Excellent project. Very unusually high standard of thought gone into design, software and implementation especially for a single maker. You have my respect.
Now that is a really cool project. I like that it has many of the same functions and controls that one would find on a PACE soldering station. Amazed at the size of it. Perfect for small bench space or on the go. If you built these... I'd buy 'em. Look forward to trying to make one.
Thanks. I wanted to make it simple and easier to make specially for others, I've actually made a version double sided pcb board and smd components, but that's harder to make, especially soldering the smd components on the board like atmega328 microcontroller and a pcb without soldermask it makes the job even harder, not many are willing to make it.
Thank you for sharing the project and congratulations to the creator! There is great satisfaction in starting a soldering station, which is probably a better solution than buying a ready-made soldering station.
Uau, fantastic! Great that it is all THT components, not like Unisolder requiring microscopic work. The only thing I'm somewhat sceptical about is using header pinconnector for main power transfer.
Thanks! You're not the only one that it's concerned about using the pinheaders to connect the two boards together especially the pins that transfer power to the heater, but I guarantee you that there is no problem, the pins are thick enough and the connection is strong enough for this. The amount of current it draws when the tip is heating up is around 2A but after the tip is up to the temperature it draws only a a few hundred mA, 200 to 600mA to maintain the temperature.
Awesome project. A potential improvement is to include/enable a USB-C in PD/QC/AFC Fast Charge Decoy Trigger that Supports 20V Fixed Voltage Output. I'm going to hack an equivalent Ali express charger to make mine USB powered. That sai,d I love your project. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. Hmm, I actually have a few little USB-C PD trigger boards, the IC used is IP2721 they are quite neat and integrate a lot a staff in those chips and they also supports fixed voltages 5, 9, 12, 15 and 20V, I used one of these when I made the digital soldering iron based on the same schematic and firmware. I totally forgot about those, that will be a nice feature to have barrel jack connector and USB-C, I already made a version of this soldering station with smd components that includes everything on one single board, I'm thinking right now to revisit that project and include USB-C PD as well.
Really nice project. I did the V3 version, did find yet some component locally, will be ordering to test it. V3 is just superbad(cool) but this is on top.
Great work! I'd love to see you take this to the next level and use all your own components. Adding an microprocessor to your board directly is not difficult and gives you a huge amount of additional flexibility. Using some large, easy to solder surface mount components and a professional PCB should allow you to fix everything on a single board, which would be awesome to see :)
Thanks! I already made it before I've made this one but I didn't make a video about it because I didn't like how the 3D printed case came out and the pcb is a bit larger than this about 7x10cm, but I want to remake it to be smaller as this one wich the pcb size is 5x7cm and use same case with some modifications to it. On that version everything is with smd components and includes everything on one single board, and uploading the firmware or updating it is simply by connecting the USB cable from pc to the board, and another thing is that instead of rotary encoder I used buttons for this version. Anyway I will see how it goes and maybe I will make a video and share everything.
Nice projects my friend, Cheers from a German Brazilian Buddy. I really want to get into electronics. I'm mechanical engineer, but electronics is something I know very little
Thank you. Electronics are really awesome once you start understanding how it works and what each component do but it take time to learn all of that. Nowadays we have all the information at our disposal only whith one click, it is much easier to learn than 15+ ago, but practice is needed as well and I recommend one step at the time, start with the small project and then advance a little and so on.
Lol i am suprised how much simillar your design is...i am working on something , way you made pin header and pin bar together as connection through boards ...wow ...I did it the same way because i saw this wafering like style layerboard system in some nasa control systems...wonderful bro
I'm sorry, but looking at the diagram, I don't understand which are the pins of the thermocouple and which are the ones of the resistance. I see labeled as P+ and SW. I suppose P+ is from the resistance since it is the pin activated by the MOSFET, but I also see that it is connected to the thermocouple amplifier.
From what I see, the T12 tips do not have separate pins for the thermocouple. So I understand that the measurement is made on the resistance itself. So it is not useful for my type of soldering iron. According to what I found, it is called 907, a clone of 7 pins.
The temperature measurement and powering the heater are made on the same line ( P+ and P- ), T12 tips have the thermocouple and the heater in series, not separated, that's why the thermocouple amplifier connected to the P+ as well.
Hello, how do you find out the temperature from Letcon? if you only use two wires from the probe. + - pentur resistance but thermistor the heat sensor why don't you use it?
Directly alike! how beautiful! I've tried this before and it failed maybe try again like here in the video! (Thank you for sharing!) Healthy and friendly greetings from the Netherlands! Rob
Hi Rob, thanks for the greetings. I did my best to make it as it is and it's working without any problems. But as I mentioned in the video, when I made the schematic I used 2N2222 for Q1 and then I've changed the name to BC337 but the footprint remained from the 2N2222. So if you want to make it put the BC337 backwards. It given me a lot a headaches until I figured out why wasn't working and the mosfet was getting hot. Later I will update the files.
i have to rebuild my lab i lost everything. thank you a lot im going with this diy job as my main iron and ill cad upp the files to add it to my diy lab bench power suppl6y....Keep up the great work ya got my sub \
Sorry to hear that, I hope this will help you with your projects and I wish you the best rebuilding your lab. Thanks for watching and your subscription!
maybe try changing the Arduino nana with a pi pico since nanos are more expensive than picos these days, and with that you can have a higher resolution adc, and maybe even RTC on there like the stm t12 stations
That's a good idea, or maybe stm32f401 they are quite cheap as well, I'll see maybe I will make a new version, I have some good ideas and suggestions from you guys to further improve this station. Thanks!
This is a very interesting project, I would love to buy such a DIY kit for self-assembly, think about distribution ✌️ The only problem in my opinion is the lack of an aluminum radiator or extra mini ventilator for the mosfet at the time of heating the tip, a lot of energy must be released on it and it can be a problem for it 🙃
I shared all the files if you want to make it, don't need to buy it 😉. There is absolutely no need to use a heatsink or a cooling fan, the mosfet stays at the room temperature all the time, when the mosfet is switched on at gate is 18V so the mosfet is fully opened, it has very little resistance and no heat dissipation.
Has anyone built one of these? Do I need to buy a specific version of Nano for the code to work on it? How exactly does the Tip Calibration work? What solder handle do we need to use this?
Hi. The Arduino Nano already has 5V regulator integrated but being linear regulator if the input voltage is 19V the power dissipation will be around 0.7W, it not seems much but is enough that the regulator to run quite hot, so I use the Mini360 buck converter to reduce the voltage from 19 to 7. You can use CN3903 but being 5 V the output of the AMS1117 from arduino board will be around 4V, you can bypass the regulator connecting the 5V to 5V pin on the arduino board not Vin pin.
You seem to be running the power for the iron through those 2.54 mm headers, they aren’t made to handle much current. If that is the case then you should swap them for a better connector. Edit: you may be fine since from what I can find the connectors are rated up to 3 A but you are definitely cutting it close. How much current goes to the iron?
There is no problem using pin headers they are thick enough and connection between them is strong enough to handle up to 3A as you said, at 20V it draws around 2A until it reaches the set temperature and after that it draws only 200 to 600mA to maintain the temperature of the tip.
@@HMProjects it depends on whether you bought them from a reliable source and brand or just bought the cheapest you could find. Cheap ones may have a current capacity of less than 2A
@@conorstewart2214 they are quite good quality, If I remember correctly the brand it's Glarks or something like that, I bought them from Amazon and the price was around 13 euros, I'm not sure if is a good brand or not but they look okay.
Wow, this is awesome, definetlly my next project. I am currently working on arduino digital bench power supply with tft display. Does only works with t12 soldering tip or I can connect standard 5 pin 852D+ iron to it?
Thanks. I don't think it will work with the iron from that station, the T12 tips have the thermocouple in series with the heater and on that iron from 852D the thermocouple is separated.
update, my pin d10 arduino some how broke, replace to d11 and working, but when im not insert the tip and handle why it keep show tip selection like when tip inserted ? this keep happen, already check every solder and nothing short, like detectiom of tip inserted broke
Hello there! How easy would it be to convert this to USB-C PD input using a trigger board ? Looked at some of the schematics and shouldn’t be hard, but the part that worries me is the voltage reading and if that would get thrown off
Hi. It's actually quite easy by simply connecting the USB-C module to the power input of the soldering station. It will not affect the voltage reading, it will simply show the voltage level that the USB-C module it negotiates with the charger or powerbank. I actually made a soldering iron based on the same schematic and firmware with USB-C PD2.0 trigger board, look on my channel and you'll find the video.
I built it but for some reason vibration switch doesnt do anything, when enters the sleep mode, shaking handle doesnt do anything, even tried directly to pull down D10 pin to ground, as vibration switch should do, but still nothing. What can be the problem?
Did you have soldered correctly the pull-up resistor R14? First thought when you said vibration switch was there mey be the problem because with vibration switch it will not work properly, the handel should have tilt switch ( ball switch ) but if said that you pulled-down directly the D10 pin and doesn't work. I only can see three possible problems, the pull-up resistor is damaged or not soldered correctly, D10 pin damaged on the arduino board ( try it on breadboard if you have another arduino available ), and lastly it may be the code, maybe you did something in the code and changed the pin assignment by mistake. I can't se elsewhere the problem, I build 4 versions of this soldering station and even a soldering iron and all worked well for me, I had no problem exiting the sleep mode.
@@HMProjects Thank you for reply, seems that D10 digital input is damaged on my board, i have switched to D11 and changed in code, and now it works, idk why this digital pin doesn't work, it is a brand new board, maybe it has something to do with bootloader or something?
@@meax7180 I suppose you're not having a original arduino, those clone boards have also ATmega328 microcontroller clones, some works without a problem some of them doesn't, I have some Nano boards that analog pins A1, A2 doesn't work properly, I'm not sure what may cause the problem, it may be the bootloader or is just the chip itself. Anyway, I'm glad I could help you and you solved the problem.
Great project! Will you redesign because the FET is too heat when you switch on the circuit? I recommend you use the PCB soder side for cooling, or a small heat sink. What is the maximum temperature of the FET when you switch on with solder?
@@HMProjects Thanks, it is a good news, that the mosfet is cold when you use. I want to use it for my weller wsp-80, this schematics is good for it? Can I calibrate it for my device?
Assuming that you use the pcb that I provided there are a few things to check. First check if the Mini360 correct orientation, maybe by mistake you put it backwards. Second, check the output voltage from the Mini360, it should set to around 7V when you powering everything from 12 or 19V. Verify if everything soldered well and have a good connection.
Hello! Yes, it should be electrolytic capacitor rated for at least 35V, this capacitor ( C13 ) should be between 0.1uF and 1uF, in case if the temperature displayed is not stable, play around with the capacitor value and see which one works best for you.
That is sooo much better than some of those Ebay Yihua clone soldering stations! What about adding a PIR motion sensor so you can reset the sleep timer when you are at your work area?
Thanks! I don't know if that's a good idea using the PIR sensor and every time you walk in front front of the work area it goes out of the sleep, better using it as it is or even better using same system as JBC as someone suggested here in the comments section.
It works with 12V, the only downside is that it will take longer to heat up the tip and will have less power, at 24V the tip has around 70W but at 12V will have half off that. As of matter of fact I'm only using it with 19V.
Me encantó su video gracias, seria tan amable de decirme si, el sensor para leer la temperatura es un termoacuple ? Gracias espero pueda aclarar esa duda que tengo. Gracias nuevamente y espero su respuesta.
Hello my friend, i have some questions after read comment. Can i replace the tilt switch by a vibration switch ? ( I read the ino file and the code mention both of them ) My T12 handle doesn't have the tilt switch. I bought a new tilt switch but i don't know how to connect it correctly to my T12 handle. The tilt switch has 2 wire. Your soldering station has the GX16-4pin , the P- and E are soldering together so i think the first wire of the tilt switch will connect with SW and the second wire will connect with P- and E. Is that right ? And can we do it similar to 5 pin T12 handle. Your PCB have 3 line out, 1 for SW, 1 for P+ and 1 for P- and E which are soldering together, 5 pin T12 handle have SW, P+, P-, P-, E so to use 5pin T12 handle, should i soldering P-, P- and E together and connect them with P- and E on your PCB ?( Sorry for my bad English grammar and vocabulary ). Thank you so much!
I was watching Stefan Wagner version. ''To make the soldering station ESD-safe, connect the earth (E) terminal of the aviator plug to a female dupont connector and glue it into the corresponding opening on the case." He don't soldering P- and E together like you so if i make it like you, can the electric from (E) will spread into the ground ?
I have printed the PCB using the Garber file that you provide at jlcpcb. but when I assembled all the components it still wouldn't turn on... can you please help me?
@@Muskad Hi, sorry to hear that. Check all the jumper wires to soldered, verify with a multimeter the voltage at the imput of the Mini360 and the output and see if you have whatever your power supply voltage has and respectively 7V on the output, and lastly verify the pin VCC pin from Arduino Nano to have 5V, and from here you can figure it out where may be the problem. After you verify all off those and and still is not turning on, I will try to help you out further.
on the mini360 the input is 19v and at the output there is no voltage at all and I have tried adjusting it but there is still no voltage... but at the pin of the mini360 IC there are 2 voltages 19v and 5v... the 5v voltage stops at the pin of the IC..
I've fixed the output, and 5v has appeared... then I tried turning it on and it worked but only for a moment then a line appeared on the screen then it turned off and the light on the Arduino also turned on standby. now the condition is off again but the 5v is still there... and on the screen pins vcc, scl, sda no voltage appears.. Am I still soldering wrong?
@@Muskad if you have another Mini360 power it up and set the output to 7V before soldering it on the board, and another thing is to check after you power the soldering station the ATmega328 microcontroller on the Arduino board to see if is becoming very warm or hot, if it does the is defective. Another thing, the OLED display that I used it has the pins ( from left to right ) VCC, GND, SCL, SDA but others have GND, VCC, SCL, SDA verify this thing as well because if that is the case it puts everything in short circuit and potentially damage the display.
Thank you for watching. I know, sorry about that 😂. I realize that when I edited the video but I was not willing to film the clip again and I didn't want to put music over it as well. Look on the bright side, it keeps you awake if you watch video late at night 😂.
Yes you can use 0.96 inch display, but you have to change in the code the display you want to use by comment/uncomment using "//" at the lines 173-174 at the moment is like this, //U8GLIB_SSD1306_128x64... U8GLIB_SH1106_128x64... change it to U8GLIB_SSD1306_128x64... //U8GLIB_SH1106_128x64... It will work without a problem.
@@HMProjects Thank you, I have one more question, Can I replace Capacitor C8 (2nF) with 2 1nF capacitors? because I don't have a 2nF capacitor. Thank you
Do you happen to know the name of that screw-on connector? I need a 3 prong version for a power supply but I cand find any that aren't for audio equipment.
A few people asked me the same thing and I'm not sure if it will work and the reason for that is that the T12 tips have thermocouple in series with the heater and the temperature measurement is made on the same line. If the T210 or C210 tips has the thermocouple in series with the heater as well, I see no reason why shouldn't not work.
Приветствую. Подскажите, почему энкодер не реагирует на вращение (энкодер рабочий) и при отключенной ручки паяльника не выводится ошибка. Заранее спасибо.
Good morning, I have the same situation, after connecting the soldering iron, it is detected and the temperature can be adjusted, but after pressing the encoder, the software freezes and no selection can be made, only reset remains. What could be the reason? To be sure, I uploaded the software again, but it didn't help. Regards and sorry for any spelling errors.
Today I managed to solve the problem with the inability to select encoder settings. It was enough to reduce the power supply on the Step-Down converter. I came up with it because it worked properly when powered from the USB socket, but after connecting the 19V power supply the problem occurred.
I love your project to be true :). What's the Watt output of this station if I can ask, please? :) I've got a lot of TV cases and wouldn't need to 3d print even, can use them instead. The only downside of the plastic small case is that it's not that stable. Other than that, this device looks great :). I've got 1 DIY from Aliexpress with T12 as well and love it, really cheap. But, when I've notice your one, I'd like to make one if it's a 60W at least. No point for me to build less than that.
Thanks. The T12 tips are around 70W, but it depends on the voltage that you power the station. Of course you can make the case from whatever materials you have or want, 3D printed case is optional and for me this was the best option.
@@HMProjects I've got here resin 3d printer and no time to play with it :D, but as I've got too many cases from cracked screen TVs, it's nice to reuse them rather than just throw them away, or take them to the recycling center which I have to do. I can save on printing this way. Thank you for the clarification, so the T12 has it's own power, my understanding of this was wrong then. That's good to know :). My station uses my bench power supply and the max it takes with T12 is around 24V with about 2 amps on 480C which is max. So, will check next time and might be around 2.5A max then.
is there somewhere I can buy the pcb or just send the gerber files to pcbway or some other pcb company and have them make it? Asking because i would rather support you and buy from you than make some big company more money,
Hi thanks. I don't have the pcb boards for sale but I shared all the files including the Gerber files if you want to have them professionally made. Great way to support me is watch my videos and subscribe to my channel or to support my on my Patreon page. Thanks again!
Hmm you could make them into " modules" that have contacts to communicate with a controller to set them remotely (and can be expanded down the road as well)
Thanks. I'm not sure since I don't have such tips, it may work with proper modification. On this station temperature measurement is made on the same line because on T12 tips have the heater and the thermocouple in series, I believe on the c210 tips is the same, if not is necessary to modify the circuit. Although it will be nice to work with those tips.
Successfully I have also make this circuit.I am not understanding how to calibration works.Please make a video about it as soon as possible. Thanks in advance
Excellent project. Very unusually high standard of thought gone into design, software and implementation especially for a single maker. You have my respect.
Now that is a really cool project. I like that it has many of the same functions and controls that one would find on a PACE soldering station. Amazed at the size of it. Perfect for small bench space or on the go. If you built these... I'd buy 'em. Look forward to trying to make one.
Beautiful ❤️
Well managed and I love single side pcb design!
Thanks. I wanted to make it simple and easier to make specially for others, I've actually made a version double sided pcb board and smd components, but that's harder to make, especially soldering the smd components on the board like atmega328 microcontroller and a pcb without soldermask it makes the job even harder, not many are willing to make it.
@@HMProjects I prefer this version very cool project to make :) schematic is clear and easy to understand by a newbie like me :)
Thank you for sharing the project and congratulations to the creator! There is great satisfaction in starting a soldering station, which is probably a better solution than buying a ready-made soldering station.
You even DIY'd the circuit board. This is like a Jedi building his own lightsaber, except without the cool effects.
Uau, fantastic!
Great that it is all THT components, not like Unisolder requiring microscopic work.
The only thing I'm somewhat sceptical about is using header pinconnector for main power transfer.
Thanks! You're not the only one that it's concerned about using the pinheaders to connect the two boards together especially the pins that transfer power to the heater, but I guarantee you that there is no problem, the pins are thick enough and the connection is strong enough for this. The amount of current it draws when the tip is heating up is around 2A but after the tip is up to the temperature it draws only a a few hundred mA, 200 to 600mA to maintain the temperature.
Love the detail with the "noise" on the screen at startup :) (like on old days analog B&W TV sets)
That was not intentional 🙂
Nice attention to details, love the idea of mounting the shell to the standoffs of the internal cage.❤ Going to steal this :)
amazing DIP component version
very cool design
all the best
Thanks!
Awesome project. A potential improvement is to include/enable a USB-C in PD/QC/AFC Fast Charge Decoy Trigger that Supports 20V Fixed Voltage Output. I'm going to hack an equivalent Ali express charger to make mine USB powered. That sai,d I love your project. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. Hmm, I actually have a few little USB-C PD trigger boards, the IC used is IP2721 they are quite neat and integrate a lot a staff in those chips and they also supports fixed voltages 5, 9, 12, 15 and 20V, I used one of these when I made the digital soldering iron based on the same schematic and firmware. I totally forgot about those, that will be a nice feature to have barrel jack connector and USB-C, I already made a version of this soldering station with smd components that includes everything on one single board, I'm thinking right now to revisit that project and include USB-C PD as well.
Really nice project. I did the V3 version, did find yet some component locally, will be ordering to test it. V3 is just superbad(cool) but this is on top.
Great work! I'd love to see you take this to the next level and use all your own components. Adding an microprocessor to your board directly is not difficult and gives you a huge amount of additional flexibility. Using some large, easy to solder surface mount components and a professional PCB should allow you to fix everything on a single board, which would be awesome to see :)
Thanks! I already made it before I've made this one but I didn't make a video about it because I didn't like how the 3D printed case came out and the pcb is a bit larger than this about 7x10cm, but I want to remake it to be smaller as this one wich the pcb size is 5x7cm and use same case with some modifications to it. On that version everything is with smd components and includes everything on one single board, and uploading the firmware or updating it is simply by connecting the USB cable from pc to the board, and another thing is that instead of rotary encoder I used buttons for this version. Anyway I will see how it goes and maybe I will make a video and share everything.
@@HMProjects Sounds awesome. Would love to see it!
Nice projects my friend, Cheers from a German Brazilian Buddy. I really want to get into electronics. I'm mechanical engineer, but electronics is something I know very little
Thank you. Electronics are really awesome once you start understanding how it works and what each component do but it take time to learn all of that. Nowadays we have all the information at our disposal only whith one click, it is much easier to learn than 15+ ago, but practice is needed as well and I recommend one step at the time, start with the small project and then advance a little and so on.
I have not seen your channel before. I like this project a lot. I will eventually build it and see if I can make it work. You earned a subscriber. :D
Wow, so many settings!
Lol i am suprised how much simillar your design is...i am working on something , way you made pin header and pin bar together as connection through boards ...wow ...I did it the same way because i saw this wafering like style layerboard system in some nasa control systems...wonderful bro
Отличный проект, однозначно за труды ЛАЙК !!!!
I'm sorry, but looking at the diagram, I don't understand which are the pins of the thermocouple and which are the ones of the resistance. I see labeled as P+ and SW. I suppose P+ is from the resistance since it is the pin activated by the MOSFET, but I also see that it is connected to the thermocouple amplifier.
From what I see, the T12 tips do not have separate pins for the thermocouple. So I understand that the measurement is made on the resistance itself. So it is not useful for my type of soldering iron. According to what I found, it is called 907, a clone of 7 pins.
The temperature measurement and powering the heater are made on the same line ( P+ and P- ), T12 tips have the thermocouple and the heater in series, not separated, that's why the thermocouple amplifier connected to the P+ as well.
@@HMProjects so, i can not use your project. what a pitty. its really good.
Looks nice, I like that it's very compact.
This project looks so neat.
Thanks!
That is a true DIY project!
Exelente proyecto lo unico es que se me calienta demasiado el Mosfet del resto muy bien diceñado muchas gracias🙏🏻
Is it possible to use another soldering iron?
For example GORDAK and quick
This is amazing! Is SMD Rework Station planned in this format ?
Hello, how do you find out the temperature from Letcon? if you only use two wires from the probe. + - pentur resistance but thermistor the heat sensor why don't you use it?
Hi. The T12 tips have the thermocouple in series with the heater, so the temperature measurement is made on the same line.
@@HMProjects Thank you very much! Now I understand everything perfectly!!!
Great project. If use a battery from a 20V drill I think this may be nice portable soldering station.
hello sir, i have finish my build, but unfortunately my lcd oled not working (blank black screen), can you help me?? thanks
Directly alike! how beautiful!
I've tried this before and it failed
maybe try again like here in the video!
(Thank you for sharing!)
Healthy and friendly greetings from the Netherlands!
Rob
Hi Rob, thanks for the greetings. I did my best to make it as it is and it's working without any problems. But as I mentioned in the video, when I made the schematic I used 2N2222 for Q1 and then I've changed the name to BC337 but the footprint remained from the 2N2222. So if you want to make it put the BC337 backwards. It given me a lot a headaches until I figured out why wasn't working and the mosfet was getting hot. Later I will update the files.
Is the PCB layout size the same as version 3? I want to use the front PCB with version 3, because my handle is 5 pins.
i have to rebuild my lab i lost everything. thank you a lot im going with this diy job as my main iron and ill cad upp the files to add it to my diy lab bench power suppl6y....Keep up the great work ya got my sub
\
Sorry to hear that, I hope this will help you with your projects and I wish you the best rebuilding your lab. Thanks for watching and your subscription!
Wow this is absolutely amazing! Its so small! :p
Amazing work. I'm wondering how to do the calibration for this project.
maybe try changing the Arduino nana with a pi pico since nanos are more expensive than picos these days, and with that you can have a higher resolution adc, and maybe even RTC on there like the stm t12 stations
That's a good idea, or maybe stm32f401 they are quite cheap as well, I'll see maybe I will make a new version, I have some good ideas and suggestions from you guys to further improve this station. Thanks!
This is a very interesting project, I would love to buy such a DIY kit for self-assembly, think about distribution ✌️
The only problem in my opinion is the lack of an aluminum radiator or extra mini ventilator for the mosfet at the time of heating the tip, a lot of energy must be released on it and it can be a problem for it 🙃
I shared all the files if you want to make it, don't need to buy it 😉. There is absolutely no need to use a heatsink or a cooling fan, the mosfet stays at the room temperature all the time, when the mosfet is switched on at gate is 18V so the mosfet is fully opened, it has very little resistance and no heat dissipation.
Nice, thank you!
Welcome! Where can I get a soldering iron for this equipment? I have a Hakko 907, I don't think it's good for it?
Greetings: Attila
I always wanted custom t12 board. guess this is the one!
Wow, a brilliant project. Thanks
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
wow another excellent project here thank you!!
I need your help. I tried doing this but when I don't plug in T12 it doesn't show the error
Has anyone built one of these?
Do I need to buy a specific version of Nano for the code to work on it?
How exactly does the Tip Calibration work?
What solder handle do we need to use this?
what is the length for the pcb and oled spacers? also, configuration for printing the 3d case?
pls tell me looking for 2nf capacitor but not found alternative 2.2 capacitor can be used
what is the length and width?
of pcb
Very cool project, well done
Hello. Can I ask why you set the voltage regulator at 7v instead of 5v in this version. Is the 5v regulator CN3903 module can be used?
Hi. The Arduino Nano already has 5V regulator integrated but being linear regulator if the input voltage is 19V the power dissipation will be around 0.7W, it not seems much but is enough that the regulator to run quite hot, so I use the Mini360 buck converter to reduce the voltage from 19 to 7. You can use CN3903 but being 5 V the output of the AMS1117 from arduino board will be around 4V, you can bypass the regulator connecting the 5V to 5V pin on the arduino board not Vin pin.
Great work! Thank You for sharing!
Tanks for sharing. Great project 👍
Which soldering handle model are you using with the station ?
You seem to be running the power for the iron through those 2.54 mm headers, they aren’t made to handle much current. If that is the case then you should swap them for a better connector.
Edit: you may be fine since from what I can find the connectors are rated up to 3 A but you are definitely cutting it close. How much current goes to the iron?
There is no problem using pin headers they are thick enough and connection between them is strong enough to handle up to 3A as you said, at 20V it draws around 2A until it reaches the set temperature and after that it draws only 200 to 600mA to maintain the temperature of the tip.
@@HMProjects it depends on whether you bought them from a reliable source and brand or just bought the cheapest you could find. Cheap ones may have a current capacity of less than 2A
@@conorstewart2214 they are quite good quality, If I remember correctly the brand it's Glarks or something like that, I bought them from Amazon and the price was around 13 euros, I'm not sure if is a good brand or not but they look okay.
Wow, this is awesome, definetlly my next project. I am currently working on arduino digital bench power supply with tft display. Does only works with t12 soldering tip or I can connect standard 5 pin 852D+ iron to it?
Thanks. I don't think it will work with the iron from that station, the T12 tips have the thermocouple in series with the heater and on that iron from 852D the thermocouple is separated.
Does the termistor and vibration sensor are in handle or tip?
im build it but it cannot awake from sleep, even i shake the handle but it keep in sleep mode, why this happen ?
update, my pin d10 arduino some how broke, replace to d11 and working, but when im not insert the tip and handle why it keep show tip selection like when tip inserted ? this keep happen, already check every solder and nothing short, like detectiom of tip inserted broke
Hello,
It is compatible with Weller RT series tips? Of course with a suitable cable for the RT series-Tips!
Can it be used for T-12 and T-type solders And the T-936???
Hello there! How easy would it be to convert this to USB-C PD input using a trigger board ? Looked at some of the schematics and shouldn’t be hard, but the part that worries me is the voltage reading and if that would get thrown off
Hi. It's actually quite easy by simply connecting the USB-C module to the power input of the soldering station. It will not affect the voltage reading, it will simply show the voltage level that the USB-C module it negotiates with the charger or powerbank. I actually made a soldering iron based on the same schematic and firmware with USB-C PD2.0 trigger board, look on my channel and you'll find the video.
I built it but for some reason vibration switch doesnt do anything, when enters the sleep mode, shaking handle doesnt do anything, even tried directly to pull down D10 pin to ground, as vibration switch should do, but still nothing. What can be the problem?
Did you have soldered correctly the pull-up resistor R14? First thought when you said vibration switch was there mey be the problem because with vibration switch it will not work properly, the handel should have tilt switch ( ball switch ) but if said that you pulled-down directly the D10 pin and doesn't work. I only can see three possible problems, the pull-up resistor is damaged or not soldered correctly, D10 pin damaged on the arduino board ( try it on breadboard if you have another arduino available ), and lastly it may be the code, maybe you did something in the code and changed the pin assignment by mistake. I can't se elsewhere the problem, I build 4 versions of this soldering station and even a soldering iron and all worked well for me, I had no problem exiting the sleep mode.
@@HMProjects Thank you for reply, seems that D10 digital input is damaged on my board, i have switched to D11 and changed in code, and now it works, idk why this digital pin doesn't work, it is a brand new board, maybe it has something to do with bootloader or something?
@@meax7180 I suppose you're not having a original arduino, those clone boards have also ATmega328 microcontroller clones, some works without a problem some of them doesn't, I have some Nano boards that analog pins A1, A2 doesn't work properly, I'm not sure what may cause the problem, it may be the bootloader or is just the chip itself. Anyway, I'm glad I could help you and you solved the problem.
Très beau travail . Merci pour le partage
Great project! Will you redesign because the FET is too heat when you switch on the circuit? I recommend you use the PCB soder side for cooling, or a small heat sink. What is the maximum temperature of the FET when you switch on with solder?
Thanks. Is not need for a any kind of heatsink, the mosfet is cold as the room temperature when the soldering station is working.
@@HMProjects Thanks, it is a good news, that the mosfet is cold when you use. I want to use it for my weller wsp-80, this schematics is good for it? Can I calibrate it for my device?
I make this project homemade.. but for me, not working.. when give power for nano, still shut.. light not light up.. not turn on.. any idea?
Assuming that you use the pcb that I provided there are a few things to check.
First check if the Mini360 correct orientation, maybe by mistake you put it backwards.
Second, check the output voltage from the Mini360, it should set to around 7V when you powering everything from 12 or 19V.
Verify if everything soldered well and have a good connection.
Can schema v4 still use 0.96" OLED?
because the price of 1.3 "OLED is 2 times more expensive than 0.96" OLED
Yes, you can still use 0.96 inch display. You need to change in the code the line ( comment/uncomment) depending whatever display you choose to use.
Hello! For the 0.47uF capacitor, are there any requirements:
1. Should it be electrolytic?
2. Should it be tantalum?
Hello! Yes, it should be electrolytic capacitor rated for at least 35V, this capacitor ( C13 ) should be between 0.1uF and 1uF, in case if the temperature displayed is not stable, play around with the capacitor value and see which one works best for you.
@@HMProjects Thank you very much!
That is sooo much better than some of those Ebay Yihua clone soldering stations! What about adding a PIR motion sensor so you can reset the sleep timer when you are at your work area?
Thanks! I don't know if that's a good idea using the PIR sensor and every time you walk in front front of the work area it goes out of the sleep, better using it as it is or even better using same system as JBC as someone suggested here in the comments section.
Excelente! Por favor haz una para pistola desoldadora yihua 948g. Analoga y arduino.
i`m wondering, is there any way to power up with 12,5V? it will be really nice project to use portable with car battery in the field.
It works with 12V, the only downside is that it will take longer to heat up the tip and will have less power, at 24V the tip has around 70W but at 12V will have half off that. As of matter of fact I'm only using it with 19V.
Hello Your work is great If possible, put the PCB file and Altium schematic file for download
Very nice project, which is the max temperature of the station?
Me encantó su video gracias, seria tan amable de decirme si, el sensor para leer la temperatura es un termoacuple ? Gracias espero pueda aclarar esa duda que tengo. Gracias nuevamente y espero su respuesta.
Thank you! Yes, the T12 tips have thermocouple.
@@HMProjects muchas gracias, por ser tan amable en responderme.
how can i get soldering 4 holes or how convert 5 holes to 4 holes soldering iron
Great work. Keep it up 👍🏻
Thanks!
is there any way to add a stand with the option of sleep mode ?
Can i follow this or any change in this version i have ok with this version
Hello my friend, i have some questions after read comment. Can i replace the tilt switch by a vibration switch ? ( I read the ino file and the code mention both of them ) My T12 handle doesn't have the tilt switch. I bought a new tilt switch but i don't know how to connect it correctly to my T12 handle. The tilt switch has 2 wire. Your soldering station has the GX16-4pin , the P- and E are soldering together so i think the first wire of the tilt switch will connect with SW and the second wire will connect with P- and E. Is that right ? And can we do it similar to 5 pin T12 handle. Your PCB have 3 line out, 1 for SW, 1 for P+ and 1 for P- and E which are soldering together, 5 pin T12 handle have SW, P+, P-, P-, E so to use 5pin T12 handle, should i soldering P-, P- and E together and connect them with P- and E on your PCB ?( Sorry for my bad English grammar and vocabulary ). Thank you so much!
I was watching Stefan Wagner version. ''To make the soldering station ESD-safe, connect the earth (E) terminal of the aviator plug to a female dupont connector and glue it into the corresponding opening on the case." He don't soldering P- and E together like you so if i make it like you, can the electric from (E) will spread into the ground ?
i have problem with project do not stable between hold and heat not be stable at work message
How can I make it work with jbc c115
can i use LM358 instead MCP602?
I have printed the PCB using the Garber file that you provide at jlcpcb.
but when I assembled all the components it still wouldn't turn on...
can you please help me?
Can i send my board to you?
@@Muskad Hi, sorry to hear that. Check all the jumper wires to soldered, verify with a multimeter the voltage at the imput of the Mini360 and the output and see if you have whatever your power supply voltage has and respectively 7V on the output, and lastly verify the pin VCC pin from Arduino Nano to have 5V, and from here you can figure it out where may be the problem. After you verify all off those and and still is not turning on, I will try to help you out further.
on the mini360 the input is 19v and at the output there is no voltage at all and I have tried adjusting it but there is still no voltage...
but at the pin of the mini360 IC there are 2 voltages 19v and 5v... the 5v voltage stops at the pin of the IC..
I've fixed the output, and 5v has appeared... then I tried turning it on and it worked but only for a moment then a line appeared on the screen then it turned off and the light on the Arduino also turned on standby. now the condition is off again but the 5v is still there... and on the screen pins vcc, scl, sda no voltage appears.. Am I still soldering wrong?
@@Muskad if you have another Mini360 power it up and set the output to 7V before soldering it on the board, and another thing is to check after you power the soldering station the ATmega328 microcontroller on the Arduino board to see if is becoming very warm or hot, if it does the is defective. Another thing, the OLED display that I used it has the pins ( from left to right ) VCC, GND, SCL, SDA but others have GND, VCC, SCL, SDA verify this thing as well because if that is the case it puts everything in short circuit and potentially damage the display.
Do you sell these as a kit? I love it.
Excelent work!!!!
Great video. Thanks
(but turn off the buzzer next time. It killed my ears😂)
Thank you for watching. I know, sorry about that 😂. I realize that when I edited the video but I was not willing to film the clip again and I didn't want to put music over it as well. Look on the bright side, it keeps you awake if you watch video late at night 😂.
Can I use a 0.96 inch OLED screen instead of a 1.3 inch OLED screen?. Is it necessary to change the code?. Thanks
Yes you can use 0.96 inch display, but you have to change in the code the display you want to use by comment/uncomment using "//" at the lines 173-174 at the moment is like this,
//U8GLIB_SSD1306_128x64...
U8GLIB_SH1106_128x64...
change it to
U8GLIB_SSD1306_128x64...
//U8GLIB_SH1106_128x64...
It will work without a problem.
@@HMProjects Thank you, I have one more question, Can I replace Capacitor C8 (2nF) with 2 1nF capacitors? because I don't have a 2nF capacitor. Thank you
Do you happen to know the name of that screw-on connector? I need a 3 prong version for a power supply but I cand find any that aren't for audio equipment.
If you referring to that connector from the handle, it is GX16 connector or aviator connector.
@@HMProjects yes! thank you
Excelente trabalho amigo
Looks awesome 😎👍🏻 I want to build it)
Hello!
How many centimeters are the bronze columns
Does it need external temperature calibration with a thermometer or its good to upon first startup?
It will work just fine without calibration, but is better to calibrate it.
Perfect 🤩
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great job sir ...is it possible to make a T210 (JBC clone) with the sme circuit....?
A few people asked me the same thing and I'm not sure if it will work and the reason for that is that the T12 tips have thermocouple in series with the heater and the temperature measurement is made on the same line. If the T210 or C210 tips has the thermocouple in series with the heater as well, I see no reason why shouldn't not work.
Input method reminds me of an onion news joke about innovative keyboardless macbook xDD
Приветствую. Подскажите, почему энкодер не реагирует на вращение (энкодер рабочий) и при отключенной ручки паяльника не выводится ошибка. Заранее спасибо.
Good morning, I have the same situation, after connecting the soldering iron, it is detected and the temperature can be adjusted, but after pressing the encoder, the software freezes and no selection can be made, only reset remains. What could be the reason? To be sure, I uploaded the software again, but it didn't help. Regards and sorry for any spelling errors.
Today I managed to solve the problem with the inability to select encoder settings. It was enough to reduce the power supply on the Step-Down converter. I came up with it because it worked properly when powered from the USB socket, but after connecting the 19V power supply the problem occurred.
I love your project to be true :). What's the Watt output of this station if I can ask, please? :) I've got a lot of TV cases and wouldn't need to 3d print even, can use them instead. The only downside of the plastic small case is that it's not that stable. Other than that, this device looks great :).
I've got 1 DIY from Aliexpress with T12 as well and love it, really cheap. But, when I've notice your one, I'd like to make one if it's a 60W at least. No point for me to build less than that.
Thanks. The T12 tips are around 70W, but it depends on the voltage that you power the station. Of course you can make the case from whatever materials you have or want, 3D printed case is optional and for me this was the best option.
@@HMProjects I've got here resin 3d printer and no time to play with it :D, but as I've got too many cases from cracked screen TVs, it's nice to reuse them rather than just throw them away, or take them to the recycling center which I have to do. I can save on printing this way.
Thank you for the clarification, so the T12 has it's own power, my understanding of this was wrong then. That's good to know :).
My station uses my bench power supply and the max it takes with T12 is around 24V with about 2 amps on 480C which is max. So, will check next time and might be around 2.5A max then.
hello sir......I am having difficulty getting a 2nF capacitor, is there a similar replacement?
Hi, you can try a smaller or or bigger value like 1 nF or 4.7nF, I don't think it will be a problem.
@@HMProjectshow about 2.2nf ?
Excellent.
is there somewhere I can buy the pcb or just send the gerber files to pcbway or some other pcb company and have them make it? Asking because i would rather support you and buy from you than make some big company more money,
Hi thanks. I don't have the pcb boards for sale but I shared all the files including the Gerber files if you want to have them professionally made. Great way to support me is watch my videos and subscribe to my channel or to support my on my Patreon page. Thanks again!
Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome, and thanks for watching!
Hmm you could make them into " modules" that have contacts to communicate with a controller to set them remotely (and can be expanded down the road as well)
I think It can be done. But why do you want to do that?
@@HMProjects it was just a random thought 😄...
Excellent work. ❤️❤️Can we use c210 solderimg iron Tips in this soldering station? Thanks for sharing great project
Thanks. I'm not sure since I don't have such tips, it may work with proper modification. On this station temperature measurement is made on the same line because on T12 tips have the heater and the thermocouple in series, I believe on the c210 tips is the same, if not is necessary to modify the circuit. Although it will be nice to work with those tips.
Successfully I have also make this circuit.I am not understanding how to calibration works.Please make a video about it as soon as possible.
Thanks in advance
Nice info, thanks :)
nice
Thanks for the reply! I have seen these files. But I want to release professional PCBs. So can you provide the PCB files?
I probably share the Gerber files later on, first I have to make them.
@@HMProjects OK. I'll try to get them done on Altium as soon as possible.