Making My Own Buffing Compound
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- Опубликовано: 25 янв 2019
- With the strops I sell I also sell buffing compound. and I have had a lot of people ask how I make them. in the end it is a simple prosses. you just need some equipment. for most of mine I pour them into ice cube trays, but for this one, I want to show how to make your own mold or use a candy mold.
Where to buy Strops and Buffing compound: www.woodbywright.com/shop/
Full How to video with more detail here: • How to Make Chrome Oxi...
Chrome oxide powder: amzn.to/2Ti3WNc
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Хобби
Brothers are magical, aren’t they?
Hi James, I first want to say I appreciate your content. Your videos are very helpful for people who has no woodworking background. I also appreciate your concistency and humbleness,
cheers,
Audrik
Thank you. That means a lot. I'll keep them coming.
Just a hint. For furture molds like the rounds, hot glue the bottoms to the container and then pour silicone over them. no floating or moving around then and the design gets good covereage. When set just pop off container and demold. Also if you were getting air bubbles you can degass the compound in a vac chamber. Helps with fine details.
Nice idea! I thought of degassing but it was not that much of a problem in this one.
Love it! Great job, as always.
thanks!
I can highly recommend the value of a strop for elevating the sharpness of planes, chisels and knives. I have even started to sharpen my utility knife blades. I hope to never buy another utility blade. Thanks James for showing us how the simple strop and polishing compound changes our notion of what sharp is.
Nice I do the same. even with the exacto blades!
Thanks for showing how and sharing that, well done
my pleasure!
Thanks for a great and informative video 👍🏻 I will definitely try this in my Garage. You've got yourself a new subscriber 😉
Thanks. I'll keep them coming. Let me know if you ever have any questions.
A true craftsman!! Like a boss!
LOL thanks man!
Brilliant. Logo looks good!
Thanks man!
Mr. Wright: I really like your videos and do-it-yourself tips. Old credit cards make the finest small squeegee's, stiff enough to scrape, small enough to tuck into small spaces, and you get two different size edges. They would work great for smoothing off the top of your filled molds and also scraping clean your still warm pot. Also your fans may want to try automotive Rubbing/Polishing compounds for car paint. These are a paste in a can, Rubbing compound has a very fine cutting action, whereas Polishing compound has very little cut and mostly is for final polishing touch up of dull finishes, spreads nicely on a strop or film.
Cool stuff James! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
thanks Fred!
So now I will know how you made the compound that I have ordered from you - always more fun to know the "back story". Also, just wondering how long the Christmas lights are going to be up in the background?
thanks. I have a lot of questions about it. LOL some day I will take them down. we will see!
great lab skills :)
I bought regular cheap chrome oxide buffing compound on eBay. I'm not sure that the ratio of powder to wax was, but I melted it down and diluted it with candle wax and now it works much better. Previously is was always had to use it when it was cold because it would clump up...
Just putting this out there! :)
ya. different leathers respond differently to wax mixtures. a lot of people have the other issue where the wax will not bind to the leather as well.
I didn't know the chrome oxide was what made it green - always just assumed it was dye to indicate the abrasive compound! Think I've been using the same stick for years now, definitely important stuff to have around for woodworkers as it really makes the difference, especially since I only sharpen to 1000grit on the diamond stone.
right on. some of the other oxides are often died, but most have a natural color.
In painting, the technical term for a green oil paint is chromic oxide.
Nice.
Nice video. Wat component do you use for the browns?
Very very very excellent I like it
So much respect for showing how you make this, even though you're selling it! Thank you!
Howcome you're using chromium oxide instead of something like aluminium oxide?
Thanks man. That means a lot. It is just a personal preference. I find the chrome to cut a bit quicker. Though for the average woodworker I dough they would notice a difference.
@@WoodByWright I do like the green though! :D
I was thinking on making my own stropping compound using aluminum oxide, but when i try to get it there are a few mesh size available
But i dont know what the mesh size translate to
@@whisnuidabagus5670
The only buffing compound I find online to be talked about is Chromium oxide, back in the days I saw there were a lot of them , but can't find infos no more 😅.
Yeah there's a whole series of different colors. Those are great when polishing something to a shine but for sharpening steel you really don't need anything other than a chrome. Some of them are more abrasive and some of them are less abrasive but this one's about the middle of the road and all you need for a sharp edge.
@@WoodByWright I meant the powders , I would like to know wich powder to buy to create a wax
James, you might try putting the compound and wax in a plastic bag, then putting the bag in the hot water. Once it melts you can mix it easily by massaging the bag, and when you're ready to put the compound in the mold, snip a tiny bit off the corner of the bag and squeeze it into the mold, a la frosting a cake. It'd be a much easier, more precise, and less sloppy process that way. I'd guess that a heavy duty Ziploc bag should hold up fine to the temps required to melt the wax, but you might need to wear some thin gloves to handle it. And when you're done, just toss the bag.
Just an idea!
interesting. It looked sloppy in this batch due to doing such a small batch, but for most people only having to pipe one or two that would be a great option. when I do a full batch I do 40+ at a time. I don't know if it would stay liquid that long.
@@WoodByWright, gotcha. Makes sense! I suppose you could keep filling the bag from the pot too, if the idea has merit. What made me think of it was all the excess you had around the top of the mold. I know you can remelt it, but I just got to thinking how a guy could do it without too much waste from the start, and for some reason it reminded me of frosting a cake, haha.
Teaches you how to make something he sells very cool
So if you have an old dried out green compound stick can you throw it in a pot with some paraffin and heat it up and stir it together to revive it?
Looks like your prices are very reasonable.
Next time you make a batch use a rubber or silicone spatula to scrape the pot, you will have much less clean up to do. Good luck with your sales, nice idea.
well I do nto clean it I just leave it in there and melt in the next batch.
My thoughts. Buy the compound already in small shapes then heat the mold and just reform the top with your logo. Make the mold to fit the shapes you are buying. Maybe you could get your logo machined into an aluminum piece and heat and cool it to print the logo. Just a thought. I learned something here about how buffing compounds are made. Thanks for the video. I have always wondered if compound could be melted then applied to a buffing wheel to impregnate the cloth with the abrasive.
What do you think about using this buffing compound on a rag as a final step in restoring vintage hand planes?
sure. if you want that highly polished look. that works well. though I still just use leather. it holds the buffing compound closer to the surface then a rag will.
i would just use aluminum oxide if i were making these for rocks, correct?
Very cool and helpful. Keep up the good work!!!
thanks Caleb. congrats on first today!
Hi I like your video can you explain how to make marble final polishing abrasive like Italian yellow type
It's the same thing. Just a different oxide. Each color is representative of a different oxide compound.
Hey James.....It's kinda funny how you call it "carbonite".....the Star wars ice cube tray that you are using is Hans Solo cast in carbonite....(I have the same mold that was a gag gift from Christmas)......I'm not sure if this pun was intended, or if it was a pun at all......Great video BTW....THNX!!
I can not say Hans Solo due to copyright so I just settled for James Wright in Carbonite! LOL
If anyone should make their own, take the meting point of your binder into account. Paraffin wax will melt in a hot workshop or garage without climate control. Beeswax is definitely better in this aspect.
If you don't want to use a mold, you can pour the melted compound into a rolled tube of paper to make giant green crayons. This keeps the dust and dirt down.
right on. that is why I use a dubble boiler, that way the temperature of the wax never gets over the boiling temp of the water. interesting idea with the paper tube. I may have to play with that one. thanks!
@@WoodByWright If you do, be sure to print your logo on the paper. It looks way cool on the strops!
Here's another idea. You could print the quirky subtitles from your video title screens on the paper, too. A different episode for each batch. Bam! Instant collector items. Gotta have 'em all.
I have a compound bar that is pretty dried out, any suggestions on how to get some moisture back into it? Oil maybe? Thanks
Not much other than melting it and adding in a bit of oil or wax.
Did you know what is a good material for mirror finish on the aluminum?
I have used several oxides for that but I do like chrome oxide. it has more to do with the fineness of the oxide then the type as AL ia very soft.
What to do more with that oxide sir?
To clean the pot, put it in the freezer, then the wax comes out easily
I might have to try that.
have you heard about cerium oxide (also known as 'scratch remover')? It's used by gemcutters for finishing. may be worth a try :)
yes. very fine polish, but slow cutting. I use to use it for gold work too.
@@WoodByWright nice, so maybe for polishing on the lathe?
it would be great on epoxy!
@@WoodByWright I'll try that, thanks :)
Do the cerium oxide can make a mirror finish to aluminum part?? 🙏🙏
Hi James, I have pre-ordered my strop and buffing compound. Having seen you make it I am not sure if I should use it when it arrives or keep it safe as when your wife sees the mess in her kitchen they may become very rear one of a kind. If you survive I look forward to receiving it.
LOL yup. thankfuly I am the one that does most the cooking and kitchen cleaning.
If you chamfer the edges of the mold you made, it will be simpler/cleaner to fill and demold.
interesting idea!
Just a thought; Add some sort of filler to bulk up the product. Talc might be used.
LOL
The good stuff is indeed mostly chromium oxide. Msds on the commercial stuff I have states 65 to 85% chromium oxide. The rest is stearic acid and tallow. No talc!
Thanks James. No one wanted to lick the spoon like when you make brownies huh...
LOL ya. not that I did not try!
place water in your pan bring to the boil and it will melt all the wax stuck to pan that`s how you clean your pan,
Eoin Reardon said that car polish can also work. What are your thoughts on that?
It can. It is a very very fine finish and I find it to be a good bit slower but it can work.
@@WoodByWright Gotcha, man. Thank you.
How could I go about melting the bars down and keep it in liquid form to pour into a plastic bottle?
The could put it in an oil rather then a wax.
@@WoodByWright any particular oil I could use?
Depends on what you are putting it on, but for a leather strop I would use a raw linseed oil.
@@WoodByWright I am polishing Chrome rims and bumpers by hand.
can you do a video of this and make it into a paste?
ion that case you use oil rather then wax. I am not a fan of that though. it just makes a mess and does not work as well. but some people like it.
What can you use besides chrome oxide?
Any of the different polishing compounds will work. It all depends on the grit you want.
Hello there, I came across your video but I really have zero knowledge when it comes to chemistry.. Im trying to help my father to find the formula for Green buffing compound, help would be appreciated.
It is chrome oxide. There's a link to it in the description below if you want to see the exact stuff I use.
@@WoodByWright Hello Mr, Thanks for your reply, really appreciate your help.
I told my father that he need to mix the chrome oxide with beeswax, but he asked me if he need something else with them like Aluminium oxide or fatty acid... Also, when it comes to chrome oxide and beeswax, what is the required amount ?
Im sorry for disturbing u, Im just trying to be helpful to him :x.
Thanks in advance ❤
Cool video! I had to laugh at the dishwasher joke. I watched another channel that the guy was prepping engine parts for painting and i made a joke about now i know what that machine in. My kitchen was for he responded back and told me apparently thats a fucking Dishwasher according to his wife because she screamed at him Asking why are there car parts in the fucking dishwasher the next day Ive been happily divorced for 35 years Lived in my own house with my children 4 blocks away from my ex wife if i wanted to park my motorcycle in my living room i did. As a matter of fact. I built a walk in closet in the master bedroom specifically for my motorcycle ! One time i had a long time girlfriend say something like ive never saw your motorcycle and i told her whee to look she thought it was hysterical that it had been there all that time ? I did remove the fuel tank and saddlebags to store it in the house but those were fast to put back on
LOL now that sounds like a good time!
What are the dies made of? Wood?
I a 3D printed mine
$14 for 4 pounces of compound on eBay.
You can get a whole pound of for $17 on eBay!
yup. I was trying to find the cheapest small amount to make just one or two blocks. that is a lifetimes supply for most people. I buy it in 20lb bags and it is even cheaper.
What was the name of the other product, not the wax but the green powder
That is chrome oxide.
@@WoodByWright o ok, thanks, I have another question, how much of the green powder to wax should be to make a 1 pound bar of the compound
By her beeswax is a good base is that true
That is what I use.
what is the benefit of making this yourself? seems to be cheap enough and last long enough that buying it premade is hard to argue with
I make it myself to sell, but I have had a lot of people asking how I make it. in the end for the small quantities people need it is FAR CHEAPER to just buy it, but some people like to be self seficent and have the fun of making things themselves. that is why I mention several times that is cost prohibitive to make it yourself. and say it even more in the How to version of the video.
@@WoodByWright Putting cost aside, would you say that your home made version is of a better quality than store bought? I have purchased a few green blocks that I swear where nothing more than a green crayon, they did nothing.
@@davesatosky5840 it depends on the block you get. Some of them are really good and some of them are more wax than anything else.
Satisfaction Knowing that you can make something and make it how you want it. Plus if you have friends, you can make some for them AND share.
whaTt is the grain on the cromeoxide ? is 400 good for this ?
sorry I do not know what you mean by the grain? if you are referring to grit then that depends. when you first use it it is around 10,000 grit or so, but after using it a few times it gets closer in equivalent to 20,000 however it cuts much differently then diamonds, sand paper, or wet stones, so the measurement is not a good equivalence.
@@WoodByWright it was grit i meant , i saw a honing system using 180 grit for a dangeresly sharp sharping system , and they use 180 grit mixed with bee wax , and then polish it , so i bought 900 grams green crome oxid 400 ,
👍👍💯😎
How to connect with you any mail id or social media where we can connect?
I'm on all of the social medias just look for wood by wright. But if you wish to email me the email is listed on the about tab on the channel here on RUclips. Also there's a contact me form on my website.
Thought that amount of chrome stuff would have gone farther......
on the final product is around 80% or more chrome oxide. it does not take much wax at all.
I usually buy it in 20 lb bags for the ones I sell.
@@WoodByWright how many ounces of the green powder to beeswax ratio
James, I don't want to spend $200 buying a brand to "sign" my work. Show me how to make one?
What type of sign are you wanting. I have done a ton. From sand blasting to steel to simple frame.
To clarify, I'm not making signs, rather I want to make a branding iron to mark my pieces.
@@Exodus5K I see. I want to do another video here soon showing how to do that. It is easier then it looks.
You're the best James
MAD SCIENTIST at Work..
LOL yup. or at least just MAD!
Is that Han Solo ?
Lol yup.
Is it dangerous to breathe vapors from heating chrome oxide?
you are not heating it enough to cause vapors and it is captured in the wax. it is only being heated to around 100F
Hindi samja do yr koi
Why would you spend $14 for 4 oz. of chrome oxide and another $12 for beeswax and go through the hassle of making polishing compound when for $15 you can buy a 1 lb. block that will last like forever? I have better things to do with my time! At least use a putty knife to smooth the molds flat! You are a nice guy though.
Yep. There are people out there who like to do things the hard way. There's a reason why I buy it in bulk and sell it much cheaper than that.
Your process not clear, you are hiding formula, please clear your formula, kolkata
Chrome oxide + bees wax. That is it.
ah, makin' a mess, any excuse eh?
LOL yup!
W’Allah means By Allah!
interesting. I had not heard of that one. I though it was french. ORIGIN OF VOILÀ
1825-35; < French, equivalent to voi see! (2nd person singular imperative of voir to see) + la there
It’s Arabic, but I have an inkling that voila may also have Arabic origin... it would be interesting to check it out!
No, it is _not_ Arabic! It is from the French 'voila' which means 'there'.
DO NOT put that stuff in your dishwasher! Bad idea that could cost you in the future.
It's great that it will remove it, but it does so by melting the compound.
Once it is melted it will be sent down your drain and in all likelihood, it will harden again somewhere in that drain line. Then at some point, once there is too much buildup, you will be stuck trying to get it out of the drain line so your dishwasher and kitchen sink will drain once again.