I use the table saw method, then use my router on a router table to finish the smooth curve. That method also eliminates any tear out. On another note, ALWAYS use wood glue on all the joints. The glue is the true strength. The staple really just holds it in place while the glue cures.
A bench mounted belt sander can round out those table saw cuts nicely. I prefer to use the jointer as well. I saw the bamboo skewer idea on fakebook and will try that next. They are FAR cheaper than 1/4" dowells. Just finished 100 frames and have some leftovers which means I need to build more hives! I built a 20 frame assembly jig made for Layens frames because the one I made for the langstroph frames worked so well. It is not as efficient as the langstroph because of the design but I still thought it was much faster than building them all one at a time. I really enjoy watching your vijeos...thank you for doing them!
Send me some pics of your jig. I use a 10 frame jig, but I had to switch to the other jig that builds them one at a time when my jointer broke and I was using the 1" wide side bars as shown in the video
Holy smokes this was a helpful video. I have Lanstroth hives and just got an insulated Layens hoping it would be better for bees during our wet Oregon winters. Was looking for an alternative to full wax foundations. I will be trying your method. 🍻🐝🐝🐝
Gene, Really like the video. Here’s a thought for frame assembly. Set your jig on top of a piece of plywood mounted to a lazy Susan. You can simply spin it around instead of picking up the entire assembly and turning it around. I use it a lot and it really speeds things up. Got the idea from Jeff Horschoff ( Mr. Ed ) and I love it.
I keep telling myself to build a lazy Susan like Mr Ed - I love his videos too! I need to get some plans - point me in the right direction if you know where to find some. Thanks
@@enjoybeekeeping5612 I think I bought the lazy Susan at Home Depot or Lowe’s. Just two metal plates with ball bearings in between to make it turn. Mount that between two pieces of plywood of whatever dimension will work for whatever size your jigs are. A good size one for a stable base to sit on your workbench and maybe smaller top piece that the jig will sit on. Then simply screw some “keeper” strips alongside the outside edge of your jig to hold it in place and spin away. The trick to mounting the lazy Susan to both pieces of plywood is to drill a hole in the base piece of plywood that will line up with the holes in the upper metal plate of the Susan so as to then be able to attach the top portion of the lazy Susan to the top piece of plywood through the hole in the base piece of plywood. Hope that makes sense.
Many newer table saws have a router jig built into them, a router can be an inexpensive substitute for a jointer. It would be a quick way to reproduce the Layens frame.
GREAT! I am converting over to Layens and Russian bees after 3 unsuccessful years of Langstroff and Italian bees. This video was a solid way to lay out options on one of the parts I was concerned about. I love the bamboo skewer -- brilliant! One question how do you attach wax foundation starter? Super narrow groove? Staple? Also I am building six layens hives this year BUT I am having trouble sourcing "natural plywood" -- I was considering converting Dr Leo's insulated hive plans to 1 X 6 boards and going tongue and groove replace the plywood. I'm a beginning wood worker with a table saw and I have spent a great deal of time revising Dr. Leo's plans to accommodate the increased thickness of the boards. Do you have thoughts or suggestions??? Any pointers appreciated :) Thanks!
If I'm using plastic foundation as in this video, I cut a "kerf" or groove into the top bar using the saw blade and gently tap the foundation into the groove. You may have to test it first and go with a blade that will allow for a snug fit and you wont need any glue that way. You can use 1x lumber if you are in a climate zone with mild winters. I'm going to be releasing a video in a week or two that features a plywood Layens hive - so stay tuned. If you need further help feel free to email me at enjoybeekeeping@gmail.com Thanks!
That's a great vido. I am converting over to the layens system of natural bee keeping myself. I to make all my own equipment. I use a router and table to taper the side bars. It works well.
I did have success using the router table and a dado blade on my table saw as well. I really like the look of the taper - very classy, but sometimes I have to get down and dirty and go with a straight 1" side arm if I'm cranking out a few hundred and need them fast. Bee safe with your shop tools! :)
That's correct - I met with Dr Leo last year and he confirmed the use of a basic 1" wide side bar if you don't have a lot of shop equipment. Just use a little extra care in case you need to move the hive around. The top bars will determine your bee space. 1 3/8" wide top bars is more suitable for bees, BUT the Layens frame plan calls for 1 1/2" - I've actually used both, but it's easier just to stick with ONE size for all of your bee hives.
Thank you so much. That is a game changer for me because I wasn't sure how I was going to do that part but knowing now that I don't is awesome. Thank you so much. Your channel is great and I get a lot of information from it.
FYI - those touching top bars make it a major PITA to feed bees from the top. I advise against them. I since have converted nearly all of my touching top bars into Lang frame top bar design. Soft cover over the frames works just the same and better. This, unless you swear to never, ever feed your bees. :)
You can place a jar feeder inside the Layens hive off to one side sitting on the floor. Just make sure your bees don't build around it once they get going on their build up phase. This has worked fine - but I agree if you're used to top feeders you have to make some type of adjustments. This is just one that I've used and it works . All the best to you
@@enjoybeekeeping5612 The thing is - you can not feed on the floor when snow and freeze. The only way for the hard feed during the freezing winter is directly on the frames. Must have the pass-through top bars.
I just built 90 frames and used the table saw method then cut the little curve with a scroll saw. I did 10 full foundations for 2 swarm traps and then 10 additional wired frames and used a 1” strip of wax foundation slid into an 1/8” curf like you have done and I heated the wire to help secure the wax. Is the wax foundation strong enough? I like your honey extraction method also! I wondered how to extract without using a spinner. Great Video!
The wax will be secure enough for the bees to get started and then as soon as they build on it just a little it will become just as secure as if they did it all themselves. Prior to me getting a honey extractor I did the cut out, crush and strain method for 12 years. I recommend the one Dr Leo sells on his website horizontalhive.com
Gene how do you modify the langstroth frames top bar to work for layers? Because on your video it appears to have the original ends. It didn’t appear you made a splice in the middle. Thanks.
The layens hive is very interesting with the long frames. I'm sure you hear this a lot but how do you get your honey out of the frames..Nice video and thanks for the information!!
Great question. I just got an extractor that takes the Layens frames as well as standard Langstroth frames. If you look at my previous videos from 2020 I have a few of me doing the extracting. If you don't have an extractor like me for the previous 12 years I just did cut comb, crush and strain. Feel free to check them out. All the best!
Gene do you get more cross combing using just 1” guide. I saw on Dr. Leo’s site and he says use at least 3” guide to prevent cross combing. What’s your experience?
"IF" you are a DIY woodworker, why wouldn't you make your equipment to fit your original honey extractor? No reason to be compatible with everyone else unless you do it commercially. I'd say the size of a deep super on it's side just like how you extract the honey except as wide as the extractor will accommodate. .
I've never owned an extractor until a couple years ago and I got it from Dr Leo. It will take both Layens and Langstroth frames which is cool, so you don't need more than one extractor.
Thanks very much for your excellent informative videos. I have just finished building my first Layens hive out of pine. Do you treat the hive wood? Was thinking of tung oil or linseed oil, should I bother?
I prefer the Layens because there is less disturbance on the bees. I only move enough frames usually just a few to see how things are looking and then close it back up without even moving through the rest of the hive. I only use the modified Layens to fit beetle traps in between the frames.
I pinch the wax starters between the wood cleats and nail in with an air brad nailer, other times I use melted wax to secure a strip in a top bar with a groove cut down the length. I'll have to shoot some videos soon on this
I do dumpster dive on occasion at construction sites, and I always put the word out to wood workers that I'll take almost any size "waste" since beekeeping stuff calls for such small pieces that most guys throw away. I also have made a contact with a custom furniture factory that sells me anything that gets discontinued or water damaged super cheap. Just put the word out and only buy if you absolutely have to in order to have your equipment ready for bees. Once people know what you're doing - they are happy to help you out.
hi i have watching your videos and i am thinking about using the layens hive are a Idea from them. I live in the Caribbean and I am not sure if they will work.
I built mine - Dr Leo has plans on his site or if you go to the FREE STUFF section on my site I'm pretty sure I've got some there also. enjoybeekeeping.com
FANTASTIC!!!!! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!! Just a basic frame design. That's all that is needed! Outstanding!!!
I use the table saw method, then use my router on a router table to finish the smooth curve. That method also eliminates any tear out. On another note, ALWAYS use wood glue on all the joints. The glue is the true strength. The staple really just holds it in place while the glue cures.
A bench mounted belt sander can round out those table saw cuts nicely. I prefer to use the jointer as well. I saw the bamboo skewer idea on fakebook and will try that next. They are FAR cheaper than 1/4" dowells. Just finished 100 frames and have some leftovers which means I need to build more hives!
I built a 20 frame assembly jig made for Layens frames because the one I made for the langstroph frames worked so well. It is not as efficient as the langstroph because of the design but I still thought it was much faster than building them all one at a time. I really enjoy watching your vijeos...thank you for doing them!
Send me some pics of your jig. I use a 10 frame jig, but I had to switch to the other jig that builds them one at a time when my jointer broke and I was using the 1" wide side bars as shown in the video
Holy smokes this was a helpful video. I have Lanstroth hives and just got an insulated Layens hoping it would be better for bees during our wet Oregon winters. Was looking for an alternative to full wax foundations. I will be trying your method. 🍻🐝🐝🐝
Gene,
Really like the video. Here’s a thought for frame assembly. Set your jig on top of a piece of plywood mounted to a lazy Susan. You can simply spin it around instead of picking up the entire assembly and turning it around. I use it a lot and it really speeds things up. Got the idea from Jeff Horschoff ( Mr. Ed ) and I love it.
I keep telling myself to build a lazy Susan like Mr Ed - I love his videos too! I need to get some plans - point me in the right direction if you know where to find some. Thanks
@@enjoybeekeeping5612 I think I bought the lazy Susan at Home Depot or Lowe’s. Just two metal plates with ball bearings in between to make it turn. Mount that between two pieces of plywood of whatever dimension will work for whatever size your jigs are. A good size one for a stable base to sit on your workbench and maybe smaller top piece that the jig will sit on. Then simply screw some “keeper” strips alongside the outside edge of your jig to hold it in place and spin away. The trick to mounting the lazy Susan to both pieces of plywood is to drill a hole in the base piece of plywood that will line up with the holes in the upper metal plate of the Susan so as to then be able to attach the top portion of the lazy Susan to the top piece of plywood through the hole in the base piece of plywood. Hope that makes sense.
Great video. A guy from Hawaii on youtube uses a dado blade with a jig on his table saw. Does a great job as well!
I'll check it out!
Thanks you very much for your video showing and sharing your experience that very kind !!!
Thanks for the great tips on building frames! Hope all is well, haven't seen you in awhile
Many newer table saws have a router jig built into them, a router can be an inexpensive substitute for a jointer. It would be a quick way to reproduce the Layens frame.
Great video..I used table saw and cut them to one inch... Instead of using bamboo I used the cut off from my side bars to be my brace midways
GREAT! I am converting over to Layens and Russian bees after 3 unsuccessful years of Langstroff and Italian bees. This video was a solid way to lay out options on one of the parts I was concerned about. I love the bamboo skewer -- brilliant! One question how do you attach wax foundation starter? Super narrow groove? Staple? Also I am building six layens hives this year BUT I am having trouble sourcing "natural plywood" -- I was considering converting Dr Leo's insulated hive plans to 1 X 6 boards and going tongue and groove replace the plywood. I'm a beginning wood worker with a table saw and I have spent a great deal of time revising Dr. Leo's plans to accommodate the increased thickness of the boards. Do you have thoughts or suggestions??? Any pointers appreciated :) Thanks!
If I'm using plastic foundation as in this video, I cut a "kerf" or groove into the top bar using the saw blade and gently tap the foundation into the groove. You may have to test it first and go with a blade that will allow for a snug fit and you wont need any glue that way. You can use 1x lumber if you are in a climate zone with mild winters. I'm going to be releasing a video in a week or two that features a plywood Layens hive - so stay tuned. If you need further help feel free to email me at enjoybeekeeping@gmail.com Thanks!
Consider using Advantech instead of plywood. Advantech is very weather resistant and does not desalination like plywood.
You can also use you table saw and set a fence at an angle across the table. Run the sides over the barely raised blade before cutting to thickness
At a 1/4 deep
That's a great vido. I am converting over to the layens system of natural bee keeping myself. I to make all my own equipment. I use a router and table to taper the side bars. It works well.
I did have success using the router table and a dado blade on my table saw as well. I really like the look of the taper - very classy, but sometimes I have to get down and dirty and go with a straight 1" side arm if I'm cranking out a few hundred and need them fast. Bee safe with your shop tools! :)
Love the music!
Layens are in metric though nowadays there is a slight difference
Enjoyed your video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
So you do not have to taper the side bars? They can just be straight 1 inch side bars? Do you still get the correct bee space that way?
That's correct - I met with Dr Leo last year and he confirmed the use of a basic 1" wide side bar if you don't have a lot of shop equipment. Just use a little extra care in case you need to move the hive around. The top bars will determine your bee space. 1 3/8" wide top bars is more suitable for bees, BUT the Layens frame plan calls for 1 1/2" - I've actually used both, but it's easier just to stick with ONE size for all of your bee hives.
Thank you so much. That is a game changer for me because I wasn't sure how I was going to do that part but knowing now that I don't is awesome. Thank you so much. Your channel is great and I get a lot of information from it.
FYI - those touching top bars make it a major PITA to feed bees from the top.
I advise against them.
I since have converted nearly all of my touching top bars into Lang frame top bar design.
Soft cover over the frames works just the same and better.
This, unless you swear to never, ever feed your bees. :)
You can place a jar feeder inside the Layens hive off to one side sitting on the floor. Just make sure your bees don't build around it once they get going on their build up phase. This has worked fine - but I agree if you're used to top feeders you have to make some type of adjustments. This is just one that I've used and it works . All the best to you
@@enjoybeekeeping5612 The thing is - you can not feed on the floor when snow and freeze. The only way for the hard feed during the freezing winter is directly on the frames. Must have the pass-through top bars.
I just built 90 frames and used the table saw method then cut the little curve with a scroll saw. I did 10 full foundations for 2 swarm traps and then 10 additional wired frames and used a 1” strip of wax foundation slid into an 1/8” curf like you have done and I heated the wire to help secure the wax. Is the wax foundation strong enough? I like your honey extraction method also! I wondered how to extract without using a spinner. Great Video!
The wax will be secure enough for the bees to get started and then as soon as they build on it just a little it will become just as secure as if they did it all themselves. Prior to me getting a honey extractor I did the cut out, crush and strain method for 12 years. I recommend the one Dr Leo sells on his website horizontalhive.com
Gene how do you modify the langstroth frames top bar to work for layers? Because on your video it appears to have the original ends. It didn’t appear you made a splice in the middle. Thanks.
The layens hive is very interesting with the long frames. I'm sure you hear this a lot but how do you get your honey out of the frames..Nice video and thanks for the information!!
Great question. I just got an extractor that takes the Layens frames as well as standard Langstroth frames. If you look at my previous videos from 2020 I have a few of me doing the extracting. If you don't have an extractor like me for the previous 12 years I just did cut comb, crush and strain. Feel free to check them out. All the best!
I noticed you did not use any glue on the joints. Was this just for demo purposes?
whats the bamboo skewer for? newbie here.
Yo, make a video on a layens hive frame that the bees will stop cross combing.
Will do.....thanks for the input.
Gene do you get more cross combing using just 1” guide. I saw on Dr. Leo’s site and he says use at least 3” guide to prevent cross combing. What’s your experience?
"IF" you are a DIY woodworker, why wouldn't you make your equipment to fit your original honey extractor? No reason to be compatible with everyone else unless you do it commercially. I'd say the size of a deep super on it's side just like how you extract the honey except as wide as the extractor will accommodate. .
I've never owned an extractor until a couple years ago and I got it from Dr Leo. It will take both Layens and Langstroth frames which is cool, so you don't need more than one extractor.
Thanks very much for your excellent informative videos. I have just finished building my first Layens hive out of pine. Do you treat the hive wood? Was thinking of tung oil or linseed oil, should I bother?
I only treat the outside with a mineral based eco friendly stain, or paint. Nothing ever on the inside
Which style of top bar do you prefer? The Layens style or the Langstroth style?
I prefer the Layens because there is less disturbance on the bees. I only move enough frames usually just a few to see how things are looking and then close it back up without even moving through the rest of the hive. I only use the modified Layens to fit beetle traps in between the frames.
Are you gonna do that a bevel with a dado blade on the tablesaw there’s a video on it how to make side pieces for Langstroth frames
How do you install and keep a wax starter strip on?
I had tried to squeeze it in and under the heat of the day they just fell out
I pinch the wax starters between the wood cleats and nail in with an air brad nailer, other times I use melted wax to secure a strip in a top bar with a groove cut down the length. I'll have to shoot some videos soon on this
So how do you cut the sides on the table saw or jointer?
Thanks for the video. Where do you get your lumber from? Any tips on buying lumber for making frames?
I do dumpster dive on occasion at construction sites, and I always put the word out to wood workers that I'll take almost any size "waste" since beekeeping stuff calls for such small pieces that most guys throw away. I also have made a contact with a custom furniture factory that sells me anything that gets discontinued or water damaged super cheap. Just put the word out and only buy if you absolutely have to in order to have your equipment ready for bees. Once people know what you're doing - they are happy to help you out.
hi i have watching your videos and i am thinking about using the layens hive are a Idea from them. I live in the Caribbean and I am not sure if they will work.
If you do, add a ventilation hole at the top. These work in any climate, but you could probably do fine with 3/4" thick walls instead of 1 1/2"
Did you purchase or build your frame jig? Very nice video, thank you.
I built mine - Dr Leo has plans on his site or if you go to the FREE STUFF section on my site I'm pretty sure I've got some there also. enjoybeekeeping.com