Thought I would answer a couple of points here to save endless comments. Of course I can cut down all 45 blocks to width, perhaps just feeling lazy when I was filming that part of the video. 😀 also as far as the overall height goes, the post will just be cut shorter to account for the 115mm or so that blocks add. 👍
*waits anxiously to see if you DO cut them down to size* 🧐 it would make another good short video where you can rant/mumble away to yourself entertainingly!
Why are you so concerned about height? Your ‘novel’ roof is dual slope, therefore 4m to play with. I wondered how you were going to protect the sole plate because it sitting on concrete base. Perhaps tannelised sole plate on top of a dpc?
@@TWOKDOK1 It still needs to be under 2.5m for permitted development rules (ie. to build without requiring planning permission). To use a 4m roof you have to be more than 2m away from the boundary to the next property.
I like the quick staff meeting at 6:46 - you could inhale some air from a balloon, say that helium affects your voice but it also makes you work really quickly. If you leave a video on half speed it sounds like you've had a stroke. Quite interesting to find out what the changes of speed can do on youtube. I'd change the speed of the videos to about 1.25 of normal speed - it can make you look more intelligent.
Thx for answering my questions last night. The timber framing book has some good advice on fixings dpm etc etc p66 - 76. If you are dropping a few anchors on your sole plate it sounds like you will have to get the TITAN out Tim!
You could use the 40mm above the concrete blocks for services, run all your power/air/water(?) in a little trunk over the concrete block. Keeps things tidy, makes a good spot for low down power points, run plumbed air through the workshop without having to cut into your beams, etc.
You know you're in big when one of the smaller timbers is a 4x7! Been keeping an eye out for a second hand makita chain mortiser for a year or so now but no luck yet. You're building exactly what I had planned, so pleased you're doing this series!
It's working well, the tag team evening edit. She cuts out all the nonsense and me chatting away too much and I just get to make it a little bit fancy before it goes out.
Depending on the thickness of the insulation you are using and if it is the thick foam board type- If you are insulating the outside of the building and cladding it all the way to the ground, could you have the blocks stick out and cut the insulation to form around the protruding block and then the finished cladding would cover that? Does that make sense? I wish I could draw what I mean lol
This is what I’d do too. Put the 50mm step on the outside, insulate down to it (or notch the bottom of the insulation if it’s thicker than 50mm) and sail the cladding over the top edge of the blocks - leaving a small gap along the bottom.
The only thing you gain by putting the step on the inside (or cutting the blocks down) is the ability to continue the insulation full thickness over the blocks. But you’re always going to have to leave a gap so your insulation and cladding isn’t in contact with the ground, so realistically, you only gain a couple of inches more insulation coverage. I don’t see the point.
@@BunkerMentality exactly what I've said as well. Also mentioned doing a course of thermal blocks instead of regular to help with insulation lost due to the notch cut out - no thermal bridging issues there.
Loved the chilled piano music at the start of this episode. Great channel I never miss an episode. Keep up the good work. What will you do when Everything is done on the house ?
Hi Have you considered when doing your tenons. A circular saw for the shoulder cut and chain saw jig for the cheeks? also a thought for the block work put the 40mm excess on the outside and cut an angle from the frame to form a drip edge, thus keeping the internal footprint. Keep up the good work Kevin
There is 150mm of wall build up to sit outside the frame so blocks well covered. 👍 Tenons to follow in next video but drop cut with the big saw for the cheeks. 👌
Just meant that outside of that block course and the frame itself there will be 150mm of insulation and cladding so drip edge not required on the blocks themselves.
You could use a row of thermal blocks (Quinn Therm or similar) instead of regular and keep the 40mm excess to the outside. Carry the insulation down the outside to there and notch out insulation to be continuous. Thermal block will more than mae up for the reduction in cut out insulation and thus cut out any thermal bridging problems.
Its the way to go tim your building a really nice workshop looking forward to seeing it getting buit tim no matter what timber it is the higher of the slab the better especially with bounsing rain the base of timber buildings always look horrible over time
Yes I agree! If you bolt a timber sole plate to a concrete slab water will always get under the timber, if you start to look really closely you see that concrete is not really flat, water is very good at forcing itself into tiny spaces. The other thing is that concrete itself does absorb moisture.
What a lovely broom that is! If adding concrete blocks will this make the building too high? Can you cut the blocks to 7” so you don’t have the frustrating step?
Instead of blocks, why not create a concrete mini wall, by pouring into a wooden mould, with some rebar inside? Gives the height, and with you want exactly.
I Was thinking the same as TheBigChilli small shutter on top of the slab made to the correct width maybe some rebar drilled into base to tie everything together then poured with concrete. Probably more stable than a single coarse of block. Just a thought. Keep up the good work.
This is exactly what I would do and was going to suggest if someone else didn’t already. If you do it, scrabble the concrete to expose aggregate to allow some bond between the 2 elements. Bondcrete or similar products could also help. If you are really concerned about water, you could put a water stop in there as well to stop any seepage through the joint. Although with the infrequent nature of a potential water issue, this is likely overkill.
Does a local builders merchant do concrete bricks? Two parallel rows on their side face would give a 100m high wall thats ~145mm wide? Not sure if that's more or less effort than cutting blocks down.
Not seen the next video. If you're laying the light blocks, couldn't you just cut off the extra width with a hand saw? Also you are adding to the height of the roof 🙂
One thing about timber framing is you better know how to make a cut and have it right cause you don't get a second chance. You can ruin a big piece of expensive wood with one wrong cut. I envy anyone with the skills to do timber frame work.
100x140mm concrete lintels instead of blocks...? More expensive yes, but saves a load of cutting and would be quicker to lay! Ok probably a silly idea ;)
Cut the blocks to 7" would be better. 12" stone cutting grinder shouldn't take more than an hour to cut all of the blocks. Also if you have any room maybe a little French drain in front of the concrete & round the sides.
I would imagine that lapping the dpm over the blocks and then dpc above, it would provide better waterproofing than lapping underneath the blocks and then sitting the dpc above the blocks . Love the content btw thanks!
Not that much DPM left to get up higher but as the panels and cladding will drop down the outside I think we should be good. Plus I have half a tin of liquid DPM to use up so will probably brush that on for good measure. 👍
Thought I would answer a couple of points here to save endless comments. Of course I can cut down all 45 blocks to width, perhaps just feeling lazy when I was filming that part of the video. 😀 also as far as the overall height goes, the post will just be cut shorter to account for the 115mm or so that blocks add. 👍
*waits anxiously to see if you DO cut them down to size* 🧐 it would make another good short video where you can rant/mumble away to yourself entertainingly!
Why are you so concerned about height? Your ‘novel’ roof is dual slope, therefore 4m to play with. I wondered how you were going to protect the sole plate because it sitting on concrete base. Perhaps tannelised sole plate on top of a dpc?
@@TWOKDOK1 It still needs to be under 2.5m for permitted development rules (ie. to build without requiring planning permission).
To use a 4m roof you have to be more than 2m away from the boundary to the next property.
Looking forward to this build.
Could you not cut the blocks down to 7inch??
Love the fact the videos are constant. Been watching a while now, you’ve been an inspiration for my and my own DIY...I have plenty to get on with!
A masterclass in mortising. Tim you are a magician!
I like the quick staff meeting at 6:46 - you could inhale some air from a balloon, say that helium affects your voice but it also makes you work really quickly. If you leave a video on half speed it sounds like you've had a stroke. Quite interesting to find out what the changes of speed can do on youtube. I'd change the speed of the videos to about 1.25 of normal speed - it can make you look more intelligent.
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻Loving the staff meetings..I chuckled 🙋🏻♀️💕🇬🇧jane
Cut the blocks down to 7" width? With a masonry disc on your big grinder it wouldn't take more than an hour or two!
100% agree! Don’t give up the floor space and keep the inside wall flush! Get to cutting !
100% cut the blocks down to size
Thx for answering my questions last night. The timber framing book has some good advice on fixings dpm etc etc p66 - 76. If you are dropping a few anchors on your sole plate it sounds like you will have to get the TITAN out Tim!
You could use the 40mm above the concrete blocks for services, run all your power/air/water(?) in a little trunk over the concrete block. Keeps things tidy, makes a good spot for low down power points, run plumbed air through the workshop without having to cut into your beams, etc.
Ooh that’s a nice slick 👌
You know you're in big when one of the smaller timbers is a 4x7! Been keeping an eye out for a second hand makita chain mortiser for a year or so now but no luck yet. You're building exactly what I had planned, so pleased you're doing this series!
Just check condition of the chain if you do find one as they are around £300 to replace I think!
I picked up a newer Ryobi with brand new chain for 900. Ebay. Just be mindful of the voltage.
I've discovered your channel and I'm in absolute awe. How do you have the so much skill and knowledge
Love the effort you put into the first part of the video. It is great!
I Like Jo's editing style!
It's working well, the tag team evening edit. She cuts out all the nonsense and me chatting away too much and I just get to make it a little bit fancy before it goes out.
Looking great Tim, hats off to your video editor, Jo 😎
Depending on the thickness of the insulation you are using and if it is the thick foam board type- If you are insulating the outside of the building and cladding it all the way to the ground, could you have the blocks stick out and cut the insulation to form around the protruding block and then the finished cladding would cover that? Does that make sense? I wish I could draw what I mean lol
This is what I’d do too. Put the 50mm step on the outside, insulate down to it (or notch the bottom of the insulation if it’s thicker than 50mm) and sail the cladding over the top edge of the blocks - leaving a small gap along the bottom.
The only thing you gain by putting the step on the inside (or cutting the blocks down) is the ability to continue the insulation full thickness over the blocks. But you’re always going to have to leave a gap so your insulation and cladding isn’t in contact with the ground, so realistically, you only gain a couple of inches more insulation coverage. I don’t see the point.
@@BunkerMentality exactly what I've said as well. Also mentioned doing a course of thermal blocks instead of regular to help with insulation lost due to the notch cut out - no thermal bridging issues there.
The big tools back again 👌
Loved the chilled piano music at the start of this episode. Great channel I never miss an episode. Keep up the good work. What will you do when Everything is done on the house ?
Hi Have you considered when doing your tenons. A circular saw for the shoulder cut and chain saw jig for the cheeks? also a thought for the block work put the 40mm excess on the outside and cut an angle from the frame to form a drip edge, thus keeping the internal footprint. Keep up the good work Kevin
There is 150mm of wall build up to sit outside the frame so blocks well covered. 👍 Tenons to follow in next video but drop cut with the big saw for the cheeks. 👌
@@TheRestorationCouple "150mm of wall build up to sit outside"? I was referring to the new blocks you said about in the last video.
Just meant that outside of that block course and the frame itself there will be 150mm of insulation and cladding so drip edge not required on the blocks themselves.
You could use a row of thermal blocks (Quinn Therm or similar) instead of regular and keep the 40mm excess to the outside. Carry the insulation down the outside to there and notch out insulation to be continuous. Thermal block will more than mae up for the reduction in cut out insulation and thus cut out any thermal bridging problems.
Its the way to go tim your building a really nice workshop looking forward to seeing it getting buit tim no matter what timber it is the higher of the slab the better especially with bounsing rain the base of timber buildings always look horrible over time
Yes I agree! If you bolt a timber sole plate to a concrete slab water will always get under the timber, if you start to look really closely you see that concrete is not really flat, water is very good at forcing itself into tiny spaces. The other thing is that concrete itself does absorb moisture.
Always love watching you work on oak...
by the way, t-shirt? really, Tim???? no need to show off you're in the Bahamas!!!!! :-))))
Heavy beams gets you warm! Mug on the way, I'll try and send over a tracking when I get chance. 👍
@@TheRestorationCouple Thanks Tim. No hurry :-) btw, correction to my first message. this is Douglas Fir, not Oak, right ? :)
It's not oak sorry to tell you this
Yes Doug fir this time but usually oak. 👍
What a beautiful tool!!
I'm loving these daily videos! 😍
Hi Tim, I'm probably looking for problems that don't exist but are you working to height restrictions and will the block compromise it? Regards Jim.
Presume he'll just shorten his verticals
Correct.
You could use Staffordshire blue single cant brick-wealkers, or flat wall coping stone, to raise the frame.
Looking good!
Could consider using something like the evolution stone saw to cut off the extra 40mm, so it lines up nicely with the floor beam.
I do have a petrol cut off saw, was just feeling lazy when I edited the episode I think. 😂
@@TheRestorationCouple I thought you already had one, but presumed I'd been mistaken.
Amazing work!
What a lovely broom that is!
If adding concrete blocks will this make the building too high?
Can you cut the blocks to 7” so you don’t have the frustrating step?
Shorter posts same height. 👍
Use a 190 block....but what are you fixing your base plates down to the slab with?
Instead of blocks, why not create a concrete mini wall, by pouring into a wooden mould, with some rebar inside? Gives the height, and with you want exactly.
I Was thinking the same as TheBigChilli small shutter on top of the slab made to the correct width maybe some rebar drilled into base to tie everything together then poured with concrete. Probably more stable than a single coarse of block. Just a thought. Keep up the good work.
This is exactly what I would do and was going to suggest if someone else didn’t already. If you do it, scrabble the concrete to expose aggregate to allow some bond between the 2 elements. Bondcrete or similar products could also help. If you are really concerned about water, you could put a water stop in there as well to stop any seepage through the joint. Although with the infrequent nature of a potential water issue, this is likely overkill.
Brilliant.
What will adding the blocks do for the overall height limit, or was that all factored in?
Just shorten my posts as tenons not cut yet.
Cant you lay the 9” block and grind it flush when its done?
That belle mixer at 4:40 looks neglected. Please use it
Put your casters 40mm in from the edge then you mobile units will fit flush at working height!
Can you cut each block down to 7 inches with angle grinder to get your space back? It'll take some time but might be worth it for the end result.
Yes, just feeling lazy when I filmed the video. May do that still....
Cut tenons with a hand saw in one hit !!!! Cut cut cut.... chisel chisel chisel!!!! Drove me mad !!!
Does a local builders merchant do concrete bricks? Two parallel rows on their side face would give a 100m high wall thats ~145mm wide? Not sure if that's more or less effort than cutting blocks down.
Love the video’s brilliant job. I wish you lived next door lol 😂
Just buy 6” concrete blocks. 1/2” 0ver hang of timber either side.
Take the blue guard off... it gets in the way on the 2nd and 3rd position angle cuts and eventually breaks anyway.
Terrible isn't it, Ive just always left it up with a spring clamp on.
@@TheRestorationCouple I bought mine 8 years ago, great tool. I honestly do not see the point of the guard as it is a 2 handed operation.
Cut the blocks and also buy yourself a couple of mortice and marking gauges
The block sticking out would drive me insane, would ya consider cutting down the block to suit, or is it not that much of an issue for you?
Cut your blocks to size with still saw 👍😃
Not seen the next video. If you're laying the light blocks, couldn't you just cut off the extra width with a hand saw?
Also you are adding to the height of the roof 🙂
What cad software are you using?
Just Sketchup
@@TheRestorationCouple cool,👍 cheers.
One thing about timber framing is you better know how to make a cut and have it right cause you don't get a second chance. You can ruin a big piece of expensive wood with one wrong cut. I envy anyone with the skills to do timber frame work.
Can't you cut the block down to 7"?
What model is that monster Makita.
It's the only one they do as far as i know, just Google Makita chain morticer, they are around two grand new.😀
@@garethheathcote4988 i mean the circular saw.
Daily uploads, thumbs up
100x140mm concrete lintels instead of blocks...? More expensive yes, but saves a load of cutting and would be quicker to lay! Ok probably a silly idea ;)
Wallchaser them 9" blocks
Why not shutter and cast the upstand, drill and fix some dowels into the slab, tie some re bar to the dowels, simple shutter and fill with concrete.
Would have been an option especially when I poured the slab but now I have a pallet of blocks sat here 😀
What's happeened to your tiny helpers? Wicked chiselling by the way. . .
Cut the blocks to 7" would be better.
12" stone cutting grinder shouldn't take more than an hour to cut all of the blocks.
Also if you have any room maybe a little French drain in front of the concrete & round the sides.
Go woth a retaining wall
I would imagine that lapping the dpm over the blocks and then dpc above, it would provide better waterproofing than lapping underneath the blocks and then sitting the dpc above the blocks . Love the content btw thanks!
Not that much DPM left to get up higher but as the panels and cladding will drop down the outside I think we should be good. Plus I have half a tin of liquid DPM to use up so will probably brush that on for good measure. 👍
Why not just dig a 1-2ft deep x 1-2ft wide french drain around the base and fill it with shingle?? Would be better surely??
Groundworks and drains already set in place.
Do you live near the sea? So many gulls squawking.
There is no sea in those gulls!
@@TheRestorationCouple 😂 👍🏻
Surely you'd just disk cut the blocks to 7" ? 🤔
Wtf was that green pencil thing at the start
Guys only been watching six months or so. Does he do a day job?
Photography or something like that, he's said a few times but a long time ago
Wedding photography.
ifc diy