OK, so I have brand new copies of the 50th anniversary release of Band on the Run. Cleaned both with my Kirmuss machine, following the same steps as you (except I use the Furtech Destat II instead of the brush at the end). Applied Last to one, and then did an A/B test the next day after warming up my system. Clearly, without a doubt the Last preserved record won hands down. With all respect to Charles, I'm going to go by my ears. So yes, I will be applying it to all my albums going forward. Thank you again for your excellent presentation.
You need to follow our instructions as to finishing the record.Caution using the Destat Ii as it has nothing to do with our process and restoration efforts.
@@kirmussaudio7578 I thought the last step was just anti-static, will incorporate the brush at the end into the process to get the most benefits. I get static from removing from the sleeves and from the record platter when I flip an album. The Destat does a great job removing that static charge. Thanks!
My negative experience: About 40 years ago I bought the same kit that you used. I religiously followed the power clean instructions prior to applying the sealant on several NEW records. Result: These records still sound great, EXCEPT they seemed to have sealed in all the imperfections from that time. No cleaning attempts have cleared those clicks and pops. Back then, I had no Ultrasonic cleaning options nor the student budget for it. Anyway, since then all liquids have evaporated from the tightly sealed bottles; but the applicators are still there ;) Considering buying an new set, just can't make up my mind... But your review helped; thanks!
Yea, you definitely want a super-clean record before applying the treatment. It can be removed, the record cleaned, and the treatment reapplied, but that's a lengthy process.
Bring that record to a Kirmuss Audio dealer or if in Los Angeles or in the UK, we are at two shows and would gladly restore your record with A and B, before and after auditioning and testing.
I’ve been using Last for decades. I reduces friction between the stylus and vinyl interface and therefore mitigates spurious micro-resonances which in turn lowers the noise floor. Lower coefficient of friction also reduces heat generation and avoids an effect that may distort the vinyl and cause interface alteration inaccuracies where the stylus contacts the vinyl.
It actually increases friction as it is a coating. It wears off as you play the record. I do not know how to post pictures of before and after application taken by a Keyence VHX-7000 2D 3D $178,000 digital microscope.
GREAT VIDEO! I have recently acquired a Kirmuss machine, in part to your demonstration and comments on it. Before that was using just a vacuum machine and Greg Weavers video on Last prompted me to use Last after finishing up with the vacuum cleaning. I noticed what I perceived as more tonality and definition. After attending Charles Kirmuss' seminar recently, and acquiring his fine machine, he thinks its detrimental and I stopped using it on records I cleaned with the Kirmuss ultrasound. Now you have me rethinking this (sorry Charles) and I have two new copies of the same record (One cover cane with a bent corner) and they sent me a replacement and didn't with the other back. I'm going to do what you just did with the Mingus on both, then treat one with and one without Last and see what if any difference I hear. Also think I'll have a friend that into collecting records come over and not let him know anything about this, and give me his impressions on both. I may start applying it again if I hear a positive result.
Applying a sealant will see the needle not make contact with all the details as pressed in the groove. It gives a false impression where at tines clicks and pops are hidden. Note where the precleaner and protectant do not remove the pressing oil. Only if you have previously removed the release agent and applied the protectant will you truly hear and measure the loss of what I am referring to.
@@kirmussaudio7578 Thanks for the information Charles. I have gone back and forth on the preservative, and currently are not using it any longer. I found crud was building up on my stylus (especially on new records) on the albums I treated. This confirmed your findings in my mind, and I have re-cleaned with my Kirmuss machine the albums I experienced this on. This isn't as true on used records I have cleaned and treated, but are re-cleaning any of these I notice a dirty stylus on. I didn't get this at first when using Last, but I upgraded to a more expensive cartridge and think the micro line nude diamond is getting deeper in the grooves and exposing this! I actually did think it improved the sound, especially on older LPs, but with this new cartridge it's not as noticeable, that and the build-up has me back in your camp.
@pnichols6500 Thanks for illustrating and sharing your experiences. Like products including the renew of GrooveGlide have surfaced. Discounted decades ago by us 'old farts'. A new generation relies on RUclips and there are millions of trolls out there. I rarely comment unless I see a serious situation. Records while they are the most robust of medias are in the same breath, fragile. I doubt where wannabe so called analog experts making cleaning concoctions or processes or systems or offer homemade elixirs or vary processes have a $178,000 2D 3D measuring device or an environmental chamber to accelerate aging of records. Needless to say one does not need this equipment to validate and discover issues as you have. Simple premise, a coating is a coating. What does the needle do? Gouge out the coating over time. Last weekend at a record fair caught a record reseller polish records with lighter fluid. Dressing the record up for sale. Their opinion, shiny records fetch more money. At some of these record fairs, unlike audio shows, we see a younger crowd, baby strollers abound, and notably many are buying vintage records to collect, as an investment, NOT TO PLAY'! Learn something every day...
After watching your podcast I bought a Last preservative and it works. I have three copies of Karajan conducting Béla Bartok’s Concerto for Orchestra. One is an original “Tulip” edition and the other two are reissues from the seventies or early eighties. Both copies of the reissues are a bit noisy, probably due to low quality polyvinyl chloride which was being used due to the ultra high petroleum and derivatives prices. I cleaned both copies with the AI system and KLAUDIO, but the surface noise remained. After the Last treatment the noise was reduced. It is still there but at much lower volume and now the reissues are listenable at a normal volume.
I'm guessing you're not a fan? Have you tried listening with and without LAST, after a thorough cleaning with the Kirmuss process of course! Would love to hear your thoughts. As I stated in the video, I was not expecting an improvement, but that is what I heard.
@LetsCleanaRecord From the instructions, it says to reapply every 100 plays. If so, why? If you pour water on the record, it shows thousands of water droplets.. Sent Fremer many years ago before and after stripping of the protectant. Spectrum analyzer show the result after removing the coating. Lots of comments out there. Folks ask if we can remove the film..
@@kirmussaudio7578 Hello Charles, I anticipate you would respond to this video. My take on Last is that it's probably not necessary or beneficial after using your cleaning machine and method. That said I can take a record treated with Last, and one without and clean at the same time and they both come out of the water the same. Was expecting to see sheeting or extra water left on the record, but could not tell one from the other. And I'm not good enough to tell the difference in listening between the two, but have not experienced any drawbacks to using last. That said, I've quit using it after attending your seminar and buying one of your fantastic machines.
@pnichols6500 Thanks for your contribution. Early on we encountered records at many of the audio shows and record fairs both here and in Europe where we noted hundreds if not thousands of beads of water on some records. These records coincidently had a sticker applied, denoting Last. , I forgot to .mention where these water droplets appeared after the first five minute cycle with our ionizing applied. Following our instructions, and using subsequent four two minute and one five minute cycle as prescribed, we no longer saw this beading with records. Records processed, now repelling water and coming out virtually dry. As they should, based on the Tribelectric table of charges. Record enthusiasts specifically ask at shows or in phone calls or in emails without any presentation or knowledge of our system if we remove this coating. So it would seem where folks do want to locate a process for their personal reasons. Lots of other discussions on what audio enthusiasts have noted. Fremer has stated after study several years ago where records do not need any coatings. One would assume that record manufacturers would endorse protective coatings or apply them as a premium.... One needs to also think about the stylus. In the UK many record resellers use T-Cut, an automotive wax to polish up a record for sale. As do folks applying WD40. Many resellers look for getting more $ if a record looks shiny, not realizing what the needle will be making contact with. ..another reason to maintain your needle.
Lots of folks have used silicone spray and WD 40 in the false sense of reducing friction. Records, even Edison cylinders, are marvels. Do look at their history, patents etc., and where it would behoove one not to coat a record. Not to coat a record especially when the pressing oil described by the Shure Brothers in circa 1977 has not been removed. Just common sense.
@@kirmussaudio7578 My reply was sarcastic (for anyone that knows about slick50 back in the 90's.) --- I owned auto repair shops and had to deal with all the damage caused by the crap.
@Audiojunkabus we in Denver see folks using lighter fluid and Bata shoe polish on records in a large record store. Thinking shiny Records fetch more bucks. In UK folks use T-cut car wax!!! Incredible what we encounter!!! Your joke appreciated!!!! Have a safe Memorial Day!
Wouldn't it be cheaper and less time consuming to just buy 5 or 6 copies of a disc if you are so concerned about these issues. I have been listening to vinyl since the sixties and I can't think of a single record that I have played a hundred times.
Fremer has proven where playing a record a 100 times does not see the record being eaten up. Of course we are not using a plastic 1.00 $ ruby stylus running 30 grams! To the statement where one needs to reapply a protectant, logic would dictate it is a coating that wears off after time.
As an "volunteer" custodian of vinyl records with lots of study and experience, I see no benefit and a few future problems using LAST or anything that leaves a coating on a record. My problems with LAST and similar: 1) Leaves a coating on the record, that lowers dB gain and just masks background noise. You want the stylus to ride in the groove, not hover above it. 2) Even when "dry" it will get on your stylus and could wick up the cantilever. Friction heat is generated when playing a record, so LAST and the like becomes soft again. Any contaminates that happen to be on the record or under the layer of LAST in this case can get stuck onto the stylus and no, one can not get it off! 3) Should you decide that LAST is not good or what you expected, getting it off the record is a herculean task at least. It would take days of constant ultrasonic cleaning and even then it likely will not all come off. For me records are what they are an imperfect medium. I want to hear the original music in all it's glory, flaws and all. I have records that are quiet as CDs and some that have a very little noise, but not bothersome and I'm talking about records that are 50 years old and older! Records can be made near noiseless or better, but it is a commitment. Well worth it in my opinion. The only thing that can't be fixed is damage. I can't get a very worn record played on all manner of gear and scuffed to hell and back or a bad pressing to a VG++ or better sonic grade, but anything else is certainly possible, I've done it many times. If one can't accept records for what they are, then I suggest sticking with streaming or CD or some digital medium.
I bought one of those machines. Returned the first one because the water would prematurely heat up. The 2nd machine is a little better. I am aware of the little temp gauge that’s on the machine. The roller mechanism doesn’t hold thinner records very firmly. I would keep an eye on them, I can only get 2 cycles before the water gets to warm. Fremer puts a blue ice pack to cool it down. Kinda a hassle.
@brianmoss5483 There has been no change in the way our system works. Or the design in 11 years. Water is preheated to 68 deg. Then as the machine is used, cavitation generates heat. One needs to degas the water every 5 records or so with the cover disconnected. This as air that is introduced into the water accelerates heating and reduces the effects of cavitation. Removing air reduces the heating of water. Your adding ice etc REDUCES THE EFFECTS OF CAVITATION, as well as where overly hot water at the other extreme does the same. Cold water will see you take a longer time to restore records. Also if ice is added it affects the distribution of the effects of cavitation and actually seeing the water heat up faster. Wastes time an erergy. As instructed, one can change out the hot water when indicated to do so by consulting the colored temperature bar with fresh new water as to when. . Pouring the hot water back into its original container, allowing it to cool with the cap not replaced. Then reusing it later. Indeed placing a record, especially a polystyrene and not a PVC record will see it twist temporarily if the temperature Guage is not consulted. As with any plastic, pressed pvc has a memory rest position where the record returns to the memory (pressed) position. So there is no permanent affectation. We signal a stop alarm at 103 deg f. Peers use heaters where records are subject in some stems to 110 Deg. F. The Temperature indicator bar shows when one should finish their last cycle. Yes, if the flashing red light appears, one needs to stop. Unlike other like machines, we alert one to stop the process. Any twist recovers when it is in the machine after several cycles when reaching the high temp zone as the part of the record exposed to air and then then subjected to the warm water evens out after a few cycles.
@brianmoss5483 Fremer does not put an ice pack in the machine. See my other note as how to maintain cavitation. Incredulous the statement where an ice pack helps. First it obstructs cavitation. Secondly, cavitation needs water that is between 68/72 degrees F and higher. For records we signal an alarm at 102/103 deg f as cavitation decreases at high temperatures as well as where we need to ensure we do not heat records.
Why do record pressers not recommend a coating? If a coating was imperative, why not see it part of a new record. Fremer and others have debunked the premise of the stylus eating a record. Supplied are pictures of what a coating looks like on a recird. Why hide the sub micron detail found in the record's groove?
OK, so I have brand new copies of the 50th anniversary release of Band on the Run.
Cleaned both with my Kirmuss machine, following the same steps as you (except I use the Furtech Destat II instead of the brush at the end).
Applied Last to one, and then did an A/B test the next day after warming up my system.
Clearly, without a doubt the Last preserved record won hands down. With all respect to Charles, I'm going to go by my ears.
So yes, I will be applying it to all my albums going forward.
Thank you again for your excellent presentation.
You need to follow our instructions as to finishing the record.Caution using the Destat Ii as it has nothing to do with our process and restoration efforts.
@@kirmussaudio7578 I thought the last step was just anti-static, will incorporate the brush at the end into the process to get the most benefits.
I get static from removing from the sleeves and from the record platter when I flip an album. The Destat does a great job removing that static charge.
Thanks!
@@pnichols6500 No worries! Thanks for the points you raised!
Thank you for taking on this comparison. Haven't seen anything on LAST on RUclips.
My negative experience: About 40 years ago I bought the same kit that you used. I religiously followed the power clean instructions prior to applying the sealant on several NEW records.
Result: These records still sound great, EXCEPT they seemed to have sealed in all the imperfections from that time. No cleaning attempts have cleared those clicks and pops. Back then, I had no Ultrasonic cleaning options nor the student budget for it.
Anyway, since then all liquids have evaporated from the tightly sealed bottles; but the applicators are still there ;)
Considering buying an new set, just can't make up my mind... But your review helped; thanks!
Yea, you definitely want a super-clean record before applying the treatment. It can be removed, the record cleaned, and the treatment reapplied, but that's a lengthy process.
Bring that record to a Kirmuss Audio dealer or if in Los Angeles or in the UK, we are at two shows and would gladly restore your record with A and B, before and after auditioning and testing.
I was WONDERING what Last was! My used copy of Glen Campbell’s “Hey Little One” has a Last Sticker on the label on both sides.
I’ve been using Last for decades. I reduces friction between the stylus and vinyl interface and therefore mitigates spurious micro-resonances which in turn lowers the noise floor. Lower coefficient of friction also reduces heat generation and avoids an effect that may distort the vinyl and cause interface alteration inaccuracies where the stylus contacts the vinyl.
It actually increases friction as it is a coating. It wears off as you play the record. I do not know how to post pictures of before and after application taken by a Keyence VHX-7000 2D 3D $178,000 digital microscope.
The coating actually increases temperature if one uses a thermal imager.
GREAT VIDEO!
I have recently acquired a Kirmuss machine, in part to your demonstration and comments on it. Before that was using just a vacuum machine and Greg Weavers video on Last prompted me to use Last after finishing up with the vacuum cleaning.
I noticed what I perceived as more tonality and definition.
After attending Charles Kirmuss' seminar recently, and acquiring his fine machine, he thinks its detrimental and I stopped using it on records I cleaned with the Kirmuss ultrasound.
Now you have me rethinking this (sorry Charles) and I have two new copies of the same record
(One cover cane with a bent corner) and they sent me a replacement and didn't with the other back.
I'm going to do what you just did with the Mingus on both, then treat one with and one without Last and see what if any difference I hear.
Also think I'll have a friend that into collecting records come over and not let him know anything about this, and give me his impressions on both.
I may start applying it again if I hear a positive result.
Applying a sealant will see the needle not make contact with all the details as pressed in the groove. It gives a false impression where at tines clicks and pops are hidden. Note where the precleaner and protectant do not remove the pressing oil. Only if you have previously removed the release agent and applied the protectant will you truly hear and measure the loss of what I am referring to.
Send us an email. We have pictures of what a coating does to a record.
@@kirmussaudio7578 Thanks for the information Charles. I have gone back and forth on the preservative, and currently are not using it any longer. I found crud was building up on my stylus (especially on new records) on the albums I treated.
This confirmed your findings in my mind, and I have re-cleaned with my Kirmuss machine the albums I experienced this on.
This isn't as true on used records I have cleaned and treated, but are re-cleaning any of these I notice a dirty stylus on.
I didn't get this at first when using Last, but I upgraded to a more expensive cartridge and think the micro line nude diamond is getting deeper in the grooves and exposing this!
I actually did think it improved the sound, especially on older LPs, but with this new cartridge it's not as noticeable, that and the build-up has me back in your camp.
@pnichols6500 Thanks for illustrating and sharing your experiences. Like products including the renew of GrooveGlide have surfaced. Discounted decades ago by us 'old farts'. A new generation relies on RUclips and there are millions of trolls out there. I rarely comment unless I see a serious situation. Records while they are the most robust of medias are in the same breath, fragile. I doubt where wannabe so called analog experts making cleaning concoctions or processes or systems or offer homemade elixirs or vary processes have a $178,000 2D 3D measuring device or an environmental chamber to accelerate aging of records. Needless to say one does not need this equipment to validate and discover issues as you have. Simple premise, a coating is a coating. What does the needle do? Gouge out the coating over time.
Last weekend at a record fair caught a record reseller polish records with lighter fluid. Dressing the record up for sale. Their opinion, shiny records fetch more money. At some of these record fairs, unlike audio shows, we see a younger crowd, baby strollers abound, and notably many are buying vintage records to collect, as an investment, NOT TO PLAY'! Learn something every day...
After watching your podcast I bought a Last preservative and it works. I have three copies of Karajan conducting Béla Bartok’s Concerto for Orchestra. One is an original “Tulip” edition and the other two are reissues from the seventies or early eighties. Both copies of the reissues are a bit noisy, probably due to low quality polyvinyl chloride which was being used due to the ultra high petroleum and derivatives prices. I cleaned both copies with the AI system and KLAUDIO, but the surface noise remained. After the Last treatment the noise was reduced. It is still there but at much lower volume and now the reissues are listenable at a normal volume.
Let's give LAST's RCF a try!
The application sees a film of aprox. .09 micons added on the surface. Under the Keyence VHX-7000 2D 3D imager, it can be seen.
I'm guessing you're not a fan? Have you tried listening with and without LAST, after a thorough cleaning with the Kirmuss process of course! Would love to hear your thoughts. As I stated in the video, I was not expecting an improvement, but that is what I heard.
@LetsCleanaRecord From the instructions, it says to reapply every 100 plays. If so, why?
If you pour water on the record, it shows thousands of water droplets..
Sent Fremer many years ago before and after stripping of the protectant.
Spectrum analyzer show the result after removing the coating.
Lots of comments out there.
Folks ask if we can remove the film..
@@kirmussaudio7578 Hello Charles, I anticipate you would respond to this video.
My take on Last is that it's probably not necessary or beneficial after using your cleaning machine and method.
That said I can take a record treated with Last, and one without and clean at the same time and they both come out of the water the same.
Was expecting to see sheeting or extra water left on the record, but could not tell one from the other.
And I'm not good enough to tell the difference in listening between the two, but have not experienced any drawbacks to using last.
That said, I've quit using it after attending your seminar and buying one of your fantastic machines.
@@kirmussaudio7578 Because it sounds better after the treatment.
@pnichols6500 Thanks for your contribution.
Early on we encountered records at many of the audio shows and record fairs both here and in Europe where we noted hundreds if not thousands of beads of water on some records. These records coincidently had a sticker applied, denoting Last. , I forgot to .mention where these water droplets appeared after the first five minute cycle with our ionizing applied. Following our instructions, and using subsequent four two minute and one five minute cycle as prescribed, we no longer saw this beading with records. Records processed, now repelling water and coming out virtually dry. As they should, based on the Tribelectric table of charges.
Record enthusiasts specifically ask at shows or in phone calls or in emails without any presentation or knowledge of our system if we remove this coating. So it would seem where folks do want to locate a process for their personal reasons.
Lots of other discussions on what audio enthusiasts have noted.
Fremer has stated after study several years ago where records do not need any coatings.
One would assume that record manufacturers would endorse protective coatings or apply them as a premium....
One needs to also think about the stylus.
In the UK many record resellers use T-Cut, an automotive wax to polish up a record for sale. As do folks applying WD40. Many resellers look for getting more $ if a record looks shiny, not realizing what the needle will be making contact with. ..another reason to maintain your needle.
slick50?
Lots of folks have used silicone spray and WD 40 in the false sense of reducing friction.
Records, even Edison cylinders, are marvels. Do look at their history, patents etc., and where it would behoove one not to coat a record.
Not to coat a record especially when the pressing oil described by the Shure Brothers in circa 1977 has not been removed. Just common sense.
@@kirmussaudio7578 My reply was sarcastic (for anyone that knows about slick50 back in the 90's.) --- I owned auto repair shops and had to deal with all the damage caused by the crap.
@Audiojunkabus we in Denver see folks using lighter fluid and Bata shoe polish on records in a large record store. Thinking shiny Records fetch more bucks. In UK folks use T-cut car wax!!! Incredible what we encounter!!! Your joke appreciated!!!! Have a safe Memorial Day!
Wouldn't it be cheaper and less time consuming to just buy 5 or 6 copies of a disc if you are so concerned about these issues. I have been listening to vinyl since the sixties and I can't think of a single record that I have played a hundred times.
I am not sure I understand your comment, spend hundreds of dollars replacing a record, over spending a buck to preserve it?
@@pnichols6500 some people are like that.
Fremer has proven where playing a record a 100 times does not see the record being eaten up. Of course we are not using a plastic 1.00 $ ruby stylus running 30 grams!
To the statement where one needs to reapply a protectant, logic would dictate it is a coating that wears off after time.
As an "volunteer" custodian of vinyl records with lots of study and experience, I see no benefit and a few future problems using LAST or anything that leaves a coating on a record.
My problems with LAST and similar:
1) Leaves a coating on the record, that lowers dB gain and just masks background noise. You want the stylus to ride in the groove, not hover above it.
2) Even when "dry" it will get on your stylus and could wick up the cantilever. Friction heat is generated when playing a record, so LAST and the like becomes soft again. Any contaminates that happen to be on the record or under the layer of LAST in this case can get stuck onto the stylus and no, one can not get it off!
3) Should you decide that LAST is not good or what you expected, getting it off the record is a herculean task at least. It would take days of constant ultrasonic cleaning and even then it likely will not all come off.
For me records are what they are an imperfect medium. I want to hear the original music in all it's glory, flaws and all. I have records that are quiet as CDs and some that have a very little noise, but not bothersome and I'm talking about records that are 50 years old and older! Records can be made near noiseless or better, but it is a commitment. Well worth it in my opinion. The only thing that can't be fixed is damage. I can't get a very worn record played on all manner of gear and scuffed to hell and back or a bad pressing to a VG++ or better sonic grade, but anything else is certainly possible, I've done it many times.
If one can't accept records for what they are, then I suggest sticking with streaming or CD or some digital medium.
Fair points and good information to consider. I am SURE this will come up again!
Make sure that machine doesn’t warp your record.
I certainly wouldn't want that, but may I ask why the concern? What is it about the Kirmuss turning mechanism that could warp a record?
I bought one of those machines. Returned the first one because the water would prematurely heat up. The 2nd machine is a little better. I am aware of the little temp gauge that’s on the machine. The roller mechanism doesn’t hold thinner records very firmly. I would keep an eye on them, I can only get 2 cycles before the water gets to warm. Fremer puts a blue ice pack to cool it down. Kinda a hassle.
@@brianmoss5483 Really good to know, thanks!
@brianmoss5483 There has been no change in the way our system works. Or the design in 11 years.
Water is preheated to 68 deg. Then as the machine is used, cavitation generates heat. One needs to degas the water every 5 records or so with the cover disconnected. This as air that is introduced into the water accelerates heating and reduces the effects of cavitation. Removing air reduces the heating of water.
Your adding ice etc REDUCES THE EFFECTS OF CAVITATION, as well as where overly hot water at the other extreme does the same.
Cold water will see you take a longer time to restore records. Also if ice is added it affects the distribution of the effects of cavitation and actually seeing the water heat up faster. Wastes time an erergy.
As instructed, one can change out the hot water when indicated to do so by consulting the colored temperature bar with fresh new water as to when. . Pouring the hot water back into its original container, allowing it to cool with the cap not replaced. Then reusing it later.
Indeed placing a record, especially a polystyrene and not a PVC record will see it twist temporarily if the temperature Guage is not consulted. As with any plastic, pressed pvc has a memory rest position where the record returns to the memory (pressed) position. So there is no permanent affectation. We signal a stop alarm at 103 deg f. Peers use heaters where records are subject in some stems to 110 Deg. F.
The Temperature indicator bar shows when one should finish their last cycle. Yes, if the flashing red light appears, one needs to stop. Unlike other like machines, we alert one to stop the process. Any twist recovers when it is in the machine after several cycles when reaching the high temp zone as the part of the record exposed to air and then then subjected to the warm water evens out after a few cycles.
@brianmoss5483 Fremer does not put an ice pack in the machine. See my other note as how to maintain cavitation. Incredulous the statement where an ice pack helps. First it obstructs cavitation. Secondly, cavitation needs water that is between 68/72 degrees F and higher. For records we signal an alarm at 102/103 deg f as cavitation decreases at high temperatures as well as where we need to ensure we do not heat records.
Why do record pressers not recommend a coating? If a coating was imperative, why not see it part of a new record. Fremer and others have debunked the premise of the stylus eating a record. Supplied are pictures of what a coating looks like on a recird. Why hide the sub micron detail found in the record's groove?
Another great video!