Love the videos Rob, keep them coming! You can verify the cowl length question by measuring the prop location. The plans call for 58.5 inches from the datum to the prop flange on the crank. The datum is the wing LE, drop a plumb bob while in a level pitch attitude. If yours is more, then that explains why the aluminum was too short.
Thanks, Jared! The videos were never something I intended and evolved throughout my build as I documented certain aspects. Then, like everything else, it just started snowballing. I will measure this distance from the prop flange to the datum this weekend. Should be interesting.
It's coming along great. Some thoughts... 1) Get a shrinker and shrink the puckers out of that boot cowl. 2) The "nipper" is called a hand nibbler. They are awesome. 3) Good for you for using AC 43.13. I wish more people would. 4) Great list of references there at the end. I'm definitely going to add some of those, as I don't have them. I love your channel!
Yes I Thank you for all your contribution to us all watching and learning about Aviation you have a most incredible build. You along with others make it possible for me as well as others that any of us can do this and you inspire me to do so. Thank you for that.
ACCESS ACCESS ACCESS! Good thinking on the boot cowl, my Super Rebel wasn’t as generous, a contortionists nightmare to get up under the instrument panel.
Just be aware that E-Mag/P-Mag (and SureFly) have limited experience with 6 cylinder ignition systems. On the other hand, they've been using them on 4 cylinder engines for years and have worked most of the bugs out. I've decided to wait until a few 6 cylinder versions have been market tested before I make the switch.
@@TheBaldPilot Completely agree with this also. I'm going the 4-cyl route. But they are not certified so that means rigorous testing and life testing is not required. To get PMA and STC approval for a mag replacement is very expensive $$$$. One question I have are they electrically noisy? Do they interfere with comm and nav radios? Even if they are dependable there could be lots of other irritating issues because cert testing was not done. But these issues should have been discovered by now like you say.
I'm sure you know of this NZ guy ('Bearhawk Blog') but he's installing the 200 Series 6-cyl P-MAGS. I'm following along. ruclips.net/video/V2HfRZ22uaM/видео.html
You are definitely right about those screwdrivers! HF screwdrivers are junk. The wife bought me a full set of Craftsman screwdrivers a few years ago. They're great. The HF were a nightmare. Good work!
Cheap Screwdrivers Destroy Screws. Years ago I learned that lesson while working as an apprentice, and noticing that journeymen electricians were not dealing with rounded fasteners as I was. I also noticed that they all had in their tool belt some very expensive tools. At first I thought it was merely a status symbol, but i quickly found out by asking, that it was nothing of the sort. I have never used a cheap tool since then. Screwdrivers, pliers, diagonal cutters, needle nose, what ever I had I upgraded. All those cheap screwdrivers, well, I ground them into nice pointy awls, that make nice holes or makings on metal, wood, plastic. The better tools work better, last longer, and are far less likely to damage fasteners.
So the carbon fiber plenum will be ok with the heat? I guess there's a fairly large gap between the engine and the carbon fiber but will it be ok when running hot on the ground?
Most newer plenums are from carbon fiber. I also used a high heat epoxy resin. theepoxyexperts.com/shop/adhesives/high-temperature-adhesives/max-hte-ab/max-hte-40-oz-epoxy-resin-high-heat-resistant-fiberglass-carbon-fiber-lay-glue-casting/
The specific "lead acid" battery I am using is the Odyssey PC680. This is actually a Recombinant Gas (RG) battery. I am following Bob Knuckles book, AeroElectric Connection where he recommends the RG battery. Here is a article he wrote on the subject: www.aeroelectric.com/articles/battery.pdf
Your videos are amazing and super insightful! Let's agree that we both, all love the BearHawk aircraft. But from a builder's experience it seems that the BearHawk kit is seriously lacking in so many ways? Knowing what you know now, what would you build, recommenced to build? Have you or has the BearHawk company been paying attention and are they aware of the huge improvements needed in their kits? Are they taking steps to correct, improve this? Can they or will they improve their kits? Do they care?
I've been selected to participate in a group of Bearhawk builders that collaborate in ideas and suggestions to improve the kit and the building experience. The designer, the factory, the distributors and builders as whole are receptive to improvement. But I don't want to suggest that the Bearhawk kit is a debilitating endeavor. Not at all. I'm a first time builder and have experienced nothing that would have me consider throwing in the towel. In fact, when I am finished building this Bearhawk 4 Place, I intend to build a Bearhawk Patrol.
I'm not keeping a detailed log on my hours, but I typically work 3 to 4 hours a day. Started June 1, 2018. So as of September 8, 2019 that's 466 days. If we take out 20% for travel, vacation and other days off that leaves 372 days x 3.5 hrs/day = 1,304 hours so far. That feels about right.
It turns out that Aerotronics www.aerotronics.com/index.html has been the greatest resource for my aircraft wiring. They are the company that built my instrument panel and provided complete wiring diagrams along with as many phone consultations as I needed to understand and finish the job.
@@davidb2045 It's more than just an instruction manual. They went above and beyond anything I expected and fully prepared schematics for my entire electrical system firewall forward. I can't imagine doing that on my own.
like the boot cowl access panel.. such a sucky place to work on pedals and under panel etc. great idea.. cf looks good too
Thanks! Love your vids too! (Sorry for the late reply...)
Love the videos Rob, keep them coming! You can verify the cowl length question by measuring the prop location. The plans call for 58.5 inches from the datum to the prop flange on the crank. The datum is the wing LE, drop a plumb bob while in a level pitch attitude. If yours is more, then that explains why the aluminum was too short.
Thanks, Jared! The videos were never something I intended and evolved throughout my build as I documented certain aspects. Then, like everything else, it just started snowballing.
I will measure this distance from the prop flange to the datum this weekend. Should be interesting.
It's coming along great. Some thoughts...
1) Get a shrinker and shrink the puckers out of that boot cowl.
2) The "nipper" is called a hand nibbler. They are awesome.
3) Good for you for using AC 43.13. I wish more people would.
4) Great list of references there at the end. I'm definitely going to add some of those, as I don't have them.
I love your channel!
All good suggestions! Thanks, Tom! (Sorry for the late reply...)
Your work is really impressive! And, your videos are great! They really help someone who has build a plane understand what it takes. Great work!
Thanks, Eric! Glad to help! (Sorry for the late reply...)
Yes I Thank you for all your contribution to us all watching and learning about Aviation you have a most incredible build.
You along with others make it possible for me as well as others that any of us can do this and you inspire me to do so.
Thank you for that.
Thank you, Shaun! (Sorry for the late reply...)
ACCESS ACCESS ACCESS! Good thinking on the boot cowl, my Super Rebel wasn’t as generous, a contortionists nightmare to get up under the instrument panel.
Thanks!
I agree on the complexity of the Light Speed ignition system. The E-Mag/P-Mag if dependable looks attractive for my 4-cyl installation.
Just be aware that E-Mag/P-Mag (and SureFly) have limited experience with 6 cylinder ignition systems. On the other hand, they've been using them on 4 cylinder engines for years and have worked most of the bugs out. I've decided to wait until a few 6 cylinder versions have been market tested before I make the switch.
@@TheBaldPilot Completely agree with this also. I'm going the 4-cyl route. But they are not certified so that means rigorous testing and life testing is not required. To get PMA and STC approval for a mag replacement is very expensive $$$$. One question I have are they electrically noisy? Do they interfere with comm and nav radios? Even if they are dependable there could be lots of other irritating issues because cert testing was not done. But these issues should have been discovered by now like you say.
I'm sure you know of this NZ guy ('Bearhawk Blog') but he's installing the 200 Series 6-cyl P-MAGS. I'm following along. ruclips.net/video/V2HfRZ22uaM/видео.html
Good job sir I look forward to updates, including destinations when you start flying your "Bearhawk". Very inspirational thank you for sharing.
We look forward to including many flying videos when that time comes! Thanks so much! (Sorry for the late reply...)
@@TheBaldPilot No problem thanks, keep at it.
Great job sir. Project is looking outstanding.
Thanks, Kelly! (Sorry for the late reply...)
You are definitely right about those screwdrivers! HF screwdrivers are junk. The wife bought me a full set of Craftsman screwdrivers a few years ago. They're great. The HF were a nightmare. Good work!
HA! Thank you very much! (Sorry for the late reply...)
Good stuff.
Thanks! 😀
Great videos. Keep them coming
Thanks, Daniel! (Sorry for the late reply...)
Cheap Screwdrivers Destroy Screws. Years ago I learned that lesson while working as an apprentice, and noticing that journeymen electricians were not dealing with rounded fasteners as I was. I also noticed that they all had in their tool belt some very expensive tools. At first I thought it was merely a status symbol, but i quickly found out by asking, that it was nothing of the sort. I have never used a cheap tool since then. Screwdrivers, pliers, diagonal cutters, needle nose, what ever I had I upgraded. All those cheap screwdrivers, well, I ground them into nice pointy awls, that make nice holes or makings on metal, wood, plastic. The better tools work better, last longer, and are far less likely to damage fasteners.
You speak the truth, Peter! (Sorry for the late reply...)
So the carbon fiber plenum will be ok with the heat? I guess there's a fairly large gap between the engine and the carbon fiber but will it be ok when running hot on the ground?
Most newer plenums are from carbon fiber. I also used a high heat epoxy resin. theepoxyexperts.com/shop/adhesives/high-temperature-adhesives/max-hte-ab/max-hte-40-oz-epoxy-resin-high-heat-resistant-fiberglass-carbon-fiber-lay-glue-casting/
Aloha just watched your video, have a question why would you use a lead acid battery over an ultima gel or a dry cell battery?
The specific "lead acid" battery I am using is the Odyssey PC680. This is actually a Recombinant Gas (RG) battery. I am following Bob Knuckles book, AeroElectric Connection where he recommends the RG battery. Here is a article he wrote on the subject: www.aeroelectric.com/articles/battery.pdf
Bearhawk Life
Thank you
Your videos are amazing and super insightful! Let's agree that we both, all love the BearHawk aircraft. But from a builder's experience it seems that the BearHawk kit is seriously lacking in so many ways? Knowing what you know now, what would you build, recommenced to build? Have you or has the BearHawk company been paying attention and are they aware of the huge improvements needed in their kits? Are they taking steps to correct, improve this? Can they or will they improve their kits? Do they care?
I've been selected to participate in a group of Bearhawk builders that collaborate in ideas and suggestions to improve the kit and the building experience. The designer, the factory, the distributors and builders as whole are receptive to improvement. But I don't want to suggest that the Bearhawk kit is a debilitating endeavor. Not at all. I'm a first time builder and have experienced nothing that would have me consider throwing in the towel. In fact, when I am finished building this Bearhawk 4 Place, I intend to build a Bearhawk Patrol.
what percentage did you allow for overrun cost?
I have certainly spent more than I anticipated, but I am not working from a budget.
@@TheBaldPilot I should of known when you bought that thunderbolt
How many hours do you have into the build?
I'm not keeping a detailed log on my hours, but I typically work 3 to 4 hours a day. Started June 1, 2018. So as of September 8, 2019 that's 466 days. If we take out 20% for travel, vacation and other days off that leaves 372 days x 3.5 hrs/day = 1,304 hours so far. That feels about right.
Aircraft wiring guide was a waste of money and just an advertisement for VPX, AEC is all you need.
It turns out that Aerotronics www.aerotronics.com/index.html has been the greatest resource for my aircraft wiring. They are the company that built my instrument panel and provided complete wiring diagrams along with as many phone consultations as I needed to understand and finish the job.
@@TheBaldPilot Obviously the instruction manual for your panel would be a good resource.
@@davidb2045 It's more than just an instruction manual. They went above and beyond anything I expected and fully prepared schematics for my entire electrical system firewall forward. I can't imagine doing that on my own.
@@TheBaldPilot A wiring schematic would be expected for a shop built panel, I'd ask for my money back if it wasn't.