Thanks a lot Rich, your videos are utterly helpful for anyone who has to do with lasers and this issue with Lightburn camera drove me nuts for the past few months, I will try your recommendations out... I am only curious in regard of positioning these wood pieces, I have a Sculpfun s30 Ultra with a bed size of 600x600 mm, I would then place the wood pieces exactly in the corners of my work area and then laser the circles? Because in Lightburn ver 1.7.03 there is a somewhat improved (different) way of aligning lens and camera (with AprilTags additional to the Circles pattern and what not) and there is an option in the Camera Alignment dialog box that allows expanding the sample image (circles and numbers) that is going to be engraved on the wooden plates, which allows the user to scale automatically (in my case 273%) to fit the Workarea. Thanks in advance and have a nice day!
I didn't say it was the right way I said it was easier for me to draw a circle where I wanted it from the center out and not have to move it into place saving a step.
Good morning. I have the lasermatic XW, but I'm not getting the Circles during the camera alignment test. I followed the instructions per Dimitri on the Roly page. IS there a reason why that is happening? Thanks
It took me a while to realize this need to create settings for each thickness. The LB doesn't really make the purpose of "material thickness" in the setup window clear. My *current* issue is that I'll run an alignment, then burn boxes in each corner and the top boxes will be spot on but the bottom could be off 1/8 - 1/4". I can't adjust the x/y to correct the "astigmatism" without throwing off the top boxes.
Great video as always. I have done both tests in Lightburn get my camera to work correctly and still having issues. Will try to make this short. I have a WeCreat Vista 10w. When using the Makeit software, I don't have to frame anything, I know where I put text or a design, that is where my laser is going to burn. In Lightburn, even after calibrating, I have to put my design about a 1/2 an inch to the left and about a 1/4th of an inch higher then where I want it to start. I have had to do it so much that I have it down pretty good but I would really like it to start where it should. Any suggestions would be awesome!
It's done by thickness, not material. I stack these 2mm wood squares to the thickness I need: amzn.to/4bCDxlp You could also stack craft paper under the wood to bring it to the thickness you need.
Another good advice 👍. Question, for every material thickness camera needs to be calibrated (Roly Laser)? why would the thickness matter if the alignment is referring to where the laser head is positioned?
So I just did this and it was spot on with the wood. I then swapped out the honeycomb and put in the jig plate and tried to do a business card and it is way off on alignment. Why is this?
I use that something in light burn but the width and height are off right on in some areas and off in others adjust camera settings to get as close as I can and next thing you know it's way off in locations never consistant
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy i did watch till the end have tried t calibrate my machine but dot have the machine setting in edit have tried gerbl and all the other controllers and get noting but busy and nothing works is scanning offset adjustment in smoothieware the same as machine settings in edit and works the same way your the genus at lightburn thanks
Well I know nothing about your machine or your settings, and in a RUclips comment, there's not much I can diagnose. Try posting on my free forums. lahobbyguy.com/bb
Hey Rich, great info. Really appreciate all the info. you put out. One thing I wish you would do is show those of us who have no clue as to how you are saving and renaming the different thicknesses of product. Thanks so much.
Can you help a newbie please. Im engraving on glass but the image sometimes comes out mirrored sometimes normal what am i doing wrong? Please help 😊 I know its not camera related as i dont have one haha.
@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy thank you so much for replying. It says its off and the writing is readable from inside the glass but on the outside it is backwards. Should I have mirror on?
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Sorry LHG, I didnt mean to hijack your video, My issue is really a lens calibration issue, I should not have commented here. Im frustrated. My system is working well for what i use this laser for but placing artwork on a knife requires a well calibrated lens. My results are distorted making one spot dead on and another .5mm high, or .3mm wide in different areas of my working area. As always, your vids are a great source.
Thanks for the video. I watched it all the way to the end, but still have a few questions. 1) Your explanation about the material thickness does not make sense to me because whether the material is 1mm thick of 1 foot thick, the surface that is being engraved upon is still the exact same distance form the laser head (and camera) so what is the difference how much material is beneath that surface? You related it to moving a DSLR further away from a subject and "of course" it is out of focus, but that really is not the case here because if I put on a material that is 1cm thicker, then I drop the bed 1cm so the distance from the surface being focused on and the lense has not changed at all. 2) Brilliant to burn the pattern much larger, as you have, but you skipped over the part about how you determined the size. I assume that you just put the 2 blocks at the extreme corners of engraveable areas and then just placed the other two so they form a perfect square with the initial two and then center the 5th one, is that right? Obviously, you would have to measure exactly how big that square is in order to scale the burn area. 3) Lastly, I have set my camera up with the dot method which was a nightmare of an experience and I am not even sure if it is accurate (though I got it to complete so allegedly it is). It sounds like you are saying I did not have to do that at all and could have just picked the lens angle from the dropdown and skipped that whole step, is that right? With my camera it does list it so would I be better to use that preset or leave it alone since I already did the dot method? Thanks again for everything you do. Much appreciated!
Okay, so: 1) The distance from the *camera* to the material changes since the honeycomb or waste board are both in fixed positions. 2) I just increased the size of the pattern by a % and looked at the preview. 3) Yes, better to use the preset IMO.
I much appreciate your reply, but the first point still doesn’t make sense to me. You said that the honeycomb or waste board is in a fixed position, but it isn’t in a fixed position. It moves up and down, so if the material is thicker, then the honeycomb is lower, so the surface is still in the same place. I’m not familiar with other lasers so, based on what you are saying, I’m wondering if with other ones that honeycomb does not move. If that is the case, then what you’re saying makes perfect sense to me.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I have calibrated my camera on the MK2 for 0, 3, 6, 9, 12 mm wood, it took many tries on each on before I got something close. Never got that close on the first try. I’ll check LB forum to see if I did something wrong, but it is a pretty straight forward.
![ROSÉ(로제) - APT. (Band VER.) (With. 이영지) [더 시즌즈-이영지의 레인보우] | KBS 241129 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IW8qaemx74g/mqdefault.jpg)
This video is for a *diode hobby laser!* If you have a *Co2 with an adjustable bed, it doesn't apply to you!*
Thanks a lot Rich, your videos are utterly helpful for anyone who has to do with lasers and this issue with Lightburn camera drove me nuts for the past few months, I will try your recommendations out... I am only curious in regard of positioning these wood pieces, I have a Sculpfun s30 Ultra with a bed size of 600x600 mm, I would then place the wood pieces exactly in the corners of my work area and then laser the circles? Because in Lightburn ver 1.7.03 there is a somewhat improved (different) way of aligning lens and camera (with AprilTags additional to the Circles pattern and what not) and there is an option in the Camera Alignment dialog box that allows expanding the sample image (circles and numbers) that is going to be engraved on the wooden plates, which allows the user to scale automatically (in my case 273%) to fit the Workarea. Thanks in advance and have a nice day!
I haven't done a camera alignment in 1.7 yet.
I've found when drawing circles that it's much easier to use shift + control and the circle will draw from the center out. Thanks for the video!
Awesome! 👍 Thanks for watching!
There is no wrong way,just Another way to do something 😉🥂
I didn't say it was the right way I said it was easier for me to draw a circle where I wanted it from the center out and not have to move it into place saving a step.
@@georgechambers3197 🥂
Good morning. I have the lasermatic XW, but I'm not getting the Circles during the camera alignment test. I followed the instructions per Dimitri on the Roly page. IS there a reason why that is happening? Thanks
You may not have the power set high enough to mark the material.
How do i fix the inversion issue. The live view of my camera is accurate but the work space is inverted. Any ideas?
Ask on the Lightburn forum, they would know. Could be your device settings have the wrong origin, IDK.
It took me a while to realize this need to create settings for each thickness. The LB doesn't really make the purpose of "material thickness" in the setup window clear.
My *current* issue is that I'll run an alignment, then burn boxes in each corner and the top boxes will be spot on but the bottom could be off 1/8 - 1/4". I can't adjust the x/y to correct the "astigmatism" without throwing off the top boxes.
Did you watch to the end?
Great video as always. I have done both tests in Lightburn get my camera to work correctly and still having issues. Will try to make this short. I have a WeCreat Vista 10w. When using the Makeit software, I don't have to frame anything, I know where I put text or a design, that is where my laser is going to burn. In Lightburn, even after calibrating, I have to put my design about a 1/2 an inch to the left and about a 1/4th of an inch higher then where I want it to start. I have had to do it so much that I have it down pretty good but I would really like it to start where it should. Any suggestions would be awesome!
Awesome! 👍 Thanks for sharing!
how would I set alignment doing flat stainless bottle openers or the thicker wood bottle openers and wood keychains ( small items)
It's done by thickness, not material. I stack these 2mm wood squares to the thickness I need: amzn.to/4bCDxlp
You could also stack craft paper under the wood to bring it to the thickness you need.
Another good advice 👍. Question, for every material thickness camera needs to be calibrated (Roly Laser)? why would the thickness matter if the alignment is referring to where the laser head is positioned?
I explained why in the video.
How did you get the calibration engraved on separate pieces? I thought was that was engraved you weren’t supposed to move it, right?
The calibration engraves on all 4 corners.
so this is my problem, I don't need to do the lens calibration again just the alignment for different material thickness?
Yes, the lens calibration is done just once. It gets saved with every alignment.
No matter how many times I try it keep alignoff to the right by an inch. Any ideas
No I don't, sorry. Cameras are fickle in Lightburn.
So I just did this and it was spot on with the wood. I then swapped out the honeycomb and put in the jig plate and tried to do a business card and it is way off on alignment. Why is this?
Because you didn't watch to the end!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Yes. I realized that shortly after I posted that. Thanks for the help..
Hi Rich.I cannot find the file on my Facebook page. I live in Portugal. Would that influence my access to the file. Thank you.
facebook.com/groups/rolyofficial
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Hi Rich. Try as I may I cannot find the file. I looked under files but to no avail. What am I missing?Thanks for your help
Great tutorial as usual Rich. Will this process work on a CO2 laser(Omtech Polar 350) as well?
Yes Keith, any fixed camera used by Lightburn.
Great video Rich, very helpful. Thanks for the continued training.
Awesome! 👍 Thanks for watching!
Thanks Rich! This helped me solve a problem that has been driving me over the edge for months.
Glad it helped Gerald!
I can't find the file in the files select on the Facebook page
It's there: facebook.com/groups/rolyofficial/permalink/1349434309017403
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy These links look to be for the LaserMatic 10, is it the same profile then for the MK2?
Yep, same camera.
I use that something in light burn but the width and height are off right on in some areas and off in others adjust camera settings to get as close as I can and next thing you know it's way off in locations never consistant
Watch the video to the end Jim.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy i did watch till the end have tried t calibrate my machine but dot have the machine setting in edit have tried gerbl and all the other controllers and get noting but busy and nothing works is scanning offset adjustment in smoothieware the same as machine settings in edit and works the same way your the genus at lightburn thanks
Well I know nothing about your machine or your settings, and in a RUclips comment, there's not much I can diagnose. Try posting on my free forums. lahobbyguy.com/bb
Hey Rich, great info. Really appreciate all the info. you put out. One thing I wish you would do is show those of us who have no clue as to how you are saving and renaming the different thicknesses of product. Thanks so much.
I showed you in the video!
Can you help a newbie please. Im engraving on glass but the image sometimes comes out mirrored sometimes normal what am i doing wrong? Please help 😊
I know its not camera related as i dont have one haha.
In the rotary setup window, you can turn on and off the Mirror Output.
@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy thank you so much for replying.
It says its off and the writing is readable from inside the glass but on the outside it is backwards. Should I have mirror on?
Yes
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy amazing thank you 😊
My issue is all of the sudden when I try to update the overlay even though the small display shows it.
I don't understand the issue.
I wish I could get the same results on my UV galvo for accurate knife engraving. A little off is a long way off.
I explain why near the end of the video.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Sorry LHG, I didnt mean to hijack your video, My issue is really a lens calibration issue, I should not have commented here. Im frustrated. My system is working well for what i use this laser for but placing artwork on a knife requires a well calibrated lens. My results are distorted making one spot dead on and another .5mm high, or .3mm wide in different areas of my working area. As always, your vids are a great source.
If you're having hardware issues, contact my partner Patrick. He can likely help, sales@lightsource.pro
I just bought a Lightburn Camera, for 1. Testings its pretty accurate....😮
Awesome! 👍 Thanks for watching!
Thank you!
You're welcome Richard, Thanks for watching!
I didn’t realise that you needed to make settings for each and every thickness of material you laser.
That's the mistake most people make Robert.
I did my test laser on 12mm thick piece and when I Lasered on a 2mm leather keyrings I had to adjust in light burn as it was off.
Thanks for the video. I watched it all the way to the end, but still have a few questions.
1) Your explanation about the material thickness does not make sense to me because whether the material is 1mm thick of 1 foot thick, the surface that is being engraved upon is still the exact same distance form the laser head (and camera) so what is the difference how much material is beneath that surface? You related it to moving a DSLR further away from a subject and "of course" it is out of focus, but that really is not the case here because if I put on a material that is 1cm thicker, then I drop the bed 1cm so the distance from the surface being focused on and the lense has not changed at all.
2) Brilliant to burn the pattern much larger, as you have, but you skipped over the part about how you determined the size. I assume that you just put the 2 blocks at the extreme corners of engraveable areas and then just placed the other two so they form a perfect square with the initial two and then center the 5th one, is that right? Obviously, you would have to measure exactly how big that square is in order to scale the burn area.
3) Lastly, I have set my camera up with the dot method which was a nightmare of an experience and I am not even sure if it is accurate (though I got it to complete so allegedly it is). It sounds like you are saying I did not have to do that at all and could have just picked the lens angle from the dropdown and skipped that whole step, is that right? With my camera it does list it so would I be better to use that preset or leave it alone since I already did the dot method?
Thanks again for everything you do. Much appreciated!
Okay, so:
1) The distance from the *camera* to the material changes since the honeycomb or waste board are both in fixed positions.
2) I just increased the size of the pattern by a % and looked at the preview.
3) Yes, better to use the preset IMO.
I much appreciate your reply, but the first point still doesn’t make sense to me. You said that the honeycomb or waste board is in a fixed position, but it isn’t in a fixed position. It moves up and down, so if the material is thicker, then the honeycomb is lower, so the surface is still in the same place. I’m not familiar with other lasers so, based on what you are saying, I’m wondering if with other ones that honeycomb does not move. If that is the case, then what you’re saying makes perfect sense to me.
Yeah, so on a Co2, you're right, the honeycomb does in fact move and this doesn't apply.
I wish mine did that well on my MK2.
You just saw it on an Mk2! I guess you didn't watch to the end and missed the most important part...
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I have calibrated my camera on the MK2 for 0, 3, 6, 9, 12 mm wood, it took many tries on each on before I got something close. Never got that close on the first try. I’ll check LB forum to see if I did something wrong, but it is a pretty straight forward.
The key is getting those crosshairs perfectly aligned on all 4 numbers.
I don't use Facebook for anything...
Neither do I Terry, except the laser and woodworking groups. The link I put for the lens profile it to a Google Drive download.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thank you!
Sorry Rich, you did show us. I guess my old age and obvious brain deterioration is showing.
🤪
Who me ? I haven’t made more than 2 mistakes every time I try to burn up stuff.
Join the club Clinton!