604 Teardown Inspection
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- In this video, i teardown a chrysler 604 transmission, that was going into failsafe and then not moving foward. Since the problem was with 2nd,which is also failsafe, that is why it stipped moving until the car was turned off then started again.
I watched through this whole video just to remind myself that i don't have the skill to do this. I attempted to rebuild a GM metric 200 many years ago and gave up. Quality rebuilders earn every dime! Very detailed, thank you.
Thanks for watching, It is a specialty
Gary you are a REAL mechanic. Thank you.
Thank you Ab, thanks for watching
I almost convinced myself that I could do this! Gary you know your stuff, and you must have a photographic memory.
Doing this type of work a long time
i have a immaculate 1990 plymouth acclaim (besides the 604, obviously) and i cant believe how desirable they are right now. im having a shop do the rebuild 1 because warranty and 2 i dont have the time to. the only reason i have that much faith in the car is because the 30 year old AC compressor still blows at 44 degrees. its a great low mile car with decades left in it
That's great, keep her going
Without a slide-hammer, you can just screw a bolt into the 2 threaded holes 180 deg apart, evenly, and they will push against the housing to push the oil pump out. Mine is a 2002 AWD, so a pain unbolting it from the engine with the transfer case in the way. I did it once when I replaced a cracked flex-plate 8 yrs ago and rebuilt the tranny myself since it was out of the car, but removal is frustrating me this time, like an attachment bolt I can't find. Not even a little fuzz on the magnet of this one, so the steel plates are barely worn. I followed the step-by-step ATSG manual, but Gary knows every detail by heart.
I've done my fair share of 604's
Very good video my 2008 town and country has the same problem, when I slow or stop I have to restart in order to move again. I thought it might have been my solenoid pack so I changed that, transmission fluid, filter and oil. Now I am thinking on doing exactly what you have shown here in this video. Thanks for the insight on this video.
Is it still doing the same thing?
Thanks for the quick reply, Gary. Yes, there is an Autozone here. I can scan the ECM with my OBDII scanner, and get P0700 and P0733. At one time there was P0720, output speed sensor, and for $20 it was low-lying fruit to throw one of those in there, although the code was gone by the time I did that...but there was no improvement. I can't scan the TCM, and neither can my shop. But there's the noise in P and N.
gary thanks for a great teardown,inspection video
I overhauled my 41TE 1997 DGC, (with 270K km, I'm the 2nd maybe 3rd owner, and my first car in Canada and no budget for shop overhaul). It has downshift bump when bought it and after a year of careful use and maintenance (tranny & engine change oil), it went to "limp mode". It will not shift to 2nd or 3rd but has the reverse. The code (I can't remember the #) says "internal mechanical issue". I replaced all plates, clutches, rings, 2 speed sensors, UD clutch, checked/cleaned/flushed the solenoid body, torque converter, pump, new ATF+4 but re-use the old solenoid pack. Before that I tested this SP and the ohms are good within specs. The reason is I can still replace it later if the downshift bumps persist. After the overhaul, all codes were gone but the bump is still there, just like the tranny was before the limp-mode. After running some +300km., I replaced the SP with new Wagner. The van works well smoothly during road test but reverts to its old bumps today just after some 50 km. What else should I need to check/do to remove the bumps, there's no code. I know that if I these bumps continue, it will to totally erase the spline of the sun and planetary gear assembly. I found out this was the reason why the tranny went on "limp-mode", because the assembly was no more mechanically connected and not driving the shaft due to total loss of spline. I replaced this assembly in the overhaul and did the air clutches test with good results. I have not yet tried the re-learn by scanner. Please help. I love this van. Thank you for reading and advise.
first thing to do is a quick learn, if you know someone with a scan tool get the C.V.I data, let me know what the numbers are before and after the quick learn. Did you take the low/reverse piston out from the back of the case?
Thanks Gary for your helpful video. Nice (working) T-shirt too!
Thanks for watching
Thanks Gary , you are an artist
tracycolorado Thank you for the kind words and thanks for watching. Gary
Amazing video, thanks for taking the time to make it.
You make this tear-down look so easy, that I feel stupid to even ask a question...
Here goes...
I recently changed the filter, and fluid, in my 2002 town and country... After driving it a bit, I noticed a pan seal leak that just wouldn't stop, so I pulled the pan again to do a more thorough job on cleaning, to gain a real good seal... While doing so, I noticed the filter seemed very loose, or free to move up, and down... No resistance at all.
So I pulled it, only to discovered the filter o-ring is gone. I know I put it on the filter before installation, and was very surprised to not see it. Not in the pan, not in the fluid, not in the intake port, just gone. The only thing I can think of, is that it got sucked through the valve-body intake port? But I can't see it, or feel it with my finger.
Is this possible? How bad is this? Your thoughts...
Did you put a pan gasket or use the RTV to seal the pan? As far a the o-ring for the filter, I had never seen that happen, maybe a small piece of the o-ring ive seen jam a valve but not the o-ring going into the valvebody. That is very strange, your sure it was there?
Thanks for responding!
I originally used the pan gasket that came with the kit, and just couldn't get it to seal properly. I've since just used RTV, and no leaks.
As far as the o-ring... I know I put it on the new filter, and pushed the filter firmly into place. Unfortunately the plastic filter tabs that are suppose to hold the filter up, didn't fit tightly into the valve body, so it sagged on the side away from the o-ring. The sagging side, was the side of the pan that I attached first.
I'm just guessing from here, but I think the pan must have bumped into the filter during pan installation? Given the extra space allowed by the new pan gasket, the o-ring side of the filter may have dropped just enough to have the ring slip off the filter tube, and move into the space between the filter tube, and valve body intake seat. As I tightened the pan down, it could have helped push the o-ring even further, possibly all the way past the seat. When I started it, the pump sucked it in?
If the tube on the filter was just a half, to an inch longer, or the new o-ring had a ridged core, this wouldn't even be possible.
Does the path to the pump narrow enough to stop passage of an entire o-ring?
Will the pump shred it into a million pieces, or would it pass intact?
Yes, i dont think the o-ring would fit, but not 100% sure of that. You always use RTV on that pan, there is no raised area for the pan to seal on, its just 2 flat surfaces
Gary - just picked up a '98 van with this trans, similar to your symptoms above. However, this one has no reverse, plus based on the previous owner's description, no 2nd. They would get a neutral condition in the middle of an intersection. Ok in 1st. No current codes because they cleared them, and I can't really safely drive this to see what happens in 2nd. I'll have it apart by Monday. Should be an interesting one.
Thanks
keeping the pieces in line as u take them out makes it easier installing them, instead of mixing up the parts, great pointing out of snap rings, u can always bag and tag as u go, thanks
Thats what i did when these first came out
I noticed that when you took this apart, that it had no sprags, or bands. I worked on 404, and 670 three speed transmissions, but never did any of these. I replaced one that somebody else rebuilt, I had to go through a break in procedure, because the rebuilder wanted me to do this because the apply rate of the old transmission would have been to fast for the new one, and could ruin the trans in a hurry.
This 604 or 41TE is the first spragless transmission, it's clutch to clutch shifting. After overhaul you need to perform whats called a quick learn to reset the trans back to basic settings
Great video Gary. Really appreciate you sharing your time and skills. I have a 02 eplorer tranny that I'm about to rebuild and need help to get a set of jig for the servo bores. I also would like to know where I can purchase the rebuild kits as well. I look up your shop info and if you wasnt that far i gaurs tee this job would definately be yours. Thanks for sharing your years of experience, knowledge and skills with us. Greatly aprreciated.
+Travis Smith Hello, The tooling for the servo bores, and the parts you need for the rebuild you can get from Transtar, the web address is WWW.transtar1.com . Where are you located?
Lifesaver
Loved your video. I'm in to transmission so I'm starting with watching videos. Thank you. I have my dodge with same A604
Thanks for watching
@@GaryFerraro is there any book about the A604 from a 2008 dodge avenger?
@@uniqueone1653 If you go online to a company called ATSG(automatic transmission service group) they have a book store, i'm sure they have a manual on this trans
@@GaryFerraro thank you!
Amigo sos un maestro gracias por la info
Thanks for watching
There's nothing wrong with the transmission in my PT Cruiser but I enjoyed watching this.
Thanks for watching, please subscribe
Hi Gary thank you for this video. I'm now tearing down 1997 Dodge Gran Caravan. I wonder if you have video on putting them back together?
I like your video I watch it over and over because I have a 604 in my 2005 neon that I change the filter and trans fluid every 2 years, but it has fail on the free way and it just stop shifting I had it tow home and pulled out 700, 715, & 732 codes I hope its just the valve body I have to replace and also a new shift solenoid I buy all my parts for the trans at Rock Auto thanks for Sonnax trans parts I learn from you
Ok, i see you have code P0715, this is the input speed sensor, the P0715 code will make P0732 show up, the first thing i would do is change the input speed sensor. This sensor goes bad in 2 ways, the sensor itself shorts out or the wires break at the connector. So first get a new sensor and clear all the codes out see how it is.
Hello gary, quick question, you are saying that the pressure plate in the drum is not suppose to move (come to think of it its a dumb question i guess) but what if you have side to side movement? and no up and down movement. would that cause any codes? im getting a code 46 3/4 shift abort. never had this code at all, oil looks good. only thing i notice is that the pressure plate moves side to side. and the first snap ring on it is flat, actually both are flat. thanks in advance gary.
La paz sea con ustedes. Me gustaría explicar algunas cosas. ¿La ubicación de la válvula difiere de un lugar a otro? Quitamos las válvulas y las volvimos a colocar en un lugar no especificado y no funcionó. La válvula tiene una letra A Y letras B donde pongo A donde pongo B Por favor explique la instalación por favor, gracias
You are a transmission God.
Thanks Xeno, and thanks for watching
I watched this video over and over again.
I have a 91 Caravan, 3.0 / 604 trans, probably ran low on fluid by the previous ownor.
So i talked to our only rebuilder over here in Austria...good guy, but never heard of the cross pin problem, never heard of the one piece bushing solution...
I wonder if i can buy a reman unit from you, you seem like the only one who REALLY knows what he's doing 🤔
Im sorry i do not have these trans for sale, i have no stock LOL. Maybe i should move there, i may do well. Cross pin coming out is common, later units have the "bat wings" installed because it was happening so much, One piece bushing prolongs life of the O/D clutch
@@GaryFerraro Haha okay, thank you :)
Yeah i ordered a grooved pin including the batwings and a Sonnax one piece bushing 👍🏻
Anything to look for in the valve body too?
@@Minivan_Man Just watch the check balls should be 3 or 4 of them, make sure all valves are free. There is one valve that has no spring just floats, this is the switch valve, make sure that moves freely
@@GaryFerraro Thank you sir 🙏👍🏻
Hi Gary,
When reviewing my previous question about the tiny dot hole on the 2-4 piston housing, the second sentence should not be there. instead it should be at the 3rd paragraph referring to Low-Reverse piston housing. Sorry for the confusion.
No worries my friend
My A604 is working great, thank you for your guidance. I had to reseal the sump pan right away (second time is a charm) I noticed silver speckles in the oil pan (not on magnet, aluminium?) with less than 20 miles. A concern or somewhat normal Break-in debris?
Any difference on a 2004 Chrysler T&C AWD minican?
Hello, I am from Iraq. I have a malfunction inside the automatic electric bellows, the size is 604. I installed it, but I want a clip of how to install the bellows parts for a 1995 Dodge Chrysler car.
Hi Gary i am a recent subscriber and really impressed with your work and great video showing the 604 Tear down and inspection.
i have five 2004 dodge neons, (we live out in the country and have 3 kids in college) so over the last few years as the cars are now 16 years old, i have had problems with two of the transmissions and since i was able to get cheap parts-cars at the time i bought 2 more neons for parts (yup a total of 7 dodge neons, five running)
i changed out the trani on the two problem cars but kept the removed 604;s knowing that i would find someone like you and be able to fix these.
I have watched this video and another (Gregg's 41TE) three times each - do you have a video of the 604 going back together? - i am not too sure about just "doing it all in reverse"
Great posting, i sure like it when you stop and point out important items "this bevel goes up" i can tell you know the pit-falls of reassembly it is clear in your voice.
Hello and thank you for subscribing. I do not have a rebuild video yet(very hard for me to do that, shop is always busy) There is a company called ATSG(automatic Transmission Service Group) they have a manual on this unit, should be tear down and reassembly. Thanks for watching, any questions just let me know
@@GaryFerraro Your awesome Gary, thanks for your fast reply, i will take your advice and get the manual. Thanks.
@@r.b.l.5841 ok, any questions just drop me a line
@@GaryFerraro I pulled the 604 apart yesterday on the bench, followed you step by step, and all went well. (Thanks!)
Like this one, my 604 had a broken snap ring at the UD/OD reaction plate snap ring, although it was in three pieces, these were still set into the grove and had not moved anywhere, yet.
For the re-install I have the 604 Automatic Transmission Rebuilders' Assoc 112 page manual.
During removal of the valve body i noticed the Range sensor is cracked, but aside from this all the mesh-gear,pump gears are in perfect condition, just the clutches seem worn thin.
I am considering changing the clutches, snap rings, by-pass valve, all seals, bearings, speed senors, filter, and a new range sensor. - do you recommend anything else be changed while this is all opened up? Any advice is appreciated.
Gary do you think its alright working with the transmission fluid bare handed? Is it really safe for your body?
Well, i think certain people's body may react to it in certain ways, i usually do not wear gloves and so far i'm ok.
Thanks so much for the video. You said the rear planetary gear pins shouldn't have play, correct. Mine have a lot, I think one is broken. My second problem is I found half a metal ring, ( looks like a bushing maybe, definitely not a snap ring). I'm hoping the broken one is behind the planetary, as I have not found remnants anywhere. My questions are, is there a workaround for the clip ring special tool-another cheaper.
I think the van ran over something, could this have cause the problem. The van would drive until the trans got warm then it was like it was in neutral. I was replacing the filter when I found metal.... then tear down. I really don't want to to a lot of money in this, so I'm hoping I can just replace the planetary gear and bushing (that I can't find) and don't even know if it is a bushing. p.s. Its my van. backyard fun......
Hello, the planet gears should not rock side to side, if you want to send me a picture of the broken piece maybe i can identify for you. My E-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com
Laymon Salyer yes, planet pins should not rock side to side, as far as the bushing goes, maybe send me a picture of it and I can I'd it for you. My e mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com
thanks for your answer. I will not be towing an RV any more.......do you think that i damaged any part of my transmission? I intend on keeping my Grand Caravan for a long time. thanks for your help.....
Well, i think your ok, but if you want to do something, bring it to a trans shop and let them check the fluid level and the condition of the fluid. This trans has a filler tube but no dipstick. If you wanted to do something, have the transmission serviced, that would be changing the filter and fluid, that cant hurt only help.
Hi Gary,
I'm overhauling my A604 41te (1997 D.G.Caravan), I noticed there's a tiny dot hole on the housing of 2-4 piston, created by a pressed dot. This is not the supply hole located in-between the 2 bolt hole. I checked it against light and there's a hole. Is this the normal design? Can I re-use it? I'm concern of pressure loss due to this tiny hole. Thanks a lot for your advice.
The trany went limp-mood at 272,000 km after gently using it for 1 year. (I'm the 3rd owner). The symptoms before that was little slippage and bump down to 2nd shift even on new ATF+4 . The steels, rings, especially the frictions are still good as I can still see the "thread marks" on them. The code, which I forgot already, says internal mechanical problem. The trany shop I went to did some testing and concluded an overhaul at $1,500, hence this DIY.
In the overhaul kit I bought, the Low-Reverse piston housing has this tiny pressed-dot too but no hole on it. The original part has no pressed dot. Unfortunately, the 2-4 piston housing is not included in the kit.
I also noticed that heat marks (dis-coloration) on the parking gear of the rear planet. The upper circumference about 1/2" from the teeth are dark/burnt compared to lower part to the center. Was this overheating? The 3 small bolts holding the L/R piston housing were relatively easy to loosen when they were supposed to be threadlocked (loctite). Do you think this is why I got the limp mood? If not, what do you think is the cause? I'm sure your thousand of viewers will also benefit on your advice.
Thanks again Gary.
That small pressed dot is a bleed hole, some have them and some do not, but if yours does put that back, it is made that way. If you want to send any pictures
for me to lok at any parts, my e-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com
HI Gary, I drove my 2014 grand Caravan ( maximum towing capacity 3600 pounds) from Houston to Indianapolis and back towing a 3600 pound RV? Do you think that i harmed my 6 speed transmission .........I am a watcher of your excellent videos..thanks
Did you have any lights come on during your road trip like a check engine light or maybe trans overtemp? How many miles on your car?
Hello again Gary, I have a question that has to do with identifying my tranny. This is a 05 T&C 3.3L, is it a 604 or a 41TE? In reseaching this, I see they are referred to as being one and the same! Also, you are probrably correct, in that the spider gears may be at fault. Also, to repair or work on the spider gears/differential, does the transmission have to be removed from vehicle? Thx.
604 and 41TE are the same. The 604 was so bad, they renamed it to 41TE, Trans will have to come out, i don't Believe the diff can come out
THANK YOU!!!!!!!
Thanks for watching
What would be the first 3 things to check when no revers on that trans? Thanks
hook up a scan tool, scan for codes and check the C.V.I values
hi gary I'm rebuilding one of this and I noticed that the transfer shaft gear & output gear there diffrent sizes.Does the small size goes to the rear planet, or the biggest sizes?
I think its the smaller one, but do this, one will fit and one will not fit, try each one, put it aginst the bearing race and see which one fits the best
OK I will as now the trans won't shift in any gear it its only due to speed sensor that will be great
You had a code for that, so you really have to start there
Hi Gary, thank you for the videos you are sharing. They are very informative and saves a lot of money for me. BTW, what sealant would you recommend fro the transmission pan? Thanks and hope to hear from you.
I use black silicon, no gasket
Thanks Gary. More power!
welcome
Where are you throwing the bolts?
thanks for your respond tofollow up on my 2014 grand Caravan trip towing a 3600 camper to indianapolis from Houston. I did not get any trouble light on engine and no overheating. the van runs fine now I have 14000 miles.do you think that i harmed the transmission ? thanks
You should be ok if no lights came on. How often will you be towing the camper?
Thank you
Thanks for watching Brad. Please subscribe to my channel and any transmission questions you have just let me know
I am stupid that part with the accumulators was higher, and I had already removed them. Still trying to find where that small metal U goes.
if you can send me a pic, gsferraro@yahoo.com
how do you remove the valve body if the shift shaft is STUCK in park??? please help
Disconnect the linkage at the trans, see if it will move
Back at you once more Gary...perhaps you could clarify something. So I know there are 'old' 2-digit TCM codes and the newer codes beginning with P...my Mitchell book shows the 2-digit codes. So for example the old code 36 corresponds with the new P1790 , fault immediately after shift. So is the 2-digit code accessed by flashing the CEL? Is that something I can do? Or was the old 2-digit code simply how the DRB Mopar scanner read it and I would still need to find a shop that has the right scanner? Thanks, D.
The early models(non-OBD) had a blue diagnostic connector for a scanner to hook up(1995 and down) The connector is located under left side of dash
Hmm...my book is for '98, and wasn't '89-'95 A604 OBDI? Anyway, sounds like I still need a shop to pull TCM codes. BTW, you are a total star...I see you are on every forum with tranny tech.
Douglas McDonald what codes are you getting?
Not working on one right now, but will be. Just getting prepared.
Great video. am doing my first tear down, and it is the same transmission. I was wondering did you record the rebuild? I have never rebuilt a transmission before. However, I can't afford the 1800.00 to 2200.00 to pay someone. SO, I removed it from my Pt Cruiser, and that wasn't anywhere near as hard as I thought. I did make a bad mistake. The video I watched said there were three torque converter bolts. I took out three and lowered my jack, and the transmission appear to be loose. Lower my jack a little more but the torque converter didn't seem to be releasing. Damn id there wasn't four bolts and not three bolts. Removed that fourth bolt and got the transmission out easily. How do I know if I damaged the flywheel or torque converter?
How did you do? Just curious if you got it back together.
Are there upgraded parts available for these transmissions?
There may be Alto Red clutches and kolene steels if alto has them, other than that i would say no
I am rebuilding my transmission and mine is out of a pt cruiser. I think it is the same. At 16:22 of the video you remove the part that has to be in low and is under the transmission oil pan. you removed two accumulators. Mine has the holes but no accumulators. Also a square shaped U piece of metal fell out and I didn't see where from. It is only about 5/8 inch square and U shaped. I have no idea where it goes. Help would be greatly appreciated
That part is the valvebody that i removed. Can you send me a picture of the part that fell out on you, you can e-mail me, gsferraro@yahoo.com Gary
What’s the part number on that special tool for the trans?
what time in the video am i using it?
Do you have insight why so many 31TH and 41TE 's fail?
The 41TE has gotten better but when they first came out, was a very poor design
What rebuild kit do you recommend?
TransTec
Thanks for the video, it was very informative. How much does this transmission weigh, and what would be the minimum clearance height for getting it out from under a Dodge grand caravan chassis?
Trans , maybe 80 pounds(just a guess) I asked one of my installers, he said the trans is a little tight coming out because of brackets on the frame, when the trans is on the jack, and all mounts are off, to get the trans down, he said to pull it foward towards the front of the car because of the brackets on the frame, so it is alittle tight
Gary Ferraro yeah, the diff housing basically rests up against the subframe so i had to pull it forward as i was lowering it, then put it on its side to get it out. It was strapped to a tranny jack adaptor and 3 ton suv jack.
I have a 95 dodge avenger with this trans that was replaced with a used trans. Its not doing anything in any gear?
This is right after installation?
so the valve body doesnt have to be removed to replace the clutches, is that correct?
The input drum will come out, but there is a seal inbetween the valvebody and center support, its alittle hard to get the center support out with that seal in place
Hi my 2005 Pacifica started shifting hard in second while on the road. It began slipping in second gear and would fail safe and not pull before I could get home. I did a fluid and filter change. I found a piece of snap ring in the pan magnet. It will not pull in second gear. 1st, 3rd, and reverse gears work fine. Can I assume mine has the same condition as the one in this video? Probably a snap ring broke and cut the o ring? Thanks for the video. It really helps to see a visual of what can go wrong.
more than likely i would say yes, pretty common issue
Gary Ferraro thanks
Welcome.
Gary good evening, have a question for you, want to know your opinion on a 604 with no lock up, well sometimes it has a partial lock up but never a full lockup, so I rebuilt this unit like 4 months ago, changed everything even solenoids, to day it came in with a code 38 lock up control, and test drove it and yes no lock up at all, so I went ahead and changed the valvebody, and still no lock up, did notice a leak near the torque converter, what can cause this problem? Has this happened to you? Greetings Gary, great videos!
Anytime i had that code i traced it to be either valvebody or pump problem. also, right behind the pump in the case is the bypass valve, it is a ball and spring, make sure the ball is free and not stuck
@@GaryFerraro alright, great, guess I was on the right track, thanks Gary. I'm thinking it might be the pump, I did change the valvebody, and like I said I noticed a leak right under the rear main seal, thinking maybe pump bushing, pump or converter might be bad. Thanks again Gary.
@@arturocortezsantana99 if you have the pump out, check the bypass valve too
Ok, i don't have the unit out yet until tomorrow, is there a special way to check the bypass valve?
I'd love to hear your professional answer....99' Caravan 3.3, 85k miles, fluid changed twice (1000 miles between) at 64k when i purchased it.
New solenoid pack, quick learn done but shifts very hard from 4 to 3, upshifts are fine...any ideas?
Thanks for the great videos, what a machine you are!
Kevman sounds like you have access to a scan. Can you go into transmission data and look for CVI display and tell me what the numbers are
Gary Ferraro Yes sir, a friend of mine quick learned my trans, i'll ask him and keep you updated, thanks a lot and greetings from Austria
Greetings from New York, The CVI number is internal wear, if i know the numbers that would help
Gary Ferraro Alright got it, clutch volume index, dealer told me those TCU do not write such data down....well, not my guy in this case, back to my scrapyard pro and his scan tools...
The values will be in the scan tool, what are you using snap-on scan tool
Hi Gary, thank you for doing this.
@34;48 on the pump disassembly you commented that" the part has four rings and that will be changed" Were you saying that the four ring hard part was to be changed (an upgrade perhaps) or just that the four o-rings were to be, of course, changed...
Just the 4 sealing rings
Thank you Gary. Where is your shop?
When I get it all back together, what do I need to do in order to get close to three gallons of fluid it?
What about the trans control module? Does that need to be cleared, programmed or addressed somehow?
im in New York on Long Island, Were are you located? You may have to do a quick learn to reset the clutch packs
I am a Massapequa boy who has been in Florida since 1989. Great videos, thank you for your experience and sharing this information. ▬ I just got it apart and found the input shaft assy reverse frictions were worn on the inside (facing steels only). Other than that I see no other faults (except found broken tapered snap ring #159 low/reverse plate ) in position but broken none the less. ▬ I am going all the way with a Mopar master kit and Mopar reman TC, also installing new pump bushing just because I'm trying to do it right... This is mom's 02 minivan (a Lynbrook girl) with 114K miles, it ran and shifted fine except, no reverse (slips). Any other particular points to pay attention to? You are the master... Cheers! ▬ Yes, I have access to a scanner to reset the torque converter to new and quick learn. Thanks.
My Home town is Massapequa, i was on Florence Ave by the beach. Bet you miss All American and Mr Softee (LOL)
Mr Ferraro, I need help.i'm dealing with the problem as you mention.my 604 trans "it was rebuilt few years ago,but the warranty ran-out.no burnt fluid,just winding noise. I opened it up alittle' i was afraid to dissect it, like you did,because of memory issues,lol. but didn't see anything bad except at the bottom of the pan it was like aluminum glitter just alittle bit and around magnet had a 1/2 teaspoon of fine steel sticken on it.the lower area where the power pak mounted there's is 4-5 little hex screw's' what's the purpose for them ?.also is there a way flush & check the T-converter ?and if you can look at the youtube video called (Problems with A604 41TE Transmission ?)to see if this true .
Allyn, The 4-5 hex screws, do they screw into the case of the trans? There really isnt a way to flush the converter, but what can be done is, either pull the return line off the trans, start it and the fluid will pump out(but keep adding), or drop the pan a few times. I will check out that video and give you my thoughts on that. The winding noise your getting, does it change with engine pitch(what i mean is, if you rev the engine does the noise change or stay the same and does it make the noise in all ranges(park, rev, neu,drive). Gary
The noise starts when it's trying to shift into 2nd gear.Hex screw's are below the solenoid pack.
The hex screws below the solenoid pack are plugs, you would take the plug out and screw in a pressure gauge. Does the noise happen all the time or just when the car is hot?
Mr Ferraro, Sometimes the noise happen when you first throw into drive or reverse when its cold. and sometime no noise' it take's off into 123 and 10 minute later then jump into limp mode.but lately its gotten worse just staying into limp mode.it make me think it's a electrical issue.but I really don't know what wrong.
Can you have the transmission scanned for codes? If you can ask if the C.V.I values can be read(this shows internal wear.
and if u never done it before and dont have the tools, buy a rebuild trans and put it in, sure bet it will work, its not easy, tiny little things can screw it up
Yes sir, you are correct
Hi Gary, my old man has recently rebuilt one of these transmissions and everything would be great if reverse would go backward not forward... do you have any idea what would cause this? The poor guy is going out of his mind trying to sort it out. Your professional opinion would be greatly appreciated.
Paul Cie what happens in neutral and drive range?
@@GaryFerraro thanks yor the reply.
Neutral works as intended. drive is also fine but reverse is also forward
Worked it out mate. Thanks anyway
@@paulcie1925 What did you find, linkage issue?
@@GaryFerraro It was actually the differential gearing causing on wheel to go forward and the other backward as the wheels were elevated at the time... My dad panics when he puts a fair amount of work into something and it doesn't work as intended. :)
Okay, both planets blew up. The stuff in the input drum looks almost new. Still gotta pull the 2/4 and L/R but I suspect they'll be fine. This thing was pampered and has 90K on it. I guess the pre-load procedure for the rear planet is super important? Maybe that's what causes some of the failures but ATRA says if you get it wrong it could blow up ON THE TEST DRIVE! For the life of me I still can't see the bevel on those two snap rings. Do you replace the torque converter bolts? Thanks.
I do not replace the bolts, if you do make sure they are not to long. there may have been a bearing that failed that took the planets out. The snap rings in the input drum?
Yeah, the upper one for the plate that goes between OD and UD. Same thing in the case. I'll pay better attention when I pull the one in the case tomorrow.
The one in between the UD and OD is usually sold plate and snapring set
Gary - please advise if you set the bearing pre-load with a selective shim on the output shaft when you change the rear planet or any of the other parts that change the geometry. Or do you simply re-use the original shim? Thanks
@@douglasmcdonald3083 I've always reused original shim
whats the torque specs
Hi Gary, I'm thinking to rebuild my A604 41TE. Shifting is hard when hot, specially in the traffic, no problem when car is cold. I changed filter, fluid(found some 1/8" metal shavings in the pan) and Shift Solenoid but did not help. After that I did already 20k miles but not changes so far, no batter no worse.
Where I heed to pay attention and where those metal shavings came from? And I can hear high pitch noise from it, probably pump?
thanks!
OK, couple of questions, Have you had it scanned for codes and is your check engine light on? the high pitch noise you hear, do you hear it in all ranges(park reverse neutral and drive)? does the noise change with engine rpm?
I did some investigation. Sound is not always there, but most of the time(does not mater if cold or hot). If i'm not moving I have it on P and N, but not sound on driving mode and reverse. If i'm driving slowly and not accelerating I have it sometimes too. Looks like if torque converter on some stress no sound :) On higher RPM I can't hear ir because of engine noise and with higher speed also can't hear it. Sometimes sound very intense but sometimes barely can hear it. Best to hear it is outside the car, if i'm inside so practically implausible with city noise,
No check engine light. I'm planning to scan for transmission codes this week.
Fluid after 20k miles still red and clear, no burning smell.
No any codes. Could it be valvebody? Found in internet that valvebody could be stuck :/ But why shifting is ok on cold trany?
Question, what type of scanner do you have, may have to get into data to read C.V.I Values(clutch volume index)
Autel MD802 with Chrysler software installed.
LR CVI 43
2-4 CVI 46
OD CVI 107
UD CVI 47
What does it mean?
Hi! My Lebaron locks into 2nd gear if I change gears (stop or reverse while engine running) It works normally if I just drive forward. The problem goes away if I shut the engine. Could it be just an electrical issue? Solenoid? Also probably a different issue: the reverse gear is very slow to engage, so if I put it on reverse after driving, i need to wait a little before i press gas so I dont break it. Ideas?
Do you have any codes? Does the car go into failsafe(2nd gear) then when you shut the engine, it drives again?
I do actually, I forgot!
22: 2-4 press. Switch circuit,
26: LR/ 2-4 press. Switch circuit and
39: Gear ratio error. Any analysis what might've happened? Thanks!
Ok, next question, what type of scanner to you have, the good thing about this trans is you can tell if the trans is worn internally by looking at a number called C.V.I(Clutch volume index) also, what year is the car.
The first 2 codes are probably a bad solenoid pack, the 3rd code, the computer sees the trans slipping, thats why i would like to know the c.v.i values
The code reading was done in a shop a year ago and sadly the receipt doesn't show those values. The car is -90 and the engine is -89. The solenoid is easy to replace right? But the gear ratio error has to be something worn internally or can some procedures help diagnose without disassembly? The code reading was pretty expensive so I don't want to do that again :D
yes, the pack has been updated, do you know if the updated pack is on the car,? was any transmission work done?
Hi Is a 41TL the same as a 604 thanks. Jeff in uk
Yes, It's actually a 41TE
@@GaryFerraro Thank you
Hey Gary, i have the same a604 transmission. My problem is the reverse doesn't pick up speed when I raise rpms but if left at idle the car will start move back but no response to a raise in rpm. I just changed the solenoid pack and still no luck. Any clue to what this problem might be?
either the reverse clutch is no good or the low/reverse clutch is no good. How are the forward gears?
Thanks for the reply! It drives fine toward through all the gears. Highway speeds as well
@@Drpapo1 sounds like a bad clutch pack
@@GaryFerraro thank you I was gonna try the vavle body but couldn't find a relation to that and the problem im having. First thought was the clutch pack seeing how it acting like a slipping torque converter. But drives fine foward.
@@Drpapo1 Sounds like the reverse clutch, which is the first clutch pack in the input drum, the reverse has 2 clutches and 2 steel plates
Hi, I have another question. When you have rebuilt these transmissions, what is the correct refill procedure? Since they hold about 8 - 9 quarts and the pan will only hold about half that. I'm ready to start putting my 41te back together, I was wondering how to do this properly and start it up without seizing it or damaging it.
Thanks!
Ran Dome ok. When ready to oil up the trans engine off put 4 to 5 quarts. Then start the car and add the rest. When you start the car the pump will take the 4 or 5 quarts and fill the converter. Use ATF plus 4 With this trans
Gary Ferraro Thanks for that. The diff basically ate itself as the diff pin had seized, the teeth inside are all chipped as is the pinion gear teeth. Had I known that I could've just dropped the subframe and replaced the diff and pinion in situ. But i had to take it all apart just to be 100% sure. But hindsight is a wonderful thing! :)
Carl
Let me know how it goes
Sure. Do you know where I can get a pinion nut for this? The one that holds the transfer gear in place? My service manual warns me in capital letters not to reuse the nut and get a new one...
The big nut on the transfer gear, i honestly never changed that, if it was a critical part,it would come in the overhaul kit, if it's in good shape you can reuse
cool.!
+john CR Thanks for watching
Gracias si podrías poner subtítulos todo ok
Thanks for watching
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You need better lighting.
Got it already, this is older video
thanks
Thanks for watching