Hi buddy,any idea on the gun bay colours. Im making the ICM kit. Never again. Great details but awful instructions,no close ups and no info on the options as in which go with what etc. PS: I love how after making and bothering to video a whole build the nit pickers start saying what colour shoe laces Douglas Bader had on when he flew his VB and whether he had dropped a sweet wrapper in the cockpit and was it a Quality Street toffee and therefore what colour were they in 1941-44 etc. Hey lets see the critics finished result on their models!!! Good grief. I learnt a lot off yr video and admire yr patience. Saw 14 Spits flying at Duxford so am lining up my variants to build as we speak ( after I wipe the silly post- Duxford smile off my face)
Most images show a semi-matte aluminium colour or light aircraft grey. Hope this helps 👍And you're right, not sure of a lot of people understand that its hard to get detail whilst recording video. I have one take at the build and can't hit the magic undo button once its filmed or the video wouldn't make any sense and be about 4 days long. So sometimes it doesn't go all so well... Good job I'm not a brain surgeon hey!
@@TheInnerNerd All looked great to me. Thank you for yr time and help. Im back to the hobby I left a few decades ago. I learnt to superdetail in the 80s and was shocked to find so many companies making kits and photoetch etc. Wow! And after a year and a half I found out what a stash was!! 60+ and counting. Ill be watching yr vids as I go along. Cheers matey
Amazing work. Thank you for sharing. I have 2 Ed Spitfires to build and even if I follow everything you did, I know it would not come out half as nice.
You have God-given hands. Do you know how much easier this could be in Photoshop? (a joke) What a beautiful end result you got. You surpassed reality. Total WOW! PS. I like your music.
Wow stunning!! What do you use to dilute x 22? What % do you use? I tried alcohol or water at 50% but it makes dust and the Paint is not shining as it should be...now i use something Like future but it is less shining than x22.Thanks For help!!
Marco Prodan Thank you!. I use roughly a 50/50 with X20A thinner. This thins it more than necessary for airbrishing but helps achieve a more glossy finish after around 3 layers
I could watch these for hours,you really are a very skilled model maker,wish i had only 1% of of your skill-what is the brand/type of airbrush your using?
hey, could you do a forge world kit, i know you normally just do aircraft and the odd tank, but i think it would be really interesting to watch you try and build one.
A really nice kit of a Spitfire and very well built, the only disappointment I find with these larger scale Spitfire kits is that they never seem to include the option of the visible U/C down indicators built into the wings which, once you get above 1/72, are fairly prominent with the U/C down.
Usually you use the humbrol clearcoat. Why do you use x22 this time? How did you thin it? I made my first oil washing this weekend... now parts are coming off... I used Turpentine. That must be the reason. Ill try shellsol next time. what do you use as a thinner for oilwashings?
FoxD13 The Humbrol ran out so i replaced it with Tamiya X-22 for a like-for-like brand to my paint. Od layed too thickly the Humbrol would crack, X-22 hasn't. Also I use white spirit for my oil washes. I don't know why bits are falling off? Something must be reacting with your glue
Not to sound like a rivet counter but that is an E variant. The C variant has the rounded wing tips. Just an observation but hey, its a very well build model! I loved it!
I use White Spirit for the thinning of the oils and washes. The easin why it doesn't take any other layers with it is because the varnish clear coat is lacquer based and acts as a barrier
Awesome work as always. did you clean off the compound with water after polishing it? i heard that it melts paints if u leave it for a long time. So I never tried using compound abov any layer of paint so far
Absolutely bloody fantastic model. I’ve picked up some great tips from this video. I’m subscribed and I love watching your videos. A master with an airbrush. Quick question do you thin the Tamiya X22 clear or spray neat. Thanks again for sharing your work and your tips. 👍🏻
Hi Mark, Thank you and yes I recognize you as a subscriber! I do thin the X-22 yes, just as I would regular Tamiya acrylics with X-20A. Glad the videos are useful and help you learn, much appreciate the comment
hi, me again i always spam comments sorry. I have a little more air brush experience, however with the post shading of heavily thinned brown, do you find that it will be too runny and splatter everywhere? I tried this technique on my model before primer and it splattered.
Zilched No problem at all asks as many questions as you like. I think that the paint may be thinned too much if it is starting to splattee. Maybe reduce the ratio by 1/2 drops of thinner and try again 👍
The Inner Nerd I see other people doing ratios of 10-90 I don’t know the exact ratio I tested but it might have been just the unprimed glossy plastic that it didn’t stick to.
Zilched How are you post-shading onto unprimed glossy plastic? Its supposed to be done after the paint is applied. a vast majority of paints dry matte. I would recomment using a varnish of a different nature to the paint (IE Enamel paint - acrylic varnish or vise versa) so that you can wipe off your post shading with thinner if need be. I typically model F1 cars but I've done my fair share of airplanes. If you want I'll throw you my FB name and help you out over there.
Francis Paré The sanding is to reduce the rise in clear coat created by the decal layer. Apply 3 layers of clear after the decals and let it cure for at least 48 hours. Then sanding the surface as shown will make the surface level again ready for polishing. I do this on all my models yes as a smoother surface is achieved by doig this process
ive got my airbrush and just painted my first model with it, same british camoflage as yours except its a 1/48 canberra (over 40 cm wing span). I noticed that a little bit of paint had gone under the masking tape. i just used ordinary masking tape not the tamiya ones. should I buy tamiya masking tape for my next model?
Zilched I would highly recommend Tamiya masking tape as a replacement to regular yes. You will achieve much crisper edges. I also recomment Tamiya masking tape for curves. See how the different masking tape work on this video and good luck! ruclips.net/video/hfwcgQzeN00/видео.html
I want to start posting more and better vids, i want more views, what are some popular tamiya, airfix, revell or hasegawa kits? Cuase some just arent very popular. Should i get a 1/72 bomber and two 1/72 ww2 fighters, or 2 ww2 1/48 fighters?
Unfortunately RUclips picked up a copyright claim for the track used at that time so instead of removing the entire video my only option was to remove the clip so that the video would remain live
It's to remove the orange peel effect created by the clear layers. Sanding it smooth with fine papers and sponges removed this effect and makes the surface smooth again
@@fighterace316You have to be VERY careful. I spray 3 layers of clear and allow to properly cure for at least 24 hours. Then use 2000 grit and 3000 grit sponges or just take off the too surface of the clear to make it smooth. Take it too far and it will not only rub through your decal but also your paint all the way down to the plastic. Let the sponge do the work and press lightly
Phenomenal work. I would love to have such talent. Not familiar with Eduard models myself but was thinking of getting their mark IX plus all the extra stuff (panels, cockpit, engine etc), what concerns me though is the fit of the fuselage on this one appears to be pretty average to say the least. Anyone have experience of the mark IX?
@@Baddad36 Thank you! Eduard are one of the best manufacturers I have built. The out of the box detail and fit is great and I highly recommend their Spitfire kits & BF109's too they're sooooo good. Maybe not for the inexperienced modeller though - some parts are a little tricky to handle, particularly the PE that comes with ProfiPack editions like this one. And a little bit of skill when painting is needed to make the details they supply really 'pop'. But still recommend them as a brand! The fuselage fit is mainly down to dry fitting and skill with the clamps. It's difficult to show a perfect fit on camera as you have one shot at making it fit. The all the fettling has to be done off-film to get the join as good as possible.
don't get me wrong , your model building skills are great, but why the gap between the the two fuselage halfs behind the rear Canopy? that blew the build for me. Sorry just being honest . Please don't take this as an insult i love your attention to detail and you should be proud of your skills.
Better than I could do. Well I have built a model kit in about 40 years so that’s was an easy win. I did noticed the body lettering transfers weren’t identical on both sides. Also the top of the fuselage behind the canopy was split to even after you finished. Apart from that good job😜
Говорится о том что покрываете одним слоем и убираете,потом опять покрываете и опять же убираете слой, либо покрыли одним слоем потом другим,потом третьим, а предыдущие слои исчезают полностью под новым слоем. Вот такое странное понятие вашей работы, зато красиво и исторически! Удачи Вам!!!
I have watched several of your builds. They all have the same problem. There is a saying "you can not build castles on sand".At least on this model, you tried to get the top front seam right, but you sanded the top flat and you can still see the seam.Why go through all the work on the finishing when you do not get the seams right.
Filling seems is my least favourite part of any build. The videos aren't so much about "look at how good (or bad) I can build this model". More this is the process I use to get the result. It's more a learning video. Make the model how you like and many people can do a better job than I, but I don't upload them for judgement. It helps people decide on whether to buy the kit, see what tools and processes are used or just for some inspiration. I have now learned how to fill seams properly which you can see in my later videos
Thank you and sorry that you didn't like the music. Hopefully my more recent content is more relaxing to listen to. This was before I had proper music licensing for my content. Thanks for watching :)
Hi buddy,any idea on the gun bay colours. Im making the ICM kit. Never again. Great details but awful instructions,no close ups and no info on the options as in which go with what etc. PS: I love how after making and bothering to video a whole build the nit pickers start saying what colour shoe laces Douglas Bader had on when he flew his VB and whether he had dropped a sweet wrapper in the cockpit and was it a Quality Street toffee and therefore what colour were they in 1941-44 etc. Hey lets see the critics finished result on their models!!! Good grief. I learnt a lot off yr video and admire yr patience. Saw 14 Spits flying at Duxford so am lining up my variants to build as we speak ( after I wipe the silly post- Duxford smile off my face)
Most images show a semi-matte aluminium colour or light aircraft grey. Hope this helps 👍And you're right, not sure of a lot of people understand that its hard to get detail whilst recording video. I have one take at the build and can't hit the magic undo button once its filmed or the video wouldn't make any sense and be about 4 days long. So sometimes it doesn't go all so well... Good job I'm not a brain surgeon hey!
@@TheInnerNerd All looked great to me. Thank you for yr time and help. Im back to the hobby I left a few decades ago. I learnt to superdetail in the 80s and was shocked to find so many companies making kits and photoetch etc. Wow! And after a year and a half I found out what a stash was!! 60+ and counting. Ill be watching yr vids as I go along. Cheers matey
That is simply a perfect Spitfire build. Love finishing and tone techniques. with the varnish, polishing pads and washes,
Always admire the finish of these models, you and your fellow modellers are a very dedicated bunch.
As always, museum quality workmanship, thanks for sharing.
more than amazing !
thanks a ton for sharing your projects!
Fantastic! It doesn't get any better than that, no doubt about it.
Outstanding work as always. Great tip about the pre-paint wash!
That was terrific. Great build.
you make it look effortless. great build
Excellent work, great music!. Thanks for the video
Wow...... Just Wow
Thank you for the video and your hard work. Looks beautiful.
Great work. Very impressive result. Thanks for this nice video.
Well done sir!! Seriously, another awesome build.
Потрясающая работа!!!
Very nice build. The Spitfire is a great airplane, and you have done it justice. Regards, Solomon
Brilliant work, thanks for sharing
Wonderful as usual!
Modelling excellence. Can't wait to borrow your Tamiya mixes too.
I have to admit you are the first person i saw to polish a spitfire but the result is amazing
Really love this model, these Eduard spits look awesome, might have to get one down the line.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks
Looks awesome great job 👍
Thanks for responding that clears it up, fantastic build hope to have half of your talent someday, well done brother
Stunning
Stunning video, shows the care you put into building models.
Nie wiem co powiedzieć po prostu wspaniały
:D
Very nice work! And from Polish squadron! ;) Cheers! ;)
a simply stunning build and the clip at the end is totally Awsome. ....almost took his head off 😂
Robert voss Its a great clip of you dont expect it!!
That's right , he's so low he's lost in the trees in the distance till the last minute. a brilliant clip to end
Very nice indeed, I'm diggin it!!
Thumbs up for a great job.
Great ideas & techniques
You sir do a good job!you make me want to start building/detailing models.Thank You for letting us know what you use to do the work.
Awesome work as always and such a cool aircraft kutgw cheers 🍻🍺
Amazing work. Thank you for sharing. I have 2 Ed Spitfires to build and even if I follow everything you did, I know it would not come out half as nice.
You have God-given hands. Do you know how much easier this could be in Photoshop?
(a joke)
What a beautiful end result you got. You surpassed reality. Total WOW!
PS. I like your music.
Awesome stuff
Great !
This is modern day artwork, love it👍
Wow stunning!! What do you use to dilute x 22? What % do you use? I tried alcohol or water at 50% but it makes dust and the Paint is not shining as it should be...now i use something Like future but it is less shining than x22.Thanks For help!!
Marco Prodan Thank you!. I use roughly a 50/50 with X20A thinner. This thins it more than necessary for airbrishing but helps achieve a more glossy finish after around 3 layers
I could watch these for hours,you really are a very skilled model maker,wish i had only 1% of of your skill-what is the brand/type of airbrush your using?
Doe DOE Thank you. There are plenty more videos on my channel with hours of footage 😁. I use a Sealy AB933. Details in the description above ^
just wow, it looks amazing! where did you learn all those techniques?
justarandomname56 _ Thank you! I've picked them up.as I go along & watching others. I've been modelling a year now so have a few builds for experience
The Inner Nerd
Well, that explains a lot. good luck with future models!
hey, could you do a forge world kit, i know you normally just do aircraft and the odd tank, but i think it would be really interesting to watch you try and build one.
A really nice kit of a Spitfire and very well built, the only disappointment I find with these larger scale Spitfire kits is that they never seem to include the option of the visible U/C down indicators built into the wings which, once you get above 1/72, are fairly prominent with the U/C down.
Thank you. This isn't something I was aware of but on my next Spitfire build I'll be sure to try to scratch build one if I can! Thanks for watching :)
Usually you use the humbrol clearcoat. Why do you use x22 this time? How did you thin it?
I made my first oil washing this weekend... now parts are coming off... I used Turpentine. That must be the reason. Ill try shellsol next time. what do you use as a thinner for oilwashings?
FoxD13 The Humbrol ran out so i replaced it with Tamiya X-22 for a like-for-like brand to my paint. Od layed too thickly the Humbrol would crack, X-22 hasn't. Also I use white spirit for my oil washes. I don't know why bits are falling off? Something must be reacting with your glue
try pure gum turpentine from barretine,your bits will not drop off lol
Awesome!!!!
Perfect.👍🏼
Not to sound like a rivet counter but that is an E variant. The C variant has the rounded wing tips. Just an observation but hey, its a very well build model! I loved it!
LT Models
Eduard is the one who issued the kit, blame them and not him.
This is how conversation about models should be. Not the other guy before in all caps
When I was a kid, to me a gloss finish just looked plain wrong, but the way you do it these days it looks brilliant!
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Great job! Just one question, if you may - what is the thinning ration of the clear xf-22? 1:3?
Jan Tichy Thank you. Yes roughly 1:3, sprays through the brush at 22psi and 0.25mm needle with ease
Thank You! It helps, I´ve been struggling a little with the right ratio for some tome!
where did you get the tweezors?
43rocket You can find them online or at most model shops. Straight Pointed tip is the type
Why do you sand and compound the clear coats ?
Francis Paré The clear has an orange peal finish. Flatting and polishing the surface removes this as well as reduces the bump created by the decals
verry nice i do like it
what thinner do you use with the oil paint? doesn´t it remove the barnish layer? thanks!
I use White Spirit for the thinning of the oils and washes. The easin why it doesn't take any other layers with it is because the varnish clear coat is lacquer based and acts as a barrier
Awesome work as always.
did you clean off the compound with water after polishing it? i heard that it melts paints if u leave it for a long time. So I never tried using compound abov any layer of paint so far
Leo Y Yes wash off immediately with water. Im not sure about it melting paint but I never gave it chance to. Washing off is just part of the process
What does tamiya compound do?
Tim's scale model building If you watch my video on how to use polishing compounds it will explain the types and results
I would love to purchase one of your beautiful models for my son, who is getting married next year, he loves this kind of stuff.
Is it possible ??
What the paper at 8:42?
Absolutely bloody fantastic model. I’ve picked up some great tips from this video. I’m subscribed and I love watching your videos. A master with an airbrush. Quick question do you thin the Tamiya X22 clear or spray neat. Thanks again for sharing your work and your tips. 👍🏻
Hi Mark, Thank you and yes I recognize you as a subscriber! I do thin the X-22 yes, just as I would regular Tamiya acrylics with X-20A. Glad the videos are useful and help you learn, much appreciate the comment
Nice one thanks very much mate. Keep up the excellent work.
Stunning build. Shame about the spine seam popping open again.
guillows se5a could be a Nice challenge you should try it
If you sold this... How would it cost?
If you contact me through my email address I'll be able to give you a pricing there. Many thanks
Are you templar or assassin?
hi, me again i always spam comments sorry. I have a little more air brush experience, however with the post shading of heavily thinned brown, do you find that it will be too runny and splatter everywhere? I tried this technique on my model before primer and it splattered.
Zilched No problem at all asks as many questions as you like. I think that the paint may be thinned too much if it is starting to splattee. Maybe reduce the ratio by 1/2 drops of thinner and try again 👍
The Inner Nerd I see other people doing ratios of 10-90 I don’t know the exact ratio I tested but it might have been just the unprimed glossy plastic that it didn’t stick to.
Zilched How are you post-shading onto unprimed glossy plastic? Its supposed to be done after the paint is applied. a vast majority of paints dry matte. I would recomment using a varnish of a different nature to the paint (IE Enamel paint - acrylic varnish or vise versa) so that you can wipe off your post shading with thinner if need be. I typically model F1 cars but I've done my fair share of airplanes. If you want I'll throw you my FB name and help you out over there.
Why all the sanding after decals ? do you always do that on all your models ?
Francis Paré The sanding is to reduce the rise in clear coat created by the decal layer. Apply 3 layers of clear after the decals and let it cure for at least 48 hours. Then sanding the surface as shown will make the surface level again ready for polishing. I do this on all my models yes as a smoother surface is achieved by doig this process
ive got my airbrush and just painted my first model with it, same british camoflage as yours except its a 1/48 canberra (over 40 cm wing span). I noticed that a little bit of paint had gone under the masking tape. i just used ordinary masking tape not the tamiya ones. should I buy tamiya masking tape for my next model?
Zilched I would highly recommend Tamiya masking tape as a replacement to regular yes. You will achieve much crisper edges. I also recomment Tamiya masking tape for curves. See how the different masking tape work on this video and good luck! ruclips.net/video/hfwcgQzeN00/видео.html
Will look at that video. My expectations are too high! First model with airbrush.
😍😍😍
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
I want to start posting more and better vids, i want more views, what are some popular tamiya, airfix, revell or hasegawa kits? Cuase some just arent very popular. Should i get a 1/72 bomber and two 1/72 ww2 fighters, or 2 ww2 1/48 fighters?
Tim's scale model building Do whatever kits interest you. If your are interested in the subject it will show in your work. Better work = More views
Where’d the music go at 15 😦
Unfortunately RUclips picked up a copyright claim for the track used at that time so instead of removing the entire video my only option was to remove the clip so that the video would remain live
Why do you use the sanding sponge after the three layers of clear?
It's to remove the orange peel effect created by the clear layers. Sanding it smooth with fine papers and sponges removed this effect and makes the surface smooth again
The Inner Nerd Thanks for the reply, I thought you would of lost some decals when you sanded the clear
@@fighterace316You have to be VERY careful. I spray 3 layers of clear and allow to properly cure for at least 24 hours. Then use 2000 grit and 3000 grit sponges or just take off the too surface of the clear to make it smooth. Take it too far and it will not only rub through your decal but also your paint all the way down to the plastic. Let the sponge do the work and press lightly
Phenomenal work. I would love to have such talent. Not familiar with Eduard models myself but was thinking of getting their mark IX plus all the extra stuff (panels, cockpit, engine etc), what concerns me though is the fit of the fuselage on this one appears to be pretty average to say the least. Anyone have experience of the mark IX?
@@Baddad36 Thank you! Eduard are one of the best manufacturers I have built. The out of the box detail and fit is great and I highly recommend their Spitfire kits & BF109's too they're sooooo good. Maybe not for the inexperienced modeller though - some parts are a little tricky to handle, particularly the PE that comes with ProfiPack editions like this one. And a little bit of skill when painting is needed to make the details they supply really 'pop'. But still recommend them as a brand! The fuselage fit is mainly down to dry fitting and skill with the clamps. It's difficult to show a perfect fit on camera as you have one shot at making it fit. The all the fettling has to be done off-film to get the join as good as possible.
Is that one song from Assassins creed II?
I’m not sure since I’ve never played the game but I think it has been mentioned that it is in the comments below
don't get me wrong , your model building skills are great, but why the gap between the the two fuselage halfs behind the rear Canopy? that blew the build for me. Sorry just being honest . Please don't take this as an insult i love your attention to detail and you should be proud of your skills.
Wasnt there the slider for the canopy mounted? The gap wasn't visible later in the video.
Better than I could do. Well I have built a model kit in about 40 years so that’s was an easy win. I did noticed the body lettering transfers weren’t identical on both sides. Also the top of the fuselage behind the canopy was split to even after you finished. Apart from that good job😜
That is the slide of the canopy, not an artifact, it was there already on my Revell Spit Mark X 1/72 fifty years ago.
ОЧЕНЬ странный алгоритм действий!!! Последующее перекрывает предыдущее полностью! но красиво!
андрюха дрюхов Я действительно не понимаю, что вы подразумеваете под этим, но спасибо!
Говорится о том что покрываете одним слоем и убираете,потом опять покрываете и опять же убираете слой, либо покрыли одним слоем потом другим,потом третьим, а предыдущие слои исчезают полностью под новым слоем. Вот такое странное понятие вашей работы, зато красиво и исторически! Удачи Вам!!!
Nice built, but absolutly NOT XVIC version. This is E type wing version (all Mk.16 was the E type version, NOT C.
Petr Marek Thanks. Talk to Eduard they called it out as a 'C' on the instructions. I just built it
All hail the mighty rivet counter! for we must not enjoy our models.
I have watched several of your builds. They all have the same problem. There is a saying "you can not build castles on sand".At least on this model, you tried to get the top front seam right, but you sanded the top flat and you can still see the seam.Why go through all the work on the finishing when you do not get the seams right.
Filling seems is my least favourite part of any build. The videos aren't so much about "look at how good (or bad) I can build this model". More this is the process I use to get the result. It's more a learning video. Make the model how you like and many people can do a better job than I, but I don't upload them for judgement. It helps people decide on whether to buy the kit, see what tools and processes are used or just for some inspiration. I have now learned how to fill seams properly which you can see in my later videos
I just did a Revell 1/48 mkii spit and it was horrible. Badly moulded, unclear instructions, poor detail. This looks much better.
I've built 3 of these spitfire kits by eduard never had to use so much filler has this .only a small amount on the cowling .😆
David Jones Wow you must be amazing at building 😂
+The Inner Nerd yeah not to bad lol😊
+David Jones got another 5 of the edaurd spitfires to build .a mark xvi high back a mk xvi bubble top .mk viii and the royal class mk ix 's 😃😆
David Jones Why? Who needs them? Is there a movie coming?
Good build video but the music is atrocious. Sorry. Had to put it on mute.
Thank you and sorry that you didn't like the music. Hopefully my more recent content is more relaxing to listen to. This was before I had proper music licensing for my content. Thanks for watching :)
Mmm I like this, I mean its ok I just thought it was very basic. Could have put a bit more detail in I thought!
Simon Collins Thank you. What would you suggest I make more detailed for next time so I can improve my future projects?
The Inner Nerd maybe he meant the kit itself.