I bought and painted two armies of Heroics & Ros tanks & figures nearly 45 years ago. Haven’t used them even once! They’re just too absurdly small to take seriously. Much prefer 15mm and 20mm at which point you can actually paint proper uniforms on your men.
@@TheAxebeard It depends on the thickness of the acetate and the glue you use. My main problem is that a lot of acetate is quite thin, 100 micron, typically for printing. Some acetate sold in craft shops is thicker and I seek out that. Also superglue is great for this if you are not allergic.
You’ve done exceptional work here. I’m loving every one of these Crossfire videos. I play in 20mm (chiefly Pacific War), but I think what you are doing with 6mm is great. Your table in the battle reports always draws me in. Thank you for your enthusiasm and supporting CF!
@@brettsimpson1505 Of course, the only changes I play with for AFVs is to allow them up to 3 activations per initiative. An activation can include moving, turning the turret and firing all weapons (firing multiple weapons is treated just like a fire group action) I generally allow tanks 2 activations, fast tanks and wheeled vehicles 3 activations, and slow tanks 1. So a tiger 1 would have 1 activation, a Panzer IV 2 activations, and a scout car 3. Everything else is rules as written, for things like trucks and universal carriers that don't have stats, I just treat them like a vehicle with no armour that can be attacked by infantry. A hit from a HE or AP round will destroy them, and they can be pinned and suppressed the same way as an infantry unit. Those simple changes seem to make armour more of a viable option without complicating anything.
@@TheTabletopGamer : That sounds like a good way to do it. I’m planning on running the Raid using my Pacific War kit, as I have Platoon Forward. I’ll use the same attacking force you used (but with Diggers instead of Tommies) and the defenders will be Japanese.
I have done a lot in 6mm, but because I am into set-piece battles, battalion/regiment/brigade scale, it gets too expensive. I only just realised that there is a great range of 3mm now available which I never knew about. So I am now migrating to 3mm.
What I always struggled with in 6mm was how to interact with the buildings since most of the time they can enter 6mm buildings. I went back and took a look at your vid and see you do what I do and that is just place them on the building.
When playing 6mm, I've always made my buildings from card with a foam square inside the base to lend structure, as it's cheaper and less weighty. I'll then place something like a magnet or old piece of metal to weight it down. One upside of this is that I can produce them with removable rooves - maybe give it a try if you've got the time.
Id love to see you do some WW2 Crossfire with plastic mesh. Ive been messing with it some, mounting them on hole punched playing cards for bases. Ill probably got with wood blocks or foamcore cut to rough shapes.
H&R are best for infantry, artillery and aircraft. GHQ are best for AFV's. As for trucks and soft skinned vehicles both have their advantages and disadvantages. I must admit normally using 3cm square bases, this looks like 2 cm square bases which is a good solution if your playing area is small and a sweet spot for crossfire.
In terms of "buildings" in small scales (3mm Pico Armor, etc.) consider houses and hotels out of used Monopoly games in Thrift shops ? In terms of buildings (6mm GHQ, C-in-C, A&A plastic, etc.) consider plastic buildings from LIFE games from Thrift stores ? There are a few versions of the game with white plastic buildings that can be painted various color (houses, churches, governmental, etc.) from various versions ( Simpsons, Regular version, newer version, even a Halloween version with GRAY buildings) - From the various versions there is quite a MIX of designs a enough differences to do towns and villages etc. ! Give it thought
In Crossfire there are a couple specialist units if you want to go that route. I find 6mm figures are hard to distinguish. Even in your example here. The squad vs platoon commander vs company commander is still doable if you stick with 3 figs, 1 fig and 2 figs for each base. But the spotters and HMG are already difficult. How do you distinguish SMGs and Engineers?
I don't know about easiest, but Crossfire is quite a simple ruleset once you've played your first game - I certainly find it makes playing solo fast and fun.
Could you pin the links from where you buy stuf, i mean the miniatures, im from south America and tho get things all the way down here its expensive, so i really love the idea of crossfire in 6mm, im thinking about buying a bunch minis and have them shipped all together... Ty for the awesome Video
Hi, thanks very much for the comment, I've added the link to the models I use in the description but here's the link again www.heroicsandros.co.uk/shop/WW2-c39342038 Depending on how much shipping is to South America it might be cheaper to buy from GHQ, as I said in the video they're really nice models but quite expensive www.ghqmodels.com/collections/wwii-1-285-6mm-scale-1
I have been using my Heroics and Ros stuff for about 45 years now
They're great minis
I bought and painted two armies of Heroics & Ros tanks & figures nearly 45 years ago. Haven’t used them even once! They’re just too absurdly small to take seriously.
Much prefer 15mm and 20mm at which point you can actually paint proper uniforms on your men.
I make bases from acetate sheet (OHP blanks). These are transparent, so the underlying 'ground' shows through. Of course they are extremely cheap!
Are they sturdy?
@@TheAxebeard It depends on the thickness of the acetate and the glue you use. My main problem is that a lot of acetate is quite thin, 100 micron, typically for printing. Some acetate sold in craft shops is thicker and I seek out that. Also superglue is great for this if you are not allergic.
@@TheAxebeard I just checked. I'm using 250 micron thickness.
You’ve done exceptional work here. I’m loving every one of these Crossfire videos. I play in 20mm (chiefly Pacific War), but I think what you are doing with 6mm is great. Your table in the battle reports always draws me in. Thank you for your enthusiasm and supporting CF!
Thanks, I appreciate it!
@@TheTabletopGamer : Could you please share your thoughts on AFVs in Crossfire? How you use them, and any house-rules.
@@brettsimpson1505 Of course, the only changes I play with for AFVs is to allow them up to 3 activations per initiative. An activation can include moving, turning the turret and firing all weapons (firing multiple weapons is treated just like a fire group action) I generally allow tanks 2 activations, fast tanks and wheeled vehicles 3 activations, and slow tanks 1.
So a tiger 1 would have 1 activation, a Panzer IV 2 activations, and a scout car 3.
Everything else is rules as written, for things like trucks and universal carriers that don't have stats, I just treat them like a vehicle with no armour that can be attacked by infantry. A hit from a HE or AP round will destroy them, and they can be pinned and suppressed the same way as an infantry unit.
Those simple changes seem to make armour more of a viable option without complicating anything.
@@TheTabletopGamer : That sounds like a good way to do it. I’m planning on running the Raid using my Pacific War kit, as I have Platoon Forward. I’ll use the same attacking force you used (but with Diggers instead of Tommies) and the defenders will be Japanese.
@@brettsimpson1505 That sounds great, let us know how you get on, and good luck!
I drew out my playfields on cardstock paper. Same scenario,green for hay,etc. nice video
Yes the video i have been waiting for
Can't wait for the next crossfire campaign vid
Thank you for the comment!
What bases do you use for your plastic mesh figures
@@CivilWar-on-Sunday For my American Civil War armies I use 60mm X 30mm 2mm MDF bases, and for my samurai I use 30mm X 15mm 2mm MDF
I have done a lot in 6mm, but because I am into set-piece battles, battalion/regiment/brigade scale, it gets too expensive. I only just realised that there is a great range of 3mm now available which I never knew about. So I am now migrating to 3mm.
I've tried 2mm irregular miniatures before for the American Civil War, it's a good scale for the bigger battles!
Can I also recommend "Scotia Micromodels" from Scotia-Grendel. They are similar good value.
What I always struggled with in 6mm was how to interact with the buildings since most of the time they can enter 6mm buildings.
I went back and took a look at your vid and see you do what I do and that is just place them on the building.
Yep that's the easiest way I think, if they won't sit on top then I'll lean them up against it to show they're inside.
When playing 6mm, I've always made my buildings from card with a foam square inside the base to lend structure, as it's cheaper and less weighty. I'll then place something like a magnet or old piece of metal to weight it down. One upside of this is that I can produce them with removable rooves - maybe give it a try if you've got the time.
Fantastic overview
Thanks, I appreciate it a lot!
Id love to see you do some WW2 Crossfire with plastic mesh. Ive been messing with it some, mounting them on hole punched playing cards for bases. Ill probably got with wood blocks or foamcore cut to rough shapes.
H&R are best for infantry, artillery and aircraft. GHQ are best for AFV's. As for trucks and soft skinned vehicles both have their advantages and disadvantages. I must admit normally using 3cm square bases, this looks like 2 cm square bases which is a good solution if your playing area is small and a sweet spot for crossfire.
Great video, how do you do your hills?
In terms of "buildings" in small scales (3mm Pico Armor, etc.) consider houses and hotels out of used Monopoly games in Thrift shops ? In terms of buildings (6mm GHQ, C-in-C, A&A plastic, etc.) consider plastic buildings from LIFE games from Thrift stores ? There are a few versions of the game with white plastic buildings that can be painted various color (houses, churches, governmental, etc.) from various versions ( Simpsons, Regular version, newer version, even a Halloween version with GRAY buildings) - From the various versions there is quite a MIX of designs a enough differences to do towns and villages etc. ! Give it thought
In Crossfire there are a couple specialist units if you want to go that route. I find 6mm figures are hard to distinguish. Even in your example here. The squad vs platoon commander vs company commander is still doable if you stick with 3 figs, 1 fig and 2 figs for each base. But the spotters and HMG are already difficult. How do you distinguish SMGs and Engineers?
@@ruolbu apologies for the super late reply! I would go with additional coloured dots, maybe yellow for engineers and blue for SMGs for example
Love this!
Easiest solo ww2 game?
I don't know about easiest, but Crossfire is quite a simple ruleset once you've played your first game - I certainly find it makes playing solo fast and fun.
Ty, this video changed my ability to almost unlimited maps.....buildings?
How do we use plastic mesh to make ww2 armies
Great video!
Could you pin the links from where you buy stuf, i mean the miniatures, im from south America and tho get things all the way down here its expensive, so i really love the idea of crossfire in 6mm, im thinking about buying a bunch minis and have them shipped all together... Ty for the awesome Video
Hi, thanks very much for the comment, I've added the link to the models I use in the description but here's the link again www.heroicsandros.co.uk/shop/WW2-c39342038
Depending on how much shipping is to South America it might be cheaper to buy from GHQ, as I said in the video they're really nice models but quite expensive www.ghqmodels.com/collections/wwii-1-285-6mm-scale-1
Is there a way to make say tanks. Tanks for ww2 up to say warhammer 40k?