer when I take off and I want to spin once the cash o tires on the time and just it grabs you won't spend it just grabs every time I stop and it puts your head all the way to the back of the seat but it won't let go just always grabbing I need to find out if anybody out there has literally found that sensor or what is it that you got to disconnect to be able to you stomp on it and you want to spend as far as you want he's got to be able to do it it's just catch it
Putting on rear emergency brake shoes: Not for the faint hearted - the springs are HELL to put on. I used a needle nose vicegrip pliers & eventually got that lower one on - any other good tips on stretching those springs? I mounted the shoes first as I got tired of wrestling with the springs with such little clearance around the hub -
what about the brake line? i was under the impression that the tension needed to be let go in order for the brake to set right and then retightened afterwards.
My shoes are totally rust to the rotor. I can’t take the rotor off to replace the shoes. So my question is how do I remove the cable so I can take the rotor off? Thanks in advance
Why do´nt you just admit a wrongdoing? There´s nothing wrong with doing wrong. Everybody does it. Try more honesty in your clips. Join the do it yourself movement where sharing without hiding behind false facades is key.
@@iRepairAutos Seriously? Removing the nut gave you "easier access" to absolutely nothing. It would be like removing the nut on your steering wheel to replace the airbag. One has nothing to do with the other. The right and truthful thing to say would have been "True. I thought I needed to remove it to get the rotor off, but now I see it was unnecessary".
I've watched several other videos on Mercedes parking brake replacement. while some of the comments here are not wrong, this is BY FAR the best video on the subject. thank you for taking your time to do what others seem to love to knock down.
I was watching this vid bc I need to address a F-up I did. When I pulled my disc off exposing the ebrake assembly, a silver V shaped clamp fell out from the bottom. Maybe your Mercedes didn't have this as part of the set up. I have a 2012 S550
The best way is to spray a solvent that loosens rust. Spray generously around the area that holds the rotor to the hub. I have used WD-40 rust penetrant. Let it work it's way in for 20 minutes. Then using a rubber mallet hit rotor such that it comes off the hub. Patience and elbow grease does it.
Don't hammer directly on the rotor. A rubber mallet may work for a standard rotor, but it won't do jack for a seriously rusted/frozen one. You will just be needlessly banging and bouncing your rubber mallet off the rotor for hours. The trick I have found to remove any stuck rotor is a three foot 2x4 and a hand held, 3 pound sledgehammer. Place one end of the 2x4 on the rotor edge, and then smack the other end of the 2x4 with the hammer...hard. You may have to hit it twice, but the full shock will travel down the 2x4 and break the rotor loose. The 2X4 also protects the rotor from direct impact damage, just in case it still wont come off and you need to drive it somewhere. But it WILL come off. Soak liberally in penetrant first of course.
I LIKE this video! Too bad most of the Commenters felt compelled to go WAY overboard about the center nut being removed. Why is it that putting someone else down is so satisfying & necessary to you? Especially since it only needed to be mentioned once, or maybe twice at the most. You couldn't stop yourself from jumping on the "hater" bandwagon? It would be diffsrent if, for the benefit of others, you respectfully pointed out that the step wasn't necessary unless going deeper than parking brake repair. At leastmthere were a few comments that were made in the spirit of being helpful. For the haters . . . What good could possibly come from this type criticism? None Maybe ask yourself that next time, BEFORE you go off. If no good can come from it, you shouldn't be saying it. Putting someone down or hurting their feelings is NOT good.
With an assistant, park brake ON, foot brake ON and a long power bar. Add a length of scaffold pipe for extra length and leverage. I used a 3/4 drive bar and an impact socket.
Hey !!! Why have you deleted ALL THE THREE CRITICAL PARTS???? I can tell the brakedisk is sitting firmly at first and then there´s a jump cut RIGHT where you take your time to wonder why it´s sitting so hard. The lower spring and the two last springs don´t just fly in place I can tell you that and that´s where the other two editings are. What´s the point of doing "tutorials" if they are so edited all the critical moments are left out. I just had to drive home without the last two springs installed because they are FUCKERZ and I have never seen anything like them. Next time make a tutorial about the difficult parts left out here and then I will press the like button. And yeah why you removed the axle nut? I think you should think things over and consider why you are making tutorials.
I was so mad at this guy for taking that center hub nut off of this car!!! It took me forever trying to find the right socket and a replacement nut, just to find out that they weren’t needed. Then to find out that people had already made comments about it in the comments section. It’s frustrating when people post inaccurate information.
You were so mad?...wow...sucks to be you...but that's the price you pay to be a RUclips mechanic....cause anyone can make a video...even if they don't know wtf they are doing....lol
😅😅
Could of watched the video
😀😃😄😁
OK, a bunch of comments here.. you should clean the backing plate with brake clean to get rid of brake dust and rust. Second, before installing the new shoes you should actually use high temperature grease on the contact points on the backing plate. The retaining springs hold the shoes against the plate and you don't want friction between the shoe and the backing plate. Next, before you put the disc on, you should have adjusted out the adjuster. You should adjust out the adjuster until the disc starts to rub, then back it off slightly. Otherwise, you're beginning with your new parking brake out of adjustment. You should also have explained how to adjust those adjusters. There should be a hold in the backing plate which allows you to adjust them even with the disc on.
One more thing- you should use the correct tool to install the retainer springs (Mercedes brake spring tool) and the correct tool for the two larger springs (not a screwdriver). There was no need to remove the axle nut. The only reason to do that is if you needed a new backing plate, and as others have posted, there is a way to do the backing plate without removing the wheel bearings.
And how about backing off the adjuster BEFORE removing the disc so there's no need to use a rubber hammer? Plus the caliper bolts are loctited so the penetrating oil serves no purpose and merely risks contaminating the disc pads/brake shoes. Scary lack of knowledge - you wouldn't repair MY auto!
He do not show how to instal lower spring . lower spring is very hard to instal.
atomicdoug cvut the plate to centre through the 2 nuts then twist into place. bolt on then spot weld the cut. saves 200 in bearings
I'm not sure why you took off the center nut for the Hub when you didn't remove the Hub you only removed the rotor and then the brake parts behind the Hub
He removed the hub nut for another video which reviewed several different 30mm sockets.
where is this video?@@tempest411
😂😂
I thought the exact same thing
@@stephenablett3080 so did i lol.... thats only if you were taking the half-shaft out
There was no need at all to take that hub nut off .and I'd remove the caliper and braket before tackling or removing the disk bolt if there's no frezzing you'd run the risk of damaging the disk
The black socket is NOT hardened steel!!!!! Impact sockets are NEVER HARDENED steel! That is so that the socket doesnt explode. Taking the center nut is TOTALY unnecessary. But when you replaced it, you never torqued the nut!!! It has a very high torque setting. In all, I would not let you work on my Mercedes
You should have shown how to put on the retaining Spring
And the lower spring too. At first it was installed but when he tried the top one the lower escaped and its a pain in the ass to install it at last...
It's a good idea to fit new bolts on the caliper mountings and don't forget to torque them to the correct value!
You installed the brake shoe ratchet screw adjuster backwards. The dark screw head should point forwards and the silver color end backwards. This is true for the right or left side of the car so that flipping the star nut up or down does the same action (expand or contract) the brake shoes regardless of the side of the car you are working on.
Actually... Mercs has one towards the front and the other towards the rear.... ;-)
I know we go back and forth brother. FYI: I was a brake caliper remanufacture for 25 years. Sold biz. Went into gold biz 2004-2009 for gold rush. Sold biz! Now I do a Benz, Porsche, Ferrari, or similar car occasionally. Using Airless shot blaster for calipers, I rebuild calipers. The small self contained airless shot blaster is 16k. Big one 35k! I powder coat calipers their choice of colors. I buff and polish wheels, or triple plate re chrome wheels if needed...or powder coat wheels. Same machine will blast the wheels like new 2 at a time in 10 min by pushing 3 buttons. My customers... I choose. Precision my dude. I go to the extreme. No hurry. My customers have a dozen cars. All of them look real nice thru them wheels too! From the Ultra rich to the... they got a lot of money customers ... they want a pro that places covers on steering wheels, seats, floors. And does a job that they can feature in pictures they turn into posters. The area I guess dictates the amount and caliber of customer u get!! Being on cape cod we have more than a few car guys that demand the best job and service. Pick up car, drop it off detailed! No lights on. Anything I see wrong or doesn’t meet my expectations I take care of it. Sometimes they may want u to actually spend a few minutes showing them what and why!! Out of desire only! Then a check comes in the mail. Most times more than the bill I sent! Just on occasion....
Nice. Would love to come down and check out your operation. I'm in Massachusetts. Let me know.
When i saw duralast brake shoes i knew this was going to be good
I need to know on a 1999 Mercedes S430 AMG it's got this answer when I take off and I want to spin once the cash o tires on the time and just it grabs you won't spend it just grabs every time I stop and it puts your head all the way to the back of the seat but it won't let go just always grabbing I need to find out if anybody out there has literally found that sensor or what is it that you got to disconnect to be able to you stomp on it and you want to spend as far as you want he's got to be able to do it it's just catch it
WUT?
@@rauliglesias1566 Here. Just throw these in anywhere: ,,..,.!?;:;
@@3Hwrecking hahahahaha!!!
🤔Why did you remove the hub nut? 🙄
U were supposed to pull out the handbrake cable out and loosen and lubricate it as those tend to rust up
Putting on rear emergency brake shoes: Not for the faint hearted - the springs are HELL to put on. I used a needle nose vicegrip pliers & eventually got that lower one on - any other good tips on stretching those springs? I mounted the shoes first as I got tired of wrestling with the springs with such little clearance around the hub -
Why take off the axel nut???
great man-nice/thanks much
what about the brake line? i was under the impression that the tension needed to be let go in order for the brake to set right and then retightened afterwards.
I hope you took it apart again and put the top spring right again...It is supposed to come from the outside and not from the back....
Oh my gosh.....
Why did you take the hub nut off for absolutely no reason.
Dude, WTF are doing removing the axle nut??? You never removed the hub???
See the description. I removed the axel-nut for another video I was making.
You said you needed to remove it for more room.... I like the edit....
My shoes are totally rust to the rotor. I can’t take the rotor off to replace the shoes. So my question is how do I remove the cable so I can take the rotor off? Thanks in advance
Is it adjust system on tha handbrake?
This is a great video thank you.
You did not need to remove the CV axle Nut
Will this be the cause of my car making a noise every time my wheel spins in the same spot a noise appears at low speed
What brand of bakes do recommend other then Mercedes
Why did you touch the wheel hub nut?
Why did you remove the middle hub nut ???
I wanted/needed more access to do the job. You can do this job without removing the hub but it's more of a pain.
of course thanks
But the hub wasn't removed in the video, just the rotor...
what do you do with the cable sticking out
Cut it off!
How many Parking Brake Shoes does a car have?
Two in the rear. Each one of these two has two halves
@@iRepairAutos Thanks budd!
There is no need to remove the hub nut to change the brake shoes
True.. I removed it for easier access.
Why do´nt you just admit a wrongdoing? There´s nothing wrong with doing wrong. Everybody does it. Try more honesty in your clips. Join the do it yourself movement where sharing without hiding behind false facades is key.
@@iRepairAutos Seriously? Removing the nut gave you "easier access" to absolutely nothing. It would be like removing the nut on your steering wheel to replace the airbag. One has nothing to do with the other. The right and truthful thing to say would have been "True. I thought I needed to remove it to get the rotor off, but now I see it was unnecessary".
Are you sure you are not going scrambling? got the right gloves on!
It's a German car and you said there's Nazi's on it at 6:36!
I've watched several other videos on Mercedes parking brake replacement. while some of the comments here are not wrong, this is BY FAR the best video on the subject. thank you for taking your time to do what others seem to love to knock down.
this is the worse video, it is completely out of order those steps...
@@LFANS2001where's your video. It definitely assumes you aren't a sally.
Was not necessary to take of the hub screw , as you didn’t change the bearings
you are right that is stupid
I use needle nose pliers for the pain in ass spring
You do NoT need to remove the axel nut.. it is wrong.
How many of this parking brake does a car get?
Maybe one to Two times or as needed
Thank you
I was watching this vid bc I need to address a F-up I did. When I pulled my disc off exposing the ebrake assembly, a silver V shaped clamp fell out from the bottom. Maybe your Mercedes didn't have this as part of the set up.
I have a 2012 S550
What size is the crip on hub nut?
whats the best way to unseized the rotor? my shit wouldn't come off if my life depended on it :(
The best way is to spray a solvent that loosens rust. Spray generously around the area that holds the rotor to the hub. I have used WD-40 rust penetrant. Let it work it's way in for 20 minutes. Then using a rubber mallet hit rotor such that it comes off the hub. Patience and elbow grease does it.
Use a bigger hammer 😛
Heat it up around bolts holes after u use pb blaster then tap it off
Don't hammer directly on the rotor. A rubber mallet may work for a standard rotor, but it won't do jack for a seriously rusted/frozen one. You will just be needlessly banging and bouncing your rubber mallet off the rotor for hours.
The trick I have found to remove any stuck rotor is a three foot 2x4 and a hand held, 3 pound sledgehammer. Place one end of the 2x4 on the rotor edge, and then smack the other end of the 2x4 with the hammer...hard. You may have to hit it twice, but the full shock will travel down the 2x4 and break the rotor loose. The 2X4 also protects the rotor from direct impact damage, just in case it still wont come off and you need to drive it somewhere. But it WILL come off. Soak liberally in penetrant first of course.
i dont know what the reason was to take the 30mm nut off
Nice Shoes!
I LIKE this video! Too bad most of the Commenters felt compelled to go WAY overboard about the center nut being removed.
Why is it that putting someone else down is so satisfying & necessary to you?
Especially since it only needed to be mentioned once, or maybe twice at the most. You couldn't stop yourself from jumping on the "hater" bandwagon?
It would be diffsrent if, for the benefit of others, you respectfully pointed out that the step wasn't necessary unless going deeper than parking brake repair.
At leastmthere were a few comments that were made in the spirit of being helpful.
For the haters . . .
What good could possibly come from this type criticism? None
Maybe ask yourself that next time, BEFORE you go off. If no good can come from it, you shouldn't be saying it.
Putting someone down or hurting their feelings is NOT good.
Why did you remove the nut in the middle, you don’t remove that for this job
Why on earth did you remove the axle nut??
My axle nut is so hard to remove. Can you tell me a trick? Thank you.
With an assistant, park brake ON, foot brake ON and a long power bar. Add a length of scaffold pipe for extra length and leverage. I used a 3/4 drive bar and an impact socket.
Just do it first before removing the wheel !
Car on the ground , park brake on, no assistant need... easy!
Why take off centre drive shaft nut. Does not need to come off
Can you show me how to insert the Parking Brake Lever Toggle Kit? I removed it by mistake and don't know how to put it back right. Thank you.
No he can´t
You didn't have to take off the nut on the hub shaft..
А зачем гайку ступицы откручивал?
great vid, what are the torque specs for the caliper bolts? thankyou
Pull a harder than a bolt in an aluminium engine block but less than a wheel bolt.
Hey !!! Why have you deleted ALL THE THREE CRITICAL PARTS???? I can tell the brakedisk is sitting firmly at first and then there´s a jump cut RIGHT where you take your time to wonder why it´s sitting so hard. The lower spring and the two last springs don´t just fly in place I can tell you that and that´s where the other two editings are. What´s the point of doing "tutorials" if they are so edited all the critical moments are left out. I just had to drive home without the last two springs installed because they are FUCKERZ and I have never seen anything like them. Next time make a tutorial about the difficult parts left out here and then I will press the like button. And yeah why you removed the axle nut? I think you should think things over and consider why you are making tutorials.
I hear you. You can make the better video I guess.
@matt alan LMAO
Oh come on guys... lol.. No seriously. I'll try to be better. Thanks for the feedback. 😎
Start take off the hub..you wrong should be the brake rotor/ drum not hub..
There was no need to remove centre hub nut dude!!
"Axle nut was removed for another video that I also made. The axle nut is not to be removed for this job." Riiiiiiiiiiiiiiight..... LMAO Nice try.
U don't need 2 remove the axel nut and u don't really show the way spring has 2 go .. thanks anyway
great video
Guess you haven´t tried to follow it..
that was really bad teaching ,try making the video again
Funniest shit ive ever heard pounds per square inch its a torque speck so it 20 foot pounds
good video, unnecessary removal of axle nut...
Super 👍
u gut work you can not work
Lol stop playing with cars you dont know wtf you doing
Lol... you're probably right. ruclips.net/video/ITzMsmBg4oY/видео.html
Bad guide
hahahaha