American Green Lights 100W Induction Streetlight Overview
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- This is my American Green Lights Induction Streetlight. This fixture uses a very unique lighting technology that was not used for very long in the streetlighting industry called induction. This video should hopefully spread some light on what this is. Enjoy and subscribe for more videos in the future! Also be sure to check out my street light collection and other photos at www.lighting-g....
It look like GE, M-400R2 fixture with a single door unit.
I don’t think they were ever banned, just didn’t catch on due to LED.
HI
is that a cooper ovh with ovz lens over your bed
Hi there polar lights
Hi did you enjoy the video?
Hand me the FLUORESCENT BULB! ..... why did you hand me an induction lamp?
Why are they bad?
I didn’t know to install a shorting cap or photocell in the fixture before using it and I consider myself smart. This is so offensive, a lot of people don’t even know what a photocell is on these induction fixtures because they aren’t M-250s or OV-15s!
It's really important people know this extremely common knowledge so that their fixtures can actually work. If you don't know how to put a photocell or shorting cap on a fixture then you have a lot to learn.
@@polarslightssignals2742 the light wont even work with out a photocell its like dis connecting the power unless it is wired directly to the ballast
there's something similar like this in my country but with an Hps Version
Neat stuff, when I was younger I was always fascinated with the different street lights in our neighborhood. I was always jealous of the neighboring street as it got Mercury Vapor lights. We still had the old incandescent lights. I remember driving in Dayton, Ohio. They had florescent street lights. I still have the mercury vapor lamp and a high pressure sodium light.
Nice fixture with the electrodeless mercury lamp! 👌 these bulbs never fail, the electronic ballasts always fail before the bulb ;)
I know parrot 175's channel. parrot 175 has good videos I knew it before your channel (polar lights and signals).
A little background info for you. I can recall reading an article about the "Q Lamp" in Popular Science in the 80s... I believe that was the original invention of the electrodeless fluorescent lamp. Induction companies in the late 2000s and early 2010s claimed it was "Tesla Technology" and it is in a way since it's "wireless power" but Tesla never invented this device.
1. It was brought to the US in the mid to late 90s. I want to say the first installation was in The Dalles, OR in around 1998 in some post-top acorns. It had fairly limited use through the 2000s because it was only available as Philips QL and Osram Icetron, and they were patent protected, and thus, were around a $300 price adder over HID. When the patents expired, every Chinese company known to mankind came out with their own version and began to market it as "new technology." It was not.
2. Much induction sold in the late 2000s/early 2010s (after the patents expired) was sold as being more efficient than the LED of the time. This was also a lie, as LED of the time was already much more energy efficient. The induction industry adopted language from studies conducted in the late 90s that suggested 5000K white light improved peripheral vision at low light levels. The researcher (Ian Lewin) attempted to quantify the effect of the increase in peripheral vision using something called the S/P Ratio (Scotophic/Photopic Ratio). Again, this dealt with peripheral vision in the original research, but it was portrayed as dealing with "foveal" visiion (i.e. your straight ahead vision). Actually, sodium light was better for foveal vision.
3. Induction lighting salespeople would bring in a flurry of BS about performance, but the real sell was getting the customer to put a couple fixtures up and NOT compare them to LED. When put against degraded HPS, it looked brighter (people usually perceive white light as brighter than amber, even if the performance wasn't as good). So those that didn't try to compare with LED didn't realize how little light came out of induction in comparison. Some manufacturers hat "HID equivalent" ratings... for example, replace 100 HPS with 50W induction. i.e. replace a 9500L light source with a 4000L light source and call it equivalent. Again, it was not better, it was worse.
4. The terminology for the parts are the Generator (not driver or ballast) - it generates radio frequency (RF) to power the discharge vessel (what we call the lamp). The loops around the type of lamp in your fixture (and the part that goes up in the center of the QL-style lamps) is called the power coupler.
5. Heat sinking is critical. These parts get hot, and they degrade the performance. Easy test to see if it's well heat sinked: Plug it in through a kill-a-watt or similar metering device and let it run several hours. After warm up, it should stay up around its rated wattage. If, after a few hours, it begins to lose wattage, then you know it's overheating. If you open the fixture and fan the lamp, it will get brighter and the power draw will go up. That right there is a great indication the fixture is overheating. When they overheat, the reduce output. In my experience, most of these 'newer' induction lamps overheat when used more than a few hours.
6. When you first fire up the lamp, it may overdrive for the first few (up to 20) minutes. Some manufacturers did this to make the lamp warm up more quickly. While plugged in through the meter you can see this happen if you're looking at the right time. You may also notice a very subtle reduction of light when the overdrive shuts off.
7. Generators are electronic devices - the weak point is generally the electrolytic capacitors. As they dry out, the performance begins to suffer, and in time, the entire device fails. I assure you these are capable of failing much sooner than you think!
8 . American Green Technology is an importer. They might have had a warehouse on US soil but I doubt any major assembly work was done there.
9. When Philips introduced QL, they rated it at 80 lm/w with 100,000 hour life; then they revised it to 76 lm/w and 60,000 hours. Most Chinese induction was around 65-75 lm/w and 60,000 hours, but was advertised as 80 lm/w and 100,000 hours. More lies! The reality is, induction was a good replacement for degraded probe-start MH. So if you needed white light with similar efficiency to degraded MH, it was a great choice. I won't even get into how the optics on induction caused even worse performance.
10. Induction is not banned. It sucks, and the market finally realized that and moved on. There is an mercury amalgam inside the discharge vessel to provide the UV light to excite the phosphor.
There are a number of reasons these don't work as well as HID or LED, too many to list. Suffice to say, induction lighting was the lighting industry's "snake oil" from the late 2000s to the early 2010s. With very few exceptions, it was sold on lies. So I, and many other industry professionals do not look at it kindly. As a geek, it's neat to see... but from a professional perspective, it was a disaster and there are several cities that are now clamoring to re-convert their lights to LED (and realizing an LED of half the power will put out more light than the induction it replaces!)
All Flourescent lighting becomes more dim over time as the phosphors wears out.
by the way i love your whole collection of different streetlights
You can run an induction lamp by hooking up a transformer from a microwave with the primary in series with a 175 watt metal halide ballast or a 400 watt metal halide primary or a primary of a transformer with similar amps and the secondary of the microwave transformer connects to two 2000 volt or higher .1 microfarad polypropylene film pulse capacitor in parallel with the secondary of the microwave transformer. make sure that you ground both the ballast and transformer cores with two wires coming from the ground of your plug. connect both capacitors in series and then connect them to the secondary of the microwave transformer with high voltage gto wires. then connect two high voltage gto wires on each side of the capacitor bank connecting to the microwave transformer secondary high voltage wires prepared earlier and one side of each capacitor. connect the ground side of the high voltage secondary of the microwave transformer and one side of one capacitor to one metal L bracket screwed to a acrylic sheet one inch thick or two 1/2 inch thick sheets stacked together on a 6x6 inch square. then screw the other L bracket with the vertical sides of the L brackets facing each other a distance apart with short screws. and connect a bolt on door handle to the vertical holes on each of the L brackets facing the ball or knob of the door handle to the other ball or knob of the other door handle to form a spark gap switch. then disassemble the electronics and base of the induction lamp from the glass bulb and induction lamp coil then connect a high voltage wire to each end of the induction lamp coil. connect one end of the induction lamp coil to the spark gap with the wire coming from the induction lamp to the L bracket of the spark gap. connect the other end of the induction lamp coil to the hot side of the secondary of the microwave transformer and the other side of the capacitor bank. connect the wires to bolts and washers and nuts bolted to acrylic sheet to make terminal blocks then make an acrylic box to fit everything inside it then you can zip tie the loose wires to make it look neat.
We still have an abundant amount of rectangular induction fixtures