Timely video - I also have some white melamine cabinets to make for my laundry room. What do you use to make your shelf pin holes? Line boring machine, drilling template or router jig? I was also confused about your edge banding process. You showed how to apply edge banding using the 3M spray adhesive, but you also used an edge banding machine. Were you just demonstrating that it can be done without a machine for those who don't have one? Thanks and keep the videos coming.
I have a line boring machine. But i also use a kreg line hole jig on some cabinets as needed. The spray glue comes in handy when you forget a part or like the parts i did. They were for a lazy susan corner and i had to stop the banding part way through. Thanks for watching,,👍👍
Hi , great Vidoe i love your little tricks , wish i had have seen you Channel before , i been purchasing all the festool tools , stocking up , getting ready try build my own kitchen , I have the lamello buscuit joiner and the festool 700 , I know the festool too big for this kind of work , but that Ryobi is that a pin nailer or a stapler , looked so easy with that
@@SamJohnson-w1j thanks for watching I appreciate that. Over the years I've tried to simplify things as much as possible sometimes things just get overbuilt. The other thing is the reality is working alone my tools don't get used as hard so having tools like Ryobi work fine. They may not last as long but they'll do me for the rest of my career
You said that you were using a new particle board with a thicker melamine, but you didn't mention the product's name. Can you tell us what it is please?
Hi Jon. The melamine is from crown ply. They are based out of British Columbia with s wearhouse in Toronto as well. Im really happy with the quality of the board other then its a bit thicker than 5/8 so i had to make adjustments to the bottoms and rails
I have a few questions and a couple of comments. Thanks in advance for your response! 1) Does the TiteBond Melamine glue fuse the surfaces together like PVC cement? 2) I can buy 3/4" Melamine for less than 1/2 or 5/8. Is that overkill (too much weight, etc) for the box, doors, drawer fronts, and backs? 3) I was always concerned about screws pulling out of Melamine. Is the trick to use a larger head and coarse threads? 4) I was surprised that finish nails and glue would hold it all together! What size nails were used? 5) You really did a nice job going over the importance of everything being perfectly square. I don't have a jointer and my table saw is rather small, can you share any other tips for helping me achieve square cabinets using Melamine? Im planning to update my small shop and the difference in cost using Melamine is sizable, $27 to $40/sheet. I really appreciate your attention to detail! Thanks!
Sounds like a pretty good deal to me for 3/4-in melamine. I would go with that. I use 5/8 because I got a really good deal on a full lift. The glue that I use I'm not exactly sure how it bonds but it's not the same as PVC. Yes it is important to get all your parts nice and square. It just makes putting everything together that much easier. You can make some jigs and fixtures that work with a router or a skill saw if you had to. If you want to add a little bit more strength to your cabinets you can put some one and 3/4 number 6 screws into it if you pre drill
hi Henry, thank you for the helpful video. What model is the KING jointer? What edgebander model is that.What jointer and edgebander would you recommend for me as I do 4 sets of cabinets per year. Currently have neither tool. Thank you!
Hi Mark just got back into the shop. The jointer is a kc-61fx 6-in helical head joiner. The Edge bander is a cehisa ep-3. Made in Italy. If it was me I would look for a used 6-in helical head jointer and a used Edge bander if it's possible. Just with the amount that you do it's probably not worth buying brand new
was that a regular wood glue? does it hold tight? i was wondering if it would hold itself because the materials is plastic or pvc or whatever the laminate is made of and not the wood itself
@@blisteredoutlaw1993 those are some good questions I'm not sure what other materials would work with it. I've never really tried anything other than using it for melamine. I know for one thing the glue never goes super hard like some other glues. It might be a good temporary option for PVC that's a good thought
Hi You mentioned helical cutter head but it must have carbide cutters because i tried that solution to eliminate chipping on melamine before. Hss knives weren't very happy with me lol. The melamine done a number on them
Hi Jamie yes. It is a carbide helical cutter head. It was an absolute game changer when I finally purchased one. You can cut through particle board and melamine like it's butter. I remember trying to do that with high-speed steel and had the same results as you. If you're getting serious about woodworking it's definitely worth the money
There are two types of laminate blades. One is a triple chip blade the other is in high - ATB 80 tooth blade. There's a company called FS tool that makes this. This is the type of Blade I prefer. It will give you a decent cut on the back side of the melamine in one pass. The other blade is very good but you won't get a good cut on the back side. It works best with a scoring blade
Funny you mentioned that I hope to do a video segment on making a door with a melamine back and a solid wood front in a shaker style and then paint it. One of my suppliers actually makes five piece melamine doors with mitered corners
@@ealdwairi74 I have a video in the works on how to make an MDF door in a shaker style. Hopefully I can get that polished up soon. Thanks for watching 😁
I just use an old paslode 18 gauge nail gun. With inch and a quarter nails. The nails just hold it in place till the glue dries. I'm bigger cabinets I add an extra screw just at the front. And a countersink that in. This way it ensures that if you knock it there's no way for it to come apart
I set the back just a little bit just to give a little extra clearance for plaster blobs and anything on the wall. I just found that anytime I've done cabinets where I put the backs flat I always end up having to do something to it that little bit of relief makes a difference
The upper cabinets get a light rail underneath that is screwed and that supports the lower shelf. The base toe kick sits underneath the base of the lower cabinets and supports that. The shelves I don't go over certain size and I don't ever have a problem with a sag. Once you go over 30 in it becomes a problem
That is a good question. If I'm painting the melamine what I do is put automotive bondo in the hole and then sand it and prime it and paint it. If it's small nail holes for installations I will sometimes use a white seam fill. Or for doing repairs. You can get this from industrial supplies or from your countertop supplier
I generally will take the cost of each cabinet would be one sheet of material whether that is plywood or melamine. Then I calculate how many doors I need whether I'm making them or ordering them I have to factor that in. Then I calculate all my drawers and how much time it takes to make one of those and the amount of material. Then I add in finishing and how much time it takes. Then moldings and panels and the finishing required on that. The last thing is a profit margin. Generally I try to be about 30%
Hi Juan. I use just inch and a quarter 18 gauge nails. If I was using 16 gauge I would probably use an inch and a half. The nails are just there to hold it together while the glue dries. On larger cabinets I will put one screw by the front edge just to make sure that it doesn't get racked or moved. The glue is extremely strong when sits. And it has just a bit of flexibility
Henry, just catching up on your last three videos. As anticipated; the info is solid, delivery outstanding, and the editing .............perfect! keep'em coming ! Narrator: if you're reading this, and have any interest in woodworking, machinery rebuilds, or honest answers - SUBSCRIBE !!!!!!
@@chrisryziuk685 i use 1 1/4 18 gauge nails. 1 1/2 16 gauge would be better because they dont deflect as much as 18 gauge. I just have a few to many boxes of 1 1/4
Hahaha. Yes that's true. I take it for granted sometimes. My back is feeling it though. I'm switching to plywood core for all of my cabinets from now on. Way lighter. Thanks for watching
@@jamesc4362 yes James but you have to use melamine glue. Tight bond has a really good brand. I assemble cabinets with this glue and all I do is glue and nail it.
Any tricks to clean corners on the edge banding? I’m doing a custom built in for a client right now, figured out the planer trick but still ended up needing filler
Timely video - I also have some white melamine cabinets to make for my laundry room. What do you use to make your shelf pin holes? Line boring machine, drilling template or router jig?
I was also confused about your edge banding process. You showed how to apply edge banding using the 3M spray adhesive, but you also used an edge banding machine. Were you just demonstrating that it can be done without a machine for those who don't have one? Thanks and keep the videos coming.
I have a line boring machine. But i also use a kreg line hole jig on some cabinets as needed. The spray glue comes in handy when you forget a part or like the parts i did. They were for a lazy susan corner and i had to stop the banding part way through. Thanks for watching,,👍👍
Hi , great Vidoe i love your little tricks , wish i had have seen you Channel before , i been purchasing all the festool tools , stocking up , getting ready try build my own kitchen , I have the lamello buscuit joiner and the festool 700 , I know the festool too big for this kind of work , but that Ryobi is that a pin nailer or a stapler , looked so easy with that
@@SamJohnson-w1j thanks for watching I appreciate that. Over the years I've tried to simplify things as much as possible sometimes things just get overbuilt. The other thing is the reality is working alone my tools don't get used as hard so having tools like Ryobi work fine. They may not last as long but they'll do me for the rest of my career
You said that you were using a new particle board with a thicker melamine, but you didn't mention the product's name. Can you tell us what it is please?
Hi Jon. The melamine is from crown ply. They are based out of British Columbia with s wearhouse in Toronto as well. Im really happy with the quality of the board other then its a bit thicker than 5/8 so i had to make adjustments to the bottoms and rails
I have a few questions and a couple of comments. Thanks in advance for your response! 1) Does the TiteBond Melamine glue fuse the surfaces together like PVC cement? 2) I can buy 3/4" Melamine for less than 1/2 or 5/8. Is that overkill (too much weight, etc) for the box, doors, drawer fronts, and backs? 3) I was always concerned about screws pulling out of Melamine. Is the trick to use a larger head and coarse threads? 4) I was surprised that finish nails and glue would hold it all together! What size nails were used? 5) You really did a nice job going over the importance of everything being perfectly square. I don't have a jointer and my table saw is rather small, can you share any other tips for helping me achieve square cabinets using Melamine? Im planning to update my small shop and the difference in cost using Melamine is sizable, $27 to $40/sheet. I really appreciate your attention to detail! Thanks!
Sounds like a pretty good deal to me for 3/4-in melamine. I would go with that. I use 5/8 because I got a really good deal on a full lift. The glue that I use I'm not exactly sure how it bonds but it's not the same as PVC. Yes it is important to get all your parts nice and square. It just makes putting everything together that much easier. You can make some jigs and fixtures that work with a router or a skill saw if you had to. If you want to add a little bit more strength to your cabinets you can put some one and 3/4 number 6 screws into it if you pre drill
hi Henry, thank you for the helpful video. What model is the KING jointer? What edgebander model is that.What jointer and edgebander would you recommend for me as I do 4 sets of cabinets per year. Currently have neither tool. Thank you!
Hi Mark just got back into the shop. The jointer is a kc-61fx 6-in helical head joiner. The Edge bander is a cehisa ep-3. Made in Italy. If it was me I would look for a used 6-in helical head jointer and a used Edge bander if it's possible. Just with the amount that you do it's probably not worth buying brand new
was that a regular wood glue? does it hold tight? i was wondering if it would hold itself because the materials is plastic or pvc or whatever the laminate is made of and not the wood itself
@@blisteredoutlaw1993 those are some good questions I'm not sure what other materials would work with it. I've never really tried anything other than using it for melamine. I know for one thing the glue never goes super hard like some other glues. It might be a good temporary option for PVC that's a good thought
Hi
You mentioned helical cutter head but it must have carbide cutters because i tried that solution to eliminate chipping on melamine before. Hss knives weren't very happy with me lol. The melamine done a number on them
Hi Jamie yes. It is a carbide helical cutter head. It was an absolute game changer when I finally purchased one. You can cut through particle board and melamine like it's butter. I remember trying to do that with high-speed steel and had the same results as you. If you're getting serious about woodworking it's definitely worth the money
Can you please let me know which blade to use for cutting melamine without chips on a circular saw or a portable table saw
There are two types of laminate blades. One is a triple chip blade the other is in high - ATB 80 tooth blade. There's a company called FS tool that makes this. This is the type of Blade I prefer. It will give you a decent cut on the back side of the melamine in one pass. The other blade is very good but you won't get a good cut on the back side. It works best with a scoring blade
Is there a way to make shaker style doors using melamine?
Funny you mentioned that I hope to do a video segment on making a door with a melamine back and a solid wood front in a shaker style and then paint it. One of my suppliers actually makes five piece melamine doors with mitered corners
@@henrymostert2125 I look forward to it.
Can you show how to make doors for these cabinets!?
@@ealdwairi74 I have a video in the works on how to make an MDF door in a shaker style. Hopefully I can get that polished up soon. Thanks for watching 😁
👍
Did I miss something? Why the black edge banding?
The island is a different color than the rest of the kitchen. It's a gray stain on White oak
What nail gun are you using there?
I just use an old paslode 18 gauge nail gun. With inch and a quarter nails. The nails just hold it in place till the glue dries. I'm bigger cabinets I add an extra screw just at the front. And a countersink that in. This way it ensures that if you knock it there's no way for it to come apart
Why do you set the back in 1/16? thanks
I set the back just a little bit just to give a little extra clearance for plaster blobs and anything on the wall. I just found that anytime I've done cabinets where I put the backs flat I always end up having to do something to it that little bit of relief makes a difference
How do you protect your cabinets from particle board sag that happens as years go by?
The upper cabinets get a light rail underneath that is screwed and that supports the lower shelf. The base toe kick sits underneath the base of the lower cabinets and supports that. The shelves I don't go over certain size and I don't ever have a problem with a sag. Once you go over 30 in it becomes a problem
What sealant and how do you fill nail holes in melamine?
That is a good question. If I'm painting the melamine what I do is put automotive bondo in the hole and then sand it and prime it and paint it. If it's small nail holes for installations I will sometimes use a white seam fill. Or for doing repairs. You can get this from industrial supplies or from your countertop supplier
What would you estimate your cost of materials/cabinet to be?
I generally will take the cost of each cabinet would be one sheet of material whether that is plywood or melamine. Then I calculate how many doors I need whether I'm making them or ordering them I have to factor that in. Then I calculate all my drawers and how much time it takes to make one of those and the amount of material. Then I add in finishing and how much time it takes. Then moldings and panels and the finishing required on that. The last thing is a profit margin. Generally I try to be about 30%
@@henrymostert2125 Good to know. Thanks for the bill of materials. You earned this sub.
Thanks Andrew. This brings up a good topic of what you should be included in doing custom cabinetry and how to price it. Thanks for asking
@@henrymostert2125 Sure thing. I'd be very interested in watching the video if you made one.
What size nails you use Sr?
Hi Juan. I use just inch and a quarter 18 gauge nails. If I was using 16 gauge I would probably use an inch and a half. The nails are just there to hold it together while the glue dries. On larger cabinets I will put one screw by the front edge just to make sure that it doesn't get racked or moved. The glue is extremely strong when sits. And it has just a bit of flexibility
@henrymostert2125 thank you for you response
7:25 What is that machine?
That machine is a small Edge bander. A real Time saver.
@@henrymostert2125 Good to know. Thanks!
What drawer tracks are you using?
I use salice. I find them to be a very good value. I've had less issue with these then with Blum
Henry, just catching up on your last three videos. As anticipated; the info is solid, delivery outstanding, and the editing .............perfect! keep'em coming !
Narrator: if you're reading this, and have any interest in woodworking, machinery rebuilds, or honest answers - SUBSCRIBE !!!!!!
Thanks dave thats very kind and encouraging. Much appreciated 👍👍😀
What size/length nails do you use? Thanks!
@@chrisryziuk685 i use 1 1/4 18 gauge nails. 1 1/2 16 gauge would be better because they dont deflect as much as 18 gauge. I just have a few to many boxes of 1 1/4
Yeah it’s easy for anyone over 6’ tall to load a 4x8 sheet on table saw. I’m 5’2 and um it’s hard
Hahaha. Yes that's true. I take it for granted sometimes. My back is feeling it though. I'm switching to plywood core for all of my cabinets from now on. Way lighter. Thanks for watching
can you really put glue on melamine and they sticked?
@@jamesc4362 yes James but you have to use melamine glue. Tight bond has a really good brand. I assemble cabinets with this glue and all I do is glue and nail it.
Any tricks to clean corners on the edge banding? I’m doing a custom built in for a client right now, figured out the planer trick but still ended up needing filler
It's Melameen, please. I cringe when you say Mine.
I will try to correct that. Hahahaha 😂