As a Veteran of Army, and Heavy Construction Equipment Repairer deployed to Iraq in 1991 Desert Storm, I drove some 12,000 miles in my Assigned 5Ton Dump Truck. Mine was also an M-817 Dump with Winch. I had split rim duals in the rear (8 tires and wheels) And I loved it! The oil leak is a problem that I definitely dealt with in the Desert. You have what looks like upgraded axles and Drums, to use the single tire and wheel, at each axle end. I had Ten wheels and tires plus a spare. You can be grateful for having 6 of them! So in my experience having a good gasket (not silicone) keeps the leaks down but more importantly the Bearings on mine kept getting messed up, in my case due to the lack of a 4 cent piece of cork that was missing from the axle tube. We found that out after multiple blow outs. I leave that story out for now! On my truck the bearings were greased with GAA and were kept separate from the differential lube (liquid) by the cork squares that fit in the top groove that was machined on the axle tube. It was about 1/2” square and probably 1/4” thick and was behind the washer that had a tab that would fit in the groove with the nut holding it in place and the bearings with Grease were kept isolated from the gear lube. If they mixed (oil and Grease) it would flush out the grease and make the bearings run wet and then without grease the gear lube was not able to keep things lubricated enough and then it would get hot fast in the Desert. Hope to catch up on your Videos, new Subscriber, and the sound is music to my ears and good vibes to my Soul hearing it! Kudos to you for wearing your hearing protection. I’m not going lie 20 years of experience with the Army has destroyed my hearing, and the practice of ignoring hearing protection has made me regret my ringing ears and my new hearing aids are not available yet but I’m going to call the VA Monday! Last thing, those Butterfly wings on the tailgate can be folded in to the side giving you a vertical rear tailgate! I hated that look with the long sloped rear end.
The 800 series were the best trucks that the Army ever bought. Take good care of it and it will serve you for a long, long time! Good to see that you are wearing hearing protection.
Hey Spencer I agree with our friend Bill Moore on the caps, no one likes having to dig out a nest. Also if your worried at all about the lateral jerking of grain carts just tie you two gussets on the back of the hitch together with a curved spine plate. Build looks solid!
That's a great hitch! I use locktite on all the heavy duty hubs I've serviced to prevent them from backing out and spraying oil. Seems to work pretty good 👍
Yeah with a close to full wagon it’s about all I would want on the truck. The bed is only 10 feet long and sides aren’t crazy tall. It would be cool and a fun project. Maybe next year. Probably could only fit 200-250 bushels.
As well, when drilling holes use a 1/8" drill bit! It is faster, easier, so you accomplish more in a day. With sufficient lubrication. then brake clean it off.
I think you did a good job, but you ask for advise about what could have done better and I think a plate bolted under the old pintle hitch down to the receiver hitch would stop most side to side movement and stiffen it significantly and you could do it in two pieces so that you could unbolt it if necessary. Other than that, I personally would have welded it with stick and 7018 or 8018. But I live on stick.
Stick welding would've definitely been the choice between his options. And welding ever possible inch of contact, double and triple passes in places as well
Much rather wear out those old truck tires than expensive tractor tires.up and down the road. Would have used all grade 8 bolts in the hitch. Might add another bolt for the slide in receiver so it would be a double shear. Love those old GI trucks...
Hey Spence! I hope you don't mind if I take up a little space here, and few moments of your time :) Looking at everything overall, from buying the classic & classy truck itself (and the excavator before it) building this hitch, practicing your welding and cutting skills, learning new terminology, figuring things out how concepts relate and physical parts go together, and so on...the word "awesome" only partly covers it! You're learning in leaps and bounds, getting all kinds of experience which propel you forward into even greater success...a self-reinforcing positive mode of being! I believe others as well are inspired to see you interacting with life and enjoying the whole process! It's natural, and truthful. Genuine, is another way to say it. It is a form of integrity you demonstrate, which speaks to character. It's how you earn your own version of that classic hat you wear! And we get to be witnesses of that. About the hitch itself, I keep looking for some point on the frame, forward of the side plates, so you could run heavy angle from the 5x5 corners, up and forward, adding a great deal to transferring the force on the hitch up into the frame. I hardly see an inch, or maybe two which could be gained. The 'bumper bracket' attached to the frame above the rear spring mount seems in the way. The only tiny place I see is maybe one bolt hole forward of the top of the side plate. Not a lot to be gained. I might have gone with 3/4 for the side plates for overkill, but for a whole sheet, it gets pricey. I might still consider if it's worthwhile to use some heavy angle welded to the outside of the side plates for a sort of "V", both forward and back, with the upper corners of the 5x5 being where the bottom of the "V" basically starts. On the front side, if heavy angle were added both inside and outside of the plate, up to, or a little a little past the bottom of the frame, a cross piece of tube or plate might be added to bridge under the frame, joining both angles, to transfer the force of stopping, and to add 'anti-twisting strength' to the plate, since angle resists distortion from multiple directions. An alternative might have been to use heavy angle where you made the 'splines' of plate, which so far get you side to side strength mostly. A piece of angle could also be added parallel to the 'spines' still, for a simple add, if desired, even though it is all nicely painted already. I think for the cost of welding, I might have also looked for a continuous weld of the spines, but that's minor and not meant as a criticism. I think it's great you had Ron to help you (and your Dad and Grant of course!) I've watched him a bunch, and being a trained engineer, he really can confirm your common sense and add some practical wisdom and theoretical knowledge! I'm less concerned now about liability than I was at first lol But many individuals have welded up whole trailers at home, so maybe I'm too conservative there. I'm glad you talk about something in this video i noticed first in the video Grant put out I watched just before this one of yours: I noticed the cuts you were making in the 5x5, and I re-watched that a couple of times because the lines looked so straight and the job you were doing looked so good. The thought ran through my mind of how recently you even just got the plasma cutter. It was noteworthy skill improvement, and you noted it! lol Not that you were bragging, but it was gratifying to hear that you saw your own improvement too! One thing I would have liked to see is how you reinforced the outer edge of the receiver you made lol But that is very minor! I know this was really long for a comment lol but I enjoyed what you did, and how you shared it; so thank you sincerely, I am much obliged.
Hey CuriousEarthMan I appreciate the comment and enjoyed reading it. Yeah for that "spine" piece wouldn't have hurt to take it all the way down. There is a limit on how much room there is under the frame for the hitch to fit with the rear axle so close. Also the whole idea behind the hitch is to be able to remove it fairly easily, so I am limited on what I can weld to and the bolts seemed the best option. Yeah I thought about just going crazy with welding a lot of stripes of metal on inside and outside of the vertical side plates to help with any twisting. Doing that probably wouldn't have hurt anything and made it a bit stronger. It seems the weakest points in my eyes are the bolts holding the hitch on or the receiver. We are done with harvest now and everything went good with the hitch no issues. You will see more of it in upcoming videos on Grants channel. Yes it was nice to have Ron think through some ideas on how to make it stronger. Again thanks for the comment I appreciate it!
Nice job Spencer, well thought out plane. Nice drone footage , on top of 5 ton box you could make a mount for camorra so you don't have to hold on to it.
Hey. Been watching on and off for years. I put 3 beads on all big stuff like that. The mig is you fill then stick. One bead all the way around mig under 2 beads of stick. You should exceed 500k tensile strength on all big things that you weld. Smaller stuff you just gotta burn in.
How I designed mine was. 1/2" T one steel for verticals 3"X 5" X 1/4" wall. Cut pieces for the inside ends to bolt the horizontal to the vertical. You did do the through as I did, except bolted them the cross to the vertical. I had metal to metal surfaces with ?? 1/2" UMUW ultra high molecular weight like Teflon , but cheaper. The back of the tow hitch, on the top side of it put a cross 1/4" wall flat bar. Just to spread any forces both top and bottom. They did make the holes for bolting horizontal to vertical over size, so I made them into 9/16" holes for that size of bolt, which then does little as the pull is on the verticals as they are bolted to the frame with 3/4" NF Federal allow aka gr 12 bolts. 8 total. 4 and 4. This way I can could lift it in and out. OH one more , use Kopper Kote on all bolts so that they come apart in the far distant future!!!!!! Also the receiver has a hole for a bolt/pin behind the tow hitch so if the front one breaks the rear one will hold it. Fail safe not a disaster .
Hey Spencer you and your brother try holding Portman to the back to the dump truck when you’re putting green carts or draft you were going to everyone’s Coleman
That would be cool! The main reason I got the truck is to haul dirt/brush/rock. The hitch was just a fun project to help with corn harvest and I built it so I can take it off easily. The trucks main purpose is a dump truck.
The couple of things I would have done differently is reuse the heavy duty hitch that came on the truck and not the pickup style hitch receiver, if you needed or wanted to tow pickup style trailers behind the truck then mount it behind or below the heavy duty hitch that came on the truck, never be afraid to over engineer something either, also why don’t you haul grain loads in the dump bed aswell as the wagon, just make a foot high tailgate to empty the truck bed and put some grain chute on tail gate either one in middle or left middle and right side, being ex military truck I’m assuming it only has like a 5-6 speed crash box compared to a 15sp deep reduction would be a good box to put in it
As I only design things. I would have thought that at your time of , 9:40 you would have put your outside support from rear left to front right so at to support the tow from twisting , as the one you showed broke in the middle left of. I hope that makes sense? Where you cut your tube after the build I did mine prior to so that it would could slide into be centered on the verticals. You need a welding table like i have it prevents kneeling , much nicer to work on. Mine bolts together for moving it. Tolerances of these?? a few 0.002 will do!!!!!!!!!!!!! On the hook on the right hand side the it's pin is backwards. It looks like some of your welds are were colder then should be?? As well undercut on the welds. This can cause cracks into the steel. So incorrect weld angle. Your plasma cutter is to droll over. !! That was why I made my ??? 3" receiver female longer so to have an other bolt or pin for safety.
Great job on the hitch, you said you were having problems drilling the holes, Not sure if you used a Mag drill but one is needed for such thick material. You have to rattle can those red doors, Paint them black or green. My opinion the red looks horrible.. Thanks for sharing
14:18 are those grade 8 bolts for mounting the hitch on the truck? I know the video is old and it prolly still holding but eh why not ask. 18:35 I see you figured it out,but not what I'm referencing haha
You gonna burn your clutch out if you keep shifting your gears like that, you need to slip shift that truck, it was made to be driven by men before you were born. Ask you pa what slip shifting is?
What are you got trailer brakes on it so you should be good and I had like 450 pounds of those bolts you used specifically for those military vehicles that you have. I could’ve gave them to you, but I took him to the scrapyard because I didn’t have anybody buy them… it’s crazy when you see something that works out and I happen to stumble of cross your video and I was interested in how you did it but you lowered it just right Be able to pull like that I have a commercial license so I’m used to driving class B vehicles
Hey Spencer, what if you add a triangle brace from the hitch to the frame? Would probably keep that crack @26:00 from opening up more. Lots of leveage with the hitch so far below the frame.
Would fit maybe 100 bushels and fall out the back… I will need to fabricate a end gate for it. Calculated it would hole about 250 bushels max once built. (It’s only 10ft bed) thinking it’s not worth the hassle right now. Maybe in future. It would complete the whole setup.
The truck weighs enough to handle the weight and on gravel I lowered PSI. When slipping the 6x6 kicks in and haven't had any issue with traction. Never really had to load the wagon full. Just enough to by some time for the tractor to get back. Thanks for the comment!
As a Veteran of Army, and Heavy Construction Equipment Repairer deployed to Iraq in 1991 Desert Storm, I drove some 12,000 miles in my Assigned 5Ton Dump Truck. Mine was also an M-817 Dump with Winch. I had split rim duals in the rear (8 tires and wheels) And I loved it!
The oil leak is a problem that I definitely dealt with in the Desert.
You have what looks like upgraded axles and Drums, to use the single tire and wheel, at each axle end. I had Ten wheels and tires plus a spare.
You can be grateful for having 6 of them!
So in my experience having a good gasket (not silicone) keeps the leaks down but more importantly the Bearings on mine kept getting messed up, in my case due to the lack of a 4 cent piece of cork that was missing from the axle tube. We found that out after multiple blow outs. I leave that story out for now!
On my truck the bearings were greased with GAA and were kept separate from the differential lube (liquid) by the cork squares that fit in the top groove that was machined on the axle tube. It was about 1/2” square and probably 1/4” thick and was behind the washer that had a tab that would fit in the groove with the nut holding it in place and the bearings with Grease were kept isolated from the gear lube. If they mixed (oil and Grease) it would flush out the grease and make the bearings run wet and then without grease the gear lube was not able to keep things lubricated enough and then it would get hot fast in the Desert.
Hope to catch up on your Videos, new Subscriber, and the sound is music to my ears and good vibes to my Soul hearing it! Kudos to you for wearing your hearing protection. I’m not going lie 20 years of experience with the Army has destroyed my hearing, and the practice of ignoring hearing protection has made me regret my ringing ears and my new hearing aids are not available yet but I’m going to call the VA Monday!
Last thing, those Butterfly wings on the tailgate can be folded in to the side giving you a vertical rear tailgate!
I hated that look with the long sloped rear end.
The 800 series were the best trucks that the Army ever bought. Take good care of it and it will serve you for a long, long time! Good to see that you are wearing hearing protection.
Hey Spencer I agree with our friend Bill Moore on the caps, no one likes having to dig out a nest. Also if your worried at all about the lateral jerking of grain carts just tie you two gussets on the back of the hitch together with a curved spine plate. Build looks solid!
That's a great hitch! I use locktite on all the heavy duty hubs I've serviced to prevent them from backing out and spraying oil. Seems to work pretty good 👍
Appreciate it! Will do
You have the right vehicle for the job..
Best of two world double wagon one in the back and one trailer
Good work spencer.. he is down getting his hands dirty to get work done good job
Awesome work! Love all the reinforcements.
I am learning watching you. Wish I could help but I have no idea!!
That plasma sure made that job a lot easier. That original hitch looked like it hadn't been greased in awhile
I just stumbled on this channel it's all good subject matter,, I see this channel taking off
Great job building your hitch Spencer
You should always run an engine while power washing it.. saves on it in the long run
Great video Spencer
A spine or 2 across the back of the hitch tube would be a good idea and the top with loads like that
Awesome attachment to the pressure washer
Excellent job Spencer, all that is left is set up the truck bed to haul grain also.
Yeah with a close to full wagon it’s about all I would want on the truck. The bed is only 10 feet long and sides aren’t crazy tall. It would be cool and a fun project. Maybe next year. Probably could only fit 200-250 bushels.
I was thinking the same thing.
As well, when drilling holes use a 1/8" drill bit! It is faster, easier, so you accomplish more in a day.
With sufficient lubrication. then brake clean it off.
I think you did a good job, but you ask for advise about what could have done better and I think a plate bolted under the old pintle hitch down to the receiver hitch would stop most side to side movement and stiffen it significantly and you could do it in two pieces so that you could unbolt it if necessary. Other than that, I personally would have welded it with stick and 7018 or 8018. But I live on stick.
Stick welding would've definitely been the choice between his options. And welding ever possible inch of contact, double and triple passes in places as well
That's great you clean the engine
Much rather wear out those old truck tires than expensive tractor tires.up and down the road. Would have used all grade 8 bolts in the hitch. Might add another bolt for the slide in receiver so it would be a double shear. Love those old GI trucks...
I have owned 2 deuce and a halves and 2 M923A2, just wanna say I think this model of truck you have is a great truck.
Tôi ước mơ có một trang trại như bạn
Hitch turned out great. Now just set the dump bed up with a grain door and haul grain with the truck and wagon both
Sounds like it’s shifting really nice
Good job bra!
Nice cats 🤘
It looks good. I suggest putting caps on the 5" tube to keep out nest building critters.
For sure! Good idea and might help with rust
Hey Spence! I hope you don't mind if I take up a little space here, and few moments of your time :)
Looking at everything overall, from buying the classic & classy truck itself (and the excavator before it) building this hitch, practicing your welding and cutting skills, learning new terminology, figuring things out how concepts relate and physical parts go together, and so on...the word "awesome" only partly covers it! You're learning in leaps and bounds, getting all kinds of experience which propel you forward into even greater success...a self-reinforcing positive mode of being! I believe others as well are inspired to see you interacting with life and enjoying the whole process! It's natural, and truthful. Genuine, is another way to say it. It is a form of integrity you demonstrate, which speaks to character. It's how you earn your own version of that classic hat you wear! And we get to be witnesses of that.
About the hitch itself, I keep looking for some point on the frame, forward of the side plates, so you could run heavy angle from the 5x5 corners, up and forward, adding a great deal to transferring the force on the hitch up into the frame. I hardly see an inch, or maybe two which could be gained. The 'bumper bracket' attached to the frame above the rear spring mount seems in the way. The only tiny place I see is maybe one bolt hole forward of the top of the side plate. Not a lot to be gained. I might have gone with 3/4 for the side plates for overkill, but for a whole sheet, it gets pricey.
I might still consider if it's worthwhile to use some heavy angle welded to the outside of the side plates for a sort of "V", both forward and back, with the upper corners of the 5x5 being where the bottom of the "V" basically starts. On the front side, if heavy angle were added both inside and outside of the plate, up to, or a little a little past the bottom of the frame, a cross piece of tube or plate might be added to bridge under the frame, joining both angles, to transfer the force of stopping, and to add 'anti-twisting strength' to the plate, since angle resists distortion from multiple directions. An alternative might have been to use heavy angle where you made the 'splines' of plate, which so far get you side to side strength mostly. A piece of angle could also be added parallel to the 'spines' still, for a simple add, if desired, even though it is all nicely painted already. I think for the cost of welding, I might have also looked for a continuous weld of the spines, but that's minor and not meant as a criticism.
I think it's great you had Ron to help you (and your Dad and Grant of course!) I've watched him a bunch, and being a trained engineer, he really can confirm your common sense and add some practical wisdom and theoretical knowledge! I'm less concerned now about liability than I was at first lol But many individuals have welded up whole trailers at home, so maybe I'm too conservative there.
I'm glad you talk about something in this video i noticed first in the video Grant put out I watched just before this one of yours: I noticed the cuts you were making in the 5x5, and I re-watched that a couple of times because the lines looked so straight and the job you were doing looked so good. The thought ran through my mind of how recently you even just got the plasma cutter. It was noteworthy skill improvement, and you noted it! lol Not that you were bragging, but it was gratifying to hear that you saw your own improvement too!
One thing I would have liked to see is how you reinforced the outer edge of the receiver you made lol But that is very minor! I know this was really long for a comment lol but I enjoyed what you did, and how you shared it; so thank you sincerely, I am much obliged.
Hey CuriousEarthMan I appreciate the comment and enjoyed reading it. Yeah for that "spine" piece wouldn't have hurt to take it all the way down. There is a limit on how much room there is under the frame for the hitch to fit with the rear axle so close. Also the whole idea behind the hitch is to be able to remove it fairly easily, so I am limited on what I can weld to and the bolts seemed the best option. Yeah I thought about just going crazy with welding a lot of stripes of metal on inside and outside of the vertical side plates to help with any twisting. Doing that probably wouldn't have hurt anything and made it a bit stronger. It seems the weakest points in my eyes are the bolts holding the hitch on or the receiver.
We are done with harvest now and everything went good with the hitch no issues. You will see more of it in upcoming videos on Grants channel. Yes it was nice to have Ron think through some ideas on how to make it stronger. Again thanks for the comment I appreciate it!
Nice job Spencer, well thought out plane. Nice drone footage , on top of 5 ton box you could make a mount for camorra so you don't have to hold on to it.
Hey. Been watching on and off for years. I put 3 beads on all big stuff like that. The mig is you fill then stick. One bead all the way around mig under 2 beads of stick. You should exceed 500k tensile strength on all big things that you weld. Smaller stuff you just gotta burn in.
hitch came out great, I would use grade 8 bolts but everything else looks good
Yup. Got those switched out to grade 8. Thanks!
@@spencerhilbert was very much hoping to find this comment🤣😂
Hello, Spencer, Grant and Ron Hartung
👍👌❤️🇨🇦gr8 work
How I designed mine was.
1/2" T one steel for verticals
3"X 5" X 1/4" wall.
Cut pieces for the inside ends to bolt the horizontal to the vertical.
You did do the through as I did, except bolted them the cross to the vertical. I had metal to metal surfaces with ?? 1/2" UMUW ultra high molecular weight like Teflon , but cheaper.
The back of the tow hitch, on the top side of it put a cross 1/4" wall flat bar. Just to spread any forces both top and bottom.
They did make the holes for bolting horizontal to vertical over size, so I made them into 9/16" holes for that size of bolt, which then does little as the pull is on the verticals as they are bolted to the frame with 3/4" NF Federal allow aka gr 12 bolts. 8 total. 4 and 4.
This way I can could lift it in and out.
OH one more , use Kopper Kote on all bolts so that they come apart in the far distant future!!!!!!
Also the receiver has a hole for a bolt/pin behind the tow hitch so if the front one breaks the rear one will hold it. Fail safe not a disaster .
Cool truck and really nice job on the hitch.
Nice work
Nice job on the hitch
Hey Spencer you and your brother try holding Portman to the back to the dump truck when you’re putting green carts or draft you were going to everyone’s Coleman
Enjoyed video LIKE the black with green star. It is but it aint. OLD ARMY 67/68
Looks super beef, light work for it
You need you to make it so you can haul corn in the bed of that truck. Just a suggestion. Great job on that hitch
That would be cool! The main reason I got the truck is to haul dirt/brush/rock. The hitch was just a fun project to help with corn harvest and I built it so I can take it off easily. The trucks main purpose is a dump truck.
Good job bud I love you
Good job big cat!!
can never have too much gusseting. peace
The couple of things I would have done differently is reuse the heavy duty hitch that came on the truck and not the pickup style hitch receiver, if you needed or wanted to tow pickup style trailers behind the truck then mount it behind or below the heavy duty hitch that came on the truck, never be afraid to over engineer something either, also why don’t you haul grain loads in the dump bed aswell as the wagon, just make a foot high tailgate to empty the truck bed and put some grain chute on tail gate either one in middle or left middle and right side, being ex military truck I’m assuming it only has like a 5-6 speed crash box compared to a 15sp deep reduction would be a good box to put in it
Great job and a smart truck Best Wishes from ENGLAND UK
As I only design things. I would have thought that at your time of , 9:40 you would have put your outside support from rear left to front right so at to support the tow from twisting , as the one you showed broke in the middle left of. I hope that makes sense?
Where you cut your tube after the build I did mine prior to so that it would could slide into be centered on the verticals.
You need a welding table like i have it prevents kneeling , much nicer to work on. Mine bolts together for moving it. Tolerances of these?? a few 0.002 will do!!!!!!!!!!!!!
On the hook on the right hand side the it's pin is backwards.
It looks like some of your welds are were colder then should be?? As well undercut on the welds. This can cause cracks into the steel. So incorrect weld angle.
Your plasma cutter is to droll over. !!
That was why I made my ??? 3" receiver female longer so to have an other bolt or pin for safety.
Curious why didn't you put grain in the truck dump box?
What about supports going from frame cross memer down to the square tube?
Great job on the hitch, you said you were having problems drilling the holes, Not sure if you used a Mag drill but one is needed for such thick material. You have to rattle can those red doors, Paint them black or green. My opinion the red looks horrible.. Thanks for sharing
Yeah I just used a handheld drill I don’t have a mag drill. The doors were off of a fire truck that the previous owner put on. Thanks for the comment!
14:18 are those grade 8 bolts for mounting the hitch on the truck? I know the video is old and it prolly still holding but eh why not ask. 18:35 I see you figured it out,but not what I'm referencing haha
your biggest weakpoint now are probably the bolts... :) Did you get the strongest ones you could get?
a weld 2 inch long each side would keep the bolts tight
Well when I saw it # 1 IT LOOKED LIKE OLD GREEN painted. still thats cool. jus saying
Shift at high RPM save your clutch
You gonna burn your clutch out if you keep shifting your gears like that, you need to slip shift that truck, it was made to be driven by men before you were born. Ask you pa what slip shifting is?
12:00 I was gonna say that hitch was going be so heavy LMAO.
What are you got trailer brakes on it so you should be good and I had like 450 pounds of those bolts you used specifically for those military vehicles that you have. I could’ve gave them to you, but I took him to the scrapyard because I didn’t have anybody buy them… it’s crazy when you see something that works out and I happen to stumble of cross your video and I was interested in how you did it but you lowered it just right Be able to pull like that I have a commercial license so I’m used to driving class B vehicles
All that blurring out of the tag on the truck only to expose it at the end. 🙂
I just bought at M35A2 I’ll take one setup please lol
Hey Spencer, what if you add a triangle brace from the hitch to the frame? Would probably keep that crack @26:00 from opening up more. Lots of leveage with the hitch so far below the frame.
Looks great! I'd gladly pay you to fab one like it for the back of my KW truck tractor. Please advise.
Why didn't you load corn into the bed of the 6x6?
Would fit maybe 100 bushels and fall out the back… I will need to fabricate a end gate for it. Calculated it would hole about 250 bushels max once built. (It’s only 10ft bed) thinking it’s not worth the hassle right now. Maybe in future. It would complete the whole setup.
Do not forget to blur the truck’s plate at the end of the video too mate! haha
MGX984
Those bolts are going to sheer off.
Wow, this is a monster, what truck is it?
What did the leak in the engine compartment turn out to be?
Haven't looked to close yet. Next oil change I will try a oil leak stop additive. Probably wont do anything... but worth a try.
@@spencerhilbert Could also be the power steering. That's where my M813 is leaking.
Don’t you need to add the thing where you connect the lights so your hazard’s work and your signals work
Load the truck more weight to control the wagon
The truck weighs enough to handle the weight and on gravel I lowered PSI. When slipping the 6x6 kicks in and haven't had any issue with traction. Never really had to load the wagon full. Just enough to by some time for the tractor to get back. Thanks for the comment!
24:59 you ain’t blur the plate out but you did on the rest of the video