Ian inspired a lot of people with this idea. I just started using these too. This is my fourth winter with bees, but my first time wintering bees in Wisconsin. (Price County, Zone 3). It's nice to find another Wisconsin beekeeper who is also on RUclips.
New South Denver Colorado bee keeper here! I wrap 3 sides of my hives with this double bubble. I didn't think about using it for top inner cover. I use it for out travel trailer to keep the temp consistent. When its hot out it keeps cool, when cool keeps warm. I figured that would work for my girls to keep their hive temp consistent as well. Thanks for the video. I was hoping that this was going to work I was just trying it out before I even seen this video.
I'm so on it. I have been thinking about using this. Thank you. Hey, would it diminish its R value at all if I were to cut a hole in the middle of it so I could use my top feeder? Over course come winter, I would use a solid Reflectix. So grateful for this video.
@@KevinsNorthernExposure I was thinking if the Propolised the flexible inner cover there would be no room between the top of trap and cover for the Beetles to fall into the trap
I use a thick canvas cover that goes under my wood inner cover and it's soooooooooooooo much better because it breaths, and it keeps the propolis from making loud crack noise that bothers the bees.
I don't worry about the noise.. doesn't seem to bother the bees too much....and I don't need it to breathe.....it's under the lid and I need it to stop winter drafts and robbing...which it does well..... ...... but.....U of Guelph uses the canvas...I tried it...didn't like it as much as the reflectix.... but that said....they both are better than the wooden inner cover.
I'm also curious about, do you put a hole in your brood boxes for ventilation, especially for the winter. I'm also doing a few 10 frame single hives, to overwinter this year. Thanks for your time
I do have holes in the upper portion of some brood boxes, but are currently closed with corks to prevent robbing....not sure upper vent is necessary...I've heard from other northern beeks that it's not, but I worry about moisture buildup so I open them in November to allow venting and bees a way to get out if lower entrance is blocked.
Thanks for the video and tips. Do you get condensation on the bottom of this inner cover? Just wondering how the moisture will travel up to leave the hive in the minter? Thanks again.
Where are you located Kevin? I'm in NYC. Its my first year getting back into beekeeping but I had it through my first year with zero varroa!!! Super healthy hive. So excited for the honey next year.
Just a few dollars more than plywood and many times better. NO WARPAGE. But if you can’t get it then you are out of luck anyway. I won’t try to convince you any further. 😁
I used it last year to wrap. I found it kept my hives too active and then they ran through stores quickly. ...so this year I used nothing...didn't wrap...as an experiment.
Just curious, why do professional beekeepers call the nectar flow the "Honey flow", since Bees make the honey? The real honey flow is actually during extraction
There is no top venting. It's not necessary and even a hinderance. I did away with top venting years ago. Ian Stepplar (has a youtube channel) from Canada...a commercial beekeeper. I learned this from him...works great.
You can feed multiple ways: 1: Frame feeders 2: you can cut a flap in the center under the hole in your lid and just use a hole plug to seal the lid when not in use. 3. You can use a hivetop feeder. The foil backed inner cover would go on top of the feeder under the lid.
If you add a feeder shim to add sugar or fondant on top.... does this flexible cover sag with no center support? Also - it appears that the reflectix sits flat onto the fames...no bee space gap at all? Thx
@@KevinsNorthernExposure I'm a UK beekeeper and first started in the early 80's, I had to look it up as I have never heard of visqueen. I've always used a wooden crownboard (inner cover) and have kept the feeder holes closed in the winter and have been using 2 inches of kingspan between the crownboard and roof.
@@beehinde I believe in Europe you refer to it as "plastic foil"......check out my playlist called "German beekeeping"...you can see her using it.... probably geographically ignorant of me to have said UK when I j meant Europe.
@@KevinsNorthernExposure Thank you Kevin for your response. Paul Walton uses inner covers similar to the German IWF videos, he is also a RUclipsr and has a selection of IWF videos. He works with the Carnolian Honeybee. In the UK we have National hives with bottom bee space and wooden crownboards (inner covers) which give us bee space above the frames, I use 2 inches of PIR above the crownboard.
As that Canuck remarked In situations of long harsh winters getting rid of moisture in the hive is very important, so, some kind of opening in this otherwise tite flex cover is quite important. A hole in about the center of the flex cover just as it is used in wooden inner covers would probably do it. That hole can then also be used for supplementary feeding as needed.
I have 2" foam insulation directly over the reflectix and wide open lower entrances. There is no cold surface on the lid to condense upon with the insulation in place.
If the bee's wanted ventilation they wouldn't seal it all the way around.Who drills a hole at the top of the cluster in a tree with only a knothole for an entrance?
@@lippardr well, you have a point if we housed our bees in thick tree trunks...but we do not....we hive them in 3/4" thick boxes, so we have to use different techniques to save our bees from moisture related issues that the bees do not know will occur in winter in their box shaped home.
in the summer? no...in the winter I place 2" of foam insulation on top of the reflectix directly under the lid. Then dry as a bone...if I left the reflectix to the cold, then I would have condensation.
Ian inspired a lot of people with this idea. I just started using these too.
This is my fourth winter with bees, but my first time wintering bees in Wisconsin. (Price County, Zone 3).
It's nice to find another Wisconsin beekeeper who is also on RUclips.
New South Denver Colorado bee keeper here! I wrap 3 sides of my hives with this double bubble. I didn't think about using it for top inner cover. I use it for out travel trailer to keep the temp consistent. When its hot out it keeps cool, when cool keeps warm. I figured that would work for my girls to keep their hive temp consistent as well. Thanks for the video. I was hoping that this was going to work I was just trying it out before I even seen this video.
use 2" foam on top in winter and vent well
I'm so on it. I have been thinking about using this. Thank you. Hey, would it diminish its R value at all if I were to cut a hole in the middle of it so I could use my top feeder? Over course come winter, I would use a solid Reflectix. So grateful for this video.
all mine have cut flaps so I can top feed and then I put back flap for the winter.
I use flexible covers also. I'll have the try the reflectex. I cut a opening in the center for ventilation. It works for me.
If you have small hive beetles and they Propolise the flexible covers to the top of frames can you still small hive beetle traps in the top box?
@@cestapl yep
@@KevinsNorthernExposure I was thinking if the Propolised the flexible inner cover there would be no room between the top of trap and cover for the Beetles to fall into the trap
I use a thick canvas cover that goes under my wood inner cover and it's soooooooooooooo much better because it breaths, and it keeps the propolis from making loud crack noise that bothers the bees.
I don't worry about the noise.. doesn't seem to bother the bees too much....and I don't need it to breathe.....it's under the lid and I need it to stop winter drafts and robbing...which it does well..... ......
but.....U of Guelph uses the canvas...I tried it...didn't like it as much as the reflectix.... but that said....they both are better than the wooden inner cover.
I'm also curious about, do you put a hole in your brood boxes for ventilation, especially for the winter.
I'm also doing a few 10 frame single hives, to overwinter this year.
Thanks for your time
I do have holes in the upper portion of some brood boxes, but are currently closed with corks to prevent robbing....not sure upper vent is necessary...I've heard from other northern beeks that it's not, but I worry about moisture buildup so I open them in November to allow venting and bees a way to get out if lower entrance is blocked.
@@KevinsNorthernExposure thanks for your time
Snow cold winds are a howling today, that good top seal is important here!
How do you handle winter moisture removal ?
2" foam insulation on top of the reflectix....no cold surface to condense upon
.also' full open bottom entrances.
Thanks for the video and tips. Do you get condensation on the bottom of this inner cover? Just wondering how the moisture will travel up to leave the hive in the minter? Thanks again.
I put 2" foam boards on top of the reflectix in the winter months.
I also use Reflectix- works great for the extreme heat in California during late summer.
Thanks Kevin. Looks like a winner and cost savings.
Why it is that you are using migratory covers instead if telescoping covers? Did I miss that? What are the advantages of migratory covers? Thanks.
I am able to push hives together to share warmth with migratory lids.
Where are you located Kevin? I'm in NYC. Its my first year getting back into beekeeping but I had it through my first year with zero varroa!!! Super healthy hive. So excited for the honey next year.
Wisconsin
If you use reflective how does the moisture escape your hive?
The bees regulate the moisture in the hive. In the winter I use a 2" piece of foam board. Other than that, there is no issue.
Use 3/4 advantec flooring and eliminate your top warpage problems. I did .
Expensive' and not readily available here where I live.
Just a few dollars more than plywood and many times better. NO WARPAGE. But if you can’t get it then you are out of luck anyway. I won’t try to convince you any further. 😁
I use it as a wrap - but paint the outside flat black. - wished it came in flat black vs. silver - its a great heat source (solar gain) in the winter
I used it last year to wrap. I found it kept my hives too active and then they ran through stores quickly. ...so this year I used nothing...didn't wrap...as an experiment.
Just curious, why do professional beekeepers call the nectar flow the "Honey flow", since Bees make the honey? The real honey flow is actually during extraction
Vernacular...
Is this what you use for wintering bee's? Or are you still using 3in foam on top?
I put 2" foam on top of this
Have you ever used a feeder shim with these flexible inner covers? For feeding dry sugar.
Yep
How does that work for venting, as seems there would then be no top vent.
There is no top venting. It's not necessary and even a hinderance. I did away with top venting years ago. Ian Stepplar (has a youtube channel) from Canada...a commercial beekeeper. I learned this from him...works great.
Insulate, don't ventilate.
How do you feed from the top using this type of board. ? Maybe you can video that . Thanks . New beekeeper.
You can feed multiple ways:
1: Frame feeders
2: you can cut a flap in the center under the hole in your lid and just use a hole plug to seal the lid when not in use.
3. You can use a hivetop feeder. The foil backed inner cover would go on top of the feeder under the lid.
If you add a feeder shim to add sugar or fondant on top.... does this flexible cover sag with no center support? Also - it appears that the reflectix sits flat onto the fames...no bee space gap at all? Thx
although it's very flexible, it doesn't sag like visqueen would ....Visqueen has been used in the UK for decades as an inner cover.
There is bee space for bees to maneuver under relectix
@@KevinsNorthernExposure I'm a UK beekeeper and first started in the early 80's, I had to look it up as I have never heard of visqueen. I've always used a wooden crownboard (inner cover) and have kept the feeder holes closed in the winter and have been using 2 inches of kingspan between the crownboard and roof.
@@beehinde I believe in Europe you refer to it as "plastic foil"......check out my playlist called "German beekeeping"...you can see her using it.... probably geographically ignorant of me to have said UK when I j meant Europe.
@@KevinsNorthernExposure Thank you Kevin for your response. Paul Walton uses inner covers similar to the German IWF videos, he is also a RUclipsr and has a selection of IWF videos. He works with the Carnolian Honeybee. In the UK we have National hives with bottom bee space and wooden crownboards (inner covers) which give us bee space above the frames, I use 2 inches of PIR above the crownboard.
Will you go back to the bee company your working for next season ?👍
Nope...I've had my fill of commercial beekeeping....I'm a labor resource to be used and abused...it's not for me.
You use these year round?
yes, year round.
Please explain how you handle an upper entrance and ventilation
hole in upper portion of brood box b/t frames
Would this work in a tropical environment, say the Caribbean? Wood is quite expensive and generally of poor quality.
Cannot see why it wouldn't work just fine.
As that Canuck remarked In situations of long harsh winters getting rid of moisture in the hive is very important, so, some kind of opening in this otherwise tite flex cover is quite important. A hole in about the center of the flex cover just as it is used in wooden inner covers would probably do it. That hole can then also be used for supplementary feeding as needed.
I have 2" foam insulation directly over the reflectix and wide open lower entrances. There is no cold surface on the lid to condense upon with the insulation in place.
If the bee's wanted ventilation they wouldn't seal it all the way around.Who drills a hole at the top of the cluster in a tree with only a knothole for an entrance?
@@lippardr well, you have a point if we housed our bees in thick tree trunks...but we do not....we hive them in 3/4" thick boxes, so we have to use different techniques to save our bees from moisture related issues that the bees do not know will occur in winter in their box shaped home.
So you get no condensation under that reflectix cover that could fall on the bees?
in the summer? no...in the winter I place 2" of foam insulation on top of the reflectix directly under the lid. Then dry as a bone...if I left the reflectix to the cold, then I would have condensation.
also important to have upper and lower vents