Bart, Phenomenal design and results. Thanks for sharing. Your QA Inspector really understands that the function of every lever needs to be verified in every possible order 👍😎👍
Nice, it looked so nice when you turned it while mounting. It's a thing of beauty. I usually just keep my compound at 30 degrees, so I never run into the tailstock. That way I get to take finer cuts.
Thanks. And yes, setting it at 30 degree is a good alternative and also more solid. Still the sol8d toolpost gives a lot more room to work. I do need to add a DRO for accurate work on the Z axis.
Looks very nice! I had the same problem with my Weiler E30 and the solid toolpost has successfully addressed that. Love the perfect fit between the toolpost and the multifix core. Congrats!
Hi Bart, nice you are back 🙂 This was a really nice job, you did super well. I especilly liked the control, and the slolw-mo. keep safe, and well, and keep up the good work 🙂 kind regards from Denmark
Hi Bart, hope you are well. Super new post is a work of art, simple and efficient. I really liked the slo-mo footage, a welcome departure from time-lapse. Your young apprentice approves so that's all that matters. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe and keep up the good work. PS. Happy New Year to you and yours.
Nice! I've been thinking of doing the same on my Hembrug DR1, at least until I've fixed the tapered gib for the top slide. It is all the way in now and still there is about .5mm of play on the dovetail...
Mooi. Ik heb ook zo'n 102-VM, 4.000 toeren ex Philips Machinefabrieken. Die heeft wel een originele 4-voudig indexerende beitelhouder die ik zeker zal behouden. De Multifix is een enorm compromis qua stabiliteit juist waar je het nodig hebt. Optimaal is dat de krachten op de beitel direct via het gietijzer zijn weg vinden naar het machineframe. Ook is de snelheid van werken met Multifix minder als je repeterend werk doet. Chronova Engineering heeft daar een video over gemaakt. Ik zie zeker meerwaarde in het elimineren van de beitelslede want het is een rotding qua stabiliteit. De demonstratie van Rob Renzetti is erg overtuigend. Mijn ervaring is dat het alleen lekker werkt als je een vaste aanslag op de langsslede hebt, bij voorkeur in revolveruitvoering. Dit zit standaard op mijn Gema LZ 160, daardoor kun je heel goed korte lengtes handvoeden met het handwiel van de langsslede, vergt wel enige gewenning. Nog mooier is een afslag van de automatische voeding (zit ook op de Gema), dan kun je op vol vermogen vespanen en wat verder weg van de bank gaan staan, dit komt de veiligheid ten goede. Alleen moet ik nog eens kijken of dit te combineren is met de vaste aanslag voor langsslede-handvoeding.
It seems that these solid toolposts are all the rage, i don't have to deal with these issues, because 2 of my 4 lathes are CNC, 1 Lathe is sort-of-converted to a Toolgrinder, and the forth one only has a toolrest (Boley Watchmakers Lathe) But.. this is a nice piece of work!.. It looks factory made, like it came with the machine..
Thank you Jan, that's a nice compliment. Yes if you have CNC you don't have this problem. But on a manual machine I makes sense. I wish I made it years ago. But I do find it important to be able to switch back to the original compound slide in a few minutes. So I wouldn't make it solid and permanent mounted on the cross slide.
Great work. Love your videos. I own a 102vm myself and would love to make a solid tool post for it. Any chance you have a drawing or cad file i can use as reference?
Similar toolpost height problems. But owner of a 102 and not of a 102VM. I ve sold the Multifix A QCTP for a Tripan one. I had to machine a few tool holders to align tips on spindle axis. Lucky guy you are : a 102VM and a Schaublin 13!
Nicely done, Bart! What material did you use to make the plinth? Switching back to the old compound will probably be a rare event, once you're used to the solid post, especially with the Multi Swiss tool post. That mod makes a very noticeable increase in rigidity.
Nice video and i have the same issues on my Schaublin 125c lathe. Im gonna take a look if i can do a similar toolpost that fit my lathe . The only downside is that when threading the parallel method I can’t use the compound to move for every infeed. Bart do you maybe have any parts for a Schaublin 13 mill vertical head that you are willing to sell ?… Keep on sharing this great videos 😀
I would definitely make one for the 125. But make it easy to change between compound slide and solid toolpost. I can do it under 2 min. So if you do need for taper turning or large threads then you can change it back. About the 13, unfortunately no parts for sale for the vertical head.
Thank you for your video. With due respect I disagree with Robin somewhat on these solid tool posts. This is a tool room lathe, it is designed to work within specific parameters and Schaublin knows very well how to design lathes. When we change out the standard compound tool post for the solid tool post we limit the versatility of the lathe. Let's understand tool room lathes are not CNC lathes, CNC lathes do work better with solid tool posts because they have different parameters and they are controlled by computers that enable them to machine any angle required. Are we saying that the original tool post can't make as quality a cut as the solid tool post? I think we can make equal cuts with either and I'm sure Schaublin would never let a lathe leave its factory that made inferior cuts. I will say that I have personally made a solid tool post and I do use it but I still use my standard tool post for certain machining operations, especially tapers which do not work well with solid tool posts. Older lathes do not work as well with modern carbide and ceramic tooling because they involve higher tool pressures and speeds. Also, it is not always possible to take finer cuts with modern tooling without having several different carbides for different cut depths and materials which small shops aren't always capable of affording. With that said older lathes work very well with tangential cutters because they require less pressure, in fact older lathes work better with HSS cutters overall. With carbides there is a benefit to the solid tool post but the benefit is from speed not overall cut quality. The other problem is the material the solid tool post is made from. Steel has a tendency to add resonance to cutting. I did verify this making both a steel and cast iron tool post. On heavy cuts the steel gave out a high pitch whine. If someone is hitting the tail stock with the compound then they are not using the lathe correctly.
Not sure about material. Something I had laying around in the shop for a few years. Steel with some chrome. Maybe 4140. Cast iron may be a bit better for vibrations but on this lathe the difference would be minimal.
Good question that I didn't really explain. It's an idea from Stefan GTWR. It is used for mounting an indicator (with 30mm clamp and no magnetic base) or camera.
Nice work but wouldn't getting a Tripan quick change holder have been easier :) The 135 has a similar issue with Multifix B as your machine does with Multifix A) I switched to Tripan on that machine and it just fits so much better (even with the reduced height top-slide B is too big). I am not sure about the tailstock interference as it hasn't been a problem.
Hi Luke, yes good point on the Tripan. I have used one at work and it's a good fit. But I like bit oversized multifix. And I have a lot of tooling for it. But more stability and more room was the main reason why I made it. Now I made one I wish I've done it years ago.
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 hopefully I don't come across as critical, I am just teasing a bit. If you are happy with the set up that is great. The access and interference issues are interesting, I don't have a VM but haven't had any problems like those with my 102. I guess the simple carriage allows much more adjustment than the screw cutting version. The 135 has no issues like those that I have found while running the Tripan. It would be interesting to see how much of the access problems would be helped with Tripan on the 102vm.
Is there a reason you're not using 12x12 mm tool holders, which would allow you to use the t-slots? In my experience, they're rigid enough for these small lathes. I understand the need for sharing tools with more than one machine, but in reality, tool holders / inserts in 12x12 size are quite affordable and appropriate for the machine.
Yes good point. 12mm would be enough for many cases. But I already have some 16mm tooling. Also parting blades and some boring bars didn't fit the original setup. And 16mm is more stable with some odd setups with longer stick out. But overall better stability is a more important reason why I changed it. I could grind of some 16mm tools and make them fit.
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 yep, grinding is an option. I had a few 16mm laying around, but instead of grinding I bought a bigger lathe 😁 . Problem solved
Thanks. Yes my son taking over the shop is a (bit scary) reality. Hope he does, but doesn't destroy these machines... maybe get a very small dedicated cheap lathe from him whe then time is there.
LOL. Thanks. Confused if your talking about my toolpost or my son... but he already has a few dent's so I think my toolpost 😅. But not to worry, dents will follow. I don't mind if they are my own 😁.
From my perspective. It's not a bigger lathe but a better lathe. And I can change the question to , I don't not know why you don't want to make a small lathe more stable. Now I made one I wish I would have done it years ago. Stability is not only bigger chips. Chip control, better surface finish, easier to make very light cuts, much more stable when parting off, etc. Adding 2 axis dro also makes more efficient. And I can change it back in 2 min as I have shown in the video. I really don't see any negative about it now I've used it. And I do have the Okuma LS as a bigger lathe that can do 8mm doc.
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Enjoyed the making of the solid tool post. Liked and Subscribed.👍👍
Bart, Phenomenal design and results. Thanks for sharing. Your QA Inspector really understands that the function of every lever needs to be verified in every possible order 👍😎👍
Thanks! Yes this quality control guy is great 😁
Nice, it looked so nice when you turned it while mounting. It's a thing of beauty. I usually just keep my compound at 30 degrees, so I never run into the tailstock. That way I get to take finer cuts.
Thanks. And yes, setting it at 30 degree is a good alternative and also more solid. Still the sol8d toolpost gives a lot more room to work. I do need to add a DRO for accurate work on the Z axis.
Fantastic project well made. The quality inspection stands out the most. So cute!!
Thanks. It helps that this quality inspector is not to critical. But he looks at every step I take 😁
Great work Bart, good to see you back making videos and training up your son.
Thanks! Yes my son loves the shop and all the handles he can turn. I have to be careful not to show the power switch 😁
Haha, the final inspection at the end was a beautiful thing ! 😊
Thanks!
Looks very nice! I had the same problem with my Weiler E30 and the solid toolpost has successfully addressed that.
Love the perfect fit between the toolpost and the multifix core.
Congrats!
Thanks, it definitely works great. Wish I have made one sooner.
A very handsome quality inspector!
The ending i.e. "the approver": that's what it's all about. The very purpose of life, IMO.
Happy New year to the whole family, Bart!
Thank you. Have a great 2024!
Hi Bart, nice you are back 🙂 This was a really nice job, you did super well. I especilly liked the control, and the slolw-mo. keep safe, and well, and keep up the good work 🙂 kind regards from Denmark
Thank you Hendrik, that's nice to hear. Have a great 2024!
Great idea! Fantastic job
Looks amazing. Thanks for the video.
Thanks
Excellent job, Bart. And aesthetically very pleasant. TOP.
Thanks!
Very nice work! I am in the process of doing the same kind of work on my lathe and your video has given me quite a few good ideas. Thank you.
Beautiful work!
Thank you 👍
Absolutely beautiful. Happy New Year
Thank you. Have a great 2024!
Nice and solid. A beautiful piece. Nice work!
Thanks!
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 I see "STAAL" scribed on one of your toolholders. Which country are you from?
@@improviseddiy Netherlands 🇳🇱
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 Makes sense. It is close to Afrikaans in South Africa.
Hi Bart, hope you are well. Super new post is a work of art, simple and efficient. I really liked the slo-mo footage, a welcome departure from time-lapse. Your young apprentice approves so that's all that matters. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe and keep up the good work. PS. Happy New Year to you and yours.
Thanks! Hope you have a great 2024 as well. Stay safe and see you next time 👍
Great build!!
Thank you!
A very nice job top quality and I think your QC inspector is correct in his thinking.
Thanks!
Very nice work!! That toolpost turned out beautiful. Your son is a cutie!
Thanks!
Hi Bart, really nice job. It looks like an original Schaublin part 🙂
Thanks, that's a nice compliment
Hé Bart, lang niet gezien. Mooi draaibankje.
Sehr Gut!
Nice! I've been thinking of doing the same on my Hembrug DR1, at least until I've fixed the tapered gib for the top slide. It is all the way in now and still there is about .5mm of play on the dovetail...
Yes it's worth to fix / make both
Mooi. Ik heb ook zo'n 102-VM, 4.000 toeren ex Philips Machinefabrieken. Die heeft wel een originele 4-voudig indexerende beitelhouder die ik zeker zal behouden.
De Multifix is een enorm compromis qua stabiliteit juist waar je het nodig hebt. Optimaal is dat de krachten op de beitel direct via het gietijzer zijn weg vinden naar het machineframe. Ook is de snelheid van werken met Multifix minder als je repeterend werk doet. Chronova Engineering heeft daar een video over gemaakt.
Ik zie zeker meerwaarde in het elimineren van de beitelslede want het is een rotding qua stabiliteit. De demonstratie van Rob Renzetti is erg overtuigend. Mijn ervaring is dat het alleen lekker werkt als je een vaste aanslag op de langsslede hebt, bij voorkeur in revolveruitvoering. Dit zit standaard op mijn Gema LZ 160, daardoor kun je heel goed korte lengtes handvoeden met het handwiel van de langsslede, vergt wel enige gewenning. Nog mooier is een afslag van de automatische voeding (zit ook op de Gema), dan kun je op vol vermogen vespanen en wat verder weg van de bank gaan staan, dit komt de veiligheid ten goede. Alleen moet ik nog eens kijken of dit te combineren is met de vaste aanslag voor langsslede-handvoeding.
Goed tips en argumenten 👍
I did someting similar on my USSR lathe. It works great and I even won some space to put my camera :)
Nice! Yes the extra room is also very nice. And I need to make a better camera setup because I always struggle with it.
I would be glad if i had at my time carbide inserts. I had to use hss on this lathe when i was a apprentice.
Yes carbide makes it a bit easier but HSS also works great on small machines.
Try rotating the toolpost 180° to get the cutting tool more central over the cross slide. I bet you'll find it even more rigid.
Thanks. Will give it a try
It seems that these solid toolposts are all the rage, i don't have to deal with these issues, because 2 of my 4 lathes are CNC, 1 Lathe is sort-of-converted to a Toolgrinder, and the forth one only has a toolrest (Boley Watchmakers Lathe)
But.. this is a nice piece of work!.. It looks factory made, like it came with the machine..
Thank you Jan, that's a nice compliment. Yes if you have CNC you don't have this problem. But on a manual machine I makes sense. I wish I made it years ago. But I do find it important to be able to switch back to the original compound slide in a few minutes. So I wouldn't make it solid and permanent mounted on the cross slide.
Great work. Love your videos.
I own a 102vm myself and would love to make a solid tool post for it.
Any chance you have a drawing or cad file i can use as reference?
Similar toolpost height problems. But owner of a 102 and not of a 102VM. I ve sold the Multifix A QCTP for a Tripan one. I had to machine a few tool holders to align tips on spindle axis. Lucky guy you are : a 102VM and a Schaublin 13!
Tripan is also very nice. And yes, bit lucky to have the 102vm and 13 mill as a duo together
Quality work again, Bart. I'm guessing that tool post is stainless steel?
Thanks Mark. Steel is unknown but not stainless steel. It do think it had so chrome on it because it's harder to rust then regular steel.
@@bartharkemametalworks2299Probably 4140.
Nicely done, Bart! What material did you use to make the plinth? Switching back to the old compound will probably be a rare event, once you're used to the solid post, especially with the Multi Swiss tool post. That mod makes a very noticeable increase in rigidity.
Thanks. Yes it's much more rigid. Material is unknown but it's steel with a some chrome in it. Doesn't rust as fast as regular steel.
Turned out great whatever it is!👍@@bartharkemametalworks2299
Nice video and i have the same issues on my Schaublin 125c lathe.
Im gonna take a look if i can do a similar toolpost that fit my lathe .
The only downside is that when threading the parallel method I can’t use the compound to move for every infeed.
Bart do you maybe have any parts for a Schaublin 13 mill vertical head that you are willing to sell ?…
Keep on sharing this great videos 😀
I would definitely make one for the 125. But make it easy to change between compound slide and solid toolpost. I can do it under 2 min. So if you do need for taper turning or large threads then you can change it back. About the 13, unfortunately no parts for sale for the vertical head.
Thank you for your video.
With due respect I disagree with Robin somewhat on these solid tool posts. This is a tool room lathe, it is designed to work within specific parameters and Schaublin knows very well how to design lathes. When we change out the standard compound tool post for the solid tool post we limit the versatility of the lathe. Let's understand tool room lathes are not CNC lathes, CNC lathes do work better with solid tool posts because they have different parameters and they are controlled by computers that enable them to machine any angle required. Are we saying that the original tool post can't make as quality a cut as the solid tool post? I think we can make equal cuts with either and I'm sure Schaublin would never let a lathe leave its factory that made inferior cuts.
I will say that I have personally made a solid tool post and I do use it but I still use my standard tool post for certain machining operations, especially tapers which do not work well with solid tool posts. Older lathes do not work as well with modern carbide and ceramic tooling because they involve higher tool pressures and speeds. Also, it is not always possible to take finer cuts with modern tooling without having several different carbides for different cut depths and materials which small shops aren't always capable of affording. With that said older lathes work very well with tangential cutters because they require less pressure, in fact older lathes work better with HSS cutters overall. With carbides there is a benefit to the solid tool post but the benefit is from speed not overall cut quality.
The other problem is the material the solid tool post is made from. Steel has a tendency to add resonance to cutting. I did verify this making both a steel and cast iron tool post. On heavy cuts the steel gave out a high pitch whine.
If someone is hitting the tail stock with the compound then they are not using the lathe correctly.
What material did you use ? Is it good at vibration dampening, compared to cast iron ? Did you consider using cast iron ?
Not sure about material. Something I had laying around in the shop for a few years. Steel with some chrome. Maybe 4140. Cast iron may be a bit better for vibrations but on this lathe the difference would be minimal.
Great work! I've never seen this type of QCTP before, with a round side and splines. Is that system better than the common dovetail type?
It's common, especialy in Europe. Its called Multifix. The benefit is that you can fix the tool at different angles on the spline.
Question, why did you make the center tool post hold down bolt so tall? I would have made it a least 30mm shorter.
Good question that I didn't really explain. It's an idea from Stefan GTWR. It is used for mounting an indicator (with 30mm clamp and no magnetic base) or camera.
Nice work but wouldn't getting a Tripan quick change holder have been easier :) The 135 has a similar issue with Multifix B as your machine does with Multifix A) I switched to Tripan on that machine and it just fits so much better (even with the reduced height top-slide B is too big). I am not sure about the tailstock interference as it hasn't been a problem.
Hi Luke, yes good point on the Tripan. I have used one at work and it's a good fit. But I like bit oversized multifix. And I have a lot of tooling for it. But more stability and more room was the main reason why I made it. Now I made one I wish I've done it years ago.
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 hopefully I don't come across as critical, I am just teasing a bit. If you are happy with the set up that is great. The access and interference issues are interesting, I don't have a VM but haven't had any problems like those with my 102. I guess the simple carriage allows much more adjustment than the screw cutting version. The 135 has no issues like those that I have found while running the Tripan. It would be interesting to see how much of the access problems would be helped with Tripan on the 102vm.
look at Multifix size As it has a better fit on the 102.
Is there a reason you're not using 12x12 mm tool holders, which would allow you to use the t-slots? In my experience, they're rigid enough for these small lathes. I understand the need for sharing tools with more than one machine, but in reality, tool holders / inserts in 12x12 size are quite affordable and appropriate for the machine.
Yes good point. 12mm would be enough for many cases. But I already have some 16mm tooling. Also parting blades and some boring bars didn't fit the original setup. And 16mm is more stable with some odd setups with longer stick out. But overall better stability is a more important reason why I changed it. I could grind of some 16mm tools and make them fit.
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 yep, grinding is an option. I had a few 16mm laying around, but instead of grinding I bought a bigger lathe 😁 . Problem solved
Nice job Bart!! Looks like you lost your lathe to the little boss. Won't be long until he takes over. Cheers
Thanks. Yes my son taking over the shop is a (bit scary) reality. Hope he does, but doesn't destroy these machines... maybe get a very small dedicated cheap lathe from him whe then time is there.
It looks like it belongs there.
Do I see a budding mechanic? Beautiful job, needs a dent or two so you can stop worrying about perfection.
LOL. Thanks. Confused if your talking about my toolpost or my son... but he already has a few dent's so I think my toolpost 😅. But not to worry, dents will follow. I don't mind if they are my own 😁.
I do not know why you would want to make a small lathe into a big lathe
Simple Go get a bigger lathe
From my perspective. It's not a bigger lathe but a better lathe. And I can change the question to , I don't not know why you don't want to make a small lathe more stable. Now I made one I wish I would have done it years ago. Stability is not only bigger chips. Chip control, better surface finish, easier to make very light cuts, much more stable when parting off, etc. Adding 2 axis dro also makes more efficient. And I can change it back in 2 min as I have shown in the video. I really don't see any negative about it now I've used it. And I do have the Okuma LS as a bigger lathe that can do 8mm doc.