I used a timing gear puller and an electric impact...took off a flywheel that had been in place close to 35 years bt then I wasn't worried about the flywheel since it wasn't to be used again. We will be tightening it back down with a strap wrench.
Well, if anyone out there wants to know what bolts are used for the puller, they are 5/16-24 bolts. I did some research on this as I had to replace my stator.
Are you sure those bolts are 5/16"-24? I know those kits come with 5/16"-18 bolts. My Kohler Courage, I guess is a 5/16" bolt as I can get a 5/16"-18 and a 5/16"-24 started, but they both stop. I guess because of the rust. And so I don't know exactly which one before I try to just tighten it down anyways. I had read on a forum where they said the bolt will either be a 5/16"-18 or 3/8"-16.
I've got a Kohler Courage with single piston. The flywheel looks just like yours, except that it only has two holes for the puller. Do you know what thread pitch of the bolts are that screw into those holes? I assume it's a 5/16" bolt since that's what comes in those kits. But I've tried a 5/16"-18 and 5/16"-24 bolt, and both will start to go in, but then stop. So I assume it could be just because of the rust, but I'd like to know the correct bolt before I go to town with it and try to screw ti down.
If you don't have a strap wrench you can use a pipe wrench to hold the crank pulley shaft or if pulley is off use pipe wrench to hold the crank shaft from underneath.
I looked up a video cause the last two i pulled the magnets were trashed , i thought i did something wrong , but i guess they just do that , po said it blew up ? New flywheels they ran ok even without passing a leak down test , i tried them anyway , there still running , that was 6 months ago , just a log splitter , light duty for them .
u did it the right way dude,but if that flywheel is really stuck,u will bend that pulley n break thos bolts like twigs,its happend to me a few times.great video
Thanks for making this vid. I found it very helpful. I'm a total newb! LOL! I'm restoring a 1968 Kohler 181s off a 1969 John Deere 110H and flywheel removal is my next challenge.
Hello great video!! I can thank you enough! Can you please tell me what the "two bolt" sizes you used for your puller to screw into the flywheel? I have a puller but I need to get the bolts.
George, great job once again. Keep the videos coming! Can you put a rope in the spark plug hole to keep the shaft from turning, or would that be just for walk behind mowers? Take care, will be waiting for your next video.........
hi, can i use a ridgid strap wrench for this task, i mean are they strong enough? (cause they are made of nylon.) and thanks for uploading, very nice vid.
I think I can manage the flywheel, if only someone could tell me how to get the plastic cover from flywheel, without tearing it up. Anyone have suggestions?
I know using a puller is correct but not nessessary. Screw flywheel bolt back in as far as possible w/o head hitting flywheel. Pry under flywheel hard (second person helps) Smack bolt HARD. If done right (and I mean right) flywheel will pop off first hit. Sure, pullers are great but when you are as busy as me, all the time saved helps customers. Magnets inside flywheel (on battery equipped engines) MAY pop off. Just install w/epoxy. Cyntrifical force will assure it doesn't come back off.
Thanks. I honestly can't remember where I bought the puller, but its a pretty common design. I am sure you can find something similar at Sears, Harbor Freight, or even ebay. You can also find them on Tool Trucks like Snap-On, Matco, Mac, etc.
Was working on a 18 hp Kohler believe it is 2011 model. I had the shroud off and was running engine. I had a large chain type come- a- long that I had used to lift the back. I didn't think about it and pulled the tractor backwards to clear the chain fall. Should have cranked up the chain first. What a stupid mistake. The big hook on the chain fall hit the magnet on the flywheel with it running and sheared off the flywheel coil magnet. It looks like stainless screws holding magnet on so probably near impossible to drill out. I have a 19 hp Kohler around a 2006 model and thought I could use that flywheel. It was designed a little different on the top surface. But just eyeballing it the key way seemed to be in the same position in relation to the magnet as the 18. So I put this flywheel on and it is getting plenty of fire but is not starting or even trying to start. I figured the flywheel must be a little different so the timing is off. But I would think that it would try to start a little and pop and sputter. But it acts like it is out of gas. Tried injecting gas in carb and same result. Does any one know if you can interchange an 18 hp. 2011 flywheel with a 19 hp. 2006 both Kohler? I am thinking now that the circumference of the flywheels may be a little different where the magnet contacts the coil, so even if it looks in same position with the keyway it is firing prematurely or too late for valve/piston combustion. I will check that tomorrow.
It has been raining a lot here in the New Orleans area. So haven't felt like getting outside to check out my Kohler. But I think that I figured out the problem. I believe the flywheel is not the problem as these two flywheels should interchange and getting fire, as it is, it should at least misfire. I think when the engine was running and the magnet got sheared off that the engine kept running with no fire so that the combusted gas did not burn leaving it in the top of the piston so that the pressure either blew out the rings or piston. Only thing I can figure is that it has lost compression. I will go out tomorrow and put my finger over the plug hole while turning motor over to see if it has compression. Pretty sure this is what happened. If I have no compression I will take off head and see if cylinder and piston is okay. If so I will take out piston and order new rings.
Any good brand name for a flywheel puller or essentially will a generic flywheel puller work for the DIY'er, non-professional! Most of these pullers will work for your car too, I think!
My flywheel didn't contain any bolt holes and a three-jaw puller will not work either. The only option that came to mind was WD-40, heat, and gentle pressure from a prybar. Any suggestions, anyone?
You don't need heat. Place the pry bar under the flywheel where there is a SOLID part of the engine casing available. Not on a weak flange where the casing might break. Put some pressure on the pry bar while simultaneously smacking the flywheel bolt (big center bolt holding the flywheel) Make sure the bolt is screwed in almost all the way. Leave it out about an 1/8 inch so the flywheel can come loose. Smack the bolt while prying. If it doesn't come loose immediately then turn the flywheel 1/2 turn and do again then turn 1/4 turn and smack again. It will come off. Many flywheels do not have pulley bolt holes. If you don't have a strap wrench for tightening the bolt then use a flat head screwdriver in the teeth and find a place like an engine bolt head to brace the screwdriver against. You will need to torque the flywheel bolt when assembling. My flywheel bolt on a cub cadet LTX 1075 takes 65 lbs of torque. It is a 10 mm bolt. a 12 mm bolt takes more.
John the starter engages with the flywheel ring gear to turn your engine over. There is a magnet on the flywheel that interacts with the coil during flywheel rotation at specific intervals to send fire to the spark plug that fires into the cylinders so compressed gas is burned at the precise time that it is needed for combustion. So flywheel is needed to start engine and to keep it running.
You might try screwing the flywheel bolt back in but not all of the way in. Pry up under flywheel(be careful not to pry on the magnets). With a LARGE screwdriver or prybar .Pry the flywheel up and REALLY strike the head of the bolt with a hammer.If it doesn't pop off,rotate the flywheel and try in different spots You can also CAREFULLY heat around the flywheel where the crankshaft comes through the center with a propane torch,melt come candle wax down the shaft and try again.Most pullers are made from a cast metal that can break. I made a puller out of heavy angle iron with a 3/4" nut welded over a center hole,2 holes to align with the threaded holes in the flywheel,and a 3/4" bolt screwed into the center nut to exert pressure on the center of the crankshaft when you tighten it.Hope this works for you.
You don't need heat. Place the pry bar under the flywheel where there is a SOLID part of the engine casing available. Not on a weak flange where the casing might break. Put some pressure on the pry bar while simultaneously smacking the flywheel bolt (big center bolt holding the flywheel) Make sure the bolt is screwed in almost all the way. Leave it out about an 1/8 inch so the flywheel can come loose. Smack the bolt while prying. If it doesn't come loose immediately then turn the flywheel 1/2 turn and do again then turn 1/4 turn and smack again. It will come off. Many flywheels do not have pulley bolt holes. If you don't have a strap wrench for tightening the bolt then use a flat head screwdriver in the teeth and find a place like an engine bolt head to brace the screwdriver against. You will need to torque the flywheel bolt when assembling. My flywheel bolt on a cub cadet LTX 1075 takes 65 lbs of torque. It is a 10 mm bolt. a 12 mm bolt takes more.
How did you remove the plastic shroud that's mounted on top of the flywheel? Has some weird style clips holding it on place
I used a timing gear puller and an electric impact...took off a flywheel that had been in place close to 35 years bt then I wasn't worried about the flywheel since it wasn't to be used again. We will be tightening it back down with a strap wrench.
THANK YOU
Well, if anyone out there wants to know what bolts are used for the puller, they are 5/16-24 bolts. I did some research on this as I had to replace my stator.
thanks, thats why I'm watching, glad for your comment
Thank you very much!
Are you sure those bolts are 5/16"-24? I know those kits come with 5/16"-18 bolts. My Kohler Courage, I guess is a 5/16" bolt as I can get a 5/16"-18 and a 5/16"-24 started, but they both stop. I guess because of the rust. And so I don't know exactly which one before I try to just tighten it down anyways. I had read on a forum where they said the bolt will either be a 5/16"-18 or 3/8"-16.
I've got a Kohler Courage with single piston. The flywheel looks just like yours, except that it only has two holes for the puller. Do you know what thread pitch of the bolts are that screw into those holes? I assume it's a 5/16" bolt since that's what comes in those kits. But I've tried a 5/16"-18 and 5/16"-24 bolt, and both will start to go in, but then stop. So I assume it could be just because of the rust, but I'd like to know the correct bolt before I go to town with it and try to screw ti down.
If you don't have a strap wrench you can use a pipe wrench to hold the crank pulley shaft or if pulley is off use pipe wrench to hold the crank shaft from underneath.
I looked up a video cause the last two i pulled the magnets were trashed , i thought i did something wrong , but i guess they just do that , po said it blew up ? New flywheels they ran ok even without passing a leak down test , i tried them anyway , there still running , that was 6 months ago , just a log splitter , light duty for them .
u did it the right way dude,but if that flywheel is really stuck,u will bend that pulley n break thos bolts like twigs,its happend to me a few times.great video
Then what I'm in that boat?
Thanks for making this vid. I found it very helpful. I'm a total newb! LOL! I'm restoring a 1968 Kohler 181s off a 1969 John Deere 110H and flywheel removal is my next challenge.
Thanks for the video very helpful.
what kind of flywheel wrench is good to use and where to get it? thank you
What about top dead center and timing?
That takes to long take a pry bat push up on the fly wheel then hit the bolt comes off every time no damage .
Hello great video!! I can thank you enough! Can you please tell me what the "two bolt" sizes you used for your puller to screw into the flywheel? I have a puller but I need to get the bolts.
yeah
George, great job once again. Keep the videos coming! Can you put a rope in the spark plug hole to keep the shaft from turning, or would that be just for walk behind mowers? Take care, will be waiting for your next video.........
hi, can i use a ridgid strap wrench for this task, i mean are they strong enough? (cause they are made of nylon.) and thanks for uploading, very nice vid.
I think I can manage the flywheel, if only someone could tell me how to get the plastic cover from flywheel, without tearing it up. Anyone have suggestions?
I know using a puller is correct but not nessessary. Screw flywheel bolt back in as far as possible w/o head hitting flywheel. Pry under flywheel hard (second person helps) Smack bolt HARD. If done right (and I mean right) flywheel will pop off first hit. Sure, pullers are great but when you are as busy as me, all the time saved helps customers. Magnets inside flywheel (on battery equipped engines) MAY pop off. Just install w/epoxy. Cyntrifical force will assure it doesn't come back off.
Great Video man. Very helpful. Can you tell part number / where you got you flywheel puller.
Thanks. I honestly can't remember where I bought the puller, but its a pretty common design. I am sure you can find something similar at Sears, Harbor Freight, or even ebay. You can also find them on Tool Trucks like Snap-On, Matco, Mac, etc.
David Somerville Sears, Snap On, Mac Tools, Etc
Was working on a 18 hp Kohler believe it is 2011 model. I had the shroud off and was running engine. I had a large chain type come- a- long that I had used to lift the back. I didn't think about it and pulled the tractor backwards to clear the chain fall. Should have cranked up the chain first. What a stupid mistake. The big hook on the chain fall hit the magnet on the flywheel with it running and sheared off the flywheel coil magnet. It looks like stainless screws holding magnet on so probably near impossible to drill out. I have a 19 hp Kohler around a 2006 model and thought I could use that flywheel. It was designed a little different on the top surface. But just eyeballing it the key way seemed to be in the same position in relation to the magnet as the 18. So I put this flywheel on and it is getting plenty of fire but is not starting or even trying to start. I figured the flywheel must be a little different so the timing is off. But I would think that it would try to start a little and pop and sputter. But it acts like it is out of gas. Tried injecting gas in carb and same result. Does any one know if you can interchange an 18 hp. 2011 flywheel with a 19 hp. 2006 both Kohler? I am thinking now that the circumference of the flywheels may be a little different where the magnet contacts the coil, so even if it looks in same position with the keyway it is firing prematurely or too late for valve/piston combustion. I will check that tomorrow.
It has been raining a lot here in the New Orleans area. So haven't felt like getting outside to check out my Kohler. But I think that I figured out the problem. I believe the flywheel is not the problem as these two flywheels should interchange and getting fire, as it is, it should at least misfire. I think when the engine was running and the magnet got sheared off that the engine kept running with no fire so that the combusted gas did not burn leaving it in the top of the piston so that the pressure either blew out the rings or piston. Only thing I can figure is that it has lost compression. I will go out tomorrow and put my finger over the plug hole while turning motor over to see if it has compression. Pretty sure this is what happened. If I have no compression I will take off head and see if cylinder and piston is okay. If so I will take out piston and order new rings.
compressed gas not combusted gas dummy
@smallengineshop thanks for the info, and thanks for sharing your experience.
Tremendous help, thank you!
Any good brand name for a flywheel puller or essentially will a generic flywheel puller work for the DIY'er, non-professional! Most of these pullers will work for your car too, I think!
Hold on your not supposed to wack it with a three pound hammer then wonder why the magnets fell off.
My flywheel didn't contain any bolt holes and a three-jaw puller will not work either. The only option that came to mind was WD-40, heat, and gentle pressure from a prybar. Any suggestions, anyone?
You don't need heat. Place the pry bar under the flywheel where there is a SOLID part of the engine casing available. Not on a weak flange where the casing might break. Put some pressure on the pry bar while simultaneously smacking the flywheel bolt (big center bolt holding the flywheel) Make sure the bolt is screwed in almost all the way. Leave it out about an 1/8 inch so the flywheel can come loose. Smack the bolt while prying. If it doesn't come loose immediately then turn the flywheel 1/2 turn and do again then turn 1/4 turn and smack again. It will come off. Many flywheels do not have pulley bolt holes. If you don't have a strap wrench for tightening the bolt then use a flat head screwdriver in the teeth and find a place like an engine bolt head to brace the screwdriver against. You will need to torque the flywheel bolt when assembling. My flywheel bolt on a cub cadet LTX 1075 takes 65 lbs of torque. It is a 10 mm bolt. a 12 mm bolt takes more.
Thank you.
Thank you you did 👍
what does the fly wheel do?
Makes the wheels fly.
John the starter engages with the flywheel ring gear to turn your engine over. There is a magnet on the flywheel that interacts with the coil during flywheel rotation at specific intervals to send fire to the spark plug that fires into the cylinders so compressed gas is burned at the precise time that it is needed for combustion. So flywheel is needed to start engine and to keep it running.
Never had a use a puller to get a flywheel off
I've broken 2 pullers... what now?
You might try screwing the flywheel bolt back in but not all of the way in. Pry up under flywheel(be careful not to pry on the magnets). With a LARGE screwdriver or prybar .Pry the flywheel up and REALLY strike the head of the bolt with a hammer.If it doesn't pop off,rotate the flywheel and try in different spots You can also CAREFULLY heat around the flywheel where the crankshaft comes through the center with a propane torch,melt come candle wax down the shaft and try again.Most pullers are made from a cast metal that can break. I made a puller out of heavy angle iron with a 3/4" nut welded over a center hole,2 holes to align with the threaded holes in the flywheel,and a 3/4" bolt screwed into the center nut to exert pressure on the center of the crankshaft when you tighten it.Hope this works for you.
Stop shopping at harbor freight for your tools.
You don't need heat. Place the pry bar under the flywheel where there is a SOLID part of the engine casing available. Not on a weak flange where the casing might break. Put some pressure on the pry bar while simultaneously smacking the flywheel bolt (big center bolt holding the flywheel) Make sure the bolt is screwed in almost all the way. Leave it out about an 1/8 inch so the flywheel can come loose. Smack the bolt while prying. If it doesn't come loose immediately then turn the flywheel 1/2 turn and do again then turn 1/4 turn and smack again. It will come off. Many flywheels do not have pulley bolt holes. If you don't have a strap wrench for tightening the bolt then use a flat head screwdriver in the teeth and find a place like an engine bolt head to brace the screwdriver against. You will need to torque the flywheel bolt when assembling. My flywheel bolt on a cub cadet LTX 1075 takes 65 lbs of torque. It is a 10 mm bolt. a 12 mm bolt takes more.