Regarding 0:23 I was mistaken. The other DPS5005 power supply is still working, it was just a loose connection in the input power terminal that was causing it not to work at the time I made this video.
What you said about soldering in reference to Murphy's law; it's absolutely true and happens with me too often. Sometimes I solder pads or wires very neatly and evenly which also so shiny that I could see my face on it. The moment I start feeling great about it, I'd find that I did something really wrong; may be forgot to insert a sleeve, a washer, nut, or a cap. Some might say it's my negligence not doing it correctly at first. But I always try to give extra care to do the soldering and wiring perfect except this happens often.
Besides sometimes forgetting something that should have been put over the wire before soldering I also find that while I was focused on soldering the heat shrink has slid close to the iron and shrunk. So I have to desolder, get the heat shrink off and do it again. Almost always the solder joint the first time looked absolutely great.
wow. I've been holding off getting one of those supplies because of no case. looks great! More quiet fans are pretty cheap if the noise bothers you. fan noise doesn't bother me. Some noise seems right when I'm in the lab.
If your having trouble with solder joints not looking good, especially if you are reflowing existing solder, try adding a bit of rosin flux before reflowing. The flux residue is messy but it can be cleaned off with alcohol or acetone.
Old video but just wanted to mention that this type of casing is used for many types of electronics and can be open from a side like a book, and closed too. No need to slide the halves into the slots.
nice assembly follow along. i was thinking could use 14 even 16 gauge wire for how short the distance is. this would help with assembly not dealing with stiff wires. i guess it depends on how many amps for how long.
I like the idea of having the unit boot up but not yet turned on to provide power... something of a safety issue to force me to turn on the power with that power button once I have double checked the values that are about to be introduced into whatever this unit is hooked up to. If this unit were last set on some higher values than the circuit can deal with, and power was applied the instant the unit is given connection to power, then the hooked up circuit might get fried. Thinking of those times when things are turned off at night, new circuits are plugged in "ready to go" except that the power supply unit has not been set to the new circuit values... switch on... SMOKE!
I have a similar model however mine can be controlled by computer via Bluetooth and USB. When you order it the usb and Bluetooth are options available for a little more money. The software is a bit odd but a free download. Also it’s possible to put in a switch to turn the back fan off. It’s worth pointing out that if you want to power this from the mains you need a separate DC power supply. Banggood sell these.
whilst correct, you're better off just adding a thermostat so it's silent unless it's over x degrees. I screwed my thermostat to the same TO220 existing screw.
I have just started fabricating a case for mine, but bigger so as to hold the 600w SMPS to drive it, I might get the pre made case for the 5A one I haven't yet used, after seeing your video. Looks good, I can fit the 180w 36v board in the back. The auto start enable is very good if you want to use it for integrated applications where it just needs to work all the time, in a power failure it will re start by itself. Anyway, another good video, cheers.
simontay1984 i had a 48v 13A smps recovered from an industrial mocon motor drive unit awaiting recycling. Bang have 400w version's listed, could stack two as they have voltage trimming onboard.
Sorry was getting excited, thought this was a replacement 100 volt dc power supply for your cnc router motor. Will have to go back and check your videos on that because I never got rid of the same issue you had with missing steps when using the same spindle and power supply you had. Great video anyway, thanks
Missing steps was not the problem I had. Mine was completely losing contact between the arduino and the laptop. Missed steps could be because your motors are not powerful enough, or the frame is not rigid enough, or you're trying to move too fast. Perhaps you could give bluetooth or some other wireless method a try.
12:21 They could improve the experience by including a User's Manual. I have a 3205 with the same high quality case. I needed 0.001 A increment adjustments and display. Pretty good PS for the price. BTW for the noisy fan you can install an in line resistor on the fan power leads to slow the fan by dropping the voltage a bit.
There is a manual included, but it's not all that easy to understand and coupled with the slightly strange UI was what made me not bother to figure out how to use the presets with the previous model. The manual is just the same as the scanned text on the product listing page.
I've had an impulse to get one of these 2 or 3 times before. It certainly has a very nice look and seems to be a great value !! But I sill prefer the classic "twist knob" approach to setting voltage and current limit values in real time. I just can't get into all that fiddling about with buttons to set it up !! Maybe it;s just me !! ;)
Not just you. I might end up with one but that push-turn-tap etc. will drive me nuts. I dithered on getting a used BK Precision Model 1735 30V 3A with coarse and fine knobs and two large numeral displays for Volts / Amps, plus 3 (Blk-Grn-Red) terminals. Monster transformer. Would have been problem solved but I thought at the time I can't be spending $100 on more stuff I don't absolutely need. I'll be into $100 by the time I cobble together one of these things properly by the look of it.
I bought a DP50V5A after I watched your video on it. I had a case from an old router that housed the unit nicely, and it still works great. I will make sure I stay clear of any foam cutting tho'! It's interesting that your new one is higher rated, has a really classy looking case, and is only around two thirds the price of the first one! Maybe I DO need a second one :o)
Just like it used to say on my school reports: "must pay more attention"! After I watched this video I thought "I like the look of that, I wonder what it costs", so I watched it again, and at 1:30 there was a pic of the complete unit showing the price of US$19.99. If I had paid attention, I would have worked out that price is for the case only! It seemed too good to be true... and of course it was! Still, I do like the look of it. :o) Apologies to anyone I confused.
Hi, Thank you for the video, subscribed. May I ask what is the difference between these units that don’t have the ‘power board’ as a separate unit as in this video. Tue appear to be all complete in the control unit casing? Cheers
And now (maybe you are aware) the developer, Rd Tech, has released models with Bluetooth and USB communication capabilities. _Cool!_ Anyways, THX! for the vids! I always get something outta them. :*) Especially when they go way beyond my limited know-how! :*○
You really should thread the wires through the holes and secure them mechanically by bending them around the posts. Soldering is not a secure connection by itself. Whenever the solder joint would break the wire should stay in place.
wow! I did watch your 1st vid on the 5015 and went out & bought one - loved it but, as you know, it was unwieldy w/o any case. My new one just arrived today & searching for an assembly for it, ran across your vid on it. I don't know how i missed the vid when you 1st put it out 'cause I'm a big fan and have just finished going through your quad for beginners series (also great). anyway, I'll be using this as I put this puppy together later on this week. thanks for all your videos. are you still using the CNC with the water cooling unit? thanks again, Russ from Coral Springs, Florida, USA
It's Father's Day today perfect for a little gift like this. Can you set the voltage to a certain number for instants 12 V. and then increase the amperage with the rotary encoder.
I'm considering buying one, I'm wondering could you test a homemade electromagnet with it? Like just wind wire arround a nail and hook it up directly to the power supply and set the power to like maybe 6 volts, I want to know if it works because my previous buck converter type things never worked with a electromagnet
Wow, that case looks really nice! I did not expect this level of fit and finishing. For what is included it is still reasonably cheap. At the end: you switched off the PSU without leaving the setting screen the first time. I think you said yourself you have to be careful what buttons to press for the settings to be saved. If the fan annoys you, there are several things you can do: First get a new fan ;) . Maybe the included one is just crappy and loud (although most small ones are). Better way would be to add temperature control, so it only runs when needed (you could also hook up the second fan to that). There are simple circuits with just an opamp or NE555, a transistor, NTC and a few resistors for on/off control with hysteresis. Or you could go for temperature speed control. Most circuits you find that do voltage controlled PWM (at 5V) should be useable with slight adaptation. E.g. 3 opamps, (two to create a triangle wave and a third one to compare to a voltage derived from the NTC) is an easy one. A quad rail-to-rail (because of the low voltage) opamp (like an LMV324, you could say that's the rail-to-rail version of the LM324), the NTC, a switching transistor and your usual assortment of small parts like resistors and capacitors is all you need.
Found another simple circuit based on a chip that's built for exactly that (and available on ebay): www.instructables.com/id/Temperature-controlled-fan-speed-using-PWM/
Tsk tsk, yeah throw a micro controller at everything. The art of analog design is dead. JK ;) Probably would do the same with those clone Arduino micros costing only a few bucks and in the end being more versatile and most likely hassle free.
@@iforce2d First, Thanks for your quick answer! Okay. 2. Which Power Adapter can you recommend me, If I want to use the Selfmade power supply to charge batteries?
It looked a nice case and pcb but not impressed with the front.The pressing of buttons was ridiculous for a cheap power supply. I couldn't stand all the fumbling about, LOL. I build my own, using modules in some of them, and like to control the voltage and current with pots then get on with what I wanted to do. I like many of your other videos but not this one eg "Which memory, will it save, do I switch off or on, does it delete all settings"?
? That would depend on what power output and input voltage you have... from the specs on the product page: Input voltage range: 6.00-60.00V Output power range: 0-750W If the maximum output power is 750W then the maximum input power is also about 750W. So the maximum input current will be 750 divided by the input voltage.
hELLO THERE . OH OK SO THIS DEVICE IS SIMPLY LIKA A WATER PIPE JUST REGULATED ONE WELL JUST A REGULATOR I GUESS . SO I GUESS THE WHOLE NIGHTMARE GOT CLEARED OUT
So if you have a light globe 12v and you set it at 12v can you actually determine how much current it gets regardless of what it wants to draw at 12volts?
I got one fo these to power a telescope remotely. It works, but I have to turn it on with a button press. Is there any way to program it so that it's always on? I'm not local to the unit when I'm using it. I'm remote. I turn on the telescope from a AC switch. But this won't power up if I'm not present = (
I am thinking of getting one but the more i watch it seems that there have no protection and are easy to kill. I read that a lot of people killed them. Are those new units have some additional protection to not be killed easily? Otherwise they are not worth money. It would be useful to implement some kind of protect to them or. something that even if something goes wrong it will not be totally destroyed?
Mine bernd up when i was powering a dc motor but i think i know how i t hapend. I turned the switch off but the motor was spining so fast i think it fed back some current. Maby i shuld have used the diode that they give you for charging batteris with it.
iforce2d i think you have to buy the version that das not require the shotky diode to charge the batteries. I think is the 30v 5a version. It says it on the chart. I bought that one for that reason now. I hope is going to last coz i do like them.
My word the interface is just *awful*. I wonder if it is worth bootstrapping a bench supply project by ripping out their analog power stage and replacing the control front end with a sane setup. I mean is it so hard to have accelerating voltage/current selection via the encoder? ;)
How about you redo it, just download and edit to the perfect length, upload again, if it's so important. At least tell us what the errors were if you're gonna make accusations like that, otherwise your comment is too long and not so informative.
Regarding 0:23 I was mistaken. The other DPS5005 power supply is still working, it was just a loose connection in the input power terminal that was causing it not to work at the time I made this video.
lol
u can mute those few seconds of the video , as most people won't look at the comments and think the product is bad!! ;-)
Does either modules have CC CV ?
What you said about soldering in reference to Murphy's law; it's absolutely true and happens with me too often. Sometimes I solder pads or wires very neatly and evenly which also so shiny that I could see my face on it. The moment I start feeling great about it, I'd find that I did something really wrong; may be forgot to insert a sleeve, a washer, nut, or a cap. Some might say it's my negligence not doing it correctly at first. But I always try to give extra care to do the soldering and wiring perfect except this happens often.
Exactly !!! LOL !!
Besides sometimes forgetting something that should have been put over the wire before soldering I also find that while I was focused on soldering the heat shrink has slid close to the iron and shrunk. So I have to desolder, get the heat shrink off and do it again. Almost always the solder joint the first time looked absolutely great.
wow. I've been holding off getting one of those supplies because of no case. looks great! More quiet fans are pretty cheap if the noise bothers you. fan noise doesn't bother me. Some noise seems right when I'm in the lab.
I know right? It's funny that it was seeing the case that made me buy it :)
If your having trouble with solder joints not looking good, especially if you are reflowing existing solder, try adding a bit of rosin flux before reflowing. The flux residue is messy but it can be cleaned off with alcohol or acetone.
Old video but just wanted to mention that this type of casing is used for many types of electronics and can be open from a side like a book, and closed too. No need to slide the halves into the slots.
nice assembly follow along. i was thinking could use 14 even 16 gauge wire for how short the distance is. this would help with assembly not dealing with stiff wires. i guess it depends on how many amps for how long.
I like the idea of having the unit boot up but not yet turned on to provide power... something of a safety issue to force me to turn on the power with that power button once I have double checked the values that are about to be introduced into whatever this unit is hooked up to. If this unit were last set on some higher values than the circuit can deal with, and power was applied the instant the unit is given connection to power, then the hooked up circuit might get fried. Thinking of those times when things are turned off at night, new circuits are plugged in "ready to go" except that the power supply unit has not been set to the new circuit values... switch on... SMOKE!
I have a similar model however mine can be controlled by computer via Bluetooth and USB. When you order it the usb and Bluetooth are options available for a little more money. The software is a bit odd but a free download. Also it’s possible to put in a switch to turn the back fan off. It’s worth pointing out that if you want to power this from the mains you need a separate DC power supply. Banggood sell these.
Those 5v fans run quite nicely on 3.3v and it cuts the sound produced dramatically...
whilst correct, you're better off just adding a thermostat so it's silent unless it's over x degrees. I screwed my thermostat to the same TO220 existing screw.
I wanted a case that was large enough to put a transformer and bridge rectifier in it so it can be plugged into a wall socket.
I have just started fabricating a case for mine, but bigger so as to hold the 600w SMPS to drive it, I might get the pre made case for the 5A one I haven't yet used, after seeing your video. Looks good, I can fit the 180w 36v board in the back. The auto start enable is very good if you want to use it for integrated applications where it just needs to work all the time, in a power failure it will re start by itself. Anyway, another good video, cheers.
ah yes, that would make it quite useful to have then. I just figured that it would typically be used in a more interactive situation.
simontay1984
i had a 48v 13A smps recovered from an industrial mocon motor drive unit awaiting recycling.
Bang have 400w version's listed, could stack two as they have voltage trimming onboard.
Sorry was getting excited, thought this was a replacement 100 volt dc power supply for your cnc router motor. Will have to go back and check your videos on that because I never got rid of the same issue you had with missing steps when using the same spindle and power supply you had. Great video anyway, thanks
Missing steps was not the problem I had. Mine was completely losing contact between the arduino and the laptop. Missed steps could be because your motors are not powerful enough, or the frame is not rigid enough, or you're trying to move too fast. Perhaps you could give bluetooth or some other wireless method a try.
Sadly, the case kit is no longer available
Thanks Chris I was just looking at these on BG this morning actually. Great timing :)
12:21 They could improve the experience by including a User's Manual.
I have a 3205 with the same high quality case. I needed 0.001 A increment adjustments and display. Pretty good PS for the price.
BTW for the noisy fan you can install an in line resistor on the fan power leads to slow the fan by dropping the voltage a bit.
There is a manual included, but it's not all that easy to understand and coupled with the slightly strange UI was what made me not bother to figure out how to use the presets with the previous model. The manual is just the same as the scanned text on the product listing page.
Thanks for the reply... I got mine on AliExpress and received zero docs.
I've had an impulse to get one of these 2 or 3 times before. It certainly has a very nice look and seems to be a great value !! But I sill prefer the classic "twist knob" approach to setting voltage and current limit values in real time. I just can't get into all that fiddling about with buttons to set it up !! Maybe it;s just me !! ;)
Yeah, it might be nice if the rotary dial would change something (eg. voltage) even in the idle state, without having to use any other buttons first.
Drop in a good ol' 723 and two 2n3055's, one ton trafo - and that's my thing all day long :)
Not just you. I might end up with one but that push-turn-tap etc. will drive me nuts. I dithered on getting a used BK Precision Model 1735 30V 3A with coarse and fine knobs and two large numeral displays for Volts / Amps, plus 3 (Blk-Grn-Red) terminals. Monster transformer. Would have been problem solved but I thought at the time I can't be spending $100 on more stuff I don't absolutely need. I'll be into $100 by the time I cobble together one of these things properly by the look of it.
I bought a DP50V5A after I watched your video on it. I had a case from an old router that housed the unit nicely, and it still works great. I will make sure I stay clear of any foam cutting tho'! It's interesting that your new one is higher rated, has a really classy looking case, and is only around two thirds the price of the first one! Maybe I DO need a second one :o)
Not sure how you're figuring those prices... the first one I had was about $29. This new one is $36 and the case is $20
Just like it used to say on my school reports: "must pay more attention"! After I watched this video I thought "I like the look of that, I wonder what it costs", so I watched it again, and at 1:30 there was a pic of the complete unit showing the price of US$19.99. If I had paid attention, I would have worked out that price is for the case only! It seemed too good to be true... and of course it was! Still, I do like the look of it. :o)
Apologies to anyone I confused.
Hi, Thank you for the video, subscribed. May I ask what is the difference between these units that don’t have the ‘power board’ as a separate unit as in this video. Tue appear to be all complete in the control unit casing? Cheers
I think it's just that the higher power requirements of some versions mean the necessary components are too much to fit on the single small board.
iforce2d Thank you, thought it may be on those lines.
And now (maybe you are aware) the developer, Rd Tech, has released models with Bluetooth and USB communication capabilities. _Cool!_
Anyways, THX! for the vids! I always get something outta them. :*) Especially when they go way beyond my limited know-how! :*○
You really should thread the wires through the holes and secure them mechanically by bending them around the posts. Soldering is not a secure connection by itself. Whenever the solder joint would break the wire should stay in place.
wow! I did watch your 1st vid on the 5015 and went out & bought one - loved it but, as you know, it was unwieldy w/o any case. My new one just arrived today & searching for an assembly for it, ran across your vid on it. I don't know how i missed the vid when you 1st put it out 'cause I'm a big fan and have just finished going through your quad for beginners series (also great). anyway, I'll be using this as I put this puppy together later on this week. thanks for all your videos. are you still using the CNC with the water cooling unit?
thanks again,
Russ from Coral Springs, Florida, USA
Thanks for sharing this, a bit late to the pardy, per usual, but I found it useful and enjoyable... 👍🏻 😉 🐍
It's Father's Day today perfect for a little gift like this.
Can you set the voltage to a certain number for instants 12 V.
and then increase the amperage with the rotary encoder.
Yes, you can. Sorry, RUclips is not mailing me all the comment notifications these days...
I'm considering buying one, I'm wondering could you test a homemade electromagnet with it? Like just wind wire arround a nail and hook it up directly to the power supply and set the power to like maybe 6 volts, I want to know if it works because my previous buck converter type things never worked with a electromagnet
Now I watched this video ...thanks for the update. Again...have you used these to charge a Lithium battery?
Wow, that case looks really nice! I did not expect this level of fit and finishing. For what is included it is still reasonably cheap.
At the end: you switched off the PSU without leaving the setting screen the first time. I think you said yourself you have to be careful what buttons to press for the settings to be saved.
If the fan annoys you, there are several things you can do:
First get a new fan ;) . Maybe the included one is just crappy and loud (although most small ones are).
Better way would be to add temperature control, so it only runs when needed (you could also hook up the second fan to that). There are simple circuits with just an opamp or NE555, a transistor, NTC and a few resistors for on/off control with hysteresis.
Or you could go for temperature speed control. Most circuits you find that do voltage controlled PWM (at 5V) should be useable with slight adaptation. E.g. 3 opamps, (two to create a triangle wave and a third one to compare to a voltage derived from the NTC) is an easy one. A quad rail-to-rail (because of the low voltage) opamp (like an LMV324, you could say that's the rail-to-rail version of the LM324), the NTC, a switching transistor and your usual assortment of small parts like resistors and capacitors is all you need.
Found another simple circuit based on a chip that's built for exactly that (and available on ebay):
www.instructables.com/id/Temperature-controlled-fan-speed-using-PWM/
That looks like a fun little mod to make. I would probably be inclined to use an arduino since I have a bunch sitting around.
Tsk tsk, yeah throw a micro controller at everything. The art of analog design is dead. JK ;)
Probably would do the same with those clone Arduino micros costing only a few bucks and in the end being more versatile and most likely hassle free.
Everybody complains about the fan noise, I don't get it. I think it fine.
It is a nice case. But since it has no room for a transformer, a rectifier and some filter caps, you can not use it to build an AC powered unit.
You can buy the RD6006 now for this purpose
Where the waveform with the oscilloscope?
New Zealander here! Where abouts are you from in NZ?
Thanks for this. I'm going to get one of those cases
Great Thing!
What do you use for input Power?
Or which Power Adapter do you use?
So far I have just used a large lipo battery. I'm usually not using it for very long periods of time.
@@iforce2d First, Thanks for your quick answer!
Okay.
2. Which Power Adapter can you recommend me, If I want to use the Selfmade power supply to charge batteries?
It looked a nice case and pcb but not impressed with the front.The pressing of buttons was ridiculous for a cheap power supply. I couldn't stand all the fumbling about, LOL. I build my own, using modules in some of them, and like to control the voltage and current with pots then get on with what I wanted to do.
I like many of your other videos but not this one eg "Which memory, will it save, do I switch off or on, does it delete all settings"?
Isn't it a regulator. It doesn't come with a transformer.
HELLO THERE CAN SOME ONE TELL ME WHAT IS THE MAXIMUM INPUT CURRENT FOR THIS DEVICE ??? THANK YOU
ОТВЕТИТЬ
? That would depend on what power output and input voltage you have... from the specs on the product page:
Input voltage range: 6.00-60.00V
Output power range: 0-750W
If the maximum output power is 750W then the maximum input power is also about 750W. So the maximum input current will be 750 divided by the input voltage.
hELLO THERE . OH OK SO THIS DEVICE IS SIMPLY LIKA A WATER PIPE JUST REGULATED ONE WELL JUST A REGULATOR I GUESS . SO I GUESS THE WHOLE NIGHTMARE GOT CLEARED OUT
So if you have a light globe 12v and you set it at 12v can you actually determine how much current it gets regardless of what it wants to draw at 12volts?
yes
I got one fo these to power a telescope remotely. It works, but I have to turn it on with a button press. Is there any way to program it so that it's always on? I'm not local to the unit when I'm using it. I'm remote. I turn on the telescope from a AC switch. But this won't power up if I'm not present = (
15:29
New case appears to be made out of steel and not aluminum?
Yep RD Tech confirmed it
Hi. Can the product Limit the current while under the load?
yes, that's what the constant current setting does.
I am thinking of getting one but the more i watch it seems that there have no protection and are easy to kill. I read that a lot of people killed them. Are those new units have some additional protection to not be killed easily? Otherwise they are not worth money. It would be useful to implement some kind of protect to them or. something that even if something goes wrong it will not be totally destroyed?
Sorry I don't know much about that, I would guess it does not have the protection you're looking for. You really think it's not worth $36 though?
Well if it dies so easily like your previous one then it is not :/
iforce2d can you tell me what voltage and amp and watts to use to power the sky rc imax b6 charger I'm getting input volt error
12v / 6 amps should do it
Pretty sure there must be some specs info you can look up about that.
what heppend if i will use 55v 20a transformer and some protection and big cabels and it will give me full power?
yes
@@iforce2d A little late but that's not entirely true. That would be 1100 W and you can only draw 750 W (probably less)!
Where's the usb connection?
kekagiso there is no usb Connection.
What is that thing you are using to power it?
A battery. The case has no room for it, nor for a transformer if you would like to build an AC powered unit.
Mine bernd up when i was powering a dc motor but i think i know how i t hapend. I turned the switch off but the motor was spining so fast i think it fed back some current. Maby i shuld have used the diode that they give you for charging batteris with it.
hmm.... good to know. I wonder why it can't just have some protection in there to begin with.
iforce2d i think you have to buy the version that das not require the shotky diode to charge the batteries. I think is the 30v 5a version. It says it on the chart. I bought that one for that reason now. I hope is going to last coz i do like them.
how the heck do you screw in those fan bolts?
With a screwdriver.... maybe you could be more specific about what you're getting stuck on :)
iforce2d it wasn't clear that you need to push the bolts into the fan holes first.
Do you plug DC or AC in to it?
DC
So AC doesnt work? Would be weird to have a power supply for your power supply
well for the screen and case you buy more then the whole kit.But the supply is useless for serious use.
My word the interface is just *awful*. I wonder if it is worth bootstrapping a bench supply project by ripping out their analog power stage and replacing the control front end with a sane setup. I mean is it so hard to have accelerating voltage/current selection via the encoder? ;)
Guess it a matter of taste, love the front end and love the fan running all the time.
I've done a review for the housing for this power supply: ruclips.net/video/xNxexXCG5hE/видео.html
I ordered from Banggood $20 for the case
i broke my rotary encoder
Terry Peake
Sounds painful. lol
Just re-do the video, too long, not so informative, some errors too. Thanks but no thanks!
How about you redo it, just download and edit to the perfect length, upload again, if it's so important. At least tell us what the errors were if you're gonna make accusations like that, otherwise your comment is too long and not so informative.