Well, if no one understands why paint and body work costs as much as it does, all one has to do is watch this video. Super talented you are. And two worlds worth of patience! Thanks for the great presentation!
Pretty amazing transformation, I feel bad for the body work folks that have to save these kinds of train wrecks. You've definitely outdone yourself getting it smoothed out for paint, and it looks like it will hold up well too. I pride myself on my ability to stretch wheel openings and massage quarter panels in steel with minimal bodywork needed before paint. The fiberglass panels are a simple solution but after 30+ years building race cars I prefer to do it all old school with cutting and welding. These big tire cars are violent and they will rattle bondo off a car in no time so I do my best to finish weld everything and leave as smooth a surface as possible.
I can not for the life of Me understand why anybody of any caliber would question what He does and why,look at His work it is impeccable to say the least. You do You like nobody else can.🙌✌️
I admire your talent and dedication, especially knowing this is a race car previously messed up. I would have a hard time being that caring when you know, as you said, that it will crack anyway. Or maybe wrecked again.
people need to realize its not a restoration , had you used epoxy initially it would of sat for another 5 to 7 days before you could start your filler work & sometimes we dont have that option or time... great job thanks for spending the time to make the video.
Just by setting the new piece on top of the quarters made it look better before you welded it on! Great job!! Everything he commented on holds true to anything you do, cheaper isn't always better
I gotta try that 10% resin added to the plastic filler I never thought of doing that but it seems like a really good hack instead of buying glaze! Of course I'm just learning this now after 98% of my body work is done but I'm going to try this tomorrow. Awesome job man and thank you for teaching me a new trick.👍
As a professional welder and Autobody/Painter, I think you went the cheap route. You DEFINITELY could have made that one solid weld. It would have taken longer but that’s hat you do if you take pride in your work. When people mod cars with custom sheet metal work, you make sure it’s one long continuous weld on every panel. If not it cracks like we’re saying. I have done many custom modifications and paint jobs. I wouldn’t have taken the job if I couldn’t have given it my 100%.
I thought it could have been completely welded if you let it cool and went side to side cooling off. But that’s a lot of work just have to get more money!
Well I'm not sure what you're saying about what's underneath that fabricated panel in regards to setting anything ablaze by welding, so... But, using light mig welds in order to finish the radiuses without warping any panels is a must. NO FILLER NEEDED WHEN PANELS ARE PROPERLY BUTT WELDED TOGETHER. As you said, all those panels were improperly attached, and you are 100% right 👍. What a mess!
I think you do incredible work Not picking at you I get caping the corner Why not keep stitching to 💯 % weld you had them close enough Just my thoughts I watched the video when you painted this car You got skills bro I was painting spot repairs on a semi this week Monday to be exact I had to stand on the fuel tank I slipped spilled a whole cup of paint I’m down for the count need knee surgery You’d think four feet is not far to fall Yup I fell off the turnip truck lol 😂
I would have panel bonded the fiberglass section to the steel quarter panel using a contoured backing strip behind a butted seam. No overlap seen, plus very strong, water tight bond.
I myself would have passed on that job. I have found that you need to do the type of work you want to do. and there is always a market for what you you want to do. and just pass on the type of bodywork you don't want to do. ... I'm sure it will be fine . good work I know your pain....
Panel bond the whole underside of the strip and a thin coat on the quarter corner ,it would be like a 2 inch wide water thigh weld 3-4 feet long with no chance of cracking like you talked about
If that was my race car and the body work is all done to perfection. Make a fiber glass mould of the entire body and make fiber glass bodies from that mould. Sell entire bodies and make money off it. Win win....
I don't see how the 2 before you let this go out the door with their names on it like it was. The first guy either didn't know or didn't care about the finished project. For sure the second guy had to see it wasn't finished and well, he must have felt the same way as the first guy. Hopefully you explained all this in detail to your customer, so you don't catch the blame of not if, but when this work starts to crack. By the way, you do some awesome work, looking forward to part 2 to see the finished product.
Great work sorting out the not so good modifications. I would of felt more confident brush priming thin epoxy into all the welds then using epoxy filler and finsh off with Upol D and then epoxy primer and then polyurethane two pack primer .
Being a body man n painter myself one thing i dred with racecars is old work that's been done already and wheelhoo and tire shake will rattle the shit out of everything!
feel bad for you all the money they spend on these cars you would think they would do the metal work better than that you make them look good fixing their mess you are very talented
The gold paint on the black and gold car would look good on this car as a stripe color, I had a 67 Camaro that wad hugger orange with 78-79 trans am color gold stripes.
So, 2 questions… 1-Couldn’t you have panel bonded that strip on each quarter? 2-After stitching every 3/8 or 1/2”, you might have well just completely stitched the entire thing. Why didn’t you? I know you said you didn’t want to burn any fiberglass on the back side, but you didn’t with the stitching you had done.
Lots of comments from people who have never done race car work. I’ve never worked on a race car this nice, but there’s no point in spending 4 times the time and money on something that is going to be put through the ringer every weekend. I’ve done some circle track cars and a very expensive rally car (it was put in the wall it’s first time out), if people saw what I did to them, they’d loose their minds.
Nice work man.. that has to be frustrating always having to fix things correctly. Do you have the capacity to do that fabrication? Kinda asking myself why didn't the customer just bring it to you in the first place!?
The first time that car goes into a big tire shake those Stich welds are gonna pop..Yall would be amazed how bad big tire shake is I have felt like my fillings were gonna fall out.
When guys are comming with a project like this, do you ask them what kind of quality they’re asking for? To make sure you’re not putting in too much work into it. Maybe they’re going to crash it into the fense every weekend, so it’s fine if it cracks in a year or two.
Why would you not panel bond the new radius pieces on and then you could just spot weld the ends and smooth the base part. With some of the panel bond that oozes out of the corn strip
Is it common to have gone to the trouble of reforming the top of the quarters in steel, which was obviously a big job, and then do the sides in fibreglass?
I'm gonna jump the gun here cause I'm less than 5 minutes into the video. First off, I would tell the owner that there are absolutely no guarantees on the longevity of this job because of the way it was delivered to you. Second, I would probably use a tube of panel bond on each side to cover the welds and the seam between the steel and fiberglass quarter section. Then try to rough it in with some long strand fiberglass filler and work my way finer. It's not gonna be ideal regardless. But if this is what you have to start with. You've gotta do what you can
use panel bond on the those stich welds.............just enough to fill the gaps.......don't try to build with it............use to do quick patch panel on used cars/trucks........never showed later.
OK so 24 hours of metal work. How many hours to get it to where all of your primer is on? Guessing labor rate is about 200 an hour. 4800 dollars for the metal work approx. Curious on the hours because If I do this type of work it will be on my own car. Just seeing how many hours a pro has into it. Because it will obviously take me longer.
This job costs I think at least 5k plus to do this job. Maybe 8k to complete with a candy orange. So much time consuming and labor intensive. I see this guy paint this car and paint the front grill. I would give him the name Mr #1 painter 🎨
like you said they havent done a realy good job in the sheetmetal the front part of the widening looks ok as a shape , they had to goo a little extreme as they didnt wanted to raide the doors edge it looks a little cartoony but otherwize ok , where the rear connects intoo the original trunk shape it doesnt look nice , theres a big dip in the line of the car i can understand why they did it that way as it saves metal work on the trunk lid and rearwindow area to get it to fit the raised fender wat they couldve done is raise the outside edge of the bulge so it comes down a little straighter towards the taillight area and feather it in as a taper towards the trunklid , they are probably running a rear spoiler in line with the trunklid and that should hide a lot from the rearview , with the fenders top edge raised the sideview would look good too , the edge might even help direct the airflow over the rear spoiler instead of rolling off the side of the car about quality : i seen a good explanation : the guy wrote tree words on a whiteboard - fast - cheap - good and told us we could choose only two of the words if it needs to be good and cheap it whont be fast if it needs fast and good it whont be cheap if it needs to be fast and cheap it whont be good
I have a dumb question I know I’m not as smart as you when it comes to this after you stitch the metal in could you fiberglass over The stitch area and then do body filler
Obviously you are a great craftsman but you have to be going through dynafile tips like crazy. You're supposed to use the straight part of the belt area where the cork/rubber pad is.
Didn't he just repeat the similar stitching up process that had already been done in the first place? Why not weld it solid all the way across? And could he have TIG welded it instead or MIG weld?
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Well, if no one understands why paint and body work costs as much as it does, all one has to do is watch this video. Super talented you are. And two worlds worth of patience! Thanks for the great presentation!
those of us that are far more skilled tha this kid laugh at how they put that quarter panel on. thats fuckin terrible.
Cheap isn't Good and Good isn't cheap.
🎉🎉 BEST OF LUCK TO YOU AND CREW FTW , HAVE A BLESSED TRIP. 🎉🎉
Pretty amazing transformation, I feel bad for the body work folks that have to save these kinds of train wrecks. You've definitely outdone yourself getting it smoothed out for paint, and it looks like it will hold up well too. I pride myself on my ability to stretch wheel openings and massage quarter panels in steel with minimal bodywork needed before paint. The fiberglass panels are a simple solution but after 30+ years building race cars I prefer to do it all old school with cutting and welding. These big tire cars are violent and they will rattle bondo off a car in no time so I do my best to finish weld everything and leave as smooth a surface as possible.
Thank you. You guys build some badass cars over at CJRC!
He's exactly right with products
Brings back a lot of memories watching my dad thanks for the video
Beautiful repair, nicely executed. I've always hated being the 2nd or 3rd guy to repair what should have been a quick straightforward job.
for what you got dealt that was in my book a full recovery😁🤩
Exactly right! You got your hands full! Love how thin you made that patch! I approve this video from the south! Lol!
I can not for the life of Me understand why anybody of any caliber would question what He does and why,look at His work it is impeccable to say the least.
You do You like nobody else can.🙌✌️
Very impressive video.
Thanks man , great job 👍. It was a sad situation before you got it 😮
I admire your talent and dedication, especially knowing this is a race car previously messed up. I would have a hard time being that caring when you know, as you said, that it will crack anyway. Or maybe wrecked again.
people need to realize its not a restoration , had you used epoxy initially it would of sat for another 5 to 7 days before you could start your filler work & sometimes we dont have that option or time... great job thanks for spending the time to make the video.
Good job fixing that mess, what a nightmare.
God I wish I could afford to have you paint my car! Love your work!
Artist at work
a true craftsman! Amazing work!
Those quarters are hammered.
Just by setting the new piece on top of the quarters made it look better before you welded it on! Great job!!
Everything he commented on holds true to anything you do, cheaper isn't always better
I gotta try that 10% resin added to the plastic filler I never thought of doing that but it seems like a really good hack instead of buying glaze! Of course I'm just learning this now after 98% of my body work is done but I'm going to try this tomorrow. Awesome job man and thank you for teaching me a new trick.👍
Thanks for sharing your process and experience
Wow, amazing work!!! You are truly an artist!!!
Nice as always great explanation of tools products
Excellent work as always and nice tips .thanks for sharing !!
Love the channel you are a master of your craft man. A real joy to watch you work and you also explain things very well.
Great work and video! 🙌🏾🙌🏾👏🏽
This guy is insanely talented!!
What are you kidding me , a monkey can sand mud off.
You are a master of plaster. Awesome repair job!
I want One!! Killer work Eric!
Nice job. 👍
Amazing body work video
Nice job Jim well done
Excellent video and craftsmanship
Great work Curry!
Thx for the time and work you put in to making this video very informative🤘 perfecto.
As a professional welder and Autobody/Painter, I think you went the cheap route. You DEFINITELY could have made that one solid weld. It would have taken longer but that’s hat you do if you take pride in your work. When people mod cars with custom sheet metal work, you make sure it’s one long continuous weld on every panel. If not it cracks like we’re saying. I have done many custom modifications and paint jobs. I wouldn’t have taken the job if I couldn’t have given it my 100%.
I thought it could have been completely welded if you let it cool and went side to side cooling off. But that’s a lot of work just have to get more money!
You the man ❤
Nice 👍👍👍
Well I'm not sure what you're saying about what's underneath that fabricated panel in regards to setting anything ablaze by welding, so... But, using light mig welds in order to finish the radiuses without warping any panels is a must. NO FILLER NEEDED WHEN PANELS ARE PROPERLY BUTT WELDED TOGETHER. As you said, all those panels were improperly attached, and you are 100% right 👍. What a mess!
I think you do incredible work
Not picking at you
I get caping the corner
Why not keep stitching to 💯 % weld you had them close enough
Just my thoughts
I watched the video when you painted this car
You got skills bro
I was painting spot repairs on a semi this week Monday to be exact
I had to stand on the fuel tank I slipped spilled a whole cup of paint
I’m down for the count need knee surgery
You’d think four feet is not far to fall
Yup I fell off the turnip truck lol 😂
I would have panel bonded the fiberglass section to the steel quarter panel using a contoured backing strip behind a butted seam. No overlap seen, plus very strong, water tight bond.
Looks awesome u made it look easy. People dont understand what it takes to make look like new money. 😂
I myself would have passed on that job. I have found that you need to do the type of work you want to do. and there is always a market for what you you want to do. and just pass on the type of bodywork you don't want to do. ... I'm sure it will be fine . good work I know your pain....
Fantastic work un F ing someone elses mistakes
Panel bond the whole underside of the strip and a thin coat on the quarter corner ,it would be like a 2 inch wide water thigh weld 3-4 feet long with no chance of cracking like you talked about
If that was my race car and the body work is all done to perfection. Make a fiber glass mould of the entire body and make fiber glass bodies from that mould. Sell entire bodies and make money off it. Win win....
I don't see how the 2 before you let this go out the door with their names on it like it was. The first guy either didn't know or didn't care about the finished project. For sure the second guy had to see it wasn't finished and well, he must have felt the same way as the first guy. Hopefully you explained all this in detail to your customer, so you don't catch the blame of not if, but when this work starts to crack. By the way, you do some awesome work, looking forward to part 2 to see the finished product.
Great work sorting out the not so good modifications.
I would of felt more confident brush priming thin epoxy into all the welds then using epoxy filler and finsh off with Upol D and then epoxy primer and then polyurethane two pack primer .
get ya some of that filler primer O reillysells pretty good stuff
WOW!
Being a body man n painter myself one thing i dred with racecars is old work that's been done already and wheelhoo and tire shake will rattle the shit out of everything!
Artist
tig braze that edge with silicon bronze keeps the metal cool and its a strong edge its like lead
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
i have because of the extreme humidity we have in the south
feel bad for you all the money they spend on these cars you would think they would do the metal work better than that you make them look good fixing their mess you are very talented
The gold paint on the black and gold car would look good on this car as a stripe color, I had a 67 Camaro that wad hugger orange with 78-79 trans am color gold stripes.
So, 2 questions…
1-Couldn’t you have panel bonded that strip on each quarter?
2-After stitching every 3/8 or 1/2”, you might have well just completely stitched the entire thing. Why didn’t you? I know you said you didn’t want to burn any fiberglass on the back side, but you didn’t with the stitching you had done.
Lots of comments from people who have never done race car work. I’ve never worked on a race car this nice, but there’s no point in spending 4 times the time and money on something that is going to be put through the ringer every weekend. I’ve done some circle track cars and a very expensive rally car (it was put in the wall it’s first time out), if people saw what I did to them, they’d loose their minds.
just a thought- why not use structural adhesive and glue on the new steel that you made to cover the incomplete welds
what part of the south east are you located. would like to get some work done on my truck in the door jam area.
Nice work man.. that has to be frustrating always having to fix things correctly. Do you have the capacity to do that fabrication? Kinda asking myself why didn't the customer just bring it to you in the first place!?
South Carolina?
i see you did body work over bare metal. what is your thoughts about epoxy priming first and then body work??
whats gonna keeo the paint from cracking at your spot welds?
I noticed you high filled it again after you sanded it any reason for this if there wasn’t any cut through
Could you estimate how much additional weight had to be added to the body in order to compensate for the improper modifications?
I see a Volkswagen bug shell back there 😁
The first time that car goes into a big tire shake those Stich welds are gonna pop..Yall would be amazed how bad big tire shake is I have felt like my fillings were gonna fall out.
That was my thoughts as well.
Tire shake is going to undo all of that work.
@jasonanderton3050 Yea ot feels like the biggest earthquake ever inside the car we've had hood welds pop little lone Stich welds.
Like it was hit in the ass everytime it leaves anyways! Good luck on the shrinkage!
When guys are comming with a project like this, do you ask them what kind of quality they’re asking for? To make sure you’re not putting in too much work into it. Maybe they’re going to crash it into the fense every weekend, so it’s fine if it cracks in a year or two.
Were are you located ? great work.
Why would you not panel bond the new radius pieces on and then you could just spot weld the ends and smooth the base part. With some of the panel bond that oozes out of the corn strip
Whoever had it before you had no idea what to do. Are the fiberglass quarters legal for NPK?
Is it common to have gone to the trouble of reforming the top of the quarters in steel, which was obviously a big job, and then do the sides in fibreglass?
Why wouldn’t the flange the quarter panel first?
Is that a ppg vibrant orange glo paint color?
Man I love your work! I would love for you paint my Gen 2 Camaro project. Using a new body and chassis for it.
I'm gonna jump the gun here cause I'm less than 5 minutes into the video. First off, I would tell the owner that there are absolutely no guarantees on the longevity of this job because of the way it was delivered to you. Second, I would probably use a tube of panel bond on each side to cover the welds and the seam between the steel and fiberglass quarter section. Then try to rough it in with some long strand fiberglass filler and work my way finer. It's not gonna be ideal regardless. But if this is what you have to start with. You've gotta do what you can
use panel bond on the those stich welds.............just enough to fill the gaps.......don't try to build with it............use to do quick patch panel on used cars/trucks........never showed later.
So your saying don’t stitch weld right before you stitch weld your radius? Why don’t you just keep stitching random patterns until the weld is solid?
did you add additional hardener wgen you added the 10% resin?
No. Stir the resin and filler together, then mix in hardner as you normally would.
In order to understand my gibberish attempt to explain see Fitzee's Fabrications.
You need to be a Micheal Angelo to do great body work
I missed why this guy's spotwelds won't crack even though they are also spotwelds. Is it because they are closer together or because he did them?😅
Where y’all at
why do much bondo? considering this is a racecar, wouldnt you want it light because i feel like doing this would add a lot of weight
OK so 24 hours of metal work. How many hours to get it to where all of your primer is on?
Guessing labor rate is about 200 an hour. 4800 dollars for the metal work approx.
Curious on the hours because If I do this type of work it will be on my own car. Just seeing how many hours a pro has into it. Because it will obviously take me longer.
This job costs I think at least 5k plus to do this job. Maybe 8k to complete with a candy orange. So much time consuming and labor intensive. I see this guy paint this car and paint the front grill. I would give him the name Mr #1 painter 🎨
What’s a SCHP car doing in the background at a shop in Alabama? 😮😊
🤔
Is this a COPO Car body ???
like you said they havent done a realy good job in the sheetmetal the front part of the widening looks ok as a shape , they had to goo a little extreme as they didnt wanted to raide the doors edge it looks a little cartoony but otherwize ok , where the rear connects intoo the original trunk shape it doesnt look nice , theres a big dip in the line of the car
i can understand why they did it that way as it saves metal work on the trunk lid and rearwindow area to get it to fit the raised fender
wat they couldve done is raise the outside edge of the bulge so it comes down a little straighter towards the taillight area and feather it in as a taper towards the trunklid , they are probably running a rear spoiler in line with the trunklid and that should hide a lot from the rearview , with the fenders top edge raised the sideview would look good too , the edge might even help direct the airflow over the rear spoiler instead of rolling off the side of the car
about quality : i seen a good explanation :
the guy wrote tree words on a whiteboard
- fast
- cheap
- good
and told us we could choose only two of the words
if it needs to be good and cheap it whont be fast
if it needs fast and good it whont be cheap
if it needs to be fast and cheap it whont be good
you dont use that metal sealer that can be bondo applied after drying
Love that color......What is it?
Looks similar to my chevelle color. It's sunburst orange, or also called fusion
i have lightly primed before body filler
Is that Joe Satriani playing in this video?
I have a dumb question I know I’m not as smart as you when it comes to this after you stitch the metal in could you fiberglass over The stitch area and then do body filler
Who makes the fiberglass piece ?
Don’t know about the set on the car in this video but mine for my 68 are from Harwood.
Fix it right are do it twice. I USED bronze silicone and tig it without much metal work and never fill a dent do your metal work
Obviously you are a great craftsman but you have to be going through dynafile tips like crazy. You're supposed to use the straight part of the belt area where the cork/rubber pad is.
Didn't he just repeat the similar stitching up process that had already been done in the first place? Why not weld it solid all the way across? And could he have TIG welded it instead or MIG weld?