Find Your Perfect Kerf
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
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#lightburn #lightburn software #hobo with wood #laser engraver #Roly
Sweet I’m going to try this at 45 . Thanks man ❤
I would never sell an item that was only friction-fitted together. Wood, even plywood, expands and contracts, and without glue, you run the risk of a very dissatisfied customer when their purchase begins to separate. You also run the risk when assembling such a tight fit that the extremely thin veneer breaks off.
I respectfully disagree. I have made more than a few things that are friction fit, not everything but some, and they are phenomenal, no issues whatsoever. In fact, my sample friction fit items have been through the summer (100+ degrees) and winter ( freezing temps- snow) in my garage, and they are as perfect as the day they were made.
EXCELLENT!! That makes so much sense. That was such an informative and helpful video Steve, thanks so much. Can’t wait to do that test.
Glad you found it helpful. Be sure you are subscribed and hit the bell for notifications so you don't miss out on any Lives or videos. Thanks for watching.
Can you show how to input that kerf # when doing your tealight box for example.... do we go into the layer settings and adjust Kerf Offset? And if you do not rotate your material to a 45 and decided to go with .16 is that what you would enter into Kerf Offset? Also if I were to switch from 3mm to 6mm can I just use that same file I saved?
Yes, you enter the kerf offset in the cuts and layers settings. If you used this file on 3mm material, the tabs would not be long enough. And the whole reason for doing this test for me is to find a uniform kerf. That means only using the 45 degree scan angle. I don't have to rotate the material unless you are trying to save material.
You just guessed at kerf didn't acutely find it just all guessing
Don't know what video you watched or if you even watched the video. No guesswork here. Even the diode laser manufacturers I have spoken with have commented how impressed they were with the idea of cutting straight lines on a 45-degree angle to get a uniform kerf. The kerf can still vary depending on the material and material thickness, but it will be uniform. I don't guess. I test.
OMG, only into 4+ minutes of tutorial and have already learned two new things (select multiple Cut and Engrave settings). Oooops! My download generated 101 thru 103 and 104 thru 107? I am guessing that it is the same concept. I downloaded file as .dxf, I don't have Inkscape.
Lightburn Community Support Group pointed your video out to me. Already a question...will this work on a Rudia CO2 50w Laser? My baby brother restored it and has it in my garage for me to play with. I just finished watching your tutorial and am understanding everything (I think). I am going to give it a try. I have to split my screen with your tutorial on one side and Lightburn on the opposite side and follow along.
The CO2 laser has a spot size that is more symmetrical than the diode lasers, but yes, this will work for CO2 laser also.
Does kerf offset change with thickness of material? In other words, if I determine my ideal offset of say 0.14 when testing on 6mm Baltic Burch plywood and I switch to 3mm Baltic Burch plywood do I have to change the offset?
Yes.
Your kerf will change from different material thicknesses and with different material types. Different material will burn more than others creating a larger kerf.
You average diode may only have an optimal focal length of around 3mm. Meaning the laser beam begins to get wider before and after the optimal focal length. Your laser beam is essentially shaped like an hour glass.
So depending on you focus, material thickness, and material type, your kerf will vary.
So if you are looking to get your tightest kerf. It will require testing and testing with each material and material thickness. Some will vary more than others. Test.test. test.
Absolutely brilliant! Although I'm still a six month newbie, I've graduated to the Roly Mk2 and it's a whole 'nother world. I really like your in depth explanation and visual demos. You made a near microscopic concept understandable. Much less intimidated now by box construction. Thank you for your time, talent and patience. Us small fry really appreciate a big kahuna who will help us swim upstream. Kudos!
You are right about it being microscopic.... until you start assembly. You will hear a lot of people talking about the desire to have the smallest spot size possible. I am testing the differences in engraving with different scan angles to see if you can see a difference.
Steve, this a wonderful presentation. First you showed how to get the test cuts and burn them just as they come. Next you showed (confusingly) that the even kerf sizes got progressively tighter while the odd sizes did not. Finally, you ran the tests at 45 degrees and explained that due to rectangular lasers spot shape why all of the tests get progressively tighter. These demonstrations should allow most anyone to understand how to adjust kerf for boxes. WELL DONE!👍
Thank you.
Really Really appreciate you presenting this. Just subscribed.
Thanks for the sub!
Lots of good info. Thank you!
At the very end, when you put the 45deg test pieces on the rotated piece of material to save waste that would have required yet another 45/45 test cut because in reality, now the grain of the wood is running at a 90 on the 45 test piece.
TERRIFIC!!! 'Nuff sed!!!
Hi Steve..great video, thanks..I spent all day yesterday doing that but by trial and error..this will make life a lot easier.
Steve, explained very well and FYI I copied the link and emailed it to myself. I put the email of the video link in a folder so later I can find it easier. This is one of those videos!
Thanks for watching.
Larry, you can create playlists on RUclips that you can save videos to. Can create a Lightburn Tutorial Playlist, for example, and just save all those videos there, so they are easy to find
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1,2.
Hey Steve in your lightburn camara windows you have 2 extra buttons auto exposure / auto brightness but we ae both runnng the same ver 1.5.01 i use a Mac maybe thats the different
Thanks!
When you find the desired kerf size where do you enter it into the cuts and layers
In your cut/layers settings. The kerf offset setting is 3 lines below the number of passes setting.
@@HoboWithWood Thanks
This was beyond helpful and informative! Fantastic video. A must watch for anyone trying to create boxes or anything that needs to fit together. Clearly presented.. You are a gem! Of course I found your after spending hours doing test cuts and beating my head against the wall because the pieces did not fit like my test pieces. Thanks a million! Will be sending you a $ Thanks, momentarily.
Very good video. Once you find the perfect fit do you need to enter the details into lightburn somewhere ie 0.16 ? . What if you design and make your own boxes in lightburn? Is this the kerf offset?, cheers
You enter your kerf offset in the cut/layers settings. And yes, this is the kerf for any design you create.
As Wayne and Garth so beautifully coined: "...we're not worthy, we're not worthy!..."
Thank you so much for this tutorial. Invaluable.
👍 ❤
Hi Steve I have a question. Let say my Kerf was the 0.17 do I put that in the kerf on the cut layer. I also use the red as my cut layer. Thanks for the great videos I’ve been watching you for about a year now.
That is correct
Is your roly a 20 or 30w? I'm up in the air on which one to get
very clear .... tha
Steve...... this will not only apply to cutting out boxes... But what about cutting out jigsaw puzzles? Wouldn't this also work for them????
Not exactly. You only benefit from this when cutting on a 45 degree scan angle. As soon as you deviate from that scan angle you lose the uniform spot size.
Ok Gotcha... by the way I just linked this session over at
Oakfields Creative Workshop
Thanks!
No sir. Thank You!
Very interesting. Never thought of it like that, but it makes perfect sense!
On an unrelated note, I really like watching your videos. You remind me so much of a really good friend of mine who passed away a few years ago.
He must have been a really cool dude. 😎
Is my sixty watt monport laser a round beam or a square beam? And would I do the test the same way? And thank you very much! I would like to see more videos about your 60 W. Monort laser have not seen them yet.
It is my understanding that the spot shape of a CO2 laser is actually elliptical. IF the spot NEVER changed, in theory you should be able to do something similar. BUT with all the regular cleaning of the mirrors and lenses, the spot size and shape may in fact change ever so slightly. That would require testing for the kerf after avery cleaning. And since the CO2 is already closer to being round and with the variances associated with different material types. I don't know that the extra work would be worth the time and trouble. Again... these are my understandings.
Thank you very much. I appreciate your time. And I love your channel.
So, if someone does this test, and the .16 was the best fit, then their kerf would be .16?
That would be the kerf using the settings and parameters used at that time, yes. Different material and thicknesses burn differently.
I just watched this video after your reference in the live on 5/22. I have one question. In lightburn what was the keft offset setting during the test?
I don't understand your question? The test actually cuts four different kerfs in each test piece for testing four optimum fit.
I think he means when you cut the test pieces is the kerf offset set to zero. I just guessed it would be zero. Am I correct?
Steve, does this work with items like the crosses that only have 1 tab going into the slots? Or wouldn’t it matter because of there only being 1 tab?
No need to do this with the cross designs. Inner slots have their own issues when it comes to kerf. This video is dealings primarily with box designs.
@@HoboWithWood I thought that might be the case. Thanks for the great info!
thanks, you have answered a lot of my questions I have been confused about with kerfs. outstanding presentation.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video to solve a real problem, thanks a lot Steve
Very welcome!
@@HoboWithWood I don't understand what happened here, when I rotated my burn test 45 degrees the fingers were loose in .100 and .120 but in .110 they were too tight; the same as when cutting at 90 degrees. However, your explanation made a lot of sense.
@@FedeVal-n2u your experience is atypical. It doesn't make sense. Which laser are you using?
@@HoboWithWood is an Atezer L2 24w, I recently recalibrated the x and y axes and readjusted the belts but I assume something else is wrong with this machine.
Could it be that the rectangle that represents the laser is not aligned correctly with x and y?
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Very nice practical turtorial. Thanks Hobo.
Glad you like it!
Thanks!
That is an excellent solution for kerf size. Thank you.
You are welcome!
I know you discussed this before but seeing it again was great.
I had too many people asking follow up questions. I only mentioned it before and didn't go into detail. A lot of newbies had too many follow-up questions. So made this video showing where to get the burn test and how to set it up.
This is something I have been struggling over. I like your new solo videos. Very informative. Thanks!.
Great video Steve, very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome,well explained
Glad you liked it
Great information. I knew the spot was a rectangle but I never thought to search for an angle that would provide a consistent kerf.
Do you need to mention putting the corners on the top and side at the same ruler number?
Not sure I completely understand the question. But to find your kerf this method works as is.
@@HoboWithWood Ah, that makes sense! @HoboWithWood I think what @merrillalbury8214 was referring to is how to get your material set on your honeycomb at exactly 45 degrees. Lining the corners to the same number on the honeycomb's ruler.
GAME CHANGER. Thanks for sharing
Excellent information as per usual😊❤
First! 😂
I use a slightly different method on all materials & power settings. This works for not just boxes but inlays and anything that needs a good fit. It also gives you the X & Y beam difference which is very important for things like inlays. Diode lasers often have a different X and Y kerf. If your trying to get a good inlay you need to compensate for both. Speed, power, material and thickness change kerf on a laser. The finest kerf is less power, more speed and usually multiple passes. Single pass at slow speed is the widest kerf. Less power and more speed force the high intensity center of the beam to cut or do damage while the outer beam rings not having enough energy to do damage. Its a tricky balance.
The video example is a bit confusing as it makes it unclear if your testing X or Y kerf and the 45 deg rotation is a sudo average. But it does work good if your only making boxes from boxes.py or similar. When the samples are not rotated 45 degrees on some diode lasers you will find some joints are loose and some too tight depending on settings.
A method I use is make a rectangle of 100mm x 15mm then add dividing lines every 10mm that cross the top/bottom of the box. The dividing lines need to exceed the top/bottom by a few mm to rule out overburn at the start/end of a cut. Note do not use boxes as this will cause a double cut on each line. Also make sure all lines are horizontal or vertical only! Making this larger is easier to measure but the 9 dividing lines is important for easy math. Cut the lines 1st then the box. This will give you 10 pieces of intended or drawn 10mm x 15mm. Lay them together and measure across the 10mm faces as a total of all 10 parts. Your project box was 100mm, your measured of all 10 (dividing lines plus 1) is 98.65 your kerf of 10 cuts is 1.35mm therefor your single kerf is 0.135mm (1.35 divided by 10). Note this is cut width which is equal either side of the cut line. Now you have your accurate X kerf, you can rotate the entire project to get the Y kerf. Try this with single pass and lower power higher speed multi pass. There are a number of videos on part of this method.
One thing that makes the test easier is to cut a slot out of the material the thickness of the wood minus an assumed kerf so you can stand all the tiny pieces in the slot to measure, their can't be any wiggle room and you must get them tight together.
A good test project for kerf learning is make a small desk nameplate with an inlayed name. Simple cut right through inlay. Letters are a bit tricky as they are inlays inside of inlays with the letter centers. Each inlay needs kerf compensation. It should fit no gaps and not all fall apart when picked up.
That is all well and good (BUT) what about the time did it go down the tube by 100 % ? Be well and be safe Bill....
I don't understand your question.
Will it take longer to print ?@@HoboWithWood
Absolutely not. The only thing you are doing different is changing the scan angle. The speed is the same. The total travel distance is the same. Nothing changes except having a uniform kerf .
Thank you bill@@HoboWithWood