Yay!! You’ve I finally got the answer to my question about extra length on throttle and steering cuz my houseboat’s helm is going to be further forward than any pin/tritoon I’ve seen to date. A couple of hundred bucks is doable to get the helm where I need it in the cabin. THANKS Tom! And now, back to binging on Toms Toons for more incredibly valuable information and occasionally a pretty lady. 🤪
They pretty much make the cables as long as you'd need them to be. I think our houseboat steering cable is 26' long if I remember right...which means our shift/throttle cables must be 28' or so.
Thank you!! They’re built darn near the same as the new boats, and aluminum lasts forever. We might have to tweak some stuff to bring them to modern style or a more practical use, but golly it’s worth it!!!
You're going to hate me with all of these suggestions but I had the same problem with my toon. I took a pair of vise grips and held the washer while cutting the top off of the washer. I feel better when I do that. OCD?
I'll never be bummed about comments and suggestions. It helps the channel get attention (from what I've heard with the algorithms and whatnot) and it gives folks reading the comments some good information or entertainment! I won't judge you for getting it done the way that makes you happy. Nothing wrong with that!
Great stuff- much appreciated. I have an older pontoon with the notched transom decking. Aside from the cabling that you mentioned, where does the gas tank go? My tank is currently tucked into the rear corner.
Hey John! We have another video, of this same boat actually, where we show installation of the fuel tank. It is located under a rear sundeck cushion. Check our full list of videos for it.
Tom, good morning to you and wife. My guess she is the camera girl. We had to get new pontoons as the boat almost sunk and got bent up and holes. JB weld was all over them on and around the supports. At that point I started doing research on old pontoon boats. (1989). First, I should have left it in the old lady's barn. I think that we have something to work with. New motor and new pontoons too. The Bow is some 3 + feet longer than it were. Going to do like you did on the stern for supports. The ladder on the trailer is the problem. Any ideas on how to make this work? We will be ordering from Pontoon stuff as in the past. Thank you. Steve.
Hey Steven! Thanks for watching. It varies who's behind the camera, but yes, she gets stuck filming more times than not. That's quite a project with everything you had to do to your boat. Unfortunately, once someone starts using epoxies or JB Weld it ruins the chances of fixing it properly (aluminum welding), so it sounds like you got it taken care of and can now move on. The ladder stanchion on trailers is typically moveable with a few nuts and bolts loosened. If that doesn't work you may have to run a longer rear bunk board to allow some of the pontoon to hang off the back IF your tongue weight is still proper and there's support under the toons. The 100% proper fix would be selling it and getting a trailer that's designed to haul that size and weight of boat...I live by the motto that it's always better to have too much trailer under your boat than not enough!
Not yet, but I know that option is coming at some point. I hope to do it to my own boat someday if we ever built another tritoon or houseboat. Add more swim deck!
Every transom pod I’ve ever seen has the rear open. This allows water to drain out once the boat is moving fast enough forward. It’s even common for transoms on tritoons to have a space where water can flow in and out of in the very back. Hurts buoyancy at idle or slow speeds on Tritoons, but once it on plane all the water drains out and the planing surface is still there to help the boat perform.
@@tomspontoons Thank you for responding. That is very helpful. The previous owner closed up, with wood, what I thought should have been open and he added a bilge pump. I am really enjoying your videos and cant wait to start my pontoon restoration project. Thank you again for great content.
Hi tom. Great idea. Seems like it would work to me I have had people look at that video and question it how did it turn out overall did it handle any differently would you do it again? Thanks
Mounting the motor back farther typically improves flow of water to the engine coming off the pontoons which reduces cavitation or blow out. Also, having the motor farther back allows more leverage for trim benefits because of better leverage. This one with only a 40 hp won’t see tremendous performance gain. It was more about increasing deck space here to get the layout they wanted. Great question!! Thanks for asking!
Hey Tom if you move transom back like that . Can you bolt up a 20ft tool onto a24 foot pontoon boat 75 hp. Old kayot 1974. Planing this project have already rebuilt boat new railing floor carpet an seats. Seem like can just bolt on ahead of transom???
You could do that, we call it a “sport toon”. This video will help break all that down: DETAILS ABOUT TRITOONS & SPORT TOONS - FAQ & Things You Should Know ruclips.net/video/eLdAA6lYP10/видео.html
@Toms Toons Pontoon Refurbishing great video thank you! So can transom pod be shorten? As long as toon is place real close to transom as long as structure is displacing power from motor an secure to frame?
@@MikeSeybold-cm8id I just wouldn't want to take out any of the connections to crossmembers if shortening a transom. Or if you do I would want to weld it to the back of the center pontoon in order to gain some stability back and reduce any flexing/torque on the structure.
Great question! We have no weight issues when doing this as long as we go with a more modern style furniture layout where the railings and front seats are pushed forward with a small front deck or no front deck. Our 22’ tritoon has the motor 2’ back from the outer toons, a 500+ lb Suzuki 200, and it sits super level!!
I'm planning on redecking and rebuilding my 2002 Sweetwater. It's also a 20' with the same indent for the transom and motor. I have a 90hp Yamaha. Do you think this should be possible with that heavy a motor? And how would you recommend getting the motor off the boat?
Hey Tom, question, how do you gauge how far forward to start your new fence from the back edge so that the motor doesn't hit when raised? I see some of your boats are a couple inches back and then others are ~16 inches. If you set the transom back 14 inches from back edge, is that enough space for the motor to raise without hitting the new railing fence?
Great question! The safest way to do it is to tilt the motor all the way up, and adjust the fence on the back as close as possible without touching. Sometimes there’s just not enough room when the floor plan comes together, especially when dealing with a heavy motor on a lighter duty transom where the transom setback needs to be minimal. On top of that, every motor design is different…an older twin cylinder 50 hp Evinrude is much lower profile than a new in line 4 cylinder Mercury 50 hp four stroke!
Hey Tom, so I moved my transom back. The way it worked out I could only get 11 inches from back cross-member to transom. Ideally wanted couple more inches (in this video you got 14 inches) but just the way it worked to allow the transom to attach to each cross member. With this said, I am looking to reduce my front deck from 36 inches to 26 inches, to allow for my floor plan. Just have to move the railing forward a couple inches more to accommodate for tilting motor. In your opinion \ experience, have you moved the railing forward ~10 inches without any balance issues to the boat. Just want to avoid nose dives on a two pontoon boat. What do you think?
@@scottslattery5904 I would say that you moving the engine back with the transom move it should help counter something like 10" of railings and very front seats going forward. I think you'll be just fine doing what you have planned. If you were pushing everything all the way forward and had a front heavy layout planned then it might be an issue.
Yay!! You’ve I finally got the answer to my question about extra length on throttle and steering cuz my houseboat’s helm is going to be further forward than any pin/tritoon I’ve seen to date. A couple of hundred bucks is doable to get the helm where I need it in the cabin. THANKS Tom!
And now, back to binging on Toms Toons for more incredibly valuable information and occasionally a pretty lady. 🤪
They pretty much make the cables as long as you'd need them to be. I think our houseboat steering cable is 26' long if I remember right...which means our shift/throttle cables must be 28' or so.
Hey Tom, as always great instructional video! Way to save these old pontoons from scrapyards!!
Thank you!! They’re built darn near the same as the new boats, and aluminum lasts forever. We might have to tweak some stuff to bring them to modern style or a more practical use, but golly it’s worth it!!!
Great work man! These videos are very cool. Looking forward to seeing the restoration complete!
Thank you!! Tons of videos to come!
You're going to hate me with all of these suggestions but I had the same problem with my toon. I took a pair of vise grips and held the washer while cutting the top off of the washer. I feel better when I do that. OCD?
I'll never be bummed about comments and suggestions. It helps the channel get attention (from what I've heard with the algorithms and whatnot) and it gives folks reading the comments some good information or entertainment! I won't judge you for getting it done the way that makes you happy. Nothing wrong with that!
Where did you buy the C Channel? Love the content
Just about all my aluminum extrusions come from a local metal retailer. It's certainly not cheap these days, but aluminum is the best option!
Great stuff- much appreciated. I have an older pontoon with the notched transom decking. Aside from the cabling that you mentioned, where does the gas tank go? My tank is currently tucked into the rear corner.
Hey John! We have another video, of this same boat actually, where we show installation of the fuel tank. It is located under a rear sundeck cushion. Check our full list of videos for it.
Tom, good morning to you and wife. My guess she is the camera girl. We had to get new pontoons as the boat almost sunk and got bent up and holes. JB weld was all over them on and around the supports. At that point I started doing research on old pontoon boats. (1989). First, I should have left it in the old lady's barn. I think that we have something to work with. New motor and new pontoons too. The Bow is some 3 + feet longer than it were. Going to do like you did on the stern for supports. The ladder on the trailer is the problem. Any ideas on how to make this work? We will be ordering from Pontoon stuff as in the past. Thank you. Steve.
Hey Steven! Thanks for watching. It varies who's behind the camera, but yes, she gets stuck filming more times than not. That's quite a project with everything you had to do to your boat. Unfortunately, once someone starts using epoxies or JB Weld it ruins the chances of fixing it properly (aluminum welding), so it sounds like you got it taken care of and can now move on. The ladder stanchion on trailers is typically moveable with a few nuts and bolts loosened. If that doesn't work you may have to run a longer rear bunk board to allow some of the pontoon to hang off the back IF your tongue weight is still proper and there's support under the toons. The 100% proper fix would be selling it and getting a trailer that's designed to haul that size and weight of boat...I live by the motto that it's always better to have too much trailer under your boat than not enough!
Have u got a video where u extend the floor past the pontoon at the stern
Not yet, but I know that option is coming at some point. I hope to do it to my own boat someday if we ever built another tritoon or houseboat. Add more swim deck!
@@tomspontoons sweet, thanks for replying mate👍
It looks like there is a large opening at the bottom of the transom. Does water flow in and out of the motor pod?
Every transom pod I’ve ever seen has the rear open. This allows water to drain out once the boat is moving fast enough forward. It’s even common for transoms on tritoons to have a space where water can flow in and out of in the very back. Hurts buoyancy at idle or slow speeds on Tritoons, but once it on plane all the water drains out and the planing surface is still there to help the boat perform.
@@tomspontoons Thank you for responding. That is very helpful. The previous owner closed up, with wood, what I thought should have been open and he added a bilge pump. I am really enjoying your videos and cant wait to start my pontoon restoration project. Thank you again for great content.
@@brianhowes6448 I would replace that wood and open up that transom to drain freely!
Thanks for watching!
Hi tom. Great idea. Seems like it would work to me I have had people look at that video and question it how did it turn out overall did it handle any differently would you do it again? Thanks
Mounting the motor back farther typically improves flow of water to the engine coming off the pontoons which reduces cavitation or blow out. Also, having the motor farther back allows more leverage for trim benefits because of better leverage. This one with only a 40 hp won’t see tremendous performance gain. It was more about increasing deck space here to get the layout they wanted. Great question!! Thanks for asking!
@@tomspontoons thanks a lot. Great insight. Keep up the great videos
@@blackoakautobody8674 absolutely, you’re welcome! We will keep the videos going!
Hey Tom if you move transom back like that . Can you bolt up a 20ft tool onto a24 foot pontoon boat 75 hp. Old kayot 1974. Planing this project have already rebuilt boat new railing floor carpet an seats. Seem like can just bolt on ahead of transom???
You could do that, we call it a “sport toon”. This video will help break all that down:
DETAILS ABOUT TRITOONS & SPORT TOONS - FAQ & Things You Should Know
ruclips.net/video/eLdAA6lYP10/видео.html
@Toms Toons Pontoon Refurbishing great video thank you!
So can transom pod be shorten? As long as toon is place real close to transom as long as structure is displacing power from motor an secure to frame?
@@MikeSeybold-cm8id I just wouldn't want to take out any of the connections to crossmembers if shortening a transom. Or if you do I would want to weld it to the back of the center pontoon in order to gain some stability back and reduce any flexing/torque on the structure.
Quantos metros de comprimento tem ?
The boat is about 6 meters long.
Does that cause any weight distribution issues? Stern will be in water deeper? Or not an issue with the smaller engine?
Great question! We have no weight issues when doing this as long as we go with a more modern style furniture layout where the railings and front seats are pushed forward with a small front deck or no front deck. Our 22’ tritoon has the motor 2’ back from the outer toons, a 500+ lb Suzuki 200, and it sits super level!!
I'm planning on redecking and rebuilding my 2002 Sweetwater. It's also a 20' with the same indent for the transom and motor. I have a 90hp Yamaha. Do you think this should be possible with that heavy a motor? And how would you recommend getting the motor off the boat?
Hey Tom, question, how do you gauge how far forward to start your new fence from the back edge so that the motor doesn't hit when raised? I see some of your boats are a couple inches back and then others are ~16 inches. If you set the transom back 14 inches from back edge, is that enough space for the motor to raise without hitting the new railing fence?
Great question! The safest way to do it is to tilt the motor all the way up, and adjust the fence on the back as close as possible without touching. Sometimes there’s just not enough room when the floor plan comes together, especially when dealing with a heavy motor on a lighter duty transom where the transom setback needs to be minimal. On top of that, every motor design is different…an older twin cylinder 50 hp Evinrude is much lower profile than a new in line 4 cylinder Mercury 50 hp four stroke!
Hey Tom, so I moved my transom back. The way it worked out I could only get 11 inches from back cross-member to transom. Ideally wanted couple more inches (in this video you got 14 inches) but just the way it worked to allow the transom to attach to each cross member. With this said, I am looking to reduce my front deck from 36 inches to 26 inches, to allow for my floor plan. Just have to move the railing forward a couple inches more to accommodate for tilting motor. In your opinion \ experience, have you moved the railing forward ~10 inches without any balance issues to the boat. Just want to avoid nose dives on a two pontoon boat. What do you think?
@@scottslattery5904 I would say that you moving the engine back with the transom move it should help counter something like 10" of railings and very front seats going forward. I think you'll be just fine doing what you have planned. If you were pushing everything all the way forward and had a front heavy layout planned then it might be an issue.
Safety third always! Shake and bake.
Thanks for watching when we first share!