Great explanation on how the adjustments indicate what each cyclinder does in reaction to the adjustments made. Good information to use on my carbtune vacumn gauge. Thanks
One thing I have found when doing the high speed balance (I use just off idle) when the lock nut is loosened the threaded part of the cable has some wiggle and isnt perpendicular when I adjust the RPM's, then when I tighten the lock nuts this changes the angle of the threaded cable holder and throws off the adjustment. It's a back and forth effort until I get it right.
Very good explanation, after harmonising my oilhead-injection R1200 GS (which is easier, CV carbs is a little more ‘work’). Thanks from the Netherlands!
Really interesting tutorial. I have an old-school mercury manometer, I know how to use it to balance the carbs, but can I also use it to fine tune the pilot setting?
Good work. One thing, I was told by the original inventor that in gauge mode what mattered was getting the same reading for each carburetor via the idle mixture screws. In other words, set each to the highest idle, back out a quarter turn, and then adjust them to match. It also takes a few rounds to get it all set right as each adjustment affects the last. Could be I’m wrong - has happened before. Thanks for posting your videos!
Hi there, If you would use the gauge mode to make the carbs match then you wouldn't need the balance mode anymore. Balance mode is used for exactly that. You bring the vacuum to the same level, just not by changing the mixture screw but by changing the throttle.
@@HeikosGarage I think you misunderstand me. I’m not saying that you are using the gauge mode to balance the carbs, but rather to match the idle air screw settings. The other thing that you are doing differently from what I’ve learned is setting the cable lengths at 3K RPM. I’ve always been told that you should do it just at the point that the cables start to pull. Also, as I understand, the idle should be around 1050 to ensure good oil pressure. Perhaps different strokes as they say. Wish I could have joined the tec day in Minden- I was there two weeks too early. Best, Vince Raker A/M Asia
@@marryjones574 here is quote from the Grok harmonizer instruction sheet. I guess I just followed the instructions. "Start the engine. On the Harmonizer display you will see a left-zero graph and a numeric display that shows vacuum in inches of mercury along with the tach reading. The object is to adjust the idle mixture screw on the right carb such that the vacuum reading is as high as you can make it. Make small adjustments and give the Harmonizer a few seconds to settle after each small tweak. Once you've maximized the vacuum reading for the right carb, shut off the motor. Disconnect the Harmonizer from the right carb, replace the vacuum port screw or cap, and remove the cap from the left carb. Connect the Harmonizer yellow port the left carb. Still in gauge mode, repeat the process of adjusting the idle mixture screw for maximum vacuum on the left carb. Shut off the motor." I made one mistake. I used the red port for gauge mode instead of the yellow which really only effects the rpm indication.
@@marryjones574 I just wanted to make sure I am not missleading you. I went to the original thread on adv rider where Grok himself responded to customer questions. On September 23rd 2011 he posted a long write on how to use the harmonizer. That write up is now available on the Katdash webpage as the official user guide. Link here: katdash.com/harmonizer/ Find the document at the bottom of the page.
here is another post from Grok himself: "No, don't try to equalize the two separate gauge mode readings. The balancer mode compares the two cylinders at the same time. That's the purpose. Reserve gauge mode for fine-tuning mixture on individual carbs, or checking for vacuum leaks."
Thanks for your reply. My BMW R60/6 does note have a vacuum port, that is why the question about the synchronizer STE SK, follow the same steps as in your very good video. Thanks Gerardo. Sorry, there is no vídeo. Regards.
1) - What was the base setting of the idle screw; i.e., how many turns (or fractions of a turn) were the idle mixture screws from the fully closed position? 2) - What was the position of the idle stop screws BEFORE you started the idle mixture (were they touching the throttle arms) ?
What the base setting is depends on the model and year of the airhead. As long as it is running it is good enough as a starting point. After a balancing and mixture adjustment with a vacuum gauge it doesn't matter anymore what the base setting was.
Great explanation on how the adjustments indicate what each cyclinder does in reaction to the adjustments made. Good information to use on my carbtune vacumn gauge. Thanks
Thanks Heiko for the in depth explanations of the adjusting points (air/fuel, idle, and 3000 RPM balance). Just what I was looking for.
Great video!! Thanks for taking the time to film this.
Kudos for taking the time to show us this. Great job!
One thing I have found when doing the high speed balance (I use just off idle) when the lock nut is loosened the threaded part of the cable has some wiggle and isnt perpendicular when I adjust the RPM's, then when I tighten the lock nuts this changes the angle of the threaded cable holder and throws off the adjustment. It's a back and forth effort until I get it right.
This is exactly what I needed to see this morning. Thanks!
Very good explanation, after harmonising my oilhead-injection R1200 GS (which is easier, CV carbs is a little more ‘work’). Thanks from the Netherlands!
Thank you for the tutorial 👍👍👍
Really interesting tutorial. I have an old-school mercury manometer, I know how to use it to balance the carbs, but can I also use it to fine tune the pilot setting?
You should be able to use any vacuum gauge to find the highest vacuum at idle. I would give it a try.
Good work. One thing, I was told by the original inventor that in gauge mode what mattered was getting the same reading for each carburetor via the idle mixture screws. In other words, set each to the highest idle, back out a quarter turn, and then adjust them to match. It also takes a few rounds to get it all set right as each adjustment affects the last. Could be I’m wrong - has happened before. Thanks for posting your videos!
Hi there,
If you would use the gauge mode to make the carbs match then you wouldn't need the balance mode anymore. Balance mode is used for exactly that. You bring the vacuum to the same level, just not by changing the mixture screw but by changing the throttle.
@@HeikosGarage I think you misunderstand me. I’m not saying that you are using the gauge mode to balance the carbs, but rather to match the idle air screw settings. The other thing that you are doing differently from what I’ve learned is setting the cable lengths at 3K RPM. I’ve always been told that you should do it just at the point that the cables start to pull. Also, as I understand, the idle should be around 1050 to ensure good oil pressure. Perhaps different strokes as they say.
Wish I could have joined the tec day in Minden- I was there two weeks too early.
Best,
Vince Raker
A/M Asia
@@marryjones574 here is quote from the Grok harmonizer instruction sheet.
I guess I just followed the instructions.
"Start the engine. On the Harmonizer display you will see a left-zero graph and a numeric display that
shows vacuum in inches of mercury along with the tach reading. The object is to adjust the idle
mixture screw on the right carb such that the vacuum reading is as high as you can make it. Make
small adjustments and give the Harmonizer a few seconds to settle after each small tweak. Once
you've maximized the vacuum reading for the right carb, shut off the motor. Disconnect the Harmonizer from the right carb, replace the vacuum port screw or cap, and remove
the cap from the left carb. Connect the Harmonizer yellow port the left carb. Still in gauge mode,
repeat the process of adjusting the idle mixture screw for maximum vacuum on the left carb. Shut off
the motor."
I made one mistake. I used the red port for gauge mode instead of the yellow which really only effects the rpm indication.
@@marryjones574 I just wanted to make sure I am not missleading you. I went to the original thread on adv rider where Grok himself responded to customer questions.
On September 23rd 2011 he posted a long write on how to use the harmonizer.
That write up is now available on the Katdash webpage as the official user guide. Link here:
katdash.com/harmonizer/
Find the document at the bottom of the page.
here is another post from Grok himself:
"No, don't try to equalize the two separate gauge mode readings. The balancer mode compares the two cylinders at the same time. That's the purpose. Reserve gauge mode for fine-tuning mixture on individual carbs, or checking for vacuum leaks."
I still do it by ear and very happy. I would suggest a line wrench for the cable adjusters.
I have done it by ear on idle but not on 3000rpm. Is it also possible too? 😊
Thanks for your reply. My BMW R60/6 does note have a vacuum port, that is why the question about the synchronizer STE SK, follow the same steps as in your very good video. Thanks Gerardo. Sorry, there is no vídeo. Regards.
Long, but exactly what was needed for the Harmonizer
One for sale on the bay auction ends 10/21/2024
@@peetcgee1528 do you have a link? It seems to be gone.
Vorrei comprarlo ma non è disponibile, esiste un altro simile?
There is something similar but pricey.
thedigisync.com/
Hello. Are the same steps with a synchronizer. Thanks and regards from México.
Pretty much the same. The harmonizer is just a fancy synchronizer.
Mate do you know where I can get a thatcHarmonizer ?
Unfortunately it is not in production anymore. Second hand market is the only way. Good luck.
@@HeikosGarageas a matter of interest, how much were they?
@@adelejones3746 good question. I don't remember exactly. I think it was around $200.
1) - What was the base setting of the idle screw; i.e., how many turns (or fractions of a turn) were the idle mixture screws from the fully closed position? 2) - What was the position of the idle stop screws BEFORE you started the idle mixture (were they touching the throttle arms) ?
What the base setting is depends on the model and year of the airhead. As long as it is running it is good enough as a starting point. After a balancing and mixture adjustment with a vacuum gauge it doesn't matter anymore what the base setting was.
Thanks for the video. Just wondering: in another video for gauge mode you are using the yellow port, and in thisone the red. Is there a difference?
No difference as long as you use only one port.
Sounds complicated compared to CarbMate product.
The procedure would be the same with any carb sync tool.
Dont waste our time
sure, nobody is forcing you to watch it though.