I run the engine on the hose til its warm. Then I put a plywood V shaped tub (home made) under the sterndrive, with anti freeze in it. Fire it up for half a beer, then fog out. Then re-use the anti freeze next year. Way easier.
Aren’t you mixing antifreeze with the water already in the motor and just continuing to dilute it each year? This is a great idea and I think I might try this method, but I wouldn’t reuse the antifreeze every year.
Hey Man I think it's a pretty good vid but the only thing I think I would add is to close off the system and fill with antifreeze to protect against corrosion. After watching a few vids, I think dump a gallon to the sea pump and trans cooler while fogging it after the majority of the gallon is in. Once it stalls then follow the vid and the close off and fill the block and manifolds with antifreeze. That's my 2cent comment.
I agree to a point. This is the way i learned in trade school doing my apprenticeship so this is what i follow. Been doing this method for 40+ years and no issues at my marina i work at.
I just found this video and hope I'm ok with our efforts as it was 20 last night... I have an old 350 mercruiser engine, think 1985 vintage. We drained and replaced the 4 drain plugs out of the engine, carefully cleaning any gunk from the drains until they had fully drained clear. After that we pulled off the hoses at the top where the spring loaded balls are and poured 4 gallons of 50/50 pink AF till it came out the top. WE then cranked the motor over a couple minutes without starting it to make sure any water left was full mixed with the antifreeze. Are there any other hoses left that should be removed or drained? MY mercruiser outdrive is the original from 1984 or 85. It does not say alpha on it. Im thinking I may have inadvertently missed a lower hose or something. Hopefully the water pump and transmission cooler filled with some of the antifreeze. Thanks Dave
I take the thermostat housing off and pour the coolant down that way. It adds having to remake the gasket on the therm housing, but I keep some black RTV in my winterization kit. I suppose pouring it into the water pump works, but if I do it up higher k know it’s getting into the heads and intake manifold also.
Hey! Well by pulling off the hose and relocating it to the top T stat housing it goes through the t stat and into the block, that is verified by seeing it come out the block plugs.
Hi. dont know if your still monitoring the video questions.... first off well done ! Thanks for showing an easy way. I have a question.... I hope I explain it right.....the biggest hose you took off....you took it off the bottom of the water pump as well and flipped it around......does any pink have to go into the place/port where the big hose came off of the bottom ?? Thanks.
Do I have to use antifreeze? I usually just pull the plugs and hoses and that’s literally all I do. Also. I know there are 4 plug, but also 4 other screw caps that are gold. Do those come off too? ‘83 350. Ty!
I have 7.4 liter alpha 1 - is the process the same? It looks just like yours but 7.4. I would assume its the same but was curious if you have any opinion on that.
Do you recommend doing it this way or by adding the pick juice threw the muffs ? Going to be doing my 00’ sea ray 210 signature right away here.. live in Canada so boat might see -35°c over the winter here..
100% this way. The muff way is “the easy way” and this makes sure everything is empty. The antifreeze is really a visual indication that the block is drained and manifolds. This way the whole engine is left empty and has no chance of freezing. I’m in Canada as well.
@kawasaki66100 the antifreeze does a good job. I believe by draining it and letting it dry does wonders for the cooling system and keeps it clean. When they aren’t drained for years they build up really bad and can be problematic.
Doesnt that large hose go to the power steering hose which goes to the outdrive water pump? Does it also connect to the engine block? Should you also pour AF into the water circulating pump? Sorry for the noob questions. I havent done this before. Thanks
The hose does, however you disconnect the ps cooler and drain it. No need to put any in circulating pump. When you pour the antifreeze through it goes through the pump also.
I am certified by mercriser and that procedure is ok and does the job but is only a half way winterizing job. I'll be doing a correct full winterizing video shortly that was taught at mercruiser certification school. This will include the fuel system also and finishing anti corrosion process for engine and outdrive.
I just heard "this is a full winterize" its all good. Purpose is to inform those wish to DIY. If you don't do the rest of the full winterize you are possibly opening up other issues with gas related issues that would require carb rebuild and also rust in cylinders.
Couldn’t you just run the engine till the thermostat opens and then gravity feed 5 gallons of antifreeze through the ear muffs and then drain the plugs and call it good ?
@treyt6765 hey… it wouldn’t because your water pump and other low laying hoses and power steering cooler etc. would all be full of water. Plus you still have to go through the trouble of removing the plugs, so why not leave it drained and have no worries? Just my 2 cents. Some guys wait for thermostat to open and pump antifreeze via the impeller and boat running through the system with muffs… i prefer this because i know it is all drained… Josh
No i don’t. The antifreeze is more of just a visual aid to make sure that your block is drained. You can put the plugs in and fill it. However i have heard so many horror stories from that antifreeze actually freezing. Just what i was taught back in trade school. Everybody has there own way of doing it however.0
You can do either or. Everything is drained so you can put them back on. I leave them off but that is because i am usually in a rush to get to putting the next boat away. Thanks for the sub.
I got a bayliner 2455 been seating about 15 years he just had a brand new 350 motor put in what do I do after pulling all hoses off do I put all hoses back on how do I fill it back up with water it doesn't have a filling jug on it
Is it correct that you can coat the cylinders by spraying fogging oil into the carb? That way you don't have to remove the spark plugs and spray in that way?
@@ajfountain Here's what you do, and you will avoid having to mess with drain plugs and hoses. Start by removing your flame arrestor and run your engine on the fresh water hose for about 10-15 minutes @ 1000 rpm to warm it up properly. While doing this, add stabilizer to your fuel tank and oil. Shut it down and remove the fresh water hose. Connect a big bucket with antifreeze to your fresh water flush, or via the ear muffs if you have an Alpha. Make a bucket with a big ball valve in the side bottom, that way it's super easy to have a piece of hose attached with a connector to the muffs or fresh water flush, and you can just open that when you are ready to start. Now run that antifreeze through your engine. When your bucket has about ½ antifreeze left, spray Marvel Mystery oil into the carb or throttle body. While doing this, elevate the rpm to about 1000-1200 rpm so that it does not die right away. When you see lots of smoke coming from the exhaust from spraying oil into the engine, drop the rpm back to idle before you run out of antifreeze. This should kill the engine as it tries to burn the oil. It can be a good idea to have someone at the helm who can shut if off if the oil does not stop the engine. Just make sure that the you are spraying oil into the engine while it is shut down and that it does not get to run out of antifreeze in the bucket. That's it. Your engine is now free of salt, full of antifreeze and stabilizer, and fogged. It's a lot easier than it might initially sound. Fogging on its own is so easy that I do it after every outing. I run it on the hose as always, and just finish by pouring in 5 ounces of Marvel into the carb. Then it shuts off after about 15-20 seconds. I've seen too many pitted cylinder liners to not do this.
Running the antifreeze via the strainer after heating up the engine is the proper way to do it. There's no reason to do it like this. Biggest problem with doing it like this is that you leave a lot of water in the system, and there's still a potential for cracks due to frost. I drain my headers and tailpipes during the season after each outing, but that's after flushing it in the driveway. During winter I run antifreeze though everything as you describe.
So I need a video to reverse the procedure? I bought a boat that has been professionally winterized and I want to get it ready to run. Have any links or suggestions?
I work at a marine shop. You can just hook up muffs fire the boat up and the water cleans it, or just pop the drain plugs drain the fluid than fire up in the water, either or.
Once running in the water that coolant should just flush out through the lower unit, or do that using the garden hose on the lower unit with ear muffs.
Yes it should be. I prefer to just in case. I have 2 engines i do running antifreeze through and connected but i run about 20-25L through before i am comfortable with leaving them. I do this as a last resort. The engines would have to be removed to be properly winterized.
Hey man, I've got a 305 from 1990. I can only find 4 drains. The two on the manifolds and the two on the block. There doesn't seem to be one on the front starboard of the motor. Does the 305 not have that one? Btw, this vid was super helpful. Thanks!
Instead of finding the drains i cut a piece of garden hose, but the mudffs on threaded end and a narrow funnel into the cut of end. After i run then boat for 5 min i shut ot off and i take the muffs off and put the other muffs on with the garden hose and funnel. I have a a 6 pack of the marine/rv coolant ready, my son starts pouring the coolant in the funnel and i start the boat. The boat stsrts sucking in the coolant and pushing out any water, when he gets to the last one i spray the carb with the fogger and it usally stalls out just as the last bit of coolants is going in, if not i just shut it down. Been doing it for 5 years with buffalo NY weather, never had an issue. Did it with my 5.0 and 5.7 I/O mercruisers
If you have a B1, make sure that you either have water or antifreeze in the raw water pump. Don't leave it dry as it will be hard on the impeller during the first startup. Just warm up the engine on the hoseto get all the sea water out and then run antifreeze through it via the fresh water flush system.
I'm a little baffled as the way I was taught was to drain all the water then close it and fill through the hoses with rv antifreeze until it spills out the lower unit then leave the antifreeze in it for the winter. I've had no issues yet and assumed it was left in to prevent corrosion. Am I missing something??
This is alright but the way i was taught in trade school was to take it out because a lot of the teachers said they have tested antifreeze and seen it freeze around -30 and do not trust it. I have seen it go slushy but no worse than that. Your method is fine but everyone had there own. This is just how i was taught.
G M yeah he replied above. I've been winterizing my boat this way with no issues so I'll keep doing it this way. Where I live doesn't get to -30 or any colder so it should be fine. I think -10 is the most I've seen here and those are brief cold snap days. I guess it would make sense to have no fluid in it at all to be sure nothing can freeze and cause damage but my understanding is the internal metals can corrode and rust with trapped moisture inside whereas full/submerged prevents air from allowing rusting process to take place internally. Who knows for sure but if it's been working I just keep doing it that way. Good luck
@@AB-80X I use rv antifreeze because it’s not harmful to the environment and animals the way car antifreeze is. I believe it’s rated to -50° and for the 5 years I’ve had an inboard engine driven boat I’ve not encountered any freezing or problems. Plus in the spring when I go to start it up it’s good that it’s already filled with coolant before the outdrive impeller pulls water in. I miss my outboard because I didn’t have to winterize it just lower it and it drained out but the reliability I’ve had with the inboard is better because my old outboard was a 2 stroke.
Yup the real way. Removed the block and manifold drain plugs to remove water and then hook antifreeze to the ear muffs and start the engine and let it pump it throughout
Nice...For a bad winterizing in my boat, now I have to replace my 5.0/V8, 305 Mercruiser...Anyone knows where I can find it ? Been looking for it .....Thanks for the video
Hi I'm Mariano what propeller can I mount for that type of engine. Thank you. Year 1995 24' vessel Mercruiser 350 / 5.7L V8 Sterndrive. Please help me . Thank's
@@Schneids15 Just wondering. You sound Canadian, we're in Buffalo NY, and we're all seemingly about the same age. It sounds like you also work at a Marina and I just thought you may have trained with him or something
UFC Buffalo ah right on. Yup Canadian is right. We do all sounds fairly the same. You guys get a bit longer of a season. I am about 6 hours away from you.
I run the engine on the hose til its warm. Then I put a plywood V shaped tub (home made) under the sterndrive, with anti freeze in it. Fire it up for half a beer, then fog out. Then re-use the anti freeze next year. Way easier.
I’ve done the same thing for 40 years. Never had a problem. Plus with all the leftover antifreeze I do friend’s boats too replace the beer I used. 🍻
Aren’t you mixing antifreeze with the water already in the motor and just continuing to dilute it each year? This is a great idea and I think I might try this method, but I wouldn’t reuse the antifreeze every year.
@@ericr5561
Of course anyone with common sense would test the antifreeze and add more when needed.
?
I just followed your steps and was very happy with the results for now. Hopefully come Spring, I'll feel the same way😅 Thanks!
How'd that work out
@@JayK-nd2oo All good.
Thanks for showing me how to do my first winterization on my 260 Mercruiser.
Super simple. Thanks for explaining the process. Followed this to the letter, went flawlessly.
Great. It is a great and simple method. Josh
Good video. Bought my first boat this summer had no idea what to do (car guy) explained very well
Hey Man I think it's a pretty good vid but the only thing I think I would add is to close off the system and fill with antifreeze to protect against corrosion.
After watching a few vids, I think dump a gallon to the sea pump and trans cooler while fogging it after the majority of the gallon is in. Once it stalls then follow the vid and the close off and fill the block and manifolds with antifreeze. That's my 2cent comment.
I agree to a point. This is the way i learned in trade school doing my apprenticeship so this is what i follow. Been doing this method for 40+ years and no issues at my marina i work at.
So put all hoses back on so it's ready to run after you winterize it ? So do we will it back up with antifreeze or leave it empty ?
I just found this video and hope I'm ok with our efforts as it was 20 last night... I have an old 350 mercruiser engine, think 1985 vintage. We drained and replaced the 4 drain plugs out of the engine, carefully cleaning any gunk from the drains until they had fully drained clear. After that we pulled off the hoses at the top where the spring loaded balls are and poured 4 gallons of 50/50 pink AF till it came out the top. WE then cranked the motor over a couple minutes without starting it to make sure any water left was full mixed with the antifreeze. Are there any other hoses left that should be removed or drained? MY mercruiser outdrive is the original from 1984 or 85. It does not say alpha on it. Im thinking I may have inadvertently missed a lower hose or something. Hopefully the water pump and transmission cooler filled with some of the antifreeze. Thanks Dave
I take the thermostat housing off and pour the coolant down that way. It adds having to remake the gasket on the therm housing, but I keep some black RTV in my winterization kit. I suppose pouring it into the water pump works, but if I do it up higher k know it’s getting into the heads and intake manifold also.
Hey! Well by pulling off the hose and relocating it to the top T stat housing it goes through the t stat and into the block, that is verified by seeing it come out the block plugs.
Excellent video..you picked a great boat to demonstrate on and it is spot on with your explanation.. I use starbright -100. Thanks.
Thanks Stephen. Some boats are so tight. This worked out perfect.
Hi. dont know if your still monitoring the video questions.... first off well done ! Thanks for showing an easy way. I have a question....
I hope I explain it right.....the biggest hose you took off....you took it off the bottom of the water pump as well and flipped it around......does any pink have to go into the place/port where the big hose came off of the bottom ??
Thanks.
Thanks Schneids15 I have exactly the same engine in my Glastron CV23 1985. you made it extremmely simple !!
Do I have to use antifreeze? I usually just pull the plugs and hoses and that’s literally all I do. Also. I know there are 4 plug, but also 4 other screw caps that are gold. Do those come off too? ‘83 350. Ty!
How about the outdrive? Does this winterize it? Thank you for uploading.
Yes you should
Good stuff thx.
Is the coolant you use pre mix with water or straight coolant only?
Non tox rv plumbing antifreeze yes
Thx! I am not sure if mine has power steering or not, didnt see anything that looked like that and mine is older 5.7L mercruiser.
I have 7.4 liter alpha 1 - is the process the same? It looks just like yours but 7.4. I would assume its the same but was curious if you have any opinion on that.
Very well done. So that is what I pay $500 per year for? Not any more. Doing it on my own this time.
I am sure for 500$ you get an oil change and filter, fuel stabilizer and fogging. But yes
exactly
Do you recommend doing it this way or by adding the pick juice threw the muffs ? Going to be doing my 00’ sea ray 210 signature right away here.. live in Canada so boat might see -35°c over the winter here..
100% this way. The muff way is “the easy way” and this makes sure everything is empty. The antifreeze is really a visual indication that the block is drained and manifolds. This way the whole engine is left empty and has no chance of freezing. I’m in Canada as well.
@@Schneids15 okay thank you, should I be putting anything other then that pick stuff in to battle corrosion or will be fine?
@kawasaki66100 the antifreeze does a good job. I believe by draining it and letting it dry does wonders for the cooling system and keeps it clean. When they aren’t drained for years they build up really bad and can be problematic.
Doesnt that large hose go to the power steering hose which goes to the outdrive water pump? Does it also connect to the engine block? Should you also pour AF into the water circulating pump? Sorry for the noob questions. I havent done this before. Thanks
The hose does, however you disconnect the ps cooler and drain it.
No need to put any in circulating pump. When you pour the antifreeze through it goes through the pump also.
I am certified by mercriser and that procedure is ok and does the job but is only a half way winterizing job. I'll be doing a correct full winterizing video shortly that was taught at mercruiser certification school. This will include the fuel system also and finishing anti corrosion process for engine and outdrive.
Yes as i state there is more to winterizing. I did this simple video to keep it short and strictly cover the drain procedure.
I just heard "this is a full winterize" its all good. Purpose is to inform those wish to DIY. If you don't do the rest of the full winterize you are possibly opening up other issues with gas related issues that would require carb rebuild and also rust in cylinders.
Couldn’t you just run the engine till the thermostat opens and then gravity feed 5 gallons of antifreeze through the ear muffs and then drain the plugs and call it good ?
@treyt6765 hey… it wouldn’t because your water pump and other low laying hoses and power steering cooler etc. would all be full of water. Plus you still have to go through the trouble of removing the plugs, so why not leave it drained and have no worries? Just my 2 cents. Some guys wait for thermostat to open and pump antifreeze via the impeller and boat running through the system with muffs… i prefer this because i know it is all drained… Josh
Hello, so you run straight water in your motor? I am new to this.
Incredibly appreciated!
When you pour the antifreeze in and verify that it’s coming out the Block holes you don’t plug the block back up to keep antifreeze in?
No i don’t. The antifreeze is more of just a visual aid to make sure that your block is drained. You can put the plugs in and fill it. However i have heard so many horror stories from that antifreeze actually freezing. Just what i was taught back in trade school. Everybody has there own way of doing it however.0
Thanks for that. do you leave the plugs out and the hoses unattached over the winter?
You can do either or. Everything is drained so you can put them back on. I leave them off but that is because i am usually in a rush to get to putting the next boat away. Thanks for the sub.
dont leave them un hooked man bc dirt dobbers will screw you over or if you do at least stuff a rag in each opening
might as well hook em all back up and tightne to spec . it will be ready to go for next year.
I got a bayliner 2455 been seating about 15 years he just had a brand new 350 motor put in what do I do after pulling all hoses off do I put all hoses back on how do I fill it back up with water it doesn't have a filling jug on it
Do you need a tool for reinstalling the drain plugs or is it enough to screw by hand?
By hand is just fine.
@@Schneids15 Thank you.
Great video, what about fogging cylinders and stabilizing gas?
Thanks. Yes do those. This is just the drain procedure. Josh
Is it correct that you can coat the cylinders by spraying fogging oil into the carb? That way you don't have to remove the spark plugs and spray in that way?
@@ajfountain Here's what you do, and you will avoid having to mess with drain plugs and hoses.
Start by removing your flame arrestor and run your engine on the fresh water hose for about 10-15 minutes @ 1000 rpm to warm it up properly. While doing this, add stabilizer to your fuel tank and oil.
Shut it down and remove the fresh water hose.
Connect a big bucket with antifreeze to your fresh water flush, or via the ear muffs if you have an Alpha. Make a bucket with a big ball valve in the side bottom, that way it's super easy to have a piece of hose attached with a connector to the muffs or fresh water flush, and you can just open that when you are ready to start.
Now run that antifreeze through your engine. When your bucket has about ½ antifreeze left, spray Marvel Mystery oil into the carb or throttle body. While doing this, elevate the rpm to about 1000-1200 rpm so that it does not die right away. When you see lots of smoke coming from the exhaust from spraying oil into the engine, drop the rpm back to idle before you run out of antifreeze. This should kill the engine as it tries to burn the oil. It can be a good idea to have someone at the helm who can shut if off if the oil does not stop the engine. Just make sure that the you are spraying oil into the engine while it is shut down and that it does not get to run out of antifreeze in the bucket.
That's it. Your engine is now free of salt, full of antifreeze and stabilizer, and fogged. It's a lot easier than it might initially sound.
Fogging on its own is so easy that I do it after every outing. I run it on the hose as always, and just finish by pouring in 5 ounces of Marvel into the carb. Then it shuts off after about 15-20 seconds.
I've seen too many pitted cylinder liners to not do this.
hey dude you couldn't have made it any more simple! awesome demonstration bro thank you very much! keep it real @Schneids15
Thanks man!
Do you think there is water inside the water pump, that does not get drained with this method??
What is the difference to doing the way you described vs running the antifreeze through the strainer?
Running the antifreeze via the strainer after heating up the engine is the proper way to do it. There's no reason to do it like this. Biggest problem with doing it like this is that you leave a lot of water in the system, and there's still a potential for cracks due to frost. I drain my headers and tailpipes during the season after each outing, but that's after flushing it in the driveway. During winter I run antifreeze though everything as you describe.
Great video but does the engine need to be warm to open the thermostat??
Because you have pulled the plugs and are pouring this way no it does not have to be warm.
Okay great thanks so much for getting back to me .
Do you put all hoses and plugs back in once winterized ?
I can’t reach the starboard side block petcock, so can I successfully drain the entire. Lock by opening the port side petcock only?
So I need a video to reverse the procedure? I bought a boat that has been professionally winterized and I want to get it ready to run. Have any links or suggestions?
I work at a marine shop. You can just hook up muffs fire the boat up and the water cleans it, or just pop the drain plugs drain the fluid than fire up in the water, either or.
Once running in the water that coolant should just flush out through the lower unit, or do that using the garden hose on the lower unit with ear muffs.
The amount of times he says "uh" is over 9000! :)
If you run motor and antifreeze through then disconnects drain plugs. Antifreeze should be in power steering coolant. Do still have to take hose off?
Yes it should be. I prefer to just in case. I have 2 engines i do running antifreeze through and connected but i run about 20-25L through before i am comfortable with leaving them. I do this as a last resort. The engines would have to be removed to be properly winterized.
Much appreciated.
Should I reattached all hoses an or leave it off/open during winter?
You can reattach. I personally leave them undone. I don’t know if there is a reason. Just how i was taught.
that is a big big help, thank you so much
Nice video thanks for the lesson
How is antifreeze getting past the thermostat? It’s cold and closed
When you pull plugs and water pump hose it drains from bottom.
Do u put the plugs back in after the pink stuff comes out??
On my 5.7 the thermostat housing going to the risers does not have the steel rod with two balls on it. What does it do and is it needed? Thanks
Hey man, I've got a 305 from 1990. I can only find 4 drains. The two on the manifolds and the two on the block. There doesn't seem to be one on the front starboard of the motor. Does the 305 not have that one? Btw, this vid was super helpful. Thanks!
Instead of finding the drains i cut a piece of garden hose, but the mudffs on threaded end and a narrow funnel into the cut of end. After i run then boat for 5 min i shut ot off and i take the muffs off and put the other muffs on with the garden hose and funnel. I have a a 6 pack of the marine/rv coolant ready, my son starts pouring the coolant in the funnel and i start the boat. The boat stsrts sucking in the coolant and pushing out any water, when he gets to the last one i spray the carb with the fogger and it usally stalls out just as the last bit of coolants is going in, if not i just shut it down. Been doing it for 5 years with buffalo NY weather, never had an issue. Did it with my 5.0 and 5.7 I/O mercruisers
I have this same motor in an '86 Checkmate. It is not a five minute job. I'm moving the motor to the middle of the boat.
Yes this was an easy one to film with it in the middle. You get the odd nice one to do.
I would also drain the inhose that feeds to sea pump especially bravo 1 drive
On bravo for sure. On alpha you are good to go. Like you say if you have a bravo 100% it needs to be drained
If you have a B1, make sure that you either have water or antifreeze in the raw water pump. Don't leave it dry as it will be hard on the impeller during the first startup. Just warm up the engine on the hoseto get all the sea water out and then run antifreeze through it via the fresh water flush system.
Thanks friend
I'm a little baffled as the way I was taught was to drain all the water then close it and fill through the hoses with rv antifreeze until it spills out the lower unit then leave the antifreeze in it for the winter. I've had no issues yet and assumed it was left in to prevent corrosion. Am I missing something??
This is alright but the way i was taught in trade school was to take it out because a lot of the teachers said they have tested antifreeze and seen it freeze around -30 and do not trust it. I have seen it go slushy but no worse than that. Your method is fine but everyone had there own. This is just how i was taught.
L H yeah same here Did you ever get a reply
G M yeah he replied above. I've been winterizing my boat this way with no issues so I'll keep doing it this way. Where I live doesn't get to -30 or any colder so it should be fine. I think -10 is the most I've seen here and those are brief cold snap days. I guess it would make sense to have no fluid in it at all to be sure nothing can freeze and cause damage but my understanding is the internal metals can corrode and rust with trapped moisture inside whereas full/submerged prevents air from allowing rusting process to take place internally. Who knows for sure but if it's been working I just keep doing it that way. Good luck
Just make sure you use an antifreeze that is approved for your climate. Plenty of that out there. What else do you think cars in your area are using?
@@AB-80X I use rv antifreeze because it’s not harmful to the environment and animals the way car antifreeze is. I believe it’s rated to -50° and for the 5 years I’ve had an inboard engine driven boat I’ve not encountered any freezing or problems. Plus in the spring when I go to start it up it’s good that it’s already filled with coolant before the outdrive impeller pulls water in. I miss my outboard because I didn’t have to winterize it just lower it and it drained out but the reliability I’ve had with the inboard is better because my old outboard was a 2 stroke.
Do u leave the pink coolant in the system like an rv camper
Have you done a video on the same topic but with a one half closed cooling system?
I haven’t but could for sure. They are very basic.
Appreciate the video bro
Nice work
how many different oil filter wrenches are there?
So i run antifreeze through system and still drain it out? Or do I plug it back up when I see pink and leave antifreeze in block?
Some do, some don't. I leave it in due to the antifreeze's anti-corrosion properties.
@@AB-80X thank you, I left it in too. Hopefully she wakes up in the spring as expected…..
I have an 89 merc 5.0 I/O and it looks like my hoses have never been removed, possibly done another way?
Yup the real way. Removed the block and manifold drain plugs to remove water and then hook antifreeze to the ear muffs and start the engine and let it pump it throughout
Depends on climate and storage facilities.. heated or not!
Legend! Thanks bro!
My first boat first winterize
cool vid thanks
Nice...For a bad winterizing in my boat, now I have to replace my 5.0/V8, 305 Mercruiser...Anyone knows where I can find it ? Been looking for it .....Thanks for the video
There is lots of used motors around. The question is how good is the used one you buy. Is the motor leaking externally or internally?
@@Schneids15 . Thanks. You know any place ? I'm in Lanham MD.
Try Michigan marine
@@edil.lopezm9443 Just get a new 350 short block and bolt everything up to that.
Hi I'm Mariano what propeller can I mount for that type of engine. Thank you.
Year 1995 24' vessel
Mercruiser 350 / 5.7L V8
Sterndrive. Please help me . Thank's
It all depends on your gear Mariano, how heavy it is. If i were to guess you would be running somewhere around a 15- 17 pitch propeller.
@@Schneids15 thank you so much.
@@marianocultraro1845 Prop for your rpm. Is your engine a 300 hp? There's a few versions of the 350.
How to do a Kodaik jet 5.7 system ?
What about fogging
Yes this is just the drain Procedure.
Not the same if you have the single point drain system!
Yes but for these models it is the same.
Lol do you know Torrey Pollard?
No, why do you ask?
@@Schneids15 Just wondering. You sound Canadian, we're in Buffalo NY, and we're all seemingly about the same age. It sounds like you also work at a Marina and I just thought you may have trained with him or something
UFC Buffalo ah right on. Yup Canadian is right. We do all sounds fairly the same. You guys get a bit longer of a season. I am about 6 hours away from you.
Did you say “wrastle” ?
Lol
I maybe could have. Lol
0:35
What about the water left in the seawater pump?
This is a Alpha outfitted engine and has no pump up front like the bravo’s and does not require draining.
@@Schneids15 10-4 i kind of figured that i hope the bravo guys did too lol I learned the 500 dollar hard way..
Oh no! Thanks for the comment. I’ll have to throw Alpha in the title.