Guess I have to be that guy: class D is not digital, it is analog. It uses high frequency switching for the amplification, but never converts the signal to a digital state. Nice build!
And also it is actually better to have the power of the amp be greater than the speaker to prevent it from distortion and therefore damaging the speaker. If you turn the speaker up way too loud it will get damaged no matter what.
I think it's "digital" in terms of the output state and pulse period, but not the pulse width. Obviously after the smoothing inductor it's just an ordinary sound wave.
@@buelow123 It depends. In multi way speakers, power distribution ratio gets shifted towards the midrange and treble as you increase the amount of clipping, so the midrange and treble will be better off with a more powerful amplifier within its clean limits, but the woofer will be worked harder. I mean it's also very variable with the type of music being played too. Using a more powerful amp will get you the most high quality performance out of the speakers you paid for, assuming you like it loud, but won't necessarily protect the speaker, even though it will sound better right up to its limits. This is a double edged sword as some people might push the speaker too hard as it is still sounding good. Though drivers do introduce their own version of clipping at mechanical limits, thermal limits can sneak up on you, even though those can change the sound signature too. It also depends on how speakers are power rated. A 200 watt speaker might cook with a 200 watt amplifier playing a sine wave. Many speakers are rated with music in mind, and it's nice to know that the kick drum going PHUT! at 200 watts for a tenth of a second won't damage it, while the rest of the music is at 10 watts. You have to be careful with more and more music having continuous bass and average levels creeping up so the speaker is staying at powers approaching the 200 watts more often and risking a voice coil overheat. Frequencies are another thing that I touched briefly up above. The power handling of a speaker is different depending on the frequency of the sound. Usually more in the bass and midrange and less in the tweeter. The tweeter can generally produce louder sound on the same power though, both due to its own sensitivity and your ears' sensitivity, which helps. Also at very low frequencies, the woofer can flap around and dent the voice coil former if it bangs into the back of the magnet. Best to filter those out especially in ported enclosures. It will also sound better if your bookshelf speaker isn't trying to reproduce 25Hz.
Class D is digital... PWM its not analog... Extremely high "sampling" of the analog input to give an indistinguishable signal from analog... P.S class D is technically the "cleanest", "purest" un coloured sound you'd get on a technical level with perfect filtering. 😅
@@ralph90009 He actually mounted the lasers on top of the front speaker , pointing up and then used mirrors mounted on the ceiling so there is no risk of a person going in between the speaker and laser emitter. It's very clever, give the video a try. DIY Perks.
Nice work. I've always been told to over spec the amp as you are more likely to blow speakers from clipping the amp than you are from overdriving the speakers.
Car audio guy since 95 ... always been told to have more power than you need...so you're not stressing your amp to its higher end/max...and was told by one VERY reputable family audio shop that they never had anyone blow subs from too much power, but have had a lot blow from under-powering them...this COULD have been a ploy to sell bigger amps. (This shop is still in business)
Lol- this is something so many youtubers fail to appreciate- the speakers will only ever sound as good as the ones the viewer is using to watch the video with.
If you live in a flat I can recommend going for a dual opposing driver setup. Less vibrations transferred to the building. So less noise for your neighbors
@@peaceofvideo since the two drivers are opposing each other they don‘t cancel out. But the vibrations caused by the drivers do since they’re vibrating „against“ each other. The sonos sub is a good example for isobaric loading.
Awesome build! 👍 Just one note: many people mistakenly think that class D amps are "digital". They're not. The audio signal that goes in is analog, the amplified signal is analog. There's nothing digital in that.
just a hint: wireless speakers have a slight delay and if someone puts on a microwave you have really bad sound. if its not nessesary, dont go wireless on speakers (especially satelites that need external power after going wireless are a bad idea)
You can avoid the interference from microwaves by opting to use a 5GHz system instead of a 2.4GHz system. Additionally, the delay introduced by digital wireless audio is less often than 1ms and imperceptible to even trained ears. This is such a negligible amount that slightly moving the speaker forwards by a dozen centimeters can compensate for any phase shift caused by delays of this kind, and even then most modern AVRs have built in DSP that allows you to customize delays per channel. The listener is never going to be in the "perfect" position either and our ears are not a singular point anyway, so getting this nit-picky over delays doesn't even really accomplish anything. As long as it sounds good, it is fine, and these aren't really factors that are going to cause any issues to people switching over to wireless. There is no major benefit other than cost to using wired vs wireless because of these reasons, both are just as good as each other.
No no no, he's revolutionizing the way people build subwoofers! By utilizing off the shelf products made for this exact purpose, he's changing the way the industry works. Bravo! This video should be labeled: Complete guide on how to glue up some MDF cut by your CNC followed by trivial soldering.
@@holden-p3r why are you so angry? bro made a cool thing for himself, and made a simple 20 minute how to, to document the process, and show it to people. What cool thing did you do? Watch the video, and instead of clicking off when you didnt like it, be a bit of an ass in the comments? Right... do better.
I would definetly add a simple toggle switch for feeding the amplifier wirelessly or by the terminals at the back. Back feeding a receiver can be an issue.
One thing I would highly recommend is T-nut fasteners and machine screws. These will add the ability to service the subwoofer indefinitely without concern for damaging the cabinet. Regular wood screws will stress the wood fiber and strip the threading material out of the hole after a few times in and out especially with the vibration and pressure a subwoofer can impart on the wood/fiber material over time.
Wow, beautiful build! One concern, though: the audio connector on the back of the subwoofer has now become an audio output instead of an input. If you connect it to the audio output of an amplifier via a cable, you could potentially damage the amplifier's output or the subwoofer's built-in audio receiver. To prevent this, you might consider adding a simple two-way switch. This would let you easily choose between the wireless or wired audio channel.
As for power matching, Its always better for the amplifier to have more RMS power, than the speaker. This allows for more dynamic head room. When RMS is matched. You run out of head room and dynamics suffer when pushed to RMS. ..... RMS matching can create more stress on the amplifier, than the driver when being pushed! As a rule of thumb. I run twice the RMS power to my drivers. 1000 watt plate amplifier or a little more would give your design enough head room for dynamics and less stress on the amplifier to speaker relation. The drivers RMS can be passed just fine In on quick dynamic demand peaks. Even more if tuned. Without the danger of clipping the amplifier.
The design of the Sub looks great and the wireless feature is a nice addition. But threes things: first the damping you used in the sub is made for car audio and therefore meant to be sticked on metal. For wood i would recommend heavy foam as it’s the best for Bass frequency’s. Second there’s a ~1cm gap as far as I can see where the port end couples to the front plate. Installing a small wood ledge would help reduce port noise (chuffing) drastically. And third I see the reason you choose this amp but the 500w would be a better option since these Dayton drivers can take a lot of power without breaking or distorting from my personal experience. Other than that it’s a great build and video!
Please please PLEASE WEAR BREATHING PROTECTION WHEN YOU'RE MACHINING MDF. That stuff is hilariously toxic and breathing in it's dust is AWFUL for you, PLEASE put on a mask of literally any description when you're cutting/sanding it.
I love how the actual important information regarding subwoofer design is completely missing from this video, and has been replaced with somewhat related information grossly misinterpreted. There is so much misinformation in this video it's painful, and seeing the comments following a similar trend of regurgitating mindless fluff as if it's fact just makes it worse.
Very cool, the one thing I know would go wrong in my house is that sub would be a very tempting surface for accumulation. Maybe adding a glass shelf with rubber feet might help?
Sealed does not equal more compact. Depending on the resonant frequency you’re targeting a larger enclosure can be preferable. But, it’s mostly going to depend on the driver you’re using if you’re targeting efficiency. However, if you have a powerful driver, you can build a larger enclosure to get lower extension at a cost of efficiency. Enclosure design is definitely an art. Great job on the video! 😊
Boomier doesn't equal natural sound, just an exaggerated sound. A few things I would do differently: 1. Round off those sharp edges on the MDF. It'll help them take a bump without damage to the edge. 2. Glue up. Paint your mating surfaces with 50/50 glue and paint and let dry. When you do finally do the full dose of glue, it'll grab better. Also, sprinkle a little sand on the glue joint, not much, just about 3-4 grains per inch. This will keep the two parts from sliding around from the slippery glue. He's got the sub in a good place, so it's on the same plane as the front speakers. The worst thing you can do it place your sub in the corner: you'll get a LOT of bass, but it's going to sound one note-ish and sloppy. Rule of thumb: 1/3 the way along the wall. A way to find the best spot for the sub for your favorite listening spot is to put the sub in that listening spot. Then play music with a good solid bass beat and walk the perimeter of the room. The spot with the best sounding bass is going to be the sub's sweet spot and should be placed there. If. your room's furniture placement is not letting place it there, see how it sounds in places where it can go and choose the second best. A sub in the best place audibly but in a bad place functionally will be a continuous problem.
The bass port should be rounded, i have one DIY car subwoofer as a home theater sub with 15" driver but the guy who made it and bought it from made a bass port sharp. At lower volume you can't hear it but i making a parties with my friends more often than you think and i couldn't whithstand the " flutter " sound comming from that bass port. Next year i'll be making a whole new enclosure tuned around 18Hz so it'll be pretty damn big thing in my living room. The second subwoofer will be some trashy Technics whatever it is for higher frequencies starting around 35Hz so they should overlap themself pretty nicely.
Pretty sure what you're referring to is called "chuffing", and I'd recommend DYI Perks' latest video when it comes to your harmonic overlap scenario, though it's geared more towards a complete speaker build than just being a subwoofer enclosure.
@ i've seen that video don't worry :D they must to overlap because i don't have any other crossover for them laying around and those are home built with agressive slope specially made for that purpouse. Big boy's crossover can pass through anything from 0Hz basically to around 25-28Hz which after that has 12dB/octave reduction and the smaller 10" sub has crossover that starts at 33Hz and ends up at 47Hz with 6dB/octave slope. Mids and highs are set via AV receiver to not be able to play under 60Hz because they are kinda weak though i burnt my center speaker few months ago because i set the equalizer wrong and i let the whole pallete of sound spectrum to enter the center channel while i was making a party and it died just after a few second after the Drum n Bass bass drop. And also i have bass boosted frequencies for those two subs but right now the big boy can't play efficiently below 30Hz you can barely hear it pass that frequency.. it is kinda mixed up all together but it sounds really good and it'll be even more after i make that 18Hz tuned box. I really want to push my window in to the street i really hope it will happen but if not i'm building another one fr
Really cool you were able to get that done at 14:40, being able to customize with both wood and electronics makes for some really cool project like this one, glad YT put this on my feed today.
Great video! Quick note/question: does the vocal audio sound a little muffled to anyone else? It sound like there's a barrier between his voice and the mic to me
You did not need the kill mat at all and half the bracing does nothing but take up space and make you feel better, but it looks good and more people should build things sweet box
You really f'd up that port, having the oval opening makes it smaller than the rest of the port length and will create turbulence. The port volume will be forced though a narrower opening and will make more unwanted port noise known as port chuffing. Also painting some of those areas before putting the WOOD glue down means the glue cant soak into the wood fibers properly which is very bad for the structural integrity of those joints.
I'd like to add something to the fact that you said you want to match the amplifier power as closely to the subwoofer as possible. Only that's partly true, the rating on amps are usually the max power they can deliver but at times that is with 1% to even 10% distortion which doesn't always sound good. So It's recommended that you use a more overpowered amp and set the levels at the power rating of your speaker so in that way you don't blow up your speaker but also don't have any unwanted distortion from the amp.
You can run both subwoofers. Sometimes it can help with dead spots which you probably will have, depending on placement of the sub. Place one on one wall and the other on an adjacent wall, run them 180 degrees out of phase. I have 2 Klipsch 12in ported subwoofers that go down to 24hz. Music at low volume sounds fuller because of the attenuated base and action movies can/will shake the house.
what id like to see is a compact subwoofer build. My truck in particular doesnt even have space for underseat subs. 05' Ranger standard cab, currently I have Rockvilles 12 inch sub behind the bench seat. box 4 inches on top and its base is six inches wide. dont remember how long it is off the top of my head. does sound surprisingly really good though. just enough room but no movement with the seat. would love an alternative I could build myself.
Your info on enough watts is incorrect, watts in speaker spec is only a thermal limit of that Rs315HF you've used, it could take a 1000wrms amp all day long because sound is dynamic the only time it will become a problem is if you feed it constantly from a tone generator(ie SPL car audio nuts)at high SPL's for several minutes. Also that sound deadening applied inside was a waste of it, you've already braced that cab well enough to not need it! All in all though its a nice build that'll last you many years, well done.
I bought a polk audio 12 inch sub with built in power. Its 450 watts. Sounds amazing and hits so hard with barely turned up. Paid less then 300 bucks for it at the time. I love building stuff myself but alot of them times i will buy pre-built then mod it my self. It ends up being cheaper.
Nice choice. I used the Dayton UM18-22 and a behringer NX6000D amp for mine. Outperforms my Paradigm Servo 15 by a big margin and I have a second amp channel to add another UM18-22 in the future (which I will do). And cost wise it was $2.2k AUD to buy everything and build it
I have a really old book from the 80's titled 'Subwoofer Design'. It was only about 400 pages. It was 400 pages of math and design considerations.... :P
@@R4MP4G3RXD The switching is value-discrete but time-continuous, so it is not digital. The timing when the switching happens is analogue from a comparator, so for half the transitions, the switching doesn't happen at any of the discrete timesteps but when the sawtooth or similar timing signal happens to cross over the reference signal in analogue domain.
@@SianaGearz Yes but class D amplifiers have a carrier frequency which ultimately determines how detailed the spwm signal is; wouldn't that technically make it a discrete sampler? Also by that train of thought are asynchronous logic gates analog?
If anything adding another sub will help balance the room your not supposed to be able to hear where bass comes from but having more than one sub in room helps, if you want to go all out check out what rel do with their six packs that’s a whole new level again
It may be a new concept to make the sub wireless, but it's not really anything new. I remember back in the early to mid 2000s, my family had a pretty decent home theater system and it had wireless rear speakers so we could put them all the way on the other side of the room and not run any cables along the floor to the DVD player (which had the amp integrated). They were technically passive, but still needed to be plugged into the wall for the receiver to work.
I built my bass amp with two 12s in a double cube cabinet. One side is ported, one side is not. While it does give me the best of both worlds, the drivers may or may not be in phase at any given frequency. With some sawtooth distortion and clipping from the amplifier stage, it's really hard to tell, though. Edit: While a personal fan of the black boring box, I built my box out of a large shelving unit that had maple veneer, and I made the grillecloth from a pair of Adidas track pants, with the stripes running across the face of the box. It's called the "Blyamp". Edit 2: Class D is not digital. It's just PWM.
You mixed some stuff up with the power ratings. The amplifier should be **more powerful** than the rating of your sub prescribes. Ideally with some headroom. So if you've got a 400 watt sub, you should target for an amp that could handle up to 500 watt (at the given ohm rating of your sub).
Nope, because the subwoofer is a passive component, that is rated for peak Watt and RMS Watt, 300W RMS is the power that the subwoofer can handle not Its optimal working point You sould use an aplifier lower or equal than 300W RMS at the same ohm to avoid burning the copper windings when you put at max wolume the amplifier. A 150W RMS Amplifier can easly handle a 300W RMS subwoofer.
Been doing car audio for many years and this isn't how I practice my builds. The amp only sees the impedance so as long as that is within spec you want the driver to be able to handle the amp at max power output with some headroom. You're the one mixing up these things.
@@w1thso That's why you set gains on the amp and leave them be, if you've done it right then the sub won't be overdriven and won't be melting it's coils either way. A bigger amp running at lower power is going to sound better and be safer to the speakers than a tiny amp running full wide open, ready to clip out at a moments notice.
really cool video as usual no way I have the skills, talent, or time for this so I'm likely to just buy an off the shelf solution but I love this kind of stuff
You actually want a more powerful amplifier than the speaker. This is so you have headroom and are not driving the amplifier into clipping. This can cause the sub to still blow even at lower wattage. A perfect match for this sub would be a proper gain matched SPA-500.
Note that the wave link system's manual states a minimum audio response frequency of 20 Hz. Low enough for most. But some high-end receivers can go lower than that thus losing some quality.
Bluetooth can add a bit of latency but overall if you want less cables that's the wat to go and btw i also suggest to hot glue the wires to the speaker walls because at low frequencies the wires can start vibrating and would start making a annoying rattling sound in the speaker
I have 4 x 18" sealed subs and never had an issue with my neighbors saying anything even though that room is right next to their house. And that was the same with my old 12" SVS trash-can style subs. I don't think sub waves pass through your wall into the outdoors and through your neighbor's house that easily.
Zach I’m only sad about 1 thing. When you test a home theater subwoofer it’s an unwritten rule that you play bass I love you by bassatronics. Amazing video hope I see the short soon of it playing bass I love you :)
I can't even imagine the astronomical view counts you would get if you teamed up to build something with Drew Anger from Drew Builds Stuff. It needs to happen!
Hi Zac! A long time viewer here! You assumption about driver "watt" number should match the amplifier's "watt" number is blatantly wrong simply because of physics. The amp's rating of 300 watts has to be questioned, is it peak power at 10% THD? Or is it at it's maximum cleanest power before ramping up THD? USUALLY amplifier manufacturers will use power rating @1% THD, but some will omit the 1% THD and go for max power before blowing up. What kills your driver (or to be specific, it's voice coil) is the amp clipping - which will apply a constant high-ish voltage to your voice coil, getting it hot. When coils get hot, it's resistance increases up to a certain degree, after that, the coil will simply burn (the wire will burn off in a section of the coil). You can have a 1000 watt "rated" amp to drive a 300 watt "rated" subwoofer driver, what you get is HEADROOM where when your audio content requires a "punch" beyond "300 watts", your amp has it. FYI, let's say your 300 watts amp and your subwoofer produces 100dB SPL, to get the SPL to 103 SPL you need 600 watts, to get it to 106 dB SPL, you need 1200 watts. So the bigger the amp, the better you'll be simply because your speaker has smaller chance of burning out (hopefully you won't reach clipping level of your amp by having a HUGE amp). On the other hand, if you have a HUGE amp and your subwoofer driver's suspension system is not up to par, the one bad thing mechanically that can happen is that your cone/voice coil/former assembly will hit the bottom of the magnet, and at worst, it may "blow up", as in the suspension system can't hold on to the cone and the cone gets ripped off out of the suspension system - the visual will look like the woofer's cone got "blown away", ripping out the surround, spider, and wires...
You not right about matching amp and speaker wattage. Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 Power Handling (RMS) 400 watts, Power Handling (max) 800 watts. You can over power you ampifier, and actualy shuld. You should use at least 400 W amplifier for 400 W RMS subwoofer speaker. But better would be to use 2 times more. Two reasons. First: speaker can handle 2 times more power for short time. Second: power amplifier running at max power begins to distort signal (begins clipping and adds high frequency harmonics).
Serious tip: take a soldering course. Self learning is nice, but the industry has way more experience. (RUclips is great to learn, but for learning soldering it's not that great yet)
My question for you: do you think there is a viable way to get power from speaker wiring/RCA? You could replace your current wired speakers that way ans still have power.
I hope this is your 'first' build, as a sort of proof of concept. When you use less than 3/4 inch thick wood, let alone that pressboard, you are asking for the cabinet to fail, especially when listening at high volumes with a bass heavy material. Also, pressboard seems to wick water and is susceptible to high humidity. The heavier and thicker wood, assists with keeping the cabinet 'in place'!.
Did I miss your video on your height speakers? I've been playing with some lower end atmos setups and have been terribly dissapointed. Was this part of a kit or purpose built by you?
Love how in 2024 it’s math, a you tube video, computer schematics, massive selection of drivers, amps and Eq’s….and the endless design possibilities. Me in the 80’s. Measure friends car. Build enclosure with a port using my ear to test the port length as we go. Paint it all. Put carpet on it after sealing it,and then install in his truck. Voila. I make 200 bucks, he has a bump in truck, and everyone is happy. Remember, that was 200 in 1985!!
Guess I have to be that guy: class D is not digital, it is analog. It uses high frequency switching for the amplification, but never converts the signal to a digital state.
Nice build!
And also it is actually better to have the power of the amp be greater than the speaker to prevent it from distortion and therefore damaging the speaker. If you turn the speaker up way too loud it will get damaged no matter what.
I think it's "digital" in terms of the output state and pulse period, but not the pulse width. Obviously after the smoothing inductor it's just an ordinary sound wave.
@@buelow123 It depends. In multi way speakers, power distribution ratio gets shifted towards the midrange and treble as you increase the amount of clipping, so the midrange and treble will be better off with a more powerful amplifier within its clean limits, but the woofer will be worked harder. I mean it's also very variable with the type of music being played too.
Using a more powerful amp will get you the most high quality performance out of the speakers you paid for, assuming you like it loud, but won't necessarily protect the speaker, even though it will sound better right up to its limits. This is a double edged sword as some people might push the speaker too hard as it is still sounding good. Though drivers do introduce their own version of clipping at mechanical limits, thermal limits can sneak up on you, even though those can change the sound signature too.
It also depends on how speakers are power rated. A 200 watt speaker might cook with a 200 watt amplifier playing a sine wave. Many speakers are rated with music in mind, and it's nice to know that the kick drum going PHUT! at 200 watts for a tenth of a second won't damage it, while the rest of the music is at 10 watts. You have to be careful with more and more music having continuous bass and average levels creeping up so the speaker is staying at powers approaching the 200 watts more often and risking a voice coil overheat.
Frequencies are another thing that I touched briefly up above. The power handling of a speaker is different depending on the frequency of the sound. Usually more in the bass and midrange and less in the tweeter. The tweeter can generally produce louder sound on the same power though, both due to its own sensitivity and your ears' sensitivity, which helps. Also at very low frequencies, the woofer can flap around and dent the voice coil former if it bangs into the back of the magnet. Best to filter those out especially in ported enclosures. It will also sound better if your bookshelf speaker isn't trying to reproduce 25Hz.
Pffft what would this guy know
Checks username
Oh...
Class D is digital... PWM its not analog... Extremely high "sampling" of the analog input to give an indistinguishable signal from analog... P.S class D is technically the "cleanest", "purest" un coloured sound you'd get on a technical level with perfect filtering. 😅
About the wires, DIY Perks made a video about it a few days ago in case anyone missed it it is worth watching
I dont think the laser line of sight limitation would make them easy to use in a house.
@@ralph90009 yeah, it was pretty interesting but looked unreliable, cumbersome, and expensive.
@@ralph90009 Limitations are limitations I mean why not just use a cheap Bluetooth speaker?
yeah worth watching to know what not to do xD
@@ralph90009 He actually mounted the lasers on top of the front speaker , pointing up and then used mirrors mounted on the ceiling so there is no risk of a person going in between the speaker and laser emitter. It's very clever, give the video a try. DIY Perks.
Nice work. I've always been told to over spec the amp as you are more likely to blow speakers from clipping the amp than you are from overdriving the speakers.
Car audio guy since 95 ... always been told to have more power than you need...so you're not stressing your amp to its higher end/max...and was told by one VERY reputable family audio shop that they never had anyone blow subs from too much power, but have had a lot blow from under-powering them...this COULD have been a ploy to sell bigger amps. (This shop is still in business)
Thats one chubby TIE Fighter!
I'm glad I wasn't the only one
loved the side by side demonstration. really enjoyed it on my Creative Pebble V3 8W speaker.
Lol- this is something so many youtubers fail to appreciate- the speakers will only ever sound as good as the ones the viewer is using to watch the video with.
They sounded identical with my fairly high-end headphones.
I would always drive subs with amps rated for double the drivers power where possible. Nothing wrong with headroom especially with dsp control.
Exactly. I would go for something in the 500w range for this sub except for class AB amps then you’d be fine with 300 watts
If you live in a flat I can recommend going for a dual opposing driver setup. Less vibrations transferred to the building. So less noise for your neighbors
Huh? Does it play the inverse of the wave?
@@peaceofvideoi feel like he's talking about isobaric configuration (push/pull)
@@peaceofvideo since the two drivers are opposing each other they don‘t cancel out. But the vibrations caused by the drivers do since they’re vibrating „against“ each other. The sonos sub is a good example for isobaric loading.
Awesome build! 👍
Just one note: many people mistakenly think that class D amps are "digital". They're not. The audio signal that goes in is analog, the amplified signal is analog. There's nothing digital in that.
just a hint: wireless speakers have a slight delay and if someone puts on a microwave you have really bad sound. if its not nessesary, dont go wireless on speakers (especially satelites that need external power after going wireless are a bad idea)
Check out DIY perks who used lasers to eliminate lag
You can avoid the interference from microwaves by opting to use a 5GHz system instead of a 2.4GHz system. Additionally, the delay introduced by digital wireless audio is less often than 1ms and imperceptible to even trained ears. This is such a negligible amount that slightly moving the speaker forwards by a dozen centimeters can compensate for any phase shift caused by delays of this kind, and even then most modern AVRs have built in DSP that allows you to customize delays per channel. The listener is never going to be in the "perfect" position either and our ears are not a singular point anyway, so getting this nit-picky over delays doesn't even really accomplish anything. As long as it sounds good, it is fine, and these aren't really factors that are going to cause any issues to people switching over to wireless. There is no major benefit other than cost to using wired vs wireless because of these reasons, both are just as good as each other.
I thought you were going to build a servo subwoofer. I never thought of putting the wireless receiver inside the speaker. Good idea!
I like the speaker of this video, and the wireless solution of diy perks. I'm gonna try to combine the two.
I love how perfectly the TV is mounted directly at eye level
So few people do it and so many people complain about sore necks!
nearly impossible to do when you have a full-size tv and not a tiny 55".
Lies, move your electronics to a shelf on the side and wall mount. Get rid of those gaudy tv cabinets@@FJB2020
They make plate amps that already have wireless functionality.. Even so nice job
@Kevlar187 what’s the price difference
No no no, he's revolutionizing the way people build subwoofers! By utilizing off the shelf products made for this exact purpose, he's changing the way the industry works. Bravo!
This video should be labeled: Complete guide on how to glue up some MDF cut by your CNC followed by trivial soldering.
@@holden-p3r why are you so angry? bro made a cool thing for himself, and made a simple 20 minute how to, to document the process, and show it to people. What cool thing did you do? Watch the video, and instead of clicking off when you didnt like it, be a bit of an ass in the comments? Right... do better.
@@retroferret3424When he stops blatantly lying in his content, I'll dial back my snarky comments
I would definetly add a simple toggle switch for feeding the amplifier wirelessly or by the terminals at the back. Back feeding a receiver can be an issue.
You're going to want to fabric over your port , that close to the floor it will collect a lot of dirt and trash, otherwise great build
A super fine black plastic mesh would look great stretched over the entire front I think
But would have to be tucked behind the driver somehow
One thing I would highly recommend is T-nut fasteners and machine screws. These will add the ability to service the subwoofer indefinitely without concern for damaging the cabinet. Regular wood screws will stress the wood fiber and strip the threading material out of the hole after a few times in and out especially with the vibration and pressure a subwoofer can impart on the wood/fiber material over time.
Doesn't the metal FOIL of the sound dampening pads interfere with the signal as you screwed the wifi unit directly to it?
Wow, beautiful build! One concern, though: the audio connector on the back of the subwoofer has now become an audio output instead of an input. If you connect it to the audio output of an amplifier via a cable, you could potentially damage the amplifier's output or the subwoofer's built-in audio receiver.
To prevent this, you might consider adding a simple two-way switch. This would let you easily choose between the wireless or wired audio channel.
As for power matching, Its always better for the amplifier to have more RMS power, than the speaker. This allows for more dynamic head room. When RMS is matched. You run out of head room and dynamics suffer when pushed to RMS. ..... RMS matching can create more stress on the amplifier, than the driver when being pushed! As a rule of thumb. I run twice the RMS power to my drivers. 1000 watt plate amplifier or a little more would give your design enough head room for dynamics and less stress on the amplifier to speaker relation. The drivers RMS can be passed just fine In on quick dynamic demand peaks. Even more if tuned. Without the danger of clipping the amplifier.
Car Audio Fabrication enters the chat....
The design of the Sub looks great and the wireless feature is a nice addition. But threes things: first the damping you used in the sub is made for car audio and therefore meant to be sticked on metal. For wood i would recommend heavy foam as it’s the best for Bass frequency’s. Second there’s a ~1cm gap as far as I can see where the port end couples to the front plate. Installing a small wood ledge would help reduce port noise (chuffing) drastically. And third I see the reason you choose this amp but the 500w would be a better option since these Dayton drivers can take a lot of power without breaking or distorting from my personal experience. Other than that it’s a great build and video!
Please please PLEASE WEAR BREATHING PROTECTION WHEN YOU'RE MACHINING MDF.
That stuff is hilariously toxic and breathing in it's dust is AWFUL for you, PLEASE put on a mask of literally any description when you're cutting/sanding it.
Just a little formaldehyde 😮😊😮😊😮😊
I love how the actual important information regarding subwoofer design is completely missing from this video, and has been replaced with somewhat related information grossly misinterpreted.
There is so much misinformation in this video it's painful, and seeing the comments following a similar trend of regurgitating mindless fluff as if it's fact just makes it worse.
Very cool, the one thing I know would go wrong in my house is that sub would be a very tempting surface for accumulation. Maybe adding a glass shelf with rubber feet might help?
Sealed does not equal more compact. Depending on the resonant frequency you’re targeting a larger enclosure can be preferable. But, it’s mostly going to depend on the driver you’re using if you’re targeting efficiency. However, if you have a powerful driver, you can build a larger enclosure to get lower extension at a cost of efficiency. Enclosure design is definitely an art. Great job on the video! 😊
Boomier doesn't equal natural sound, just an exaggerated sound.
A few things I would do differently:
1. Round off those sharp edges on the MDF. It'll help them take a bump without damage to the edge.
2. Glue up. Paint your mating surfaces with 50/50 glue and paint and let dry. When you do finally do the full dose of glue, it'll grab better. Also, sprinkle a little sand on the glue joint, not much, just about 3-4 grains per inch. This will keep the two parts from sliding around from the slippery glue.
He's got the sub in a good place, so it's on the same plane as the front speakers. The worst thing you can do it place your sub in the corner: you'll get a LOT of bass, but it's going to sound one note-ish and sloppy. Rule of thumb: 1/3 the way along the wall.
A way to find the best spot for the sub for your favorite listening spot is to put the sub in that listening spot. Then play music with a good solid bass beat and walk the perimeter of the room. The spot with the best sounding bass is going to be the sub's sweet spot and should be placed there. If. your room's furniture placement is not letting place it there, see how it sounds in places where it can go and choose the second best. A sub in the best place audibly but in a bad place functionally will be a continuous problem.
corner loading your subs is actually common practice in home theaters....
The bass port should be rounded, i have one DIY car subwoofer as a home theater sub with 15" driver but the guy who made it and bought it from made a bass port sharp. At lower volume you can't hear it but i making a parties with my friends more often than you think and i couldn't whithstand the " flutter " sound comming from that bass port. Next year i'll be making a whole new enclosure tuned around 18Hz so it'll be pretty damn big thing in my living room. The second subwoofer will be some trashy Technics whatever it is for higher frequencies starting around 35Hz so they should overlap themself pretty nicely.
Pretty sure what you're referring to is called "chuffing", and I'd recommend DYI Perks' latest video when it comes to your harmonic overlap scenario, though it's geared more towards a complete speaker build than just being a subwoofer enclosure.
@ i've seen that video don't worry :D they must to overlap because i don't have any other crossover for them laying around and those are home built with agressive slope specially made for that purpouse. Big boy's crossover can pass through anything from 0Hz basically to around 25-28Hz which after that has 12dB/octave reduction and the smaller 10" sub has crossover that starts at 33Hz and ends up at 47Hz with 6dB/octave slope. Mids and highs are set via AV receiver to not be able to play under 60Hz because they are kinda weak though i burnt my center speaker few months ago because i set the equalizer wrong and i let the whole pallete of sound spectrum to enter the center channel while i was making a party and it died just after a few second after the Drum n Bass bass drop. And also i have bass boosted frequencies for those two subs but right now the big boy can't play efficiently below 30Hz you can barely hear it pass that frequency.. it is kinda mixed up all together but it sounds really good and it'll be even more after i make that 18Hz tuned box. I really want to push my window in to the street i really hope it will happen but if not i'm building another one fr
Really cool you were able to get that done at 14:40, being able to customize with both wood and electronics makes for some really cool project like this one, glad YT put this on my feed today.
Great video! Quick note/question: does the vocal audio sound a little muffled to anyone else? It sound like there's a barrier between his voice and the mic to me
Sounds like some sort of noise reduction
Yeah I heard that too
Parts of the video definitely sound like his lav mic was under his hoodie. Pretty lame mistake for a video about sound equipment.
You did not need the kill mat at all and half the bracing does nothing but take up space and make you feel better, but it looks good and more people should build things sweet box
You really f'd up that port, having the oval opening makes it smaller than the rest of the port length and will create turbulence. The port volume will be forced though a narrower opening and will make more unwanted port noise known as port chuffing. Also painting some of those areas before putting the WOOD glue down means the glue cant soak into the wood fibers properly which is very bad for the structural integrity of those joints.
He has "Atmos speakers" that point up.. I wouldn't take ANYTHING he says about speakers seriously...
I'd like to add something to the fact that you said you want to match the amplifier power as closely to the subwoofer as possible. Only that's partly true, the rating on amps are usually the max power they can deliver but at times that is with 1% to even 10% distortion which doesn't always sound good. So It's recommended that you use a more overpowered amp and set the levels at the power rating of your speaker so in that way you don't blow up your speaker but also don't have any unwanted distortion from the amp.
You can run both subwoofers. Sometimes it can help with dead spots which you probably will have, depending on placement of the sub. Place one on one wall and the other on an adjacent wall, run them 180 degrees out of phase. I have 2 Klipsch 12in ported subwoofers that go down to 24hz. Music at low volume sounds fuller because of the attenuated base and action movies can/will shake the house.
You do very good DYI stuff.
In my opinion, sealed Subwoofers with enough speaker area, and an audio-processor to expand the low-output is the best.
what id like to see is a compact subwoofer build. My truck in particular doesnt even have space for underseat subs. 05' Ranger standard cab, currently I have Rockvilles 12 inch sub behind the bench seat. box 4 inches on top and its base is six inches wide. dont remember how long it is off the top of my head. does sound surprisingly really good though. just enough room but no movement with the seat. would love an alternative I could build myself.
Your info on enough watts is incorrect, watts in speaker spec is only a thermal limit of that Rs315HF you've used, it could take a 1000wrms amp all day long because sound is dynamic the only time it will become a problem is if you feed it constantly from a tone generator(ie SPL car audio nuts)at high SPL's for several minutes.
Also that sound deadening applied inside was a waste of it, you've already braced that cab well enough to not need it!
All in all though its a nice build that'll last you many years, well done.
Very nice video and what a beautiful subwoofer build. thank you for posting this.
I bought a polk audio 12 inch sub with built in power. Its 450 watts. Sounds amazing and hits so hard with barely turned up. Paid less then 300 bucks for it at the time. I love building stuff myself but alot of them times i will buy pre-built then mod it my self. It ends up being cheaper.
Nice choice. I used the Dayton UM18-22 and a behringer NX6000D amp for mine. Outperforms my Paradigm Servo 15 by a big margin and I have a second amp channel to add another UM18-22 in the future (which I will do). And cost wise it was $2.2k AUD to buy everything and build it
I have two UM18-22s in the DIYSG sealed boxes with a single Crown XLi3500. Sounds amazing and shakes the house lol..
I have a really old book from the 80's titled 'Subwoofer Design'. It was only about 400 pages. It was 400 pages of math and design considerations.... :P
Really love the video! But class-D doesn't mean digital. Also it looks a bit like a TIE fighter 😅
Thank you! I thought I misheard the “Class D” comment.
Well it could be classified a digital beacause it's switch mode, square spwm signal through a low pass filter
@@R4MP4G3RXD The switching is value-discrete but time-continuous, so it is not digital. The timing when the switching happens is analogue from a comparator, so for half the transitions, the switching doesn't happen at any of the discrete timesteps but when the sawtooth or similar timing signal happens to cross over the reference signal in analogue domain.
@@SianaGearz Yes but class D amplifiers have a carrier frequency which ultimately determines how detailed the spwm signal is; wouldn't that technically make it a discrete sampler?
Also by that train of thought are asynchronous logic gates analog?
@@R4MP4G3RXD Yeah... it seems like a digital amplifier to me, from whatever definition of digital I have stuck in my head.
Since you have the room and you're replacing a Klipsch branded subwoofer, I'm surprised you didn't go with a corner horn.
If anything adding another sub will help balance the room your not supposed to be able to hear where bass comes from but having more than one sub in room helps, if you want to go all out check out what rel do with their six packs that’s a whole new level again
I love my 600W sub vibrating the fuck out of my living room 🥰🥰
This channel is so fun!
But how much did you spend versus the store bought?
It may be a new concept to make the sub wireless, but it's not really anything new. I remember back in the early to mid 2000s, my family had a pretty decent home theater system and it had wireless rear speakers so we could put them all the way on the other side of the room and not run any cables along the floor to the DVD player (which had the amp integrated). They were technically passive, but still needed to be plugged into the wall for the receiver to work.
I built my bass amp with two 12s in a double cube cabinet. One side is ported, one side is not. While it does give me the best of both worlds, the drivers may or may not be in phase at any given frequency.
With some sawtooth distortion and clipping from the amplifier stage, it's really hard to tell, though.
Edit: While a personal fan of the black boring box, I built my box out of a large shelving unit that had maple veneer, and I made the grillecloth from a pair of Adidas track pants, with the stripes running across the face of the box. It's called the "Blyamp".
Edit 2: Class D is not digital. It's just PWM.
If only i could live in your house! Its so futuristic!
You mixed some stuff up with the power ratings. The amplifier should be **more powerful** than the rating of your sub prescribes. Ideally with some headroom. So if you've got a 400 watt sub, you should target for an amp that could handle up to 500 watt (at the given ohm rating of your sub).
Yeah, I was like "am I remembering wrong?"
Thanks for clarifying.
This reduces potential distortion from the amplifier side
Nope, because the subwoofer is a passive component, that is rated for peak Watt and RMS Watt, 300W RMS is the power that the subwoofer can handle not Its optimal working point You sould use an aplifier lower or equal than 300W RMS at the same ohm to avoid burning the copper windings when you put at max wolume the amplifier. A 150W RMS Amplifier can easly handle a 300W RMS subwoofer.
Been doing car audio for many years and this isn't how I practice my builds. The amp only sees the impedance so as long as that is within spec you want the driver to be able to handle the amp at max power output with some headroom. You're the one mixing up these things.
@@w1thso That's why you set gains on the amp and leave them be, if you've done it right then the sub won't be overdriven and won't be melting it's coils either way. A bigger amp running at lower power is going to sound better and be safer to the speakers than a tiny amp running full wide open, ready to clip out at a moments notice.
16:02 🙏 I was literally just looking for some good recommendations for a 3d printer
Please do a passive wireless setup next! Its been a pain in the current products available
whats a good tip on figuring out mounting holes on a pcb i always struggle on getting that just right
What is frequency response on that driver? I missed that if you put it out there.
0:52 “subwooper”
What about the latency of the wirelsss connection? How do you sync the woofer with the rest of the audio signal?
I bet the curing at the window worked good enough, but aren’t typical windows intransparent to UV?
really cool video as usual
no way I have the skills, talent, or time for this so I'm likely to just buy an off the shelf solution but I love this kind of stuff
Those wood grain speakers are sick! 🤩
You actually want a more powerful amplifier than the speaker. This is so you have headroom and are not driving the amplifier into clipping. This can cause the sub to still blow even at lower wattage. A perfect match for this sub would be a proper gain matched SPA-500.
Note that the wave link system's manual states a minimum audio response frequency of 20 Hz.
Low enough for most. But some high-end receivers can go lower than that thus losing some quality.
Hey Zac or anyone who knows, what 3d modeling software do you use? I never get a clear shot of it in video, thanks in advance
it looks like Fusion360. Very capable software and available for free for personal use
arg yes the CNC machine having kinda DYI, love that ... for you
do the angles, edges, and volume of the butyl sheets that you stuck all over the internal surfaces interfere with the sound waves?
I love your videos man they entertain me and my kiddos every time you drop a new banger
Bluetooth can add a bit of latency but overall if you want less cables that's the wat to go and btw i also suggest to hot glue the wires to the speaker walls because at low frequencies the wires can start vibrating and would start making a annoying rattling sound in the speaker
Impressively I can hear it through my phone... It fills the lower spectrum better
Now you need to build a second one :)
Personally i like sealed box, bcz it produces very clean sound.. 😊
6:49 that's what she said
I have 4 x 18" sealed subs and never had an issue with my neighbors saying anything even though that room is right next to their house. And that was the same with my old 12" SVS trash-can style subs. I don't think sub waves pass through your wall into the outdoors and through your neighbor's house that easily.
Zach I’m only sad about 1 thing. When you test a home theater subwoofer it’s an unwritten rule that you play bass I love you by bassatronics. Amazing video hope I see the short soon of it playing bass I love you :)
What program are you useing for cad you mentioned a few other videos, and it was a free versions but did not say what it was
Looks like Fusion 360 by autodesk
what is your receiver brand? I have a onkyo receiver for my system
We have different ideas around MASSIVE! LOL Nice work.
Omg!! Zac is a big handsome baby !!!! 😍❤️
Actually best timing for me just was looking today about buying or should diy one sub thanks for vid bro you got a sub
Huh. Interesting new information thank you!
14:55 i am not 100% sure, but aren't UV Rays are mostly blocked by window glass?
That steam punk Tie Fighter sounds great lol
Naiiiil Gun!
Looks great. Now build 3 more 😂
I can't even imagine the astronomical view counts you would get if you teamed up to build something with Drew Anger from Drew Builds Stuff. It needs to happen!
Hi Zac! A long time viewer here! You assumption about driver "watt" number should match the amplifier's "watt" number is blatantly wrong simply because of physics. The amp's rating of 300 watts has to be questioned, is it peak power at 10% THD? Or is it at it's maximum cleanest power before ramping up THD? USUALLY amplifier manufacturers will use power rating @1% THD, but some will omit the 1% THD and go for max power before blowing up. What kills your driver (or to be specific, it's voice coil) is the amp clipping - which will apply a constant high-ish voltage to your voice coil, getting it hot. When coils get hot, it's resistance increases up to a certain degree, after that, the coil will simply burn (the wire will burn off in a section of the coil). You can have a 1000 watt "rated" amp to drive a 300 watt "rated" subwoofer driver, what you get is HEADROOM where when your audio content requires a "punch" beyond "300 watts", your amp has it. FYI, let's say your 300 watts amp and your subwoofer produces 100dB SPL, to get the SPL to 103 SPL you need 600 watts, to get it to 106 dB SPL, you need 1200 watts. So the bigger the amp, the better you'll be simply because your speaker has smaller chance of burning out (hopefully you won't reach clipping level of your amp by having a HUGE amp). On the other hand, if you have a HUGE amp and your subwoofer driver's suspension system is not up to par, the one bad thing mechanically that can happen is that your cone/voice coil/former assembly will hit the bottom of the magnet, and at worst, it may "blow up", as in the suspension system can't hold on to the cone and the cone gets ripped off out of the suspension system - the visual will look like the woofer's cone got "blown away", ripping out the surround, spider, and wires...
You not right about matching amp and speaker wattage. Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 Power Handling (RMS) 400 watts, Power Handling (max) 800 watts. You can over power you ampifier, and actualy shuld. You should use at least 400 W amplifier for 400 W RMS subwoofer speaker. But better would be to use 2 times more. Two reasons. First: speaker can handle 2 times more power for short time. Second: power amplifier running at max power begins to distort signal (begins clipping and adds high frequency harmonics).
Serious tip: take a soldering course. Self learning is nice, but the industry has way more experience. (RUclips is great to learn, but for learning soldering it's not that great yet)
Didn't Dave Jones on the EEVBLOG make one years ago? Or was it Ben Heck? Probably both and pretty much all the pros... X)
@ Dave wasn’t the worst, good enough for hobbyists, but if I would deliver that quality at work I need to start over
My question for you: do you think there is a viable way to get power from speaker wiring/RCA? You could replace your current wired speakers that way ans still have power.
Thanks a lot for this vid !!!!
What 3D software are you using?
Looks like Autodesk Fusion
I hope this is your 'first' build, as a sort of proof of concept. When you use less than 3/4 inch thick wood, let alone that pressboard, you are asking for the cabinet to fail, especially when listening at high volumes with a bass heavy material. Also, pressboard seems to wick water and is susceptible to high humidity. The heavier and thicker wood, assists with keeping the cabinet 'in place'!.
does having the port on the same surface as the driver cause phase cancellation?
No not realy, it doesn't really matter what surface you place the port or driver on for a sub. The wavelengths are so long that it doesn't matter
I'd say the real phase problem would be on the wireless unit first
@@NoxMessor100%. He's not addressing latency at all until he converts all the other speakers to the same wireless setup.
@@RobertWrightOneManCovers most surround receivers can do room correction and will correct for delays like this
i love how both you and DIY Perks put out a video involving wireless home theater speaker builds in the same week haha
Yeah, but this is just a regular subwoofer copied from the internet and perks' is genious.
Комментарий в поддержку канала и ролика, а также труда мастера.
That denali screwdriver is great, huh?!
Did I miss your video on your height speakers? I've been playing with some lower end atmos setups and have been terribly dissapointed. Was this part of a kit or purpose built by you?
Im suprised he didnt make this transparent aswell
Love how in 2024 it’s math, a you tube video, computer schematics, massive selection of drivers, amps and Eq’s….and the endless design possibilities. Me in the 80’s. Measure friends car. Build enclosure with a port using my ear to test the port length as we go. Paint it all. Put carpet on it after sealing it,and then install in his truck. Voila. I make 200 bucks, he has a bump in truck, and everyone is happy. Remember, that was 200 in 1985!!
yooooo dead space!!!!! that's my favorite game series!
It has a more dominant presence