Thanks for sharing this info. Most companies would not tell everyone so they can sell more clutches and belts. That is why I have been putting your products on my RZR 1000. Hunterworks kicks ass!!
I appreciate that, I am telling you so when you buy our stuff it lasts and does not get a bad name because you are using it wrong but it works for us all.
So the solution to avoiding ruining your transmission when just driving your UTV is to get a Honda Talon or Yamaha YXZ. Who'd have thought these things were built so poorly that you can't even simply just drive it at a constant speed?
It’s all in what they are designed for I crawl and do a lot of hill climbing and and talon and us both suck for that because the manual or automatic doesn’t put the power down the way you want like a cvt does. If you want to cruise the highways go buy a car
I ride my general 1000 on the road pretty frequently. Used to ride a Honda trx450r all over the place on the road. What I’ve always done is constantly vary the rpm’s and load. Don’t hold it steady like a car or a Harley. It’s a sxs it doesn’t have gears BUT you can still ride em on the road just be in and out of the throttle constantly and don’t hold it at the same rpm. Haven’t had a problem yet with general or race bike
Sold my Honda Rancher a few months ago with electric thumb shift. I now have a Can Am Renegade and am realizing how much more maintenance is required to keep a CVT happy. Aside from regular oil changes, the Rancher transmission needed zero maintenance.
I have a 93 Honda four Trax that’s still going strong and a 2024 Honda recon that’s not made quite as well but still a very reliable and kick ass bike with no maintenance
After blowing 3 belts which took out the whole housing 3 times at the cost of $1500 each time my shop tells me I can’t drive down the hiway at 50mph and must vary it 45-60 so it doesn’t burn up the belt. Then I learn the shop when installing an aftermarket clutch kit used the wrong springs and THAT was the real culprit. Once that got figured out I’ve had no issues and I watch the belt temp religiously. And the dealer never reimbursed me. Big name dealer in Show Low Az.
Bad clutching and blowing belts is an issue, this particular deal is just wearing them out, not blowing belts. You can take the best set up in the world and wear it out prematurely running high speed all the time.
I don’t doubt that at all, but I was running 3-4 miles down the highway and after the first blown belt I varied speed 40-55 and it still kept happening until the service manager really delved into it and told me they clutched it wrong, but the owners was not going to refund any of the $ spent. Obviously not using that shop anymore.@@Hunterworks
@@Hunterworks it’s a 2016 rzr 4 900 with 28” tires and a tuner. Interestingly enough once they corrected the clutch springs if I run the same 3-4 miles varying my speed it only gets to 147 degrees vs 170+ before they corrected the setup and it could overheat in a 1/2 mile. I’ll be due for a belt soon and I’d like to get one from you. I think you and I discussed this previously when it was happening and I think you diagnosed it correctly. Thx!
The only belt drive toys I own are snowmobiles, cooling of the clutches is an issue even in the winter, they get hot. Usually ride off trail in the mountains in Montana. Trail riding the flat lands may be less of an issue, I don't know. I like my Honda 500 atv with a transmission.
Yeah, I can confirm that trail riding in general is a non-issue for snowmobiles. Even in Michigan (flat), deep snow riding can kill belts simply due to the reduction of cooling air. This is why SxS's in the desert will often run without a clutch cover on at all (or a clutch cage instead of a cover).
Great info. Road riding a locked rear CVT trans will always cause additional wear. The take away is to install BOTH harder weights and rollers like JBS and vary RPM speed.
I worked in Polaris R/d from 2003-2013. Developed the rzr and ranger product lines. Clutch and belt temps are a major issue. We tested for thusands of miles, sometimes that clutch cooling air reaches over 300f befor the belt blows. Ive even started belt fires that required an extinguisher to put out. Cvt = cheap energy transfer with major compromises and energy loss. The fastest way to destroy a belt on a polaris is low range, WOT...temps will spike and it will launch in no time...junk!!!
Yea it really hurts the clutches. We only get around 3,000 miles out of a belt. It doesnt break, but we just go ahead and swao it with new oem. The primaries are only getting around 20k-30k miles.
@@theMacGyvercom for the love of god service the rest of the clutch if you haven't lol Zero brand loyalty here. Currently on a yamaha, polaris or kawasaki is next. Keep the clutches clean and serviced and they all last for 15-20k. My ranger, rzr, pioneer, and yxz all did.
This is why I stuck to owning a Jeep over a sxs. If I want to do a technical trail that’s 20 miles from my house I’d either have to trailer a sxs or rag it out on the road to get to the trail.
@@Hunterworks if I can get the $$ together I’d love to have both the Jeep and a sxs with a trailer. That’s my plan anyway. It’ll take a while but that’s the way it goes.
Unfortunately many riding areas require some road riding to get to the trail heads, Tackett Creek being the worst from my perspective, we often spend 35 minutes or more on the road to get to the trail head. Sounds like after those trips we should do some clutch maintenance
I have flex posted before but the HW belt is pure gold...I got 7000 KM's on my first one with a OEM clutch. I am very soft on the throttle and always vary speeds and rarely max out. I am a old fuddy duddy out there but the way I look at it, I am there to be there and not in a hurry to be somewhere else.
Everyone talking about a jeep in here... The mid 90s suzuki sidekick is where it's at. AC, heat, 110 Hp. Same weight as a polaris expidition. Needs an altered ego lift, 33s, and a full service to be extremely capable. 400hp and longtravel is fine, but I miss mine to just beat on and still get 20 mpg.
I had a Rzr 1000. Totally road legal where I am Sold it with 5200 miles on it never replaced the clutch I was warned don’t use aftermarket belts they have a harder compound and that’s where you’ll get the grooves in your clutch.
I have a 1000xp and I have never grooved my clutches. But they only last me about 1200 miles before the sliding part wears out and is out of spec. I Mostly ride dunes so it's the opposite issue (constantly varying the speed) from no throttle to full throttle.
I run a 2020 RS1.. We do all kinds of riding.. From trail, rock crawling and railbed to get between trails.. Our short days are 350km plus. I am currently sitting at 35,000km original belt and all original clutch. Now I do have a particle separator on my clutch intake and I do clean them quite often. But I do not see or feel any kind of wear in the clutch plates and or weights and rollers. It would be nothing for us to run 70 to 80km/hr for hours on end getting between trails systems. I guess I have been lucky.
You have and a RS1 is way lighter so it would go further than a heavy UTV plus exceptions to the rule do not change the rule. I see this every single day.
Put 73,000 miles on my Can Am X3, driving it around the country - clutches do 10,000 to 12,000 miles before needing to be rebuilt. OEM belts will generally go 3,500 or so miles on a fresh clutch and still look good when they get swapped. Secondary rollers can sometimes break prematurely at 5,000 or so miles, but not often.
Great info …I have preached this quite a lot . No matter the brand Polaris or Can Am etc that going 10+ miles at 70-80 is tough on belt drives cause if the massive heat build up. I know the DCT is annoying in slower technical terrain but I hope Can Am moves the Maverick R transmission into the X3s very soon.
@@austinr09 I’ve ridden CVTs since 1998 I’m well aware of where they shine and don’t . Problem is a lot of National trail systems in our area require long distance high speed travel if you’re going to cover much of the systems . Of course the smooth power delivery is better , but durability/reliability is the downfall.
@@austinr09 Some of us live in states where ATV and SXS are street legal. I can drive my ATV 20 miles into town on the main road doing 65mph. They are all over down town, especially in the summers. Heck today on the way home there was at least 5 SXS at the gas station in middle of town.
Just as I thought. Really don't like riding on the asphalt. Tough on tires, and as you have now added, or opened eyes to, hard on clutches. Should be getting my new clutches and belt from Hunterworks today. My old oem clutch finally getting replaced, only had 5600 miles on it! Ha ha, guess I got my moneys worth out of those. Always appreciate your videos, Todd. Thanks for taking the time to make them. I tried to make one ONCE!, thought it would be useful information for those who needed it. Decided I didn't have a month to do the "job" of making the video. So, I finished my project in an hour, and the video didn't get produced. Thanks again Todd.
Thats all we do is road ride. No trails, have to trailer them hours away for trail ridding. We all have them plated and ride 80 to 100 miles on road every time we go ridding. Just don't go much over 40 or 45. 2023 rzr xp1000. Just couldn't buy Honda, they need major update on all there SXS Dash and interior are to dated. Bought it mainly for campground use and ridding around town. Already have it in back my mind new clutch every couple years.
Just the video I needed to come across. I’m new to the SXS/UTV world, even though I’ve always had some kind of 4x4 in my garage. I’m learning these are different vehicles with different dynamics. Thanks for your insight, new sub here.
I bought a hunterworks primary for my 2019 Polaris general. It worked great for about 78 miles, and then a thin washer came loose where the spring is and kept it from opening up. So I bought a cheap primary and secondary for less then half the cost of the hunterworks primary. And it has lasted 206 miles so far. I had high hopes for the hunterworks primary. I didn't try to get another one warranted or ask for money back since it plainly states no warranties on web site. And I do run It wide open for 2 1/2 mile until I get to a dirt road to get to our hunting land. But we only do that once every week and a half. I'm not downing hunterworks just had higher expectations of their product after watching their videos on it. Maybe it was just bad luck.
No washer to come loose, there is a washer in all clutches that moves up and down the shaft freely but you should have read the warranty or watched our video on it. We would have helped you on it. We have not had any clutches in stock since July of last year, made a couple changes and the newest will be out very soon. Not too late to contact on it.
Thank you for replying and for the info. It was that washer wedging from one side or the other not allowing it slide and open back up. I will look into contacting this evening.
@@HaroldBarnes-e7e Ill need pics of that. I am aware of some known issues we replace it with, never even heard of such. Email me pics of that and the buttons in the spider too please to todd@hunterworks.com FYI, no matter what you have issues with that you bought here, you contact me direct.
I had often wondered why people were complaining about clutch heat. I just trail ride and yard work my ATV but now I know to keep it around 30 if I hit the road.
I sold my RZR because of the clutch issues. Wasn't road riding but wot running in fields etc. If you like going fast a geared unit would be miles ahead of CVT units.
Todd Eldridge most definitely knows his clutch stuff. These guys have it down pat on how to fix and build you the almost perfect clutch you can get. But cvt will never be spot on absolute perfect. But Todd can get the best you’re gonna get. He has helped me allot with my turbo pro.
My mom has a 2017 can am 850 xmr and only replaced the belt one time since owning it. We also plow with it and also ride roads from time too time going 35-60 mph. It does run a bit hot though which is concerning on hot days but haven't overheated yet and its due too a programmer that was installed by previous owner.
Guess what, the RMAX will do the same thing, The track where the roller weight sits at these sustained speeds gets a divot and roller will flat spot and the secondary will wear as well. It might do better at this but not by much.
The video is not about belts, about ruining clutches and I only made the video after seeing this issue so often, I am literally reporting the news, don't kill the messenger. LOL
I noticed this also on my General XP. Its not technically "road legal" but if you're not acting a fool, the cops don't usually mess with you, but after having gone across the county a couple times it always like to throw either a belt code or a O2 code. So after its done it twice now we just trailer it to and from.
I’ve put 5000 miles on my 2020 Rzr XP-1000. It’s not unusual for it to see 150+ mile days. Just yesterday I replaced the clutch with a Giloman RX EBS clutch. The worse wear seemed to be from the square pads contacting the secondary housing. The belt faces were pristine.
Ford ranger, LMAO. There is nothing to do with a ford ranger that is any kind fun whatsoever. You are joshing. Watch some U-tube son, learn something. Like sitting at the bottom of the hill instead of at the top. 🤣
I’ve got a 2004 Yamaha Kodiak that I just ordered a heavier set of primary weights to help with the buzzy throttle hungry nature of the 450’s I trail ride most the time, just seems like you really have to give it the beans to get the primary to shift out, I’d read online other people felt the same way as I do and throwing a set of grizzly 660 sliders in it really gets rid of the buzzy throttle hungry nature of these little machines. But I also only ride at consistent speeds for maybe a mile or two, it’s a work machine that I use to check fence and tree farms, but I’d never considered the downside of a cvt doing long periods of a constant speed.
If youre referring to the photos I sent after the swap, I didnt do that. It was the previous owner. Lol😂 The new clutches are awesome, takes off with good power and smooth. Very happy with the set up. Thabk you for your time in answering all my questions. Sincerely, Scott
I had a talon trans failed within 600 miles…. Dealer replaced …. Failed again at 820ish…. Took machine back and I went with Polaris xp4 ….. 2000 miles issue free
My maverick sport will chatter belts after 300-400 miles. I'm forever cleaning the belt and sheaves to try to extend belt life. Tried several brands of belts and the OEM ones seem to hold up the longest before they chatter
IMHO Todd nails it in several comment replies, in that many of the newer SxS’s with all the bells and whistles are pushing or over 2,000 pounds dry weight, which is 3 to 4 times the weight of a typical snowmobile or ATV. Yet, these UTV’s are essentially running the same dry rubber belt CTV systems. I’m actually impressed that the CVT clutches can hold up as well as they do under these loads. Imagine taking the transmission from a Prius and running it in a RAM 3500 dually diesel - - wouldn’t last long. I just don’t see a snowmobile or single passenger ATV having the same clutch issues due to constant-speed use that a heavy UTV may exhibit.
constant speeds in a snowmobile create the same effect, we need to vary speed to prevent flat spots and wear in the same manner, although rarer in the snowmobile world, i knew a guide who would take his personal sled to lead a trail ride group at a constant speed and had these same problems, keep the CVT shifting no matter what you're riding. we may lack the weight, but we also have more resistance.
I have blowhole on my RS1...i usually drive asphalt from street to street, up and down...sometimes offroad, but mostly asphalt...i like to race because i like driving gokarts...i have all boys toys. I got like 4000miles with gorila belt and aftermarket assasins complete clutch kit...fiew days ago i was doing service, there is almost NO wear on clutch...so from my side i think is better to drive it full thorottle than slow... for very slow i use LOW gear as much as possible.
For a Polaris XPEDITION, what do you consider “longer periods of times”? I do plan to ride on country roads at times but most of what we do is lower speed trails in the Midwest
Montana Highway legal here. Forest roads a few designated trails over here on the west side. I stay under 50 and vary between 40 and 50 on the highway. Usually no more than ten or so miles before the dirt mud and snow.
I put one of your clutches on my last ranger and it dropped the revs 1500 rpm and the mpg increased greatly , unfortunately that ranger died at 12,000 miles so i just bought another 2024 ranger and thats reving high and mpg sucks . I fixing to change the new polaris clutch for the mother clutcher i have on the dead one .. many thanks great product
I’m not doubting what you say but why don’t other vehicles like Canam Ryker and millions of scooters (which all do sustained constant speeds on roads) suffer from the same issue?
So what is considered long distance driving? I am currently at 21000 miles on my 2018 XP1000TRE. I installed a Duraclutch at 15000. Yeah, the original was getting pretty noisy, but was still functioning “fair”.
What’s really frustrating about all this is people keep buying machines with CVT transmissions so these companies keep building them, if people would just stop buying this junk the companies would be forced to use real transmissions. Iv been riding ATVs and driving UTVs for over 20 years and nothing has held up as well as HONDA, TORO WORKMAN, and TORO HDX.
Not a belt drive fan. On snowmobiles fine but dont like it on a quad or utv. I like my Honda DCT although they dont have at least on my quad a high speed. 50 mph is at the rev limit on mine
Thanks for the vid. Appreciate ya. I drive a 2018 RZR 1000 turbo home 10 miles one way with tracks all winter. Bout November to May. I did wear a grove in my weights. It’s not “ruining” anything, its just the cost of travel. I took the weights out, buffed the grove out and all was well and fine. You can weigh each weight if you want to get nerdy, go for it. It just cost money to operate these machines, period. The tracks blow out bogey wheels, the $200 belts burn from heat, etc… but … you having fun? You getting somewhere like “home” with all your groceries and extra fuel, dog, and kids? Exactly. Use your toys, fix them, and go to work to pay for them. No whiners please. If you want to get desensitized from maintenance costs for having some fun, just buy an certified airplane and maintain that. That’ll fix ya.
We can disagree, if you smoothed the weights up, you took material off, they will not move the movable as far, IE "ruined" them. But I do agree it is the cost of doing this type. This is info for those who do not want to groove weights
I want to use a 2025 cfmoto cforce 1000 as a commuter between training, shopping, errands etc. Means I will use it a lot on roads. Are you saying this is a bad idea? Or just advising me to speed and accelerate more. And before you say get a car, no I dont want a car. Its too high fixed costs for cars in norway. I want something i can drive all year which is fun, with low/mid fixed costs which I can use as a commuter
Yes I am saying this is a bad idea, get a Honda Pioneer for this style of riding since it has a real transmission. But if you vary the speed as much as you can then that would help.
So with all this being said I'm curious I cam across an article somewhere saying if your at a constant speed under 30mph it is best to stay in low gear is that true ?
They rent Rzr's in Gatlinburg. They regularly get 10-15k miles on a set of stock clutches. They just had a rzr turbo that was for sale out of their fleet with 32k miles on it. They ONLY have been ridden on pavement and constant speeds from 25-45.......
They are varying speeds, you even said it 25-45. I said going miles at one single speed. Like 10 miles at 70 mph and oddly there are a lot doing this and lastly if it was not a thing I would not be making a video that sells nothing to warn you about it.
Just vary your speed once in a while. This is a well known thing with snowmobiles. Also, manufacturers DO tell you what that machine is designed for and what its capabilities are. The problem is people dont do their research before buying. After the purchase, they dont read their owners manual. I've been riding roads and long distances on snowmobiles, sxs, and atvs for a long time. Never had trouble other than regular maintenance.
How do you tell the upper limit on the ctv. When engine rom rise past the "stall speed" sorry i know torque converters, i think you will understand my ?
Im surprised they haven't gone to a automotive style wet cvt on some of the bigger machines. I would imagine the cost would be down compared to the DCT but more reliable since the cooling capability is so much better.
Well i Rock crawl my Turbo S , and trail ride. And also do long dirt road trips , never had a belt issue or grooves in my clutch. matter of fact ive had it four years and just changed my first belt 🤷🏼♂️
In MN we are allowed to ride on the road unless locally prohibited and not on Highway or Freeway. We have taken the occasional Ice Cream Run ~100 miles mostly gravel with speeds varying from 15 to 50 mph. Over 6000 miles on 2015 RZR 900s with original clutch. (I did replace the rollers in the secondary that delaminated themselves after the first two years) I am sure it has seen better days. Would a Dura-Clutch wear the same way, better or worse?
@@Hunterworks i’m happy with the performance so I’m going to run it until something starts to wear out and then I will hit you guys up. Thank you for all your videos and help.
Excellent vid. Totally agree. In my experience with sleds, when I used to do a ton of groomed trail riding with my kids and followed the posted speed limits (50kph/30mph) I could destroy a clutch and secondary in one season!
I have aKRX with 1500 miles,no problems yet ,ride mostly trails, with 2 or 3 highway miles to get to other trails.When riding trails10 mps or quicker I stay n high gear ,am I wrong ??
My ranger 800 has a whine that starts around 25 mph or so, quiets down around 35 and then gradually gets louder and louder the faster I go. If I let off throttle, it immediately goes away, if I touch throttle it comes back. I find myself having to get to 35 or so and keep that speed so it’s bearable to go from point a to b. Any suggestions on what to look at?
I HAVE A 2006 GRIZZLY 660 S.E. THAT I TRAIL RIDE AND USE FOR DEER HUNTING HERE IN ALABAMA, I LIFT THE FRONT WHEELS OFF THE GROUND SOMETIMES AND RACE WITH MY FRIENDS, I STILL HAVE THE ORIGINAL O.E.M. BELT 👍
@@Hunterworks I have a 06 Polaris sportsman 800 and I do mostly sport/trail riding o have only ripped up 1 belt because of front brakes locking up I have a Dayco in it now what belt would suit my style of riding. I don't do mudding on this quad but my friend does on a 2011 800
Not in my book, too high and too heavy, gets stuck easy and tear up too much trying not to get stuck. I own a jeep and it has its place for sure so it depends on what you are doing. My jeep can't do what I do with our machines at all.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for sharing this info. Most companies would not tell everyone so they can sell more clutches and belts. That is why I have been putting your products on my RZR 1000. Hunterworks kicks ass!!
I appreciate that, I am telling you so when you buy our stuff it lasts and does not get a bad name because you are using it wrong but it works for us all.
Next time I can’t sleep , I’ll just listen to your silky smooth monologues about clutches 😂
Good idea!!
Seriously great accent and speaking tempo
🤣🤣🤣
Man, I'm going to bed !
So the solution to avoiding ruining your transmission when just driving your UTV is to get a Honda Talon or Yamaha YXZ. Who'd have thought these things were built so poorly that you can't even simply just drive it at a constant speed?
Especially when they cost as much as an actual truck. 40k for some of them that’s crazy.
That’s why I bought a talon. All shaft no rubber baby 😎
They are all built poorly, just some are worse than others.
It’s all in what they are designed for I crawl and do a lot of hill climbing and and talon and us both suck for that because the manual or automatic doesn’t put the power down the way you want like a cvt does. If you want to cruise the highways go buy a car
obviously you don't understand a cvt transmission. 99% don't understand.
I ride my general 1000 on the road pretty frequently. Used to ride a Honda trx450r all over the place on the road. What I’ve always done is constantly vary the rpm’s and load. Don’t hold it steady like a car or a Harley. It’s a sxs it doesn’t have gears BUT you can still ride em on the road just be in and out of the throttle constantly and don’t hold it at the same rpm. Haven’t had a problem yet with general or race bike
Sold my Honda Rancher a few months ago with electric thumb shift. I now have a Can Am Renegade and am realizing how much more maintenance is required to keep a CVT happy. Aside from regular oil changes, the Rancher transmission needed zero maintenance.
I have a 93 Honda four Trax that’s still going strong and a 2024 Honda recon that’s not made quite as well but still a very reliable and kick ass bike with no maintenance
After blowing 3 belts which took out the whole housing 3 times at the cost of $1500 each time my shop tells me I can’t drive down the hiway at 50mph and must vary it 45-60 so it doesn’t burn up the belt. Then I learn the shop when installing an aftermarket clutch kit used the wrong springs and THAT was the real culprit. Once that got figured out I’ve had no issues and I watch the belt temp religiously. And the dealer never reimbursed me. Big name dealer in Show Low Az.
Bad clutching and blowing belts is an issue, this particular deal is just wearing them out, not blowing belts. You can take the best set up in the world and wear it out prematurely running high speed all the time.
I don’t doubt that at all, but I was running 3-4 miles down the highway and after the first blown belt I varied speed 40-55 and it still kept happening until the service manager really delved into it and told me they clutched it wrong, but the owners was not going to refund any of the $ spent. Obviously not using that shop anymore.@@Hunterworks
@@dansherwood9851 What is the vehicle?
@@Hunterworks it’s a 2016 rzr 4 900 with 28” tires and a tuner. Interestingly enough once they corrected the clutch springs if I run the same 3-4 miles varying my speed it only gets to 147 degrees vs 170+ before they corrected the setup and it could overheat in a 1/2 mile. I’ll be due for a belt soon and I’d like to get one from you. I think you and I discussed this previously when it was happening and I think you diagnosed it correctly. Thx!
@@dansherwood9851 be glad to help you again, so when you want that belt email me and if we need to talk on the phone we can
I think I got it. We need to buy multiple $40,000 side-by-side to have fun. I’ll stick with my Honda recon. It goes anywhere with zero maintenance.
any steady speed wrecks these cvts
makes sense
The only belt drive toys I own are snowmobiles, cooling of the clutches is an issue even in the winter, they get hot. Usually ride off trail in the mountains in Montana. Trail riding the flat lands may be less of an issue, I don't know. I like my Honda 500 atv with a transmission.
Yeah, I can confirm that trail riding in general is a non-issue for snowmobiles. Even in Michigan (flat), deep snow riding can kill belts simply due to the reduction of cooling air.
This is why SxS's in the desert will often run without a clutch cover on at all (or a clutch cage instead of a cover).
Great info. Road riding a locked rear CVT trans will always cause additional wear. The take away is to install BOTH harder weights and rollers like JBS and vary RPM speed.
They fail too, their KRX ones failed and no weight harder than dalton and same thing happens
I worked in Polaris R/d from 2003-2013. Developed the rzr and ranger product lines. Clutch and belt temps are a major issue. We tested for thusands of miles, sometimes that clutch cooling air reaches over 300f befor the belt blows. Ive even started belt fires that required an extinguisher to put out. Cvt = cheap energy transfer with major compromises and energy loss. The fastest way to destroy a belt on a polaris is low range, WOT...temps will spike and it will launch in no time...junk!!!
Do think now in 2024 they have fixed that issue? In your opinion What is the best sxs?
Yea it really hurts the clutches. We only get around 3,000 miles out of a belt. It doesnt break, but we just go ahead and swao it with new oem. The primaries are only getting around 20k-30k miles.
My poor little Viking has 9000+ miles of working and towing and as of last week my belt still looks new
@@theMacGyvercom for the love of god service the rest of the clutch if you haven't lol
Zero brand loyalty here. Currently on a yamaha, polaris or kawasaki is next.
Keep the clutches clean and serviced and they all last for 15-20k. My ranger, rzr, pioneer, and yxz all did.
@@CadeSubscriptionAccount lol its been checked, cleaned and one way changed. Thats how i know the belt still looks good. Lol
This is why I stuck to owning a Jeep over a sxs. If I want to do a technical trail that’s 20 miles from my house I’d either have to trailer a sxs or rag it out on the road to get to the trail.
Sounds like you live too close to the trail, could get a trailer and go ride LOL
@@Hunterworks if I can get the $$ together I’d love to have both the Jeep and a sxs with a trailer. That’s my plan anyway. It’ll take a while but that’s the way it goes.
Unfortunately many riding areas require some road riding to get to the trail heads, Tackett Creek being the worst from my perspective, we often spend 35 minutes or more on the road to get to the trail head. Sounds like after those trips we should do some clutch maintenance
Tackett does require a bunch if road riding.
But you are not running wide open at the same speed doing that. I have made that run countless times.
I have flex posted before but the HW belt is pure gold...I got 7000 KM's on my first one with a OEM clutch. I am very soft on the throttle and always vary speeds and rarely max out. I am a old fuddy duddy out there but the way I look at it, I am there to be there and not in a hurry to be somewhere else.
I was working at a powersports dealer here in Arizona, you are very much correct sir
Everyone talking about a jeep in here... The mid 90s suzuki sidekick is where it's at. AC, heat, 110 Hp. Same weight as a polaris expidition.
Needs an altered ego lift, 33s, and a full service to be extremely capable.
400hp and longtravel is fine, but I miss mine to just beat on and still get 20 mpg.
I had a Rzr 1000.
Totally road legal where I am Sold it with 5200 miles on it never replaced the clutch I was warned don’t use aftermarket belts they have a harder compound and that’s where you’ll get the grooves in your clutch.
What do you call an aftermarket belt? Who do you think makes factory belts?
I have a 1000xp and I have never grooved my clutches. But they only last me about 1200 miles before the sliding part wears out and is out of spec. I Mostly ride dunes so it's the opposite issue (constantly varying the speed) from no throttle to full throttle.
@@grantdubridge7995the bro has never removed the belt and claims his clutches aren’t grooved.
Ok snowflake
@@grantdubridge7995 I think this person means 3rd party belts, not necessarily just any aftermarket belt... But you knew that....
I run a 2020 RS1.. We do all kinds of riding.. From trail, rock crawling and railbed to get between trails.. Our short days are 350km plus. I am currently sitting at 35,000km original belt and all original clutch. Now I do have a particle separator on my clutch intake and I do clean them quite often. But I do not see or feel any kind of wear in the clutch plates and or weights and rollers. It would be nothing for us to run 70 to 80km/hr for hours on end getting between trails systems. I guess I have been lucky.
You have and a RS1 is way lighter so it would go further than a heavy UTV plus exceptions to the rule do not change the rule. I see this every single day.
Put 73,000 miles on my Can Am X3, driving it around the country - clutches do 10,000 to 12,000 miles before needing to be rebuilt.
OEM belts will generally go 3,500 or so miles on a fresh clutch and still look good when they get swapped.
Secondary rollers can sometimes break prematurely at 5,000 or so miles, but not often.
Great info …I have preached this quite a lot . No matter the brand Polaris or Can Am etc that going 10+ miles at 70-80 is tough on belt drives cause if the massive heat build up. I know the DCT is annoying in slower technical terrain but I hope Can Am moves the Maverick R transmission into the X3s very soon.
Cvt is king in off-road application. Buy a car if you wanna drive long distances
@@austinr09 I’ve ridden CVTs since 1998 I’m well aware of where they shine and don’t . Problem is a lot of National trail systems in our area require long distance high speed travel if you’re going to cover much of the systems .
Of course the smooth power delivery is better , but durability/reliability is the downfall.
@@austinr09 Some of us live in states where ATV and SXS are street legal. I can drive my ATV 20 miles into town on the main road doing 65mph. They are all over down town, especially in the summers. Heck today on the way home there was at least 5 SXS at the gas station in middle of town.
@@27Zangle That’s friggin awesome lol
Good information, reminds me of a 2-stroke. Keep the revs up and down don't just hold at one rpm.
Just as I thought. Really don't like riding on the asphalt. Tough on tires, and as you have now added, or opened eyes to, hard on clutches. Should be getting my new clutches and belt from Hunterworks today. My old oem clutch finally getting replaced, only had 5600 miles on it! Ha ha, guess I got my moneys worth out of those. Always appreciate your videos, Todd. Thanks for taking the time to make them. I tried to make one ONCE!, thought it would be useful information for those who needed it. Decided I didn't have a month to do the "job" of making the video. So, I finished my project in an hour, and the video didn't get produced. Thanks again Todd.
Videos are not easy to do that is for sure and glad we were able to help you out.
Thats all we do is road ride. No trails, have to trailer them hours away for trail ridding. We all have them plated and ride 80 to 100 miles on road every time we go ridding. Just don't go much over 40 or 45. 2023 rzr xp1000. Just couldn't buy Honda, they need major update on all there SXS Dash and interior are to dated. Bought it mainly for campground use and ridding around town. Already have it in back my mind new clutch every couple years.
Good information! I had my clutch rebuilt at 6000 miles on my KRX.
My krx has 2200 miles. One belt and two clutches so far. It is not fit for my riding style.
Just the video I needed to come across. I’m new to the SXS/UTV world, even though I’ve always had some kind of 4x4 in my garage. I’m learning these are different vehicles with different dynamics. Thanks for your insight, new sub here.
I really appreciate it
I bought a hunterworks primary for my 2019 Polaris general. It worked great for about 78 miles, and then a thin washer came loose where the spring is and kept it from opening up. So I bought a cheap primary and secondary for less then half the cost of the hunterworks primary. And it has lasted 206 miles so far. I had high hopes for the hunterworks primary. I didn't try to get another one warranted or ask for money back since it plainly states no warranties on web site. And I do run It wide open for 2 1/2 mile until I get to a dirt road to get to our hunting land. But we only do that once every week and a half. I'm not downing hunterworks just had higher expectations of their product after watching their videos on it. Maybe it was just bad luck.
No washer to come loose, there is a washer in all clutches that moves up and down the shaft freely but you should have read the warranty or watched our video on it. We would have helped you on it. We have not had any clutches in stock since July of last year, made a couple changes and the newest will be out very soon. Not too late to contact on it.
here is a link ruclips.net/video/S7RbKe8pdMM/видео.html
Thank you for replying and for the info. It was that washer wedging from one side or the other not allowing it slide and open back up. I will look into contacting this evening.
@@HaroldBarnes-e7e Ill need pics of that. I am aware of some known issues we replace it with, never even heard of such. Email me pics of that and the buttons in the spider too please to todd@hunterworks.com FYI, no matter what you have issues with that you bought here, you contact me direct.
Reading all these comments makes me so glad I live in Freedomland WV!!!!
No CVT on Honda Pioneer
Yeah but then you have to drive a Honda pioneer...
Correct, you get to go internal and fix the torwue converters that fail.
I had often wondered why people were complaining about clutch heat. I just trail ride and yard work my ATV but now I know to keep it around 30 if I hit the road.
Its a constant speed of any speed. Fast or slow. You have to make it change speed constantly to keep the belt from wearing one spot at a time.
I sold my RZR because of the clutch issues. Wasn't road riding but wot running in fields etc.
If you like going fast a geared unit would be miles ahead of CVT units.
Todd Eldridge most definitely knows his clutch stuff. These guys have it down pat on how to fix and build you the almost perfect clutch you can get. But cvt will never be spot on absolute perfect. But Todd can get the best you’re gonna get. He has helped me allot with my turbo pro.
Thank you sir, I certainly try!! Todd
My mom has a 2017 can am 850 xmr and only replaced the belt one time since owning it. We also plow with it and also ride roads from time too time going 35-60 mph. It does run a bit hot though which is concerning on hot days but haven't overheated yet and its due too a programmer that was installed by previous owner.
This is really about heavy UTV's
Been telling this to people for years and everyone things I’m crazy. I don’t let my offroad sxs touch the roads.
Smart man
Many dealerships would say the opposite just so these folks can bring them in for a routine maintenance appointment.
I got 5k miles on a maverick and the clutch is just fine even with a lot of road riding. Exclusively using UTVs as road queens is what kills them.
Yeah I wanted to drive my highlifter on the road but geared to low.
I had terrible luck with Polaris RZR clutches and Hunterworks helped me every time. I switched to a Yamaha Rmax all problems solved
Guess what, the RMAX will do the same thing, The track where the roller weight sits at these sustained speeds gets a divot and roller will flat spot and the secondary will wear as well. It might do better at this but not by much.
I have rode hundreds of miles on highways in my rzr pro r and im still on original belt.
The video is not about belts, about ruining clutches and I only made the video after seeing this issue so often, I am literally reporting the news, don't kill the messenger. LOL
I noticed this also on my General XP. Its not technically "road legal" but if you're not acting a fool, the cops don't usually mess with you, but after having gone across the county a couple times it always like to throw either a belt code or a O2 code. So after its done it twice now we just trailer it to and from.
You need the over travel washer
I’ve put 5000 miles on my 2020 Rzr XP-1000. It’s not unusual for it to see 150+ mile days. Just yesterday I replaced the clutch with a Giloman RX EBS clutch. The worse wear seemed to be from the square pads contacting the secondary housing. The belt faces were pristine.
get our round rollers and a worn out secondary looks new, you typically do not see the even wear on one
This is why I'll keep off roading my old Ford Ranger. Much cheaper, AC, heat, enclosed AND I can drive it anywhere I want.
agreed, 20K for a RZR....5K for a Jeep lol
Your ford ranger isn't going where I'm taking my sxs 🤣
@@WheelinWithAustin My Ranger with spool lockers, skid plates and a 12k winch does just fine for my needs. I've owned a Rhino, wasn't too impressed.
Ford ranger, LMAO. There is nothing to do with a ford ranger that is any kind fun whatsoever.
You are joshing. Watch some U-tube son, learn something. Like sitting at the bottom of the hill instead of at the top.
🤣
Ford Ranger vs SxS ? Lol, wow.
I have a 2012 commder 800 mine has over 15000 miles on it so far and three sets of tires and oil and belts and fuel pump that's it .
That is great, the 800 class machines did better and were lighter. Once they got at high of hp as now and as heavy this started to be an issue
My old Suzuki is a dual range 5 speed manual. That bypasses all this consideration. BUT my state is really restrictive on ATVs on the road anyway.
those are consumable parts which needs checked every 1000 miles. or new parts if need be !!!
Not typically, not a good idea to swap rollers only then put in new weights, for some reason they typically do not last long
I’ve got a 2004 Yamaha Kodiak that I just ordered a heavier set of primary weights to help with the buzzy throttle hungry nature of the 450’s I trail ride most the time, just seems like you really have to give it the beans to get the primary to shift out, I’d read online other people felt the same way as I do and throwing a set of grizzly 660 sliders in it really gets rid of the buzzy throttle hungry nature of these little machines. But I also only ride at consistent speeds for maybe a mile or two, it’s a work machine that I use to check fence and tree farms, but I’d never considered the downside of a cvt doing long periods of a constant speed.
you are bogging it with the heavy weights therefore takes more throttle
If youre referring to the photos I sent after the swap, I didnt do that. It was the previous owner. Lol😂 The new clutches are awesome, takes off with good power and smooth. Very happy with the set up. Thabk you for your time in answering all my questions. Sincerely, Scott
I'm glad you mentioned the hondas cuz they are amazingly reliable not the fastest but also not why i bought them and plenty of power to get hurt lol
I can't decide on a Honda or a raptor 700.....
They are not reliable at all. We had transmission fail in 3 days. (From new)
@@outkast187 you obviously didn't operate it properly
I had a talon trans failed within 600 miles…. Dealer replaced …. Failed again at 820ish…. Took machine back and I went with Polaris xp4 ….. 2000 miles issue free
@stevenproffitt9075 you obviously didn't know how to use machine properly every fail is operator error
Well snowmobiles can handle it. But snowmobiles operate in much colder temps and that helps the belts and clutches stay in good operation temp.
And they only weigh 600 lbs, that is the main reason
@@Hunterworks very true. Personally I think sxs should all have real transmissions but I definitely see the appeal of cvt for off-road use.
My maverick sport will chatter belts after 300-400 miles. I'm forever cleaning the belt and sheaves to try to extend belt life. Tried several brands of belts and the OEM ones seem to hold up the longest before they chatter
have your tried ours?
@@Hunterworks we have not yet
HW CAX-3? It's a 2020 mav sport 1000R, 30" tires, Dalton DBMS-R1
@@jasonarbour1616 correct
@@Hunterworks I'm going to order one, fingers crossed that yours is the golden ticket 👍
IMHO Todd nails it in several comment replies, in that many of the newer SxS’s with all the bells and whistles are pushing or over 2,000 pounds dry weight, which is 3 to 4 times the weight of a typical snowmobile or ATV. Yet, these UTV’s are essentially running the same dry rubber belt CTV systems. I’m actually impressed that the CVT clutches can hold up as well as they do under these loads. Imagine taking the transmission from a Prius and running it in a RAM 3500 dually diesel - - wouldn’t last long. I just don’t see a snowmobile or single passenger ATV having the same clutch issues due to constant-speed use that a heavy UTV may exhibit.
You are right, that weight is what is killing it in this example
constant speeds in a snowmobile create the same effect, we need to vary speed to prevent flat spots and wear in the same manner, although rarer in the snowmobile world, i knew a guide who would take his personal sled to lead a trail ride group at a constant speed and had these same problems, keep the CVT shifting no matter what you're riding. we may lack the weight, but we also have more resistance.
If you check your local law most states speed limit in a UTV is 35 mile per hour
I'm glad I'm not in one of those states.. it's not fun if I can't run it to break it.
NC is 2 lane 55 or under
I have blowhole on my RS1...i usually drive asphalt from street to street, up and down...sometimes offroad, but mostly asphalt...i like to race because i like driving gokarts...i have all boys toys. I got like 4000miles with gorila belt and aftermarket assasins complete clutch kit...fiew days ago i was doing service, there is almost NO wear on clutch...so from my side i think is better to drive it full thorottle than slow... for very slow i use LOW gear as much as possible.
You are driving it correctly, not using it as a care going steady speeds for distance like the video is describing plus the RS1 is lighter
My next SXS is going to be a Yamaha YXZ. Geared transmission, electronic clutch. No belts.
For a Polaris XPEDITION, what do you consider “longer periods of times”? I do plan to ride on country roads at times but most of what we do is lower speed trails in the Midwest
Basically where you pretty much only ride on roads at constant speeds every day or several times a week, random runs is no harm.
I know people with over 10,000 miles on Polaris generals primarily road riding with Zero issues
I know way more than you with problems hence the video that is selling nothing and giving away information .
Montana Highway legal here. Forest roads a few designated trails over here on the west side. I stay under 50 and vary between 40 and 50 on the highway. Usually no more than ten or so miles before the dirt mud and snow.
Better check it out
I put one of your clutches on my last ranger and it dropped the revs 1500 rpm and the mpg increased greatly , unfortunately that ranger died at 12,000 miles so i just bought another 2024 ranger and thats reving high and mpg sucks . I fixing to change the new polaris clutch for the mother clutcher i have on the dead one .. many thanks great product
MC is chinese and may not fit or work, holler if you need me
@@Hunterworks. It was one of your clutches , I'm taking it off the 2022 ranger 570 full size and putting it on the 24
@@michaelwilson1920 We do not have a clutch for it, so I think you mean duraclutch and only if both are 570 will it work.
Your right it was Harvey's atv my bad , but yeah they are both 570's @@Hunterworks
I'm glad I learned this early on. 4000 miles on original clutch and weights
I’m not doubting what you say but why don’t other vehicles like Canam Ryker and millions of scooters (which all do sustained constant speeds on roads) suffer from the same issue?
Easy, load and weight. What do those weigh? What is the rolling resistance compared to a UTV? BTW the Ryker secondary rollers fail a lot.
@@Hunterworks Yes, you’re right. I didn’t consider weight and the extra resistances.
@@fredericktucker9419 Thank goodness I did when I made this video HEHE
Hmm. Iv got 4000 miles on my ranger 98 percent black top 65mph all time. Iv had no issues stock clutches stock original belt.
Hmmm, you are lucky.
good video just bought a new ranger 1000 and don,t know much about UTV I use it around the yard and rock roads
So what is considered long distance driving? I am currently at 21000 miles on my 2018 XP1000TRE. I installed a Duraclutch at 15000. Yeah, the original was getting pretty noisy, but was still functioning “fair”.
What’s really frustrating about all this is people keep buying machines with CVT transmissions so these companies keep building them, if people would just stop buying this junk the companies would be forced to use real transmissions. Iv been riding ATVs and driving UTVs for over 20 years and nothing has held up as well as HONDA,
TORO WORKMAN,
and TORO HDX.
Not a belt drive fan. On snowmobiles fine but dont like it on a quad or utv. I like my Honda DCT although they dont have at least on my quad a high speed. 50 mph is at the rev limit on mine
Thanks for the vid. Appreciate ya. I drive a 2018 RZR 1000 turbo home 10 miles one way with tracks all winter. Bout November to May. I did wear a grove in my weights. It’s not “ruining” anything, its just the cost of travel. I took the weights out, buffed the grove out and all was well and fine. You can weigh each weight if you want to get nerdy, go for it. It just cost money to operate these machines, period. The tracks blow out bogey wheels, the $200 belts burn from heat, etc… but … you having fun? You getting somewhere like “home” with all your groceries and extra fuel, dog, and kids? Exactly. Use your toys, fix them, and go to work to pay for them. No whiners please. If you want to get desensitized from maintenance costs for having some fun, just buy an certified airplane and maintain that. That’ll fix ya.
We can disagree, if you smoothed the weights up, you took material off, they will not move the movable as far, IE "ruined" them. But I do agree it is the cost of doing this type. This is info for those who do not want to groove weights
Many people don’t realize the oversized tire are they run are very hard on clutches and belts
So true. My next upgrade is switching to all 9 inch wide tires.
We got 36000 miles on a 2017 Polaris ranger 900. And our uncle has 56000 miles on his 16 900 Only replaced belts a handful of times on each
That is great however, exceptions to the rule do not change the rule. Your experience is two and ours is tens of 1000's
I want to use a 2025 cfmoto cforce 1000 as a commuter between training, shopping, errands etc. Means I will use it a lot on roads. Are you saying this is a bad idea? Or just advising me to speed and accelerate more. And before you say get a car, no I dont want a car. Its too high fixed costs for cars in norway. I want something i can drive all year which is fun, with low/mid fixed costs which I can use as a commuter
Yes I am saying this is a bad idea, get a Honda Pioneer for this style of riding since it has a real transmission. But if you vary the speed as much as you can then that would help.
I’m a novice and I really appreciate this advice. Thanks man 2023 Polaris RZR trail s 1000 300km so this will help.
So with all this being said I'm curious I cam across an article somewhere saying if your at a constant speed under 30mph it is best to stay in low gear is that true ?
My brother has a 2009 Yamaha Rhino still on the original belt.
It has less weight and lots less hp but it still can suffer from same thing. Inside sheave the weights will wear a divot as i call it in the tracks
@@Hunterworks thanks we will check it out this spring when we get the bikes ready.
They rent Rzr's in Gatlinburg. They regularly get 10-15k miles on a set of stock clutches. They just had a rzr turbo that was for sale out of their fleet with 32k miles on it. They ONLY have been ridden on pavement and constant speeds from 25-45.......
They are varying speeds, you even said it 25-45. I said going miles at one single speed. Like 10 miles at 70 mph and oddly there are a lot doing this and lastly if it was not a thing I would not be making a video that sells nothing to warn you about it.
Just vary your speed once in a while. This is a well known thing with snowmobiles. Also, manufacturers DO tell you what that machine is designed for and what its capabilities are. The problem is people dont do their research before buying. After the purchase, they dont read their owners manual. I've been riding roads and long distances on snowmobiles, sxs, and atvs for a long time. Never had trouble other than regular maintenance.
agreed
We live in the southwest need to drive to the mountains for prospecting.
Thank you for posting this, very helpful information.
Why does my can a defender jerks big time when slowly starting out going slow.
several reasons wear, tire size or simply not just giving it gas and going.
So when the conversation switches to snowmobiles, why do they operate at sustained high speeds for prolonged periods?
How do you tell the upper limit on the ctv. When engine rom rise past the "stall speed" sorry i know torque converters, i think you will understand my ?
Upper limit?
What about YAMAHA Utramatic transmissions are they better at running high speeds at long distances?
I thought I covered this in this video but ALL CVT's even yamaha, they get a deep "divot" I call it in the sheave where the rollers are from this
Was just about to pull the trigger on a Yamaha Wolverine RMax 1000 XTR but I’m getting that these are money dumps from things breaking, so maybe not
The RMAX seems to be a very reliable machine.
How do you explains mopeds/ scooters? All if not most run a cvt with thousands of miles with no issues
Easy, they weigh 200lbs. How do you explain the people that contact me daily on this exact issue?
Im surprised they haven't gone to a automotive style wet cvt on some of the bigger machines. I would imagine the cost would be down compared to the DCT but more reliable since the cooling capability is so much better.
That is what the new Ranger 1500 has and I hear it is having issues.
Mahindra Roxor would be good for many now or electric utv like the Intimidator
Well i Rock crawl my Turbo S , and trail ride. And also do long dirt road trips , never had a belt issue or grooves in my clutch. matter of fact ive had it four years and just changed my first belt 🤷🏼♂️
In MN we are allowed to ride on the road unless locally prohibited and not on Highway or Freeway. We have taken the occasional Ice Cream Run ~100 miles mostly gravel with speeds varying from 15 to 50 mph. Over 6000 miles on 2015 RZR 900s with original clutch. (I did replace the rollers in the secondary that delaminated themselves after the first two years) I am sure it has seen better days. Would a Dura-Clutch wear the same way, better or worse?
That varying is what helped you. But also you are the luckiest human alive, that model's secondary fails a lot.
Thanks for the info as I wasn't aware.
I have a RZR 900 that I went from stock 26s to 28s. Still has plenty of low end but wondering if i need to modify my clutches. Thank you!
Depends on how you ride it and if you have a complaint
@@Hunterworks i’m happy with the performance so I’m going to run it until something starts to wear out and then I will hit you guys up. Thank you for all your videos and help.
@@ONxONExWHEEL Sounds good and you are welcome!!!
Excellent vid. Totally agree. In my experience with sleds, when I used to do a ton of groomed trail riding with my kids and followed the posted speed limits (50kph/30mph) I could destroy a clutch and secondary in one season!
Must have had Arctic cats.
Well all the car and suv vehicles with cvt transmission are screwed, I know they have metal belts
Different kind of CVT, no rubber band, no flyweights rollers etc
So what's the fix? What if I want both off road fun and high speed long distance ?
buy a honda I guess. Or a trailer I honestly can't say.
These are driven by a rubber belt? When I was a kid our mini bikes had a belt.
Wish i would have saw this before buying my Kingquad 750. I intended to drive on road to hit the trails but not now.
I have aKRX with 1500 miles,no problems yet ,ride mostly trails, with 2 or 3 highway miles to get to other trails.When riding trails10 mps or quicker I stay n high gear ,am I wrong ??
maybe, the KRX is so low geared that the secondary stays closed so much, it is great trail machine but that steady state higher speed is rough on it.
My ranger 800 has a whine that starts around 25 mph or so, quiets down around 35 and then gradually gets louder and louder the faster I go. If I let off throttle, it immediately goes away, if I touch throttle it comes back. I find myself having to get to 35 or so and keep that speed so it’s bearable to go from point a to b. Any suggestions on what to look at?
Doubt it is clutching but would have to swap them out to say 100% but sounds more like a bearing noise to me
@@Hunterworks bearing within the clutches or elsewhere?
@@GoonOps sorry, transmission
I HAVE A 2006 GRIZZLY 660 S.E. THAT I TRAIL RIDE AND USE FOR DEER HUNTING HERE IN ALABAMA, I LIFT THE FRONT WHEELS OFF THE GROUND SOMETIMES AND RACE WITH MY FRIENDS, I STILL HAVE THE ORIGINAL O.E.M. BELT 👍
What would you classify a wildcat 700 as a tool for? Also any advice to keep the thing reliable?
Same as any CVT vehicle, everything but constants speed. That is a sport oriented machine so faster trail riding would be where it works best
That's good information that probably isn't considered by most
Agreed, we want peoples vehicles to last and help pick the right vehicle for the job
@@Hunterworks I have a 06 Polaris sportsman 800 and I do mostly sport/trail riding o have only ripped up 1 belt because of front brakes locking up I have a Dayco in it now what belt would suit my style of riding. I don't do mudding on this quad but my friend does on a 2011 800
@@georgehuffert1800 I would use the polaris oem on that one, we do not offer a belt for it.
whats the best brand for a workhorse. Like a General or something.
I would not consider a general work vehicle but would be close to a ranger just smaller bed
This is why i own Jeep XJ's. They do everything a SxS will, has an enclosed cabin, road legal and a literal fraction of the cost
Not in my book, too high and too heavy, gets stuck easy and tear up too much trying not to get stuck. I own a jeep and it has its place for sure so it depends on what you are doing. My jeep can't do what I do with our machines at all.