I have a 7 month old ficus that was a cutting of 3 cm. Now its finger thick and absolutely huge already. Crazy roots. It grows in pure akadama. Indoor in Norway.
Thanks for totally new knowledge on using native media for bonsai. Yes I am the one have suffered a lot from buying Akadama. I now use pumice, lava grain (pasir malang) plus activated carbon ( burn husk) and brick grain.
Tried Akadama as well a few times. Wasn’t happy as my soils stayed way to wet and my pots clogged up. I’m a big fan of lava/pumice/perlite mix. Zone 13 Indonesia.
I like you have found Acadama tends to break down far to quickly, half way down the bag it is almost dust, when I sieve it I finish up with loads of dust which I can’t use and I have paid for. Thanks for making your video’s.
You keep saying pumice has vitamins in it. Vitamins are organic compounds and I really don’t believe there are any in an inorganic material of volcanic origin like pumice. So please can you tell me which vitamins are in pumice or do you add them?
High quality akadama doesn't break easily. Look for the 3 line hard akadama. You will be thrilled when you see the root growth. Roots grow easily on outer part of the root ball but it is important to keep them ramified inside. Akadama is quite effective having a good root system in short time.
I used it once, that was that. Personally I tend to use a lot more actual peat based compost for my trees than most do. I cannot afford trees drying out at the rate they would with your mix or similar ones. Volcanic rock, perlite, grit and clay based cat litter (interchangeably depending what I have) as 1 part with one part compost. Often I’ll use more compost for trees which like to be damp or smaller pots and more of the aggregates for larger pots. Only problem is wet in the winter but my best trees go under cover. Whatever works. For me this does because I need to be able to leave trees for a few days even in summer.
Here in South Africa’s Western Cape, where the climate is similar to San Diego, I use Akadama, along with Pumice and Coconut Fibre (1/3 each) for potting South Africa’s indigenous succulent plants. I add a very small amount of a slow-release cactus/succulent fertilizer. Plants respond quite well to the mix. I also repot every two to three years, and annually, add more slow-release fertilizer. Fresh/vital soil mixes require turnover. Otherwise, soil mix can become quite depleted leading to plant disease etc.
I actually like the akadama for the fact that it brakes down, when you have very advanced trees after a couple years you get smaller internodes and smaller roots(they brake akadama and get smaller and smaller) the problem is that you have to repot but you have to repot anyways every 2-3 years. When you substitute akadama you need something with High CEC and in your case you use pine bark. I’d say that as long as the diameter of the grains is correct (small for shohin and refined, big for prebonsai and plants that need high vigor) every mix with some CEC, very airy, that prevents rotting is fine
Thanks for addressing it, Jerome. I've had this question about your soil. Been using your soil in different trees over the past couple of years, and I gradually used it more often when I repot something from old akadama mix. I know there are many opinions out there, and people in my club are pro akadama but I got no complaints so far.
Its good that we talk about this. Akadama is a specific Japanese horticultural component for Japanese Bonsai, and it doesn't make sense to ship it abroad as an absolute part of Bonsai. All the science behind Akadama is great and it is for sure the most amazing soil particle that cant be beat 1:1 with anything, but it is non-renewable and such a circumstantial thing to even exist that to become reliant on it for the art is irresponsible. It does also come with some inherent limitations that i think are detrimental overall to its rating as a good component. Different species work better in different mixtures; different local climates cause a diversity of weather erosion differences acting upon Akadama; and as mentioned- its guaranteed breakdown forces repotting, that if forced on a tree due to akadama breakdown at the wrong time in the year or in the trees health circumstances, can doom the tree to death. because of all this its wise to take some hints from interesting example of techniques. Dan Robinson doesn't repot at all, ever. while certainly a bit radical, his trees don't die and continue to thrive because root disruption is always risky and damaging to the most vital part of a tree. the balance of choice is: using akadama allows to produce that super refined form in a tree for at least a period of time but at the expense of more extensive care and careful health consideration and observation- more caution, meanwhile using Aggregates and fine Mulch allow for sustainable thriving trees that require less caution for potential repots with longer spans between them but at the expense of having a some refinement limitations. Just how significant the refinement differences are between developed trees in Japan and those in America, is probably arguable. it may be more a debate on short-term competitive perfection vrs timeless natural beauty.
If akadama was not so expensive I would use it exclusively. Akadam has the perfect retention, ion exchange capacity, aeration qualities and has one of the best color changes from dry to wet. It needs to be sifted and the size particles determine how often soil should be replaced. Growing without organic soil has a lot of advantages. Without organic content you can water more often woo it root rot. I can’t just using it for all plants and for many I don’t use it at all. My go to soil for conifers is 95% medium/large pumice 5% coco coir per Eric Shrader experience/ments. Sone trees like Willows, wisteria and bald cypress stand in water and for these I use lots of organic material bc the roots don’t have the same need for air exposure. There’s a lot to take into consideration but to me particle size is just as important as content. Pot size, weather and watering schedules and also in the end probably more important than what’s in the soil. White pines got root rot so easily if over watered. For these I do not use large particle organic like bark. Doing so is a recipe for dying roots. In the end I think most people overwater and cutting back on that and letting our plants roots breath is probably the best thing we can do. When used correctly akadama does this really well. Look at what the best growers in the world use. In Japan it’s local and akadama has a long standing history. The Japanese are slow to change but also probably still the best in the world at growing healthy small trees in pots.
In Germany it is kind of popular (at least for some and people on a budget) to use expanded clay, the brand is "Fibotherm". It doesn't break down and can be used in all kind of mix. I bought Akadama when I started Bonsai, but it's way too expensive, at least for my trees. Works good in the German climate though.
Akadama quality has been decreasing a lot indeed. This year I repotted a lot of trees using the 1:1:1 ratio that I've been using for years and after a few months some of my trees started to die. When I removed them from the pot, the lower half part of it was just a clay brick that rotted most of the roots killing the trees, while everything looked perfect the half part of the soil. This cost me 4 trees, including my very first and most loved bonsai... 😢 It is as you said: even when the bags arrive, half of them is already clay dust. Never using akadama again, unless it returns to their old quality. I'm in Europe by the way.
Not all akadama is equal. I bought one brand that was terrible like yours, and another brand that is fantastic. Super Hard Akadama “Ryusen” has always been good to me. I use a 2:1:1 for everything. Except deciduous gets 100% akadama.
Someone asked and I didn't see a response. I would like to know, as well, what is your ratio of lava, pumice, pine bark (1/4") and calcined clay. Equal volumes or ?????
That was a really interesting video. As a novice I got into Bonsai 2 years ago at the start of the pandemic. Whilst there appears to be general consensus on tree styles, types and pot matching, the issue of ´soil mix’ seems to be the one which generates the widest difference of opinion amongst Bonsai enthusiasts. I have been very fortunate to have the guidance of a local Bonsai nursery in the North of England and, whilst they use some Akadama in their soil mix they also use Pine Bark and locally sourced Baked Expanded Clay.
Thank you for your feedback Peter! It is very true, the Bonsai community is so divided on the soil topic when it should be more of an aha instead of a defense situation.
tIt also stopped using Acadama after not likng the results after using it for the first time. I am still trying to find the right soil mixture. Thank you for telling us your soil contents. what turned e off about the Akadama is the cos and lack of results. Can you telll me where to order the lava and clay?
For trees in early development, what are your thoughts on replacing the clay with fox farm ocean forest soil. My theory is the extra organic material will help young trees grow faster. Also I travel sometimes an can’t always water every day. Finally I live in coastal Southern California so weather is generally mild to warm
If you’re getting 50% dust out of a bag of akadama, then I think it’s not a good enough quality akadama for bonsai. That sort of akadama’s normally used for like annual flowers and plants like that. Good quality hard akadama lets the roots naturally scale down with the breakdown of the particle without hindering drainage- more ramified roots in a given container make finer ramification in the canopy possible. Refined bonsai can reach world class levels of ramification after decades in the same container with that core root ball of akadama and pumice untouched That said, it is expensive and I think should be reserved for highly refined trees that warrant the cost of akadama, while we look for more economically and sustainably appropriate alternatives (like “oredama”, similarly volcanic origin particles in the US). It could be that what Japan’s exporting / what we’re importing is less and less quality, I’d be curious to hear what other professionals have to say about this topic because there are many out there who get plenty of utility out of akadama going decades between repots to really slow a tree down and get insanely tiny, fine twigging. That breaking down feature of good quality akadama is an asset- because the longer you can go between repots, the better. Longevity in the container is the name of the game I think Michael Hagedorn breaks it down best in his book Bonsai Heresy, anyone serious about bonsai should give it a read. Absolutely fantastic book
I noticed the spendy bags of it at the Bonsai club meetings for sale, was alarmed at its crushability. I use Turface with Styrofoam peanuts at the base of the pot with a self-watering wick, outstanding for my cactus, succulents, bonsai and many tropicals.
I'm not very experienced, but I can say that your akadama looks *nothing* like the akadama I buy in Japan. In fact your calcite clay is *much* closer to what I buy as akadama here. Actually, akadama is not very expensive here. I think I paid about 700 yen (less than $7) for 12 liters the last time I bought it. It's actually cheaper than the other components I buy (for example kanuma pumice is more expensive). To be honest, I think a lot of people here buy akadama *because* it is cheap. At least out in the countryside where I live. I will agree that the akadama breaks down over time, but really only after several years. The idea that it would break down after only one year shocks me. To be fair, trees from the nursery are often in really terrible broken down akadama. I picked up a young pine during the winter and had to do an emergency repot because, as you say, it was planted in a brick. So I guess you *can* buy the bad stuff here too, if you know where to look :-)
The akadama available to me is very high quality, as good as the best stuff in Japan. I don't use it at 100%, at most 1:1 with other substrates. Breaking down is a feature, not a problem, as it leads to fine roots. You should not have to touch the shin of an old root ball for decades if ever, so it really doesn't matter if the soil has broken down. I don't find that it impedes water flow, even after many years.
well done, i stopped using akadama in 2007 when i started using molar clay!! & i would never ever use it again, it turns to mush in 3 days once it come into contact with water, why anyone uses it is beyond me?
I have 3 trees that I recently repotted using akadama supplied by my bonsai club. My other trees have a mix. I will have to observe the differences over time. Thanks Jerome.
I want hundred percent agree I live in East Tennessee in akadama especially in smaller pots it's just not going to get the oxygen and water and mush . The same plant I will pour water in through the top two years ago and would drain free instantly now seems to be so broken down it takes forever to get any watering in
Thanks for making this video. I’ve been done with akadama for a couple years. I only have one tree left to repot out of akadama. The drainage is awful.
Lack of availability drives me to use pine bark in place of akadama. In the upper Midwest, akadama is scarce. Pine bark and akadama couldn't be more different, yet they share very important attributes. You can grow trees without akadama, but I wouldn't grow a tree without a little pine bark in the mix. CEC, water storage and availability, particle size, sturdy host for microbial life, predictable PH. Huzzah for pine bark. Great video!
Thanks for sharing your personal experiences. You are indeed a brave man! As Michael Hagadorn put it in Bonsai Heresy, talking about Akadama "...is a touchy thing in many places outside of Japan where strapping on body armor before entering the argumentative fray is considered wise, along with a cell phone to call for backup." I personally never liked the cost or "behavior" of akadama. I use pumice, scoria (volcanic grit), decomposed granite as my base. I can get all either free from the Idaho mountains or from the pumice mine less than 100 miles away. I might add Surface (calcined clay), pine bark and in a pinch sphagnum moss. I don't repot as frequent as many do and my trees do nicely. Its OK to take off the body armor now.....
@@Darkfire1300 You mentioned a pumice mine so that is what I was referring to. I have not put pumice and cinder in the same category. I realize that they both are volcanic but thought they had different mineral content.
Saya sangat setuju pendapat anda, walaupun pada awal nya bonsai berasal dari cina dan populer di jepang, tapi kita bisa membentuk bonsai dari negara kita sendiri dimana sumber daya dan bahan baku untuk bonsai bisa menyesuai kan dimana kita tinggal, jadi kenapa kita harus mencari kesana.😊
I'd rather take your opinion than blindly using whatever is in the text book. I think tree care needs to be altered depending on location, climate, etc. My climate is very dry so I have to trap more moisture than normal, so I tend to use some peat mixed in and gravel in a water tray under the pot, which could cause root rot in Florida or Georgia, I'm sure. Anyways, good video!
The point of using akadama is that it is SUPPOSED to break down. IT adjusts to the aging cycle of the root mass allowing it to retain moisture. In a hot subtropical climate this is an excellent quality to have. Your mileage may vary, especially if you aren't mindfully watering your trees.
While the one or other of us will well agree, BS has a valid point not to speak of the carbon footprint akadama leaves being transported from Japan into the world. Here in Germany I use instead of Akadama solutions like Fibotherm or similar clay based materials and must agree with the main point in the video....although, I don't have 13 years of experience yet.
Other factors in favor of Akadama are its cationic exchange properties, and root bifurcation. I perceive the primary dissatisfaction with Akadama to be the cost. It is expensive, no question. The quality issues can be minimized by using Aoki Blend. It is even more expensive, but the quality is better in my experience. And I have found Akadama to be less important on trees in development. No need to spend the money on trees that aren't being refined in the pot. JMO, Jerome knows what works best for him and there is no question his mix will work.
Thank you for you video, I appreciated it. I use akadama only for mature shohin mixed with pumice, because it lets the soul drying most evenly. For chuhin I use only pumice and a bit of sand, about 10%.
Like most things in Bonsai the use of or not Akadama is subjective to what you feel is the best for your trees . In the Uk most main dealer bonsai suppliers all have there own version of what is the best soil and suggest there's is the best. I have bought from different suppliers, when you open the bag it has a high percentage of dust. I am trying out cat litter and pine bark with a little perlite and to keep the soil open horticultural grit. This is the first year of this mixture ,but so far all my re potted trees are doing well
I don't get it.... All the world renowned pros use it, and i don't get bags half full of dust. I buy the triple red line, cheap as i can find it, and in the states that aint always easy. Better CEC and it only breaks down after about 2 years when i need to repot anyway. Not cheap, but neither is lava or pumice. The Japanese use it, the National Arboretum in DC uses it, and common juniper is the only thing ive ever seen that doesn't like it.
The biggest thing about akadama use is that it slows growth down tremendously. Furthermore akadama should only be used at the last 20% of a trees development which eliminates a large number of all practitioners. Therefore I suggest to use a soil without Akadama until you are in the refinement stage when you want the tree to slow down and develop shorter internodes. Also, a large point of this video was to promote a native soil mix.
This is very brave of you Jerome 😁👏👏. In the UK many of the more “experienced” growers are almost cult-like or even perhaps blinkered or misguided in their use of Akadama. My personal experience (particularly of pure Akadama) has been that it can dry out very, very quickly, particularly with shohin trees in smaller pots and requires watering every couple of hours in warmer weather. At the very least my experience is that it needs to be mixed with something organic. Also not a fan of how it degrades to a solid brick over time. I personally prefer to use a moler clay (same as calcined clay? available as certain brands of cat litter in the UK or safety absorbent for oil spills) with perlite. I also like to use agricultural sand or grit and a small element of regular compost in my mix since this makes the mix free draining and porous whilst holding pockets of water, but is very much more forgiving and not wholly inorganic. I get great root development so it appears to be working as I need in my own temperate climate, in the UK. I would not however claim to have any very mature, highly refined show stopper trees. Akadama is Japanese soil which means it has a certain mystique and prestige perhaps allowing some to think that because bonsai originates in Japan and they are using Japanese soil that they are bonsai elites. The Japanese use it because it is local, and suits their growing climate and native trees. If there are other products which have similar properties and benefits locally then why would you NOT use them? I would say that the obsession with the exact or correct soil mix is misguided. And talking in absolutes a little foolish. In nature trees grow in all sorts of different soils. The key is to know the properties of the various ingredients and aggregates you are mixing, and what they bring to the mix. Worrying about exact proportions is also a bit silly since this is not an exact science. Whether you mix a third or a quarter of a particular element is unlikely to give very significant results.
@@LizMcNamara47 Either Kitty Friend from Pets at Home (in a 30ltr bag for about £15) or Tesco Low Dust Non Clumping (in a bag about 8ltr for about £5). The cat litter must be terracotta in colour. Anything else has the wrong properties and will likely break down with water and clump together.
Hey Jason! Yes, of course I have to be brave for all of us non Akadama users, lol! When using kitty litter you have to be careful not to use the kind that has chemicals. That is exactly right, it is local and so they use local soils which makes a lot of sense for them.
Can’t see that I agree with your mix, or reasons not to use akadama. I’ve worked on many trees over the years, including many Museum trees. Akadama has by far scaled the trees roots finer than any other product. If one wants high quality ramification akadama is the ticket I can understand the price argument… if one doesn’t recycle their media… which most shops don’t want to recommend as this would lose them money…! If one does there is no price issue, but a long term savings. Yet it also seems your suppliers are sending you a very low caliber product. Perhaps you merel needed to find one that can send you a quality product…. The example of all that dross is incredible… unless you were showing the very bottom of the bag? Additionally, the example of squeezing the akadama and breaking it down easily shows a vastly inferior product and perhaps excessive force. btw Akadama is not meant to be crushed. It’s not lava… it’s not pumice and needs to be handled properly. Not excessively chopsticked or jammed down in the pot. Calcined clay opens up a bag of worms, especially if it starts getting dry… which happens and doesn’t have the molecular tunnels akadama has. But has a high mark up too. Using pine bark is good as an additive, yet if one complains about clogging up root pores, pine bark breakdown is by far faster than akadama. Requiring more frequent repots. Frankly I think constantly buying media is just a marketing scheme. I’ve washed recycled, sieved and reused ALL the bonsai media I can get my hands on for the past three years from various sources and the recovery rate of akadama that has been properly handled, from trees that have been potted for over five years is about 70% original mix. Reheating to over 350F yields a firm useable product, indistinguishable from the new product. Adding a bit more akadama is vastly less expensive. All pumice and lava (which is not a required media btw) is also recovered…. Thus there are vastly decreased costs by recycling. Finally, akadama transmits water even if scaled down… Kanuma, widely used for fine azaleas is the layer just beneath akadama, has virtually identical properties to akadama and also creates a massive shin on these trees. It also has to be properly treated.
The point you are trying to make about the scaling of the finer roots and ramification is valid, but as you mentioned, in very well-ramified, older trees that have been in training for a long time. Akadama is more of a finisher. Using Akadama on younger and medium established trees which is what most of us have, wouldn't be helpful as it slows down the tree's growth tremendously, which is what you would want to preserve and further improve the ramification. I have been doing Bonsai for over 15 years now in 3 different climates, and I have trees in all stages of training. I have also tried every Akadama brand under the sun. Also, there are more Bonsai practitioners worldwide that do not use Akadama but still manage to produce some of the most outstanding trees in the world. To finish off, the point of this video was to introduce a native soil made here in the United States that can stand up to the APL mix, an alternative.
I am new to this and I have been using bonsai supply bonsai soil. I am due to get a 13 year old Fukien tree this week from Florida and what if the Nursery I am getting it from has used organic soil? Do I wait for springtime to check it? And repot if the roots are overly big?
Hi Carol! Thank you for all your support! Since Fukien Tea is a Tropical tree, I would repot it in the Summer time, when it is nice and hot. You can wash out all of the black soil and go directly into our All purpose bonsai soil mix.
By the look of the material you're showing I would suggest that it's not proper/real akadama. Real akadama that is suitable for bonsai soil is found in deep layers, the material shown here is basically found on the upper surface. Hence, it's so brittle. If you've been using this brand for so many years, then I would suggest that your supplier is no longer able to source the same quality material they once did. I appreciate that you mentioned this was your personal experience, but akadama is almost essential in Bonsai soil for many reasons, as I'm sure you're aware. I would advise trying a different brand on some of your trees and see how you get on.
HI! We used every Akadama brand under the sun over the last 10 years or so. It just doesn't do it for us.We want our trees to grow quickly and Akadama tends to slow root and branch growth down.
Hey Jerome, Brave man you are to take on this topic- it’s a controversial one for sure. I have been working to put together a soil mix that works in my climate, coastal South Carolina, super humid and very wet thru the summer and fall, the first 3 years I was here my trees struggled with to much water retention no matter what I put them in. Two years ago I was introduced to expanded shale, by the guys at Underhill Bonsai. I have substituted this now for akadama in my soil mix and it has worked beautifully, providing nice ion exchange, but is super stabile, and provides great drainage to prevent water logging. Only down side to it is it is heavy, so big trees can be rough on the back to move around. Nice video explanation, brave man ! Cheers!
Thank you Kyle! I believe one can say anything they like as long as it is in a respectable way and has proven results. You’d be surprised to hear that in Thailand lots of bonsai artists use dried leaves as soil.
@@WeareTheBonsaiSupply That's interesting to know. I was thinking about experimenting with used black tea leaves to add to soil once I get my hands on Camelia sinensis. It seems to be bit funny and interesting thing to try. 😀
I totally get it. It’s hit or miss when I get a new bag of akadama. When I do get a good bag, I’ll usually save it for shohin . It does well for me up here in Virginia. I’m definitely gonna look into the calcined clay though. Thanks for your videos, it’s all good.
I would use our soil for that. I grew all my Tropicals in that mix when I lived in Florida and they did excellent! Here is the link to the website: thebonsaisupply.com/collections/bonsai-soil
I've never used Akadama in my potting media mix. When I started bonsai many years ago I don't think it was even available here in the MidWest. I used Turface, shredded pine bark, and crushed granite (chicken grit) as the main ingredients. Turface, a fired clay particle, has become ridiculously expensive, so I started experimenting with clay particle kitty litter; some brands of it break down and turn to "concrete" much as you described the Akadama, but some seem to have firmer particles. More recently I started experimenting with a clay based SafetySorb meant for soaking up oil and chemical spills. It seems to work pretty well. The past few years I have bought 50 lb bags of lava rock from the home improvement store and crushed it with a sledge hammer into 1/4 inch particles (1 cm.), more or less. It is a lot of work but works great. Recently I have also experimented with perlite additions to the mix. For deciduous trees I will add some peat moss to the mix to aid moisture retention. The main advantage I see in pumice, lava rock, and perllite over crushed granite is lighter weight. Large pots filled with the clay particle, pine bark, crushed granite mix are extremely heavy. Lava, perlite, and pumice are much less dense and make a noticeable difference when lifting pots. Of courses if you only have small trees this doesn't matter much but if you like big trees like I do it is a big deal.
I am in Australia do you have the brands that you work with for Lava rock(size) Pumice (size) Pine bark (size) Calcite clay (size) thankyou we all love your work 😊
Understanding the structure of Akadama is key to understanding Akadama. The worlds best Bonsai that are highly ramified have been grown in Akadama. If you want highly refined trees with amazing ramification there is no substitute for it . But if you want to grow and develop trees then yes don’t use it. Once you get to the refinement stage you really do want to use Akadama .
I get what you are saying. Just as an FYI some of the best bonsai trees in the world are grown in Asia and most of those bonsai masters do not have access or the means to pay for akadama, yet they create the most spectacular trees.
Cost and availability may be one thing, but many growers simply have found materials or mixes they prefer by now. I'm pretty sure Walter Pall could have a truckload of akadama delivered to his garden, yet none of his indubitably world-class trees has akadama in its pot.
Where do you get your calcined clay? I have tried using using Turface but is a waste of money and aggregate size is very small. Any help you can provide is appreciated.
You can get Safe T Sorb which has larger particle size and is less expensive. I purchase it at Tractor Supply. Turface is available in bulk from a local grass seed and feed store.
I've just started trying akadama, it seems to be working really well for my Englemann Spruce, larch, and Giant Sequoia. I am growing out other deciduous in pond baskets right now, so don't really have experience with it there... I haven't used it with Pines or Junipers yet
Hi Jerome, I see that the particle size is larger than average. Can you make a (short) video and then explain why you chose that size. What I usually see is a smaller particle size. In the Netherlands (Europe) where I live, the larger size is often not used. I want to use a similar soil mix as your universal soil mix, but I am unsure about particle size.
3 parts lava 1 pet pumice 1 part clay 1 part pine. It’s a lot cheaper to get it already pre mixed though. Here is the link; thebonsaisupply.com/collections/bonsai-soil
I have question for you..why do you need 13 years to realise? It's funny when you say "it's expensive" at list after 13 years and "why we don't use our native soil", nice review my frend..
The clay your using, where do you get it and what is the brand name? I was referred to your site by a Bonsai friend in Houston where I lived for 30 years, where is your Nursery? You can call me Ronsai, I’ve been practicing and learning Bonsai for 53 years. You bring up some interesting points and once you Provide with the above information We might be able to exchange some interesting information. Life is Bonsai, everything else is potting soil! Bonsai in the Ozark’s
Great informative video thank you. What do you recommend specifically for indoor Bonsai soil mix (I have a Ficus Retusa, Chinese Privet and a Fukien tree)? Your Universal Bonsai Soil Mix?
great video , im a beginner by most standards (4 - 5 years) and im looking to find the most effective soil , so your explanation are very imformative thank you
I agree with you, we hobbyists from Indonesia, rarely or not commonly use Akadama. We use our local product in the form of black volcanic soil mixed with other organic materials, such as rice husks, and the effect is amazing for plant health and growth.
I agree with you.. I don't know the quality of akadama in Japan, but same with you, the quality of akadama in my country is very bad. Plus in tropical countries like Indonesia, frequent rains make akadama destroyed faster
I have not. Doing research on both products I have not been convinced that either was good. Pine bark has lots more nutritional value and other benefits such as fertilizer up sorption etc.
I also do not like Akadama. I think there is a snob factor to using it. For 30 years I have used - calcite clay, granite dust (small particles of quarry dust 3-5mm) and pine bark. Sometimes just the quarry dust and pine bark. Pumice in the mix is also great. I have not ever used lava rock, but makes sense.
Every plant species grows in a different type of soil, there also many different plant species grow in same type of soil, and many more grow without soil at all, epiphytes...!
Here, in Sweden, I always used non-clump, non-perfumed cat litter from the Danish food chain "Netto". Alas, Netto was bought out by the Swedish company COOP so now I'm screwed. Netto still exists in Denmark so I could travel over the bridge to Copenhagen but I'm not sure they even carry that product anymore. 😐
Few months ago I tried to repot a Carmona that was having some roots problems ,and I've noticed that brick situation you was talking about in this video. Unfortunately I was late and the bonsai died BUT I learned how akadama is a fuckin mess once it becames an old soil.
Dimorphous Clay (Molar Clay) works just as well as Acadama, cheaper and it doesn’t break down! PH is around 5.5 so you do need to buffer it with organic material.
Wow, I can see your point. As the akadama breaks down it can fill in the small porous crevices of the lava rock. Also, I'm sure that the sharpness OF the lava rock scrapes against the Akadama causing breakdown and causing clogged lava rock. Good points.
I have a 7 month old ficus that was a cutting of 3 cm. Now its finger thick and absolutely huge already. Crazy roots. It grows in pure akadama. Indoor in Norway.
Thanks for totally new knowledge on using native media for bonsai. Yes I am the one have suffered a lot from buying Akadama. I now use pumice, lava grain (pasir malang) plus activated carbon ( burn husk) and brick grain.
Excellent! I’m glad I could help 🙂🌳
Tried Akadama as well a few times. Wasn’t happy as my soils stayed way to wet and my pots clogged up. I’m a big fan of lava/pumice/perlite mix. Zone 13 Indonesia.
Nice video !
Where do you get your calcined clay? What brand?
You can try cat litter,just make sure it is not the clumping type, cat litter is calcined clay
This is what we use thebonsaisupply.com/collections/bonsai-soil
@@raymonddeguara5678 As long as it isn't chemically treaded
I like you have found Acadama tends to break down far to quickly, half way down the bag it is almost dust, when I sieve it I finish up with loads of dust which I can’t use and I have paid for. Thanks for making your video’s.
You keep saying pumice has vitamins in it. Vitamins are organic compounds and I really don’t believe there are any in an inorganic material of volcanic origin like pumice. So please can you tell me which vitamins are in pumice or do you add them?
High quality akadama doesn't break easily. Look for the 3 line hard akadama. You will be thrilled when you see the root growth. Roots grow easily on outer part of the root ball but it is important to keep them ramified inside. Akadama is quite effective having a good root system in short time.
Hi! I’ve used the triple line for many years. I’m not saying akadama is bad I just get better results with my own soil mixture 🙂
I used it once, that was that.
Personally I tend to use a lot more actual peat based compost for my trees than most do. I cannot afford trees drying out at the rate they would with your mix or similar ones. Volcanic rock, perlite, grit and clay based cat litter (interchangeably depending what I have) as 1 part with one part compost. Often I’ll use more compost for trees which like to be damp or smaller pots and more of the aggregates for larger pots. Only problem is wet in the winter but my best trees go under cover. Whatever works. For me this does because I need to be able to leave trees for a few days even in summer.
Here in South Africa’s Western Cape, where the climate is similar to San Diego, I use Akadama, along with Pumice and Coconut Fibre (1/3 each) for potting South Africa’s indigenous succulent plants. I add a very small amount of a slow-release cactus/succulent fertilizer. Plants respond quite well to the mix. I also repot every two to three years, and annually, add more slow-release fertilizer. Fresh/vital soil mixes require turnover. Otherwise, soil mix can become quite depleted leading to plant disease etc.
What are your ratios of your aggregates? 1 to 1?
I actually like the akadama for the fact that it brakes down, when you have very advanced trees after a couple years you get smaller internodes and smaller roots(they brake akadama and get smaller and smaller) the problem is that you have to repot but you have to repot anyways every 2-3 years. When you substitute akadama you need something with High CEC and in your case you use pine bark. I’d say that as long as the diameter of the grains is correct (small for shohin and refined, big for prebonsai and plants that need high vigor) every mix with some CEC, very airy, that prevents rotting is fine
It is break, not brake. I hesitate to correct spelling but I think you are confused. Hopefully no more.
@@samuilc8000 yeah sorry english is my 4th language
@@alessandromassimo5717 Good! Now you know.
Thanks for addressing it, Jerome. I've had this question about your soil. Been using your soil in different trees over the past couple of years, and I gradually used it more often when I repot something from old akadama mix. I know there are many opinions out there, and people in my club are pro akadama but I got no complaints so far.
Thank you so much Ali! I am very happy to hear that it is working well for you.:)
I agree Jerome. We don't need akadama. It breaks down far too quickly causing all of the issues you mentioned.
Thank you Michael!
its basically clay soil after breaking down
Its good that we talk about this. Akadama is a specific Japanese horticultural component for Japanese Bonsai, and it doesn't make sense to ship it abroad as an absolute part of Bonsai. All the science behind Akadama is great and it is for sure the most amazing soil particle that cant be beat 1:1 with anything, but it is non-renewable and such a circumstantial thing to even exist that to become reliant on it for the art is irresponsible. It does also come with some inherent limitations that i think are detrimental overall to its rating as a good component. Different species work better in different mixtures; different local climates cause a diversity of weather erosion differences acting upon Akadama; and as mentioned- its guaranteed breakdown forces repotting, that if forced on a tree due to akadama breakdown at the wrong time in the year or in the trees health circumstances, can doom the tree to death. because of all this its wise to take some hints from interesting example of techniques. Dan Robinson doesn't repot at all, ever. while certainly a bit radical, his trees don't die and continue to thrive because root disruption is always risky and damaging to the most vital part of a tree. the balance of choice is: using akadama allows to produce that super refined form in a tree for at least a period of time but at the expense of more extensive care and careful health consideration and observation- more caution, meanwhile using Aggregates and fine Mulch allow for sustainable thriving trees that require less caution for potential repots with longer spans between them but at the expense of having a some refinement limitations. Just how significant the refinement differences are between developed trees in Japan and those in America, is probably arguable. it may be more a debate on short-term competitive perfection vrs timeless natural beauty.
If akadama was not so expensive I would use it exclusively. Akadam has the perfect retention, ion exchange capacity, aeration qualities and has one of the best color changes from dry to wet. It needs to be sifted and the size particles determine how often soil should be replaced. Growing without organic soil has a lot of advantages. Without organic content you can water more often woo it root rot. I can’t just using it for all plants and for many I don’t use it at all. My go to soil for conifers is 95% medium/large pumice 5% coco coir per Eric Shrader experience/ments. Sone trees like Willows, wisteria and bald cypress stand in water and for these I use lots of organic material bc the roots don’t have the same need for air exposure.
There’s a lot to take into consideration but to me particle size is just as important as content. Pot size, weather and watering schedules and also in the end probably more important than what’s in the soil. White pines got root rot so easily if over watered. For these I do not use large particle organic like bark. Doing so is a recipe for dying roots. In the end I think most people overwater and cutting back on that and letting our plants roots breath is probably the best thing we can do. When used correctly akadama does this really well. Look at what the best growers in the world use. In Japan it’s local and akadama has a long standing history. The Japanese are slow to change but also probably still the best in the world at growing healthy small trees in pots.
For me it's unfortunately not less expensive to buy your mix, compared to importing a good pumice/lava/akadama mix from another country.
In Germany it is kind of popular (at least for some and people on a budget) to use expanded clay, the brand is "Fibotherm". It doesn't break down and can be used in all kind of mix. I bought Akadama when I started Bonsai, but it's way too expensive, at least for my trees. Works good in the German climate though.
yes i do the same. you mix it with coconut soil?
Hi, good video. I'm located in Europe and I use domestic plants and domestic soil.
Akadama quality has been decreasing a lot indeed. This year I repotted a lot of trees using the 1:1:1 ratio that I've been using for years and after a few months some of my trees started to die. When I removed them from the pot, the lower half part of it was just a clay brick that rotted most of the roots killing the trees, while everything looked perfect the half part of the soil. This cost me 4 trees, including my very first and most loved bonsai... 😢
It is as you said: even when the bags arrive, half of them is already clay dust. Never using akadama again, unless it returns to their old quality. I'm in Europe by the way.
Not all akadama is equal. I bought one brand that was terrible like yours, and another brand that is fantastic. Super Hard Akadama “Ryusen” has always been good to me. I use a 2:1:1 for everything. Except deciduous gets 100% akadama.
Someone asked and I didn't see a response. I would like to know, as well, what is your ratio of lava, pumice, pine bark (1/4") and calcined clay. Equal volumes or ?????
That was a really interesting video. As a novice I got into Bonsai 2 years ago at the start of the pandemic. Whilst there appears to be general consensus on tree styles, types and pot matching, the issue of ´soil mix’ seems to be the one which generates the widest difference of opinion amongst Bonsai enthusiasts. I have been very fortunate to have the guidance of a local Bonsai nursery in the North of England and, whilst they use some Akadama in their soil mix they also use Pine Bark and locally sourced Baked Expanded Clay.
Thank you for your feedback Peter! It is very true, the Bonsai community is so divided on the soil topic when it should be more of an aha instead of a defense situation.
Hi Peter. Where is the UK expanded clay from? I'd like to try it
Used Turface mvp in all my stuff. Never had any issues . I do mix in some pine bark and lava rock added some sharps via black or red granite.
tIt also stopped using Acadama after not likng the results after using it for the first time. I am still trying to find the right soil mixture. Thank you for telling us your soil contents. what turned e off about the Akadama is the cos and lack of results. Can you telll me where to order the lava and clay?
For trees in early development, what are your thoughts on replacing the clay with fox farm ocean forest soil. My theory is the extra organic material will help young trees grow faster. Also I travel sometimes an can’t always water every day. Finally I live in coastal Southern California so weather is generally mild to warm
If you’re getting 50% dust out of a bag of akadama, then I think it’s not a good enough quality akadama for bonsai. That sort of akadama’s normally used for like annual flowers and plants like that. Good quality hard akadama lets the roots naturally scale down with the breakdown of the particle without hindering drainage- more ramified roots in a given container make finer ramification in the canopy possible. Refined bonsai can reach world class levels of ramification after decades in the same container with that core root ball of akadama and pumice untouched
That said, it is expensive and I think should be reserved for highly refined trees that warrant the cost of akadama, while we look for more economically and sustainably appropriate alternatives (like “oredama”, similarly volcanic origin particles in the US). It could be that what Japan’s exporting / what we’re importing is less and less quality, I’d be curious to hear what other professionals have to say about this topic because there are many out there who get plenty of utility out of akadama going decades between repots to really slow a tree down and get insanely tiny, fine twigging. That breaking down feature of good quality akadama is an asset- because the longer you can go between repots, the better. Longevity in the container is the name of the game
I think Michael Hagedorn breaks it down best in his book Bonsai Heresy, anyone serious about bonsai should give it a read. Absolutely fantastic book
I agree 100% I find it bothersome that I can just crush it between my fingers with very little effort
i used about 60% pumice, 30% sand, and 10% peat.
next time i would like to add some limestone chips.
I noticed the spendy bags of it at the Bonsai club meetings for sale, was alarmed at its crushability. I use Turface with Styrofoam peanuts at the base of the pot with a self-watering wick, outstanding for my cactus, succulents, bonsai and many tropicals.
I'm not very experienced, but I can say that your akadama looks *nothing* like the akadama I buy in Japan. In fact your calcite clay is *much* closer to what I buy as akadama here. Actually, akadama is not very expensive here. I think I paid about 700 yen (less than $7) for 12 liters the last time I bought it. It's actually cheaper than the other components I buy (for example kanuma pumice is more expensive). To be honest, I think a lot of people here buy akadama *because* it is cheap. At least out in the countryside where I live. I will agree that the akadama breaks down over time, but really only after several years. The idea that it would break down after only one year shocks me. To be fair, trees from the nursery are often in really terrible broken down akadama. I picked up a young pine during the winter and had to do an emergency repot because, as you say, it was planted in a brick. So I guess you *can* buy the bad stuff here too, if you know where to look :-)
The akadama available to me is very high quality, as good as the best stuff in Japan. I don't use it at 100%, at most 1:1 with other substrates. Breaking down is a feature, not a problem, as it leads to fine roots. You should not have to touch the shin of an old root ball for decades if ever, so it really doesn't matter if the soil has broken down. I don't find that it impedes water flow, even after many years.
well done, i stopped using akadama in 2007 when i started using molar clay!! & i would never ever use it again, it turns to mush in 3 days once it come into contact with water, why anyone uses it is beyond me?
Interresting video. Do you know chabasite zeolite ? I use with pumice .
I don’t understand, trees in the wild grow in soils, so how can they survive in just this loose rock no soil at all??
I have 3 trees that I recently repotted using akadama supplied by my bonsai club. My other trees have a mix. I will have to observe the differences over time. Thanks Jerome.
Wonderful Raymond! Let us know the results :)
I want hundred percent agree I live in East Tennessee in akadama especially in smaller pots it's just not going to get the oxygen and water and mush . The same plant I will pour water in through the top two years ago and would drain free instantly now seems to be so broken down it takes forever to get any watering in
What ratios are you supposed to use? If we go with these instead of akadama
Thanks for making this video. I’ve been done with akadama for a couple years. I only have one tree left to repot out of akadama. The drainage is awful.
My figs go absolutely nuts with akadama, perlite and coir peat. My junipers (squamata) love it too. Elms not so much.
Lack of availability drives me to use pine bark in place of akadama. In the upper Midwest, akadama is scarce. Pine bark and akadama couldn't be more different, yet they share very important attributes. You can grow trees without akadama, but I wouldn't grow a tree without a little pine bark in the mix. CEC, water storage and availability, particle size, sturdy host for microbial life, predictable PH. Huzzah for pine bark.
Great video!
Thanks for sharing your personal experiences. You are indeed a brave man! As Michael Hagadorn put it in Bonsai Heresy, talking about Akadama "...is a touchy thing in many places outside of Japan where strapping on body armor before entering the argumentative fray is considered wise, along with a cell phone to call for backup." I personally never liked the cost or "behavior" of akadama. I use pumice, scoria (volcanic grit), decomposed granite as my base. I can get all either free from the Idaho mountains or from the pumice mine less than 100 miles away. I might add Surface (calcined clay), pine bark and in a pinch sphagnum moss. I don't repot as frequent as many do and my trees do nicely. Its OK to take off the body armor now.....
I live in the Treasure Valley where can I get pumice?
I know where I can get the granite 👍
You can get volcanic grit from the public cinder cone areas south of Boise.
@@Darkfire1300 You mentioned a pumice mine so that is what I was referring to.
I have not put pumice and cinder in the same category.
I realize that they both are volcanic but thought they had different mineral content.
safetysorb perlite eco earth 20,20,20 dilute enjoy
Saya sangat setuju pendapat anda, walaupun pada awal nya bonsai berasal dari cina dan populer di jepang, tapi kita bisa membentuk bonsai dari negara kita sendiri dimana sumber daya dan bahan baku untuk bonsai bisa menyesuai kan dimana kita tinggal, jadi kenapa kita harus mencari kesana.😊
I'd rather take your opinion than blindly using whatever is in the text book. I think tree care needs to be altered depending on location, climate, etc. My climate is very dry so I have to trap more moisture than normal, so I tend to use some peat mixed in and gravel in a water tray under the pot, which could cause root rot in Florida or Georgia, I'm sure. Anyways, good video!
I'll use your experience as a guide. Thanks you save me some$$$
I got some akadama now thay look like there dieing out in uk 🇬🇧 and now im use coco balls and bat soil
The point of using akadama is that it is SUPPOSED to break down. IT adjusts to the aging cycle of the root mass allowing it to retain moisture. In a hot subtropical climate this is an excellent quality to have. Your mileage may vary, especially if you aren't mindfully watering your trees.
While the one or other of us will well agree, BS has a valid point not to speak of the carbon footprint akadama leaves being transported from Japan into the world. Here in Germany I use instead of Akadama solutions like Fibotherm or similar clay based materials and must agree with the main point in the video....although, I don't have 13 years of experience yet.
That's what the - locally sourced - pine bark is for (among other benefits it offers).
Other factors in favor of Akadama are its cationic exchange properties, and root bifurcation. I perceive the primary dissatisfaction with Akadama to be the cost. It is expensive, no question. The quality issues can be minimized by using Aoki Blend. It is even more expensive, but the quality is better in my experience. And I have found Akadama to be less important on trees in development. No need to spend the money on trees that aren't being refined in the pot. JMO, Jerome knows what works best for him and there is no question his mix will work.
One of the benefits of organic materials like bark actually is their CEC (about 5..6 times that of akadama).
@@andreasweber1533 ya have fun when your organics break down and root rot shows up
Thank you for you video, I appreciated it. I use akadama only for mature shohin mixed with pumice, because it lets the soul drying most evenly.
For chuhin I use only pumice and a bit of sand, about 10%.
Ya acadama is too expensive when i have to still buy the other additives
Like most things in Bonsai the use of or not Akadama is subjective to what you feel is the best for your trees . In the Uk most main dealer bonsai suppliers all have there own version of what is the best soil and suggest there's is the best. I have bought from different suppliers, when you open the bag it has a high percentage of dust. I am trying out cat litter and pine bark with a little perlite and to keep the soil open horticultural grit. This is the first year of this mixture ,but so far all my re potted trees are doing well
What I’ve learned is That Juniper along with evergreens do not like Academia for sure!
Lol and how did you come to this amazing conclusion when I personally know many people who use it with conifers
What is your opinion of TURFACE?
I actually like it but only when it is used as an additive and only in small quantity
I don't get it.... All the world renowned pros use it, and i don't get bags half full of dust. I buy the triple red line, cheap as i can find it, and in the states that aint always easy. Better CEC and it only breaks down after about 2 years when i need to repot anyway. Not cheap, but neither is lava or pumice. The Japanese use it, the National Arboretum in DC uses it, and common juniper is the only thing ive ever seen that doesn't like it.
The biggest thing about akadama use is that it slows growth down tremendously. Furthermore akadama should only be used at the last 20% of a trees development which eliminates a large number of all practitioners. Therefore I suggest to use a soil without Akadama until you are in the refinement stage when you want the tree to slow down and develop shorter internodes. Also, a large point of this video was to promote a native soil mix.
I'm *100% lava rock* team, works for me.
This is very brave of you Jerome 😁👏👏.
In the UK many of the more “experienced” growers are almost cult-like or even perhaps blinkered or misguided in their use of Akadama. My personal experience (particularly of pure Akadama) has been that it can dry out very, very quickly, particularly with shohin trees in smaller pots and requires watering every couple of hours in warmer weather. At the very least my experience is that it needs to be mixed with something organic. Also not a fan of how it degrades to a solid brick over time.
I personally prefer to use a moler clay (same as calcined clay? available as certain brands of cat litter in the UK or safety absorbent for oil spills) with perlite. I also like to use agricultural sand or grit and a small element of regular compost in my mix since this makes the mix free draining and porous whilst holding pockets of water, but is very much more forgiving and not wholly inorganic. I get great root development so it appears to be working as I need in my own temperate climate, in the UK. I would not however claim to have any very mature, highly refined show stopper trees.
Akadama is Japanese soil which means it has a certain mystique and prestige perhaps allowing some to think that because bonsai originates in Japan and they are using Japanese soil that they are bonsai elites. The Japanese use it because it is local, and suits their growing climate and native trees. If there are other products which have similar properties and benefits locally then why would you NOT use them?
I would say that the obsession with the exact or correct soil mix is misguided. And talking in absolutes a little foolish. In nature trees grow in all sorts of different soils. The key is to know the properties of the various ingredients and aggregates you are mixing, and what they bring to the mix. Worrying about exact proportions is also a bit silly since this is not an exact science. Whether you mix a third or a quarter of a particular element is unlikely to give very significant results.
Could you let us in on the kitty litter brand please?
@@LizMcNamara47 Either Kitty Friend from Pets at Home (in a 30ltr bag for about £15) or Tesco Low Dust Non Clumping (in a bag about 8ltr for about £5). The cat litter must be terracotta in colour. Anything else has the wrong properties and will likely break down with water and clump together.
Hey Jason! Yes, of course I have to be brave for all of us non Akadama users, lol! When using kitty litter you have to be careful not to use the kind that has chemicals. That is exactly right, it is local and so they use local soils which makes a lot of sense for them.
@@LizMcNamara47 I do not use Kitty litter, instead I use Calcined clay which you can find here. thebonsaisupply.com/collections/bonsai-soil
@@TheBonsaiGarden As long as you are using Kitty litter that does not have chemicals.:)
Can’t see that I agree with your mix, or reasons not to use akadama. I’ve worked on many trees over the years, including many Museum trees. Akadama has by far scaled the trees roots finer than any other product. If one wants high quality ramification akadama is the ticket
I can understand the price argument… if one doesn’t recycle their media… which most shops don’t want to recommend as this would lose them money…! If one does there is no price issue, but a long term savings.
Yet it also seems your suppliers are sending you a very low caliber product. Perhaps you merel needed to find one that can send you a quality product…. The example of all that dross is incredible… unless you were showing the very bottom of the bag?
Additionally, the example of squeezing the akadama and breaking it down easily shows a vastly inferior product and perhaps excessive force. btw Akadama is not meant to be crushed. It’s not lava… it’s not pumice and needs to be handled properly. Not excessively chopsticked or jammed down in the pot.
Calcined clay opens up a bag of worms, especially if it starts getting dry… which happens and doesn’t have the molecular tunnels akadama has. But has a high mark up too. Using pine bark is good as an additive, yet if one complains about clogging up root pores, pine bark breakdown is by far faster than akadama. Requiring more frequent repots.
Frankly I think constantly buying media is just a marketing scheme. I’ve washed recycled, sieved and reused ALL the bonsai media I can get my hands on for the past three years from various sources and the recovery rate of akadama that has been properly handled, from trees that have been potted for over five years is about 70% original mix. Reheating to over 350F yields a firm useable product, indistinguishable from the new product. Adding a bit more akadama is vastly less expensive. All pumice and lava (which is not a required media btw) is also recovered…. Thus there are vastly decreased costs by recycling.
Finally, akadama transmits water even if scaled down… Kanuma, widely used for fine azaleas is the layer just beneath akadama, has virtually identical properties to akadama and also creates a massive shin on these trees. It also has to be properly treated.
The point you are trying to make about the scaling of the finer roots and ramification is valid, but as you mentioned, in very well-ramified, older trees that have been in training for a long time. Akadama is more of a finisher. Using Akadama on younger and medium established trees which is what most of us have, wouldn't be helpful as it slows down the tree's growth tremendously, which is what you would want to preserve and further improve the ramification. I have been doing Bonsai for over 15 years now in 3 different climates, and I have trees in all stages of training. I have also tried every Akadama brand under the sun. Also, there are more Bonsai practitioners worldwide that do not use Akadama but still manage to produce some of the most outstanding trees in the world. To finish off, the point of this video was to introduce a native soil made here in the United States that can stand up to the APL mix, an alternative.
I am new to this and I have been using bonsai supply bonsai soil. I am due to get a 13 year old Fukien tree this week from Florida and what if the Nursery I am getting it from has used organic soil? Do I wait for springtime to check it? And repot if the roots are overly big?
Hi Carol! Thank you for all your support! Since Fukien Tea is a Tropical tree, I would repot it in the Summer time, when it is nice and hot. You can wash out all of the black soil and go directly into our All purpose bonsai soil mix.
By the look of the material you're showing I would suggest that it's not proper/real akadama. Real akadama that is suitable for bonsai soil is found in deep layers, the material shown here is basically found on the upper surface. Hence, it's so brittle. If you've been using this brand for so many years, then I would suggest that your supplier is no longer able to source the same quality material they once did. I appreciate that you mentioned this was your personal experience, but akadama is almost essential in Bonsai soil for many reasons, as I'm sure you're aware. I would advise trying a different brand on some of your trees and see how you get on.
HI! We used every Akadama brand under the sun over the last 10 years or so. It just doesn't do it for us.We want our trees to grow quickly and Akadama tends to slow root and branch growth down.
When you use pine bark, is it fine or just regular cheap pine bark? And do you sift it at all? Thanks I enjoy your videos. Nancy
Hey Nancy! It is sifted pine bark chips, no 🪵. Check it out here: thebonsaisupply.com/products/pine-bark
و من که فارسی زبانم و متوجه نشدم ترکیبات ت صیه شده در این ویدیو چه چیزهایی بود😢
Hey Jerome, Brave man you are to take on this topic- it’s a controversial one for sure.
I have been working to put together a soil mix that works in my climate, coastal South Carolina, super humid and very wet thru the summer and fall, the first 3 years I was here my trees struggled with to much water retention no matter what I put them in. Two years ago I was introduced to expanded shale, by the guys at Underhill Bonsai. I have substituted this now for akadama in my soil mix and it has worked beautifully, providing nice ion exchange, but is super stabile, and provides great drainage to prevent water logging. Only down side to it is it is heavy, so big trees can be rough on the back to move around. Nice video explanation, brave man ! Cheers!
Thank you Kyle! I believe one can say anything they like as long as it is in a respectable way and has proven results. You’d be surprised to hear that in Thailand lots of bonsai artists use dried leaves as soil.
I believe it, you! You use what ya have available that works for your specific situation.
@@WeareTheBonsaiSupply That's interesting to know. I was thinking about experimenting with used black tea leaves to add to soil once I get my hands on Camelia sinensis. It seems to be bit funny and interesting thing to try. 😀
I totally get it. It’s hit or miss when I get a new bag of akadama. When I do get a good bag, I’ll usually save it for shohin . It does well for me up here in Virginia. I’m definitely gonna look into the calcined clay though. Thanks for your videos, it’s all good.
you said based on your plants and weather. What would suggest for tropical plants like Brazilian rain trees in south Florida?
I would use our soil for that. I grew all my Tropicals in that mix when I lived in Florida and they did excellent!
Here is the link to the website: thebonsaisupply.com/collections/bonsai-soil
what brand calcined clay?
At what ratio you make your mixture ?
Can use it in regular gardening large trees
Great video do you think this mix will work well with lophophora williamsii (Cactus) 🌵
That would work very wel
Where can this clay be purchased at? Also how many clays are suitable for this purpose?
Hi Charlie, you can get it right here: thebonsaisupply.com/collections/bonsai-soil
I've never used Akadama in my potting media mix. When I started bonsai many years ago I don't think it was even available here in the MidWest. I used Turface, shredded pine bark, and crushed granite (chicken grit) as the main ingredients. Turface, a fired clay particle, has become ridiculously expensive, so I started experimenting with clay particle kitty litter; some brands of it break down and turn to "concrete" much as you described the Akadama, but some seem to have firmer particles. More recently I started experimenting with a clay based SafetySorb meant for soaking up oil and chemical spills. It seems to work pretty well. The past few years I have bought 50 lb bags of lava rock from the home improvement store and crushed it with a sledge hammer into 1/4 inch particles (1 cm.), more or less. It is a lot of work but works great. Recently I have also experimented with perlite additions to the mix. For deciduous trees I will add some peat moss to the mix to aid moisture retention. The main advantage I see in pumice, lava rock, and perllite over crushed granite is lighter weight. Large pots filled with the clay particle, pine bark, crushed granite mix are extremely heavy. Lava, perlite, and pumice are much less dense and make a noticeable difference when lifting pots. Of courses if you only have small trees this doesn't matter much but if you like big trees like I do it is a big deal.
Please tell me you're not using perlite in your substrate
I am in Australia do you have the brands that you work with for
Lava rock(size)
Pumice (size)
Pine bark (size)
Calcite clay (size) thankyou we all love your work 😊
I’m not sure what you mean by brands? We manufacture everything ourselves 🙂
Products if that makes sense.thankyou for the reply
Understanding the structure of Akadama is key to understanding Akadama. The worlds best Bonsai that are highly
ramified have been grown in Akadama. If you want highly refined trees with amazing ramification there is no substitute for it . But if you want to grow and develop trees then yes don’t use it. Once you get to the refinement stage you really do want to use Akadama .
I get what you are saying. Just as an FYI some of the best bonsai trees in the world are grown in Asia and most of those bonsai masters do not have access or the means to pay for akadama, yet they create the most spectacular trees.
Cost and availability may be one thing, but many growers simply have found materials or mixes they prefer by now. I'm pretty sure Walter Pall could have a truckload of akadama delivered to his garden, yet none of his indubitably world-class trees has akadama in its pot.
With what can you chance clay?
How about zeolite?
Where do you get your calcined clay? I have tried using using Turface but is a waste of money and aggregate size is very small. Any help you can provide is appreciated.
You can get Safe T Sorb which has larger particle size and is less expensive. I purchase it at Tractor Supply. Turface is available in bulk from a local grass seed and feed store.
Hey Bushido, You can find it here thebonsaisupply.com/collections/bonsai-soil
Akadama is the best 👍🏼😀
I've just started trying akadama, it seems to be working really well for my Englemann Spruce, larch, and Giant Sequoia. I am growing out other deciduous in pond baskets right now, so don't really have experience with it there... I haven't used it with Pines or Junipers yet
It does just fine with pines and juniper
thnxs for the report
Hi Jerome, I see that the particle size is larger than average. Can you make a (short) video and then explain why you chose that size. What I usually see is a smaller particle size. In the Netherlands (Europe) where I live, the larger size is often not used. I want to use a similar soil mix as your universal soil mix, but I am unsure about particle size.
What do you use for trees, which needs alkaline soil?
Same soil! It works just fine.
I thought the reason we use akadama is to slow down the growth of the tree
You want that at some point but that’s the very very last step. On most trees you start to use akadama when they have been in training for 15& years
And the percents for the mix are: ..... ????
3 parts lava 1 pet pumice 1 part clay 1 part pine. It’s a lot cheaper to get it already pre mixed though.
Here is the link;
thebonsaisupply.com/collections/bonsai-soil
Great.... Now where the hell do I get calcined clay?
I don’t think he’ll carries calcined clay. You can find it Right here thebonsaisupply.com/collections/bonsai-soil
I have question for you..why do you need 13 years to realise? It's funny when you say "it's expensive" at list after 13 years and "why we don't use our native soil", nice review my frend..
Watch the video again. I’ve used it side by side for 13 years. And since the beginning I like mine better. I
I've watched your video with carefully and listened with clearlly..just asking no heart feelings my frend..
@@gerrydjianzonie4763 no hard feelings brother I’m just saying that I used them side by side for 13 years and one soil has performed much better
The clay your using, where do you get it and what is the brand name?
I was referred to your site by a Bonsai friend in Houston where I lived for 30 years, where is your Nursery?
You can call me Ronsai, I’ve been practicing and learning Bonsai for
53 years. You bring up some interesting points and once you
Provide with the above information
We might be able to exchange some interesting information.
Life is Bonsai, everything else is potting soil!
Bonsai in the Ozark’s
Sorry about the "spell check" I meant 🤣Turface, not Surface! A new product I guess
Great informative video thank you. What do you recommend specifically for indoor Bonsai soil mix (I have a Ficus Retusa, Chinese Privet and a Fukien tree)? Your Universal Bonsai Soil Mix?
great video , im a beginner by most standards (4 - 5 years) and im looking to find the most effective soil , so your explanation are very imformative thank you
Are akadama and mosato stone the same things??
I never heard of mosato. Akadama is Japanese clay
I agree with you, we hobbyists from Indonesia, rarely or not commonly use Akadama. We use our local product in the form of black volcanic soil mixed with other organic materials, such as rice husks, and the effect is amazing for plant health and growth.
I agree with you.. I don't know the quality of akadama in Japan, but same with you, the quality of akadama in my country is very bad. Plus in tropical countries like Indonesia, frequent rains make akadama destroyed faster
have you ever tried biochar or wood ash?
I have not. Doing research on both products I have not been convinced that either was good. Pine bark has lots more nutritional value and other benefits such as fertilizer up sorption etc.
I also do not like Akadama. I think there is a snob factor to using it. For 30 years I have used - calcite clay, granite dust (small particles of quarry dust 3-5mm) and pine bark. Sometimes just the quarry dust and pine bark. Pumice in the mix is also great. I have not ever used lava rock, but makes sense.
Every plant species grows in a different type of soil, there also many different plant species grow in same type of soil, and many more grow without soil at all, epiphytes...!
Here, in Sweden, I always used non-clump, non-perfumed cat litter from the Danish food chain "Netto". Alas, Netto was bought out by the Swedish company COOP so now I'm screwed. Netto still exists in Denmark so I could travel over the bridge to Copenhagen but I'm not sure they even carry that product anymore. 😐
Few months ago I tried to repot a Carmona that was having some roots problems ,and I've noticed that brick situation you was talking about in this video. Unfortunately I was late and the bonsai died BUT I learned how akadama is a fuckin mess once it becames an old soil.
A good pot with good drainage works fine , never used akadama and my bonsais grow nicely
Dimorphous Clay (Molar Clay) works just as well as Acadama, cheaper and it doesn’t break down! PH is around 5.5 so you do need to buffer it with organic material.
Is the calcined clay same as brick? Or the calcined clay u use is from calcinizing clay and limenstone?
Wow, I can see your point. As the akadama breaks down it can fill in the small porous crevices of the lava rock. Also, I'm sure that the sharpness OF the lava rock scrapes against the Akadama causing breakdown and causing clogged lava rock. Good points.