I'll make a few comments. Graham is right, I said it wasn't actually a finished chisel and I have a set or two that I promised for people, and a couple of sets to make for me (in a year and a half of making chisels, I've never kept any of the nicer ones, but I have a lot of failures in the racks in testing methods). The finish work that the chisel would get would rather be no oxide, a little bit of surface cleanup (by hand, not machine) and anywhere there are coarse file marks, they would be "crossed" with finer file work. it's also true that I don't make them for sale as I have a day job, but would like to see kind of a surge of people who want to figure this stuff out, too, and make tools by hand. It's not an instant success kind of thing, but it's not that difficult and if someone is looking to create a self funded hobby or even make a small profit, making good tools is more feasible than making furniture. Someone asked if I could make seaton chest style chisels, I said I was sure I could as I only work freehand, so I haven't got any shape or fixture limitations, and thus that's where we are. This chisel was actually a test chisel for me, but I just sent it to Graham - test as in changing some of the ways I work - how the welds are heated, and how I do heat treatment. If graham manages to break it or find it substandard, it'll be useful information. My page is more of a brain dump than anything else, but the hardness testing results and a subset of stuff that I've made may be worth looking at for ideas. if I can make it, anyone else can - we don't all need to sell each other a million amazon links and proprietary "only way" just to do a couple of simple operations. ofhandmaking.com/things-made/
Thanks David. I appreciate you clarifying your situation and some of the details. I can't imagine how it would fail. It has a nice feel. It's not a rigid lump of steel which feels remote. It's not the right time, and it would not be necessary, but I would gladly use this style in place of my current crop or any other I've had the chance to use.
@@faceedgewoodworking wouldn't last too long on a job site, but it should be suitable for everything short of heavy mortising. As to how failures could occur, I guess if there is any aspect to its using (edge holding, etc) that is less good than a commercially made chisel like LN or LV, then it's a failure to some extent. The steel in it isn't exotic (a modern very clean steel similar to vintage file steels), it should make a better chisel than anything commercially offered outside of japan, and sharpen about as easily as O1 that's a couple of points softer. At any rate, this chisel is somewhat of a test chisel changing some of the making over from propane forge and cutting torch to induction heating, so anything could happen! (I like the choice of ash for paring. As AvE says, feed it a hot lunch. it should mallet ash and beech and other such things without any issue so long as the edge prep is similar to what any other good chisel would need to stand up).
@@daw162 This won't find it's way into my site box 😂. I have very appropriate chisels for that application. The steel knowledge in terms of treatment and type are a bit over my head. It sharpens well on a vintage hone and holds an edge. It sits nicely with my Gabriel Try plane. I draw the line at the period costume though, although a mole skin hat might be dandy.
David is a great chap, humble as any anything as well. He helped me navigate eBay and pick up a washita among countless other times he's advised me. I miss his presence on a certain forum. Glad to see he's still tinkering. I may bother him incessantly for a chisel or two when funds allow. Enjoy the chisel 😃
Hi Hassan. That's great! Having some support with purchases is helpful. But David is kinda next level with stones. I'm not sure there's a stone he's not tried!
I was lucky enough to see and handle all the tools in the Seaton chest my good friend Ted Cole owned the chest it's now being donated to the Horley collection in Sheffield, Graham that's a stunning chisel
I believe I've found a chisel that is quite old. Perhaps it's 18th century old. It's got the same octagonal shaft ending, only with a different handle, same blade only smaller with slightly fluted edges and the handle is of burl. I don't know what kind of wood it's made of but the handle too is octagonal in the middle with a dip and then a vase shape with notches carved nearer to the chisel. However it does have a brass collar on the end of it. Completely straight and unbent blade, very heavy for such a medium sized chisel. I got it for eight pounds at a flea market just to tip you off. Oh and also the end is rounded, again cutting into the octagonal part similar to the front with two more notches on the back. It's inscribed with revelled, a symbol looking like a mushroom with two shoes and O.howarth. it was one of the more impressive finds though however it is more just impressive to me than anything because it's probably of similar high value like the other finds on that day. Wish you luck on finding one and bear in mind that some sellers like to sharpen them with grinders which isn't very good because of the ugly tip finish it leaves, almost as if it was hit with a hammer to give it a forged look. Didn't cut right in but I've sharpened it and now it's a beast, essential part of my tool kit for carving wood and that weight with it's smooth handle from all those years of use being like the finest sandpaper you can find make it a pleasure to use. I'd highly recommend adding one of that kind to your collection. Like a knife through butter provided you use a bolted vise.
Hi Graham, not sure if you take requests, but I would love to see a guide to cut the compound angled legs of a sawhorse to present flat faces forward. I remember you used to have some content on this but it seems to have disappeared. A simple guide is sorely lacking!
Ha, yes! The destroyer of the over confident apprentice. I've had quite a few be drawn in by my statement that compound sawhorses are a difficult job to do properly. They start them, but so far none have finished them.
thanks for the video, and the link to an interesting website. There are definitely some people who take pleasure in buying a shiny new tool, or taking a tool and getting a mirror finish, including when refurbishing (or perhaps "restoring") used tools. With a couple of exceptions my tools are all used and have required work to clean them up ready for use. During that process, I can see the appeal of taking some rusting lump of metal and wood and making everything feel "shiny and new", and occasionally when I first started out I did that. These days I am content to sand the rust from the sole and exposed metal of planes, and from the plate of saws, to ensure they work correctly and don't stain or marr the wood. When needed, I tart up the handles to make them comfortable to use. I can't be bothered to remove paint splotches or re-japan things though, I have little enough shop-time at the moment as it is!
Hi Tim. I hear you. Time is the most precious resource we have. I like the sound of your pragmatic restorations. It's amazing how quickly a tool can be made ready when we focus on the key areas.
I didn't know David has a website until today. I read through a lot his posts, and really enjoyed his writings. I have seen similar shaped chisels used in China. It's interesting how similar woodworking tools are around the world.
Hi Vince. It's rare to find the degree of openness that David provides. I don't think he appreciates how much of a resource he is. Interesting you mention the Chinese chisel. Do they still use the profile now. For some reason I think I've seen an HSS with a similar profile.
Found it www.dictum.com/en/chinese-chisels-babd/chinese-hss-broad-chisel-blade-width-40-mm-700991 . There must be some more traditional versions. I'll have to do some research!
@@faceedgewoodworking I don't know what new Chinese woodwokers use nowadays. But I have seen traditionally trained woodworkers use chisels with that profile though socket not tang. Granted, they are timber framers not furniture makers. But I don't believe furniture makers in China would use a completely different set of chisels. A lot of what David wrote resonated with me. I share the sentiment that forums tends to stuck at beginner's land. I am guilty of thinking and watching too much but doing too little. At least now I am trying to replace passive RUclips watching time with active shop time.
I can understand having one or two (1/4" or 3/8") chisels with a bevel edge. Beyond that, thinking of how I woodwork with hand tools, I don't think a bevel edge is needed. That chisel made by David is fantastic. I have no need for chisels but would like to get one wide on at 1-1/4".
@@faceedgewoodworking Looking forward to it. 7 or 8 years into hand tool woodworking, I realize how little you really need to get started. Even when heavily into it, the amount of tools you need is still really small. I easily work alongside the wall in my garage and can fit all that I need on a 4x8 sheet of peg board. Of course, like many, I"ve bought more than I need. At some point, I plan to sell off the tools that are duplicates of duplicates and the ones I tried and didn't care for. Less tools better.
If you want them think it over because I think that price is outrageous but be quick about as there are other people out there who like that stuff aswell.
@@faceedgewoodworking i i'm working with european chestnut on dovetail box. Grain on your piece is so similar. (the one you use your end grain cut demonstration)
I'll make a few comments. Graham is right, I said it wasn't actually a finished chisel and I have a set or two that I promised for people, and a couple of sets to make for me (in a year and a half of making chisels, I've never kept any of the nicer ones, but I have a lot of failures in the racks in testing methods). The finish work that the chisel would get would rather be no oxide, a little bit of surface cleanup (by hand, not machine) and anywhere there are coarse file marks, they would be "crossed" with finer file work.
it's also true that I don't make them for sale as I have a day job, but would like to see kind of a surge of people who want to figure this stuff out, too, and make tools by hand. It's not an instant success kind of thing, but it's not that difficult and if someone is looking to create a self funded hobby or even make a small profit, making good tools is more feasible than making furniture.
Someone asked if I could make seaton chest style chisels, I said I was sure I could as I only work freehand, so I haven't got any shape or fixture limitations, and thus that's where we are.
This chisel was actually a test chisel for me, but I just sent it to Graham - test as in changing some of the ways I work - how the welds are heated, and how I do heat treatment. If graham manages to break it or find it substandard, it'll be useful information.
My page is more of a brain dump than anything else, but the hardness testing results and a subset of stuff that I've made may be worth looking at for ideas. if I can make it, anyone else can - we don't all need to sell each other a million amazon links and proprietary "only way" just to do a couple of simple operations. ofhandmaking.com/things-made/
Thanks David. I appreciate you clarifying your situation and some of the details. I can't imagine how it would fail.
It has a nice feel. It's not a rigid lump of steel which feels remote. It's not the right time, and it would not be necessary, but I would gladly use this style in place of my current crop or any other I've had the chance to use.
@@faceedgewoodworking wouldn't last too long on a job site, but it should be suitable for everything short of heavy mortising.
As to how failures could occur, I guess if there is any aspect to its using (edge holding, etc) that is less good than a commercially made chisel like LN or LV, then it's a failure to some extent.
The steel in it isn't exotic (a modern very clean steel similar to vintage file steels), it should make a better chisel than anything commercially offered outside of japan, and sharpen about as easily as O1 that's a couple of points softer.
At any rate, this chisel is somewhat of a test chisel changing some of the making over from propane forge and cutting torch to induction heating, so anything could happen!
(I like the choice of ash for paring. As AvE says, feed it a hot lunch. it should mallet ash and beech and other such things without any issue so long as the edge prep is similar to what any other good chisel would need to stand up).
@@daw162 This won't find it's way into my site box 😂. I have very appropriate chisels for that application.
The steel knowledge in terms of treatment and type are a bit over my head. It sharpens well on a vintage hone and holds an edge.
It sits nicely with my Gabriel Try plane. I draw the line at the period costume though, although a mole skin hat might be dandy.
David is a great chap, humble as any anything as well. He helped me navigate eBay and pick up a washita among countless other times he's advised me. I miss his presence on a certain forum. Glad to see he's still tinkering. I may bother him incessantly for a chisel or two when funds allow. Enjoy the chisel 😃
Hi Hassan. That's great! Having some support with purchases is helpful. But David is kinda next level with stones. I'm not sure there's a stone he's not tried!
I was lucky enough to see and handle all the tools in the Seaton chest my good friend Ted Cole owned the chest it's now being donated to the Horley collection in Sheffield, Graham that's a stunning chisel
Peter, wow! That must have been a wonderful experience. Does this mean it's on its way from Rochester? I had no idea Mr Cole owned it. Fascinating!
I believe I've found a chisel that is quite old. Perhaps it's 18th century old. It's got the same octagonal shaft ending, only with a different handle, same blade only smaller with slightly fluted edges and the handle is of burl. I don't know what kind of wood it's made of but the handle too is octagonal in the middle with a dip and then a vase shape with notches carved nearer to the chisel. However it does have a brass collar on the end of it. Completely straight and unbent blade, very heavy for such a medium sized chisel. I got it for eight pounds at a flea market just to tip you off. Oh and also the end is rounded, again cutting into the octagonal part similar to the front with two more notches on the back. It's inscribed with revelled, a symbol looking like a mushroom with two shoes and O.howarth. it was one of the more impressive finds though however it is more just impressive to me than anything because it's probably of similar high value like the other finds on that day. Wish you luck on finding one and bear in mind that some sellers like to sharpen them with grinders which isn't very good because of the ugly tip finish it leaves, almost as if it was hit with a hammer to give it a forged look. Didn't cut right in but I've sharpened it and now it's a beast, essential part of my tool kit for carving wood and that weight with it's smooth handle from all those years of use being like the finest sandpaper you can find make it a pleasure to use. I'd highly recommend adding one of that kind to your collection. Like a knife through butter provided you use a bolted vise.
A bit of Howarth steel is normally a pleasure. Sounds like you found a wonderful tool, thanks for sharing your information.
Hi Graham, not sure if you take requests, but I would love to see a guide to cut the compound angled legs of a sawhorse to present flat faces forward. I remember you used to have some content on this but it seems to have disappeared. A simple guide is sorely lacking!
Ha, yes! The destroyer of the over confident apprentice. I've had quite a few be drawn in by my statement that compound sawhorses are a difficult job to do properly. They start them, but so far none have finished them.
thanks for the video, and the link to an interesting website. There are definitely some people who take pleasure in buying a shiny new tool, or taking a tool and getting a mirror finish, including when refurbishing (or perhaps "restoring") used tools. With a couple of exceptions my tools are all used and have required work to clean them up ready for use. During that process, I can see the appeal of taking some rusting lump of metal and wood and making everything feel "shiny and new", and occasionally when I first started out I did that. These days I am content to sand the rust from the sole and exposed metal of planes, and from the plate of saws, to ensure they work correctly and don't stain or marr the wood. When needed, I tart up the handles to make them comfortable to use. I can't be bothered to remove paint splotches or re-japan things though, I have little enough shop-time at the moment as it is!
Hi Tim. I hear you. Time is the most precious resource we have. I like the sound of your pragmatic restorations. It's amazing how quickly a tool can be made ready when we focus on the key areas.
I didn't know David has a website until today. I read through a lot his posts, and really enjoyed his writings. I have seen similar shaped chisels used in China. It's interesting how similar woodworking tools are around the world.
Hi Vince. It's rare to find the degree of openness that David provides. I don't think he appreciates how much of a resource he is.
Interesting you mention the Chinese chisel. Do they still use the profile now. For some reason I think I've seen an HSS with a similar profile.
Found it www.dictum.com/en/chinese-chisels-babd/chinese-hss-broad-chisel-blade-width-40-mm-700991 . There must be some more traditional versions. I'll have to do some research!
@@faceedgewoodworking I don't know what new Chinese woodwokers use nowadays. But I have seen traditionally trained woodworkers use chisels with that profile though socket not tang.
Granted, they are timber framers not furniture makers. But I don't believe furniture makers in China would use a completely different set of chisels.
A lot of what David wrote resonated with me. I share the sentiment that forums tends to stuck at beginner's land. I am guilty of thinking and watching too much but doing too little. At least now I am trying to replace passive RUclips watching time with active shop time.
@@vinceLi3096 Thanks Vince, that's interesting. I hear you on shop time. The older I get the more I appreciate time being my most valuable commodity.
Awesome
It's a great chisel!
Thank you great content.
I read a couple of his blogs and I enjoy his frankness, appreciate the resource.
No worries. David is very deep into his work. A very talented man.
I can understand having one or two (1/4" or 3/8") chisels with a bevel edge. Beyond that, thinking of how I woodwork with hand tools, I don't think a bevel edge is needed. That chisel made by David is fantastic. I have no need for chisels but would like to get one wide on at 1-1/4".
I share the same opinion Joe. I'm lucky to have the chisel. Hopefully I'll share my full rag-tag collection soon.
@@faceedgewoodworking Looking forward to it. 7 or 8 years into hand tool woodworking, I realize how little you really need to get started. Even when heavily into it, the amount of tools you need is still really small. I easily work alongside the wall in my garage and can fit all that I need on a 4x8 sheet of peg board. Of course, like many, I"ve bought more than I need. At some point, I plan to sell off the tools that are duplicates of duplicates and the ones I tried and didn't care for. Less tools better.
@@joeleonetti8976 with you 💯. Less tools better is a great philosophy 👍
Merci !
No worries 🙂
If you want them think it over because I think that price is outrageous but be quick about as there are other people out there who like that stuff aswell.
I was using the chisel today. It's a lovely tool for me to use. I would like others to give similar chisels a go.
Was that a sweet chestnut?
Hi Nick, some Ash.
@@faceedgewoodworking i i'm working with european chestnut on dovetail box. Grain on your piece is so similar. (the one you use your end grain cut demonstration)
@@Ramplcro ring porous woods I suppose? Sweet Chestnut is a lovely wood 👌
@@faceedgewoodworking Yes. It takes hand tools really well, it's like a softer and less prone to tear oak. And it smells really nice . 😄