It seems like, almost every time I watch one of your videos, I learn something new that saves me time and trouble. That's not always the case with even the LightBurn onlline tutorials, sorry to say. Not that their tutorials are bad, it's just in the way that you explain things is much easier to understand. Also, many times, they just don't cover the problem I may be having at the time. I'm almost never disappointed with your videos and advice.
I want to thank you! You said one key thing that I have not noticed from anyone else. And that was slow speed and lower power and that makes a lot of sense.😀🛫
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I have a Longer Ray 10 and after running the ramp test I have discovered that the cylinder of 50.00 mm is spot on (pun intended) when conducting the ramp test. And using a 20 power illuminated magnifying glass to locate the thinnest line it still comes out to where the cylinder sets the focal height perhaps I got lucky.😁🛫
This couldn’t have come at a better time for me. I am struggling horribly to get my neje to cut. I’ve read about ramp tests and tied it but wasn’t sure I was doing it correctly(I wasn’t) and didn’t trust my finding’s. As always you came to my rescue. Will try it again tomorrow. Fantastic video and instruction as always. Thank you Rich!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy well I got it cutting almost perfectly thanks to you!! Just need to work on my air assist. Air assist on this neje is more challenging than my ortur.
Really interesting. I would like to know what focus distance you set for the test (is it the one that the manufacturer provides') and at which part of the wood piece you set it, the higher side of the wood or the lower? I guess the higher because if not the laser head will bump into the wood, but I don't know
Hi Rich, thanks for your tips on focusing. I've redesigned, and 3d printed in Petg the LMPro LF focusing tool with 1mm increments stepping down over 3mm to, as you say defocus, this now gives me repeatable results. After watching your video though I'll check my laser and redesign the total height if necessary. The 1mm increments are within 0.02mm so I'm happy.
Another great video Rich. I am learning so much. Once I purchase a laser, my set-up time will be "next to no time". Each and every video is a huge help in understanding laser etching/cutting and navigating and use of Lightburn. Thank you!
Dear Rich. I saw your video on TABS yesterday. Thank you for yet another clear and helpful video. On the topic of focusing: I came across this video today, by chance. In my humble opinion, an important video yet I would like to make this remark: I have the Sculpfun S9 enlarged, with the linear guide X rail replacement and the Ultra 20W module upgrade. This module is very heavy and focusing it is difficult: after lowering it to meet the measuring alu cylinder and moving that cylinder out of the way, the module moves a tiny bit downwards. I could not find a way to get totally rid of this "fall". This means that any exact focusing by way of leaning the module on top of any measuring device, whether it is the "original" one or a corrected home made one, the laser will still get a bit out of the best focus. Are you familiar with this phenomenon? Would you have an advice on how to overcome it? Many thanks. Best regards, Emanuel
This is common of most lasers that focus manually on a slider Emanuel. The best thing to fix this is to run the ramp test, and then, with the results in hand, put in a new piece of material flat on the bed, and run the line again, perfectly focused as per the ramp test. Then run a few more lines, moving the laser module up a mm at a time. Compare these lines to the best focus on the ramp test result and when you see a match, you'll know how much to raise the laser. Usually, just putting something 1mm or so thick between the work piece and the focusing guide will do the trick.
I want to thank you for this video and very educational.I find the work you put in it very useful,and I will continue to follow you and learn very beautiful video. thanks in advance
Man, you're helping me SOOOO MUCH. I owe you. My father got this CO2 laser to help make products to sell for our alpaca farm shop, and tasked me with the learning process. If I can figure out how to contact you securely, I owe you one of the softest scarves you've ever felt.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy, I got it focused with the ramp test (2 inches from the top of the nozzle threads). I am SOoooooo thankful mirror realignment wasn't necessary. Thanks!
@@doen.8724, Again, thanks for the reminder. I take care of those that take care of me. Buying the scarf for him now. Hopefully, I can mail it to him this week. Merry Christmas!!!
Hello sir quick couple of questions....1 when i assemble my laser, i had a 5w now i have a 10w, how high off the waffle board do put the laser to start?, i do the test without the magnetic laser shield i gather? And you said i lift the stock... 5mm above flat on the right? Or higher? And once i get the figure from the caliper does that also account for the little plastic shield that goes under the diode? Thank you
Take the recommended focus distance, and then add 2-5mm to the top and bottom. That will be the slope for the material. Run the test without the shield, then replace the shield and jog the laser to the finest point to get your measurement.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy one question i forgot is does it matter how thick the stock is? I was using 4mm stock for my projects with the 5w z1.... thank you
Hey Rich, I tried this today and did the test 4 times. Couldn't really see a difference in the width along the line. 12 inch wide board, 10 inch line with focus set at 5 inches. Left side as up 10mm from the right side. Maybe I need a steeper angle? Laser is an xTool D1 Pro 20 watt
So many shortcuts, so little memory! 🤪 I go though my printed copy every once and a while and whack myself in the head saying, how could I have forgotten that one!!
I have watched a few videos now but have not put any into practice yet, will do so this week coming. Thank You very much for sharing, it is greatly appreciated!!
I understand what your saying here but the LaserBeam from sienci labs has 4 different lenses. They also send you the 4 focus templates for each lens. But you can adjust the dot size by screwing in the lens or unscrewing the lens. I hope I'm explaining this correctly. I need help focusing on the different lenses. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
That laser uses an adjustable focus lens Darryl, and is very unusual in today's market. You focus first by doing a ramp test to find the proper distance, and then by fine tuning the beam with the adjustment collar.
Hi Rich, i did know this way for testing the focus but never took the time...... now i did :). I did the test on the module NEJE A40640..... did it 3 times with different settings and all the 3 times i got 16mm, messured from the underside of the red plexiglass. Greetings from Holland
"check the base of the caliper with the base of the aluminum housing " can someone explain this to me in a more detail way. the base of the AH are you taking about the head of the laser. your measuring the head against the wood is that correct ?
The distance I measure is the distance from the wood to the bottom most part on the laser, usually the bottom of the nozzle or frame of the laser, whichever one is closest. The goal is to create a spacer to slip under either the nozzle or the frame of the module to focus with.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy my atom stack A10 V2 engraver gave me a metal piece that has 8 mm for engraver and a 4 mm for cutting and when I adjusted my laser for cutting ( 4mm ) I did a line that is 6 inches in width and it only gets lighter at the end but its barely noticeable so does that mean im good to go ??? I did this a couple of times too
With a distance of only 4mm, to focus, it would be hard to do a ramp test on this one. That sounds about right. It's too complicated to get into in a comment though.
Just wanted to say thank you…I have an Atomstack-like diode laser that I lost the focus plate for…asked online how to do it and the answer was “do a ramp test”…how the heck do you do a ramp test when the base of the laser is only 2-3 mm off the surface? Was going to try all sorts of different things and then watched your video…prop the wood up slightly at one end and poof, tiny ramp…it made me feel stupid not to realize that but I appreciate your help in finding the right focus distance for a laser that’s not far away from the material!
Great video and caught it while I was going over the machine thoroughly. Not sure it would be the same on any other OLM2Pro but it turned out optimum was they spacer the supplied + the card they supplied
Great tips as always Rich! Is there a recommendation for starting distance of the laser? Say your material is elevated at 12mm at the start of the left. How far should the laser be from the material at that point?
Great video as usual, will do the Ramp test on my SculpFun S9 as soon as I can get back to it. Keep up the great work and all your tips and tricks are very appreciated here Down Under. 💯
I do have the same laser from sculpfun. Have you had a chance to try it out? Is it any different from the manufacturer's steel block ( which is 2cm as you well know) ?
@@ahmetalizebrs I found, for mine, around 18.5mm was best. But as all lasers are slightly different, including same makes and models, your result could well be different.
@@Raafman42 thanks for replying. It's quite a difference especially when considering the fact that our machine is 5watts . I will test mine as well thanks
Hi Rich, Yes it's Tom again with another basic question. I have an OLM2P S2 LB version 1.11.03 In cuts/layers you have it set on "engrave". In the drop down window I have Line,,Fill,Fill+Line,Offset Fill but no engrave. How do I get my cuts/layers to be set on engrave? Tom
Thanks Rich. My laser is fixed height no Z axis. I have to focus the lens to the smallest dot. How would I go about a ramp test. Would I set the smallest dot at the start of the ramp test?
I have a Neje N40630 (7,5w output power) module but i cant seem to cut even 3mm plywood or mdf as easily as youtube videos show. I've managed to focus the laser pretty well with a black paper and 0.30% it starts to mark it but no matter where i set the focal point (top, mid or bottom) of the wood i can't cut with with the said speeds or passes to cut a 3mm plywood took me 14 passes. Any advice you could give?
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy so basically the only way to make my preferred settings for pallets is to save a “template” file and always start new projects with that file. Good thing that just how I do things, but seems like a huge oversight on Lightburn’s part. Though devs rarely ever make software for how users actually use it. On another subject I see you also use one of those counter top ice makers as a chiller. Mine has never kept up with the laser. I have to also use a bucket that I put ice packs in, but I’m using my laser on an industrial scale, so that might be why. Anyway thanks. Your videos are very helpful to a beginner like me
Wonderful video again! I have a question if you could indulge me. At about 16 minutes you said you can't lower your laser down in order to get halfway through the material. I figured if you have a 5mm piece and you can't get through on a few passes, if you lower the laser by say 3mm it would help cut all the way through. Am I wrong in thinking so? I have the Ortur LM pro 2 LF and am having fun with it engraving but I have some 5mm sheets of plywood I'd like to use for projects. Ideally this machine only cuts through 3mm from what I've heard.I figured lowering the laser would help get all the way through. This is my first machine and I'm learning tons thanks to you and people on the internet but I just wanted to see if my thinking is wrong. Thank you so much for all the time and attention to detail you give everyone. Have a great day!
The comment was on the Comgrow Z1 with the SF laser. It has a shield that has to be removed to cut. And yes, you lower the laser by half the thickness of the material to cut, however not more than 3mm.
This is lasernovice12. great videos and tips. I have the LM2 20W fixed focus. should I be doing this test too or just use the rod that came with the Otur
I love your videos and I'm ready to get my first laser. I've placed my order for the XTool pro 20w with the RA2 pro. I am wondering is it really worth the wait or is there one you would recommend? They said it'll ship July 26. Now I woke up to an email saying it's pushed back with a ship date of August 15.
Thanks! I will check this on my comgrow also!! (Edit: did the routine and my comgrow Z1 5w has a spot-on focus of 20mm ) One question I have: what is that extra wire you have running along the top-wire bundle for? Very curious about that!! 🙃
I had that wire connected to an audible meter during testing to see if there was any static discharge during the testing. Just haven't taken it off yet. I check the grounding on all new machines.
I have Michael, and it was only 1mm off. You may have seen using the focal piece in videos with the LM2 on the side of housing instead of under it. I was making the adjustment by eye. But I suggest you run it on yours, because they use several manufacturers, and what works for me, might be different for you.
What would your advice be on a laser with removable lenses and a focus ring? I understand this technique would be very helpful for a laser that has a fixed focus but mine always changes every time I put in a different lens. Going to test this technique out to see if I can get some consistent repeatability. Have an additional question. Been watching your videos for a year or so and just recently installed my laser so I joined your forum. A BIG THANK YOU BY THE WAY.IF I DON'T DONATE SOON I'M GOING TO FEEL GUILTY. Downloaded the library of what I thought would be close to my laser. I have a 7 watt optical laser. Which one do you think would be good for that? Its not 5.5 or 10. My thought process was to download a 5.5 watt and lower my power setting. Made something for my wife last night using the settings and it turned out very clean. It went a little deeper than I thought but it did it very smoothly and it was awesome. Gotta get a mask though.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thanks for confirming that. Reducing the power did the trick but I probably need to reduce the power more next time.. I have learned one plus for replaceable lenses though. I've read comments where over a period of time their laser will seem weaker because of soot slowly gathering on the lens, or whatever the case, therefore weakening the laser. I don't have to buy another laser. I can just replace the lens which is much much cheaper. Its a hassle focusing, and a bit unsettling, but buying a lens instead of another laser is a huge benefit. And oh yeah, a review of it on your forum would be nice. I have the seinci laser for the longmill. From what I saw it do last night it can be strong. It just has so many power levels and combined with power levels from lightburn it can be confusing.It might take a lot of test patterns to know what it does.
That would explain why my 1st etch attempt on my build stream failed. Comgrow claims 45mm focal length for the 10W. Time to do some measurements. I might have to reprint my air assist cone and (laser head mount). 😔😡
Rich, Great video I appreciate everything I am learning in your videos. I have a request though. I have started using Lightburn with my new OrturLM2Pro. I have installed the z axis focusing upgrade. Here is my dilemma. With the added weight of the upgrade, I want to change my acceleration properties in Lightburn and have NO CLUE how to edit this. This may be something your viewers may have never taken into consideration when they upgrade or do add-ons to the laser head. Even small amounts of weight added can affect the acceleration and deceleration of the stepper motors. Would this be a video you would have an interest in doing for the community? Paul
You can edit them in the machine settings Paul, from the Edit menu, but I wouldn't recommend it. Ortur uses Nema 17 motors, so if your belts are adjusted properly and your eccentric nuts are tight, it's not anything that these steppers can't handle. If you're concerned about it, I would just keep the white space scan under 1000 and slow the speed and lower the power on the layers. I have had the adjustment tool installed for 2 months now and it hasn't affected the quality at all without any changes.
*Two excellent points Merrill!* Unfortunately, their shield doesn't fit on a lot of lasers. I love it because I can adjust the focus on the fly! As the laser completes a pass, just a quick turn of the knob without having to stop!
thanks for anouther great videio of very useful information ......... anouther thought i would like to see would be a cleaning and maintenance from some we all trust to show the correct process
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy my appoliges kind sir i mis read your comment lol i am sure you are a very busy man and in high demand for your viedo qualty and the way you breake them down thanks for what you do
Uncanny timing...I just finished measuring my Z1 5W focus (using your great forum instructions) when this vid came in. Mine was very close to your findings at 18.55 mm. I've sanded my red shield down from 18 mm to 16.55 so that I can use a standard 2 mm shim for setting height. I'll likely have to remove the shield for those rare times when I might be cutting. When sanding the shield, make sure to sand the bottom (or you will sand off the mounting holes) and measure the four corner heights frequently so you shorten it squarely. Tip for Newbies (like me): I couldn't find the "Fire" button and discovered it must be enabled before it will display on the "Move" tab. You do this by going to Edit > Device Settings. From there flip the switch to turn on the ‘Enable Laser Fire Button’
Just wanted to take a moment to say thank you for your excellent videos. I find your work to be useful, informative and I greatly appreciate the downloads that you have availible.I have and will continue to "Like, Subscribe and Share" with others." Bravo, good sir!
You don't need to get Lightburn involved in this process. You can just hold down the "PULSE" button and an arrow key in the direction you want to burn a line. Easy peasy.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy CNC/diodelaser users can also bypass Lightburn to burn a line. I'm using gsender with laser enabled. All I have to do is hit the laser button and fire it for so many seconds and move the machine sideways. I would thing that if a laser machine uses gCode by GRBL then they could do it to.
Lol, I love the intro.... The "manufacturer's directions for focusing your laser are never correct", but maybe you can get some comic relief from the poor Chinese translations.
It seems like, almost every time I watch one of your videos, I learn something new that saves me time and trouble. That's not always the case with even the LightBurn onlline tutorials, sorry to say. Not that their tutorials are bad, it's just in the way that you explain things is much easier to understand. Also, many times, they just don't cover the problem I may be having at the time. I'm almost never disappointed with your videos and advice.
Great to hear that Greg! Thank you so much for watching and the wonderful comments!
I want to thank you! You said one key thing that I have not noticed from anyone else. And that was slow speed and lower power and that makes a lot of sense.😀🛫
Glad it helped! Everyone wants to go fast for some reason!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I have a Longer Ray 10 and after running the ramp test I have discovered that the cylinder of 50.00 mm is spot on (pun intended) when conducting the ramp test.
And using a 20 power illuminated magnifying glass to locate the thinnest line it still comes out to where the cylinder sets the focal height perhaps I got lucky.😁🛫
This couldn’t have come at a better time for me. I am struggling horribly to get my neje to cut. I’ve read about ramp tests and tied it but wasn’t sure I was doing it correctly(I wasn’t) and didn’t trust my finding’s. As always you came to my rescue. Will try it again tomorrow. Fantastic video and instruction as always. Thank you Rich!
Thanks Isaac! You can do it!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy well I got it cutting almost perfectly thanks to you!! Just need to work on my air assist. Air assist on this neje is more challenging than my ortur.
Really interesting. I would like to know what focus distance you set for the test (is it the one that the manufacturer provides') and at which part of the wood piece you set it, the higher side of the wood or the lower? I guess the higher because if not the laser head will bump into the wood, but I don't know
I set it on the higher side as close to the module as possible.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thank you very much!
Hi Rich, thanks for your tips on focusing. I've redesigned, and 3d printed in Petg the LMPro LF focusing tool with 1mm increments stepping down over 3mm to, as you say defocus, this now gives me repeatable results. After watching your video though I'll check my laser and redesign the total height if necessary. The 1mm increments are within 0.02mm so I'm happy.
Sounds good Rob!
I am new to a laser is I have to ask why would you want to defocus?
LOL I did the whole test and my kickstand matches my test perfectly.
Awesome! 👍 Thanks for watching!
Another great video Rich. I am learning so much. Once I purchase a laser, my set-up time will be "next to no time". Each and every video is a huge help in understanding laser etching/cutting and navigating and use of Lightburn. Thank you!
Right on!
Dear Rich. I saw your video on TABS yesterday. Thank you for yet another clear and helpful video. On the topic of focusing: I came across this video today, by chance. In my humble opinion, an important video yet I would like to make this remark: I have the Sculpfun S9 enlarged, with the linear guide X rail replacement and the Ultra 20W module upgrade. This module is very heavy and focusing it is difficult: after lowering it to meet the measuring alu cylinder and moving that cylinder out of the way, the module moves a tiny bit downwards. I could not find a way to get totally rid of this "fall". This means that any exact focusing by way of leaning the module on top of any measuring device, whether it is the "original" one or a corrected home made one, the laser will still get a bit out of the best focus. Are you familiar with this phenomenon? Would you have an advice on how to overcome it? Many thanks.
Best regards, Emanuel
This is common of most lasers that focus manually on a slider Emanuel. The best thing to fix this is to run the ramp test, and then, with the results in hand, put in a new piece of material flat on the bed, and run the line again, perfectly focused as per the ramp test. Then run a few more lines, moving the laser module up a mm at a time. Compare these lines to the best focus on the ramp test result and when you see a match, you'll know how much to raise the laser. Usually, just putting something 1mm or so thick between the work piece and the focusing guide will do the trick.
Thanks your explanations are easy to understand, and very informative. just getting started with my Ortur laser and lightburn
Great to hear Tom! Welcome to the obsession! 🤪
I want to thank you for this video and very educational.I find the work you put in it very useful,and I will continue to follow you and learn very beautiful video.
thanks in advance
You're very welcome Luke! 👍
Thanks for the video. Good, clear instructions for a NOOB to follow. Much appreciated!
Glad it helped Steve!
Thank you for this timely video, i have been questioning the focus by use of tool provided with my laser. I can’t wait to run this ramp test tomorrow.
Glad it was helpful David!
thanks for putting the link to the calipers in the description. My digital ones have readings that jump around as you describe :)
Glad I could help!
Man, you're helping me SOOOO MUCH. I owe you. My father got this CO2 laser to help make products to sell for our alpaca farm shop, and tasked me with the learning process. If I can figure out how to contact you securely, I owe you one of the softest scarves you've ever felt.
Glad to help Derek! All of my contact info is the description below.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy, I got it focused with the ramp test (2 inches from the top of the nozzle threads). I am SOoooooo thankful mirror realignment wasn't necessary. Thanks!
@@derek2593 So, did you send one of the "softest scarves you've ever felt" to this amazing helpful gentleman?🤔😁🙏🏼 He deserves it.
@@doen.8724, Not yet, but, thanks for the reminder. He certainly does deserve it.
@@doen.8724, Again, thanks for the reminder. I take care of those that take care of me. Buying the scarf for him now. Hopefully, I can mail it to him this week. Merry Christmas!!!
Hello sir quick couple of questions....1 when i assemble my laser, i had a 5w now i have a 10w, how high off the waffle board do put the laser to start?, i do the test without the magnetic laser shield i gather? And you said i lift the stock... 5mm above flat on the right? Or higher? And once i get the figure from the caliper does that also account for the little plastic shield that goes under the diode? Thank you
Take the recommended focus distance, and then add 2-5mm to the top and bottom. That will be the slope for the material. Run the test without the shield, then replace the shield and jog the laser to the finest point to get your measurement.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy one question i forgot is does it matter how thick the stock is? I was using 4mm stock for my projects with the 5w z1.... thank you
Not for a ramp test.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy thank you Sir, great vid.... Hits subscribe
The little tips you give are invaluable. Thank you.
Glad you like them Noel, Thanks!
Hey Rich, I tried this today and did the test 4 times. Couldn't really see a difference in the width along the line. 12 inch wide board, 10 inch line with focus set at 5 inches. Left side as up 10mm from the right side. Maybe I need a steeper angle? Laser is an xTool D1 Pro 20 watt
The left side needs to be really close to the module. The xTool has a very short focus Andy.
This Video was amazing. Thank you! And yes stay till the end!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi Rich, informative video - as always. I like the new intro!
Hey Don, thanks!
Keep it up Rich. You are helping a bunch of us.
I'm having fun sharing my learning experiences John, so yeah, many more on the way John! Thanks for watching!
love those tips...period! Comma...but my fave was control arrow up down whatever...Thanks!
Awesome! 👍 Thanks for watching!
Another winning and informative video. Simple process for better results. Wish I could give you 👍👍👍👍👍
You just did Larry! 🤪 Thanks!
Thank you very much,
Welcome 😊
How do you set speed and power?
Each layer in Lightburn has their own settings for speed and power on the Cuts / Layers tab.
Thank you Rich! That’s really helpful.
Very welcome Sir!
Once you get the focus number what do you do with it?
That's the distance you set between your laser and the material David.
I had totally forgot about the . And, keys. Thanks!
So many shortcuts, so little memory! 🤪 I go though my printed copy every once and a while and whack myself in the head saying, how could I have forgotten that one!!
Thanks!
I have watched a few videos now but have not put any into practice yet, will do so this week coming. Thank You very much for sharing, it is greatly appreciated!!
Wow, thank you Kate! I appreciate you supporting the effort!
Thank you Kate! You'll be an expert in no time!
I understand what your saying here but the LaserBeam from sienci labs has 4 different lenses. They also send you the 4 focus templates for each lens. But you can adjust the dot size by screwing in the lens or unscrewing the lens. I hope I'm explaining this correctly. I need help focusing on the different lenses. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
That laser uses an adjustable focus lens Darryl, and is very unusual in today's market. You focus first by doing a ramp test to find the proper distance, and then by fine tuning the beam with the adjustment collar.
Once u do the focus test what do you do with the results? Where do those results get inputted?
They don't. You use the results to cut your own focusing guide to focus the laser to the perfect distance.
Ramp test is defenitely the best way to find the focal length of you laser. As usual you share the best stuff. 😁 Thanks for the video!
It really is George! Thanks for watching!
Hi Rich, i did know this way for testing the focus but never took the time...... now i did :).
I did the test on the module NEJE A40640..... did it 3 times with different settings and all the 3 times i got 16mm, messured from the underside of the red plexiglass.
Greetings from Holland
Thanks for sharing Peter! My A40640 comes in at 17mm. So you see, they're all different!
"check the base of the caliper with the base of the aluminum housing " can someone explain this to me in a more detail way. the base of the AH are you taking about the head of the laser. your measuring the head against the wood is that correct ?
The distance I measure is the distance from the wood to the bottom most part on the laser, usually the bottom of the nozzle or frame of the laser, whichever one is closest. The goal is to create a spacer to slip under either the nozzle or the frame of the module to focus with.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy my atom stack A10 V2 engraver gave me a metal piece that has 8 mm for engraver and a 4 mm for cutting and when I adjusted my laser for cutting ( 4mm ) I did a line that is 6 inches in width and it only gets lighter at the end but its barely noticeable so does that mean im good to go ??? I did this a couple of times too
With a distance of only 4mm, to focus, it would be hard to do a ramp test on this one. That sounds about right. It's too complicated to get into in a comment though.
Just wanted to say thank you…I have an Atomstack-like diode laser that I lost the focus plate for…asked online how to do it and the answer was “do a ramp test”…how the heck do you do a ramp test when the base of the laser is only 2-3 mm off the surface? Was going to try all sorts of different things and then watched your video…prop the wood up slightly at one end and poof, tiny ramp…it made me feel stupid not to realize that but I appreciate your help in finding the right focus distance for a laser that’s not far away from the material!
Glad it helped!
Thank you for another awesome through video Rich! I'm always learning something from you!!!
You got it Doc! Thanks for watching!
I dont see the link for the caliper?
This is the one I use now: amzn.to/44KQyqa
How do I set up the focus to run this test? Maybe I missed it in the video. I have the Ortur laser master 2. I guess how low do I set the laser head?
Just like in the video Joseph.
Great video and caught it while I was going over the machine thoroughly. Not sure it would be the same on any other OLM2Pro but it turned out optimum was they spacer the supplied + the card they supplied
That's convenient! Happy to hear it James!
Great tips as always Rich! Is there a recommendation for starting distance of the laser? Say your material is elevated at 12mm at the start of the left. How far should the laser be from the material at that point?
As close as possible.
Thank you, master of creativity! 🤓
Thank you Salam! Just sharing my experiences. Thanks so much for watching!
Great video as usual, will do the Ramp test on my SculpFun S9 as soon as I can get back to it. Keep up the great work and all your tips and tricks are very appreciated here Down Under. 💯
Thanks! Will do Brett!
I do have the same laser from sculpfun. Have you had a chance to try it out? Is it any different from the manufacturer's steel block ( which is 2cm as you well know) ?
@@ahmetalizebrs I found, for mine, around 18.5mm was best. But as all lasers are slightly different, including same makes and models, your result could well be different.
@@Raafman42 thanks for replying. It's quite a difference especially when considering the fact that our machine is 5watts . I will test mine as well thanks
Hi Rich,
Yes it's Tom again with another basic question.
I have an OLM2P S2 LB version 1.11.03
In cuts/layers you have it set on "engrave".
In the drop down window I have Line,,Fill,Fill+Line,Offset Fill but no engrave. How do I get my cuts/layers to be set on engrave?
Tom
OOPS,,,,I was going step by step,pausing the video and you answered my question a little further on!
Sorry,,,
Tom
Awesome Tom! Glad you got it!
Makes perfect sense! Thank you Rich.
Thanks for watching JR!
Thanks Rich. My laser is fixed height no Z axis. I have to focus the lens to the smallest dot. How would I go about a ramp test. Would I set the smallest dot at the start of the ramp test?
With a manual focus you don't need a ramp test. This is for fixed focus lasers Nick.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thanks Rich. I'm still learning.
So how would you factor in the fixed focus lense? Since you are using the spacer from the lense and not the heat sink?
I'm measuring from the workpiece to the bottom of the aluminum heat sink Ron. This is only for fixed focus lenses.
Hi Rich. Another great tip(s) Hopefully tomorrow is the day when I get my package with the laser. Thank you .😀
Fingers crossed Bob!
Why did you raise the left side?
So I could find the smallest line.
I have a Neje N40630 (7,5w output power) module but i cant seem to cut even 3mm plywood or mdf as easily as youtube videos show. I've managed to focus the laser pretty well with a black paper and 0.30% it starts to mark it but no matter where i set the focal point (top, mid or bottom) of the wood i can't cut with with the said speeds or passes to cut a 3mm plywood took me 14 passes. Any advice you could give?
Your lens may be dirty.
Would it gain anything to do a vertical line at the determined focus point?
Any way that works for you Merrill! 👍
Hi and thank but is it for 5w or 10w ?
The ramp test is for every laser.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Sorry I would like to said do you used 5w or 10w ? please
@@laurentpilot8185 This was a 5W, but it doesn't matter what the wattage is.
How did you get it on engrave
I don't understand the question Treva....
Learning so much. Your work is greatly appreciated. Thank you
Thank you Leonard! Glad you liked it.
If I click “make default for all”
Will that save the changes to the number/color in the cut pallet globally for all files?
It will copy the settings to all of the layers in the cut editor.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy so basically the only way to make my preferred settings for pallets is to save a “template” file and always start new projects with that file.
Good thing that just how I do things, but seems like a huge oversight on Lightburn’s part. Though devs rarely ever make software for how users actually use it.
On another subject I see you also use one of those counter top ice makers as a chiller. Mine has never kept up with the laser. I have to also use a bucket that I put ice packs in, but I’m using my laser on an industrial scale, so that might be why.
Anyway thanks. Your videos are very helpful to a beginner like me
@@geauxracerx The icemaker did better than the commercial 5200 chiller I have now.
Wonderful video again! I have a question if you could indulge me. At about 16 minutes you said you can't lower your laser down in order to get halfway through the material. I figured if you have a 5mm piece and you can't get through on a few passes, if you lower the laser by say 3mm it would help cut all the way through. Am I wrong in thinking so? I have the Ortur LM pro 2 LF and am having fun with it engraving but I have some 5mm sheets of plywood I'd like to use for projects. Ideally this machine only cuts through 3mm from what I've heard.I figured lowering the laser would help get all the way through. This is my first machine and I'm learning tons thanks to you and people on the internet but I just wanted to see if my thinking is wrong. Thank you so much for all the time and attention to detail you give everyone. Have a great day!
The comment was on the Comgrow Z1 with the SF laser. It has a shield that has to be removed to cut. And yes, you lower the laser by half the thickness of the material to cut, however not more than 3mm.
can a laser be used to cut a pocket into wood to inlay silver wire..?
Yes, a C02 could do something like that.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy great! would it be possible to control how deep the pocket is along the entire burn...for consistency..?
@@squidskunk Wood is funny, the grain plays a key factor. You have to run a sample test piece to see how far in you need to go, what speed and power.
This is lasernovice12. great videos and tips. I have the LM2 20W fixed focus. should I be doing this test too or just use the rod that came with the Otur
Sorry no need to comment. I was too quick to ask the question.
😁
I love your videos and I'm ready to get my first laser. I've placed my order for the XTool pro 20w with the RA2 pro. I am wondering is it really worth the wait or is there one you would recommend? They said it'll ship July 26. Now I woke up to an email saying it's pushed back with a ship date of August 15.
I don't have an opinion on it Charles since I don't have one.
Excellent video as usual.
Thanks again John!
Thanks! I will check this on my comgrow also!!
(Edit: did the routine and my comgrow Z1 5w has a spot-on focus of 20mm )
One question I have: what is that extra wire you have running along the top-wire bundle for? Very curious about that!!
🙃
I had that wire connected to an audible meter during testing to see if there was any static discharge during the testing. Just haven't taken it off yet. I check the grounding on all new machines.
Rich, have you run this test on the Ortur Master 2 Pro - LF. Or is the 30mm focal length okay.
I have Michael, and it was only 1mm off. You may have seen using the focal piece in videos with the LM2 on the side of housing instead of under it. I was making the adjustment by eye. But I suggest you run it on yours, because they use several manufacturers, and what works for me, might be different for you.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thanks Rich I will give it a try once I get the laser set up.
What would your advice be on a laser with removable lenses and a focus ring?
I understand this technique would be very helpful for a laser that has a fixed focus but mine always changes every time I put in a different lens.
Going to test this technique out to see if I can get some consistent repeatability.
Have an additional question. Been watching your videos for a year or so and just recently installed my laser so I joined your forum. A BIG THANK YOU BY THE WAY.IF I DON'T DONATE SOON I'M GOING TO FEEL GUILTY. Downloaded the library of what I thought would be close to my laser. I have a 7 watt optical laser. Which one do you think would be good for that? Its not 5.5 or 10. My thought process was to download a 5.5 watt and lower my power setting.
Made something for my wife last night using the settings and it turned out very clean. It went a little deeper than I thought but it did it very smoothly and it was awesome. Gotta get a mask though.
The adjustable focus modules are almost a thing of the past now. All of the new ones are now fixed focus. Yes, the 5.5W would be the closest download.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy
Thanks for confirming that. Reducing the power did the trick but I probably need to reduce the power more next time.. I have learned one plus for replaceable lenses though. I've read comments where over a period of time their laser will seem weaker because of soot slowly gathering on the lens, or whatever the case, therefore weakening the laser. I don't have to buy another laser. I can just replace the lens which is much much cheaper. Its a hassle focusing, and a bit unsettling, but buying a lens instead of another laser is a huge benefit.
And oh yeah, a review of it on your forum would be nice.
I have the seinci laser for the longmill. From what I saw it do last night it can be strong. It just has so many power levels and combined with power levels from lightburn it can be confusing.It might take a lot of test patterns to know what it does.
Material testing is the key!
That would explain why my 1st etch attempt on my build stream failed. Comgrow claims 45mm focal length for the 10W. Time to do some measurements. I might have to reprint my air assist cone and (laser head mount). 😔😡
Could be... 2mm, as you well know, is a lot to be off by.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy shield is 38mm on the 10W. I'll measure the real focal distance when I get time to run the slope.
@@OldCurmudgeon3DP Let me know!
You mentioned a USB microscope. Which one do you have?
I use a cheap USB one. amzn.to/3v8pDUf
Man, you're good! Thanks!
I appreciate that!
Rich, Great video I appreciate everything I am learning in your videos. I have a request though. I have started using Lightburn with my new OrturLM2Pro. I have installed the z axis focusing upgrade. Here is my dilemma. With the added weight of the upgrade, I want to change my acceleration properties in Lightburn and have NO CLUE how to edit this. This may be something your viewers may have never taken into consideration when they upgrade or do add-ons to the laser head. Even small amounts of weight added can affect the acceleration and deceleration of the stepper motors. Would this be a video you would have an interest in doing for the community?
Paul
You can edit them in the machine settings Paul, from the Edit menu, but I wouldn't recommend it. Ortur uses Nema 17 motors, so if your belts are adjusted properly and your eccentric nuts are tight, it's not anything that these steppers can't handle. If you're concerned about it, I would just keep the white space scan under 1000 and slow the speed and lower the power on the layers. I have had the adjustment tool installed for 2 months now and it hasn't affected the quality at all without any changes.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy That makes me feel more comfortable knowing this. Thanks Rich.
Two points: The Ortur adjustable laser shield ~$25 is great.
And...moving the laser down about 1mm between cuts helps
*Two excellent points Merrill!* Unfortunately, their shield doesn't fit on a lot of lasers. I love it because I can adjust the focus on the fly! As the laser completes a pass, just a quick turn of the knob without having to stop!
I have been designing a mount for the Ortur that has air and an adjustment screw that moves laser up/down 1/2 mm per 1 360 degree turn.
thanks for anouther great videio of very useful information ......... anouther thought i would like to see would be a cleaning and maintenance from some we all trust to show the correct process
You should see my list Bandit! It's definitely on there!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy i must have missed i'll have anouther look thanks
@@Bandit-di3pi I didn't post the list, just saying I have 56 topics for videos right now and growing every day!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy my appoliges kind sir i mis read your comment lol i am sure you are a very busy man and in high demand for your viedo qualty and the way you breake them down thanks for what you do
@@Bandit-di3pi And thank you for watching Sir!
So, now that you know the ideal focal length is 18.25 mm how do you go about setting it for each piece of material?
I have cut a square piece of wood, 18mm and use it for the focus now Jesse.
Uncanny timing...I just finished measuring my Z1 5W focus (using your great forum instructions) when this vid came in. Mine was very close to your findings at 18.55 mm. I've sanded my red shield down from 18 mm to 16.55 so that I can use a standard 2 mm shim for setting height. I'll likely have to remove the shield for those rare times when I might be cutting. When sanding the shield, make sure to sand the bottom (or you will sand off the mounting holes) and measure the four corner heights frequently so you shorten it squarely.
Tip for Newbies (like me): I couldn't find the "Fire" button and discovered it must be enabled before it will display on the "Move" tab. You do this by going to Edit > Device Settings. From there flip the switch to turn on the ‘Enable Laser Fire Button’
Thanks for the tips and comments Tat! Note to C02 users, *never turn on the fire button!* The fire button is for diode lasers *only!*
Rich blowing manufacturers out the water. I'm a lightburn noob but everything I know I learned from this channel.
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching!
Nice work
Thank you Dominic!
Just wanted to take a moment to say thank you for your excellent videos. I find your work to be useful, informative and I greatly appreciate the downloads that you have availible.I have and will continue to "Like, Subscribe and Share" with others." Bravo, good sir!
Thank you so much for the kind words Sir!
Thanks Yoda 👍
🤪 Thank you too Tony!
Instead of using the calipers directly, use a small wooden wedge between the wood and the module. Mark the wedge then measure with the calipers.
Good work around Philip, thanks!
Try using allen wrenches or drill bits. They come in many diameters: 4, 5, 6, 7mm, etc, or imperial. Find the one that fits snugly inside the gap.
You don't need to get Lightburn involved in this process. You can just hold down the "PULSE" button and an arrow key in the direction you want to burn a line. Easy peasy.
Only on a C02 Charles. Most of my viewers are diode laser users.
That's what I did with my OMTech with Ruida controller. Not sure if all lasers let you do the same thing.
@@chazcov08 Nope, just the C02.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy
CNC/diodelaser users can also bypass Lightburn to burn a line. I'm using gsender with laser enabled. All I have to do is hit the laser button and fire it for so many seconds and move the machine sideways. I would thing that if a laser machine uses gCode by GRBL then they could do it to.
@@iwannaapple7190 You can just go to the Move tab and click on fire for a diode laser, not a Co2. On a Co2, hit pulse and right arrow.
Wow was lost on this video. Focus confuses me
It has to be perfect in order to get good results.
👍👍👍👍👍👍
😃😃😃😃
Lol, I love the intro.... The "manufacturer's directions for focusing your laser are never correct", but maybe you can get some comic relief from the poor Chinese translations.
🤪 I'm still studying Chinglish!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Lol, does Google do Omtech Chinese translations? If not, they should.
Rich, When you started the burn did you set the distance with the drop down attachment on the module?
Yes, of course John. This is the LaserMATIC 10, it uses a steel focusing block.
Thanks!
You bet! Thanks for the support!