Nurgle is my favorite faction and I'm happy that we got an in-depth tutorial on painting one of their model's in your style. Thank you for sharing your techniques and tips. I learned many useful theories and techniques that are applicable to painting any mini through this series. It's not very often that I can be excited to put in 1000's of hours of practice. It is wonderful that Kimera has teamed up with you to share this knowledge. i look forward to seeing many more insightful videos.
I'm painting figures for 3 years now. Last year I bought my first Kimera Paints. Since then I have learnt a lot and improved my skills significantly. Maybe because I started to think about what I want to achieve whit the Figure Bevor I start putting Paints on my palett. All the colleges of my modelling club where surprised on how much better my figures are became in this short time. And your videos are everytime a great inspiration and help to me. Keep up your fantastic work and... Molto Grazie from Switzerland
Yes, i keep working on these videos. Sadly being them informative and not entertaining i'm getting a low amount of views and this makes this job super hard. But i'll keep trying.
Great video, really really useful, congratulations. I suppose that you tried the pose of the model and that the feet had enough space before priming. Also, did you pin the feet? or was it just glue? Lastly, the pastels were applicated on dry brush, but did you fix them afterwards with anything? Apparently not, it surprises me that there is no need for that. Expecting next video with enthusiasm, keep up the excellent work!
Thanks so much. As for the questions: - I tried to pose the model first to see if there was enough space before flattening the part and then priming black. - No i didn't pin the model, since the model is super light i thought it wasn't needed. - I didn't fix the pastels, they stay there unless you start touching the model (i.e. gaming), in that case you can fix them with a spray or airbrush varnish but for a display model i recommend not to. A varnish will make the satin parts and the matte parts equalized and I don't want this. So i never varnish my display models.
Love using pigments on my bases. Wandering what the differences are between pastels and pigments (Vallejo in my case)? Any recommendation for giving the pastels a try?
I had noticed that some cheaper chalk pastels may have a bit of mica in them (think Daiso or whatever dollar-shop equivalent you have). Pigment powders, on the other hand, aside from price, tend to be pretty "pure" so I think they're unlikely to introduce unintended effects into your work. They both can be sealed with varnishes I believe.
Dry pastels are pure pigments compressed and grind super fine. Miniature pigments are usually not pure as they are used for bases and not too fine either. For bases the miniature pigments are good enough but they tend to lack color while artist dry pastels are much more versatile. You could use a magenta in a skintone shadow for example while I wouldn’t dare using a Vallejo one in there. But I may be outdated in the quality of miniature pigments, I don’t remember seeing a pure color in that range except for Hera models fluo range.
@@kimeramodels Vallejo ones are probably not pure, but they are definitely super fine. If I intentionally put them on my models, I can't see any individual pigment particles (not under a magnifying glass at least); it's like super fine dust. You can blend with them on models. Vince Venturella has a video on it.
Ok then it works, the purity of the color matters only if you are interest in shading with them. If you use them only to create a dust feeling for bases and weathering, they are good.
Nurgle is my favorite faction and I'm happy that we got an in-depth tutorial on painting one of their model's in your style. Thank you for sharing your techniques and tips. I learned many useful theories and techniques that are applicable to painting any mini through this series. It's not very often that I can be excited to put in 1000's of hours of practice. It is wonderful that Kimera has teamed up with you to share this knowledge. i look forward to seeing many more insightful videos.
Thank you very much. Btw it’s not a collaboration with kimera but I’m (Riccardo) one of the 4 partners of the company. :)
I'm painting figures for 3 years now. Last year I bought my first Kimera Paints. Since then I have learnt a lot and improved my skills significantly.
Maybe because I started to think about what I want to achieve whit the Figure Bevor I start putting Paints on my palett. All the colleges of my modelling club where surprised on how much better my figures are became in this short time. And your videos are everytime a great inspiration and help to me. Keep up your fantastic work and...
Molto Grazie from Switzerland
Wow this is so good to hear! I’m so glad they helped you!
Very Good Video as always, thanks Maestro Agostini! 🙌🏼🌞🐝💨💨
Thank you very much for posting this video. It is very useful. You showed that it possible for us to create a nice display base
Professional
Riccardo, you are not only awesome painter and teacher, but also awesome builder. A talented person is talented in everything. Thx for the contents.
Thank you so much
@@kimeramodels Can we see new contents with Riccardo in the future?
Yes, i keep working on these videos. Sadly being them informative and not entertaining i'm getting a low amount of views and this makes this job super hard. But i'll keep trying.
Thoroughly enjoyed this series! Learned a lot too!
thanks so much! I think this is the most interesting one
Great video, really really useful, congratulations. I suppose that you tried the pose of the model and that the feet had enough space before priming. Also, did you pin the feet? or was it just glue? Lastly, the pastels were applicated on dry brush, but did you fix them afterwards with anything? Apparently not, it surprises me that there is no need for that. Expecting next video with enthusiasm, keep up the excellent work!
Thanks so much. As for the questions:
- I tried to pose the model first to see if there was enough space before flattening the part and then priming black.
- No i didn't pin the model, since the model is super light i thought it wasn't needed.
- I didn't fix the pastels, they stay there unless you start touching the model (i.e. gaming), in that case you can fix them with a spray or airbrush varnish but for a display model i recommend not to. A varnish will make the satin parts and the matte parts equalized and I don't want this. So i never varnish my display models.
@@kimeramodels Thanks a lot for your answers, all clarified, have a nice day!
Love using pigments on my bases. Wandering what the differences are between pastels and pigments (Vallejo in my case)? Any recommendation for giving the pastels a try?
I had noticed that some cheaper chalk pastels may have a bit of mica in them (think Daiso or whatever dollar-shop equivalent you have). Pigment powders, on the other hand, aside from price, tend to be pretty "pure" so I think they're unlikely to introduce unintended effects into your work.
They both can be sealed with varnishes I believe.
Dry pastels are pure pigments compressed and grind super fine. Miniature pigments are usually not pure as they are used for bases and not too fine either. For bases the miniature pigments are good enough but they tend to lack color while artist dry pastels are much more versatile. You could use a magenta in a skintone shadow for example while I wouldn’t dare using a Vallejo one in there. But I may be outdated in the quality of miniature pigments, I don’t remember seeing a pure color in that range except for Hera models fluo range.
@@kimeramodels Vallejo ones are probably not pure, but they are definitely super fine. If I intentionally put them on my models, I can't see any individual pigment particles (not under a magnifying glass at least); it's like super fine dust. You can blend with them on models. Vince Venturella has a video on it.
Ok then it works, the purity of the color matters only if you are interest in shading with them. If you use them only to create a dust feeling for bases and weathering, they are good.
When will be news about brushes made by Kimera Kolors?
Not sure yet. It’s way more difficult than it seems