You still don't know for certain that you have the polarity correct. Somebody could have reversed the leads to the meter. It would be best to determine the correct rotation of the motor and then determine polarity from that. When the heater fan runs, which way does the air flow? Also, there is a driver cooling fan on top of the control panel. Which way does the air flow when it runs? These are further clues, but it's best to know from a manual or markings on the motor which way it is supposed to turn. Does the starter have a Bendix to engage and dis-engage it. A Bendix won't engage if turning the wrong way (this advice from a retired electrical engineer). Be absolutely certain that it's turning correct before adding fuel. Yes, please tape up or otherwise insulate the splice where you added the wire extension. A short there could blow your batteries and/or burn up your engine. Do you have a good fire extinguisher close by when doing this work? ABC type is good, but messy. CO2 leaves no mess to clean, but won't work well on paper/wood fires. For that engine, I would want at least one, possibly two 15 lb or larger on board all the time, but especially when working on it. (this advice from a retired fire marshal / electrical engineer). Is 2021 your selected engine number for it? You bought the railroad in 2020. Will that be on the other side? (I'll wait to see after painting).
Reversed polarity doesn't make a electromagnet field motor run backwards. It only makes permanent magnet motors run backwards. Reverse polarity reverses the magnetic field of both the armature and the field. That means the motor will spin the same direction.
Yep. Changing polarity won't change the rotation of the starter motor. On old cars with generators and mechanical regulators you could change from positive to negative ground just by re-polarizing the generator and regulator. Electric gauges and accessories might not like it but the car will run just fine.
The battery cables are not too short, the 3 batteries that belong in there are about twice as tall and deeper than the ones you have. We had 2 GE center cabs at Bucyrus in South Milwaukee, Wi. and when they needed a jumpstart, we got out the engine driven stick welder and hooked it directly across the batteries.
My uncle worked for the C&O when they had a car float between Newport News VA and Norfolk VA. I remember him saying they would call a local welder when they needed to jump start the switcher they used to unload and load the cars in Norfolk.
You have them wired backwards. The one knife that they shorted ND ran to a new cutout switch is because you only need to have the negative or positive disconnected to cut power
You might want to insulate the battery cable extensions because they will sway as the locomotive moves and possibly touch the frame and short out. Or worse, cause the batteries to overheat and burst.
I saw that too and it set off my cringe meter....and the uninsulated wrench...but I know you work with what you've got. I've replaced my car battery with an uninsulated wrench several times. But, it still makes me cringe when I see someone else do it.
Somebody disagreed with me! Nobody could possibly have a subjective opinion that differs from my own! Especially not about the crucial question of whether a thirteen-and-a-half-minute video about locomotive starter motor batteries is interesting! Anyone who dislikes this must be malicious!!
It looks like your battery box has a ledge that goes all the way around the inside of the box. This would suggest to me that the battery cable is at the correct length because there should be two levels of batteries. Six 6-volt batteries in series would certainly provide more cranking amps than three 12-volt batteries.
well that would have been doubly curious because it was common years ago for diesel engine semi trucks to be wired with positive ground, we even had to make sure we had positive ground CB and AM/FM radios, don't know if it would apply to locomotives
Be careful the exposed terminal doesn't short to ground. 36 volts is plenty to burn a hole in the steel. My Peterbilt used four of those batteries in parallel. Also the guys who build lowrider cars with hydraulics (cars that hop) use at least 96 Volts. Six 12V batteries in series.
Good to get a refresher on battery polarity and connections. Never really needed it but found it most interesting! The only polarity problem I ever had was with an old 9N Ford farm tractor. Finally figured out it was positive ground. Once I reversed the cables it started and ran great, LOL! I'll be with you this weekend...
Can not wait to see the engine start and move under it's own power. Railroad question are you a fan of UP steam program? In Tennessee they are doing restoration on an engine that sat in Centennial Park for almost sixty years Nashville Steam
Great progress! Can't wait to hear this beauty purr to life!! Don't wait too long to get some insulation of those "swingin in the breeze" battery cables. You don't want to do any welding in that compartment - not yet anyway!
Brian, having installed and worked on two-way radios in many locomotives for a shoreline railroad, I would say you have a positive ground locomotive. Almost every locomotive we worked on was, and when we installed radios we usually bought a conversion pack (converted the 96v positive ground to 12v negative ground). I miss being around those beasts. Just went and saw the Big Boy steam through Benton, Arkansas the other day. About 60 feet away from it under an overpass. I enjoy your channel and wish you continued success in your endeavors. Stay safe.
Cant believe 17 thumbs down..r u kidding...I know nothing about what he is doing but since day 1 I have learned so much from the ETR owner/operator..and his son..both have amazing knowledge and skills.
This is a positive ground DC system. I first encountered this on an old tractor. The pos, (bat+) went to the chassis for ground, and the neg, (bat-) went straight to the starter.
9:00 Most locomotives have a warning bell. This locomotive is only small, so it has a warning triangle. I heard Graham volunteered to run alongside and operate the triangle.
My thought on them wiring that big red button to the neg side is for an emergency shut down. No need to open the electrical cabinet to pull the battery power. As a BTW, I am affiliated with the Cape May Seashore Lines in southern New Jersey and have done maintenance work on our two running Budd RDCs. I also worked for Amtrak as a radio maintainer.
Lion I think you are right, the big red button is a faster/safer disconnect. Not enough people know how beautiful south N.J. is! I went through Basic at Cape May, good memories. MK1
Purchase a roll of red electric tape, use it to mark all positive (+) battery cables at Battery box and in the cab's electrical cabinet. (Battery box exposed connections) Go to an electrical supply tell them what you're doing and they will set you up with the correct way of splicing those battery cables and insulating them so you don't start a fire
Having dealt with many battery banks in solar installs I always had "special wrenches" for the common size terminal connections. They were physically cut too short to reach between terminals AND were dipped in "Plasti-Dip" as an added safety feature. When you have 40 6V batteries in a series/parallel configuration to end up with 12 volts, believe me, you have some serious amperage!! Use the utmost caution!! That ratchet scared me!! It rolled over with no knocking or grinding... good sign. Flush the lines, new filters, check the pumps, prime all injectors & give the old girl a spin. Where it hasn't run in several years Maybe plan on having a second set of batteries in case you wear down the first.. Semper Paratus USCG 71-79 Cape May B-83
I like your videos but I would suggest that in most cases you cover more information in the videos, so what if they are longer as I would prefer to learn more of what you are doing and see more results, keep up the good work.
You have the polarity right now. The starter motors are turning the engines so they are running the right direction. I was thinking the two small contactors were for the engine starter motors. and the large contactors were for the traction motors. The reversing switch changes polarity on both traction motors at the same time. That way you can't have one motor in forward and one in reverse at the same time. I would be really careful about dirty diesel fuel in the tanks. No telling how long the switcher has sat in a yard.
As an electrician in a steel mill I have worked on a few locomotives and we have certain conventions, one being "The positive is always on the top or on the left" also line is on the top of disconnects and load is on the bottom if the disconnect is sideways line is on the left and load is on the right. Sorry but if you reversed just one battery you would only have 12 volts. The reversed battery will cancel one of the two other batteries only leaving one to provide power. For a little more info. Those DC contactors also have blowout coils behind the stationary contact that when the contacts open magnetically push the arc up into the arc shute and off of the contacts to reduce the burning of the contacts. Great vid I can't wait to see if it starts.
Normally when you go to higher voltage, you need to change the voltage regulator and the alternator The alternator has a built in voltage regulator and puts out 34 volts to charge the 32 volt battery array. The 2nd voltage regulator is to drop the 36 volts, which will actually be 38 volts, down to 34 volts It is easy enough to add one and replace the alternator. You should have a diode after the alternator so when you are checking alternator voltage you get the voltage from the alternator, not the battery Normally you can't charge 36 volts using a 34 volt alternator Some times there is no governor and a 34 volt alternator can go up to 36, or 38 Usually if the batteries are really dead the alternator will put out 6 volts above the baseline voltage A 12 volt battery can take 18 volts for a short time
You are wrong on the charging Voltage for a 32VDC nominal system. Lead-acid batteries charge at 2.4 to 2.5 Vols per cell in normal use. A 32Volt Nominal system will output 38.4 Volts and top out at 40 Volts. A 36 Volt nominal string will charge at 43 Volts to 45Volts. So while it won't fully charge the batteries, the 36Volts of batteries won't hurt the system either as they will be below what the system can handle. The 3 12VDC batteries at rest should read 38.4 which is the low end of charging for a 32VDC system.
Exide makes 4 cell 8v batteries. Another option is 8v batteries sold for tractor use. Attempting to charge a 36v battery with a 32v system probably won't work. Additionally, if changing the system voltage to 36v the contactor coil should be as well. Low duty ones like for engine start could survive but constant duty ones might overheat.
That's a concern of mine also. The voltage that the alternators produce may only be 32 volts and that will not charge the 36 volt system. They may have to swap out the alternators to 36 volt alternators on both engines. I'm hoping the best for Brian and Gramm, I think they have what it takes to make this work.
@ roughly the 6.00 mark, you comment on the cables being too short. i may be wrong, but it looks to me as if there is a ledge around the inside of the box, at roughly the height of the batteries. maybe there is supposed to be a shelf? on the ledge and the batteries sit on the shelf, thereby making the cables the right length. possibly saving the area under the batteries for some kind of storage. tools? oil? filters? "stuff"? maybe? there is certainly enough space in that compartment for the batteries to rid a foot or more higher. you do not know how bad i wanna be there helping. keep on keepin' on my friend.
If you have cold Weather starting problems, 3 more 12 volt batteries would likely help for starting these diesels. Three groups of two in parallel, then the three groups in series, would be the best way to do this.
I suggest when you go to start it for the first time get a can of ether or 2. When I had to rebuild a Cummins in class it came in handy for its start up. Note spray the can into the air intake while trying to crank it.
I would not keep trying the battery if you think it's reversed you might do some damage to other things linked to the battery. Also make sure that any terminals fixed to a secure point e.g. side of the battery box and that especially the starter cable gauges are much bigger than you need as it will reduce the voltage drop from the batteries to the starter motor and the positive cables should be red, negative black. Where cables rub on metal or go through a hole the need clamping to stop rubbing and cutting into the cable or cables, through holes a grommet or other method of cables being compromised. Labeling also helps in fault finding.
HAHA!! Love this video and the education on series versus parallel battery connections. BUT.. you're such a TEASE! Seeing and hearing the engine roll over, you just wanna hear it START!! I can't wait to see and hear those twin Cummins HUM! Just kidding (kinda) about being a tease... kinda.
I vote Yes, it'll run! I mean, there isn't even a tree growing through it, so can't have been neglected like one of those ancient drag lines I've seen people revive.
Why didn't you use Volt Ohm meter to check continuity of the cables without following the cable by hand ? Always put your positive cables on first and then the negative when hooking up batteries. Do the reverse when disconnecting.
You sorta have the idea, but you are wrong in your terminology. The rule to follow is "Always disconnect the GROUND cable first and the HOT cable last when removing the battery cables" and "Always connect the HOT cable first and the GROUND cable last when connecting the battery cables". Using terms POSITIVE and NEGATIVE when stating the safe SEQUENCE of action is wrong, because it does not take into consideration whether the vehicle at hand is positive or negative ground. So it is safer to just use the terms HOT or GROUND, and yes you should understand which is the ground and hot before you touch anything no matter what you are dealing with.
@@larrywalker7759 My terminology is correct Negative is ground and Positive is hot. Please read what I posted. Removing a battery, Negative cable first then Positive and do the reverse when installing.
@@RichieCat4223 EXCEPT it has already been stated that this locomotive battery system is configured as a POSITIVE GROUND. Therefore, when removing a battery in THIS system, disconnect the POSITIVE (ground) first and the NEGATIVE (hot) last. Reverse the steps for installation. The reason that the words "ground" and "hot" are used instead of "positive and negative" in the safety procedure is so that no matter which type system you are working on, you will still be doing it safely. And I did read what you posted.....I read it several times before I posted my clarifying explanation. Yes, it is true that "most" automobiles in use today have negative ground systems, and on those your substituting "negative and positive" for the terms "ground and hot" would provide the correct sequence of action for safe battery install/remove, but on this locomotive and any other positive ground system those terms will cause an unsafe procedure to be carried out. There is no written rule or standard that requires negative to be ground and positive to be hot and there never was such a standard. It is the obligation of the person working on the vehicle to identify the type of system the vehicle is configured with and adapt the safe battery handling procedure to the system, not naively cling to the words "positive" and "negative".
Stop in Chillicothe (my home town) and get some Crispie Creme donuts. That’s right, with a C, not a K. Best around since 1929. Great coffee, too. Waverly had 3 railroads until the DT&I/GTW pulled out in the 80’s.
Кино
You still don't know for certain that you have the polarity correct. Somebody could have reversed the leads to the meter. It would be best to determine the correct rotation of the motor and then determine polarity from that. When the heater fan runs, which way does the air flow? Also, there is a driver cooling fan on top of the control panel. Which way does the air flow when it runs? These are further clues, but it's best to know from a manual or markings on the motor which way it is supposed to turn. Does the starter have a Bendix to engage and dis-engage it. A Bendix won't engage if turning the wrong way (this advice from a retired electrical engineer). Be absolutely certain that it's turning correct before adding fuel.
Yes, please tape up or otherwise insulate the splice where you added the wire extension. A short there could blow your batteries and/or burn up your engine. Do you have a good fire extinguisher close by when doing this work? ABC type is good, but messy. CO2 leaves no mess to clean, but won't work well on paper/wood fires. For that engine, I would want at least one, possibly two 15 lb or larger on board all the time, but especially when working on it. (this advice from a retired fire marshal / electrical engineer).
Is 2021 your selected engine number for it? You bought the railroad in 2020. Will that be on the other side? (I'll wait to see after painting).
Reversed polarity doesn't make a electromagnet field motor run backwards. It only makes permanent magnet motors run backwards. Reverse polarity reverses the magnetic field of both the armature and the field. That means the motor will spin the same direction.
Yep. Changing polarity won't change the rotation of the starter motor. On old cars with generators and mechanical regulators you could change from positive to negative ground just by re-polarizing the generator and regulator. Electric gauges and accessories might not like it but the car will run just fine.
Thank goodness for fast forward! I'm one of your low tech impatient fans loudly exclaiming "let's see the old girl start!"
The battery cables are not too short, the 3 batteries that belong in there are about twice as tall and deeper than the ones you have. We had 2 GE center cabs at Bucyrus in South Milwaukee, Wi. and when they needed a jumpstart, we got out the engine driven stick welder and hooked it directly across the batteries.
DITTO
On the deeper cycle batteries. Much taller.
My uncle worked for the C&O when they had a car float between Newport News VA and Norfolk VA. I remember him saying they would call a local welder when they needed to jump start the switcher they used to unload and load the cars in Norfolk.
You have them wired backwards. The one knife that they shorted ND ran to a new cutout switch is because you only need to have the negative or positive disconnected to cut power
I can't take the suspense any longer. Fire that puppy up!!!
I share your confidence that the engines will start up,it was great to see them turn over.Good job you checked out the electrics.👍😁😁😁🚂🇬🇧
You might want to insulate the battery cable extensions because they will sway as the locomotive moves and possibly touch the frame and short out. Or worse, cause the batteries to overheat and burst.
I saw that too and it set off my cringe meter....and the uninsulated wrench...but I know you work with what you've got. I've replaced my car battery with an uninsulated wrench several times. But, it still makes me cringe when I see someone else do it.
It'll be fine.
Great series! Thanks for taking us alongside for the journey.
Why on Earth would somebody give this awesome Channel a thumbs down? They just must be Channel trolls
Somebody disagreed with me! Nobody could possibly have a subjective opinion that differs from my own! Especially not about the crucial question of whether a thirteen-and-a-half-minute video about locomotive starter motor batteries is interesting! Anyone who dislikes this must be malicious!!
Great video! Enjoyed the in class session - felt just like high school, without the fear of detention!
Thank you for sharing. YES, it will run we have the right people on the job.
It looks like your battery box has a ledge that goes all the way around the inside of the box. This would suggest to me that the battery cable is at the correct length because there should be two levels of batteries. Six 6-volt batteries in series would certainly provide more cranking amps than three 12-volt batteries.
Not necessarily. It would depend on the cranking amps of each battery and amperage stays the same in a series circuit. Ohms law.
It came with 8 volt batteries originally. Rail was 32 volt until the 60's and then the battery went to 64 volt for the bigger diesel engines.
well that would have been doubly curious because it was common years ago for diesel engine semi trucks to be wired with positive ground, we even had to make sure we had positive ground CB and AM/FM radios, don't know if it would apply to locomotives
At what point will you power wash the inside for oil leaking detection? Great work so far!
NOW that you have a genuine Legacy Loco... UR Subscribers should increase dramatically! 👏🏽👍🏼☺️
P.S. "Chase the Mice Out".... PRICELESS 👏🏽👍🏼☺️
Be careful the exposed terminal doesn't short to ground. 36 volts is plenty to burn a hole in the steel.
My Peterbilt used four of those batteries in parallel. Also the guys who build lowrider cars with hydraulics (cars that hop) use at least 96 Volts. Six 12V batteries in series.
I've never been so excited about something which I know absolutely nothing about. Can't wait to see that old girl running! Great stuff!
Good to get a refresher on battery polarity and connections. Never really needed it but found it most interesting! The only polarity problem I ever had was with an old 9N Ford farm tractor. Finally figured out it was positive ground. Once I reversed the cables it started and ran great, LOL! I'll be with you this weekend...
I’m loving this channel so much. I’m learning a ton and can’t wait for more. I hope you get tons of subscriber and rail customers shortly
Daniel Thanks for following. Lets keep learning together. Brian
I've never been so excited to see a shaft rotate before!
Great enjoyable video. Looking forward to more content. God bless in all your efforts.
Can not wait to see the engine start and move under it's own power. Railroad question are you a fan of UP steam program? In Tennessee they are doing restoration on an engine that sat in Centennial Park for almost sixty years Nashville Steam
What a great story. I can’t wait for the next chapter. Hopefully this weekend..
Was hoping to see what the Voltmeter was registering as you turned the engine over and I will definitely be there for the start up this weekend.👍🔨🔧🛠️
Great progress! Can't wait to hear this beauty purr to life!! Don't wait too long to get some insulation of those "swingin in the breeze" battery cables. You don't want to do any welding in that compartment - not yet anyway!
Brian, having installed and worked on two-way radios in many locomotives for a shoreline railroad, I would say you have a positive ground locomotive. Almost every locomotive we worked on was, and when we installed radios we usually bought a conversion pack (converted the 96v positive ground to 12v negative ground). I miss being around those beasts. Just went and saw the Big Boy steam through Benton, Arkansas the other day. About 60 feet away from it under an overpass. I enjoy your channel and wish you continued success in your endeavors. Stay safe.
Shortline NOT shoreline! Dang you autocorrect!
would love some glam shots of the 2021 for wallpaper! love the beast, (same age as me, and better looking to boot) keep the videos coming, thanks.
Nice update. Can’t wait to see it run.
Cant believe 17 thumbs down..r u kidding...I know nothing about what he is doing but since day 1 I have learned so much from the ETR owner/operator..and his son..both have amazing knowledge and skills.
Impressive so far!
Awesome series! Can't wait to see her run! When will volunteers be deployed? Paint scraping and brush clearing should be within anyone's abilities.
Great video, waiting for the big start up.
Awesome job looking forward to the next video good luck
I LOVE THIS CHANNEL !!!!
This is a positive ground DC system. I first encountered this on an old tractor. The pos, (bat+) went to the chassis for ground, and the neg, (bat-) went straight to the starter.
I give it a 75% chance of running. Because when you did your inspection you shared that it looked well maintained.
9:00 Most locomotives have a warning bell. This locomotive is only small, so it has a warning triangle. I heard Graham volunteered to run alongside and operate the triangle.
My thought on them wiring that big red button to the neg side is for an emergency shut down. No need to open the electrical cabinet to pull the battery power.
As a BTW, I am affiliated with the Cape May Seashore Lines in southern New Jersey and have done maintenance work on our two running Budd RDCs. I also worked for Amtrak as a radio maintainer.
Lion I think you are right, the big red button is a faster/safer disconnect. Not enough people know how beautiful south N.J. is! I went through Basic at Cape May, good memories. MK1
Can't wait to hear this baby run!!!
You need to put some liquid tape on the exposed connectors that are on the battery cables so it doesn't short on the metal
A massive yes to that. Did not like that exposed connector at all.
Can't wait to hear it fire up! Greetings from wi.
Purchase a roll of red electric tape, use it to mark all positive (+) battery cables at Battery box and in the cab's electrical cabinet. (Battery box exposed connections) Go to an electrical supply tell them what you're doing and they will set you up with the correct way of splicing those battery cables and insulating them so you don't start a fire
Having dealt with many battery banks in solar installs I always had "special wrenches" for the common size terminal connections. They were physically cut too short to reach between terminals AND were dipped in "Plasti-Dip" as an added safety feature. When you have 40 6V batteries in a series/parallel configuration to end up with 12 volts, believe me, you have some serious amperage!! Use the utmost caution!! That ratchet scared me!!
It rolled over with no knocking or grinding... good sign. Flush the lines, new filters, check the pumps, prime all injectors & give the old girl a spin.
Where it hasn't run in several years Maybe plan on having a second set of batteries in case you wear down the first.. Semper Paratus USCG 71-79 Cape May B-83
G,day Brian it was good to tell us how 12 v work in 36v , great job mate cool coffee cup as well thanks cheers...
Enjoyed the video bro. Safe travels
Looking forward to it starting.
Pretty stoked when that engine
Fires up brother
Cool looking forward to that👍
Very exciting
I like your videos but I would suggest that in most cases you cover more information in the videos, so what if they are longer as I would prefer to learn more of what you are doing and see more results, keep up the good work.
You have the polarity right now. The starter motors are turning the engines so they are running the right direction. I was thinking the two small contactors were for the engine starter motors. and the large contactors were for the traction motors. The reversing switch changes polarity on both traction motors at the same time. That way you can't have one motor in forward and one in reverse at the same time. I would be really careful about dirty diesel fuel in the tanks. No telling how long the switcher has sat in a yard.
As an electrician in a steel mill I have worked on a few locomotives and we have certain conventions, one being "The positive is always on the top or on the left" also line is on the top of disconnects and load is on the bottom if the disconnect is sideways line is on the left and load is on the right. Sorry but if you reversed just one battery you would only have 12 volts. The reversed battery will cancel one of the two other batteries only leaving one to provide power.
For a little more info. Those DC contactors also have blowout coils behind the stationary contact that when the contacts open magnetically push the arc up into the arc shute and off of the contacts to reduce the burning of the contacts. Great vid I can't wait to see if it starts.
Matthew I have huge respect for all you have learned and done in that steel mill. Its a tough, unforgiving environment. Brian
Yay! Keep up the great work!!
Got some good vibes as to what will happen when you try to fire her over but won't voice them quite yet as not to call down Mr. Murphy.
Congrat's on the turn over! Can't wait to see the maiden voyage down the East Terminal under her own power.
Normally when you go to higher voltage, you need to change the voltage regulator and the alternator
The alternator has a built in voltage regulator and puts out 34 volts to charge the 32 volt battery array.
The 2nd voltage regulator is to drop the 36 volts, which will actually be 38 volts, down to 34 volts
It is easy enough to add one and replace the alternator.
You should have a diode after the alternator so when you are checking alternator voltage you get the voltage from the alternator, not the battery
Normally you can't charge 36 volts using a 34 volt alternator
Some times there is no governor and a 34 volt alternator can go up to 36, or 38
Usually if the batteries are really dead the alternator will put out 6 volts above the baseline voltage
A 12 volt battery can take 18 volts for a short time
You are wrong on the charging Voltage for a 32VDC nominal system. Lead-acid batteries charge at 2.4 to 2.5 Vols per cell in normal use. A 32Volt Nominal system will output 38.4 Volts and top out at 40 Volts. A 36 Volt nominal string will charge at 43 Volts to 45Volts. So while it won't fully charge the batteries, the 36Volts of batteries won't hurt the system either as they will be below what the system can handle. The 3 12VDC batteries at rest should read 38.4 which is the low end of charging for a 32VDC system.
@@gravelydon7072 YOU are absolutely correct!
It looks promising, but, may I suggest a leakdown test with mineral oil smoke?
Im surprised the battery terminal lead connectors are the same size, aren't the negative terminal smaller than the positive?
Eagerly awaiting hearing those engines rumble to life.
I would make a riser for the bottom of that battery box to use those short leads
Can't wait to hear those things fire up!
Great video!
Good stuff, we're one step closer to firing it up.
Exide makes 4 cell 8v batteries. Another option is 8v batteries sold for tractor use. Attempting to charge a 36v battery with a 32v system probably won't work. Additionally, if changing the system voltage to 36v the contactor coil should be as well. Low duty ones like for engine start could survive but constant duty ones might overheat.
That's a concern of mine also. The voltage that the alternators produce may only be 32 volts and that will not charge the 36 volt system. They may have to swap out the alternators to 36 volt alternators on both engines. I'm hoping the best for Brian and Gramm, I think they have what it takes to make this work.
I was not clear, is the red power disconnect button in the cab? Perhaps they liked the idea of killing the power from the cab just in case.
@ roughly the 6.00 mark, you comment on the cables being too short.
i may be wrong, but it looks to me as if there is a ledge around the inside of the box, at roughly the height of the batteries.
maybe there is supposed to be a shelf? on the ledge and the batteries sit on the shelf, thereby making the cables the right length.
possibly saving the area under the batteries for some kind of storage. tools? oil? filters? "stuff"?
maybe?
there is certainly enough space in that compartment for the batteries to rid a foot or more higher.
you do not know how bad i wanna be there helping.
keep on keepin' on my friend.
I live down near waverly Ohio!! You was talking about the area called Greg’s hill. The DT&I also came in that area
If you have cold Weather starting problems, 3 more 12 volt batteries would likely help for starting these diesels. Three groups of two in parallel, then the three groups in series, would be the best way to do this.
Love the engine. Wonder when your logo goes on. Do you sell t shirts?
It will start!!
Very cool! Looking forward to that engine firing up!
The beast will be awoken
Vol Irish Yep, and we haven't talked about it yet but this is the locomotives birth month! 65 years old this month! Lets get a cake!! Brian
I suggest when you go to start it for the first time get a can of ether or 2. When I had to rebuild a Cummins in class it came in handy for its start up. Note spray the can into the air intake while trying to crank it.
As Peg from Ziptiesandbiasplies says Cosby in a can
Ether can damage diesel engines
Cool video. Getting there. 👍👍👍❤️
Is there a compression relief on those old Cummins engines? They seemed to roll over real smooth and easy.
I dont know: batteries and connections
I do know: cool railroad videos and nice father/son team
Cant wait to hear it snort. They spin easy, looking good!
Oh yeah!
PS its good practice to always connect the Ground last, in case you slip with the ratchet/spanner/wrench
Wayne Excellent point. Brian
I would not keep trying the battery if you think it's reversed you might do some damage to other things linked to the battery.
Also make sure that any terminals fixed to a secure point e.g. side of the battery box and that especially the starter cable gauges are much bigger than you need as it will reduce the voltage drop from the batteries to the starter motor and the positive cables should be red, negative black.
Where cables rub on metal or go through a hole the need clamping to stop rubbing and cutting into the cable or cables, through holes a grommet or other method of cables being compromised.
Labeling also helps in fault finding.
HAHA!! Love this video and the education on series versus parallel battery connections. BUT.. you're such a TEASE! Seeing and hearing the engine roll over, you just wanna hear it START!! I can't wait to see and hear those twin Cummins HUM!
Just kidding (kinda) about being a tease... kinda.
I think you guys bought a REAL nice locomotive. The internals are in great shape. Now….. on to the paint shop.
We agree!
I cannot wait to see this old gal. Up and running again.
Every time you mention White Castle, I laugh. I need to go there now that I'm back in Michigan.
Wish we had some out in Oregon.. I remember the small burgers well, very tasty.
I vote Yes, it'll run! I mean, there isn't even a tree growing through it, so can't have been neglected like one of those ancient drag lines I've seen people revive.
Odd but #2 did not turn over like 1 . Just something I could hear 👂 . Awesome video tho .
finally, the video I was waiting for. youtube did not notify me tho
edit: not started yet lol still waiting I guess. cant wait though!
Parallel is needed in cold weather because the batteries give a lot less amps the colder it gets
"batteries give a lot less amps the colder it gets." That much is true.
Would be visually interesting to see that arc in slow motion...
Do you not have a multi-meter?
Might want to raise the batteries up and install on a shelf then have some storage below…
Not much use of color coding wiring loom between engine bay & battery box ?
Like the pace of explanation, just right !
😎👍👌😷
I found a ESSCO track blower sitting around that you may be interested in.
I thought we were getting the test run this weekend! @13:02
I would have switched around the cables in the cab, then, the labels in the box would be correct.
Why didn't you use Volt Ohm meter to check continuity of the cables without following the cable by hand ?
Always put your positive cables on first and then the negative when hooking up batteries. Do the reverse when disconnecting.
I thought that too! Probably didn't have a VOM with him.
You sorta have the idea, but you are wrong in your terminology. The rule to follow is "Always disconnect the GROUND cable first and the HOT cable last when removing the battery cables" and "Always connect the HOT cable first and the GROUND cable last when connecting the battery cables". Using terms POSITIVE and NEGATIVE when stating the safe SEQUENCE of action is wrong, because it does not take into consideration whether the vehicle at hand is positive or negative ground. So it is safer to just use the terms HOT or GROUND, and yes you should understand which is the ground and hot before you touch anything no matter what you are dealing with.
@@larrywalker7759 My terminology is correct Negative is ground and Positive is hot.
Please read what I posted. Removing a battery, Negative cable first then Positive and do the reverse when installing.
@@RichieCat4223 EXCEPT it has already been stated that this locomotive battery system is configured as a POSITIVE GROUND. Therefore, when removing a battery in THIS system, disconnect the POSITIVE (ground) first and the NEGATIVE (hot) last. Reverse the steps for installation. The reason that the words "ground" and "hot" are used instead of "positive and negative" in the safety procedure is so that no matter which type system you are working on, you will still be doing it safely. And I did read what you posted.....I read it several times before I posted my clarifying explanation.
Yes, it is true that "most" automobiles in use today have negative ground systems, and on those your substituting "negative and positive" for the terms "ground and hot" would provide the correct sequence of action for safe battery install/remove, but on this locomotive and any other positive ground system those terms will cause an unsafe procedure to be carried out. There is no written rule or standard that requires negative to be ground and positive to be hot and there never was such a standard. It is the obligation of the person working on the vehicle to identify the type of system the vehicle is configured with and adapt the safe battery handling procedure to the system, not naively cling to the words "positive" and "negative".
Sorry but I would have liked to know if the meter actually went the right way before operating anything else.
Stop in Chillicothe (my home town) and get some Crispie Creme donuts. That’s right, with a C, not a K. Best around since 1929. Great coffee, too.
Waverly had 3 railroads until the DT&I/GTW pulled out in the 80’s.
Have faith...you have Cummins power. It will start.
No East Terminal Rail Road coffee cup??