A/C Evaporator and Heater Core Replacement - Lexus RX300
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- RX300 was not holding pressure and the problem was isolated to the evaporator core by smell and verified using an ac sniffer tool. The compressor oil odor was noticed after the AC was recharged. The evaporator required replacement.
This video will show in detail the steps involved in replacing the evaporator and heater core. This is a tedious job but I've done it before and took me around 8 hours. For first timers, probably 12 to 14 hours taking your time. The dash and cross member must be removed to get to the heater and evaporator core housing. The wiper motor cowling must be removed in the engine compartment to get access to the supply and return AC and heater core connections on the firewall.
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Parts and Specialty Tools:
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OEM Denso A/C Evaporator:
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You are the reason I have youtube. This deserves an Academy Award.
Thanks!
Unbelievable. You guys are real pro. Great video. I have a heater core clogged in my Lexus ES 350 2008,I will not attempt this job. It would take me 2 month. Thanks You’re helping so many people.
Are you sure it's clogged? Had a similar problem with another car and it turned out to be the jammed blend door motor. Check the supply and return hoses going to the heater core on the firewall. If they're both hot/warm, you don't have a clog. If it is clogged, detached both hoses and blow compressed water through it (via garden hose or power wash pump).
love this video. straight to the point and step by step. You're more helpful than most youtuber's. keep on keeping on and please post more of the fine craftsmanship. Thanks
Thanks for your post and critique. And yes ... we'll keep publishing more DIY videos. Thanks for your support!
off to the dealer I go...….man that was very in depth. Bet I would have extra bolts and nuts when I was done.
I know. Had a few myself.
hhaha
Just completed this repair on my Avalon. It looks worse than it is. Most of the connectors only go one place so you cannot mess them up. Thanks for this video, it really helped!
Good for you and great job! It is do-able if you're patient and thorough.
12 to 14hrs......ahhhhh THANKS, but I can't do this! It would take me probably 2mths to disassemble and maybe 2yrs to TRY reassembling!!!!!! After that it would be junkyard bound. Every hat in my possession is off to you Sir and every mechanic that has to do this job. I love your videos. Well, I'm fixing to change out my little valve cover gaskets
Thanks for your comments! Yes ... there's a lot off stuff to take off but it is do-able. Keep all the parts in the order they were removed.
Wow! At this point, I am just binge-watching your videos! Amazing work! " The Greater The Adversity the Higher the Achievement" Well said! Keep up the great work sir! Thank You!
Thanks for your wonderful post and we'll keep putting out more videos to keep you entertained and enlightened!
I have always flushed my radiator every 2 years never had heater core problems. Basic maintenance saves you from jobs like this.😊
Thanks for sharing!
That won’t save your AC evaporator. As a car ages parts go bad.
Wow! Omg!!! I can’t believe the amount of work involved to change out the evap. Are all Toyota’s like this? Camry 2013
Yup ... pretty much!
The parts may be cheap but the hours of labor make it costy.
This was far more engaging to watch than any Marvel or modern Star wars blockbuster... now I know to never attempt this and just get a bicycle.
Thanks. Job took over 8 hours. Can be done if you're patient and thorough.
Whole lotta patients needed!!! Alone with 4 thousand dollars!!!
Whoa! That much?
Dear wife,
After watching a RUclips video on how tp replace the A/C Evaporator and Heater Core, I bought you a new camping chair, brand new winter coat and some feet and hand warmers to use while driving our Lexus RX350. By the way, ignore that there is no dashboard, seat or console in there anymore, I had to sell them as parts to pay for these other items.
Love
The non-mechanic husband that needs to stop watching RUclips videos on how to fix things.
Yes ... the repair does look daunting!
I respect you for tearing the whole dash of the car to get to the evaporator core and put it back together. I think it designed for one time use. Now I know why my RX 300 and RX330 have the air conditioners working so good. I only replaced the compressor one time for RX300 and a leak on the condenser by the debris on the road for RX330.
The evaporator should last the life of the car. When it doesn't, the car manufacturer didn't design the evaporator for easy replacement.
Quite intimidating !!! hats off to you sir! for your brave quest !
Guess who's NOT doing this job?!!!
Lol just what I thought
Wish my Lexus seat looked like yours. Mine our ripped. Can’t complain, got the vehicle for free 👍
I hear you... Can't beat the price!
I bought my ES330 with a former mice nest above the cabin filter. I've tried ozone which helped lots but still have some odor. At 17:06, you showed the condensate discharge tube is. Just where I needed to know where I can spray evaporator foam cleaner on. Thanks guys, thumbs up!
Good luck!
You lost me at removing the front seats. I will burn my car before I ever attempt this repair!
Well at least you know what's involved if you hired someone else to do it.
Just got a quote from the Toyota dealership about this repair for the AC evaporator. They want 3,500$!!!! That is insane. I know it’s a big job but I’m not paying that. Lexus 2006 ES330
That is a ridiculously high quote. It's around 8 - 9 hours of labor. The part is under $100.
@@hardlymovingpro What do you think a fair price is for that? I know it’s a big job.
Good God! That's insane!
If I were Prez for a day, I would dictate that the Car Manufacturer Office of Nannies [aka CMON] (ie. the Dictating Department), would dictate that AlLL heater cores must have a 1 hr service time for access and replacement.
Make the repair so difficult and expensive you'd rather buy a new car.
ماشاء الله ، عمل رائع جدا ومتقن، شكرا لك
Video title should be "How to dissemble the inside of your vehicle and getting lost."
Yea ... it could seem a little hairy!
My dad and I are doing this right now. I honestly have no clue what I'm doing, but it's all to have cold, blowing air in the car.
Take a lot of photos to have something to reference when putting it back together. Also, keep your parts in sequential order.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the tip!
No problem and good luck!
A plus for Cameraman👍👍 , 🕊️🦅🕊️🦅❤✌🫵🫶 🫶👏 👏 👏
You bet!
No way I can do this work. Your video is fantastic, and I am so informed about the work required. Also, while you have the dash removed, are there other parts that should be replaced besides the AC evaporator? My RX is 2008, so it is 14 years old.
The complexity of removing the dash and time, what would you estimate the labor and part cost for this work?
Thank you for doing this video again!
Thanks! You can consider replacing the motors that control the air mix and air direction. Haven't seen a heat core go bad. Around 8 to 10 hours labor x labor rate + parts.
I thought my Jeep xj was bad holy crap that's a lot of stuff. You sire I can tell loves doing this shit and your excellent at it.
Thanks. Great satisfaction when everything is back together and everything works!
Oh hecks naw!!! Takin mine to my mechanic. Id forget an electrical connection somewhere then have to take the whole dam thing back apart again to find which one not plugged in.........NOPE NOPE NOPE......NOPE!!!! Awesome post BTW!!
It would be a challenging repair doing it for the first time!
That's what I'm saying too!
Thanks for recording step by step it's really helpful. I have one question please help me. After I flushed my heater core I still don't have heat for windshield, it's only heat front of the driver passenger side. Do I need to replace heater core or flush it again
If you're getting heat but not up to the windshield, it could be your air direction motor that's not working.
Great video!
I have a leakage of the air condition gas located by a gauge in area of the air ducts inside the cabin.
I believe this video will be helpful for me;)
Yup ... sounds like you've got a leaking evaporator.
Very thorough video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge
You bet and thanks!
This is that one job when I’d NOPE TF out!
Not a easy repair.
That's a big job. Very tedious and good workmanship. Highlander 2002, V6 3.0, AC loosing refrigerator don't know where the leak is. I keep learning, thanks.
When you have a leak in your evaporator core, you can smell a semi foul smell inside your car when your turn on your ac. Also the condensation dip tube will drip out compressor oil with the water onto the ground.
@@hardlymovingpro
No smell, no oil water mixture at the drain tube. I added sealant, refrigerant and oil. Made a mess. I did when ambient temperature was 20 Celsius. Once driven in the heat, 40 Celsius the pressure went overboard. Smart enough not to run the AC, I sense something wasn't ok. Finished the trip and checked the pressure, release the pressure, got out excess oil, sealant and refrigerant to 30 psi, and top up with refrigerant only. Cools off to 55-60F . Keeping an eye on the pressure. Thank you for your input, and your time.
Don't use refrigerant sealant. It only works for "soft" leaks (i.e. o rings). "Hard" leaks are holes in aluminum, hoses and hose connection points.
@@hardlymovingpro
The pressure slightly dropped but still chilling. It might be a soft leak. Im getting a UV light to use with a dye. Thanks for reply.
Common soft leaks could be worn Schrader valve o rings in either the high or low pressure service connectors. Easy way to check is to use a refrigerant sniffer. Put it next to the port and it will start beeping if any refrigerant molecules are detected. Can also jam the sniffer rod in the vents to pick up possible evaporator leaks behind the dash. Sniffers are not that expensive: amzn.to/3NoZwCJ
Wow!! Great video. I have an Avalon2007. The ac has been topped of due to a slow leak. This past spring the compressor locked up on me. Your opinion on this? I wonder if the compressor shaft was my leak? If I try to replace the compressor with a new condenser and desiccant I might get away without doing the evap? What’s my chances? Your not on the hook at all. 😂
A slow leak will also leak oil. Just adding refrigerant with no oil will burn out your compressor. Best to replace the compressor with the condenser. Evaporator need not be replaced.
Unbelievable. I love my 2000 Rx300. I wanted to rebuilt is but probably cost prohibitive. Are you worried about issues or missing something during reinstallation?
Not really. Place everything taken off in serial order.
I like your video. It's very good 👍
Thanks for the visit!
Great job
Complex job
Done by
Great man❤️
Sorry for the late response but thanks for your comments!
excellent developed skill, really appreciate your for sharing.
Thanks!
Great video! leaned a lot from it. Does the receiver drier need to be replaced after you replace the evaporator?
Not a bad idea but integrated with the condenser and hard to get too. Might as well replace the condenser as well.
I know if I were doing it, 50% of those damn cable tie downs would be going back on.. thank God for Zip Ties. Huge job, had to even take out the dreaded, 'Tube'. Hell of a job bro, as always.
Thanks Sean! Appreciate your comments and support!
Can I really unplug the Evaporator connection with any car? Without taking off the pressure of the AC? Thank you for the video
Not possible
wondering how long it took you to do this job! Because labor code comes out to around 6 hrs. Great work with details
Thanks ... Around 8 hours plus with some help.
I took my car to the shop because there's no air coming out from the front vents it's all coming from the bottom underneath and the defroster vents. They told me about 2 hrs labor to dismantle around $200.00. Now I know it'll be close to $1000 might as well get a new (used) car. Thanks for the video!!
@@mrram2603 It's either your air direction control unit (that knob on you HVAC panel with a picture in the background pointing to your feet, towards the front, up to your window, etc.) or behind the dash an electric motor that moves an air flap or door that controls the direction of air. More than likely, its the electric motor that moves the door. They fail when the teethes in the plastic gear break off. You can usually hear a clicking noise when it fails. With most cars, if the mechanic knows where to look, can unscrew the unit out and install a new unit. 2 hours labor and $200 cost seems reasonable for a mechanic to spend the time and effort (if he's never done the job on the type of car your own). $1000 is outrageous and you should shop for another repair facility to do the job. If you look at the 17:44 minute mark in the video, those black things attached to the white housing controls air direction doors.
@@hardlymovingpro Hello. What would cause both the heater core and evaporator to go out at the same time? I have a 08 Lexus es350 that I'm about to take this adventure with. It started with antifreeze in the carpet and loosing freon. I bypassed the heater core just to be able to keep using the car. The same day I noticed the ac quit working. A friend of mine put his manifold gauges on it and shot freon through the lines and it was coming out as fast as it was going in. We took the cabin filter off and we could feel just about all the air whooshing out. This looks like a stupid design IMO.
@@hardlymovingpro also what do you recommend be replaced while you're in there? It looks like you had an expansion valve? Im no mechanic but Im confident I can do this myself.
E.X.C.E.L.L.E.N.T.
Thanks so much!
You're welcome!
Very good video 👌 keep up the good work.
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Is the evaporator = heater core.
or evaporator is different than heater core
holy mother of god. No way
It can be done!
The brass balls on this guy.
Nothing ventured, nothing gained!
Dude your video is very informative, for a tinker like me I've learned so much about this. Can I ask you a question, my AC works but my heater does not, do I have to go through the same way to fix my heater?
Disconnect the heater hoses on your firewall and blow out any sediment in your heat core with water pressure from your garden hose.
Also check that your blend door motor is working
Thank you so much...@@hardlymovingpro
Happy to be of service with this video!
My pleasure!
good Job!! Ifound out how to remove the Evap with no removing the dashboard, cut off the heater line near the Evap box, took off eight/nine screw form the Evap box, disconect expansion valve and VIOLA!! , of course I live int the caribe so dont need heater core.
Thanks for sharing!
Excellent 👌
Thanks 😁!
Very nice work 👌👌
Thanks !
Tough job. My 09 Highlander is going through this now.
I know. Take your time doing the repair and take photos along the way to remember how everything goes back together.
This looks just like a Toyota Venice I just finished it's definitely not a beginner job but if you have common sense it's not that bad
You're right! It can be done with common sense and patience.
Yes, it is beautiful... and very impressive! Would you mind telling what year and how many miles?
150,000 miles and year 2000.
@@hardlymovingpro - Thank you for the answer. Now I am a little more scared of the RX. What about the ES and LS? Do they also have this kind of issue and same difficulty to get to the evaporator?
The ES is about the same. The LS, (1992) believe or not, isn't as bad. You can get to the evaporator via the glove box. The evaporator housing can be detached from the heater core housing and pulled out. Therefore there's no need to take out the dash and the remove the tubular cross member. The nightmare was the return pressure control diaphragm unit. It's a mechanical device with an internal valve that was struck closed due to rust corrosion on the diaphragm's shaft. This is a $600 part! I spend around 3 hours taking it apart and got the shaft moving again using a punch tool, emery cloth, penetrating oil and drill chuck. Anyway, the owner's ac has been ice cold for the last three years. The dealer quoted over $2,500 to replace EVERYTHING and the local repair shops didn't want to touch the repair!
@@hardlymovingpro - "Holy Shift"! That was some work... Did you give him a brake on the price? (Compared to the dealer). I heard somebody say that all the Lexus LS 1st generation (1990-1994) are the way you are saying you can get to the evaporator via the glove box... Is it true?
I did it for free because the owner is my video editor, composer, camera man, etc. This is a 30 minute video and we choose not to publish the re-construction since most people's attention span wouldn't go that far. Between the two of use, we did in around 8 + hours.
Yes ... the LS400 is much easier to do since you're going through the glove box.
This video is awesome
Thanks!
Fantastic video. Pretty intimidating though. How similar is the process for an '05 ES330?
Thanks ... Pretty much the same. Layout for the center dash removal would be different. You may want to get a freon stiffer electronic tool to verify the leaks is definitely coming from the evaporator. They're pretty cheap on Ebay.
Sooooo, the logical question is how long and how much should any shop (not named dealership) should reasonably charge for a job like this???
Can only quote you the labor time which I'd say is 8 hours.
Admire your patience 😀
😊 thanks!
Very useful video
Thanks!
Great work.
I also wanted to thank you, because I've been looking to take out my ECU behind glove box (to test) and there is literally no info on screw placement for behind glove box plastic wall that hides ECU and BCM. Thank you
You bet ... no problem.
❤ Great work
On the other hand TOYOTA/ Lexus is not intelligent enough to design a vehicle in which a minor component replacement needs a major replacement, TOYOTA/ LEXUS need to revise their design.
I hear ya and with you on that!
will the ac work and not the heater if you have an heater core issue?
Two separate systems combined in a plastic HVAC box. A blend door channels cabin air to either the heater or evaporator core or a combination of both. If the heater core is clogged it will not effect the ac if cool air is desired.
Ill just buy another car.....Holy shmoly! I got a 92 SC400, dreading the day I tackle this.
On some Lexus models (i.e. LS400) the entire dash does not need to be removed. You can get to it via the glove box.
Excellent 🙏🙏🏅🏅👋👋👍👍
Thanks for your support.
Wow, great video. I'm about to do the same thing to my Lexus IS300. Where did you get the insulating packing tape to put around the expansion valve and tubing?
Thanks for your comment. You can get it from Lowes or Home Depot in their HVAC department.
@@hardlymovingpro Well I got it done. All new Denso compressor, condenser, evaporator, and expansion valve. Flushed all the lines out and new seals. 2 weekends of my life but I saved about $3000. Evaporator and expansion valve were very challenging. This job is definitely not for the faint of heart. For a first timer this requires alot of research, pictures, lots of note taking and PATIENCE. High and low side after filling were 30/210. Outside temperature 93F and blowing 40F at the vent.
Great job doing it all on your own! Yes ... there's a lot of work involved but very satisfying when you get it working again. FYI - the system should take over 24 oz (2 cans) of freon. 30 psi on the low side may be a little low. You want it north of 35 psi.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for that. Dont know if I'm just paranoid or what, but when I rev the engine some I think hear the compressor roar a little. The compressor engages quietly and I can hardly hear it when engine runs at idle. Maybe that's normal and I didnt pay attention to it before. Would low r134a cause that? The compressor was pre filled with oil at the factory. I added 2 cans of r134a but may have lost a little while purging the gauge lines of air before adding it to the ac system. Any insight you have would be greatly appreciated.
Maybe the noise is coming from the compressor's clutch
How in the hell do you figure out how to get that all back together correctly not to mention without breaking half of the plastic panels, fasteners, and connectors? That is absolutely insane!
I know. But you try the best you can. Keep the parts in the order you removed them, and take pictures for reference.
I dit it 5 years ago and no parts left....make a check list and like he said, take some pictures and notes
If you have a coolant leak in heater core will it drip out evap drain line?
That's correct.
Thanks for video
My pleasure!
Out of curiosity, what did the PAG compressor oil smell of? Is it an acrid smell, like the one overheating electrical stuff/wires/circuit boards make?
Can't really say that PAG oil gives off a specific smell; but leaking freon has its own unique and distinctive odor.
@@hardlymovingpro First of all, thank you very much for your answer. All around the Internet they seem to say two things: that the actual R-134A hasn't got any odor at all, and that the odor an evaporator leaking R-134A gives off comes from the oil (it dissolves in the refrigerant so that it can be carried around the system). Also, the majority of people define the odor as the one a fresh Band-Aid gives off, but i've tried to carefully smell an equivalent i can readily buy, and the bandage doesn't seem to give off any smell at all. Some also say that it smells like the smell a new car interior usually gives off... As for now, can't smell anything out of the ordinary out of my vents, but it's an old old car, so knowing what a PAG leak, and hence a refrigerant leak, really smells like, might be useful. I could also buy a PAG oil bottle, but it would never be put into use since i can't do AC repairs, and nobody i know would accept an opened bottle even if it's the double end capped PAG. It would just end up lying among my stuff unless i find some alternative use for it (chain lube?). PS Never seen red dyed PAG in any picture i've seen so far, only green. Does it glow red to UV light perhaps?
I can't describe the smell but its different than a gas or oil smell. It permeates the interior when the car is running and there's a freon leak in the evaporator core after a freon re-charge. The red dye came from an a/c metal leak sealer product that did not work. PAG is used to identify a refrigerant oil type and is followed by a number. Never heard of anyone referring to a a/c leak as a PAG leak. Generally speaking, any place in the a/c system that's leaking freon will also leak out PAG oil.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for clarifying the red colour anyways. If i'll ever happen to get my hands on a PAG compressor oil bottle or sample, i'll surely come back here and try to describe its smell the best i can. And a happy new year by the way!
Thanks ... good luck ... and happy new year to you as well!
Hardly Moving - How can I get in touch with you???
Email me @ Hardlymoving@gmail.com
Good grief that is a lot of work, I think I would just learn to live without AC, or just buy a new car. :) If I was doing this, that car will never be the same after after I was done. I am just curious how many extra parts did you have after it all went back together? Oh yea here is that part we forgot to but in back on step six hundred and thirty two, huh what step are we on now? Two thousand and thirty three, should we go back and put it back in?
The AC works but five other things don't now and there are all sorts of squeaks and rattles. 😂
Just a few extra 10mm bolts. No squeaks and rattles.
@@hardlymovingpro That is impressive, and also why I would pay someone else to do a job like this. Or live without AC, or just get another car. 🙂
Thanks for sharing, it just confirms what I already suspected, which is that this is a job best left for an experienced professional. While a DIY person might be able to do it, they will end up taking ten times longer, and most likely end breaking something else in the process.
I got a beater I'm thinking I could cut those metal core lines slide heater core out run rubber hose from new core to connections at fire wall just a thought if mine went out and if it could slide out with box still in the car
Don't known if that'll work.
Anyway to get to the expansion valve with having to remove everything else?
Sorry and to add to the comment. It's a lexus 99 rx 300
2000 RX300. Never tried to remove just the expansion valve.
You did not have to remove dash . I just removed the glove box air box heater core and removed it from inside . Unless a 2000 is just that much easier ?
I have no idea how you were able to pull that off. The evaporator is completely encapsulated in the two piece housing bolted to the firewall.
@@hardlymovingpro watched another video after yours only because this vehicle isn't worth the money , You have to remove the lines from the heater core remove the 2 actuator motors , You can see in your video @17:27 between your elbow and the heater core lines is the access point for the core . Open that remove 2 screws from the drivers side and it slides right out . I removed both seats and the glove box door , Did remove the wipers and cowl which you really don't have to . I put in a new heater core so I had to cut the heater core lines and added 2 hoses a 4 clamps . Like I said this car wasn't worth the time , I really appreciate your video because it really helped me Identify everything , The other guys video kinda sucked but it was the lazy mans way out . Yours is the only way if you want to do the heater core and evaporator correctly just because of the lines for the heater core . A+ and thumbs up to you .
@@stabg289 send me the link to the other video
I should be thankful that removing the evaporator is so much easier in my 2002 Sienna... however, I'm stuck. Hoping you've maybe done one before and know what I'm describing in my question. There's some "rivets" (per service manual and haynes manual) that I need to remove that are holding the evaporator cooling unit case to the foot of the wall. I've never heard of rivets until now. They look like studs, but instead of there being a hex nut, it's like a cylindrical nut with a flange at the wall. I couldn't figure out how to remove them on a Sienna at the junkyard. I was attempting to twist the head of it since it looked like it was screwed onto the stud portion of the "rivet". I was googling all about rivets and still really couldn't understand how I might remove these. Any idea? I also cannot find a video online to help me that is specific to my older Sienna :(
Rivets are used a lot in aviation to hold aircraft panels together without nuts/bolts and to blend with the panel's surface. Easy way to remove them is to drill the center out and use a center punch to drive them out.
hi, do you refer all data or mitchelle to look at varous bolts to remove dash board. every car is different.. i do know that central console, steering column , airbag attached to cross member have to come out plus almost all wiring. What i dont know is list of bolts that front dashboard is attached to.. any help is greatly appreciated.
I use to when I worked at the dealership. Now I just start taking things off and place them in the order I removed them. Also I take pictures to reference when putting it back together.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks I have 2013 camry, recently rebuild transmission, at that time, i asked him to change rear main seal , he did it.. it is OEM as well. now i see a leak betwen transmission and engine joint, it is engine oil, not pink.. i dont know how to find out if it is coming from rear main seal, there is a plastic that i can remove to see the flex plate and that looks dry. any help is appreciated.
@@sivucit sounds like your guy messed up installing the rear main seal or installed a substandard seal....assuming the fluid is not red.
They should require by law to make these easily replaceable. Slide out the old and slide in the new. Or put them in an easier location to get at. Not having to remove the dash.
I hear you!
Will you make video how to remove dash and evaporator core on Highlander? I need to remove dash , evaporator core and replace blend doo actuator.
Sure ... when a have a customer approach me with Highlander needing a new evap core.
What insulation tape is that and where can I find it? Link?
Got it from the HVAC depart at Lowes or HomeDepot.
Yeah, no thanks. I'll just keep buying refrigerant every 2 months until the doors fall off LOL
I hear ya!
Thank you for this vidio
Our pleasure!
How does take to do this ??? My 2007 lexus is250 evaporator is bad
Depends on your skill level and the tools you have. I can do it in under 3 hrs.
what's the name of those pliers your using to help separate the connectors?
push pin pliers
Doing this today. Thanks for the video
You bet and good luck!
Thanks for this. This is on my to do list, not looking forward to it.
Let us know it turns out!
Very tough job..... mechanic would ask thousand dollar to get this done
I love these jobs.. Big money makers....Most would rather change an engine transmission swap. Then do these...
Actually, for me, an engine or transmission swap is easier IMHO. Check out this swap I did: ruclips.net/video/T8QZKKUmV0I/видео.html
Q, Can you replace the expansion valve without taking the entire AC unit out of the car? Book time says 2.8 hours for expansion valve, I wonder if that is legit?
Never tried. But don't see how it can be done if the valve is behind the firewall and wrapped with insulation material.
Please suggest me a luxury car of any brand post 2010 model , a/c heater core of which can be changed through the glove box
I think the Acura MDX.
What kind of insulation tape did you use to put around the expansion valve
HVAC (thick rubber) pipe insulation wrap that I purchased at my local HomeDepot or Lowes. Matched the factory wrap perfectly!
Thank you so much. I’m getting ready to replace the evaporator on a 2007 Toyota Sienna. Thanks for getting back to me right away. Much appreciated.
@@Wheredthecheesego Good luck! Keep everything you removed in the order you removed them and take photos along the way. It can be repaired!
Man ..i just bought a used lexus rx350 2009 2 weeks back..everything works fine..except the a/c..changed the compressor and the condenser..improved a little..but never getting cold enough air..and the airflow is bad..now mechanic told me the car's heater core is clogged..he would not touch it..but he gives an estimate it is a 3 days work..and the job would cost north of 2000 usd..i bought the car for 4.5k thinking i got a good deal..now i am on the hunt for a naive buyer like me..wish me luck.
Mechanic quoted you 3 days work because he doesn't want to do the work unless he gets paid 3X the normal rate. Should only be a 8 hour job if you know what you're doing. Clogged heater cores can be blown out with high pressure water. Shop around for another repair shop to get a more accurate assessment of problems and repair quote.
Yeah fck that im paying a mechanic to do this. I can't believe it's that big of a problem to replace a $80 part. Labor is probably going to be damn near $400
$400 is a pretty good price quote. It's around a 8 hour job and the a/c has to be evacuated and recharged after installation.
Mine stop blowing to the front, tested the Mode servo, damage, tested the Blend servo, damage also, ordered and received both, replaced, tested, both working fine now BUT no cooling. I hope is not the evaporator. Don't trust anybody to do a job like that, 20 years ago may take me 3 days to do that, now at 68 years old at least a week. Crossing fingers now, will take somewhere for testing this week.
Could be the air mixture (blend door) motor. Turn on a.c. and listen for compressor motor engaging and check that the a.c. high pressure line is cold.
How did you guys find out it was a bad evap?
Leaking PAG oil via the condensation release tube under the car. Also used a AC sniffer tool that picked up leaking refrigerant from the HVAC vents.
@@hardlymovingpro ohh the ac sniffer tool sounds useful then. car hvac is tough work.
Finding the leak source is!
@@hardlymovingpro i would just replace everything if its an old car. The ac system is too sensitive to any mistakes.
I had a customer quoted $2,400 to replace everything when the repair shop couldn't find the leak source. It turned out to be one of service port Schrader valve (less than a $1.00 part?). Using a quick connect to test for vacuum leakage or pressure leakage would have never found the source since the quick connect depresses the Schrader valve. When the quick connect is removed, the o ring in the valve is suppose to maintain a seal. Defective o ring, no seal. I replaced the valve, evacuated and recharged. Refrigerate leakage problem resolved.
Who makes that connector tool you are using?
Connector tool to what? Reference the time mark in the video?
Lisle 42050 Push Pin Pliers - I think that's what you are asking about
Are All Lexus ES are like this
ES is a little easier than the RX but not by a lot.
I would have sold the car. I hope this does not fail on my 2004 Ls430.
You'd be hard pressed to find a buyer with a non functioning ac systems ... but I know how you feel. LS vehicles are different. I replaced the evaporator on a '92 LS400 through the glove box area. Didn't have to rip the dash apart. Don't know if the 430 uses the same design.
I am nauseated by the amount of work and I’m only 6 minutes in
I hear ya! No easy way around it ... lot's of stuff to remove!
And I thought changing the valve cover gaskets and spark plug tubes were hard :/
You said it brother!
GREAT how too I was hoping to not do this so maybe you can answer a question before I have to do this. I have heat on one side not the other in all modes. Car does NOT have dual climate like yours.
Is there a diverter or flap inside that heater core box that may be blocked?? For life of me I can't see why cold air blows on drivers side and hot on pass in all modes IE defrost, face flow etc. I am about to go to junk yard to do exactly this just to buy a HCB to investigate why my is doing this. Even if I can jimmy it to just blow hot only Im fine with that but cold on one side not fine with. YES I have fixed servos, back flushed, replaced thermostat everything has been isolated to **inside** the HCB suggesting a blockage of some type any help or insight would be great. Not sure what Jaddah was referring too either but the internet is free and full of opinions some not worth your time honestly
Great Video it will help lots be pround and us out there are thankful you made it
Thanks. From my recollection working on a Chevy Impala a few years ago, I replaced 3 blend door actuators and the the car did not have dual controls. How I found their location was to have someone play with the temp control while I listened for slipping gear noise.
On a 99 Ford F150 I worked on a few years back, I bought a Dorman kit to replace the broken hinge on the blend door. I was surprised that this commonly occurs on this model. So, it's possible your blend door hinge point may be broken or jammed.