Well Barry… I don’t know if your channel is a blessing or a curse. I’m attempting the exact same work on my GT/CS. You make it look so easy! Your instruction is much appreciated…
Seeing those fenders are just like my 63F100 rear fenders. The previous owner sandwiched a piece of metal over the rust and filled with Bondo(real Bondo- it has that smell and pink dust). I just welded in new metal cause I can't afford new fenders. BTW- good idea on the hole template.
Great video, I was asking about the engine compartment dimensions in my last video and how to make it straight and now I can use your one for reference, thanks.
Great job on the metal working and the right finder had just a little to much filler just how thick should the filler be and I've used red oxide primers an all my body work and I was told to used metal prep after, witch is better to use.can't wait for the next one.
Well, the filler thickness can vary, but it shouldn't be used to create a corner or edge. I plan to strip that fender, and see if I can't fabricate a better patch.
Thanks when you cut out rust how far would go to get good metal, the reason I'm asking is I've got rust in the right quarter panel at the wheel well and I think it's also in the right inner well also, I've got to make both of the replacement pieces just wish there were parts for this.
Great tips, and those inner aprons always seem to need massaging. For some reason some stamping' s are better then others out of the press. I suspect they don't maintain the dyes all that well either.
On my old 67, I had a big problem with rust under the cowl esp around the air chimney (would leak everytime it rained). On the vintage air are you going to incorporate a fresh air intake? I can't remember how that was on the OE AC, but IIRC the vintage air only recirculates the cabin air.
Great videos! I'm just getting ready to weld in some new shock towers and fender apron on 68 Coupe that I'm restoring. I was curious to know what kind of welding setup you're using to do the spot welds and sheet metal repairs.
I know I'm late to the party on this video, but what is your recommendation on the VIN number thats stamped into the DS front fender apron? Can you swap it on to the new piece or is that illegal? Or possibly stamp in your VIN with alpha/numeric punches? I'd really hate to lose that detail.
What would you say is the best replacement parts to buy from. So that way you don't have to do so much work on the car. I know there will always be some manipulation to replacement parts thanks and great videos.
I've had good luck buying from Mustangs Unlimited. If you can get original tooling parts, they're the best. In this case, choices are limited. I looked for different parts from different suppliers, but they all had the same thing.
Quality work and attention to detail shows mate,big pat on the back for you. Poor quality reproduction panels hard work, can't be any harder to make right as make wrong?. For welding I picked up a proper spot welder with a bunch of arms of eBay, makes light work of welding and no clean up after. Wish had bought one years ago! Seems to be permanently on loan to buddies for their cars!
Well Barry… I don’t know if your channel is a blessing or a curse. I’m attempting the exact same work on my GT/CS. You make it look so easy! Your instruction is much appreciated…
Great work, videos are clear and informative. I am learning a lot watching.
Looks great. So much progress. I can never seem to get that much done.
Great work! I always enjoy watching these videos.
Seeing those fenders are just like my 63F100 rear fenders. The previous owner sandwiched a piece of metal over the rust and filled with Bondo(real Bondo- it has that smell and pink dust). I just welded in new metal cause I can't afford new fenders. BTW- good idea on the hole template.
Love watching. I learn how to do a quality job. Thanks
Great video, I was asking about the engine compartment dimensions in my last video and how to make it straight and now I can use your one for reference, thanks.
I worked at the stamping plant where they made the body panels for the 68 mustang. We cranked those out at 500 to 600 an hour.
thanks for a great video I'm looking at fixing a wrecked car very informative
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Awesome as always!
Really enjoy your videos. Was amazed with the poor quality of the parts...
Looks really good
Turned out nice.
Great job on the metal working and the right finder had just a little to much filler just how thick should the filler be and I've used red oxide primers an all my body work and I was told to used metal prep after, witch is better to use.can't wait for the next one.
Well, the filler thickness can vary, but it shouldn't be used to create a corner or edge. I plan to strip that fender, and see if I can't fabricate a better patch.
Thanks when you cut out rust how far would go to get good metal, the reason I'm asking is I've got rust in the right quarter panel at the wheel well and I think it's also in the right inner well also, I've got to make both of the replacement pieces just wish there were parts for this.
Very informative....Thanks!
Great tips, and those inner aprons always seem to need massaging. For some reason some stamping' s are better then others out of the press. I suspect they don't maintain the dyes all that well either.
Agreed. The 65-66 stampings seem to be better.
On my old 67, I had a big problem with rust under the cowl esp around the air chimney (would leak everytime it rained). On the vintage air are you going to incorporate a fresh air intake? I can't remember how that was on the OE AC, but IIRC the vintage air only recirculates the cabin air.
It appears that the vintage air blocks off the passenger side fresh air inlet. The driver's side will still function I believe.
that's good, so you can still get some fresh air with it on. Looking forward to this project, great work.
Great videos! I'm just getting ready to weld in some new shock towers and fender apron on 68 Coupe that I'm restoring. I was curious to know what kind of welding setup you're using to do the spot welds and sheet metal repairs.
Lincoln 140T
i noticed you didn't have holes in that passenger fender apron for the battery tray bolts. did you end up drilling them in later?
The holes were there. The spot welds are around them holding the nut plates.
I know I'm late to the party on this video, but what is your recommendation on the VIN number thats stamped into the DS front fender apron? Can you swap it on to the new piece or is that illegal? Or possibly stamp in your VIN with alpha/numeric punches? I'd really hate to lose that detail.
Cut, fit, weld, blend. It works for me.
What would you say is the best replacement parts to buy from. So that way you don't have to do so much work on the car. I know there will always be some manipulation to replacement parts thanks and great videos.
I've had good luck buying from Mustangs Unlimited. If you can get original tooling parts, they're the best. In this case, choices are limited. I looked for different parts from different suppliers, but they all had the same thing.
any reason why you bought the spectra part, rather than getting one that fit better?
It seems that is all that's available. I went to Mustangs Unlimited, and that's all they carry. The 65 and 66 has more options.
what's the best way to remove the gritty undercoat on the outer side of the aprons?
Good question. I haven't had much luck, I have used putty knives, and even a pressure washer with varied results.
Mustangs unlimited shut down I been with them for 25 years, I hate that they are gone.
Quality work and attention to detail shows mate,big pat on the back for you. Poor quality reproduction panels hard work, can't be any harder to make right as make wrong?. For welding I picked up a proper spot welder with a bunch of arms of eBay, makes light work of welding and no clean up after. Wish had bought one years ago! Seems to be permanently on loan to buddies for their cars!
Summit racing has the correct fenders