Some good info. I have a 90 as well with 250000km. The key to short nose crank life is changing the woodruff key and timing gear with every timing belt change. They aren’t expensive I think I paid $60 Canadian for both parts. For the lifters the issue isn’t wear its sludge inside. I took mine out when I did my timing belt last week and all 16 were stuck. There’s a little check valve inside that gets plugged. Napp Motorsport has a RUclips video on how to clean. All you need is an inch pound torque wrench to get the cams back in. Again super easy. Wheels. The most important thing is weight. 14 or 15 you should be 15 pounds or less. Daisies are 12.8p. I run a 14x7 +20 wheel that weighs 11 pounds with tire I’m at 26p. 15s are the best option though now. 14s are hard to get.
** Adjusting the popup covers ** should be done by raising the lights, removing the plastic shroud around the headlight, loosening the appropriate set screws on either or both sides of the popup cover BEFORE lining it up with the hood, fender and bumper cover. Then you raise the lights again, tighten the screws back in and replace the shroud around the headlight. Do it right and you won't risk bending/breaking something you shouldn't like this guys did and you'll be able to line up your popup covers perfectly on all four sides, not just at the rear of the covers like his look at @5:08.
That wasn’t a tip on adjusting the covers just to make the rears flush. Thing is you’d have to pull really hard to break it and yea if you do everything you say they will look nice but it won’t last. The rear is always the biggest gap in the two cars I had at least. It’s a quick tip
"they will look nice but it won’t last." Why wouldn't it? Do it right, do it once, you won't have to do it ever again and it will look right all round, not just at the back. Panel gap doesn't change when everything is torqued down as it should be.
Hey! Don't use the pinch weld at all. There are four jack points just inside it, which are good for the jack or ideal for jackstands. They look like rough rectangular bumps, right behind and in front of the door.
I’m not on stock suspension my car had cheapo coilovers I upgraded to bc racing right after I got the car it’s lowered a lot from stock. I love the set up I’m running I actually have a video talking about it probably only thing I’d wish for is a 15x8 not 7 or a higher offset to bring the wheels out more but for the price I got mine for I’m not complaining. The tires are awesome but my car needs an alignment bad which is why I took them off.
Also, stock spark plug wires are not so great and the stock Showa shocks are known to not last long. Both of these are pretty affordable to replace. And if you have a 90-97, make sure the CAS gasket hasn't gone bad and leaked oil onto your heater core hose. That will cause the hose to fail at some point, which isn't fun.
The nb can fit bigger wheels. The na tho 15x8 you’ll have no problems, depending on offset you might need to roll the fender. With 15x9 you’ll rub suspension components, near full lock, so yah on track it would be fine. But you’ll need to roll fenders for sure and maybe even pull the front fenders.
@NavsGarage nbs you also need to be rolled a bit too. It all comes down to the wheel itself. NA and NB share mostly the same components for suspension, key word: mostly. There are slight differences like the nb subframe being different in geometry for upper control arm location, as well as the nb2 having extra metal on it, furthermore, the subframe (nb) also has a different design for the steering rack.
Some good info. I have a 90 as well with 250000km. The key to short nose crank life is changing the woodruff key and timing gear with every timing belt change. They aren’t expensive I think I paid $60 Canadian for both parts. For the lifters the issue isn’t wear its sludge inside. I took mine out when I did my timing belt last week and all 16 were stuck. There’s a little check valve inside that gets plugged. Napp Motorsport has a RUclips video on how to clean. All you need is an inch pound torque wrench to get the cams back in. Again super easy. Wheels. The most important thing is weight. 14 or 15 you should be 15 pounds or less. Daisies are 12.8p. I run a 14x7 +20 wheel that weighs 11 pounds with tire I’m at 26p. 15s are the best option though now. 14s are hard to get.
Thanks. Gonna use the info in my video tomorrow
** Adjusting the popup covers ** should be done by raising the lights, removing the plastic shroud around the headlight, loosening the appropriate set screws on either or both sides of the popup cover BEFORE lining it up with the hood, fender and bumper cover. Then you raise the lights again, tighten the screws back in and replace the shroud around the headlight. Do it right and you won't risk bending/breaking something you shouldn't like this guys did and you'll be able to line up your popup covers perfectly on all four sides, not just at the rear of the covers like his look at @5:08.
That wasn’t a tip on adjusting the covers just to make the rears flush. Thing is you’d have to pull really hard to break it and yea if you do everything you say they will look nice but it won’t last. The rear is always the biggest gap in the two cars I had at least. It’s a quick tip
"they will look nice but it won’t last." Why wouldn't it? Do it right, do it once, you won't have to do it ever again and it will look right all round, not just at the back. Panel gap doesn't change when everything is torqued down as it should be.
Finally Miata content!!
Hey! Don't use the pinch weld at all. There are four jack points just inside it, which are good for the jack or ideal for jackstands. They look like rough rectangular bumps, right behind and in front of the door.
I’m about to buy the exact same wheel/tire setup. Are you in stock suspension? How do you like the rpf1s and advan flevas?
I’m not on stock suspension my car had cheapo coilovers I upgraded to bc racing right after I got the car it’s lowered a lot from stock. I love the set up I’m running I actually have a video talking about it probably only thing I’d wish for is a 15x8 not 7 or a higher offset to bring the wheels out more but for the price I got mine for I’m not complaining. The tires are awesome but my car needs an alignment bad which is why I took them off.
Also, stock spark plug wires are not so great and the stock Showa shocks are known to not last long. Both of these are pretty affordable to replace. And if you have a 90-97, make sure the CAS gasket hasn't gone bad and leaked oil onto your heater core hose. That will cause the hose to fail at some point, which isn't fun.
Yah I think spark plug wire were good. But either way age and mileage they need to be replaced. It’s a 60k mile service item
That bucket seat seems like it’s fun to get in and out of 😂
Yah still getting use to it.
good tips
*sweats in 16x7 SA3Rs*. 15X9 is usually best for track use, of course there are situational reasons to it.
The nb can fit bigger wheels. The na tho 15x8 you’ll have no problems, depending on offset you might need to roll the fender. With 15x9 you’ll rub suspension components, near full lock, so yah on track it would be fine. But you’ll need to roll fenders for sure and maybe even pull the front fenders.
@NavsGarage nbs you also need to be rolled a bit too. It all comes down to the wheel itself. NA and NB share mostly the same components for suspension, key word: mostly. There are slight differences like the nb subframe being different in geometry for upper control arm location, as well as the nb2 having extra metal on it, furthermore, the subframe (nb) also has a different design for the steering rack.