JD does it again! Really appreciate your videos man! We went to redo the drum brakes and had a bunch of grease stuck in there. Turned out it was the seal just like yours. FYI, we have a one piece and the bearing cone points towards the differential. I can send you a picture if you're still interested.
Thanks Michael! If I understand how your bearing is oriented, it is the same way mine is with the tapered part of the bearing toward the differential. Good to hear. I think I can visualize it so no pic necessary but thanks for the offer and the feedback. JD
Yea I knew the shop did it wrong that's why it was hard for you to catch. I check many youtube videos on this subject and all but one got it wrong so easy to mess up. I ranged on all of them also. even a supplier of the bearing got it wrong also. SAD. looking forward to your update. Warren
Enjoyed this video, still have my amc20 solid axle upgrade sitting in the garage. Learned a lot from your video, didn’t realize that I would have to pull the brake lines,,, great video as usual! 🛠
Thank you Sir! Glad it helped. I had this done in anticipation of the 350, now that I've pulled the axle, it doesn't look like to bad of an upgrade to make yourself and looking back I should have done it myself. Helpful if you have a press (which I don't have).
Your axle bearings are in backwards! That's what wore the seals because the outer seal/retainer is holding against the bearing allowing slack. The backing plate should be against the thick side of the outer race/bearing cup. I've watched several videos on RUclips that have been wrong! You do great videos though and your not to blame for the. I would definitely talk to the mechanic who installed it backwards in the initial installation!!
His axle bearings are facing the correct direction as stated in the instructions for the one piece axle upgrade. They would face the other way if it was the OEM two piece axle. Two piece axles use a thrust block and shims on one side to set preload. The one piece axle was engineered to use a bearing spacer that is machined to the correct depth to set preload by pressing on the outer race. If the bearing cone was on the inside like you say then the spacer would be pushing the outer race away from inner cone.
@@stiglu y'all do it how you want to but I'm telling you that the larger lip of the inner race faces the axle splines and the larger lip of the outer race faces the backing plate! I've worked on plenty of these to know! And I've seen what happens when you put it in backwards!! So if want to keep replacing seals or worse, have your axle come out while driving down the road, do it how you want!
@@stiglu Yukon, ten factory, rugged ridge, crown automotive all say larger lip of inner race toward splines. Same as the factory axle. Except the one piece have a retainer ring instead of the shoulder to keep the bearing in place. Must have thrust block also
Thanks so much. I've got a solid AMC20 on my YJ. The seal finally gave way and it just throws fluid everywhere (on my inner wheel) as I drive... time for a replacement!
Jd I also used a slide hammer to take my seal out I’m sorry I’m the one that told you . That you did not have to take your shoes off to get your axes out on mine I just took off my emergency brake line loose and my axle just came right out don’t know know why yours would not . But it’s not really a bad job to put that brake assembly back together. I’ve got that same slide hammer trust me you will use it on that car it is a great tool .and that’s why I like to do my own work cause I know it’s going to be done right . On mine that race that fits in front of the seal in your axel I had to file it some it was a grunt to long when I put it all back together and got it all tightened the wheel was hard to turn my seal was back as far as it would go but that Shem in front of my seal for some reason was just a grunt to long but put it in my vice with a wide file and it worked perfect has been in a little over a year now . Great job jd that is a nice Jeep . I want to send you some pictures of my new project I’m working on now 1977 scrambler 60 Dana rear 44 Dena front Chevy 572 motor tremec six speed trans 300 Dana transfer case just got my motor yesterday I think I’m going to sell my cj to get this scrambler how I want it you know how much money it takes to put the best you can put in a build and this scrambler I found don’t have no rust at all I would love to send you some pictures when we get it done it should put out close to six hundred hp . Love your videos jd you are a good man please be safe
Hey Randy, you are correct I could have just taken off my emergency brake cable but I opted to take the shoes off mainly to clean all the gear oil off of them. That seal puller is amazing! I can't believe you have a Scrambler and that drivetrain sounds crazy!! Send me some pics of it at JD_Offline@yahoo.com. Thanks for the feedback and always chiming in!!
Hope you got the pics I sent. there for the one piece axle and its more specific on the bearing orientation. This diagram also shows the use of the bearing spacer. some diagrams highlight this in red and some diagrams don't really show the orientation at all and its a guess. Home this helps and sorry for all the confusion.
I'm getting ready to put in one piece axles (after 200K miles in my 84 Scrambler it started spinning in the middle of Canyonlands NP....not a great spot to break down LOL). You might look at the instructions for the axles you had installed. In the Yukon gear kit it looks like that "spacer" between the seal and the race is supposed to be filed such that the bearing sits out .030 to .080 inches from the axle. Seems like a really odd way to set a clearance, but that is what my instructions say. Did you check that dimension? Have you had any issues? Not sure how important this is.... Guess I will find out when mine arrive. Thanks for the video!!
Ok so #1 I'm jealous of your Scrambler so let me get that out of the way. Haha. I totally agree with you about the bearing clearance but hadn't had any issues with bearing clearance only the leaky axle seal. Now that we have replaced the seal I still have no issues with that seal or bearing etc. Had we installed that one piece axle kit (and I wish we had based on that seal) I would have set the clearance per the instructions. Hope the video helped and good luck with your Scrambler (still jealous). JD
@@MrAllegiant1 Yeah actually just got mine together finally. It seems ok so far but so far has only been down the street and back.... Got to go put some miles on it :)
Same bearing that I have in my hand rate now but my directions and I think yours do not mention outer bearing cup but refer to the inner race, the part that rides against the axle. it says hat the inner race thick part should face the inner splines of the axle. it even highlights it in red. So just saying and maybe I'm missing something. To me the outer race holds the bearing in the axle housing and the outer race is held in by the backing plate so bearing cant go anywhere. the bearing is forced against the bearing on the other axle and then you set your end play and all that fun stuff. So if the outer cup is installed first in the housing then the bearing what is retaining the bearing. the brake backing plate center hole is to bit and would ride on the cage of the bearing and the outer seal is not for thrust and cant retain the bearing for long. also this bearing 9 is Timken 778- 08 which is the same bearing as in the two piece axle. Ok just help me understand what is holding the bearing and axle from just coming out of the housing. it cant be the brake backing plate since. The out seal is just that a seal and seal retainer plate not meant to hold in the axle or bearing. do me a favor if you wilkeep
BarberChop my issue is my instructions are not specific enough and my diagram appears to show the narrow side of cone facing the splines but I have to agree with everything you said so thanks for convincing me this video has it backwards.
Jason, like you I installed the bearing exactly as it is pictured in the instructions after confirming with Moser's tech support that it is correct (the way I have it in the video). Barberchop and I have been going back and forth for a long time on this issue and I'm going to call Moser tech support again today to try to clarify. I'm not saying he's wrong but the instructions as well as Moser are saying he is. I'll update this thread after I talk to them.
Sorry got timeline wrong somehow. at 6;32 if you look at the bearing on the axle it is pointing the wrong way. The outer race should be there also and not able to stay in the housing. The bearing and race should be pushing the axle inward towards each other that's why there is a thrust button between the two axles. Get the diagram on line and you should see the concern. basically take it all apart and redo it right. Just trying to help before you loose your axles. did you check the link i sent. Take a look and think about it for a while.. why install bearings that push the axles outward.
Hey me again. at time line 16.02 you can see the bearing race is still inside the housing. If done right that would be impossible. the race is what holds the bearing inside the housing. the backing plate for the brakes is what holds the race in. The thick part of the race should be pointing to the outside. there should be shims on the drivers side between the housing and backing plate to determine end play . I recommend do not drive the vehicle. think about it there really isn't anything holding your axles in except for the cage around your bearing not the bearing race. look up on line the AMC 20 schematic. there is a thrust button inside the carrier to connect the to axles.
At 16:02 I'm closing out the video and the Jeep isn't in the frame. I'm not doubting what you are saying I just don't quite understand how they are installed wrong. JD
Amigo disculpa, una pregunta. La diferencial trasera original de Jeep Renegade es de eje flotante o fue modificada para suspender los ejes de guía o cuñerito? Gracias por su respuesta.
You say that the "seal retainer" has to be against the seal and the last guy had "poor craftsmanship" but when you put the retainer back in you have a space between the seal and retainer....look at 11:45.
I can't see what you are referring to but I can tell you that I have no more leak from the axle seal. The "last guy" is a longer story than just this video. I took my Jeep to a shop and had the gears changed and the transfer case rebuilt. The Jeep locked up about a mile from the shop due to the transfer case and a piece of metal left in the transfer case and causing the gears to lock up. This shop and mechanic also damaged the seals, used the old ones and/or didn't replace the axle seals and used what I believe to be the old pinion seals so now my pinions are leaking as well. Then there's the issue of how much time these repairs took (4 weeks vs the promised 2 weeks), and all the things he said he would do that he didn't do so the story is deeper than just this one video and I mention it throughout my Jeep build (70+ videos). Like I said I can't really see what you are saying at that time but now you know more of the whole story. After my experiences taking my CJ to shops, I started doing more things myself so now I only have myself to blame if something doesn't work. Check out my other videos on my Jeep build, Camaro build and Square Body build on my channel. With some mentoring from a buddy of mine, I have accomplished and learned a lot. Good luck with your channel. JD
@@JDOffline I'm referring to the gap between the seal and that machined ring. You talk about it at 7:05 -->. Isn't that "spacer" actually to set the bearing preload on the shaft?
I'm late to the party, but with the way this mechanic is leaving a trail of woe I hope someone went back and checked the backlash and contact pattern on the ring and pinion.
Hey John! Thank you for the comment but replacing an axle seal shouldn't have interfered with the ring and pinion contact pattern or backlash. If you know other wise please let me know, I've not had any problems since this repair. Thanks. JD
I hate doing this to you. Yea the guy that did your diff really didn't know what he was doing but you did what he did wrong. You installed the bearing and race in reverse just like the other guy did. The jeep 20 AMC 20 is a semi floating axle and has a thrust button between the axles and rely's on the shims on one axle only to get the end play. The thick part on the race should be towards the retainer (outside). think about it the retainer pushes against the race that holds the bearing in. the smaller part of the bearing points outward against the race. So what is actually holding your axles in place. Trust me I worked for AMC in the late 70' and 80's and have rebuilt many a diff. if you don't be leave me check out online the service manual for an AMC 20. and it doesn't matter if its one piece or two piece axles. Oh and since they are backwards your not actually using the internal thrust button. hope you havent lost your axles yet.
No worries about any feedback, I welcome it all. I'm not sure I follow you 100% though and will have to go back and watch the video again. All we did was replace the inner seal, we didn't change the bearings or race or anything like that so if it was installed wrong, it was done so by the shop. This was several years ago and i have had no issues with the axles. They are standing up to the v8 power just fine so far. Thanks for the feedback. Hopefully I don't have any issues. JD
Sorry guys I thought I was just trying to help. I know all about the spacer and removing the shims and grinding the spacer to get the proper end play. I have used them before. and do prefer the shims better. So yes its no longer a semi floating axle and just a independent bearing per side, Odd that being said. Because tapered bearings have to be used with another tapered bearing they cant be independent there tapered they have to be used with another tapered bearing. kind of defeats there purpose. This set up would only make sense with a non tapered roller bearing set up like on Ford diffs. With the roller bearing set up you would most likely need to remove the Thrust block. I would like to know the part number of the bearings you are using. I did go to the Moser One piece axle sight and read thru there info and there is a section saying the thick part of the inner race faces the axle splines. So on most bearings the thick inner race would be the fat end of the bearing and would have the bearing pointing toward the tire like on the two piece axle. So maybe you have a different type of bearing then I'm accustom too. I really would like to see what bearing your using. I'm not being a jerk. at least I hope not, Maybe I'm seeing thing wrong, after all I'm getting up there in age. and yes I have been wrong on occasions.
You're not being a jerk at all. The bearing is a Timken Set 9 bearing and the thick part of the race that points toward the axle splines can only cover the narrower side of the bearing since it is a tapered bearing. The thin side of the race has to point toward the tire. I show the bearing in the video. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. The Jeep is running great with the set up per Moser. JD
@@JDOffline I've seen the Moser directions and it never mentions anything about the OUTER RACE. It clearly says the LARGER LIP ON INNER RACE OF BEARING MUST FACE AXLE SPLINES! Surely you know the difference between an inner and outer race?? Tell ya what, pick up one of those bearings from your Camaro rear end and just look at the INNER RACE! One side of it is larger than the other! And Moser among all others clearly says the LARGER LIP OF THE INNER RACE OF BEARING MUST FACE AXLE SPLINES. I don't know what everyone else reads, but that's what I read
Shawn trust me I did but to no avail. It was better to cut my losses and fix what needed to be fixed myself. Thanks for the comment and for checking out the video. JD
I am doing a AMC 20 rate now for a 401 gremlin and will show you what I mean. but having the bearing lie you have its pushing the axles outward. you want the bearing were there pushing the axles inward against each other and the thrust button. that's what makes it a semi floating axle. sorry but it is a safety item. also does note matter if its one piece or two piece I've done both. I know I'm harpin on you but everyone on line is got it wrong except one guy and everyone is telling him he is doing it wrong. ill send you his link
I know you only did the seal but still the bearing are wrong and new seal will fail if not the hole rear end. check this link. AMC 20 Tear Down & Rebuild | Drum Brake How To | Jeep CJ5 Project, Pt9 at 12;30 he shows the proper way the bearing should be installed weather its a one piece or two piece axle. Oh I did make a comment that he reversed the brake shows.
BarberChop the bearing cone points towards the tire for two piece axles but it points toward the differential for one piece axles. It is clear in the instructions that come with the one piece kit. The one piece kit includes a bearing spacer inside the housing that is not there with two piece axles. The bearing spacer sets preload by pressing against the outer race. The bearing spacer is machined down to set the preload correctly.
Hey Jim, yeah when I picked up the Jeep the transfer case that he rebuilt locked up and left me on the side of the road. They had the Jeep towed and fixed that but that is why I never took it back to that shop to get the seals fixed. I found similar experiences at most local shops for some reason. Hope your Jeep is coming along!
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So Ive watched about 10 or 15 of these videos on this axle. This by far was the best of them……
Thank you for that!! Glad you enjoyed it and hope it was helpful. JD
From a complete and unbiased source this is by far your best video of all your videos. Ps. 69!!!
ohgoodbe Haha thank you sir! It was fun and it always seems to be a better video when you have some buddies over. Really appreciate the feedback.
Also curious to know what made it better in your opinion??
Umm...because I was in it! :D
It's also good to add a little sealant on the end of the axle housing for the brake backing plate! Nice job!
Thanks Jim, will do that next time! So far it is not leaking!
JD does it again! Really appreciate your videos man! We went to redo the drum brakes and had a bunch of grease stuck in there. Turned out it was the seal just like yours. FYI, we have a one piece and the bearing cone points towards the differential. I can send you a picture if you're still interested.
Thanks Michael! If I understand how your bearing is oriented, it is the same way mine is with the tapered part of the bearing toward the differential. Good to hear. I think I can visualize it so no pic necessary but thanks for the offer and the feedback. JD
Yea I knew the shop did it wrong that's why it was hard for you to catch. I check many youtube videos on this subject and all but one got it wrong so easy to mess up. I ranged on all of them also. even a supplier of the bearing got it wrong also. SAD. looking forward to your update. Warren
Thank you again for your insight. Going to try to get this done in the next week or two! JD
Enjoyed this video, still have my amc20 solid axle upgrade sitting in the garage. Learned a lot from your video, didn’t realize that I would have to pull the brake lines,,, great video as usual! 🛠
Thank you Sir! Glad it helped. I had this done in anticipation of the 350, now that I've pulled the axle, it doesn't look like to bad of an upgrade to make yourself and looking back I should have done it myself. Helpful if you have a press (which I don't have).
Your axle bearings are in backwards! That's what wore the seals because the outer seal/retainer is holding against the bearing allowing slack. The backing plate should be against the thick side of the outer race/bearing cup. I've watched several videos on RUclips that have been wrong! You do great videos though and your not to blame for the. I would definitely talk to the mechanic who installed it backwards in the initial installation!!
Not sure I'm following you....not questioning what you are saying just don't understand how they are backwards? JD
His axle bearings are facing the correct direction as stated in the instructions for the one piece axle upgrade. They would face the other way if it was the OEM two piece axle. Two piece axles use a thrust block and shims on one side to set preload. The one piece axle was engineered to use a bearing spacer that is machined to the correct depth to set preload by pressing on the outer race. If the bearing cone was on the inside like you say then the spacer would be pushing the outer race away from inner cone.
@@stiglu y'all do it how you want to but I'm telling you that the larger lip of the inner race faces the axle splines and the larger lip of the outer race faces the backing plate! I've worked on plenty of these to know! And I've seen what happens when you put it in backwards!! So if want to keep replacing seals or worse, have your axle come out while driving down the road, do it how you want!
Ok, my issue is the diagram and wording on my instructions are not clear enough. I've decided to install like you say for the reasons you pointed out.
@@stiglu Yukon, ten factory, rugged ridge, crown automotive all say larger lip of inner race toward splines. Same as the factory axle. Except the one piece have a retainer ring instead of the shoulder to keep the bearing in place. Must have thrust block also
Thanks so much. I've got a solid AMC20 on my YJ. The seal finally gave way and it just throws fluid everywhere (on my inner wheel) as I drive... time for a replacement!
Yeah that's what mine was doing and this certainly fixed it. I hope this video helps and thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the puller recommendation!
I've used it quite a bit and it works well. Worth the $$ in my opinion. Glad it helped. JD
Jd I also used a slide hammer to take my seal out I’m sorry I’m the one that told you . That you did not have to take your shoes off to get your axes out on mine I just took off my emergency brake line loose and my axle just came right out don’t know know why yours would not . But it’s not really a bad job to put that brake assembly back together. I’ve got that same slide hammer trust me you will use it on that car it is a great tool .and that’s why I like to do my own work cause I know it’s going to be done right . On mine that race that fits in front of the seal in your axel I had to file it some it was a grunt to long when I put it all back together and got it all tightened the wheel was hard to turn my seal was back as far as it would go but that Shem in front of my seal for some reason was just a grunt to long but put it in my vice with a wide file and it worked perfect has been in a little over a year now . Great job jd that is a nice Jeep . I want to send you some pictures of my new project I’m working on now 1977 scrambler 60 Dana rear 44 Dena front Chevy 572 motor tremec six speed trans 300 Dana transfer case just got my motor yesterday I think I’m going to sell my cj to get this scrambler how I want it you know how much money it takes to put the best you can put in a build and this scrambler I found don’t have no rust at all I would love to send you some pictures when we get it done it should put out close to six hundred hp . Love your videos jd you are a good man please be safe
Hey Randy, you are correct I could have just taken off my emergency brake cable but I opted to take the shoes off mainly to clean all the gear oil off of them. That seal puller is amazing! I can't believe you have a Scrambler and that drivetrain sounds crazy!! Send me some pics of it at JD_Offline@yahoo.com. Thanks for the feedback and always chiming in!!
Hope you got the pics I sent. there for the one piece axle and its more specific on the bearing orientation. This diagram also shows the use of the bearing spacer. some diagrams highlight this in red and some diagrams don't really show the orientation at all and its a guess. Home this helps and sorry for all the confusion.
The diagram on the Moser instructions show the bearing exactly as I have it installed. I'm going to call them again today to try to clarify. JD
Lifesaver, brother, thanks a mil!! Big help!
Glad it helped! JD
I'm getting ready to put in one piece axles (after 200K miles in my 84 Scrambler it started spinning in the middle of Canyonlands NP....not a great spot to break down LOL). You might look at the instructions for the axles you had installed. In the Yukon gear kit it looks like that "spacer" between the seal and the race is supposed to be filed such that the bearing sits out .030 to .080 inches from the axle. Seems like a really odd way to set a clearance, but that is what my instructions say. Did you check that dimension? Have you had any issues? Not sure how important this is.... Guess I will find out when mine arrive. Thanks for the video!!
Ok so #1 I'm jealous of your Scrambler so let me get that out of the way. Haha. I totally agree with you about the bearing clearance but hadn't had any issues with bearing clearance only the leaky axle seal. Now that we have replaced the seal I still have no issues with that seal or bearing etc. Had we installed that one piece axle kit (and I wish we had based on that seal) I would have set the clearance per the instructions. Hope the video helped and good luck with your Scrambler (still jealous). JD
I had to do the same thing on my Scrambler.
@@MrAllegiant1 Yeah actually just got mine together finally. It seems ok so far but so far has only been down the street and back.... Got to go put some miles on it :)
Same bearing that I have in my hand rate now but my directions and I think yours do not mention outer bearing cup but refer to the inner race, the part that rides against the axle. it says hat the inner race thick part should face the inner splines of the axle. it even highlights it in red. So just saying and maybe I'm missing something. To me the outer race holds the bearing in the axle housing and the outer race is held in by the backing plate so bearing cant go anywhere. the bearing is forced against the bearing on the other axle and then you set your end play and all that fun stuff. So if the outer cup is installed first in the housing then the bearing what is retaining the bearing. the brake backing plate center hole is to bit and would ride on the cage of the bearing and the outer seal is not for thrust and cant retain the bearing for long. also this bearing 9 is Timken 778- 08 which is the same bearing as in the two piece axle. Ok just help me understand what is holding the bearing and axle from just coming out of the housing. it cant be the brake backing plate since. The out seal is just that a seal and seal retainer plate not meant to hold in the axle or bearing. do me a favor if you wilkeep
BarberChop my issue is my instructions are not specific enough and my diagram appears to show the narrow side of cone facing the splines but I have to agree with everything you said so thanks for convincing me this video has it backwards.
@@stiglu Found the instructions I got with my one piece axles a while back new I'd need them. Now how do I load a pic?
I'm going to contact Moser again today to try to clarify. JD
Jason, like you I installed the bearing exactly as it is pictured in the instructions after confirming with Moser's tech support that it is correct (the way I have it in the video). Barberchop and I have been going back and forth for a long time on this issue and I'm going to call Moser tech support again today to try to clarify. I'm not saying he's wrong but the instructions as well as Moser are saying he is. I'll update this thread after I talk to them.
Thanks for the video. Gotta do this on my 78. Po put one peace axles in and they leak.
It’s most likely that inner seal leaking. Glad the video could help!! JD
Oh I'm not the one that gave you a negative thumbs down. I don't do that
Thanks. JD
Sorry got timeline wrong somehow. at 6;32 if you look at the bearing on the axle it is pointing the wrong way. The outer race should be there also and not able to stay in the housing. The bearing and race should be pushing the axle inward towards each other that's why there is a thrust button between the two axles. Get the diagram on line and you should see the concern. basically take it all apart and redo it right. Just trying to help before you loose your axles. did you check the link i sent. Take a look and think about it for a while.. why install bearings that push the axles outward.
Ok, I'll go back and look and see. I'll pull up a diagram online as well. Thanks for pointing this out. JD
I have one apart rate now if you want a pic of the bearing and race installed properly
Sure, can you email it to JD_Offline@yahoo.com?
Hey me again. at time line 16.02 you can see the bearing race is still inside the housing. If done right that would be impossible. the race is what holds the bearing inside the housing. the backing plate for the brakes is what holds the race in. The thick part of the race should be pointing to the outside. there should be shims on the drivers side between the housing and backing plate to determine end play . I recommend do not drive the vehicle. think about it there really isn't anything holding your axles in except for the cage around your bearing not the bearing race. look up on line the AMC 20 schematic. there is a thrust button inside the carrier to connect the to axles.
At 16:02 I'm closing out the video and the Jeep isn't in the frame. I'm not doubting what you are saying I just don't quite understand how they are installed wrong. JD
Do you need to pack grease in the bearings?
I did not and haven't had any issues so far. I oiled them but didn't pack them. JD
Amigo disculpa, una pregunta.
La diferencial trasera original de Jeep Renegade es de eje flotante o fue modificada para suspender los ejes de guía o cuñerito?
Gracias por su respuesta.
If someone can translate this I'd be happy to respond. JD
He asked if the original jeep renegade was a floating axle or was it a lot of fun to suspend the Rear guide or wedge axle
You say that the "seal retainer" has to be against the seal and the last guy had "poor craftsmanship" but when you put the retainer back in you have a space between the seal and retainer....look at 11:45.
I can't see what you are referring to but I can tell you that I have no more leak from the axle seal. The "last guy" is a longer story than just this video. I took my Jeep to a shop and had the gears changed and the transfer case rebuilt. The Jeep locked up about a mile from the shop due to the transfer case and a piece of metal left in the transfer case and causing the gears to lock up. This shop and mechanic also damaged the seals, used the old ones and/or didn't replace the axle seals and used what I believe to be the old pinion seals so now my pinions are leaking as well. Then there's the issue of how much time these repairs took (4 weeks vs the promised 2 weeks), and all the things he said he would do that he didn't do so the story is deeper than just this one video and I mention it throughout my Jeep build (70+ videos). Like I said I can't really see what you are saying at that time but now you know more of the whole story. After my experiences taking my CJ to shops, I started doing more things myself so now I only have myself to blame if something doesn't work. Check out my other videos on my Jeep build, Camaro build and Square Body build on my channel. With some mentoring from a buddy of mine, I have accomplished and learned a lot. Good luck with your channel. JD
@@JDOffline I'm referring to the gap between the seal and that machined ring. You talk about it at 7:05 -->. Isn't that "spacer" actually to set the bearing preload on the shaft?
Does that bearing need axel grease
We made sure we packed and greased everything up. It’s been running great w no issues so I think we are good! JD
I'm late to the party, but with the way this mechanic is leaving a trail of woe I hope someone went back and checked the backlash and contact pattern on the ring and pinion.
Hey John! Thank you for the comment but replacing an axle seal shouldn't have interfered with the ring and pinion contact pattern or backlash. If you know other wise please let me know, I've not had any problems since this repair. Thanks. JD
I hate doing this to you. Yea the guy that did your diff really didn't know what he was doing but you did what he did wrong. You installed the bearing and race in reverse just like the other guy did. The jeep 20 AMC 20 is a semi floating axle and has a thrust button between the axles and rely's on the shims on one axle only to get the end play. The thick part on the race should be towards the retainer (outside). think about it the retainer pushes against the race that holds the bearing in. the smaller part of the bearing points outward against the race. So what is actually holding your axles in place. Trust me I worked for AMC in the late 70' and 80's and have rebuilt many a diff. if you don't be leave me check out online the service manual for an AMC 20. and it doesn't matter if its one piece or two piece axles. Oh and since they are backwards your not actually using the internal thrust button. hope you havent lost your axles yet.
No worries about any feedback, I welcome it all. I'm not sure I follow you 100% though and will have to go back and watch the video again. All we did was replace the inner seal, we didn't change the bearings or race or anything like that so if it was installed wrong, it was done so by the shop. This was several years ago and i have had no issues with the axles. They are standing up to the v8 power just fine so far. Thanks for the feedback. Hopefully I don't have any issues. JD
Sorry guys I thought I was just trying to help. I know all about the spacer and removing the shims and grinding the spacer to get the proper end play. I have used them before. and do prefer the shims better. So yes its no longer a semi floating axle and just a independent bearing per side, Odd that being said. Because tapered bearings have to be used with another tapered bearing they cant be independent there tapered they have to be used with another tapered bearing. kind of defeats there purpose. This set up would only make sense with a non tapered roller bearing set up like on Ford diffs. With the roller bearing set up you would most likely need to remove the Thrust block. I would like to know the part number of the bearings you are using. I did go to the Moser One piece axle sight and read thru there info and there is a section saying the thick part of the inner race faces the axle splines. So on most bearings the thick inner race would be the fat end of the bearing and would have the bearing pointing toward the tire like on the two piece axle. So maybe you have a different type of bearing then I'm accustom too. I really would like to see what bearing your using. I'm not being a jerk. at least I hope not, Maybe I'm seeing thing wrong, after all I'm getting up there in age. and yes I have been wrong on occasions.
You're not being a jerk at all. The bearing is a Timken Set 9 bearing and the thick part of the race that points toward the axle splines can only cover the narrower side of the bearing since it is a tapered bearing. The thin side of the race has to point toward the tire. I show the bearing in the video. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. The Jeep is running great with the set up per Moser. JD
@@JDOffline R U talking about the inner or outer race/cone??
@@warbed1 the outer part of the race is the thicker part and faces the splines.
@@JDOffline I've seen the Moser directions and it never mentions anything about the OUTER RACE. It clearly says the LARGER LIP ON INNER RACE OF BEARING MUST FACE AXLE SPLINES! Surely you know the difference between an inner and outer race?? Tell ya what, pick up one of those bearings from your Camaro rear end and just look at the INNER RACE! One side of it is larger than the other! And Moser among all others clearly says the LARGER LIP OF THE INNER RACE OF BEARING MUST FACE AXLE SPLINES. I don't know what everyone else reads, but that's what I read
Guess you can sue Moser when your axle comes out because that's the way they told you it goes. Yet their instructions say otherwise 🤷🏼♂️
I'd have a long talk with that mechanic.
Shawn trust me I did but to no avail. It was better to cut my losses and fix what needed to be fixed myself. Thanks for the comment and for checking out the video. JD
I am doing a AMC 20 rate now for a 401 gremlin and will show you what I mean. but having the bearing lie you have its pushing the axles outward. you want the bearing were there pushing the axles inward against each other and the thrust button. that's what makes it a semi floating axle. sorry but it is a safety item. also does note matter if its one piece or two piece I've done both. I know I'm harpin on you but everyone on line is got it wrong except one guy and everyone is telling him he is doing it wrong. ill send you his link
I know you only did the seal but still the bearing are wrong and new seal will fail if not the hole rear end. check this link. AMC 20 Tear Down & Rebuild | Drum Brake How To | Jeep CJ5 Project, Pt9 at 12;30 he shows the proper way the bearing should be installed weather its a one piece or two piece axle. Oh I did make a comment that he reversed the brake shows.
I appreciate the feedback but still not clear on how you are saying it should go? JD
BarberChop the bearing cone points towards the tire for two piece axles but it points toward the differential for one piece axles. It is clear in the instructions that come with the one piece kit. The one piece kit includes a bearing spacer inside the housing that is not there with two piece axles. The bearing spacer sets preload by pressing against the outer race. The bearing spacer is machined down to set the preload correctly.
Hope that bud light tastes good😂
Old video my friend! Miller Lite all the way. JD
Sucks that you have to redo work that you paid good money to have done for you.
Hey Jim, yeah when I picked up the Jeep the transfer case that he rebuilt locked up and left me on the side of the road. They had the Jeep towed and fixed that but that is why I never took it back to that shop to get the seals fixed. I found similar experiences at most local shops for some reason. Hope your Jeep is coming along!