Once again thank you for a wonderful video on using you sliding to build your cabinets. It once again shows how the sliding table is so much better than a regular table saw. I have a add on sliding table on my table saw that I love does not compair with a regular sliding table saw. Thanks again, Bob
What dust collector are you using? It seems to work really well. I have the same saw and my dust collector works pretty well, but maybe not as well as yours
Thanks for writing. It's a Felder AF22 with a 4hp motor. I'm running a 200mm main trunk before it drops down to 125mm to the saw body and 50mm to the saw guard. The hard plumbed pipe is steel Lindab Transfer. I hope that helps.
Did I understand correctly that it would be difficult to rip long (2500mm) and narrow (150mm) board in half with the rip fence? Or it may be done as with a usual cabinet saw?
If you use the slider for an initial straight rip you are limited to the slider length unless you have a jig that slides in the slider groove to extend the capacity. Rip cuts made with the rip fence have no length limitation beyond that of your shop space or ability to support the piece of wood. You can certainly rip narrow pieces with either the rip fence or the slider. With the slider narrow pieces that are rip cut need help from a fritz and franz style jig to safely hold them. When rip cutting with the rip fence it is important to note that the table and slider are not coplaner. I like to rip within 8mm or less first and then perform a final pass to exact size afterwards...that way the last rip cut will rest completely on the table and not touch the slider.
Definitely should add another flip stop to your cross cut fence, if your saw has scoring capability you should give it a try. My K500 had scoring and initially I didn't use it but now I don't cut sheet goods without it.
Thanks for the nod of encouragement with the flip stop. I do have a scoring blade and was impressed with the result but I haven't been using it with the cabinet carcasses in the workshop. I will have a walk in closet build later this year to use it on. What do you think of the K500?
Hey, thanks for the K3 videos. It was good to see how it works making a batch of cuts. Ive been missing that in other videos. I Think I will get me one too. Do you think that it would be possible to lift up the working height of the machine? I am quite tall and all of my shop tables and benches are set to 96mm. Greetings from Berlin
Hi Robert. You can definitely raise it up. I have raised mine by adding adjustable height machine feet. I bought mine from schwaderer. Here is a link to the style I chose. If I remember correctly they are 80 dia 10x100. www.schwaderer.com/products/maschinenfuss-stellfuss-sfel80-zur-bodenbefestigung Order extra nuts and some large fender washers to spead the load. My feet are locked in position with nuts under and over. They are very stable and easy to adjust.
@@builtfixed6611 thanks for your quick answer. I will go to the Felder outlet tomorrow to put my hands on the k3. I hope they will deliver it before Christmas.
@@builtfixed6611 I have placed the order for the k3 winner comfort today and ive added another stop Block according to your Video. Current delivery date is in Februar. So I have plenty time for watching some k3 projects. Cheers
@@builtfixed6611 I will keep you up to date :). I have added the delivery and calibration Service which was only 395 euros. I will also get a presentation of the machine and get to know some Tips and Tricks which will be nice. I havent set up the dust collection yet. Currently I am using two Shop vacs and cyclone. I have to Check my work space Dimension for the Felder System. If that is too large, I will go for a record power barrel cyclone. I also have to get a new Power supply for the big machines. I could Post some pictures on instagram or Facebook if you are interested.
Hi. Do you also post on the Felder Owner’s Group, too? I really want to buy a Felder X roll slider, but given that I am just a hobbyist, a Hammer would probably be more that sufficient for my needs. I do like the looks and performance of your Hammer Winner.
I'm not on that forum. Do you have a link? I can see jumping to the Felder line if you want more gadgets like their power drive units and greater refinement. How much room do you have for a saw? The 2m is nice but if I had the room I would have liked to have had the ability to rip on the slider a full sheet of ply. wish wish wish
@@builtfixed6611 The forum is at groups.io/g/felderownersgroup. They share the same initials as my other favorite group -- the Festool Owners' Group. Lots of good info in both camps. I am thinking of something close to a 3m slider in either the Felder 700 series or even better, their Format4 Kappa. I am also looking at the Altendorf, SCM, and Martin. I want to process sheet goods into cabinet stock without having to use my Festool TS 55 or 75 all the time. As for space, I currently have one 30' x 50' multi-purpose storage shed-workshop-garage, but it's currently a bit overcrowded so I want to put up another at least as large. I have plenty of acerage so space should not be the problem a lot of folks have. My chief complaint for my current shed is there are too many "too's": -- too crowded, too hot in summer, too cold in winter, and too much humidity, especially here in North Carolina. It's practically a full time job just working on rust control for anything made with cast ironl. I feel like I'm the woodworking equivalent of a bartender constantly polishing the glasses and wiping down the bar.
@@WelshRabbit After I began running a dehumidifier I haven`t had a single issue with rust; that is a much easier way to keep metal shiny. Check out my video about the system handwheel tilt gauge. In the comment section there is an individual that is in the process of receiving his 940. Maybe you should try and connect with him.
@@builtfixed6611 Yes, I definitely need to get a dehumidifier, but first I need to do more for air infiltration control, too. I originally built it as a barn with two 10' x 10' lateral rolling barn doors. Even closed, there are huge air gaps all around both doors. On my next building, I'm going to be a bit more particular in my choice of doors and windows. By the way, where are you located? In the states or in Canada? Or really abroad?
When cutting the sidepanels, you can better first cut in the length direction. The cut after that will be more accurate for 90 degrees having the long edge against the fence.
![BRASIL vs. PERÚ [4-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 10](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tbyOJKXfQnI/mqdefault.jpg)
Awesome saw. I have the Felder 700s coming in December. Can't wait. Nice work on the cabinets
Sweet saw. Congrats! I'm the sure you'll find the wait was worth it.
Once again thank you for a wonderful video on using you sliding to build your cabinets. It once again shows how the sliding table is so much better than a regular table saw. I have a add on sliding table on my table saw that I love does not compair with a regular sliding table saw. Thanks again, Bob
Looks great!
thanks!
What dust collector are you using? It seems to work really well. I have the same saw and my dust collector works pretty well, but maybe not as well as yours
Thanks for writing. It's a Felder AF22 with a 4hp motor. I'm running a 200mm main trunk before it drops down to 125mm to the saw body and 50mm to the saw guard. The hard plumbed pipe is steel Lindab Transfer. I hope that helps.
Did I understand correctly that it would be difficult to rip long (2500mm) and narrow (150mm) board in half with the rip fence? Or it may be done as with a usual cabinet saw?
If you use the slider for an initial straight rip you are limited to the slider length unless you have a jig that slides in the slider groove to extend the capacity. Rip cuts made with the rip fence have no length limitation beyond that of your shop space or ability to support the piece of wood. You can certainly rip narrow pieces with either the rip fence or the slider. With the slider narrow pieces that are rip cut need help from a fritz and franz style jig to safely hold them. When rip cutting with the rip fence it is important to note that the table and slider are not coplaner. I like to rip within 8mm or less first and then perform a final pass to exact size afterwards...that way the last rip cut will rest completely on the table and not touch the slider.
Definitely should add another flip stop to your cross cut fence, if your saw has scoring capability you should give it a try. My K500 had scoring and initially I didn't use it but now I don't cut sheet goods without it.
Thanks for the nod of encouragement with the flip stop. I do have a scoring blade and was impressed with the result but I haven't been using it with the cabinet carcasses in the workshop. I will have a walk in closet build later this year to use it on. What do you think of the K500?
Hey, thanks for the K3 videos. It was good to see how it works making a batch of cuts. Ive been missing that in other videos. I Think I will get me one too. Do you think that it would be possible to lift up the working height of the machine? I am quite tall and all of my shop tables and benches are set to 96mm. Greetings from Berlin
Hi Robert. You can definitely raise it up. I have raised mine by adding adjustable height machine feet. I bought mine from schwaderer. Here is a link to the style I chose. If I remember correctly they are 80 dia 10x100. www.schwaderer.com/products/maschinenfuss-stellfuss-sfel80-zur-bodenbefestigung Order extra nuts and some large fender washers to spead the load. My feet are locked in position with nuts under and over. They are very stable and easy to adjust.
@@builtfixed6611 thanks for your quick answer. I will go to the Felder outlet tomorrow to put my hands on the k3. I hope they will deliver it before Christmas.
@@builtfixed6611 I have placed the order for the k3 winner comfort today and ive added another stop Block according to your Video. Current delivery date is in Februar. So I have plenty time for watching some k3 projects. Cheers
@@robertkolbe3751 Awesome! I`d love to hear how your delivery and setup goes. Do you have a dust extraction setup already?
@@builtfixed6611 I will keep you up to date :). I have added the delivery and calibration Service which was only 395 euros. I will also get a presentation of the machine and get to know some Tips and Tricks which will be nice. I havent set up the dust collection yet. Currently I am using two Shop vacs and cyclone. I have to Check my work space Dimension for the Felder System. If that is too large, I will go for a record power barrel cyclone. I also have to get a new Power supply for the big machines. I could Post some pictures on instagram or Facebook if you are interested.
Hi. Do you also post on the Felder Owner’s Group, too? I really want to buy a Felder X roll slider, but given that I am just a hobbyist, a Hammer would probably be more that sufficient for my needs. I do like the looks and performance of your Hammer Winner.
I'm not on that forum. Do you have a link? I can see jumping to the Felder line if you want more gadgets like their power drive units and greater refinement. How much room do you have for a saw? The 2m is nice but if I had the room I would have liked to have had the ability to rip on the slider a full sheet of ply. wish wish wish
@@builtfixed6611 The forum is at groups.io/g/felderownersgroup. They share the same initials as my other favorite group -- the Festool Owners' Group. Lots of good info in both camps. I am thinking of something close to a 3m slider in either the Felder 700 series or even better, their Format4 Kappa. I am also looking at the Altendorf, SCM, and Martin. I want to process sheet goods into cabinet stock without having to use my Festool TS 55 or 75 all the time. As for space, I currently have one 30' x 50' multi-purpose storage shed-workshop-garage, but it's currently a bit overcrowded so I want to put up another at least as large. I have plenty of acerage so space should not be the problem a lot of folks have. My chief complaint for my current shed is there are too many "too's": -- too crowded, too hot in summer, too cold in winter, and too much humidity, especially here in North Carolina. It's practically a full time job just working on rust control for anything made with cast ironl. I feel like I'm the woodworking equivalent of a bartender constantly polishing the glasses and wiping down the bar.
@@WelshRabbit After I began running a dehumidifier I haven`t had a single issue with rust; that is a much easier way to keep metal shiny. Check out my video about the system handwheel tilt gauge. In the comment section there is an individual that is in the process of receiving his 940. Maybe you should try and connect with him.
@@WelshRabbit Thanks for the link.👍
@@builtfixed6611 Yes, I definitely need to get a dehumidifier, but first I need to do more for air infiltration control, too. I originally built it as a barn with two 10' x 10' lateral rolling barn doors. Even closed, there are huge air gaps all around both doors. On my next building, I'm going to be a bit more particular in my choice of doors and windows. By the way, where are you located? In the states or in Canada? Or really abroad?
When cutting the sidepanels, you can better first cut in the length direction. The cut after that will be more accurate for 90 degrees having the long edge against the fence.