That was fascinating Martin. Like you, most of my car mechanics was done in days before such things existed. Let's hope there are Ford mechanics amongst your 11,000 subscribers!
great video Martin and thats a handy tool to have i had one for my toyota celica and its a great help when identifying any problems like you say its better than changing out parts to fix a problem. im sure you'll get it sorted in no time. i look forward to the next video and as always i enjoyed it very much and its a thumbs up from me
patience , you got more than me I'd gone insane by now I'd rather have the Capri would be so much easier to diagnose lol . 😉 I think its all a big con what's the point of plugging in a laptop that says it maybe this maybe that just tell me what it is ! I truely believe it doesn't tell you exactly as local ford dealer can make loads of money saying it could be 4 things 800 quid later for the average Joe . Hope its solved soon. mate . see you on the next one 👍👍👍👍👍
I agree Paul but it's the way it is now I'm afraid so i'll have to learn. I'd rather do it than pass it over to a garage who are quite happy spending your money changing parts till they locate the problem.
Martin, This is the huge down side to modern cars and the car companies know you will have to go to there outlets to find the problem. It seems to me the amount of sensors there in cars now days is for there benifit not the owners. Cheers David
I agree Dave, Most of the engine management sensors are because of emission reg's but in my mind, it's overkill and it's too much technology for simple mechanical principles. Also, it's not the engines that go wrong, it's the sensors.Mad wor we live in now.
always good stuff from you mate...heres my tuppence worth....l had stuttering at motorway speeds....long story short,,stopped using supermarket diesel,,,,started with the premium diesel shell or bp....after 50 miles problem gone....mpg went up..so no real diffrence in price....should be first port of call cheers,,,keep up the good work
hi mate I am a UK mechanic I can tell u it's ur crank sensor mate I have done loads on these mondeos and once u have done that if will run like a dream good luck and keep up the good work love ur vids
might be worth just checking the fuel filter housing for air leaks mate as i said on facebook the one way valves on there sometimes give up or the o ring can give up (im not sure from looking at the filter video you did if you can change that valve or not), make sure the crankshaft sensor is not covered with oil or dirt. also i would have just added the temp sensor/sensors to the live data feed on the drive. there will be at least two sensors for the coolant temp, one will be for the gauge on instrument cluster and the other will be one for the ecu itself (im not 100% sure but i think the ecu monitors temp of the head rather than the temp of the coolant but it did see a few head temp sensors and coolant temp sensor on the live data)
Sometimes we have to go that bit further to find out what the problem is by plugging it into a computer but at least you did try and solve the problem though. My mechanic had to a live data test since i had an ABS fault.
Great video Martin, i did look up some of those codes and it seems to be,Reduced fuelling is one of the management strategies for error conditions in tddi . A common fault is poor contacts on the multiplug for the fuel pump to loom connector. Yellow release iirc. Worth removing and re seating a couple of times , checking the wiring for damage. Cheers, Jeff.
Old trouble shooting was so much easier. This is the problem with the newer cars, garage mechanics want to change it out one at a time till the fault goes away. This can cost a fortune. Like I was saying before, your car is acting like my Taurus. Ford knew what the problem was as they see the problems for each car and have built in knowledge. My Cam Timing Sensor looks like a small distributor with the sensor on top and 2 wires that attached to it. The bearing wears out and it wobbles causing the error. Didn't do it all the time though, I could drive a week with out a problem. This is why it was so frustrating. You can try spraying injector cleaner on the MAF too. Might be the crank sensor, it is the same thing as my Cam Sensor. Good luck Martin.
Martin...next port of call then...crank sensor!!! I hope its not the main fuel pump!!!! Even with the diagnostic bumph....still guesswork to a degree.... Great vid.
crank sensor is one of the key sensors that determine when to inject fuel based on.crank position/rotation and where the engine is in its cycle, from that info it can determine when to inject fuel, if the signal is faulty this will cause triggering and fueling errors. try logging.the signal from the crank sensor (cps) during a run it will be obvious if there is a problem (signal amplitude etc)
good video i ve had this same problem in my Mellenium Falcon but only when i engage light speed mode and only on the dark side of the universe cheers Hans Solo
Another great video. In regards to the 14.7 Air fuel ratio the ECU will only target that ratio on light throttle positions. 14.7 gives best economy. When you push the throttle past a certain point the ECU will ignore the O2 sensor readings and run in open loop where it only looks up at the fuel maps on the ecu and injects for maximum power, a richer mixture will be used for Max power. Modern cars now use wideband sensors that are able to target very specific AFR's. Amazing stuff. I have an aftermarket ecu that will effective map itself in terms of fuel. All you have to do is chose the ignition timing. Your problem seems to be under heavy throttle which suggest to me its one of the sensors that the ecu looks at when it runs in open loop mode ie MAF,MAP and crank sensor. I hope you get it sorted soon as these sort of issues can go on and on and you end up changing things you don't need to. Even the diagnostic tools can lead you down the wrong path sometimes.
I would say it's the crank sensor 100% also don't take this the wrong way but there are 2000 - 2003 mondeos with around 110k miles going for like 300-600 quid and I've seen you put a lot of money / effort into this car maybe treat yourself to a older more mechanic friendly car :) I've watched your page since your son's gilera runner rebuild as I rebuild scooters mainly Italian piaggios gilera ect and was suprised to see you actually did a perfect job on the runner engine rebuild credit were credits due you've got persistence I would have scrapped it back when it was in pieces with the sub frame off it lol but props to you mukka from one tinkerer to another adios omego
Haha, you've watched a lot of my vids then lol. The Mondeo has taught me a lot and the video also help others so I don't mind doing these jobs. Cheers Martin
crank position sensor is common.lots of stuff on line. check the colour. if i remember grey is good as the black ones fail. i used forscan to diagnose the current injector fault on mine. best tenner i ever spent. good luck
I would look at the lift pump if its pointing to a fuel problem. You want to look at FRP ( Fuel Rail Pressure) in forscan to see if it drops in live data.I don't know if the CYL 1234 will work in forscan, but that would also give you an idea if its an injector, it gives you a cylinder balance.
martin, with a 1564 code and fuel metering error code you are likely to have a problem with the solenoid at the fuel pump and or the wiring that comes from it and goes over the top of the starter motor the cables rub on the top of the starter motor and get frayed this is a common problem with transits which also have 2.0 lt tddi engines. or god forbid your fuel pump is on its last legs..............check them out and good luck my friend cheers willie
Thanks Willie, I'll be checking the Crank position sensor and the pump supply cables in the next vid so let's hope this is the problem as the fault codes suggest. Cheers Martin
great vid mate. Just been looking at wiring diagram for you car that module supply relay control under battery looks like it powers a fuel pump control module on top of high pressure pump will forward you diagram on Cheers Jamie
First off, I would check battery voltage and alternator output is in spec since any errors with basics won't always throw up a fault code or bring on the MIL. Then ensure all major earthing points are secure and free from corrosion since corroded earths can cause all sorts of weird symptoms. Check injector pump wiring loom and connector for signs of chafing, loose, corroded or damaged connector pins or oil or diesel contamination that's creeping under the loom insulation. Low voltage might be down to supply or signal wire that's going open circuit or intermittent high resistance due to heat, vibration etc. I'd also check low pressure lift pump power supply loom for damage etc.
Check live data of the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail with the crank sensor & if possible the metering sensor on the pump. If you can view all of mentioned, Then it can lead to pointing you in the right direction. Sometimes a false reading from a sensor can cause running issues. would also be worth having the fuel pump tested by a specialist before even consider replacing it. Won't cost you alot of cash from a good independent specialist. But it will rule out any problem with the pump supplying the fuel pressure to the rail. Best of luck
when i get a problem with me car that wee song from bob the builder comes to mind stick with it mate you will get there in the end always remember the simple checks first cracked and split hoses and cables ect
My money would be strait for the HP pump Martin. If it's not that initially gone more often than not it's never far behind the lift pump anyway. Ideally change both (I know not really economical way really but only way sometimes) That's my experience from when it's happened on 2 Astra vans I have had anyway unfortunately got the age and state with the second one where it was not economical to repair even with used items as swarf had compromised the entire system from the lift pump breaking down
Defo the next cheapest option Martin! But would it not do it all the time not just as warms up I would be thinking. I look forward to the next vid update in any case!
I fixed a misfire on an Alfa 156 using a odb2 bluetooth diag scanner linked to a tablet. I can't remember the s/w on the tablet tbh. I am no mechanic (hate working on cars) but I'm computer savvy and have an computer engineering background. I had a bad experience with Vauxhall where they ran the diags and replaced a part but it didn't fix the problem. So they said we need to replace another component called by the diag tool. This is where i told them to erm....do one. They replaced a part which they were going to charge me for but they hadn't fixed the problem so they wanted to replace another component that might might or not fix the problem. In my opinion this cost should not be passed on to the customer. In the end they said they would go half on the cost of replacing the first part. I never paid and they never chased it. I hope this info is useful coz you should not have to pay for a company just throwing parts at an issue in the hope of fixing the problem
martin on a completely different tangent you could have a big vacuum leak at your intake manifold or the gasket which would explain why it hesitates only once its warmed up and would also explain those overfuelling fault codes as the pcm is compensating for the increased air..........try recreating the problem on the runway when the car reaches it max temp you can then look at the engine and see and listen for something amiss and check the laptop results. however the first thing to do in any diagnosing is check and monitor the long and short term fuel trims (or fuel delivery in a diesel case) this is the starting point for any diagnostics especially fuelling problems.............then you will have the proper direction to go to solve the problem, once again good luck with it........and keep videoing the laptop so I can see the results your getting cheers willie
I will do but the fault codes are pointing to a fueling problem possible caused by a connection issue or the crank position sensor so i'll be checking these first. I've only started learning about the fuel trims from shrodingers box channel, he seems switched on.
good to see you going for auto diagnostic mate i have a similar divice for what they cos they are good little bits of kit i diagnosed a dead catalitic converter with one with the use of you tube great video mate was expecting to see you throwing more parts at it as i said in a previous comment it does it when it warms up and as it says a possible electrical fault it falls in line with why i said get a auto electrician because as it warms up it contracts so causes an open in the wire i honestly think it's a corroded or broken wire possibly to one of the injectors glad you didnt just chuck parts at it am following this to see if my thoughts are correct .
Check the crank sensor, then Might sound simple but locate and tap with a hammer the lift pump see if it lasts any longer. If not it'll be the injection pump, for a new genuine one your looking at a big bill unfortunately. I have worked on many transits and mondeos and therefore scrapper many for the extreme price of the injection pump which is a common problem. I know on the transits new pumps can be £200-400. Let's hope it's the crank sensor!
I don't think it's the pump, the codes point to the crank position sensor and a supply voltage problem to the pump. I think Jake. I'll know more tomorrow. Cheers Martin
Could be an injector fault Martin, black, smoke? over fueling possibly. As your handy with making stuff, you could make a fuel leak off tester and check them, while making a video on how you made the leak off tool .
Hi Martin great video had problem with my 02 tddi Mondeo sometime felt like miss fire but only after it had been running for a while . I had read on some furums and people were saying that when the lift pump is playing up the main pump on the engine will give a fault code also the lift pumps seem to give up around 160000 miles I didn't change my lift pump then one day I was driving I hit a pot hole the car then spluterd missfired all up the road.when I stopped the car would idle till I went to pull off then died . the next day I got a new lift pump the fuel filter was empty put new pump on turned ignition on 2 or 3 times car started never had to fill the filter the lift pump did it when the old lift pump was on and changed the filter I had to fill it with fuel the old pump wouldn't do it I think the lift pump can still work but starts to lose pressure.
Not a guess and I know this is a diesel not a petrol but when I had a problem with rough running once on a Citroen I changed the Coolant Temperature Sensor (cheap part) was less than £20 and fixed the running problems when it got hot because it ran well when cold but warmed up was a nightmare. Not a mechanic just a diy'er lol
hi , just to let you know about the maxi scan code reader , i have one and found same problem link error, apparently it only works on diesel engines from 2005 onwards but they never tell you ,
#retrorestore I BEG YOU PLEASE SHOW US HOW TO REMOVE CLIMATRONIC CONTROL PANEL - I HAVE TO REPLACE OLD BULBS, AND THE SAME THING WITH A CENTRAL CLOCK -PLEASE !
I'd say crankshaft sensor Martin. Fords error codes aren't the easiest to understand and some codes can be misleading. You could get 2 separate codes and they both point to one fault but they look as if they're pointing to 2 faults. Sod's law but I have a f-super 2 reader I don't use anymore "sold my mondeo so not in use" lol and you could've had it mate for free. There are other ford programmes you can download other than fordscan. And they give slightly different info. And free lol. Good luck Martin keep plugging away "excuse the pun" lol
Immediately after the traffic accident of my Mondeo mk3 2.0 TDDI, when I turn on the engine it can only work for about 30 seconds. Diagnostic check shows a key error. The key was not damaged or I was dropped. A friend claims that one of the connectors on the control electronics of the locks in the event of an accident has been disconnected. There are no major damage on the vehicle except damaged wires in the front light group on the left. Can you give me some explanation and instructions on how to solve the problem because there are expensive key repair and car locks here in Sarajevo?
Hi I have a problem with mondeo mk3 1,8 petrol 125hp. His loosing power when you wanna speed up. Power is going so fast down that car almost stop. To accelerate it's also problem I must very slowly press acceleration pedal and I'm hardly have 80km/h. I will add that it's worse when it's geting engine normal temperature working. There is no code problems, no check engine. Please can you help me what I should check to solve this problem. Best regards Lukas
Hi Martin your videos are great ive learned alot from them. have you ever tried to remove a water pump from a ford mondeo mk 3 duratec i tried and failed some say use a crow bar to lever it out any ideas please regards dave
Hi Martin did you use a Crow Bar to get it out? Am a bit aprihensive doing this this way for fear of damaging the timing chain cover behind it thanks Dave
martin it sayed that the fuilt is with the pump and it did not say anything of it not getting enough fule so is it the pump and if so it going to be a dear thing the replace but is it getting starved off full that we dont know hope it helps and it will be good to fined out
Hi Martin, is your transit engine a TDDI? It might be worth swapping the crankshaft position sensor from it on to the mondeo to see if the cures the problem? Cheers.
Saw very similar symptoms on an x-trail and it was the crank position sensor causing the fuelling fault. Cheap item to rule out before you start on the fuel pump!
retrorestore By the way, you had better fix this. If you get rid of your Mondy I'll have to get rid of mine as your vids are the only reason mine is still on the road!
Hi Martin, don't know if anyone else mentioned it already, but you have to go through the errors in the order they were logged. So if P0149 was logged first, it could trigger P0148 etc. Have a look at this:www.obd-codes.com/p0149
I was about to go bo bo's....Then this pops up.... ;O We all knew it was coming..You have to be a heart surgeon /PC geek to work on cars! You have to be smart these days, not to get fiddled to death! Hopefully you'll get a technician in the comments..;)
if you want to gen up on troubleshooting and diagnostics you wont do any better than SCANNER DANNERS you tube channel also have a look at Schrodingers box he,s a very intelligent guy
That was fascinating Martin. Like you, most of my car mechanics was done in days before such things existed. Let's hope there are Ford mechanics amongst your 11,000 subscribers!
Haha, I hope so Jon although i'm happy finding these fault codes on the drive around.
Cheers
Martin
Bought the same f super for my transit mk6 tddi, wouldn't connect so remembered this video, all sorted👍👍👍👍 cheers mart.
Gulp... this is better than the latest Star Wars movie... keep them coming Martin.. :)
great video Martin and thats a handy tool to have i had one for my toyota celica and its a great help when identifying any problems like you say its better than changing out parts to fix a problem. im sure you'll get it sorted in no time. i look forward to the next video and as always i enjoyed it very much and its a thumbs up from me
Thanks Dave, Glad you are enjoying the vids bud.
Cheers
Martin
Thanks Martin,,I tried straight to my lift pump and it seems to have cured it ,,,love your knowledge, thanks for vids on mondy ,big love
patience , you got more than me I'd gone insane by now I'd rather have the Capri would be so much easier to diagnose lol . 😉 I think its all a big con what's the point of plugging in a laptop that says it maybe this maybe that just tell me what it is ! I truely believe it doesn't tell you exactly as local ford dealer can make loads of money saying it could be 4 things 800 quid later for the average Joe . Hope its solved soon. mate . see you on the next one 👍👍👍👍👍
I agree Paul but it's the way it is now I'm afraid so i'll have to learn. I'd rather do it than pass it over to a garage who are quite happy spending your money changing parts till they locate the problem.
More suspense than who killed JR! Keep going mate, I NEED to know what it is.Fantastic blog keep it up.
Martin, This is the huge down side to modern cars and the car companies know you will have to go to there outlets to find the problem. It seems to me the amount of sensors there in cars now days is for there benifit not the owners. Cheers David
I agree Dave, Most of the engine management sensors are because of emission reg's but in my mind, it's overkill and it's too much technology for simple mechanical principles. Also, it's not the engines that go wrong, it's the sensors.Mad wor we live in now.
always good stuff from you mate...heres my tuppence worth....l had stuttering at motorway speeds....long story short,,stopped using supermarket diesel,,,,started with the premium diesel shell or bp....after 50 miles problem gone....mpg went up..so no real diffrence in price....should be first port of call cheers,,,keep up the good work
hi mate I am a UK mechanic I can tell u it's ur crank sensor mate I have done loads on these mondeos and once u have done that if will run like a dream good luck and keep up the good work love ur vids
Thanks Andy, that's my first port of call.
Cheers
Martin
might be worth just checking the fuel filter housing for air leaks mate as i said on facebook the one way valves on there sometimes give up or the o ring can give up (im not sure from looking at the filter video you did if you can change that valve or not), make sure the crankshaft sensor is not covered with oil or dirt.
also i would have just added the temp sensor/sensors to the live data feed on the drive. there will be at least two sensors for the coolant temp, one will be for the gauge on instrument cluster and the other will be one for the ecu itself (im not 100% sure but i think the ecu monitors temp of the head rather than the temp of the coolant but it did see a few head temp sensors and coolant temp sensor on the live data)
Sometimes we have to go that bit further to find out what the problem is by plugging it into a computer but at least you did try and solve the problem though. My mechanic had to a live data test since i had an ABS fault.
It's made a difference knowing what the data fault codes have been recorded.
Great video Martin, i did look up some of those codes and it seems to be,Reduced fuelling is one of the management strategies for error conditions in tddi . A common fault is poor contacts on the multiplug for the fuel pump to loom connector. Yellow release iirc.
Worth removing and re seating a couple of times , checking the wiring for damage.
Cheers, Jeff.
That's the relay I was looking for at the breakers yard Jeff under the battery.
Cheers
Martin
Martin, they are saying this is the actual connection on the fuel pump under the drivers side rear of the car.
Old trouble shooting was so much easier. This is the problem with the newer cars, garage mechanics want to change it out one at a time till the fault goes away. This can cost a fortune. Like I was saying before, your car is acting like my Taurus. Ford knew what the problem was as they see the problems for each car and have built in knowledge. My Cam Timing Sensor looks like a small distributor with the sensor on top and 2 wires that attached to it. The bearing wears out and it wobbles causing the error. Didn't do it all the time though, I could drive a week with out a problem. This is why it was so frustrating. You can try spraying injector cleaner on the MAF too. Might be the crank sensor, it is the same thing as my Cam Sensor. Good luck Martin.
I do like a bit of trouble shooting but this is all new to me so i'm on a learning curve Bri and you all are along for the ride lol.
Cheers
Martin
Martin...next port of call then...crank sensor!!!
I hope its not the main fuel pump!!!!
Even with the diagnostic bumph....still guesswork to a degree....
Great vid.
thanks mate you answered my questions about that f-super all the best
crank sensor is one of the key sensors that determine when to inject fuel based on.crank position/rotation and where the engine is in its cycle, from that info it can determine when to inject fuel, if the signal is faulty this will cause triggering and fueling errors. try logging.the signal from the crank sensor (cps) during a run it will be obvious if there is a problem (signal amplitude etc)
I'll be checking the crank sensor in the next vid.
Cheers
Martin
Retro Madness That is just what I was thinking
Nice video！
good video i ve had this same problem in my Mellenium Falcon but only when i engage light speed mode and only on the dark side of the universe cheers Hans Solo
Another great video. In regards to the 14.7 Air fuel ratio the ECU will only target that ratio on light throttle positions. 14.7 gives best economy. When you push the throttle past a certain point the ECU will ignore the O2 sensor readings and run in open loop where it only looks up at the fuel maps on the ecu and injects for maximum power, a richer mixture will be used for Max power. Modern cars now use wideband sensors that are able to target very specific AFR's. Amazing stuff. I have an aftermarket ecu that will effective map itself in terms of fuel. All you have to do is chose the ignition timing. Your problem seems to be under heavy throttle which suggest to me its one of the sensors that the ecu looks at when it runs in open loop mode ie MAF,MAP and crank sensor. I hope you get it sorted soon as these sort of issues can go on and on and you end up changing things you don't need to. Even the diagnostic tools can lead you down the wrong path sometimes.
Yes, I agree, you have to read between the lined in fault diagnosis sometimes.
I would say it's the crank sensor 100% also don't take this the wrong way but there are 2000 - 2003 mondeos with around 110k miles going for like 300-600 quid and I've seen you put a lot of money / effort into this car maybe treat yourself to a older more mechanic friendly car :) I've watched your page since your son's gilera runner rebuild as I rebuild scooters mainly Italian piaggios gilera ect and was suprised to see you actually did a perfect job on the runner engine rebuild credit were credits due you've got persistence I would have scrapped it back when it was in pieces with the sub frame off it lol but props to you mukka from one tinkerer to another adios omego
Haha, you've watched a lot of my vids then lol. The Mondeo has taught me a lot and the video also help others so I don't mind doing these jobs.
Cheers
Martin
crank position sensor is common.lots of stuff on line. check the colour. if i remember grey is good as the black ones fail. i used forscan to diagnose the current injector fault on mine. best tenner i ever spent. good luck
Thanks Miles, Yes, Forscan seems a good bit of kit.
the crankshaft sensor reads the flywheel,youre problem is shortages of fuel when accelerating,check both fuel pumps and their wiring
Throwing up a few codes Martin. But seem to be pointing all to fuel . Hope you can nail the problem.
Cheers Pete.
Yes, I hope so Pete. At least I have something to go on now.
Hi there great video did you ever get to the bottom of this problem
Yes bud, check out the remaining parts to this series.
I would look at the lift pump if its pointing to a fuel problem. You want to look at FRP ( Fuel Rail Pressure) in forscan to see if it drops in live data.I don't know if the CYL 1234 will work in forscan, but that would also give you an idea if its an injector, it gives you a cylinder balance.
Ok Thanks for that.
Cheers
Martin
martin, with a 1564 code and fuel metering error code you are likely to have a problem with the solenoid at the fuel pump and or the wiring that comes from it and goes over the top of the starter motor the cables rub on the top of the starter motor and get frayed this is a common problem with transits which also have 2.0 lt tddi engines. or god forbid your fuel pump is on its last legs..............check them out and good luck my friend
cheers willie
Thanks Willie, I'll be checking the Crank position sensor and the pump supply cables in the next vid so let's hope this is the problem as the fault codes suggest.
Cheers
Martin
great vid mate. Just been looking at wiring diagram for you car that module supply relay control under battery looks like it powers a fuel pump control module on top of high pressure pump will forward you diagram on
Cheers
Jamie
First off, I would check battery voltage and alternator output is in spec since any errors with basics won't always throw up a fault code or bring on the MIL. Then ensure all major earthing points are secure and free from corrosion since corroded earths can cause all sorts of weird symptoms. Check injector pump wiring loom and connector for signs of chafing, loose, corroded or damaged connector pins or oil or diesel contamination that's creeping under the loom insulation. Low voltage might be down to supply or signal wire that's going open circuit or intermittent high resistance due to heat, vibration etc. I'd also check low pressure lift pump power supply loom for damage etc.
Good points bud, I'll be checking connections in due course.
Cheers
martin
Check live data of the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail with the crank sensor & if possible the metering sensor on the pump. If you can view all of mentioned, Then it can lead to pointing you in the right direction. Sometimes a false reading from a sensor can cause running issues. would also be worth having the fuel pump tested by a specialist before even consider replacing it. Won't cost you alot of cash from a good independent specialist. But it will rule out any problem with the pump supplying the fuel pressure to the rail. Best of luck
Thanks Ashley for the info.
Cheers
Martin
Good luck mate. I can't offer any advice apart from wack everything with a hammer :-)
Sounds like a plan Greg lol
Hi Martin mybe try the sensor or the lift pump or still map or air flow sensor you will get there I'm sure good luck great vid.
Thanks Terry.
Cheers
Martin
when i get a problem with me car that wee song from bob the builder comes to mind stick with it mate you will get there in the end always remember the simple checks first cracked and split hoses and cables ect
My money would be strait for the HP pump Martin. If it's not that initially gone more often than not it's never far behind the lift pump anyway. Ideally change both (I know not really economical way really but only way sometimes) That's my experience from when it's happened on 2 Astra vans I have had anyway unfortunately got the age and state with the second one where it was not economical to repair even with used items as swarf had compromised the entire system from the lift pump breaking down
I'll be checking the Crankshaft sensor first.
Cheers
Martin
Defo the next cheapest option Martin! But would it not do it all the time not just as warms up I would be thinking. I look forward to the next vid update in any case!
i like these vids, keep up the good work :)
Martin mate, your recent motoring woes with transit and mondeo can be easily fixed really easily by getting a hiace and an avensis ;-)
Haha, Great logic, I should do a vid on that lol
I fixed a misfire on an Alfa 156 using a odb2 bluetooth diag scanner linked to a tablet. I can't remember the s/w on the tablet tbh. I am no mechanic (hate working on cars) but I'm computer savvy and have an computer engineering background. I had a bad experience with Vauxhall where they ran the diags and replaced a part but it didn't fix the problem. So they said we need to replace another component called by the diag tool. This is where i told them to erm....do one. They replaced a part which they were going to charge me for but they hadn't fixed the problem so they wanted to replace another component that might might or not fix the problem. In my opinion this cost should not be passed on to the customer. In the end they said they would go half on the cost of replacing the first part. I never paid and they never chased it. I hope this info is useful coz you should not have to pay for a company just throwing parts at an issue in the hope of fixing the problem
I think a lot of Garages do this Steve as i've heard many similar stories. That's why I want to do it myself.
I would do the sensor first martin , That pump is costly ! Thumbs up man ..
martin on a completely different tangent you could have a big vacuum leak at your intake manifold or the gasket which would explain why it hesitates only once its warmed up and would also explain those overfuelling fault codes as the pcm is compensating for the increased air..........try recreating the problem on the runway when the car reaches it max temp you can then look at the engine and see and listen for something amiss and check the laptop results. however the first thing to do in any diagnosing is check and monitor the long and short term fuel trims (or fuel delivery in a diesel case) this is the starting point for any diagnostics especially fuelling problems.............then you will have the proper direction to go to solve the problem, once again good luck with it........and keep videoing the laptop so I can see the results your getting
cheers willie
I will do but the fault codes are pointing to a fueling problem possible caused by a connection issue or the crank position sensor so i'll be checking these first. I've only started learning about the fuel trims from shrodingers box channel, he seems switched on.
Hi Martin I would check your crank sensor as it might be Breaking up check the plug on the crank sensor for corrosion hope that helps
Thanks bud, I will be checking the sensor.
Cheers
Martin
good to see you going for auto diagnostic mate i have a similar divice for what they cos they are good little bits of kit i diagnosed a dead catalitic converter with one with the use of you tube great video mate was expecting to see you throwing more parts at it as i said in a previous comment it does it when it warms up and as it says a possible electrical fault it falls in line with why i said get a auto electrician because as it warms up it contracts so causes an open in the wire i honestly think it's a corroded or broken wire possibly to one of the injectors glad you didnt just chuck parts at it am following this to see if my thoughts are correct .
I'll know more tomorrow Billy, I'm thinking along the lines of a supply fault to the fuel pump or the crank position sensor.
Cheers
Martin
would this bit of kit work on a focus mk2 2005 mate? i am looking for some ford diagnostics equiptment
Yes it would. It's a very handy bit of kit.
Cheers
Martin
loving the videos m8 keep up the good work. :)
Check the crank sensor, then Might sound simple but locate and tap with a hammer the lift pump see if it lasts any longer. If not it'll be the injection pump, for a new genuine one your looking at a big bill unfortunately. I have worked on many transits and mondeos and therefore scrapper many for the extreme price of the injection pump which is a common problem. I know on the transits new pumps can be £200-400. Let's hope it's the crank sensor!
I don't think it's the pump, the codes point to the crank position sensor and a supply voltage problem to the pump. I think Jake. I'll know more tomorrow.
Cheers
Martin
Lovin these videos bud, keep it up. Top marks for keeping the balls ups in to! Now I know I'm not the only one ;-)
Gotta Keep it real Paul haha. More to come lol.
Cheers
Martin
thanks mate you are a great help
hope you get it sorted Martin sounds like a right ball ache...
Haha, I feel more confident with the scan tool now it's picked up some fault codes Steve.
fantastic video very interesting
Thanks Shane.
Could be an injector fault Martin, black, smoke? over fueling possibly. As your handy with making stuff, you could make a fuel leak off tester and check them, while making a video on how you made the leak off tool .
Good point Ryan, I think the lift pump is next on my list before anything else as in part 4 of this saga.
retrorestore you have put petrol in it you doughnut lol 😂
No bud lol
Hi Martin great video had problem with my 02 tddi Mondeo sometime felt like miss fire but only after it had been running for a while . I had read on some furums and people were saying that when the lift pump is playing up the main pump on the engine will give a fault code also the lift pumps seem to give up around 160000 miles I didn't change my lift pump then one day I was driving I hit a pot hole the car then spluterd missfired all up the road.when I stopped the car would idle till I went to pull off then died . the next day I got a new lift pump the fuel filter was empty put new pump on turned ignition on 2 or 3 times car started never had to fill the filter the lift pump did it when the old lift pump was on and changed the filter I had to fill it with fuel the old pump wouldn't do it I think the lift pump can still work but starts to lose pressure.
Yes, I did suspect the lift pump but the fault codes have given me something to check now Sean.
Cheers
Martin
Not a guess and I know this is a diesel not a petrol but when I had a problem with rough running once on a Citroen I changed the Coolant Temperature Sensor (cheap part) was less than £20 and fixed the running problems when it got hot because it ran well when cold but warmed up was a nightmare. Not a mechanic just a diy'er lol
That's what I am as well but it's a learning curve.
Cheers
Martin
Have sent a link for you to have a read . Its all about a fuel pump issue, might be of some help.
Thanks bud, I read it.
Test the easiest one first. Your Hayes should have the resistance values you should be looking for.
I'd go with the pump first.
hi , just to let you know about the maxi scan code reader , i have one and found same problem link error, apparently it only works on diesel engines from 2005 onwards but they never tell you ,
Martin apparently diesels didn't have to conform to obd2 until 2004. I've tried with other pretty 04 diesels.
#retrorestore I BEG YOU PLEASE SHOW US HOW TO REMOVE CLIMATRONIC CONTROL PANEL - I HAVE TO REPLACE OLD BULBS, AND THE SAME THING WITH A CENTRAL CLOCK -PLEASE !
I'd say crankshaft sensor Martin. Fords error codes aren't the easiest to understand and some codes can be misleading. You could get 2 separate codes and they both point to one fault but they look as if they're pointing to 2 faults. Sod's law but I have a f-super 2 reader I don't use anymore "sold my mondeo so not in use" lol and you could've had it mate for free. There are other ford programmes you can download other than fordscan. And they give slightly different info. And free lol. Good luck Martin keep plugging away "excuse the pun" lol
Haha, nice one. I'll get there i'm sure.
Cheers
Martin
hi where do you get your diesel from. don't use tesco fuel it's can make your car run bad
Immediately after the traffic accident of my Mondeo mk3 2.0 TDDI, when I turn on the engine it can only work for about 30 seconds. Diagnostic check shows a key error. The key was not damaged or I was dropped. A friend claims that one of the connectors on the control electronics of the locks in the event of an accident has been disconnected. There are no major damage on the vehicle except damaged wires in the front light group on the left. Can you give me some explanation and instructions on how to solve the problem because there are expensive key repair and car locks here in Sarajevo?
Can't say bud, sorry.
Hi I have a problem with mondeo mk3 1,8 petrol 125hp. His loosing power when you wanna speed up. Power is going so fast down that car almost stop. To accelerate it's also problem I must very slowly press acceleration pedal and I'm hardly have 80km/h. I will add that it's worse when it's geting engine normal temperature working. There is no code problems, no check engine. Please can you help me what I should check to solve this problem. Best regards Lukas
Herd to say without a diagnostic test bud.
Hi Martin your videos are great ive learned alot from them. have you ever tried to remove a water pump from a ford mondeo mk 3 duratec i tried and failed some say use a crow bar to lever it out any ideas please regards dave
Yes I have Dave
Hi Martin did you use a Crow Bar to get it out? Am a bit aprihensive doing this this way for fear of damaging the timing chain cover behind it thanks Dave
@@davidjones-sx5sy I can't remember Dave, sorry.
martin it sayed that the fuilt is with the pump and it did not say anything of it not getting enough fule so is it the pump and if so it going to be a dear thing the replace but is it getting starved off full that we dont know hope it helps and it will be good to fined out
I'll be checking the crank sensor first Chris as this would impact the fuel delivery.
yes i agree
Hi Martin, is your transit engine a TDDI? It might be worth swapping the crankshaft position sensor from it on to the mondeo to see if the cures the problem? Cheers.
it's a TDCI.
Saw very similar symptoms on an x-trail and it was the crank position sensor causing the fuelling fault. Cheap item to rule out before you start on the fuel pump!
I agree, I'll be checking this in the next vid.
Cheers
Martin
retrorestore By the way, you had better fix this. If you get rid of your Mondy I'll have to get rid of mine as your vids are the only reason mine is still on the road!
Haha nice one.
Hi, i have a Mondeo Mark III 2006, v6 2.5l. and i need to know how can i replace the pcv valv, do you have a video? i'm from Mexico
Sorry, not done a vid on that. Sold the Mondeo now.
NP, Thanks
Second comment keep up the good work 👌🏻
cheers bud
Hi Martin, don't know if anyone else mentioned it already, but you have to go through the errors in the order they were logged. So if P0149 was logged first, it could trigger P0148 etc. Have a look at this:www.obd-codes.com/p0149
Yes, Thanks Robert. I did realize this so will be checking the codes in that order. That's an interesting website , thanks for the link
its de
crank sensor
Yes, it could be.
Ur timing chain is slack! Knocking the pump timing out and the crank and cam sensors out!
Not sure about that Bri as it only happens when the car warms up a little and if it was a slack chain, it would be there all the time.
heres another common fault on a 2.0 lt tddi, No 9 relay (fuel pump) when they get hot they,re fucked
Yes Willie, I'll be checking the supply to the fuel pump as well.
Faust comment!
I was about to go bo bo's....Then this pops up.... ;O
We all knew it was coming..You have to be a heart surgeon /PC geek to work on cars! You have to be smart these days, not to get fiddled to death!
Hopefully you'll get a technician in the comments..;)
I'm getting there with more info. I'll be checking the crank position sensor and the connections to the fuel pump for starters.
Lovely jubbly.innit
if you want to gen up on troubleshooting and diagnostics you wont do any better than SCANNER DANNERS you tube channel also have a look at Schrodingers box he,s a very intelligent guy
Already subbed to Schrodingers Box.