Hi Rob, Thanks for taking the time to make this video. It helps demystify, somewhat, the Linn LP12 by showing just how easy it is to do your own work and achieve good results. While I might disagree with your methodology and terms used somewhat, I think overall you've done an excellent job. IMHO, after owning and maintaining an LP12 for 36 years, the Linn is an exceptionally easy table to maintain and keep operating at the highest possible levels. I don't agree that a Linn table jig is required for any phase of a working with the LP12. Having one definitely makes leveling the 'table and suspension easier. It also presents the 'table to the workman in a more accessible way, making all aspects of the job at hand go quicker, easier, and with greater potential visibility. But...there are so many alternative adhoc 'jig'/setups that'll get the job with the same outcome. By the way, in this context, I clearly understood that the tachometer wheel was the same thing as strobe disc. If you don't mind, could you share your observations about the performance of the Mober? The build quality? Useability? Reliability? Best, James
Thank you for your comments James. I bought my LP12 in 1987 in Europe and it has travelled with me around the world. While I am an LP12 lover I am by no means an expert and my goal was to update it so it would run well in the US where I now live and also to be able to play the few 45 RPM discs I have. I looked at what was possible for a reasonable cost and after communicating with Edmund I decided to purchase the Mober kit. I planned out how I would perform the installation by reading as much as I could online but I knew that if anything went wrong my local Linn dealer would be able to help me out. I decided to make the video at the last moment for my son. I am not a natural in front of the camera and as I was documenting the steps as I was going alongI had no desire to reshoot any sequences where I fluffed the dialogue. I did forward the link to Edmund who then asked if he could post it on his social media. I am all for helping out small businesses such as the one Edmund runs so I agreed. I am so surprised it has had as many views as it has and I am happy if people found it useful. Regarding the Mober kit: I am very happy with the build quality and the general functionality. Being a curious person I've taken the cover off the controller and I found a high quality circuit board and PSU all assembled beautifully. The only criticism I have is that you have to wait for the controller to boot up as it doesn't respond to the speed controller until it does. After booting I never seem to be able to get it started with a single button press, so I press a few more times and it starts. Once it is running it is stable and I have had no issues with it. I have not compared my system with any other and my comments at the end of the video are my initial impressions. I have not changed my mind since then
A few pointers that might help for the future. I'd definitely put a cap over the main bearing when working on the deck with the sub-platter removed to prevent dirt ingress and the possibility of accidentally dropping something down it. The first two screws removed in the video are actually the motor azimuth adjustment screws that adjust the belt run position and fine tunes the speed. I'd reassemble in a different order too; fit the motor retention bolts then the two adjustment screws. Each to his own, and you pays your money and takes your choice, but the kit looks a tad "Heath Robinson" to me and certainly doesn't reflect the precision engineering legacy of the Sondek: Wires through the scrapped belt guide (obviously not required so that's why Linn fit one!) and the self-adhesive sensor ring, for instance, none of which inspires confidence. As a UK resident I remember when Valerie Singleton used to make things out of "sticky back plastic" on "Blue Peter" - perhaps this kit's a homage! Interesting and thought provoking video, though, and thanks for the posting, and the main thing is if you're happy with the results fair play to you. Again, personal choice, but before attempting to interfere with the factory specification of the deck I suspect attention to the siting of the existing turntable should have been a priority; LP12's like to be on light, rigid surfaces (such as a small solid coffee able or decoupled wall shelf) rather than on a massy table (along with heavy amplifiers etc) as shown. Hope this helps and thanks once again.
I worked with the Maxton development kit for DC motors for use in turntable drive systems several years ago and was not overly impressed and also had the second Mober in the UK for evaluation i have worked professionally as an LP-12 Specialist for 25 years if you listen to the mober motor with a stethoscope through the linn top plate it generates far more noise than the good old 24 pole ac motor and what irritated me about the mober psu is as mentioned it often fails to respond to the speed switch this can be quite annoying and to be fair i think Linn's own Radical that also uses a higher quality maxton motor than the mober is unacceptably noisy as well even after they have potted it.. the original 24p motor when properly driven with a pure sine-wave and balanced phase is incredibly hard to beat especially when post startup ramp-down voltage is applied at 65v as with the later lingo it is silent and far more cost effective ...
@@chrissyman77 the lingo mk 4 uses a new 24v motor certainly a step in the right direction but you wont but a Lingo 4 + new motor for £395 that is the cost of the new vinyl passion power supply and it is easily as good as a Lingo 3 so quite a bargain as was the idea in the design a high performance 2 speed power supply at an affordable price with generous part exchange against Hercules Valhalla & magic power supplies making it even more affordable
One buy the product does not mean that you worked with the development kit, I bought the Linn LP12 does not mean I worked with Linn LP12 development kit, anyway, a salesman say whatever they want to talk. 24 poles AC motor is simply the easiest to get 33.3 rpm by feeding 50Hz and AC voltage to the AC motor, it is cheap and good for commercial product.
Rob, looks cool as an upgrade, my setup in 1981 was lp12 with a syrinx pu2 and asak, linn kans and niam 42/110, sadly long gone and missed greatly, btw,, do i see kans in the other room??? lp12 always have measured upgrades,
What relevance is it to change the inner-platter its got nothing to do with the power supply and motor. The same as the Phoenix engineering and Roadrunner I don't know which is better, how much did that cost motor power supply. Do you want to get rid of the original motor and power supply board I'll take it off your hands
Really don't understand the thinking behind adding a ball to the bearing? An additional boundary surface, the Linn single point bearing is absolutely fine as it is.
@@sugarkonny6119 Some put two large magnet and claims it ease 50% of the pressure of the platter on the bearing house, not sure for that. The ball bearing contact surface to the bearing is zero, according to Physic, contact surface is zero and pressure is zero. Without adding two large magnet and do better , more importantly, the sound improvement.
Points to take on board with this video. The gentleman had know idea what to call a strobe disc, no Linn jig to dismantle the turntable, or reset it. Dismantling and reassembling an LP12 in this man ner is not recommended, especially by Linn. Would you chance doing it to your expensive turntable?
I think what you call a strobe disc is a tachometer disc. Strobe discs use artificial lighting modulated with the mains frequency or a secondary source to display the interference patterns so that when the markings appear to be stationary the correct rotational speed of the platter has been achieved. The disc the gentleman is installing is a clocking source and the light merely reflects of the light portions of the disc to provide an accurate feedback for the motor controller so tachometer would be the more correct term. As for the "Linn jig". A great way to separate you from your money. He was careful and unhurried and those attributes are invaluable when working with almost anything. Hard to justify the cost of a jig when a couple of carefully placed pieces of 4x2 can do the job. Not to sure of the claimed sonic improvements though!
YesI would do it and have successfully many times, just like this man successfully has done it . Judging a man that succeeds just means your a dumbass and a fool you idiot.
Hello~ Rob I’m very interested in the mober psu. You’ve had it for some time now. Do you recommend it? I’m currently running a Valhalla PSU and I’ve been contemplating a new PSU you for quite some time now.
I do recommend it. To my ears it is an improvement for the 32 year old LP12 I have. The comment about the failure to respond to the speed switch is true and I have not heard the Radikal PSU and motor but I am happy with the results.
@@echanemail7 Snake oil if it's changed the sound of the deck like he said then there's a problem ,, more open,, please I don't think so even the vallhala is still in there . What was wrong with the speed before? Snake oil.
You go into a Linn dealer and ask to buy an LP12 and he says "that will be £30,000 please", and the buyer asks "£30,000 for an LP12"?, and the dealer says "yes its "£2500 to buy it as stock, but you'll have to factor in all the upgrades that will make it better during your ownership".
@@RightWing1 the choice is your to make. At least you don't have to sell the deck for another deck, if you want better sound. Your exaggerated comments are laughable.
Hi Rob,
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. It helps demystify, somewhat, the Linn LP12 by showing just how easy it is to do your own work and achieve good results. While I might disagree with your methodology and terms used somewhat, I think overall you've done an excellent job.
IMHO, after owning and maintaining an LP12 for 36 years, the Linn is an exceptionally easy table to maintain and keep operating at the highest possible levels. I don't agree that a Linn table jig is required for any phase of a working with the LP12. Having one definitely makes leveling the 'table and suspension easier. It also presents the 'table to the workman in a more accessible way, making all aspects of the job at hand go quicker, easier, and with greater potential visibility. But...there are so many alternative adhoc 'jig'/setups that'll get the job with the same outcome.
By the way, in this context, I clearly understood that the tachometer wheel was the same thing as strobe disc.
If you don't mind, could you share your observations about the performance of the Mober? The build quality? Useability? Reliability?
Best,
James
Thank you for your comments James.
I bought my LP12 in 1987 in Europe and it has travelled with me around the world. While I am an LP12 lover I am by no means an expert and my goal was to update it so it would run well in the US where I now live and also to be able to play the few 45 RPM discs I have. I looked at what was possible for a reasonable cost and after communicating with Edmund I decided to purchase the Mober kit. I planned out how I would perform the installation by reading as much as I could online but I knew that if anything went wrong my local Linn dealer would be able to help me out.
I decided to make the video at the last moment for my son. I am not a natural in front of the camera and as I was documenting the steps as I was going alongI had no desire to reshoot any sequences where I fluffed the dialogue. I did forward the link to Edmund who then asked if he could post it on his social media. I am all for helping out small businesses such as the one Edmund runs so I agreed. I am so surprised it has had as many views as it has and I am happy if people found it useful.
Regarding the Mober kit: I am very happy with the build quality and the general functionality. Being a curious person I've taken the cover off the controller and I found a high quality circuit board and PSU all assembled beautifully. The only criticism I have is that you have to wait for the controller to boot up as it doesn't respond to the speed controller until it does. After booting I never seem to be able to get it started with a single button press, so I press a few more times and it starts. Once it is running it is stable and I have had no issues with it.
I have not compared my system with any other and my comments at the end of the video are my initial impressions. I have not changed my mind since then
Fitting mine over the next few days!
A few pointers that might help for the future. I'd definitely put a cap over the main bearing when working on the deck with the sub-platter removed to prevent dirt ingress and the possibility of accidentally dropping something down it. The first two screws removed in the video are actually the motor azimuth adjustment screws that adjust the belt run position and fine tunes the speed. I'd reassemble in a different order too; fit the motor retention bolts then the two adjustment screws. Each to his own, and you pays your money and takes your choice, but the kit looks a tad "Heath Robinson" to me and certainly doesn't reflect the precision engineering legacy of the Sondek: Wires through the scrapped belt guide (obviously not required so that's why Linn fit one!) and the self-adhesive sensor ring, for instance, none of which inspires confidence. As a UK resident I remember when Valerie Singleton used to make things out of "sticky back plastic" on "Blue Peter" - perhaps this kit's a homage! Interesting and thought provoking video, though, and thanks for the posting, and the main thing is if you're happy with the results fair play to you. Again, personal choice, but before attempting to interfere with the factory specification of the deck I suspect attention to the siting of the existing turntable should have been a priority; LP12's like to be on light, rigid surfaces (such as a small solid coffee able or decoupled wall shelf) rather than on a massy table (along with heavy amplifiers etc) as shown. Hope this helps and thanks once again.
I worked with the Maxton development kit for DC motors for use in turntable drive systems several years ago and was not overly impressed and also had the second Mober in the UK for evaluation i have worked professionally as an LP-12 Specialist for 25 years if you listen to the mober motor with a stethoscope through the linn top plate it generates far more noise than the good old 24 pole ac motor and what irritated me about the mober psu is as mentioned it often fails to respond to the speed switch this can be quite annoying and to be fair i think Linn's own Radical that also uses a higher quality maxton motor than the mober is unacceptably noisy as well even after they have potted it.. the original 24p motor when properly driven with a pure sine-wave and balanced phase is incredibly hard to beat especially when post startup ramp-down voltage is applied at 65v as with the later lingo it is silent and far more cost effective ...
I agree, if I still had my LP12, (sold 20 years ago) I would stick with the AC motor and get the lingo mk4.
@@chrissyman77 the lingo mk 4 uses a new 24v motor certainly a step in the right direction but you wont but a Lingo 4 + new motor for £395 that is the cost of the new vinyl passion power supply and it is easily as good as a Lingo 3 so quite a bargain as was the idea in the design a high performance 2 speed power supply at an affordable price with generous part exchange against Hercules Valhalla & magic power supplies making it even more affordable
@@vinylpassion8782 My problem with your ttpsu will not be shipped to germany. This for me is a no go for your ttpsu!
So the best bet is to stay with my Greenstreet Geddon + original Linn AC motor?
One buy the product does not mean that you worked with the development kit, I bought the Linn LP12 does not mean I worked with Linn LP12 development kit, anyway, a salesman say whatever they want to talk. 24 poles AC motor is simply the easiest to get 33.3 rpm by feeding 50Hz and AC voltage to the AC motor, it is cheap and good for commercial product.
Rob, looks cool as an upgrade, my setup in 1981 was lp12 with a syrinx pu2 and asak, linn kans and niam 42/110, sadly long gone and missed greatly, btw,, do i see kans in the other room??? lp12 always have measured upgrades,
Hi Jamie, Yes you do see a pair of Kans. I drive them with a Naim Nait2 amplifier.
What relevance is it to change the inner-platter its got nothing to do with the power supply and motor.
The same as the Phoenix engineering and Roadrunner I don't know which is better, how much did that cost motor power supply.
Do you want to get rid of the original motor and power supply board I'll take it off your hands
Really don't understand the thinking behind adding a ball to the bearing? An additional boundary surface, the Linn single point bearing is absolutely fine as it is.
Remeber, the last moron isn´t born yet,...
@@sugarkonny6119 Some put two large magnet and claims it ease 50% of the pressure of the platter on the bearing house, not sure for that. The ball bearing contact surface to the bearing is zero, according to Physic, contact surface is zero and pressure is zero. Without adding two large magnet and do better , more importantly, the sound improvement.
Points to take on board with this video. The gentleman had know idea what to call a strobe disc, no Linn jig to dismantle the turntable, or reset it. Dismantling and reassembling an LP12 in this man
ner is not recommended, especially by Linn. Would you chance doing it to your expensive turntable?
I think what you call a strobe disc is a tachometer disc. Strobe discs use artificial lighting modulated with the mains frequency or a secondary source to display the interference patterns so that when the markings appear to be stationary the correct rotational speed of the platter has been achieved. The disc the gentleman is installing is a clocking source and the light merely reflects of the light portions of the disc to provide an accurate feedback for the motor controller so tachometer would be the more correct term. As for the "Linn jig". A great way to separate you from your money. He was careful and unhurried and those attributes are invaluable when working with almost anything. Hard to justify the cost of a jig when a couple of carefully placed pieces of 4x2 can do the job. Not to sure of the claimed sonic improvements though!
YesI would do it and have successfully many times, just like this man successfully has done it . Judging a man that succeeds just means your a dumbass and a fool you idiot.
jig my arse one born every minute
@@blobbynobby4619 and your it.
Hello~ Rob I’m very interested in the mober psu. You’ve had it for some time now. Do you recommend it? I’m currently running a Valhalla PSU and I’ve been contemplating a new PSU you for quite some time now.
I do recommend it. To my ears it is an improvement for the 32 year old LP12 I have. The comment about the failure to respond to the speed switch is true and I have not heard the Radikal PSU and motor but I am happy with the results.
Thank you for your prompt reply ^^
My AR turntable from the mid 80s uses no such type of power supply.
Yes excellent tables when service correctly
remek
Snakeoil , beware !
Mober DC motor has been selling for 5 years now, and ship to 23 Countries. All customers are happy.
@@echanemail7 Snake oil if it's changed the sound of the deck like he said then there's a problem ,, more open,, please I don't think so even the vallhala is still in there . What was wrong with the speed before? Snake oil.
@@revamp777 if I heard right, it's not just about the speed.
You go into a Linn dealer and ask to buy an LP12 and he says "that will be £30,000 please", and the buyer asks "£30,000 for an LP12"?, and the dealer says "yes its "£2500 to buy it as stock, but you'll have to factor in all the upgrades that will make it better during your ownership".
@@RightWing1 the choice is your to make. At least you don't have to sell the deck for another deck, if you want better sound. Your exaggerated comments are laughable.