These machine polishing for beginners guides really do help people out Jon. I remember when I used to watch your older vids and thinking 'how does he do it' then after getting the guts to machine polish the roof of my car and it coming out like a mirror I soldiered one and ended up with a car with like factory finish. To all the people squeamish of using a polisher I say use a DA and its easy
@@ForensicDetailing Jon IKEA has one that you can use as trolley and it's smaller in size but works quite good actually. Don't know if it's different names of them in the UK. The one I got is called Råskog but can be spelled Raskog in the UK. Saw when I looked up the name I saw a new one called Nissafors where the shelfs is solid and the one I have has got a metall net kind of material. It's great when you are on a low budget.
Forced rotation is great, i have a makita bo6050 with all accessories removed. Its a good sander for trizact discs in random mode. Has a built in pad brake with random mode. Forced mode its pretty handy too. Po6000c though is more powerful.
@@ForensicDetailing quiet mate, not much at the moment. Have been job hunting for a while to try and get off the tools. A few leads might get me somewhere. Podcast with the rag company in the near future.
@@ForensicDetailing thankyou Jon, i truly appreciate that. I love the industry and would do almost anything for it. Stay tuned for videos of me discussing stuff about the industry on my personal facebook page. Will mention you to the boys at TRG
Just machine polished one of my cars for the first time. It looks so much better but I waxed it straight away. I think I should have polished it first. I have a good range of Bilt Hamber products and AutiGlym super resin polish. Should I remove the wax and start again ? I have Surfex and BH Cleaner and Cleaner Polish.
Hi, firstly thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge….just a question about rotation speed. I own a flex 1120 forced rotation polisher with 6 speed settings 1200,1700,2200,2700,3200 and 3700rpm…which speed setting should I use on a one product (rupes yellow fine with rupes yellow pads) thanks in advance
turbo answer. speed 1 to spread polish. Speed 4-5 to work it properly. you dont bog down with forced rotation so its more about working good speed that does not over heat panel or dust up the product.
I am sure you have a video, but for the life of me cannot find it, but how about a video on winter prepping your wheels? If you've done one before I apologise and will make an appointment at my nearest specsavers.
this video was great fun again :), not that much informative really, but it sure was hilarious :). I mean sure the polishing is clear, but we cant see much really, neither do i know what kinda pad your using :) its orange, but many orange ones on the url below. but for the guys who never did polishing its usefull for sure. I wouldnt advice the forced rotation for beginners though? although the stalling on the DA's is tricky, but a line on the side of the pad helps so you can see when its stalling and you have to adjust the angle and movement. But great fun, put a smile on my face for sure :)
your right its not the best name for the video. Ive done like the structured "how to machine polish" ones a few times, this was a bit more informal.. theres actually another part to this video where I talk about pads, you can no longer get the pad I use on this machine. I really dont see why you should not consider starting out your machine polishing with a forced rotation ... dunno though, maybe you can argue a normal DA is the way to go? cheers buddy :)
Hey Jon you know what would be a great idea? Borrowing cheap handheld aldi polisher from someone or possibly buying one and try to correct paintwork. Just for test and a laugh :)
Hi Jon, thanks for the video as always. On a car that's in pretty good shape, how long do you find yourself polishing? I see people out there saying they 'washed, deconned, clayed, polished and coated their car toDAY' while I find myself spending close to 3 full days when I'm doing a job like this on one of my cars... Was wondering if I'm that much of a slacker or doing something wrong.
this is the million dollar question. and even though its a cliche there is no right or wrong answer. some people will see the 100 hour details being done in videos and laugh and think thats ludicrous. some people will see someone polishing a car outside in 1 hour and think thats rubbish. And theres a lot of "in between scenarios" isnt there. So I spent about 10-15 hours back in the summer polishing the m140 although I wasted about 4-6hours on bonnet issues (the divots). I still had swirls which some people would say should be taken out. most Ive spent polishing a car is prolly 3-4 days total polishing time. I wont ever do that again because for me its too much. Im getting less fussy as I get older. It also really depends on the car for me, and what Im doing with it.. nowadays I dont even bother cleaning the golf for example. The m140 Im not so meticulous about. So there is no right answer. you can clay a car in 20 minutes or you can take 3 hours doing it. generally the longer you take and the more caefull you are the better results. But dunno you also got to crack on and get it done. I believe polishing and coating a car in a day is a tall order, but a lot of people want this so a lot of pros offer it on a best efforts basis. tell you what though aaron. 3days to me start to finish, wash decon polish coat.. that sounds sort of perfect really.
@@ForensicDetailing Thanks for taking your time to write that extensive reply. Spend about 8 hours so far polishing the M2 today. Going back into the garage to finish up the boot for another 2 hours and I'll be done 👍 Rebadging and Gyeon Syncro tomorrow 👍 Long beach blue was a really easy color to work with.
@@ForensicDetailing Actually, it's 10 years! I'm an over-thinker, and watched too many PRO videos when I bought my stuff. I don't even know why I'm being so hesitant. It's a well-pinstriped 4WD with hard, two-pack paint (Toyota Hilux) that I just want to smarten up a bit. I'll give it a crack soon. Thanks Mate. Love your videos. You've got some character!
Is after the 14 minute mark, when you’re trying to get the sun light out of the shot. It looks like the compound residue is still on the panel. It’s not scratches or anything 👍
Mikeyboy essex I think it’s just the residue not wiped off. We know John can spot a speck of dust at 100 yards so we might be seeing something he already knows about 👍
Nice video would you not use IPA straight after you finish machine polishing as your first wipe down rather than use a cloth directly on used compound???
I tend to just wipe off like the residue first. or else if you spray onto like the thick layer of compound it thins it all out and makes more mess. so just do a dry wipe first and use the IPA to remove the trace elements of polish. So your almost using IPA on what looks like a clean panel. thats why I do.
Great vids!! Im going to attempt one step polish this weekend following your guidance. After Ive cut using Scholl S20 and a green pad what do I do next? Wax?
hey doug yes mate give it a wipe down with a panel wipe product like gyeon prep or see my how to make homemade panel wipe video. then apply a wax or sealantt mate. we have lots of videos with more info on polishing washing ruclips.net/video/AUytWaLtOOo/видео.html decon ruclips.net/video/9B9Cn-GeJqw/видео.html polishing ruclips.net/video/MI_m2rO-OpM/видео.html products ruclips.net/video/I7q5E8Kz-CY/видео.html
@@ForensicDetailing Thanks for the reply! Love the sign for Alfa Romeo parking only..Thats what Im attempting to polish this weekend an old Phase 1 GTV. Thought Id take it easy and do the one step first. Congrats on the channel. Its very informative.
It would interesting to hear your opinion about ADBL ROLLER D09125-01 polisher which is made in Poland, don't know if it is available in UK. As well did you tried Koch Chemie SIL? It is alcohol-based solvent for removing silicone oils, waxes, oils such as polish residues, etc. 5 liters for 28 pounds.
@@ForensicDetailing Plus it can be diluted up to 1:4 for sensitive paint, as Koch writes on the label, which makes it almost same cost as yours proposed IPA panel wipe ;) Just not sure which one will be better your IPA panel wipe or Koch Chemie SIL when you dilute it up to 1:4.
Hi I'm new to the channel and love your honesty with the products,what polisher would you recommend for a novice and hobby detailer just on my own car,been looking and some are expensive
Have you tested bh cleanser fluid instead ipa mix? I am currently using Gyeon ipa product, but tempted to test cleanser fluid. So many people tells it much more better compared ipa.
yes have a watch of my how to make home made panel wipe video. I talk about it. its much better thatn IPA.. BH product is a hydro carbon based a lot more powerfull... only problem with it is its too expensive.
Thanks for all your great, helpful vids. I just completed my 1st machine polish on a 2006 red Panda 4x4. It was a bit faded in areas more noticeable as its had paint in places. I cant get the faded paint to stop being pinkish. I'm using Maguire compound and polish, any tips?
the paint is faded but the paint is below the clearcoat. So polishing cannot fix the faded paint. Only single stage faded paintwork can be improved by polishing.
Great video Jon as always, I’ve recently got a Maserati Quattroporte GT S in black, has anyone any idea how soft the paint is? Looking to swirl remove and minor scratches, normally use mernzernas 3in1 and orange pads on my blue for truck or the misses fiat! Any ideas or tips anyone? Again thanks for the video Jon 👌👌👌👌 Forgot to mention I’m using a vertool force drive DA
Hi John firstly I think your videos and information to us is brilliant easy to understand great job always useful, however I think I have for myself in a muddle hope you can help. I did my farther in-laws car for him and did a 1stage paint correction on his car using school S 20 then put the Russo wax on top,the cheaper one. Got a great result and he was over the moon,when I got home I couldn’t help thinking should I have put a sealant on before the wax,if so could you recommend one for me.or do I have to put a sealant on or can I just put a sealant on without the wax I am I bit confused steve
hey karen.. It depends.. if the durability of the wax product is like 3-6 months, and the durability of the sealant is 3-6 months.. then layering is a bit pointless. also putting like a solvent based wax ontop of a sealant while the wax vaporizes and cures can literally destory the sealant (in some cases) so just make sure if you are combo or layering products they are compatible.. use systems from manufacturers that are designed to be layered. If in doubt just use one main product product and layer with a water based spray wax or detail spray.
Cold over here in Detroit, MI too, Jon! Single digits last night, and currently 23° at 5:16pm. Trying to ONR wash the gf's truck... Gonna need to turn on the heater...
I see in SEMA quite a few detailers wishing for Koch Chemie polishes. Not sure if they are here in Australia but they look impressive. Do you use these much compared to Scholls, Sonax and others????
I’ve been using a DAS6 Pro for a few years now but am keen to move on to a forced rotation polisher. In2detailing list their own forced rotation DA, have you any idea how this compares to the Flex 3401 that you’re using? Edit: Disregard, I’m now watching your product review of that very polisher! 🤦🏻♂️
they dont sell that any more Joely, but you can get the vertool if you want the cheap option. I think it was the same basically. whatever tool you buy have a think about plate sizes and pads and what you might combo the machine with.
John I did my car for the first time with scholl S30 using the passing method with my DAs 6 pro , I thought it had turned out ok, I parked under strong lighting the other night and noticed that same one heavy circular mark on the bonnet that you had (you called it a schoolboy error). My bonnet was resprayed and I take it that the clear coat isn’t as hard. Can this mark be removed and if so the best product to get rid of it. Or are the products you have used in this vid the best for the job? Thanks in advance
so it sounds like you have put that swirl in your paint yourself. If its just one big noticable arc swirl that it could be a bit of grit. If theres tons of it, then its machine marring. Yes if you have really soft paint and hard pads and more agressive compaounds you can put in machine marring. So really the solution for you steve. Inspect the paint properly when its inside somewhere. the sealey LCM360 i think its called (the torch you see me use) is superb for this. If you have just one piece individual swirl just go again with S30 and a soft pad.. if you spot loads then step down to a finer abrasive and a softer pad.
So Jon, what's the best technique for polishing the concave surfaces. I was doing my mothers VW Fox (I know) that we bought her with loads of scratches from a hedge. The lower sides of the car are concave and of course the pad does not sit flat on the surface of the panel so how do you get into those areas best?
@@ForensicDetailing Thanks Jon, that's pretty much what I did really and the results came out pretty good, I just wondered if there was some trick or other. I found that when I fitted the smaller pad and backing plate to my Das 6 Pro (Purchased as recommended in your vid) that the vibrations were huge. You did mention fitting a different balance weight but there wasn't one in the Das 6 kit. Do you know where these can be found?
id be interested to check it out as well deje, theres a few issues with it at the moment though Im not sure whats going on. but hopefully I can borrow one.
imo yes. you can work abrasives a bit harder with the forced rotation, with the DA you cant really utilise the pressure so well without introducing stall. Even though stall is expected, it effects performance or distance travelled is reduced when you loose the spin. when using finishing polishes to gloss up paint or take our fine marring it doesnt really matter... but with cutting it makes a noticable difference.. at least for me. I notice it more if Im taking out swirls and using a free spinning DA I cant get the correction on the edges so much.
Is this Flex 8mm? I just bought Dino Kraft Paket 9mm 650w 150mm ( under 90 dollars and very good reviews) and i find i need more than 9mm. Have you looked into Dino Kraft Paket polishers yet?
not sure I understand dave. you mean like when you do the wipe downs after using M3 you cant get all the polish off to a nice clear product free finish?
@@davidsosnak2968 can't go wrong with H8.02. Only takes me two passes on my ford to correct it. A finishing polish doesn't even add significantly more gloss to the paint so just shows how great this stuff is. Probably a 2 in 1
Jon, i'd like to ask a random question, where did you get your little stool from, for doing the low down jobs, i'm sure there are many of us old gits with dodgy knee's on here that would be interested. Also with your Koch Chemie products, do you now favour H9 and M302 over H8 and M201 or are you just testing them, with them being fairly new products.
@@ForensicDetailing Its not a problem for me. Educational, informative and entertaining videos Jon. Was taking advantage of being 4th comment and thats all i could come up with. Suggest hot toddy/whiskey plenty of honey and lemon in it.
Hey, thanks once again for all the tips! Did my first round and try on an old Mercedez that hasnt moved in 6 years outside and we got it running again so thought I had a try polishing half the hood to see sone result and i had crazy dusting with the Koch Chemie H9 and Hex yellow pad... was really curious why? And all the deffects didnt go away it feels like suuuper hard paint and impossible to polish! Managed to get good clarity back and way brighter paint but scratches still present so would it be too deep scratches maybe? If ever you want pics could send them to you via instagram 😉 thanks for the advice! Always appreciate it
Welcome to the joy of polishing Mercedes Scratch Proof paint. Its hard work mate. But Koch H9 should not be dusting its a really oily compound and low dusting. Make sure to clean out the pad properly after each set and dont try and overwork or force it too much.
Forensic Detailing Channel ohhh i see so Mercedez is bullet proof almost 😂😂.. well i do 3-4 pass’s put a good amount of product (4-5 big dots) and speed 4 and right after 1-2nd pass a lot of dusting so i was thinking maybe the clear coat over it so old or sonthing it grinded right though it 🤷🏼♂️ and even with new pad was dusting. I definitely brushed my pad with a soft toothbrush after each set! It is old paint as mentio and has deep maring as well probably also why so difficult bit sure but keen on trying other than mercedez to see the rests how it will hold up
These machine polishing for beginners guides really do help people out Jon. I remember when I used to watch your older vids and thinking 'how does he do it' then after getting the guts to machine polish the roof of my car and it coming out like a mirror I soldiered one and ended up with a car with like factory finish. To all the people squeamish of using a polisher I say use a DA and its easy
cheers zain.
For sure
You probably got it in better condition than the factory finish.
Thanks a lot John, my wife just asked why I started wearing noise cancelling headphones all the time 🤣
another good down to earth video Jon. It will be of help to lots of people👍
Go get yourself a trolly! I love your site. Keep up the great work.
yer Ive had one for the last 5 years but it sort of rusted out.. I need a small trolly due to space issues ill sort something out.
@@ForensicDetailing Jon IKEA has one that you can use as trolley and it's smaller in size but works quite good actually. Don't know if it's different names of them in the UK. The one I got is called Råskog but can be spelled Raskog in the UK. Saw when I looked up the name I saw a new one called Nissafors where the shelfs is solid and the one I have has got a metall net kind of material. It's great when you are on a low budget.
nice to see some one doing a wing and not the bonnet for a change. more different panels please.
Forced rotation is great, i have a makita bo6050 with all accessories removed. Its a good sander for trizact discs in random mode. Has a built in pad brake with random mode. Forced mode its pretty handy too. Po6000c though is more powerful.
Yo Matt, wassup mate. Hows things downunder.
@@ForensicDetailing quiet mate, not much at the moment. Have been job hunting for a while to try and get off the tools. A few leads might get me somewhere. Podcast with the rag company in the near future.
@@matthewgibb2640 keep going Matt your an inspirational guy, good things will come! say hello to the rag company guys they rock :)
@@ForensicDetailing thankyou Jon, i truly appreciate that. I love the industry and would do almost anything for it. Stay tuned for videos of me discussing stuff about the industry on my personal facebook page. Will mention you to the boys at TRG
Thank you for this. You read my mind.
You are the absolute best!
Hi Jon, please can you review the new in2detailing gen2 DA8 900w dual action polisher please.
yes m8
Just machine polished one of my cars for the first time. It looks so much better but I waxed it straight away. I think I should have polished it first. I have a good range of Bilt Hamber products and AutiGlym super resin polish. Should I remove the wax and start again ? I have Surfex and BH Cleaner and Cleaner Polish.
Hi, firstly thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge….just a question about rotation speed. I own a flex 1120 forced rotation polisher with 6 speed settings 1200,1700,2200,2700,3200 and 3700rpm…which speed setting should I use on a one product (rupes yellow fine with rupes yellow pads) thanks in advance
turbo answer. speed 1 to spread polish. Speed 4-5 to work it properly. you dont bog down with forced rotation so its more about working good speed that does not over heat panel or dust up the product.
I am sure you have a video, but for the life of me cannot find it, but how about a video on winter prepping your wheels? If you've done one before I apologise and will make an appointment at my nearest specsavers.
"Am I recording? Yes I am." lol
I read that ipa screws with your clear coat and isn't recommended at any dilution??
Horseshit.
this video was great fun again :), not that much informative really, but it sure was hilarious :). I mean sure the polishing is clear, but we cant see much really, neither do i know what kinda pad your using :) its orange, but many orange ones on the url below. but for the guys who never did polishing its usefull for sure. I wouldnt advice the forced rotation for beginners though?
although the stalling on the DA's is tricky, but a line on the side of the pad helps so you can see when its stalling and you have to adjust the angle and movement.
But great fun, put a smile on my face for sure :)
your right its not the best name for the video. Ive done like the structured "how to machine polish" ones a few times, this was a bit more informal.. theres actually another part to this video where I talk about pads, you can no longer get the pad I use on this machine. I really dont see why you should not consider starting out your machine polishing with a forced rotation ... dunno though, maybe you can argue a normal DA is the way to go? cheers buddy :)
Hey Jon you know what would be a great idea? Borrowing cheap handheld aldi polisher from someone or possibly buying one and try to correct paintwork. Just for test and a laugh :)
my neighbour has the argos one, hes a cool guy he wont mind me borrowing it for a review.
Forensic Detailing Channel Argos when I bought mine sold the “challenge” branded one now I believe it’s “Guild” but they look identical 🤷🏼♂️
@@Mr330d not that one, the one that you hold with both hands, they calp it buffer haha i dont know the real name
Leon I know the one you’re talking about I’ve used it before
Hi Jon, thanks for the video as always. On a car that's in pretty good shape, how long do you find yourself polishing? I see people out there saying they 'washed, deconned, clayed, polished and coated their car toDAY' while I find myself spending close to 3 full days when I'm doing a job like this on one of my cars... Was wondering if I'm that much of a slacker or doing something wrong.
this is the million dollar question. and even though its a cliche there is no right or wrong answer. some people will see the 100 hour details being done in videos and laugh and think thats ludicrous. some people will see someone polishing a car outside in 1 hour and think thats rubbish. And theres a lot of "in between scenarios" isnt there. So I spent about 10-15 hours back in the summer polishing the m140 although I wasted about 4-6hours on bonnet issues (the divots). I still had swirls which some people would say should be taken out. most Ive spent polishing a car is prolly 3-4 days total polishing time. I wont ever do that again because for me its too much. Im getting less fussy as I get older. It also really depends on the car for me, and what Im doing with it.. nowadays I dont even bother cleaning the golf for example. The m140 Im not so meticulous about. So there is no right answer. you can clay a car in 20 minutes or you can take 3 hours doing it. generally the longer you take and the more caefull you are the better results. But dunno you also got to crack on and get it done.
I believe polishing and coating a car in a day is a tall order, but a lot of people want this so a lot of pros offer it on a best efforts basis. tell you what though aaron. 3days to me start to finish, wash decon polish coat.. that sounds sort of perfect really.
@@ForensicDetailing Thanks for taking your time to write that extensive reply.
Spend about 8 hours so far polishing the M2 today. Going back into the garage to finish up the boot for another 2 hours and I'll be done 👍
Rebadging and Gyeon Syncro tomorrow 👍
Long beach blue was a really easy color to work with.
@@AaronMattheus lucky man.. such a stunning car Aaron :) enjoy
Great channel always enjoy them 👍
I've owned a DA polisher for over 5 years. Haven't used it once, because it scares the hell out of me.
It should not m8, start with soft pads and finishing polishes
@@ForensicDetailing Actually, it's 10 years! I'm an over-thinker, and watched too many PRO videos when I bought my stuff. I don't even know why I'm being so hesitant. It's a well-pinstriped 4WD with hard, two-pack paint (Toyota Hilux) that I just want to smarten up a bit. I'll give it a crack soon. Thanks Mate. Love your videos. You've got some character!
Love the vids. I have watched apex review on ethos ceramic wax. Any chance we can get some in the uk to test/ use looks really good
You can really see the lines where you’ve just done the cutting, will they go after the polish stage?
for sure yer matt. gimme a time and second count where you see the lines?
Is after the 14 minute mark, when you’re trying to get the sun light out of the shot. It looks like the compound residue is still on the panel. It’s not scratches or anything 👍
Mikeyboy essex I think it’s just the residue not wiped off. We know John can spot a speck of dust at 100 yards so we might be seeing something he already knows about 👍
Nice video would you not use IPA straight after you finish machine polishing as your first wipe down rather than use a cloth directly on used compound???
I tend to just wipe off like the residue first. or else if you spray onto like the thick layer of compound it thins it all out and makes more mess. so just do a dry wipe first and use the IPA to remove the trace elements of polish. So your almost using IPA on what looks like a clean panel. thats why I do.
Great vids!! Im going to attempt one step polish this weekend following your guidance. After Ive cut using Scholl S20 and a green pad what do I do next? Wax?
hey doug yes mate give it a wipe down with a panel wipe product like gyeon prep or see my how to make homemade panel wipe video. then apply a wax or sealantt mate. we have lots of videos with more info on polishing
washing ruclips.net/video/AUytWaLtOOo/видео.html
decon ruclips.net/video/9B9Cn-GeJqw/видео.html
polishing ruclips.net/video/MI_m2rO-OpM/видео.html
products ruclips.net/video/I7q5E8Kz-CY/видео.html
@@ForensicDetailing Thanks for the reply! Love the sign for Alfa Romeo parking only..Thats what Im attempting to polish this weekend an old Phase 1 GTV. Thought Id take it easy and do the one step first. Congrats on the channel. Its very informative.
It would interesting to hear your opinion about ADBL ROLLER D09125-01 polisher which is made in Poland, don't know if it is available in UK. As well did you tried Koch Chemie SIL? It is alcohol-based solvent for removing silicone oils, waxes, oils such as polish residues, etc. 5 liters for 28 pounds.
Ive not tried max I like that price though and I trust the koch products sounds like one to check out.
@@ForensicDetailing Plus it can be diluted up to 1:4 for sensitive paint, as Koch writes on the label, which makes it almost same cost as yours proposed IPA panel wipe ;) Just not sure which one will be better your IPA panel wipe or Koch Chemie SIL when you dilute it up to 1:4.
Hi I'm new to the channel and love your honesty with the products,what polisher would you recommend for a novice and hobby detailer just on my own car,been looking and some are expensive
yo mark thanks mate. in2detailing or any DAS6 pro mate. have a look at the polishing guide for beginners videos where I show you the tool in actions.
Have you tested bh cleanser fluid instead ipa mix? I am currently using Gyeon ipa product, but tempted to test cleanser fluid. So many people tells it much more better compared ipa.
yes have a watch of my how to make home made panel wipe video. I talk about it. its much better thatn IPA.. BH product is a hydro carbon based a lot more powerfull... only problem with it is its too expensive.
Thanks for all your great, helpful vids. I just completed my 1st machine polish on a 2006 red Panda 4x4. It was a bit faded in areas more noticeable as its had paint in places. I cant get the faded paint to stop being pinkish. I'm using Maguire compound and polish, any tips?
the paint is faded but the paint is below the clearcoat. So polishing cannot fix the faded paint. Only single stage faded paintwork can be improved by polishing.
@@ForensicDetailing Thank you, I was afraid of that, thanks for your response. Love your informative vids
Great video Jon as always, I’ve recently got a Maserati Quattroporte GT S in black, has anyone any idea how soft the paint is? Looking to swirl remove and minor scratches, normally use mernzernas 3in1 and orange pads on my blue for truck or the misses fiat! Any ideas or tips anyone? Again thanks for the video Jon 👌👌👌👌
Forgot to mention I’m using a vertool force drive DA
not sure but I would guess soft. someone will know and reply hopefully.
Hi John firstly I think your videos and information to us is brilliant easy to understand great job always useful, however I think I have for myself in a muddle hope you can help. I did my farther in-laws car for him and did a 1stage paint correction on his car using school S 20 then put the Russo wax on top,the cheaper one. Got a great result and he was over the moon,when I got home I couldn’t help thinking should I have put a sealant on before the wax,if so could you recommend one for me.or do I have to put a sealant on or can I just put a sealant on without the wax I am I bit confused steve
hey karen.. It depends.. if the durability of the wax product is like 3-6 months, and the durability of the sealant is 3-6 months.. then layering is a bit pointless. also putting like a solvent based wax ontop of a sealant while the wax vaporizes and cures can literally destory the sealant (in some cases) so just make sure if you are combo or layering products they are compatible.. use systems from manufacturers that are designed to be layered. If in doubt just use one main product product and layer with a water based spray wax or detail spray.
Thanks John very helpful as always cheers
Not "Under the hood", Under the bonnet.
whenever I say under the bonnet I get guys saying its under the hood!
Cold over here in Detroit, MI too, Jon! Single digits last night, and currently 23° at 5:16pm. Trying to ONR wash the gf's truck... Gonna need to turn on the heater...
Continental climate problems... damn !! and you are near canada too
@@dimmacommunication - Indeed!
I see in SEMA quite a few detailers wishing for Koch Chemie polishes. Not sure if they are here in Australia but they look impressive. Do you use these much compared to Scholls, Sonax and others????
koch are my favorite compounds really. so yes mate.
@@ForensicDetailing Thank you for your honest reply.
I’ve been using a DAS6 Pro for a few years now but am keen to move on to a forced rotation polisher. In2detailing list their own forced rotation DA, have you any idea how this compares to the Flex 3401 that you’re using?
Edit: Disregard, I’m now watching your product review of that very polisher! 🤦🏻♂️
they dont sell that any more Joely, but you can get the vertool if you want the cheap option. I think it was the same basically. whatever tool you buy have a think about plate sizes and pads and what you might combo the machine with.
why didnt you use a lighter compound such as KC F5 or sonax perfect finish to remove the marring ? i though that the KC H9 was a bit over kill.
F6 may have done it. H9 possible overkill yes.
@@ForensicDetailing . ive not used F6 yet. love the KC range though, love the content of your video. keep up the good work
What's the small polisher called?
John I did my car for the first time with scholl S30 using the passing method with my DAs 6 pro , I thought it had turned out ok, I parked under strong lighting the other night and noticed that same one heavy circular mark on the bonnet that you had (you called it a schoolboy error). My bonnet was resprayed and I take it that the clear coat isn’t as hard. Can this mark be removed and if so the best product to get rid of it. Or are the products you have used in this vid the best for the job? Thanks in advance
so it sounds like you have put that swirl in your paint yourself. If its just one big noticable arc swirl that it could be a bit of grit. If theres tons of it, then its machine marring. Yes if you have really soft paint and hard pads and more agressive compaounds you can put in machine marring. So really the solution for you steve. Inspect the paint properly when its inside somewhere. the sealey LCM360 i think its called (the torch you see me use) is superb for this. If you have just one piece individual swirl just go again with S30 and a soft pad.. if you spot loads then step down to a finer abrasive and a softer pad.
Forensic Detailing Channel thanks I have strong lighting, but I think it’s just the one.
So Jon, what's the best technique for polishing the concave surfaces. I was doing my mothers VW Fox (I know) that we bought her with loads of scratches from a hedge. The lower sides of the car are concave and of course the pad does not sit flat on the surface of the panel so how do you get into those areas best?
yes, so smaller pads.. and softer pads can help.. stiff cone pads can stall out in concave.. crank up speed a bit as well to help reduce stall.
@@ForensicDetailing Thanks Jon, that's pretty much what I did really and the results came out pretty good, I just wondered if there was some trick or other. I found that when I fitted the smaller pad and backing plate to my Das 6 Pro (Purchased as recommended in your vid) that the vibrations were huge. You did mention fitting a different balance weight but there wasn't one in the Das 6 kit. Do you know where these can be found?
Nice
There is no serious review on liquid elements a1000 in english, i am considering buying 1. but would like to hear your opinion on it!?
id be interested to check it out as well deje, theres a few issues with it at the moment though Im not sure whats going on. but hopefully I can borrow one.
What was the temperature in the shed?
I struggle to get that much time before flashing as I'm in Perth Australia where today it's a lazy 37° C
very cold yer makes a big difference.
Is there any real difference in correction between forced rotation and da just correction not counting plate stall
imo yes. you can work abrasives a bit harder with the forced rotation, with the DA you cant really utilise the pressure so well without introducing stall. Even though stall is expected, it effects performance or distance travelled is reduced when you loose the spin. when using finishing polishes to gloss up paint or take our fine marring it doesnt really matter... but with cutting it makes a noticable difference.. at least for me. I notice it more if Im taking out swirls and using a free spinning DA I cant get the correction on the edges so much.
Is this Flex 8mm? I just bought Dino Kraft Paket 9mm 650w 150mm ( under 90 dollars and very good reviews) and i find i need more than 9mm. Have you looked into Dino Kraft Paket polishers yet?
I have no looked at these no first time ive heard of them I check.. flex is 8mm offset yes mate
@@ForensicDetailing Very cheap and winning tests in europe. They make 9,15,21mm please make review
I won’t use a forced rotation after a rotary
going again :D
I hope I'm not being improper by not commenting on this particular video, but I got to know will there be followup postings for the Clubsport Project?
for sure.. and check "forensic unplugged" for lots of clubsport content
@@ForensicDetailing Thank You.
Koch m3. 02 leaves residue alter polishing im very disapointed. Koch h8 is very good... i havent tryed h9 yet
not sure I understand dave. you mean like when you do the wipe downs after using M3 you cant get all the polish off to a nice clear product free finish?
@@ForensicDetailing yes
@@davidsosnak2968 can't go wrong with H8.02. Only takes me two passes on my ford to correct it. A finishing polish doesn't even add significantly more gloss to the paint so just shows how great this stuff is. Probably a 2 in 1
@@zaink7037 have you tryed h9 comoared to h8? I wonder if its any better
@@davidsosnak2968 I believe it has a little more cutting power but heard its a improvement to the H8
Oh yes
Jon, i'd like to ask a random question, where did you get your little stool from, for doing the low down jobs, i'm sure there are many of us old gits with dodgy knee's on here that would be interested. Also with your Koch Chemie products, do you now favour H9 and M302 over H8 and M201 or are you just testing them, with them being fairly new products.
Slims mate, its been solid and its cheap-ish (35 quid)
Cheers mate, think i know what else i might be getting for Christmas !! :-)
Live nose blowing. With vibrations lol
sorry I have like some sinus problem I think always like get gunky eyes and sniffy.. Its horrible :)
@@ForensicDetailing Its not a problem for me. Educational, informative and entertaining videos Jon. Was taking advantage of being 4th comment and thats all i could come up with. Suggest hot toddy/whiskey plenty of honey and lemon in it.
Hey, thanks once again for all the tips! Did my first round and try on an old Mercedez that hasnt moved in 6 years outside and we got it running again so thought I had a try polishing half the hood to see sone result and i had crazy dusting with the Koch Chemie H9 and Hex yellow pad... was really curious why? And all the deffects didnt go away it feels like suuuper hard paint and impossible to polish! Managed to get good clarity back and way brighter paint but scratches still present so would it be too deep scratches maybe? If ever you want pics could send them to you via instagram 😉 thanks for the advice! Always appreciate it
Welcome to the joy of polishing Mercedes Scratch Proof paint. Its hard work mate. But Koch H9 should not be dusting its a really oily compound and low dusting. Make sure to clean out the pad properly after each set and dont try and overwork or force it too much.
Forensic Detailing Channel ohhh i see so Mercedez is bullet proof almost 😂😂.. well i do 3-4 pass’s put a good amount of product (4-5 big dots) and speed 4 and right after 1-2nd pass a lot of dusting so i was thinking maybe the clear coat over it so old or sonthing it grinded right though it 🤷🏼♂️ and even with new pad was dusting. I definitely brushed my pad with a soft toothbrush after each set! It is old paint as mentio and has deep maring as well probably also why so difficult bit sure but keen on trying other than mercedez to see the rests how it will hold up
Jon what dilution ratio do you use for your IPA and what brand do you recommend?
Cheers
bonnymans 99 prf IPA. use 2.5% surfex HD 25% IPA 72.5% water roughly.
@@ForensicDetailing Interesting... Surfex HD doesn't leave anything to the paint? I would maybe add little bit ONR to the mix, just in case...
💙
I feel pity for you mom. I am almost a 100% certain that you were born with a polisher in your hands. 😂😂😂