Hi Max. It is on my to do list 😉. I have the need for another one of the scissor tables and decided to convert a very old Festool MFT800 to work on the same principle. I don't know when exactly, but in the next few months I hope. Thanks for the comment!
There is a box at the bottom (kickbox) that is levelled out. The carcasses are then installed on top of this box, which means that the weight is transferŕed to the bottom. In the trade the bottom is always between the sides because the sides are on the kickbox. Hope this helps!
I really like your video. Can you tell me what you do if hanging on a wall? How much weight would you feel comfortable hanging. What screws would you use to screw through the back into wall studs. Are you afraid the screws could be pulled through the melamine? I
We have brick and mortar 99%of the time so I anchor with nail in anchors 6mm x 70mm long. I have never had a cupboard fall off a wall. Remember, a large percentage of the force is straight down (shear force) so no problem with head pulling through the backing
Hi there, Alan here in Australia, it appears that you know what you are doing, do you you design your cabinets and then send order to a contractor with a CNC panel saw to batch cut all of you components or cut on your own machinery.
Hi Alan. I do the cutlist and then get it cut and edged from the supplier. It saves a lot of time and hardly cost anything - my equipment also is not designed for large sheet goods (2740mmx1820mm). The most value add comes from the assembly and installation of the units, so that is what I do myself. I can do the cuts to fix mistakes of the cutlist in the workshop, because it does happen. I have found that to do all the cutting and edging yourself, you need expensive equipment and to justify those you need to cut extremely large volume of board to break even. Hope that helps. Louis
Just add another sidepanel and screw iy to the cupboard from the inside. That way you hide the screws. Usually I make that second sidepanel wider so that it it flush with the front of the door.
You have to use dowels and special confirmat screws. For the back, there is a thin fiberboard. There is no point on wasting a chlipboard panel for that.
Ek wou se dit is n Afrikaanse aksent. Baie dankie vir die video, ek moet binnekort begin kaste bou vir my kombuis, ek will ook melamine gebruik maar sal met n 'Festool track saw' moet gebruik om die panele te sny. Ek het iewers gesien dit kan gedoen word sonder om versplintering te kry, is daar n spesiale manier om dit dan te doen? Ek sal baie graag ook die plan vir die 'scissors table' wil sien as dit beskikbaar is. Baie dankie.
Hallo Walter. Hoop dit help. Festool track saw gaan baie goed werk. Maak net seker jy gebruik die regte lem en dat dit skerp is. Ek kan vir jou meer fotos stuur van die tafel, maar ek het nie planne nie. Hy is gebou met die oog 😉. Kontak my op louisdebruyn74@gmail.com dan stuur ek nog fotos. Lekker bly! Louis
I normally use between 40mm and 50mm screws for carcasses - that is between 1.5 and 1.75 inches. The guage is 4mm - around 5/32 inches I think. The only thing to note is that the longer the screw is, the more accurate your drilling will have to be to ensure the end of the screw does not break through the surface. So, if you have confidence in your drilling ability, longer will always be better. Hope that helps. Cheers. Louis
Hi Louis. I have a question for you. When buying those flatpack kits, the sometimes come with those large blunted bolts that slot into a circular "nut" of sorts. Think they are called screw-in dowels. For floor to ceiling cabinets, would those add enough support to be worth the hassle, or not really?
Hi Francois. In my opinion those "knock-down" fittings wotk for flat pack solutions to assist with streamlining the assembly process on site, even for less experienced assemblers or for units where it may need to be disassembled later on. Strength wise they are OK, but the time it takes to get all the holes drilled does not make sense to me because I can easily screw units together in less time. Usually those fittings require production machines to drill the holes fast ans accurate, which I dont have. If you do the cabinets yourself and it is a permanent fixture, I wouldn't bother. But that is my opinion.....
@@LDBWoodworking Thank you. I thought as much, but thought it worth asking. That would involve making jigs and measuring those out for a limited use situation as it is for our kitchen only. Thank you for the advice and great videos. Hoping to see new ones soon! Keep it up!
Hi Alexander. I normally use 3.5mm diameter by 50mm long chopboard screws with a 6mm head for melamine. You can go down to 40mm if you need to but not shorter than that.
Hard to watch what you're doing and read the text scroll at same time. Flash of text that fades in and out is better in my humble opinion. Even better is narration.
Hi Fearsome Warrior. Thank you for this great feedback. I was actually considering narrating, but I have had some complaints about my accent so I opted for the text. I understand your point and will give it a try with the next video. I would appreciate some feedback on that one. Thanks for watching!
Just what a searched for ! And South African 😊 same materials 🎉
sketching whilst explaining the design. simple and great. thanks mate
Thanks for an easy to follow tutorial. I'm going to build my own cabinets.
Fantastic! The aim is to share knowledge. Let me know how it goes. Good luck!
Nice and easy process
Thanks
It is not common to see a 3/4 inch back board cabinet, but i like this. Thanks
Thanks Louis, a great help👌
Please make a video to show how you made the scissor table. It looks great. Thanks!
Hi Max. It is on my to do list 😉. I have the need for another one of the scissor tables and decided to convert a very old Festool MFT800 to work on the same principle. I don't know when exactly, but in the next few months I hope. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the vid don't feel so intimidated about using melamine 👍
Awe ,Lekker thanks!
Thanks man
May i ask why the sides that take the weight are not screwed up from the bottom panel. Seems all the weight is on the 8 or so screws.
There is a box at the bottom (kickbox) that is levelled out. The carcasses are then installed on top of this box, which means that the weight is transferŕed to the bottom. In the trade the bottom is always between the sides because the sides are on the kickbox.
Hope this helps!
I really like your video. Can you tell me what you do if hanging on a wall? How much weight would you feel comfortable hanging. What screws would you use to screw through the back into wall studs. Are you afraid the screws could be pulled through the melamine? I
We have brick and mortar 99%of the time so I anchor with nail in anchors 6mm x 70mm long. I have never had a cupboard fall off a wall. Remember, a large percentage of the force is straight down (shear force) so no problem with head pulling through the backing
Hi, very good movie.
Do you use HDF board as a back of your cabinets?
No, I used 16mm melamine for the backs - the same as the rest of the carcase.
Hi there,
Alan here in Australia, it appears that you know what you are doing, do you you design your cabinets and then send order to a contractor with a CNC panel saw to batch cut all of you components or cut on your own machinery.
Hi Alan. I do the cutlist and then get it cut and edged from the supplier. It saves a lot of time and hardly cost anything - my equipment also is not designed for large sheet goods (2740mmx1820mm). The most value add comes from the assembly and installation of the units, so that is what I do myself. I can do the cuts to fix mistakes of the cutlist in the workshop, because it does happen. I have found that to do all the cutting and edging yourself, you need expensive equipment and to justify those you need to cut extremely large volume of board to break even.
Hope that helps. Louis
Hi how do you hide the screws on the outside of the cabinet on a end that is visible?? Thanks for your time
Just add another sidepanel and screw iy to the cupboard from the inside. That way you hide the screws. Usually I make that second sidepanel wider so that it it flush with the front of the door.
@@LDBWoodworking nice. Thanks for your reply
You have to use dowels and special confirmat screws. For the back, there is a thin fiberboard. There is no point on wasting a chlipboard panel for that.
The point is making it stronger,
Ek wou se dit is n Afrikaanse aksent. Baie dankie vir die video, ek moet binnekort begin kaste bou vir my kombuis, ek will ook melamine gebruik maar sal met n 'Festool track saw' moet gebruik om die panele te sny. Ek het iewers gesien dit kan gedoen word sonder om versplintering te kry, is daar n spesiale manier om dit dan te doen? Ek sal baie graag ook die plan vir die 'scissors table' wil sien as dit beskikbaar is. Baie dankie.
Hallo Walter. Hoop dit help. Festool track saw gaan baie goed werk. Maak net seker jy gebruik die regte lem en dat dit skerp is. Ek kan vir jou meer fotos stuur van die tafel, maar ek het nie planne nie. Hy is gebou met die oog 😉. Kontak my op louisdebruyn74@gmail.com dan stuur ek nog fotos. Lekker bly! Louis
@@LDBWoodworkingBaie Dankie vir die antwoord Louis, sal jou binnekort kontak. Veilig bly daar. Walter.
great video,
what gauge screws did you use
I normally use between 40mm and 50mm screws for carcasses - that is between 1.5 and 1.75 inches. The guage is 4mm - around 5/32 inches I think. The only thing to note is that the longer the screw is, the more accurate your drilling will have to be to ensure the end of the screw does not break through the surface. So, if you have confidence in your drilling ability, longer will always be better. Hope that helps. Cheers. Louis
LDB Woodworking did you also use the same for the drawer boxes
@@juliantaylor7663 yes
Hi Louis. I have a question for you. When buying those flatpack kits, the sometimes come with those large blunted bolts that slot into a circular "nut" of sorts. Think they are called screw-in dowels. For floor to ceiling cabinets, would those add enough support to be worth the hassle, or not really?
Hi Francois. In my opinion those "knock-down" fittings wotk for flat pack solutions to assist with streamlining the assembly process on site, even for less experienced assemblers or for units where it may need to be disassembled later on. Strength wise they are OK, but the time it takes to get all the holes drilled does not make sense to me because I can easily screw units together in less time. Usually those fittings require production machines to drill the holes fast ans accurate, which I dont have. If you do the cabinets yourself and it is a permanent fixture, I wouldn't bother. But that is my opinion.....
@@LDBWoodworking Thank you. I thought as much, but thought it worth asking. That would involve making jigs and measuring those out for a limited use situation as it is for our kitchen only. Thank you for the advice and great videos. Hoping to see new ones soon! Keep it up!
Did u make pilot holes for the screws? And is so what's the drill bit size? Thanks
Which screws are you referring to? The ones holding the carcase together?
@@LDBWoodworking sorry for the late reply. Yes the ones you used to join the boards. And whether or not pilot holes are necessary.
@@ezal2787 Yes, I always drill a pilot hole. Otherwise it is very difficult to keep the screw straight. The size of the pilot drill is 2.8mm.
@@LDBWoodworking thank you. God bless
What size screws do you think work best for melamine board cabinets?
Hi Alexander. I normally use 3.5mm diameter by 50mm long chopboard screws with a 6mm head for melamine. You can go down to 40mm if you need to but not shorter than that.
@@LDBWoodworking thank you for the reply.
What are the sizes of screws?
6mmx50mm for the carcasses
Finally my nagging have produced a video.....;)
You only asked once 😉
Hard to watch what you're doing and read the text scroll at same time. Flash of text that fades in and out is better in my humble opinion. Even better is narration.
Hi Fearsome Warrior. Thank you for this great feedback. I was actually considering narrating, but I have had some complaints about my accent so I opted for the text. I understand your point and will give it a try with the next video. I would appreciate some feedback on that one. Thanks for watching!
@@LDBWoodworking Louis, don't you worry about your accent, it is perfectly cool. Thanks for the great video/tutorial
This time I will use Woodglut plans for this.