I've been getting many more questions in the comments, sorry I can't answer them all BUT, I can highly recommend the guides for self installers available at www.stovefitterswarehouse.co.uk. Go to the "Quick Guides & FAQ" section where there is loads of useful information including the "Stove fitter's Manual". If you are in the UK they also supply flue products and stoves that have been chosen/tested for quality and value, I'll be buying from them for my next install. I couldn't put together all the info they have compiled, it really is a valuable resource, well worth a look.
@@matthewwarrington6006 You can fit a stove directly to a chimney if it is in good condition but you would need a metal register plate with access for sweeping. However a modern stove works much more efficiently with a liner, the extra draw you get with warmer flue gasses can make a big difference to how well the works.
From what I have found out (UK); ''Whenever you have a woodburning stove installed in a fireplace, you will have a plate above the stove blocking off the bottom of the chimney. The plate must be made of solid, non-combustible material. You may hear this plate referred to as a “Closure” or “Register” plate. Although these terms are often used interchangeably by some people, there is an important difference between them. A Register Plate should always be fitted whenever a stove vents DIRECTLY into the chimney (ie if the chimney is sound and there is NO flue liner connected directly to the stove or stove pipe). The purpose of this register plate is to ensure no fumes, especially Carbon Monoxide, escapes back into the room. The Register Plate must therefore be sealed around the edges and around the stove pipe. The Register Plate must also have an access hatch to enable the chimney to be swept. CLOSURE PLATE performs a different purpose. It is essentially cosmetic and can also reduce heat loss into a chimney which is lined with, for example, a stainless steel flexible flue liner. Because the stove is directly connected to the flue liner, the Closure Plate is not required to be tightly sealed in the same way as a Register Plate; it also does not need an access hatch for sweeping as this will take place either through the stove or, where fitted, through a removable sweeping plate on the stove pipe. If your chimney has been thoroughly swept before the flue liner was installed, there should be minimal soot deposits collected over time on the top of it''.
My husband is fitting his now, your video was of immense use, he's a builder, and has built many a fireplace in the past, and he watched it all the way through, even telling me to shush, which i may add is pretty significan,t, , as you answered a few questions , ie, the register plate, and the tip on cutting the pipe, and also , to fianly the use of silicone as a filler , he was most impressed. Would reccomend anyone to watch your video, extremely helpful, many thanks.
Just to say if a brick did fall on steel it would leave a massive dent as it doesn't need to be any thicker than 2mm . Most use the lighter stuff anyways. Cement board is just as good
This fire pit is one of a few covered pits that is on the list ruclips.net/user/postUgkxAU9pOCSV9Y5JprooHvfxTpOrt4hx8uRM of approved products for Disney Fort Wilderness. The product served its purpose well and provided excellent fires throughout the evening. We were able to open the door and do s'mores, but I had to be careful because the handle was a bit hot on occasions. Additionally, I wish they had replaced some of the standard nuts with lock nuts in some places. We lost the door handle after just a couple of days of usage. Not a deal breaker, just a recommendation. I still give it 5 stars.
2.17am UK time, the best enjoyable video i have watched in a long time, commentary was awesome, as another comment posted, you also kept me intrigued the entire video. I shall have a look at your other videos, well made video, no nonsense, yet brilliant camera work, very educational and formative. Thank you for your efforts.
Agreed. Best how to on RUclips. The headcam helped, as it gave us a 'fitters-eye-view' of the process, with all the 'boring' bits chopped out. RUclipsrs could learn a lot from this. 5 Star video as it gives me a lot of confidence to fit my own.
iDoStuff, I've been using your videos to help me install my own stove. I've had to learn bricklaying and plaster-boarding along the way also. I used the hardie backer for the inside of the fireplace and also used it for the closure plate as many of my bricks were untidy. Will get the local building regs to sign it off. Thanks for a thoroughly enjoyable video and helpful hints. You gave me the confidence to start this project.
Just like to say thanks for putting video up. This saved me a small fortune as people wanted to charge the earth to do it for me. Took me a few hours but got it done. Thanks again. 👍
Great job, that is not an easy install!! I’ve been learning the trade for a year now and I’m loving it. I like to watch these videos as everyone has their own little ways of doing things. Nice to get a few tips thank you
This is simply the best and most through video of any diy project effort I've ever seen. I am currently in the process of converting/renovation a whole 3 bed house on my own, Well done you and thanks.
Loved the video, learnt something from the comment section to, you don't have and support installed like in your damage test, the board will fail if a brick hit from high enough with no support to dampen to impact. Still a good video 😉
Just brilliant. I'm just about to connect up the flue liner and thought I'd check it out on You Tube. Really confident now. That idea to use a cement board instead of a metal plate is something I'll use in future.Thanks
Being female I thought I might be lost but you made it look so easy and I feel confident in installing one in my place. Thanks for a great 'How To Do' video.
What a show buddy! Clear instruction, via explanation & demonstration. Just what I'm used to from my time in the services. Thanks very much!! God bless you and keep up the good work.
I have just oped a fireplace up fo a customer, purely for aesthetics. Chatting with customer while we were doing it and the log burner was a possibility they would look into in the future. The drilling was also tricky, as you mentioned in the video. The specification for the opening made the drilling, let's say entertaining 🤣....you see the customer wants the aperture flush front to back on the sides and head (register plate), without the recessed area and.......set up in a way that it can be plastered in, and when the fire gets installed in a few years it can be done with no damage or mess. We constructed an aluminium support frame using 40mm x 40mm, x 3mm angle profile, sounds simple 😆 we had a laser level set up 10mm below the concrete lintel, pre drilled 1.2m length of angle section, 1st piece was the back and was easy and then the front piece lol, ah drill won't fit.....no worries ill swap the sds and use the combi drill on hammer action which is not as big..... nope, same problem 😆, right there is a short masonry bit in the tool box, with the combi drill...problem solved........🤣 .... nope, right thats it... time to embrace the caveman in me, grab the grinder, attach a slitting disc and proceed to whip off the shank that is round and designed for a Jacobs chuck all the way to the spiral and "encourage" the trusty combi to hold said doctored bit while spinning true and not wheebling and wobbling.....holes need to be drilled 15mm the lintels edge, no pressure 😂......hey Presto it fits, sorted 👌........NOPE 🤦 I mentioned previously the laser level line was set 10mm below lintel, this is where it started to resembled a chuckle brothers episode 🤣 I'm sat in the chimney facing into the room, my colleague is holding the angle in place, I cant see the line at all and when he is holding it he blocks the laser completely 🤣, and to top it all off...the drill bit i butchered to fit only made a witness scratch on the concrete before the chuck bottomed out ot the angle....this was hilarious and traumatic at the same time, with 6 holes in total to drill 🤣 we had to mark each hole and check level, remove angle and drill holes to depth, hold angle in place again, checking the laser level on each fixing because the holes were angled up slightly and pull the angle out of level.....smooth sailing after that, rivit angle struts between the rails and screw cement board to frame. The centre of board has a 6" square frame and pre cut panel secured in and can be cut out in the future for the flue installation.......well thats the plan atleast. I know I rambled on and commend you for getting this far 👍 hope you also get a chuckle out it, we certainly did 😉 😄
Sounds like fun, you got there in the end with a bit of creativity. Hope your quote covered all the extra work. Could do with an angle drill with hammer action.
Gordon Millar HI Gordon. Yes I've updated now to Sony action camera, still getting used to pointing my head in the right direction not just my eyes. The cottage is at the final stages now. I've got loads of material to post, if only I didn't have a day job.
Just gravity and the springiness of the flue. It takes quite a bit of pushing to force the adaptor straight up so a bit of pushing whilst twisting the flue pipe seats it quite easily.
Francis Barnett Thanks Francis, I had a quick look at your channel, some fascinating stuff you get up to. I think I'll be back for more of the timber framing at some point.
wow was not sure to begin with if it was going to be useful but answered all my questions and now i can install my fire no problem . thanks for a great video
thankyou for a great video i have just become a registered hetas fitter for multifuel and log burning appliances and love learning tricks of the trade cheers
Put stove in place cut reg plate etc , drop liner into room connect flue pipe etc then pull the flex up put stove in place drop flex back down and fit reg plate when thats finished go on roof and terminate liner and fit pot hanger , this is easier the trying to attach flue pipe half way up chimney
Brilliant video which has help me a lot, but I have one question. At about 10:57 you mention staining the back wall of the fireplace with a concoction of charcoal powder and potassium silicate. Do you have any more information on this?
Great video mate. Just a quick Question. My adapter that goes onto the flexi doesn’t appear to have holes in it (to screw to the flexi) should I drill and use self tappers or will it be ok without screws?
I can't answer you on that, apart from to say that the adaptor has to be securely fixed to the flexi. Some manufacturers have adapters that screw on to the flexi but they have to match. If it is not secure the chances are that they will come apart especially whilst sweeping but due to expansion and contraction during use they could come apart as well. I suggest you contact the manufacturer or sales outlet.
This is next on the list... very good incite into the how the diy'r can do it right and save fiew quid.. certificate is a must for me.. i will be seeking local advice on pricing .. TOP JOB THO..
Fantastic video, extremely well explained and enjoyed watching the video. If you have time to respond, no worries if not, some of my sealant has come off the colar/ flue connection. What is the best way to remove so I can reapply around the pipe rather than just the bits that have come off, and is there a recommendation for sealant/ cement ? One that can be sprayed afterwards to match the stove colour?
Fire cement is brittle and the constant expansion and contraction of the metal often causes it to chip off however the main body of it in the joint tends to keep it well sealed so it more of a cosmetic problem than functional. Chipping it out with a screw driver of similar is the only way unless you dismantle the joint. Re-pack it with fresh fire cement that can be sprayed when completely dry.
Many thanks feedback very much appreciated. Actually I can fit a small (satay) wooden stick inbetween the collar and the pipe where the cement is normally located so when you say it’s just estethetics maybe my issue is more foundational that either the flue or collar is not properly fitted. The wooden stick goes all the way in the stove is that normal!? Don’t think I can add a photo here but if I can will do.
@@filipbali In that case yes it need fixing before you use it. If the gap is wide when all the old cement is dug out, it can help if you first pack it out with the braided outer layer of fire rope.
If you're going to use Backer board as a register plate in the UK.....well you need to think very carefully about being sued or deemed responsible for loss of property of death if it sets light. HETAS advise the use of 1.5mm steel and NOT backer board. So you are probably looking at the word "advise" and think its a get out of jail card. WRONG. In court the judge will ask you why you didn't use 1.5mm steel like HETAS advise. He will also ask why you didn't consult building regulations or HETAS, since it is in the public domain. So, yes, you will be prosecuted, because you didn't act like a competent person using the correct product for the job, and that information was clearly in the public domain. Yes, HETAS can only advise because it currently isnt regulated like GAS, but wait and see what happens when you break the rules and take out property or people. Infact, because you are broadcasting this video to the public. If somebody installs something incorrectly then they might point the finger at yourself for blame. How do I know this? Because Ive spent the past 2 weeks with 2 expert witnesses for court cases in the heating industry.
You state that concrete board can set alight - it cannot at all. Even up to 1000 centigrade concrete can only decompose. Steel loses strength between 300-800 centigrade in comparison. The point of the register plate or closure plate is to not smash if a brick falls down the chimney where no liner is installed and thus smoke entered the room. You will note in the video that he installs a steel chimney liner thus negating the need for a register plate, the closure plate he does install is cosmetic and just stops debris falling in to the room, that is all. He also correctly stated at the end of the video that the installation would need to be signed off by somebody from a registered scheme (HETAS) or building control, again he is totally correct in saying that. I suggest you read building controls 'Document J' and re-listen to the narrative on this video & stop telling everybody they will be sued.
WRONG. Here is the information taken from the Hardie Backer website: "Withstands temperatures of up to 100 C". source: www.jameshardie.co.uk/images/uploads/resources/hardiebacker-multifuel-leaflet.pdf These boards are not made from concrete alone. You've picked the wrong person to argue with. You can be sued, FACT. Im a qualified heating engineer, we've looked over court cases where people have been sued for using the wrong materials. You're simply ignorant to facts from a qualified person. Just because they advertise it as being suitable, doesn't mean it is. I measured a temperature of 120 c on a chimney pot the other day, and a temperature of 250 c on the metal register plate. Thats 150 c more than the manufacturer rates it backer board. Call HETAS yourself and ask them if you should use backer board, they will say no.
Luke Johnson worst install I have ever seen was by a HETAS engineer, using Hardiebacker meets UK and EU regs, they even show you how to use it on their website. You should look up the Dunning-Krueger effect, it will explain to you why you are WRONG.
You just don't get it do you? Just because somebody qualified makes a mistake, doesn't mean we should copy it. I have to put right loads of dodgy HETAS installations. Also, just because Backer board is advertised for register plate use, doesn't mean its the right thing for the job and like Ive already said, HETAS DO NOT RECOMMEND ITS USE. Metal is so cheap, why the argument? What are you trying to prove? Theres no money saved really. Also, in relation to the Dunning-Kruger theory ( which I had to google because Im not that clever ). I know my limitations, thats why I seek the advice of real experts, because I don't always trust my own limited judgement. Thats why I am poor, from going on the best heating courses around, with the best guys in the industry. I have no illusions of superiority. I can make the most stupid mistakes, and try to learn from them. I nearly caused a house fire once in a customers property, thank goodness it was spotted and the fire was put out quickly. I am simply trying to help others learn from my and other peoples mistakes. And you would do well to do likewise.
Great video, I've been following it to fit my stove, the only problem I have is trying to drill into the rock that has been used to build the house so I can fit the closure plate 😬
A good quality (sharp) masonry bit in a hammer drill should help. If you cant go in straight because the combination of big drill an bit is too big for the space you can go in at an angle.
@@idostuffcouk Unfortunately the rock kept shattering and I was only using a 4.5mm drill. In the end I opted to utilise the old metal frame to screw up into and then I'll mortar around the edges as per your guide to really secure it.
So you sealed the rear brickwork, with a fire rate sealer is it possible to get a clear sealent as we have been advised in our area 50mm is minuium.I believe so steel closure in this area suburb of London. A first class video
Great video thankyou . I've just purchased a second hand stove. Exactly the same as this any ideas on the make and model so I can get a spares list etc please . Many thanks for you time
If I remember right it's a Town and Country Fires, Lttle Thurlow. Instructions can be downloaded from - www.townandcountryfires.co.uk/product/the-little-thurlow/
Great instructions. My installer put my stove out on the hearth. He said it would put out more heat in the room. I would have preferred to have it inside the opening like yours, as the room gets hot enough, and it looks better. Can I move it myself and Re attach the pipe to the top of the stove as it's attached at the back of the stove. (numpty woman with a range of diy skills from watching RUclips ☺)
If the stove is designed for top or rear flue connections then it should be possible. You would have to check the minimum clearances given by the stove manufacturer and all the various distances from combustible materials stipulated in the regulations. I'm just wondering if your installer did it like that for other reasons than he gave you. As you are changing things it should be signed off by building control or a registered installer. The skills to do the work however aren't all that difficult.
Great video, any suggestions for a collar that doesnt slide up the pipe? My collar has a smaller rectanular hole that dosent allow me to slide it up as shown.
Good install job. My only comment to make this install easier, would be the use of something they can a "slip joint." You can get a special section of pipe to slide anywhere from about 1-10 inches into a joining pipe. The use of this joint eliminates the need for precise cutting.
Had to check on my cats until i realised it was yours. Juat had my chimney bored out and a stainless flue put in. Funds ran out so the final process of exhaust from stove I'm doing myself.. Was just about to start and i thought I'd best watch a video first.
The collar on the top of the stove I’ve bought has its securing bolts (3) actually inside the collar, so the stove can’t slide in under the bottom end of the stovepipe - which has to drop in from above. I’m hoping there will be enuf flexibility in the length of the liner to give me the 2-3 inches I’ll need. The top of the flue pipe is secured to the cowl which in turn is jubilee clipped to the pot and the side straps bent horizontal and cemented down to create a sloping run-off for rain. Any comments would help re the amount of play in liner length - plus stove is v heavy (64kg) Mike D
Yes some stoves fit the collar from the inside, all the ones I have done can be screw on with nuts and bolts from the inside of the stove. It can be awkward with a long reach socket but is doable. Obviously you have to take out the baffle as you would for sweeping.
Nice walk-through.. One sticking point for me is the 150mm from the back of the burner to the wall behind. Yours looks pretty close to the wall at the back?
Hello, you suggested to use silicone to seal the closure plate to the pipe. I can only can find products that can only withstand up to 300'c. Will this suffice? Many thanks.
There are higher temp silicones available, Envirograf - High Temperature Black Silicone 1200 Degrees C, Vitcas Heat Resistant Silicone. The lower temperature ones may start breaking down and becoming brittle.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I've been getting many more questions in the comments, sorry I can't answer them all BUT, I can highly recommend the guides for self installers available at www.stovefitterswarehouse.co.uk. Go to the "Quick Guides & FAQ" section where there is loads of useful information including the "Stove fitter's Manual". If you are in the UK they also supply flue products and stoves that have been chosen/tested for quality and value, I'll be buying from them for my next install. I couldn't put together all the info they have compiled, it really is a valuable resource, well worth a look.
At least you answer.
Do you need to put in a liner? Or can you just use the chimney as is?
@@matthewwarrington6006 You can fit a stove directly to a chimney if it is in good condition but you would need a metal register plate with access for sweeping. However a modern stove works much more efficiently with a liner, the extra draw you get with warmer flue gasses can make a big difference to how well the works.
Bloody brilliant video, no fuss, no life story, just the facts, info and tips.
Finally someone who can make a how to vid. No babbling and droning on . Straight to the point clear and useful. Many thanks
I'm not alone here by saying you have a fantastic style and pace to your video.
Top marks top marks. 👌🏼
Thank you
Jono
i have never commented on a video before after watching 100's of 'how too' but this one is awesome, so informative and enjoyable.... well done!!!!!
From what I have found out (UK); ''Whenever you have a woodburning stove installed in a fireplace, you will have a plate above the stove blocking off the bottom of the chimney. The plate must be made of solid, non-combustible material. You may hear this plate referred to as a “Closure” or “Register” plate. Although these terms are often used interchangeably by some people, there is an important difference between them.
A Register Plate should always be fitted whenever a stove vents DIRECTLY into the chimney (ie if the chimney is sound and there is NO flue liner connected directly to the stove or stove pipe). The purpose of this register plate is to ensure no fumes, especially Carbon Monoxide, escapes back into the room. The Register Plate must therefore be sealed around the edges and around the stove pipe. The Register Plate must also have an access hatch to enable the chimney to be swept.
CLOSURE PLATE performs a different purpose. It is essentially cosmetic and can also reduce heat loss into a chimney which is lined with, for example, a stainless steel flexible flue liner. Because the stove is directly connected to the flue liner, the Closure Plate is not required to be tightly sealed in the same way as a Register Plate; it also does not need an access hatch for sweeping as this will take place either through the stove or, where fitted, through a removable sweeping plate on the stove pipe. If your chimney has been thoroughly swept before the flue liner was installed, there should be minimal soot deposits collected over time on the top of it''.
My husband is fitting his now, your video was of immense use, he's a builder, and has built many a fireplace in the past, and he watched it all the way through, even telling me to shush, which i may add is pretty significan,t, , as you answered a few questions , ie, the register plate, and the tip on cutting the pipe, and also , to fianly the use of silicone as a filler , he was most impressed. Would reccomend anyone to watch your video, extremely helpful, many thanks.
+lindy cole . Thanks, It's good to know people are findng it useful.
For 16 minutes long you kept my attention, mate. Best how to do vid I have seen on You Tube!
Thanks
second that!
I totally agree. Exceptionally brilliant! Loved every minute of it.
Just to say if a brick did fall on steel it would leave a massive dent as it doesn't need to be any thicker than 2mm . Most use the lighter stuff anyways. Cement board is just as good
Excellent video, keep up the good work and cheers from Waukesha Wisconsin USA
My friend enjoyed this so much that he watched it over 7 times in one sitting! Crazy times.
Wow, that sounds like it took a whole working day
@@calparton6372 hours actually
That's mental, Surely he must have been installing one himself?
@@calparton637 I don’t know, it was just reported to me that he’d watched it for 2 hours.
@@jacktrubshaw4576 Hopefully he'll enjoy the prequel, ruclips.net/video/RcVxKqkcCMc/видео.htmlsi=j9TdRZJSQcTM2JnT, just as much. 😁
Hi, first time I have felt the need to leave a comment on youtube! I found this really helpful and appreciate the time put into it, thanks, Jimmy
Thanks Jimmy.
Great vid, I'm attempting this job myself shortly and this has been the clearest instructional I've seen out of dozens of vids.
It's been really nice to watch someone who's confident about what he is doing. Thank you for an excellent and swift demonstration.
Here watching myself and I agree 👍
This fire pit is one of a few covered pits that is on the list ruclips.net/user/postUgkxAU9pOCSV9Y5JprooHvfxTpOrt4hx8uRM of approved products for Disney Fort Wilderness. The product served its purpose well and provided excellent fires throughout the evening. We were able to open the door and do s'mores, but I had to be careful because the handle was a bit hot on occasions. Additionally, I wish they had replaced some of the standard nuts with lock nuts in some places. We lost the door handle after just a couple of days of usage. Not a deal breaker, just a recommendation. I still give it 5 stars.
2.17am UK time, the best enjoyable video i have watched in a long time, commentary was awesome, as another comment posted, you also kept me intrigued the entire video.
I shall have a look at your other videos, well made video, no nonsense, yet brilliant camera work, very educational and formative.
Thank you for your efforts.
I watch alot of videos on RUclips
, very rare I comment. This guy deserves one.. great video mate.
I like how you broke the Hardie board and edited it out . 😂 made me laugh . Thank you for the video
Agreed. Best how to on RUclips. The headcam helped, as it gave us a 'fitters-eye-view' of the process, with all the 'boring' bits chopped out. RUclipsrs could learn a lot from this. 5 Star video as it gives me a lot of confidence to fit my own.
iDoStuff, I've been using your videos to help me install my own stove. I've had to learn bricklaying and plaster-boarding along the way also. I used the hardie backer for the inside of the fireplace and also used it for the closure plate as many of my bricks were untidy. Will get the local building regs to sign it off. Thanks for a thoroughly enjoyable video and helpful hints. You gave me the confidence to start this project.
Cheers Shane
I am using this brill vid to fit my own fires. So easy to follow and so well explained - its a must if you are tackling this job.
As we seem to be late to the party, as in having a log burner in the house, what a great video. , thank you
No worries!
Just like to say thanks for putting video up. This saved me a small fortune as people wanted to charge the earth to do it for me. Took me a few hours but got it done. Thanks again. 👍
Great job, that is not an easy install!! I’ve been learning the trade for a year now and I’m loving it. I like to watch these videos as everyone has their own little ways of doing things. Nice to get a few tips thank you
Agreed the best no BS no special effects just straight forward advice. No sales pitch crap
Absolutely fantastic video he talks to you not like a smartass and shows how it is achievable for anyone
This video is very well executed. Good camera work and narrative. Calm as a cucumber. 11/10
Cheers Chris
Very interesting, nice job.
I am totally in love with my log burner.
I can cook with, keeps me warm, better than a tv and doesn't argue 😆
Another self centred woman, whatever next
This is simply the best and most through video of any diy project effort I've ever seen. I am currently in the process of converting/renovation a whole 3 bed house on my own, Well done you and thanks.
mchgyle . Me too. Can’t believe how long it’s taking. Soul destroying on your own. 😩
Great video it’s on my list of jobs to do. 👍
I loved your laid back narration! excellent and very informative video, thank you.
Loved the video, learnt something from the comment section to, you don't have and support installed like in your damage test, the board will fail if a brick hit from high enough with no support to dampen to impact. Still a good video 😉
This is so clear and informative. You held my attention, the video is spot on. We'll done,thanks a million, great job @
A brilliant video. You explained exactly how to do it effectively in a very clean way. Thanks for the tutorial I appreciate this.
Just brilliant. I'm just about to connect up the flue liner and thought I'd check it out on You Tube. Really confident now. That idea to use a cement board instead of a metal plate is something I'll use in future.Thanks
Fantastic vid. Great sense of humour and a lovely laid back, easy going approach. God bless ya mate
Craig Cash does stove fitting now!! 😂
Excellent video mate, I put the liner in yesterday, off out to get some cement board today.
Great video! Clear and concise, well presented, through, and a professional finish. 10 out of 10.
I agree What a refreshing change to hear an English voice that’s easy on the ear
Just in case you still keeping eye on this -thanks for very useful video
Cheers, knocking on for 10 yrs but it's still relevant.
Being female I thought I might be lost but you made it look so easy and I feel confident in installing one in my place. Thanks for a great 'How To Do' video.
What a show buddy! Clear instruction, via explanation & demonstration. Just what I'm used to from my time in the services. Thanks very much!! God bless you and keep up the good work.
I have just oped a fireplace up fo a customer, purely for aesthetics. Chatting with customer while we were doing it and the log burner was a possibility they would look into in the future.
The drilling was also tricky, as you mentioned in the video. The specification for the opening made the drilling, let's say entertaining 🤣....you see the customer wants the aperture flush front to back on the sides and head (register plate), without the recessed area and.......set up in a way that it can be plastered in, and when the fire gets installed in a few years it can be done with no damage or mess.
We constructed an aluminium support frame using 40mm x 40mm, x 3mm angle profile, sounds simple 😆 we had a laser level set up 10mm below the concrete lintel, pre drilled 1.2m length of angle section, 1st piece was the back and was easy and then the front piece lol, ah drill won't fit.....no worries ill swap the sds and use the combi drill on hammer action which is not as big..... nope, same problem 😆, right there is a short masonry bit in the tool box, with the combi drill...problem solved........🤣 .... nope, right thats it... time to embrace the caveman in me, grab the grinder, attach a slitting disc and proceed to whip off the shank that is round and designed for a Jacobs chuck all the way to the spiral and "encourage" the trusty combi to hold said doctored bit while spinning true and not wheebling and wobbling.....holes need to be drilled 15mm the lintels edge, no pressure 😂......hey Presto it fits, sorted 👌........NOPE 🤦
I mentioned previously the laser level line was set 10mm below lintel, this is where it started to resembled a chuckle brothers episode 🤣
I'm sat in the chimney facing into the room, my colleague is holding the angle in place, I cant see the line at all and when he is holding it he blocks the laser completely 🤣, and to top it all off...the drill bit i butchered to fit only made a witness scratch on the concrete before the chuck bottomed out ot the angle....this was hilarious and traumatic at the same time, with 6 holes in total to drill 🤣 we had to mark each hole and check level, remove angle and drill holes to depth, hold angle in place again, checking the laser level on each fixing because the holes were angled up slightly and pull the angle out of level.....smooth sailing after that, rivit angle struts between the rails and screw cement board to frame. The centre of board has a 6" square frame and pre cut panel secured in and can be cut out in the future for the flue installation.......well thats the plan atleast. I know I rambled on and commend you for getting this far 👍 hope you also get a chuckle out it, we certainly did 😉 😄
Sounds like fun, you got there in the end with a bit of creativity. Hope your quote covered all the extra work. Could do with an angle drill with hammer action.
I just watched this whole video just because I like listening to you talk! Haha
You sound like the guy from "Dead man's shoes"! Thought you were gonna waste some bad guys in your video! Awesome tutorial! 👊🏻🙂
😂😂😂
This is a brilliant how to video! Really helpful for me starting out on this project!! Thanks for creating and sharing ✨👌🏼✨
Great video so well explained.
Gonna give it go myself and save a small fortune 😊
Excellent tuition sir, easy to understand and enjoyable. thank you.
Andy, Great video! no time wasting. You must be using that head Cam again.
Works well. Your cottage must be nearly finished now.
Gordon Millar HI Gordon. Yes I've updated now to Sony action camera, still getting used to pointing my head in the right direction not just my eyes. The cottage is at the final stages now. I've got loads of material to post, if only I didn't have a day job.
iDoStuff Ah yes the day job is a bit of a pain :-))
Bang on pal, just watched with our woman our next job
Any tutorials how to shut her up tho
That's a great idea using the existing system on so many levels. If I can find me a nice old-fashioned wood burner I would get one.
What a great video. I was thinking about getting it fitted but I'm now thinking I'm going to do it myself if it's that easy! Nice one "Cheers"
What a fantastic no nonsense video , thanks pal you are a diamond 💎, thanks for sharing all your information, you have given many diy ers confidence 👍
what a great video well explained with some great advice
Thank you
Great video, held my attention all the way.👍
What a very good, informative video, you have given me the confidence to tackle the job on my own.
brilliant video, really easy to understand, covered everything we needed to know
Hi and thanks for video, just one question, how do you keep the adaptor from moving back up when pushing the flue pipe up , @ about 13 mins ,thanks
Just gravity and the springiness of the flue. It takes quite a bit of pushing to force the adaptor straight up so a bit of pushing whilst twisting the flue pipe seats it quite easily.
Best how to video on RUclips
Looks a decent job. Love your work.
Francis Barnett Thanks Francis, I had a quick look at your channel, some fascinating stuff you get up to. I think I'll be back for more of the timber framing at some point.
wow was not sure to begin with if it was going to be useful but answered all my questions and now i can install my fire no problem . thanks for a great video
thankyou for a great video i have just become a registered hetas fitter for multifuel and log burning appliances and love learning tricks of the trade cheers
Exactly what I needed...bang on 👏
A really good video. Down to earth no frills explanation. Well done and thanks
Put stove in place cut reg plate etc , drop liner into room connect flue pipe etc then pull the flex up put stove in place drop flex back down and fit reg plate when thats finished go on roof and terminate liner and fit pot hanger , this is easier the trying to attach flue pipe half way up chimney
Brilliant video which has help me a lot, but I have one question. At about 10:57 you mention staining the back wall of the fireplace with a concoction of charcoal powder and potassium silicate. Do you have any more information on this?
If you look up silicate paints it hardens as breathable and heat resistant. You can mix your own with any stable pigment.
@@idostuffcouk That's great, many thanks
It is clear and concise. Very useful. Many thanks.
Excellent instructions,clear & knowlegable. Thank-you !
Sir you are a true professional!
Absolutely brilliant no nonsense tutorial. 👏 👏👏
Great video mate. Just a quick Question. My adapter that goes onto the flexi doesn’t appear to have holes in it (to screw to the flexi) should I drill and use self tappers or will it be ok without screws?
I can't answer you on that, apart from to say that the adaptor has to be securely fixed to the flexi. Some manufacturers have adapters that screw on to the flexi but they have to match. If it is not secure the chances are that they will come apart especially whilst sweeping but due to expansion and contraction during use they could come apart as well. I suggest you contact the manufacturer or sales outlet.
Thanks for the reply. I have since discovered that it is a screw fitting. It was all purchased as a kit so it’s all good. Thanks.
This is next on the list... very good incite into the how the diy'r can do it right and save fiew quid.. certificate is a must for me.. i will be seeking local advice on pricing .. TOP JOB THO..
Fantastic video, extremely well explained and enjoyed watching the video. If you have time to respond, no worries if not, some of my sealant has come off the colar/ flue connection. What is the best way to remove so I can reapply around the pipe rather than just the bits that have come off, and is there a recommendation for sealant/ cement ? One that can be sprayed afterwards to match the stove colour?
Fire cement is brittle and the constant expansion and contraction of the metal often causes it to chip off however the main body of it in the joint tends to keep it well sealed so it more of a cosmetic problem than functional. Chipping it out with a screw driver of similar is the only way unless you dismantle the joint. Re-pack it with fresh fire cement that can be sprayed when completely dry.
Many thanks feedback very much appreciated. Actually I can fit a small (satay) wooden stick inbetween the collar and the pipe where the cement is normally located so when you say it’s just estethetics maybe my issue is more foundational that either the flue or collar is not properly fitted. The wooden stick goes all the way in the stove is that normal!? Don’t think I can add a photo here but if I can will do.
@@filipbali In that case yes it need fixing before you use it. If the gap is wide when all the old cement is dug out, it can help if you first pack it out with the braided outer layer of fire rope.
Super super helpful ! thanks so much the husband and I are looking into getting a wood fire in out first home
Due to put mine in soon. This has been very useful and informative. Very many thanks for all the tips.
If you're going to use Backer board as a register plate in the UK.....well you need to think very carefully about being sued or deemed responsible for loss of property of death if it sets light. HETAS advise the use of 1.5mm steel and NOT backer board.
So you are probably looking at the word "advise" and think its a get out of jail card. WRONG. In court the judge will ask you why you didn't use 1.5mm steel like HETAS advise. He will also ask why you didn't consult building regulations or HETAS, since it is in the public domain.
So, yes, you will be prosecuted, because you didn't act like a competent person using the correct product for the job, and that information was clearly in the public domain. Yes, HETAS can only advise because it currently isnt regulated like GAS, but wait and see what happens when you break the rules and take out property or people.
Infact, because you are broadcasting this video to the public. If somebody installs something incorrectly then they might point the finger at yourself for blame.
How do I know this? Because Ive spent the past 2 weeks with 2 expert witnesses for court cases in the heating industry.
You state that concrete board can set alight - it cannot at all. Even up to 1000 centigrade concrete can only decompose. Steel loses strength between 300-800 centigrade in comparison.
The point of the register plate or closure plate is to not smash if a brick falls down the chimney where no liner is installed and thus smoke entered the room. You will note in the video that he installs a steel chimney liner thus negating the need for a register plate, the closure plate he does install is cosmetic and just stops debris falling in to the room, that is all.
He also correctly stated at the end of the video that the installation would need to be signed off by somebody from a registered scheme (HETAS) or building control, again he is totally correct in saying that.
I suggest you read building controls 'Document J' and re-listen to the narrative on this video & stop telling everybody they will be sued.
WRONG. Here is the information taken from the Hardie Backer website: "Withstands temperatures of up to 100 C".
source: www.jameshardie.co.uk/images/uploads/resources/hardiebacker-multifuel-leaflet.pdf
These boards are not made from concrete alone. You've picked the wrong person to argue with. You can be sued, FACT. Im a qualified heating engineer, we've looked over court cases where people have been sued for using the wrong materials. You're simply ignorant to facts from a qualified person. Just because they advertise it as being suitable, doesn't mean it is. I measured a temperature of 120 c on a chimney pot the other day, and a temperature of 250 c on the metal register plate. Thats 150 c more than the manufacturer rates it backer board.
Call HETAS yourself and ask them if you should use backer board, they will say no.
Luke Johnson worst install I have ever seen was by a HETAS engineer, using Hardiebacker meets UK and EU regs, they even show you how to use it on their website. You should look up the Dunning-Krueger effect, it will explain to you why you are WRONG.
You just don't get it do you? Just because somebody qualified makes a mistake, doesn't mean we should copy it. I have to put right loads of dodgy HETAS installations. Also, just because Backer board is advertised for register plate use, doesn't mean its the right thing for the job and like Ive already said, HETAS DO NOT RECOMMEND ITS USE. Metal is so cheap, why the argument? What are you trying to prove? Theres no money saved really.
Also, in relation to the Dunning-Kruger theory ( which I had to google because Im not that clever ). I know my limitations, thats why I seek the advice of real experts, because I don't always trust my own limited judgement. Thats why I am poor, from going on the best heating courses around, with the best guys in the industry.
I have no illusions of superiority. I can make the most stupid mistakes, and try to learn from them. I nearly caused a house fire once in a customers property, thank goodness it was spotted and the fire was put out quickly.
I am simply trying to help others learn from my and other peoples mistakes. And you would do well to do likewise.
What an easy going man.superb instructional.
Thanks
this was bang on, im shite at DIY but can folo this no probs.
Superb video. Easy to follow and had my full attention........ 👌🏻👍🏻
Very good and instructive video. Thank you mate
That was great. I am about to tackle 2 chimneys in my home. Just hope I can complete it as well as you. Thanks.
Great video, I've been following it to fit my stove, the only problem I have is trying to drill into the rock that has been used to build the house so I can fit the closure plate 😬
A good quality (sharp) masonry bit in a hammer drill should help. If you cant go in straight because the combination of big drill an bit is too big for the space you can go in at an angle.
@@idostuffcouk Unfortunately the rock kept shattering and I was only using a 4.5mm drill. In the end I opted to utilise the old metal frame to screw up into and then I'll mortar around the edges as per your guide to really secure it.
Helpful video , remember folks you need 6" pipes and liners for anything other than wood, i.e. peat coal ,
This looks easier fair play good video. I want to Install one in my garage and this has helped loads
Terrific stuff. very helpful. Great workmanship, Thanks.
Good how-to video, very clear instruction. Thank you.
Fantastic informative video I am installing one of these myself at home and all your tips are fantastic
So you sealed the rear brickwork, with a fire rate sealer is it possible to get a clear sealent as we have been advised in our area 50mm is minuium.I believe so steel closure in this area suburb of London.
A first class video
very good video im off to find more of your stuff now, thanks
I wondered if you knew the make of the stove you installed here, please?
Thanks for your video, I will attempt.
It's a Town and Country Little Thurlow.
An excellent informative and interesting video, thanks it answered many of my questions....
It's been a big help, thanks for posting this
Great video thankyou . I've just purchased a second hand stove. Exactly the same as this any ideas on the make and model so I can get a spares list etc please . Many thanks for you time
If I remember right it's a Town and Country Fires, Lttle Thurlow. Instructions can be downloaded from - www.townandcountryfires.co.uk/product/the-little-thurlow/
Great instructions. My installer put my stove out on the hearth. He said it would put out more heat in the room. I would have preferred to have it inside the opening like yours, as the room gets hot enough, and it looks better. Can I move it myself and Re attach the pipe to the top of the stove as it's attached at the back of the stove. (numpty woman with a range of diy skills from watching RUclips ☺)
If the stove is designed for top or rear flue connections then it should be possible. You would have to check the minimum clearances given by the stove manufacturer and all the various distances from combustible materials stipulated in the regulations. I'm just wondering if your installer did it like that for other reasons than he gave you. As you are changing things it should be signed off by building control or a registered installer. The skills to do the work however aren't all that difficult.
@@idostuffcouk thank you for taking the time to reply. I might get him to come back and move it just incase. ☺
Great video, any suggestions for a collar that doesnt slide up the pipe?
My collar has a smaller rectanular hole that dosent allow me to slide it up as shown.
The nibbles made the state of Minnesota USA. Jolly good job
Good install job. My only comment to make this install easier, would be the use of something they can a "slip joint." You can get a special section of pipe to slide anywhere from about 1-10 inches into a joining pipe. The use of this joint eliminates the need for precise cutting.
Agreed, a slip joint also makes it easier if the spigot on the stove is fixed internally.
How about the top end - any recommendations. Thank you for your efforts, much appreciated.
There is a nother video of the flue install,.
New one in edit at the moment with a pot hanging flue.
Had to check on my cats until i realised it was yours. Juat had my chimney bored out and a stainless flue put in. Funds ran out so the final process of exhaust from stove I'm doing myself.. Was just about to start and i thought I'd best watch a video first.
Didn't know Gary Barlow fitter stoves....😆
Great vid cheers .
The collar on the top of the stove I’ve bought has its securing bolts (3) actually inside the collar, so the stove can’t slide in under the bottom end of the stovepipe - which has to drop in from above. I’m hoping there will be enuf flexibility in the length of the liner to give me the 2-3 inches I’ll need. The top of the flue pipe is secured to the cowl which in turn is jubilee clipped to the pot and the side straps bent horizontal and cemented down to create a sloping run-off for rain. Any comments would help re the amount of play in liner length - plus stove is v heavy (64kg)
Mike D
Yes some stoves fit the collar from the inside, all the ones I have done can be screw on with nuts and bolts from the inside of the stove. It can be awkward with a long reach socket but is doable. Obviously you have to take out the baffle as you would for sweeping.
Thoroughly enjoyed watching your video. Can't afford one like, but one day ey. And Do I detect a lancashire accent? :)
Derbyshire ish,
Great video, very informative. One question, did you screw the fire collar from the inside of the stove?
Thanks, on this one the collar screws down from the top, much easier than ones that have to be done from inside.
Nice walk-through.. One sticking point for me is the 150mm from the back of the burner to the wall behind. Yours looks pretty close to the wall at the back?
Hello, you suggested to use silicone to seal the closure plate to the pipe. I can only can find products that can only withstand up to 300'c. Will this suffice? Many thanks.
There are higher temp silicones available, Envirograf - High Temperature Black Silicone 1200 Degrees C, Vitcas Heat Resistant Silicone. The lower temperature ones may start breaking down and becoming brittle.
Thanks for the reply. Just discovered the victus one. Also, did you use lime mortar to secure around the plate or just regular sand cement mix?
@@firstnamelastname59 Probably NHL lime on that one but cement would be fine on most jobs
@@idostuffcouk Thanks, very helpful.