❤ A Step-by-Step Course to Master Concrete Candle Making - theupvibe.com/the-winning-formula/ ❤ My Etsy Shop for Labels, Thank You & Candle Care Cards - upvibecreations.etsy.com ❤ Subscribe Now - tinyurl.com/2p9e5aph
Thank you for taking the time to make these very informative and entertaining videos. I have learned so much from you on my new cement all journey, and I cannot thank you enough! ❤
Cannot wait for this to drop! Currently battling tiny bubbles in a new mold that collect at the top of the mold and it weakens the bottom of the vessel.
Wow Super interesting and very informative! Thank you so much for your generosity 🤗 Quick question: how do you write your "Up Vibe" label on your creation? Like on the image of the anthracite grey jar at the 21:32 minute mark? Thank you 😊😊
Help! So I’m not making candle jars but other concrete crafts. And every time I add acrylic paint to make a marble effect it thickens the cement so much it’s really not pourable anymore. I know you said acrylic will do this. But am I adding too much? I’m not adding over 5%. Or should I add more water?? Or just pour faster?? Thanks! Your videos have been so helpful!
Oh my goodness - this video is amazing! Cement All was referred as a good agent for making stones for rock painting. I am so glad I found this video because 99% of the information was unknown to me. I don't make candles but do a lot of other stone fun work so thank you so much. New subscriber.
I have one question, please. Some minutes after pouring the cement into the molds, the surface starts to become watery, like the heavy cement goes to the bottom and the water stays more on surface. It spoils the bottom side of my products. One just cracked and had no more bottom, another just looks like bubbly somehow. What would be the problem for that water to come to the surface? I did mixed it very well, and for sure it wasnt’t too much water, just enough to make it liquid enough so I can pour it into my molds…
It sounds like you're dealing with "bleeding," where water rises to the surface of your cement molds, causing defects. This often happens due to an incorrect water-to-cement ratio or inadequate mixing. Even small variations in water can lead to bleeding, so try reducing the water slightly while keeping the mix pourable. Ensure thorough mixing for even distribution, possibly using a mechanical mixer. Check any additives you're using, as they can affect bleeding. Finer aggregates can also help reduce this issue. Make sure your molds are clean and smooth to aid in proper setting. After pouring, gently tap or vibrate the molds to release trapped air and help settle the mix. Ensure the molds are on a stable, level surface for even curing. By tweaking these factors, you should see better results in your concrete candle jars.
@@upvibecandle I didn’t get any bubbles, my products look very smooth and nice. I tap the cement before pouring it into my molds to release air. Only this problem with the water on the surface I have. I’ll try and test to see how much I can reduce the water for better results. Thank you for your quick and detailed answer, much appreciated! 🫶🏻
Thank you. I don't have a video on that but in theory the concept is similar to knowing the exact amount of candle wax one needs for a jar. So, if were doing it I would watch this video ruclips.net/video/vdm56Pl2KXI/видео.htmlsi=YG5Q-HIXfKYHJFy4. Then buy a refill mold from here by typing in refill in the search option www.boowannicole.com/UPVIBEEXCL and voila... I think you just gave me an idea for a video. 😁
To add to your bit about making demolding easier... Use air! You can essentially float a mold off of a part by blowing compressed air between the part and the mold. Also just curious, have you ever tried curing your parts in a pressure chamber at 50-60psi to further reduce any bubbles in your castings? This is a regular practice in the sfx industry for resins and silicones to compress any remaining tiny air pockets to near invisible, just curious how that would work for concrete.
@@cgjeff interesting I’ll look into it. As for the pressure chamber I don’t think that will work. Concrete needs hydration to harden. That’s why some perform water bathing.
Hi there. I'm glad I find your video. And thank you so m ch for it. I'm Foreigner, but you video created very easy to understand❤. Although I'm trying to work with the Gypsum Cement 😊
@@upvibecandle thank you ! In some of the silicone mold that I used sometimes the cement gets stuck on the mold and very difficult to release. Have you ever experience it? Lastly, How do you clean the mold after use?
@@forgeturazz No, that doesn't happen to me. Here are 2 videos to help clean your molds. ruclips.net/video/VyPd4nJStbE/видео.htmlsi=t-HUSxDS9dkqMC3L & ruclips.net/video/SZ4UBQt6zqo/видео.htmlsi=XVKOrYcvJMCF73_6
Do you guys sell the jars that have small air bubbles or small imperfections? I also get some with odd discoloration on my lids. Anyone could give me some tips Thanks in advance.
Hi Jai! I was wondering if you would be able to do a video testing the Brea Reese Mix2Mold Gloss Sealer and/or Matte Sealer for sealing concrete candle jars? It is sold at Michaels Craft Store. Thank you! Love your videos :D
From what I know, it's not heat resistant. It appears to be a craft sealer and because there is no detailed information highlighting it's ability to withstand high temps I would not use it. If I ever get enough sealers to do a video I will definitely add that one to the list. Thanks for sharing.
@@upvibecandle thank you Jai, I was a bit concerned because there's really no details about it. They also sell a jar mold making that says candles. I did reach out and they told me it was safe to put candles in so I'm not really sure but if you can add it to your list for a possible new testing video that would be awesome!
@@shiningstarsoup I can't imagine it's more economical to go that route. Are you just looking for options and that's it? Do you not like working with Cement All or hydrostone? Just curious.
@@upvibecandle Oh, no, I love working with Hydrostone. I wasn't looking to use their molding resin products, rather just the gloss sealer. Because I'm in Canada it is harder (and much more expensive) to get my hands on the sealers you recommend. I have been using Clarks Wax for my Hydrostone vessels and it has been working well for me, the Brea Reese looked like another option that I can get for cheaper.
Your discussion about curing makes me think you don't know what curing is and does. The purpose of curing is to strengthen the concrete. Once curing stops, the strength of the concrete is determined and cannot be increased. Demolding and allowing a project to dry out stops the curing process right then. A certain amount of water is used for forming the concrete paste. For strong finished project it is best to minimize the initial paste water, allow it to set, and then provide more water than is needed for the project to cure to maximum strength. That is why concrete projects are held in the form longer or demolded and submerged under water for several days (up to a month). I realize if you need to make a lot of bowls in a hurry that you will end up taking shortcuts, but if you aren't in a hurry, demold and immediately submerge the bowls for as long as is practical for you. Three days will give you 30% of the possible strength. Twenty-eight days will give you 90+% of possible strength. After that the strength improvement can take months or years, so 28 days is considered a practical end point for curing.
That is such a short sighted way of thinking. There are so many nuggets in that video that can be attributed to other products. And for that reason... I am out!
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
❤ A Step-by-Step Course to Master Concrete Candle Making - theupvibe.com/the-winning-formula/
❤ My Etsy Shop for Labels, Thank You & Candle Care Cards - upvibecreations.etsy.com
❤ Subscribe Now - tinyurl.com/2p9e5aph
I love your videos! They are SO HELPFUL!
Eureka!! Thank you for telling everyone to let it rest so the bubbles can self pop.
Big fan here! Thank you Jai for all the tips and tricks !!
Phenomenal. Love your vibe and energy!
You are educationaland way too funny😊
Thank you for taking the time to make these very informative and entertaining videos. I have learned so much from you on my new cement all journey, and I cannot thank you enough!
❤
Thank you for your lovely comment. I am happy that my work has helped you on your journey.
@@upvibecandle hey your "check out these videos" didn't pop up at the end. not sure if you can edit that. Great content as always!
I love water bathing. I let it bathe overnight 😂. It always comes out so much better for me. I love your videos. I learn so much!!
You rock. Thanks for the love.
Wow, man I just started making candles and this was such a huge help, and yer a very entertaining guy too. Thanks man.
Thank you for the amazing comment.
thank you for such precise information.
You are very welcome.
NICE! I'm excited about this one!
This was great! Thank you so much
14:25 compressed air
Cannot wait for this to drop! Currently battling tiny bubbles in a new mold that collect at the top of the mold and it weakens the bottom of the vessel.
are you using a vibrating machine when you pour?
Wow
Super interesting and very informative! Thank you so much for your generosity 🤗
Quick question: how do you write your "Up Vibe" label on your creation? Like on the image of the anthracite grey jar at the 21:32 minute mark?
Thank you 😊😊
@@stephanewanner3358 That’s custom made. Thanks for the love.
Help! So I’m not making candle jars but other concrete crafts. And every time I add acrylic paint to make a marble effect it thickens the cement so much it’s really not pourable anymore. I know you said acrylic will do this. But am I adding too much? I’m not adding over 5%. Or should I add more water?? Or just pour faster?? Thanks! Your videos have been so helpful!
You add more water, a few grams.
Oh my goodness - this video is amazing! Cement All was referred as a good agent for making stones for rock painting. I am so glad I found this video because 99% of the information was unknown to me. I don't make candles but do a lot of other stone fun work so thank you so much. New subscriber.
I always love when someone outside of candles come through. Thanks for the love. I truly appreciate it.
Would you put the jars in the oven to help them cure faster?
@@PrettywithDanii No, concrete hardens due to hydration and not because it dries.
@ ok I understand, thanks!
I have one question, please. Some minutes after pouring the cement into the molds, the surface starts to become watery, like the heavy cement goes to the bottom and the water stays more on surface. It spoils the bottom side of my products. One just cracked and had no more bottom, another just looks like bubbly somehow. What would be the problem for that water to come to the surface? I did mixed it very well, and for sure it wasnt’t too much water, just enough to make it liquid enough so I can pour it into my molds…
It sounds like you're dealing with "bleeding," where water rises to the surface of your cement molds, causing defects. This often happens due to an incorrect water-to-cement ratio or inadequate mixing. Even small variations in water can lead to bleeding, so try reducing the water slightly while keeping the mix pourable. Ensure thorough mixing for even distribution, possibly using a mechanical mixer.
Check any additives you're using, as they can affect bleeding. Finer aggregates can also help reduce this issue. Make sure your molds are clean and smooth to aid in proper setting. After pouring, gently tap or vibrate the molds to release trapped air and help settle the mix. Ensure the molds are on a stable, level surface for even curing. By tweaking these factors, you should see better results in your concrete candle jars.
@@upvibecandle I didn’t get any bubbles, my products look very smooth and nice. I tap the cement before pouring it into my molds to release air. Only this problem with the water on the surface I have. I’ll try and test to see how much I can reduce the water for better results. Thank you for your quick and detailed answer, much appreciated! 🫶🏻
@@mihaelaenache if this is Cement All and it continues take the bag back. Sometimes we receive bad batches.
@@upvibecandle Oh, I see, so this could be the case sometimes too. I’ll keep it in my mind. I use white cement, Blanco Plus 52,5 R
Hey!! Do you have any videos for how to make wax refills? or any suggestions on how to make them? Big fan
Thank you. I don't have a video on that but in theory the concept is similar to knowing the exact amount of candle wax one needs for a jar. So, if were doing it I would watch this video ruclips.net/video/vdm56Pl2KXI/видео.htmlsi=YG5Q-HIXfKYHJFy4. Then buy a refill mold from here by typing in refill in the search option www.boowannicole.com/UPVIBEEXCL and voila... I think you just gave me an idea for a video. 😁
Hi! Is your 4:1 ratio of cement-all to water by weight or by volume? I see you used a scale in one of your shots so I'm assuming by weight?
Correct.
Legend!
To add to your bit about making demolding easier... Use air! You can essentially float a mold off of a part by blowing compressed air between the part and the mold. Also just curious, have you ever tried curing your parts in a pressure chamber at 50-60psi to further reduce any bubbles in your castings? This is a regular practice in the sfx industry for resins and silicones to compress any remaining tiny air pockets to near invisible, just curious how that would work for concrete.
@@cgjeff interesting I’ll look into it. As for the pressure chamber I don’t think that will work. Concrete needs hydration to harden. That’s why some perform water bathing.
Hi there. I'm glad I find your video. And thank you so m ch for it. I'm Foreigner, but you video created very easy to understand❤. Although I'm trying to work with the Gypsum Cement 😊
do you use plasticizer?
No
Hi do you put any release agent on the silicon mold before you do your pour?
No, I do not.
@@upvibecandle thank you ! In some of the silicone mold that I used sometimes the cement gets stuck on the mold and very difficult to release. Have you ever experience it? Lastly, How do you clean the mold after use?
@@forgeturazz No, that doesn't happen to me. Here are 2 videos to help clean your molds. ruclips.net/video/VyPd4nJStbE/видео.htmlsi=t-HUSxDS9dkqMC3L & ruclips.net/video/SZ4UBQt6zqo/видео.htmlsi=XVKOrYcvJMCF73_6
Thank you for the information
Hi
Why does my cement crack even b4 unmolding at around 6 hours itself ?
(There was a crack on the middle like a line
ruclips.net/video/D5xfbieG-iY/видео.htmlsi=f67XvIc1oE532hYh
That bathtub pic...classic!
Do you guys sell the jars that have small air bubbles or small imperfections? I also get some with odd discoloration on my lids. Anyone could give me some tips Thanks in advance.
Hello, after mixing kick the bowl up and down to table.
Do you have a video about pigments.? What kind? Where to buy em? PLS🎉
There are links in the description that have pigments.
I have a lil trick up my sleeve that no one has ever thought about and it works so good. Pours like silk and no bubbles. Im anxious to see yours. 👍
I guarantee they have thought about it. They just aren’t sharing the information. Sound familiar?
@@upvibecandle lol you may be right, I’ll have to upload a video if I ever get the nerve up.
Don't be a dee-yick. Tell us
@@Tom-jp8clplease do share ?
Hi Jai! I was wondering if you would be able to do a video testing the Brea Reese Mix2Mold Gloss Sealer and/or Matte Sealer for sealing concrete candle jars? It is sold at Michaels Craft Store. Thank you! Love your videos :D
From what I know, it's not heat resistant. It appears to be a craft sealer and because there is no detailed information highlighting it's ability to withstand high temps I would not use it. If I ever get enough sealers to do a video I will definitely add that one to the list. Thanks for sharing.
@@upvibecandle thank you Jai, I was a bit concerned because there's really no details about it. They also sell a jar mold making that says candles. I did reach out and they told me it was safe to put candles in so I'm not really sure but if you can add it to your list for a possible new testing video that would be awesome!
@@shiningstarsoup I can't imagine it's more economical to go that route. Are you just looking for options and that's it? Do you not like working with Cement All or hydrostone? Just curious.
@@upvibecandle Oh, no, I love working with Hydrostone. I wasn't looking to use their molding resin products, rather just the gloss sealer. Because I'm in Canada it is harder (and much more expensive) to get my hands on the sealers you recommend. I have been using Clarks Wax for my Hydrostone vessels and it has been working well for me, the Brea Reese looked like another option that I can get for cheaper.
@@upvibecandle Sorry for the confusion!
Put the mold on a table and vibrate the table with a palm sander and the bubbles will come out quickly.
That’s old school. Make your mix smooth and then there is no need for tapping at all.
Thank u so much....
excellent...thanks!
You always my me laugh 😂
Que pena no entiendo nada. Y lo mas chistoso es que traducen en inglés. Que inteligente
Puse los subtítulos en español. ¿No funciona?
Pues los que funcionan son el inglés y me interesaría ver sus vídeos. Gracias, lo volveré a intentar. Un saludo desde Málaga
@@juanraoCowa Acabo de agregar subtítulos en español para ti. Vuelve a intentarlo.
Gracias, gracias y gracias, me suscribo, campanilla y like. Un saludo desde Málaga @@upvibecandle
lol thanks
Your discussion about curing makes me think you don't know what curing is and does. The purpose of curing is to strengthen the concrete. Once curing stops, the strength of the concrete is determined and cannot be increased. Demolding and allowing a project to dry out stops the curing process right then. A certain amount of water is used for forming the concrete paste. For strong finished project it is best to minimize the initial paste water, allow it to set, and then provide more water than is needed for the project to cure to maximum strength. That is why concrete projects are held in the form longer or demolded and submerged under water for several days (up to a month). I realize if you need to make a lot of bowls in a hurry that you will end up taking shortcuts, but if you aren't in a hurry, demold and immediately submerge the bowls for as long as is practical for you. Three days will give you 30% of the possible strength. Twenty-eight days will give you 90+% of possible strength. After that the strength improvement can take months or years, so 28 days is considered a practical end point for curing.
Thank you for your comment. While I don't agree with your interpretation of my knowledge on the subject I appreciate the contribution.
@@upvibecandle Sure. There are many ways to explain things, and nobody needs to get a degree in chemistry before making pots and bowls.
Thank you for all your secrets, but I'm sorry they are of no use to me! Why? Because here in Norway we neither have Home Depot nor Cement All!
That is such a short sighted way of thinking. There are so many nuggets in that video that can be attributed to other products. And for that reason... I am out!
@@upvibecandle
Sorry that you didn't get my joke. If I didn't care, I would not bother to watch and comment.
@@mogbaba it must be the difference in our culture because even after you telling me it was a joke I don’t get it.
Don't worry, I got the joke.