Spot on review! (Slicing!!, Comfort!!, strengths, weakness, etc.) Mk 1 overlooked. Missed: Mk 1 handle is small for wider hands (>4"), 1095 Cro-Van. I own both. Mk 1, better choice for general wood/camp/food use. Tough knife. Not a pry-bar ~$54 US. Leather sheath (fits both) ~$10. StrongArm can handle more abuse, doesn't "slice" as well, handle tiresome.
Lars Buskkraft - Yes. ~$65. Knife is beautiful. But, leather sheath is just OK. Black plastic sheath is better for most? I prefer leather & carry a black MK1 in a black leather factory sheath ~$10? Oiled up, it will last forever. Size/shape of blade & handle are the same. Not as grippy as the black Kraton. These are not Scandi ground bushcraft blades. These are tough all around use weapons.
I also have both, but my Mk 1 has the Kraton/rubber handle. I've taken both camping, and find the Mk 1 to be far more useful for "daily" camp activities whereas the Strongarm was more of a task knife, for prying and batoning through knots. Honestly though, most of us likely carry a good folder for slicing and a hatchet for chopping. I certainly see the Strongarm as a good urban bugout knife where you're likely to be prying doors/lockers and pounding it through sheet metal.
The Gerber Strongarm used to be about $40. Once Gerber realized how good it was they raised the price to like $80. Got mine at $40 but it's bullshit that they did that. Might as well spend an extra $20 and get a $100 beast.
I used to like Gerber Knives back in the 80s. In the 90s I had some Gerbers break on me...when I wasn't even really putting much strain on them. I had 2 of their multitools fail on me. I have never used Gerber since. Kabar on the other hand...I've had a M2 kabar fighting knife since I was stationed in the Pacific back in the early 70s. It NEVER, EVER failed or let me down.
@@sopwithcamelus I agree. I don't know what kind of steel Gerber uses, but stainless steels tend to be more difficult to hone under field conditions. People like stainless steel b/c they can get sloppy about maintenance. A good carbon steel knife can be stropped razor-sharp on a leather belt. Yes, it requires more maintenance, but I was taught we are always supposed to maintain our weapons, so what's the problem?
Exactly! Not so ironically it’s from the time before the internet, when guys were outside enjoying life rather than watching videos and “learning” that batonning is something all knives must do for hours on end.
True knives weren't meant to split logs. However I still wouldn't mind having a knife that could be used as an axe in a pinch and a general workhorse the rest of the time. Something like the tops fieldcraft just because it's a tank of a blade.
I'm perfectly happy with my inexpensive. Mora Companion Military Green Stainless. If treated well and with consciousness, it will last a lifetime and is great for the most tasks that I come across with. It is a real all-around tool. For havier tasks, I use my Gränsfors Bruk Small Forest Axe or a small Kukri like machete.
*Here is the Thing* If you use a knife as a knife (i.e. for knife duties) the Ka Bar MK 1 wins easily. If you use a knife as a axe/hatchet (for chopping/splitting wood) the Gerber is better. If you want to save time, energy, and be more effective just get a regular knife like a Mora or puukko and a small axe.
the kabar is tougher than the original leather handle model but it has the same butt cap the gerber is much tougher from butt cap to balde tip thanks for sharing ps : the old kabar leather handle the butt cap will quickly get loose when exposed to water for a long time this will not happen anymore with polymere handle so that's a good thing that makes it tougher than his old brother
7:57 To resheath the blade in scout (back) carry, slide the side of the blade until you feel the point pass the hole, then insert. It's kinda like sheathing a sword. The danger to scout carry is falling and landing on your back can damage your spine, possibly paralyzing. Also, when drawing make sure the knife tip isn't pointing at your body. Point the tip at the ground before bringing knife forward. That way there's no risk of stabbing yourself in the buttocks/thigh... In case you slip or get shoved.
gerber strongarm is ment for field troops, they need a knife to beat the shit out and not care if the tool broke kabar mark 1 was built for the navy guys, they just add it to the belt and forget about it, cause its corrosion resistant and not need to be sharppened every day, and when they need it its razor sharp BOTH ARE THE BEST KNIFE FOR THE JOB
Gerber Strongarm is a military-survival knife, great for Urban missions. Ka-Bar Navy Mark1 was the US war navy knife and it's more a Combat utility knife, rather than survival do it all knife. Mark 1 is a much better quality knife, with more suitable steel for a fixed blade, that it's edge can take a bit more before it ever slightly chips or rolls. They both sharpen easy, the Ka-Bar a bit faster. Gerber doesn't cut or carve as good as the Ka-Bar, not even close. Mark1 can work as a hunting or bushcraft knife, while Strongmarm has a much thicker blade stock and tip that can pry a bit more. I would choose Ka-Bar Mark I with Kraton handle, 9 times out of 10. Strongarm is decent but not even close to Mark I. That's why it used to cost so much less, when it first came out. Thanks to RUclips backyard warriors,that sell knives and people consider them more knowledgable than they are in reallity, the Strongarm now, costs almost as much as the Mark I....RUclips has become a marketing platform.
@@DONK0 Edge Stability, geometry and retention, are all way better on the Ka-Bar and that's what matters. Also, it's robust enough, to do any kind of task. Gerber is way worse on everything, even compared to the Mark1. That's not my opinion, these area facts.
@@DONK0 I wrote in English. I said it's edge. The steel is too soft, that's why it with stands abuse, that if you where a realist, you would admit that no knife will ever see. Either you didn't read what I wrote, or your understanding of that tool, limits to a crazy guys limited knowledge. The reason he likes cheap knives, is because cheap knives are very soft, do you understand at least that?
I own and have used both, the Strong Arm is the hardest knife I’ve had to sharpen. After about 45 minutes On the work sharp I had a very capable 21 degree edge, it splits wood easily due to its blade geometry as it’s a few mm thicker than the mark 1. I used the factory edge on the Mark 1 to split some 1 ft long 2X4’s and did just fine. Despite the 21 degree edge on the Gerber vs the factory 20 degree on the Kabar, the Gerber also produced shavings just as good but maybe not as fine. Both are great knives but out in the field I’d go with the Mark 1 as it’s 1095 CroVan Steel is way easier to sharpen.
Actually you can do whatever you want with that kabar as they have a no questions asked lifetime replacement if you break it lol I was born and raised here in Olean NY where they are made....
I’m from Oregon (used to be proud of it), and Gerber is on the list of anti-hunting businesses. They try to keep that quiet because they make lots of money from the hunting community. Kabar has the history, better steel (I personally love 1095 CV), and are either pro-sportsman or at least politically neutral. I own a LOT of Kabars, and only a couple Gerbers from before the internet and sharing of knowledge.
The Mark 1 is a fighting/ light utility knife where batoning will void the warranty unlike the Strongarm which is a heavy duty bushcraft knife made for it. They're 2 different styles made for different jobs
Also I got the mk1 when it came out and think it is a great knife. Abused it and it took it like a champ. I liked it so much that I bought the stacked leather Handel version.
Indeed. It seems more fragile than it is. It's a great all around camping and woodcraft knife. I like it's stablemate the BK-62 also. Both are great companion knives.
Top notch quality review and comparison of these two knives. Ka Bar appears much more useful, thanks to the good cutting grind and comfortable handle. Gerber almost screams "mall ninja"
Strongarm is a tough knife, see the Joe X video on it. The Ka-bar tang will bend and/ord break . It's weak compared to the Strongarm. Maybe the Strongarm really is a Ninja. And not a mall ninja.
The glass filled navy sheath dulls the edge. I removed the face and added a plastic face and spacer for blade room. Nice farm knife! Navy slices very well!
Great comparison and contrast review. I have the Mark I, and it is a very capable knife. I prefer the 1095 CV, but 420 HC is a good steel for a low cost workhorse. Buck uses it extensively, and really knows how to get the most out of it.
That Gerber sheath straight onto the belt option might work pretty well upside down on the shoulder strap area of a vest or bag, if your speed is high enough and your drag is low enough to warrant it.
I have the mark 1. It's a pretty good knife, although a little light. The back of the blade by the tip is pretty thin. 90° edge on back is not sharp or hard of an angle for fire starters. The grip is great! The sheath is amazing! Absolutely perfect. I have since bought a marakniv black. Great blade but not a great sheath.
Good tip for the mora sheath (yes their sheaths suck which is a shame) feed a piece of bike innertube through the belt clip and then use that as a "retainer" for the blade its a bit of a jerry rigged approach but good for a quick easy fix.
I’d say that although the strongarm isn’t a bushcraft knife, it probably deals better with batonning than most bushcraft knives due to the shape of the blade and the sturdiness of it.
I have had a lot of knives with thermoplastic sheathes especially Cold Steel, where the sheath really dulls the knife as you take it in and out. I would be really interested to know of your experiences with this problem.
these two arent as fitted, and the blades dont really touch the inside - i think its cos they can go in with the edge facing either way. But yeah, I’ve noticed that in the SRK, but only after looking for it
When CS switched to that securex crap, that has more glass fibers in the matrix, they screwed up. I love CS, but there is just no defending that outcome. VirtueorVice did a video talking about a CS and said..."This knife is good...sheath is crap". He is a very understated Japanese gentlemen, master hand sharpener, BARK RIVER collector to the extreme...I laughed for an hour😂. I use my securex for storage whenever possible...but not carry. I don't want the knife dulling with every entry and exit of the item designed to protect it. Having a good kydex made or making them yourself can be an expensive and slow as a koala bear process though.
Old post but here's my experience.... The Strongarm sheath has a different plastic and like Pete said they don't touch the edge so its safe. As for the LMF2 AND PRODIGY sheaths THEY SUCK!! Yes the LMF2 sheath is cool and has lots of options but it dulls your knife instantly. The Prodigy sheath does the same thing BUT from my experience it doesn't touch the edge as bad but yes it still will dull your blade. Personally I think the Strongarm sheath is pretty cool but does have some issues. I've never had the Kbar so I have no idea how their sheaths are but that Mark1 is an awesome stock sheath.
well the strongarm is meant to be a survival knife so of course its gonna have a stronger construction the mark 1 is a sailors knife its just ment to cut soft things like string or food not split wood
There is no comparison between these two knives. The Gerber is made for aircraft crew to puncture aircraft aluminum and to escape and be able to cut through wire without getting electrocuted and the end is made to break the glass. The k-bar is made for Navy crew where we normally have a lot of rope to cut that is why it's better to have a thin blade for rope work. So to compare 2 knives made for two different Armed Forces makes no sense. I was in the Canadian Navy probably before your parents were born.
The MK1 is the cheapest real knife you can get has a fully tapered blade, easily serviced, full flat grind, handle that works all day no hot spots, great jump capable sheath, and a hammer poll. Works hunting, works bush crafting, and was in high demand more than any MK2 in the Pacific theatre as actually worked as a combat blade to slide between ribs and vertebrae things most modern "combat knives" dismally fail at being such thick stock and untapered .. hell in the history of warfare even swords were tapered if they were meant for actual combat like every other bigger blade than handle tool but in an age of guns where blades are for show and prying some forget.
420hc is about 4 times as tough as 1095 (Larrins tests) and it should be due to its composition. Gerber run it softer, Ka bar run their 1095 cro van harder so probably nearer 5 times as tough. Strongarm is actually a great knife and a truly well balanced "defense" knife also.
I bought a strong arm and it had a nice feel. Feels durable but my problem comes from the sheath locking system. The gerber is loose. Wabbles, and just is not secure. Strong arm came in a box. I was also told it could be bootlegged even tho I bought it from the gerber store on Amazon. The ka bar is everything the strong arm is not. Sheath is very secure and does not have any give at all. I have the both. I use the strong arm in my truck for a lot of things sometimes as a pry bar. The ka bar is a knife and only gets used as a knife.
I don't have either one, but would think that the Ka-Bar is a tougher knife and ready for camping situations even though both could do. I have a new Ka-Bar knife and it seems to be great compared to other knives I own.
I own both and I love both . The Strong Arm is a great hard use knife and probably one of the toughest knife out under $100.00 .. But the Kabar is no slouch, its pretty tough knife , remember its was issued to the US Navy during a War , its 1095 Cro Van, its a great bushcraft knife, it's really thin behind the edge , its definitely a better companion knife to pair with a Big Choppa . The only knock on it for me is the small handle , I have XL hands and the butt sits on my pinky, besides that the rubber handle is really comfortable for my other fingers ,ha ha , if it was a 1/2 inch bigger , it would be 1 of my favorites. The Sog NW Ranger in AUS-8 is very similar to it , but I like the 1095CV
I have the same problem and I find that I can use tennis racket handle grip to get it just right and it adds to the comfort and stability since its great with sweaty/wet hands.
Yeah, after age steam of the Navy has had that much use for wood. And out on the ocean the only survival issue we had was trying to digest the ship’s cook daily serving of slops and extremely well done mutton. Only use of knife on a ship is cutting rope and canvas.
We get better deals on US made knives here in the US because they are made here, meaning no international shipping charges or duties/taxes. I am not sure what import taxes you have in Aussie land, but I'm sure there are at least some tariff on them. I am sure something made in Australia, would be cheaper in Australia as well. I appreciate your videos very much. I have used your testing as the basis for a few different purchase choices..for instance, the Strongarm, I got the BDZ1 steel model. Thanks for what you do!
Now that a few years have passed, what is you impression of these items and how would you use them? Do you believe they’re worth owning or are there other items you would recommend instead of? How the knives serving you these days?
i love how you played the game over from mgs 1 while im playing mgs 5... in face mgs 5 made me want a knife i can carry horizontal on my back. it seems like the strong arm is the best option for such use
Nice review, Thanks. Because I don't beat on my knife I find no need for "extreme" strength. I edc an older mk1. Its a one knife does all solution without weighing you down. Don't like the painted blade though.
Strongarm: great sheath system. Not good at anything, but can do almost anything. Actually pretty bad at carving, whittling, cutting and stabbing due to it's geometry. Will cause tissue damage if need to do so arises. I am definitely replacing it after 6 months of use.
I completely respect your testing BUT, I’ve got a Leatherman Wave (420HC) and an Esee 3. I carry the Wave and USE it daily. I sharpen it once a month. The Esee is carried on the weekend and if I open a box and a bag of dog food: I have to resharpen it… What am I missing?
I choosed the «Strongarm», to be My very First Knife, of surviving. ‘Cause all the options. I’m a vet, from serving in Bosnia, and Lebanon. It costed Me, 150 dollars. Buying it in Sweden. That, saved Me, to burn even 50 dollars MOORE… -From buying it, in Norway…
Use the right tool for the job and almost every point is irrelevant and makes the kabar far superior at doing the job a knife is meant to do. Carry a hatchet
slightly off topic.. i just got Marbles Plainsman safe grip from mr. Postman and i am amazedhow great this knife is.. perfectly functional with briliant inconspicouos sheath that begs for open carry EDC cuz it really looks harmless.. like you just have some cordura pouch hanging on your side.. knife is FFG perfect size... there is only 1 review of these on whole of YT... if you could get your hands on one.. i´d love to see your opinions Cedric.. and i also think you could love this knife.. it is really cheap in coated 1095 so far perfect perfect budget fixed blade...
I just, this week bought the Tan handled GERBER PRODIGY at my local wal mart, I been researching and reading up on these knives, the prodigy, according to U tube research is only sold at and was manufactured for sale at wal mart's? They are available in non serrated and half serrated from what I found out, the one I bought is the non serrated which is the one I wanted.
How do you move so fast when you are making a feather stick/cutting? Your forearms must be very strong. I guess its muscle memory from doing it so often. I could never move that fast.
1. Sweet Costa Rica says it best. 2. I want you to create a mental scenario that you are an enlisted man in the Navy. You cutting rope/packages/apples/sandwiches. Then create a scenario where you fending in the woods. Two different knife scenarios. 3. Someone, as usual, pipes in about using an inexpensive Mora. Gosh, when you are in the wild surviving, the skill is in YOU and not the tool. You aren't going to be chopping down trees or using green wood in making a fire. You will be collecting fallen branches, twigs or making a primitive lean to. I have multiples of the Mark 1 with the modern sheath which is used for behind the back carry. My time in the US Army was almost 50 years ago. I am not be hanging out in the woods.
When you wear the Gerber vertically, it's called scout carry and it's supposed to go in the center of your back so it doesn't stick out and easy to reach and re-sheath
Spot on review! (Slicing!!, Comfort!!, strengths, weakness, etc.) Mk 1 overlooked. Missed: Mk 1 handle is small for wider hands (>4"), 1095 Cro-Van. I own both. Mk 1, better choice for general wood/camp/food use. Tough knife. Not a pry-bar ~$54 US. Leather sheath (fits both) ~$10. StrongArm can handle more abuse, doesn't "slice" as well, handle tiresome.
Do you have the leather handle version? How is it?
Lars Buskkraft - Yes. ~$65. Knife is beautiful. But, leather sheath is just OK. Black plastic sheath is better for most? I prefer leather & carry a black MK1 in a black leather factory sheath ~$10? Oiled up, it will last forever. Size/shape of blade & handle are the same. Not as grippy as the black Kraton. These are not Scandi ground bushcraft blades. These are tough all around use weapons.
I also have both, but my Mk 1 has the Kraton/rubber handle. I've taken both camping, and find the Mk 1 to be far more useful for "daily" camp activities whereas the Strongarm was more of a task knife, for prying and batoning through knots. Honestly though, most of us likely carry a good folder for slicing and a hatchet for chopping. I certainly see the Strongarm as a good urban bugout knife where you're likely to be prying doors/lockers and pounding it through sheet metal.
The Gerber Strongarm used to be about $40. Once Gerber realized how good it was they raised the price to like $80. Got mine at $40 but it's bullshit that they did that. Might as well spend an extra $20 and get a $100 beast.
Inflation=bullshit. Ok.
I used to like Gerber Knives back in the 80s. In the 90s I had some Gerbers break on me...when I wasn't even really putting much strain on them. I had 2 of their multitools fail on me. I have never used Gerber since. Kabar on the other hand...I've had a M2 kabar fighting knife since I was stationed in the Pacific back in the early 70s. It NEVER, EVER failed or let me down.
I've known several servicemen who advised that Gerbers were difficult to sharpen in the field and too brittle.
@@sopwithcamelus I agree. I don't know what kind of steel Gerber uses, but stainless steels tend to be more difficult to hone under field conditions. People like stainless steel b/c they can get sloppy about maintenance. A good carbon steel knife can be stropped razor-sharp on a leather belt. Yes, it requires more maintenance, but I was taught we are always supposed to maintain our weapons, so what's the problem?
Good to Know sir! Thanks for the info and comparison!
Your videos are always superior very straight forward and never biased just giving facts and providing good examples. Good job man.
I'd take the Strongarm first, but have to say. The Kabar just balances and feels AMAZING in hand.
I wouldn’t be able to choose but I like the aesthetics’s of the kabar classic fighting/utility knife like the kabar usmc are just cooler to me
The Mark 1 is an actual knife from a long time ago where knives where supposed to cut good and not split logs...
Finest man you sure got a stereotype about batoning
Keep Out , I do occasionally baton some, but he is correct.
Im glad to see a gradual push back on batoning. Batoning was originally a commercial demonstration to sell knives. Selling and survival are different.
Exactly! Not so ironically it’s from the time before the internet, when guys were outside enjoying life rather than watching videos and “learning” that batonning is something all knives must do for hours on end.
True knives weren't meant to split logs. However I still wouldn't mind having a knife that could be used as an axe in a pinch and a general workhorse the rest of the time. Something like the tops fieldcraft just because it's a tank of a blade.
I'm perfectly happy with my inexpensive. Mora Companion Military Green Stainless.
If treated well and with consciousness, it will last a lifetime and is great for the most tasks that I come across with. It is a real all-around tool. For havier tasks, I use my Gränsfors Bruk Small Forest Axe or a small Kukri like machete.
*Here is the Thing*
If you use a knife as a knife (i.e. for knife duties) the Ka Bar MK 1 wins easily.
If you use a knife as a axe/hatchet (for chopping/splitting wood) the Gerber is better.
If you want to save time, energy, and be more effective just get a regular knife like a Mora or puukko and a small axe.
Which mora?
the kabar is tougher than the original leather handle model but it has the same butt cap the gerber is much tougher from butt cap to balde tip thanks for sharing
ps : the old kabar leather handle the butt cap will quickly get loose when exposed to water for a long time this will not happen anymore with polymere handle so that's a good thing that makes it tougher than his old brother
7:57 To resheath the blade in scout (back) carry, slide the side of the blade until you feel the point pass the hole, then insert. It's kinda like sheathing a sword.
The danger to scout carry is falling and landing on your back can damage your spine, possibly paralyzing.
Also, when drawing make sure the knife tip isn't pointing at your body. Point the tip at the ground before bringing knife forward.
That way there's no risk of stabbing yourself in the buttocks/thigh... In case you slip or get shoved.
Thanks for a really informative video, Pete. I've honestly never given the Mark-1 a good look and it seems to be a better knife than I realized.
gerber strongarm is ment for field troops, they need a knife to beat the shit out and not care if the tool broke
kabar mark 1 was built for the navy guys, they just add it to the belt and forget about it, cause its corrosion resistant and not need to be sharppened every day, and when they need it its razor sharp BOTH ARE THE BEST KNIFE FOR THE JOB
1095 high carbon is anything but corrosion resistant.
you have the best knife channel hands down
OK, sold ! I'm ordering the KA-BAR next week !👍
How’s the knife??
@@EddieLove Best piece of kit I own, I ordered 2 in the end ! Love it !!👍
Haha I see Kabar and I immediately think of a specific knife that people mention but have a habit of not reviewing.
Gerber Strongarm is a military-survival knife, great for Urban missions. Ka-Bar Navy Mark1 was the US war navy knife and it's more a Combat utility knife, rather than survival do it all knife. Mark 1 is a much better quality knife, with more suitable steel for a fixed blade, that it's edge can take a bit more before it ever slightly chips or rolls. They both sharpen easy, the Ka-Bar a bit faster. Gerber doesn't cut or carve as good as the Ka-Bar, not even close. Mark1 can work as a hunting or bushcraft knife, while Strongmarm has a much thicker blade stock and tip that can pry a bit more. I would choose Ka-Bar Mark I with Kraton handle, 9 times out of 10. Strongarm is decent but not even close to Mark I. That's why it used to cost so much less, when it first came out. Thanks to RUclips backyard warriors,that sell knives and people consider them more knowledgable than they are in reallity, the Strongarm now, costs almost as much as the Mark I....RUclips has become a marketing platform.
Good to find someone who knows what they are talking about✊🏻❤️🙏🏻
For cutting the kabar wins but not durability
@@DONK0 Edge Stability, geometry and retention, are all way better on the Ka-Bar and that's what matters. Also, it's robust enough, to do any kind of task. Gerber is way worse on everything, even compared to the Mark1. That's not my opinion, these area facts.
@Greek Veteran you don't watch Joe x do you, the strongarm is proven nigh unbreakable.
@@DONK0 I wrote in English. I said it's edge. The steel is too soft, that's why it with stands abuse, that if you where a realist, you would admit that no knife will ever see. Either you didn't read what I wrote, or your understanding of that tool, limits to a crazy guys limited knowledge. The reason he likes cheap knives, is because cheap knives are very soft, do you understand at least that?
Did you get the cat litter, dish washer and milk Pete?
Your right, there is room for both in my life. Thanks
Thx for your honest review, you made me save quite a bit of money. 😊👍
I own and have used both, the Strong Arm is the hardest knife I’ve had to sharpen. After about 45 minutes On the work sharp I had a very capable 21 degree edge, it splits wood easily due to its blade geometry as it’s a few mm thicker than the mark 1.
I used the factory edge on the Mark 1 to split some 1 ft long 2X4’s and did just fine. Despite the 21 degree edge on the Gerber vs the factory 20 degree on the Kabar, the Gerber also produced shavings just as good but maybe not as fine.
Both are great knives but out in the field I’d go with the Mark 1 as it’s 1095 CroVan Steel is way easier to sharpen.
Actually you can do whatever you want with that kabar as they have a no questions asked lifetime replacement if you break it lol I was born and raised here in Olean NY where they are made....
I’m from Oregon (used to be proud of it), and Gerber is on the list of anti-hunting businesses. They try to keep that quiet because they make lots of money from the hunting community.
Kabar has the history, better steel (I personally love 1095 CV), and are either pro-sportsman or at least politically neutral. I own a LOT of Kabars, and only a couple Gerbers from before the internet and sharing of knowledge.
That's cool and all, but you cant sent it back when your our in the woods lol
@@ORflycaster I wasn't too interested in a Gerber anyway. But now they're definitely off my list.
The Mark 1 is a fighting/ light utility knife where batoning will void the warranty unlike the Strongarm which is a heavy duty bushcraft knife made for it. They're 2 different styles made for different jobs
Also I got the mk1 when it came out and think it is a great knife. Abused it and it took it like a champ. I liked it so much that I bought the stacked leather Handel version.
Indeed. It seems more fragile than it is. It's a great all around camping and woodcraft knife. I like it's stablemate the BK-62 also. Both are great companion knives.
Hmmmm... hard choise. Better get both :-D Nah, I would go for the Mark1 LEATHER handle. And strip the blade.
I did just that, lol. That 1095 CV sharpens up beautifully.
Top notch quality review and comparison of these two knives. Ka Bar appears much more useful, thanks to the good cutting grind and comfortable handle. Gerber almost screams "mall ninja"
You sound like a girlie man you better get the ka bar better for cutting your fruits
I feel like you're confused on which one is which lol
Strongarm is a tough knife, see the Joe X video on it.
The Ka-bar tang will bend and/ord break . It's weak compared to the Strongarm.
Maybe the Strongarm really is a Ninja. And not a mall ninja.
The glass filled navy sheath dulls the edge. I removed the face and added a plastic face and spacer for blade room. Nice farm knife! Navy slices very well!
Great comparison and contrast review. I have the Mark I, and it is a very capable knife. I prefer the 1095 CV, but 420 HC is a good steel for a low cost workhorse. Buck uses it extensively, and really knows how to get the most out of it.
That Gerber sheath straight onto the belt option might work pretty well upside down on the shoulder strap area of a vest or bag, if your speed is high enough and your drag is low enough to warrant it.
That's how I carried my bayonet on my plate carrier in country. 🤙🏼
I have the mark 1. It's a pretty good knife, although a little light. The back of the blade by the tip is pretty thin. 90° edge on back is not sharp or hard of an angle for fire starters. The grip is great! The sheath is amazing! Absolutely perfect. I have since bought a marakniv black. Great blade but not a great sheath.
Good tip for the mora sheath (yes their sheaths suck which is a shame) feed a piece of bike innertube through the belt clip and then use that as a "retainer" for the blade its a bit of a jerry rigged approach but good for a quick easy fix.
I’d say that although the strongarm isn’t a bushcraft knife, it probably deals better with batonning than most bushcraft knives due to the shape of the blade and the sturdiness of it.
Jumped from 2016 to 2018 in my #KnifeNerd binge-watch.
Nice review! I subscribed. Your reviews are professionally done and objective. Dr Dave
I have had a lot of knives with thermoplastic sheathes especially Cold Steel, where the sheath really dulls the knife as you take it in and out. I would be really interested to know of your experiences with this problem.
these two arent as fitted, and the blades dont really touch the inside - i think its cos they can go in with the edge facing either way. But yeah, I’ve noticed that in the SRK, but only after looking for it
When CS switched to that securex crap, that has more glass fibers in the matrix, they screwed up. I love CS, but there is just no defending that outcome. VirtueorVice did a video talking about a CS and said..."This knife is good...sheath is crap". He is a very understated Japanese gentlemen, master hand sharpener, BARK RIVER collector to the extreme...I laughed for an hour😂. I use my securex for storage whenever possible...but not carry. I don't want the knife dulling with every entry and exit of the item designed to protect it. Having a good kydex made or making them yourself can be an expensive and slow as a koala bear process though.
Old post but here's my experience.... The Strongarm sheath has a different plastic and like Pete said they don't touch the edge so its safe. As for the LMF2 AND PRODIGY sheaths THEY SUCK!! Yes the LMF2 sheath is cool and has lots of options but it dulls your knife instantly. The Prodigy sheath does the same thing BUT from my experience it doesn't touch the edge as bad but yes it still will dull your blade. Personally I think the Strongarm sheath is pretty cool but does have some issues. I've never had the Kbar so I have no idea how their sheaths are but that Mark1 is an awesome stock sheath.
Ive EDC a Mk1 for over a year now. No the sheath does not dull the blade that I have noticed.
I like both actually but if I could have only one I'd go with the Gerber strongarm.
Glad to see a mark 1 review
much rather my all black gerber strongarm fine edge blade. Tough. a knife you can bet your life on.
well the strongarm is meant to be a survival knife so of course its gonna have a stronger construction the mark 1 is a sailors knife its just ment to cut soft things like string or food not split wood
There is no comparison between these two knives. The Gerber is made for aircraft crew to puncture aircraft aluminum and to escape and be able to cut through wire without getting electrocuted and the end is made to break the glass. The k-bar is made for Navy crew where we normally have a lot of rope to cut that is why it's better to have a thin blade for rope work.
So to compare 2 knives made for two different Armed Forces makes no sense. I was in the Canadian Navy probably before your parents were born.
You talking bout the LMF II
The MK1 is the cheapest real knife you can get has a fully tapered blade, easily serviced, full flat grind, handle that works all day no hot spots, great jump capable sheath, and a hammer poll.
Works hunting, works bush crafting, and was in high demand more than any MK2 in the Pacific theatre as actually worked as a combat blade to slide between ribs and vertebrae things most modern "combat knives" dismally fail at being such thick stock and untapered .. hell in the history of warfare even swords were tapered if they were meant for actual combat like every other bigger blade than handle tool but in an age of guns where blades are for show and prying some forget.
420hc is about 4 times as tough as 1095 (Larrins tests) and it should be due to its composition. Gerber run it softer, Ka bar run their 1095 cro van harder so probably nearer 5 times as tough. Strongarm is actually a great knife and a truly well balanced "defense" knife also.
Gerber has nice weight and balance. Easy to sharpen. I was a diehard kabar guy but the gerber was suprisingly nice in hand.
I have both knives, but the ka-bar is partly serrated. I prefer the ka-bar out in the woods
I bought a strong arm and it had a nice feel. Feels durable but my problem comes from the sheath locking system. The gerber is loose. Wabbles, and just is not secure. Strong arm came in a box. I was also told it could be bootlegged even tho I bought it from the gerber store on Amazon. The ka bar is everything the strong arm is not. Sheath is very secure and does not have any give at all. I have the both. I use the strong arm in my truck for a lot of things sometimes as a pry bar. The ka bar is a knife and only gets used as a knife.
I don't have either one, but would think that the Ka-Bar is a tougher knife and ready for camping situations even though both could do. I have a new Ka-Bar knife and it seems to be great compared to other knives I own.
Is it the Turok?
@@christophersmith588 Yes it is and it is a nice knife.
Yes it is the Turok, and I love that knife more than I do the BK2 which is nice.
So yeah. The Ka-Bar is an AR while the Gerber is an AK.
Utter Blasphemy. 🇺🇸
ARs are more reliable than AKs.
D L I like ARs a lot more, but you are incorrect about that.
@@bcjdwbiernfjherwfbowfib No I'm not
@@DL-ij7tf ok then...
Excellent comparison video, you did a good job mate!
I own both and I love both . The Strong Arm is a great hard use knife and probably one of the toughest knife out under $100.00 .. But the Kabar is no slouch, its pretty tough knife , remember its was issued to the US Navy during a War , its 1095 Cro Van, its a great bushcraft knife, it's really thin behind the edge , its definitely a better companion knife to pair with a Big Choppa . The only knock on it for me is the small handle , I have XL hands and the butt sits on my pinky, besides that the rubber handle is really comfortable for my other fingers ,ha ha , if it was a 1/2 inch bigger , it would be 1 of my favorites. The Sog NW Ranger in AUS-8 is very similar to it , but I like the 1095CV
I have the same problem and I find that I can use tennis racket handle grip to get it just right and it adds to the comfort and stability since its great with sweaty/wet hands.
Great idea to compare these 2. Thanks!
Mark 1 works good for skinning game , need to get me another one.
Blair Patkotak interesting
Yeah, after age steam of the Navy has had that much use for wood. And out on the ocean the only survival issue we had was trying to digest the ship’s cook daily serving of slops and extremely well done mutton. Only use of knife on a ship is cutting rope and canvas.
Very useful information in this video.
Much better then the knife test video I saw of two clowns hitting rocks with different blades.
I chose the MK1, and so does Uncle Randy⚔️🇺🇲
We get better deals on US made knives here in the US because they are made here, meaning no international shipping charges or duties/taxes. I am not sure what import taxes you have in Aussie land, but I'm sure there are at least some tariff on them. I am sure something made in Australia, would be cheaper in Australia as well.
I appreciate your videos very much. I have used your testing as the basis for a few different purchase choices..for instance, the Strongarm, I got the BDZ1 steel model. Thanks for what you do!
I have the strongarm and when you tried it on behind your back a fell out started rolling 😂😂
Now that a few years have passed, what is you impression of these items and how would you use them? Do you believe they’re worth owning or are there other items you would recommend instead of? How the knives serving you these days?
He has so many, everyday's a new day.
😁😉
i love how you played the game over from mgs 1 while im playing mgs 5... in face mgs 5 made me want a knife i can carry horizontal on my back. it seems like the strong arm is the best option for such use
These are two overall good knives. I think they look nice as well. Thanks Pete. Man Big Brown must be strong, lol I’ve never seen a srk break.
The Ka Bar is for killling stricktly, will do more but was designed as a fighting knife
Excellent review thank you
Kevin 🇨🇦
Nice review, Thanks. Because I don't beat on my knife I find no need for "extreme" strength. I edc an older mk1. Its a one knife does all solution without weighing you down. Don't like the painted blade though.
Strongarm: great sheath system. Not good at anything, but can do almost anything. Actually pretty bad at carving, whittling, cutting and stabbing due to it's geometry. Will cause tissue damage if need to do so arises. I am definitely replacing it after 6 months of use.
8:42 Flashbacks from 1998...
Haha so funny 😐
I use Mark 1 3 year. And its the best knife for my self
I completely respect your testing BUT, I’ve got a Leatherman Wave (420HC) and an Esee 3. I carry the Wave and USE it daily. I sharpen it once a month. The Esee is carried on the weekend and if I open a box and a bag of dog food: I have to resharpen it…
What am I missing?
Did you sort the cat litter, the dishwasher and the milk situation out? Just asking.
Thank you for a well thought out review
I choosed the «Strongarm», to be My very First Knife, of surviving. ‘Cause all the options. I’m a vet, from serving in Bosnia, and Lebanon. It costed Me, 150 dollars. Buying it in Sweden. That, saved Me, to burn even 50 dollars MOORE… -From buying it, in Norway…
Ka-Bar has a flat but cap so you can pound it in. A tree or a chest if needed.
I ordered a Strongarm over the weekend. I'll see if I can break it...or not.
The strong arm is such a sexy looking knife. I love mine, got off of Amazon for £89.
17 degrees is wrong for these knives. They're 25-22.5 generally, and 20 at the absolute thinnest.
He thinned out the edge so he could test edge holding ability of both steels at same thickness. Nothing wrong about it.
A closer comparison to the Ka Bar mark 1 would be provided by the Sog Northwest Ranger. Own both Gerber and the Ka Bar and enjoy using either one.
Use the right tool for the job and almost every point is irrelevant and makes the kabar far superior at doing the job a knife is meant to do. Carry a hatchet
slightly off topic.. i just got Marbles Plainsman safe grip from mr. Postman and i am amazedhow great this knife is.. perfectly functional with briliant inconspicouos sheath that begs for open carry EDC cuz it really looks harmless.. like you just have some cordura pouch hanging on your side.. knife is FFG perfect size... there is only 1 review of these on whole of YT...
if you could get your hands on one.. i´d love to see your opinions Cedric.. and i also think you could love this knife.. it is really cheap in coated 1095 so far perfect perfect budget fixed blade...
the only problem with this review is....
I own a Geber and now I'm gonna have to get a Ka bar as well lol..
cheers mate..
Do you still have your police 4? Do you have any rust issues in the liners?
I might get a gerber knife at walmart, but the box has no indications of it being strong arm.
How do I know?
I just, this week bought the Tan handled GERBER PRODIGY at my local wal mart, I been researching and reading up on these knives, the prodigy, according to U tube research is only sold at and was manufactured for sale at wal mart's? They are available in non serrated and half serrated from what I found out, the one I bought is the non serrated which is the one I wanted.
What did you sharpen with? And was it a 35 degree angle
How do you move so fast when you are making a feather stick/cutting? Your forearms must be very strong. I guess its muscle memory from doing it so often. I could never move that fast.
when your life may depend on your knife you cant take chances with a blade failing, the strong arm is the only way to go.
What website would you suggest for a strongarm? I have been looking around a bit and can't find an Australian website for a reasonable price.
ajn.mychannel perhaps Ebay, thats where I got mine, $80 free shipping.
gerber strongarm kinda difficult to attach as molle in warbelt set up.
What would you say would be a similar knife that would be great for all of these tasks?
1. Sweet Costa Rica says it best.
2. I want you to create a mental scenario that you are an enlisted man in the Navy. You cutting rope/packages/apples/sandwiches. Then create a scenario where you fending in the woods. Two different knife scenarios.
3. Someone, as usual, pipes in about using an inexpensive Mora. Gosh, when you are in the wild surviving, the skill is in YOU and not the tool. You aren't going to be chopping down trees or using green wood in making a fire. You will be collecting fallen branches, twigs or making a primitive lean to.
I have multiples of the Mark 1 with the modern sheath which is used for behind the back carry. My time in the US Army was almost 50 years ago. I am not be hanging out in the woods.
The reason the Gerber’s handle is thinner is because it was designed to be used while wearing gloves
Slim handles also give a tight grip when stabbing...
Hi there
Is your ka bar sheath kydex or GRP the original ones were GRP and I think the ones with extra lashing points are kydex. Great vid.
IS the sheath still made of Dull-a-edge Turbo© like all kabars?
Neither my leather sheath for my USMC Kabar, nor my Cordura w/ polymer insert for my Becker BK15 dull the knives at all.
When you wear the Gerber vertically, it's called scout carry and it's supposed to go in the center of your back so it doesn't stick out and easy to reach and re-sheath
I think you mean horizontal carry?
Do you guys need to have permits to purchase such lethal weapons?
no
No, the Aussies don't have it as bad as the Mother Country...Yet! Gun Control leads to Knife Control.
Michael Byrnes Oi mate,,,, you got a permit for that tool? Btw, here is your mandatory 8 person migrant family to put up in your flat. Hahaha
Any chance you'd get your hands on another ESEE to do an Unleashed test with? I'd be curious to see if that would improve the edge retention at all.
Yes, actually! Esee 6 HM is coming for that and other purposes
Cedric & Ada Gear and Outdoors Awesome! I’ll be looking forward to it! 👍
The main reason why I like Cold Steel's version is because the tang is better. I don't know why Kabar made the tang like that.
Also, Did you remember to buy some cat litter??? Lol
It seems that your personal choice is Ka Bar. So in this video you are supporting this Ka Bar.
Great head to head. Can't wait to see the out come.
C'mon Ka-Bar!!!!
Commenting for channel activity.
1095 steel is as strong as 420 with less metal needed. Pound the Ka-Bar into a tree and you can stand on it.
Strongarm for the win.
Do the Gerber Silver Trident. There's only one decent video of it on RUclips and it doesn't even have testing in it.
Bro, you actually made me nervous seeing you trying to sheath your knife, BEHIND YOUR BACK!!! Besides that, great video too...
if youre going to cut tiber use an axe, Kabar seems to do what its purposed to well. its a no brainer