Thanks so much for the video. I have a DT Swiss 350 that came on a used bike. When I went to change the cassette, the hub came apart and I had parts all over the floor! Nice to see the correct way they re-assemble. I ended up using Jet Lube Marine multipose grease and it seems to be working fine. Water resistant, thick and military grade. I really appreciate the instruction and the jazz was a nice touch.
Thanks! Looked for a Reynolds hub video and realized Reynolds used a DT hub. Adding Reynolds Aero 58 to the meta could be helpful to many. I sincerely appreciate the video.
Thank you very much! I’ve thought about it, a lot of major brands use dt Swiss internals, but there’s also a lot cases where they change the hub on the same wheel model from year to year, that makes it a bit hard to keep up and provide accurate information. The last thing I want is for someone thinking they have a dt ratchet, opening it up for the first time and have pawls or springs flying all over the place. Add to that, dt Swiss hade pretty much replaced the ratchet system you see in this video with the new EXP ratchet on current wheels. I appreciate the suggestion non the less! Cheers!
Everything I've watched and read says use very little grease on this, leaving me think a thin film will only work to avoid slipping. This vid shows way more grease than I was taught. I like the amount used in this vid cause my hub runs much quieter and works great!
Your instructions are clear and concise: I took the hub apart, cleaned and re-lubed everything, and put it back together again in less than an hour, even though I'd never done it before. The hub and cassette were so disgusting that I had trouble getting the cassette off of the hub body, but now everything moves like new. Thanks for posting this!
This video saved me from losing my mind!! I kept having what I thought was chain slip from a worn chain. Changed my chain, still had issues. So, I thought and thought and remembered I'd cleaned and lubed my hub recently. Re-watched this video, took the cassette off, traced backwards and realized that I'd put the first spring in the wrong way round. As a result, I think the ratchet rings were not holding together tightly' Thanks again, this video helped me so much!!!
The springs are fiddly. I have a DT Swiss 350 hub and a DTS knockoff. I wanted to change the ratchets (18 and 36) between hubs, and while the ratchets could be exchanged with no problem, the springs would not work when on the "wrong" hub.
Encountered the problem of a really tight / stuck end cap today on my DT 240 mountain bike wheel. The solution was a pair of smooth jaw pliers - Knipex makes a good set - these have no serrations in the jaws of the pliers so they don’t marr the end cap. You just grip it and gently pull straight up and off it comes. No vise, no sprays, no damage, and takes about 15 seconds to remove the cap. Cheers
Important to note that if you service your hub and you cannot get it to go back together (it is jamming when you put the endcaps back on, or tightening your axle or skewer) then it is because these sensitive coil springs are overlapping inside the freehub. You have to make sure the coils compress straight and there are no overlaps!
this is what my dt 350 hubs is happening. when I tighten the axle it's jamming the ratchet not sure if it's the freehub has issue. i;ll check the coil springs if it's overlapping. thanks man
I just experienced this literally yesterday. Took it apart and placed everything nicely in. Then wheb tightening the axle i noticed some slight abnormal resistance but i decided to just tighten it all the way. Lo and behold when i tried pedaling using my hands to check, it actually jammed up. Had a big problem gettingg the freehub w cassette off but with alil bit of elbow grease and perserverance it came out. One end of the coil spring got lodged in between on of the ratchet and it caused the spring to bend out of shape. Phew.
Thank you for this (and the soothing music), I invested in a 6 bolt 350 thru-axle hub for the quiet ratcheting so I could ride off-road without always disturbing/startling wildlife. Simplified service guides just encourage me to pop the seals at the first sign of new noise, or better yet, to schedule service based on travels.😊
Hi, one simple thing I missed in the video and spent 2 hours trying to figure out whats wrong. In video it doesnt see very clearly and there was no instruction how to place ratchets. I put them together randomly and placed in. But they must go that both of their teeths are facing, otherwise free hub will rotate both sides... When I put everything together including cassete, i couldnt tighten it, because it was rotating both sides. I reasembled and assembled everything few times figuring whats wrong 😂 and only after few tries i figured out about this ratchets that was placed wrong way. Its very nice and clear video, just please add this small step so other noob like me wont screw up😅 thanks!
Thank you for this thouroughly detailed & easy to follow video! I used even more grease because I wanted a quiter hub and it's working splendid. Don't see any reason why using "too much" grease could be bad.
My dt 350 hub fell apart (with the casette still on the hub), when I put tubeless milk in my tire and started to shake it as per usual :D used the opportunity to clean it
Same here while replacing the 10 speed cassette. Time to clean and finally use my little jar of special grease that I kept for just in case. I was fun to put it together, shiny like new.
Excellent, how about the other side bearing please? Do you know if same for Axis Elite wheels, hub looks same? Thanks again.. only slight niggle for me would be the lift music! 👍
Thx so much for this video. I followed its instructions closely and my hub is now so much quieter. However, I now have the problem that my pedals spin backwards when I coast. Does anyone know what I may have done wrong? I should note that I used all-purpose bike grease rather than the DT Swiss "special grease."
Very informative video. DT swiss grease is very expensive, besides hard to find. What kind of grease was it so called normal? I used shimano special grease, but it was very sticky and did not do the job.
I use Phil Woods Hydrophobic grease. Not too much. A light film on the inner hub and on the ratchet teeth. This grease is not heavy or sticky so the teeth will be able to squeeze it out. Make sure the teeth are really clean and nothing in the valleys, so you have good engagement.
you can remove free hub without disassembling cassette. also you can upgrade star ratchets from stock 18t to 36t or 54t very easily by replacing the two star ratchet gears. and I second - just a thin coat of dt swiss grease
I have the GR1600 wheelset and the freehub comes loose very easy, no force is needed to pull off the freehub. Everything is assembled exactly as yours. Is this safe and normal? Greeting from Malmö 😊
I just cleaned and greased mine using Phil Woods hydrophobic grease. Probably a tiny bit much as off the bike before being compressed by the end cap and skewer it did slip a few times but once on the bike and then road tested it wasn't slipping. I think in short order if you only use a little much it will get compressed out of the way of the teeth but if it's (grease) packed in there with nowhere to go I think the problem will remain. Oh and I also apply a small amount on the end cap and you put together dry. If nothing else the hydrophobic grease will work to keep out water ingress.
"Phil Woods hydrophobic grease" is nothing more than over priced, repackaged Marine Grease. Grease is OIL + SOAP (Other ingredients), the soap is what 'STICKS' the grease to the surface. Most soaps are hydrophilic (Absorbs water) causing them to get that grey foamy look. Marine grease is oil + lithium complex with anti rust and corrosion additives. Boat trailers that load regularly that don't use marine grease in the wheel bearings....I don't want to be the person driving behind them down the highway. Anything on the transom, bottom gears or internals on a boat, this is the stuff to use. Works @#!%&! great on a bike and isn't over priced, repacked product.
You have to use the DT Swiss grease and special grease they recommend in the technical manual. The viscosity of Phil woods grease is different and you could damage parts in your hub
@@sAmiZZle82 I just did my yearly service on the hub and all is good in there. Wheels are from 2016 with close to 35k miles on them (I avg 5-6k a year). Nothing even looked worn in there. I use slightly lighter film of that grease than I did 5 years ago. The grease is not thick at all.
@@GNX157 ok that's good to hear. I'd be too scared deviating now as a knowledgeable bike mechanic on Cam Nicholl's RUclips channel just reviewed the Extralite Hubs and explicitly stated the more elite a hub is the more fine tuned it is and not to use just any grease due to viscosity being different. But glad to hear you haven't had any issues or safety concerns
Excessive amount of grease on the star ratchets. Swiss recommends a very thin layer on the outside (where the rings engage each other). Also it isn’t necessary to grease the inside of the body or the bearings.
Hello, I have a DT Swiss PR 1400 Dicut 21 Tubeless Ready wheelset, every time that I wash my bike a noise comes up while climbing, apparently the water and degreaser and filtering in the hub and cleaning the grease, can someone please help me to find out the issue?
Hello all, I have a Giant SLR 1 wheelset that uses DT Swiss internals. For some reason, I have lots of drag where my pedals spin when they should be in place and the freewheel should be active. Anyone has any ideas about what might be causing the loss of efficient free spin-freewheeling ratcheting?
I can't guess exactly but it seems your freehub is not free-hubbing! You should take it all apart again then make absolutely sure you put it back together correctly. A commenter above said you have to make sure the springs can compress "without overlapping", so check that too.
Very nice video and explanation. Sorry for my extra noob question but can you please tell me what tools you use at the very end of the video ( 4:39 ) ?
@@ridesofjapan Thank you for the quick reply. I ask you this because i have DT swiss wheels on my gravelbike but the rear wheel axis always comes loose and i don't know what to do to fix it. Kind regards.
Curt Ceunen don’t quite understand what part you are referring to that comes loose. The hub axle itself should never come loose by itself. The freehub body (that the cassette slides onto) can come loose when the wheel is not installed in the bike frame. Best thing might be to take it to you local bike shop if you’re uncertain.
Thanks for the video ;) It is really helpful and easy to understand! Can you help me out with a question about using MTB cassette on road hubs? Do I need any spacers on the hub or it is totally identical with the roadie ones? (I have a DtSwiss PR1400 DiCut DB wheel set) Thanks in advance. Cheers
Woah... no wonder these cost so much... What a refined design!! Do you know if this is the case with 90s era Hugi Hubs??? (The sound here is the same as mine!!) Many thanks!
I have roval c38 wheels with a DT Swiss 350 hub, however when freewheeling the cranks continue to turn and if to pedal backwards the chain will bunch up and almost jump off the front ring...any ideas as to the issue
Inside the hub you should always use DT Swiss special grease. Other greases might work (it has for me in the past) but different viscosity grease could cause problems and if something goes wrong it might void warranty etc. So I definitely recommend sticking with DT Swiss special grease. If you want to grease the freehub for mounting the cassette you can use any assembly grease. (This is not required though, just something I personally always do)
Are you know the wavy spring from tha air chamber of the rockshox fork? You need 2 of these spring each cut in 3 eqaul pieces and lubricate all with WD-40 PTFE Spray. ... NOW you have a loud hub! but more easy rolling i recommend the 18t and not 54t. More teeth is more angle and higher rolling resistent in the freehub.
Richard H one really simple way is to install the cassette, then you can easily grab the back of the biggest cog and pull the freehub off. (I should actually have mentioned this in to video, sorry)
With warranty in mind you should only use the dt Swiss special grease. I’ve found that using more grease on the outside on ratchet rings will quiet things down a bit, but be careful no to use too much as I could interfere with the engagement.
@@ridesofjapan I dont have a dt Swiss hub , I have a Devox RSL3D hub and its way too loud , cant find anywhere to recommend me a way to quiet it down..
I need to replace my hub but there are so many different types. How can i tell which free hub to get as there is nothing written on the current hub apart from 11 Speed road? Thanks.
MA - Michael so you only need to replace the freehub body, not the entire hub (as in relacing the whole wheel). You at least need to know the model of the hub, like in this video it’s dt Swiss 240s. If you have an 11 speed freehub body for that and are using Shimano or SRAM cassettes you would need this www.amazon.com/DT-Swiss-240S-Freehub-Body/dp/B009HGXJ0Q
Presentation is so professional i thought I was watching the official DT Swiss video....
me 2
lolll me 2
you need to see official DT videos :D
Thanks so much for the video. I have a DT Swiss 350 that came on a used bike. When I went to change the cassette, the hub came apart and I had parts all over the floor! Nice to see the correct way they re-assemble. I ended up using Jet Lube Marine multipose grease and it seems to be working fine. Water resistant, thick and military grade. I really appreciate the instruction and the jazz was a nice touch.
I had the same problem, was a bit lost, until I found the video, superb!!
Thanks! Looked for a Reynolds hub video and realized Reynolds used a DT hub. Adding Reynolds Aero 58 to the meta could be helpful to many. I sincerely appreciate the video.
Thank you very much!
I’ve thought about it, a lot of major brands use dt Swiss internals, but there’s also a lot cases where they change the hub on the same wheel model from year to year, that makes it a bit hard to keep up and provide accurate information. The last thing I want is for someone thinking they have a dt ratchet, opening it up for the first time and have pawls or springs flying all over the place.
Add to that, dt Swiss hade pretty much replaced the ratchet system you see in this video with the new EXP ratchet on current wheels.
I appreciate the suggestion non the less!
Cheers!
Everything I've watched and read says use very little grease on this, leaving me think a thin film will only work to avoid slipping. This vid shows way more grease than I was taught. I like the amount used in this vid cause my hub runs much quieter and works great!
Your instructions are clear and concise: I took the hub apart, cleaned and re-lubed everything, and put it back together again in less than an hour, even though I'd never done it before. The hub and cassette were so disgusting that I had trouble getting the cassette off of the hub body, but now everything moves like new. Thanks for posting this!
This video saved me from losing my mind!! I kept having what I thought was chain slip from a worn chain. Changed my chain, still had issues. So, I thought and thought and remembered I'd cleaned and lubed my hub recently. Re-watched this video, took the cassette off, traced backwards and realized that I'd put the first spring in the wrong way round. As a result, I think the ratchet rings were not holding together tightly' Thanks again, this video helped me so much!!!
The springs are fiddly. I have a DT Swiss 350 hub and a DTS knockoff. I wanted to change the ratchets (18 and 36) between hubs, and while the ratchets could be exchanged with no problem, the springs would not work when on the "wrong" hub.
Encountered the problem of a really tight / stuck end cap today on my DT 240 mountain bike wheel. The solution was a pair of smooth jaw pliers - Knipex makes a good set - these have no serrations in the jaws of the pliers so they don’t marr the end cap. You just grip it and gently pull straight up and off it comes. No vise, no sprays, no damage, and takes about 15 seconds to remove the cap. Cheers
Important to note that if you service your hub and you cannot get it to go back together (it is jamming when you put the endcaps back on, or tightening your axle or skewer) then it is because these sensitive coil springs are overlapping inside the freehub. You have to make sure the coils compress straight and there are no overlaps!
this is what my dt 350 hubs is happening. when I tighten the axle it's jamming the ratchet not sure if it's the freehub has issue. i;ll check the coil springs if it's overlapping. thanks man
I just experienced this literally yesterday. Took it apart and placed everything nicely in. Then wheb tightening the axle i noticed some slight abnormal resistance but i decided to just tighten it all the way. Lo and behold when i tried pedaling using my hands to check, it actually jammed up. Had a big problem gettingg the freehub w cassette off but with alil bit of elbow grease and perserverance it came out. One end of the coil spring got lodged in between on of the ratchet and it caused the spring to bend out of shape. Phew.
I love this video, didn't even know you can maintain those and even make them more quieter! Thanks a lot!
Thank you for this (and the soothing music), I invested in a 6 bolt 350 thru-axle hub for the quiet ratcheting so I could ride off-road without always disturbing/startling wildlife. Simplified service guides just encourage me to pop the seals at the first sign of new noise, or better yet, to schedule service based on travels.😊
Mechanical David I guess you don’t have bears and stuff around. Nice to have some sound kind of like riding with bells.
I have no dt hub wheels, but this video is much satisfying.
Great video- completed an upgrade to a 34T this evening.
Hey RoJ. Loyal follower here. I finally got DTSwiss wheels/hubs and this video proved very useful. Piece of piss. Thanks, SK20.
Will come in handy when servicing some DT 350's. Thanks!
thank you
japan made video + its' love of jazz music = the best video
Hi, one simple thing I missed in the video and spent 2 hours trying to figure out whats wrong. In video it doesnt see very clearly and there was no instruction how to place ratchets. I put them together randomly and placed in. But they must go that both of their teeths are facing, otherwise free hub will rotate both sides... When I put everything together including cassete, i couldnt tighten it, because it was rotating both sides. I reasembled and assembled everything few times figuring whats wrong 😂 and only after few tries i figured out about this ratchets that was placed wrong way. Its very nice and clear video, just please add this small step so other noob like me wont screw up😅 thanks!
Thank you for this thouroughly detailed & easy to follow video!
I used even more grease because I wanted a quiter hub and it's working splendid. Don't see any reason why using "too much" grease could be bad.
Too much grease can prevent the pawls/star ratchet (depending on your freehub mechanism) from engaging completely and risk slipping.
@@yonglingng5640 i just found this out the hard way :D
Great video, as good as a DT Swiss one but no special tools to buy...
Curious to know what brought you to Japan….and what your profession is.
My dt 350 hub fell apart (with the casette still on the hub), when I put tubeless milk in my tire and started to shake it as per usual :D
used the opportunity to clean it
this happened to me and my heart almost felt when I saw the axle wasn't going in, had to bash it with lots of force and now it's good as new
Same here while replacing the 10 speed cassette. Time to clean and finally use my little jar of special grease that I kept for just in case. I was fun to put it together, shiny like new.
Nice tutorial with thanks. Now I can service [DIY] my DT Swiss 350🙂👍
Great vid. I followed these tips to service mine last night....only used a small amount of grease and its almost too loud...
Great video and excellent choice of music!
Very helpful tutorial! Either that or I just enjoy watching you maintain and your bike 🤗... something about it is very satisfying ...
You don t have to take of the gears... just pull on the largest and the freehub is open
knock0ut1981 that is correct 👍
ÿou mean the casette..
Excellent, how about the other side bearing please?
Do you know if same for Axis Elite wheels, hub looks same? Thanks again.. only slight niggle for me would be the lift music! 👍
Thx so much for this video. I followed its instructions closely and my hub is now so much quieter. However, I now have the problem that my pedals spin backwards when I coast. Does anyone know what I may have done wrong? I should note that I used all-purpose bike grease rather than the DT Swiss "special grease."
Very informative video. DT swiss grease is very expensive, besides hard to find. What kind of grease was it so called normal? I used shimano special grease, but it was very sticky and did not do the job.
I use Phil Woods Hydrophobic grease. Not too much. A light film on the inner hub and on the ratchet teeth. This grease is not heavy or sticky so the teeth will be able to squeeze it out. Make sure the teeth are really clean and nothing in the valleys, so you have good engagement.
Thanks for the video. Successfully silenced a creak.
May have just saved me alot in labour !
Superb. Exactly what I needed to know. Thanks.
Great tutorial video, would you mind creating the same for front wheel bearing please. Thanks
you can remove free hub without disassembling cassette. also you can upgrade star ratchets from stock 18t to 36t or 54t very easily by replacing the two star ratchet gears. and I second - just a thin coat of dt swiss grease
if i dont have dt swiss grease, can i use lithium grease? thank you
@@adventurekol no, never use Lithium grease, it will clog the springs so ratchets won’t engage. That happened in my Roval Alpinist rear wheel.
I have the GR1600 wheelset and the freehub comes loose very easy, no force is needed to pull off the freehub. Everything is assembled exactly as yours. Is this safe and normal? Greeting from Malmö 😊
I just cleaned and greased mine using Phil Woods hydrophobic grease. Probably a tiny bit much as off the bike before being compressed by the end cap and skewer it did slip a few times but once on the bike and then road tested it wasn't slipping. I think in short order if you only use a little much it will get compressed out of the way of the teeth but if it's (grease) packed in there with nowhere to go I think the problem will remain. Oh and I also apply a small amount on the end cap and you put together dry. If nothing else the hydrophobic grease will work to keep out water ingress.
+GNX157 good point! Will try it next time!
"Phil Woods hydrophobic grease" is nothing more than over priced, repackaged Marine Grease.
Grease is OIL + SOAP (Other ingredients), the soap is what 'STICKS' the grease to the surface.
Most soaps are hydrophilic (Absorbs water) causing them to get that grey foamy look.
Marine grease is oil + lithium complex with anti rust and corrosion additives.
Boat trailers that load regularly that don't use marine grease in the wheel bearings....I don't want to be the person driving behind them down the highway.
Anything on the transom, bottom gears or internals on a boat, this is the stuff to use.
Works @#!%&! great on a bike and isn't over priced, repacked product.
You have to use the DT Swiss grease and special grease they recommend in the technical manual. The viscosity of Phil woods grease is different and you could damage parts in your hub
@@sAmiZZle82 I just did my yearly service on the hub and all is good in there. Wheels are from 2016 with close to 35k miles on them (I avg 5-6k a year). Nothing even looked worn in there. I use slightly lighter film of that grease than I did 5 years ago. The grease is not thick at all.
@@GNX157 ok that's good to hear. I'd be too scared deviating now as a knowledgeable bike mechanic on Cam Nicholl's RUclips channel just reviewed the Extralite Hubs and explicitly stated the more elite a hub is the more fine tuned it is and not to use just any grease due to viscosity being different. But glad to hear you haven't had any issues or safety concerns
I remember in the old days they used to tell you if the bearings where destroyed to just replace them with a thick rubber hose and lots of grease.
💪
Dude, thank you so much for this video.
No grease on aluminium hub ( outside ). Metal hub , yes. Read the recommandation Dtswiss
Great content!! Can you clarify if the DT swiss ARC 1450 dicut comes with ceramic bearings?
Don't know which hub that set comes with, but as long at it's not a 180 hub is most likely not ceramic bearings
What is the name of the musical number and who performed it - it's SO nice!
George Street Shuffle
Why on earth do I want to remove the incredible cool freehubsound??
Is that by any chance a “Save the Rim Brake” t- shirt you are using to clean the grease off the parts? Mark is looking for his.
Excessive amount of grease on the star ratchets. Swiss recommends a very thin layer on the outside (where the rings engage each other). Also it isn’t necessary to grease the inside of the body or the bearings.
It may not be necessary, but won't it help keep moisture out of the bearings?
Great, thanks for info!
Love your work!
Hey. Just to add one important step. You forgot to seal the hub by putting on grease on the endcap (you have to use another grease here).
Great vid helped me loads 👍
How do you you know when it’s time to replace ratchet? Any wear indication to look for.Thanks for the video.
With proper maintenance it will last many many years!
But you should be able to see if the ratchet are worn down. I have yet to see one myself though.
@@ridesofjapan thanks
God I'm loving that background music!
Nice video :-)
Half expected Snoopy and Woodstock to appear.
Congratulation for video. Can you recomendation a alternative grease?
Hello, I have a DT Swiss PR 1400 Dicut 21 Tubeless Ready wheelset, every time that I wash my bike a noise comes up while climbing, apparently the water and degreaser and filtering in the hub and cleaning the grease, can someone please help me to find out the issue?
Hello all, I have a Giant SLR 1 wheelset that uses DT Swiss internals. For some reason, I have lots of drag where my pedals spin when they should be in place and the freewheel should be active. Anyone has any ideas about what might be causing the loss of efficient free spin-freewheeling ratcheting?
Is it fine to use lithium grease on dt Swiss ratchet?
I did this and now my cranks keep spinning even once I've stopped pedalling. Where did I go wrong?
I can't guess exactly but it seems your freehub is not free-hubbing! You should take it all apart again then make absolutely sure you put it back together correctly. A commenter above said you have to make sure the springs can compress "without overlapping", so check that too.
Brilliant easy to follow instructions, music a bit cheesy but great! This is tomorrow's Job now as mine was stuck fast earlier to the cassette 🙈
About point 4: there is no way to pull out second ring of ratched ....... any suggestion ? Thank you
Re you sure you don't have the Ratchet EXP hub? (That's the newer version, the hub in this video is the older DT ratchet system)
How often do you have to do this? 1000 miles?
WOW~~ DETAIL...GOOOOOOOOD JOB~!!!!^^~~~
Very nice video and explanation. Sorry for my extra noob question but can you please tell me what tools you use at the very end of the video ( 4:39 ) ?
Curt Ceunen it’s cassette ring tool, same as use to remove the cassette. (But when removing you also need a chain whip)
@@ridesofjapan Thank you for the quick reply. I ask you this because i have DT swiss wheels on my gravelbike but the rear wheel axis always comes loose and i don't know what to do to fix it. Kind regards.
@@Lepercurtidoo Axis? do you mean the quick release/thru-axle?
@@ridesofjapan Yes, sorry i meant the hub. ( i have quick release indeed)
Curt Ceunen don’t quite understand what part you are referring to that comes loose. The hub axle itself should never come loose by itself. The freehub body (that the cassette slides onto) can come loose when the wheel is not installed in the bike frame.
Best thing might be to take it to you local bike shop if you’re uncertain.
Thanks for the video ;) It is really helpful and easy to understand! Can you help me out with a question about using MTB cassette on road hubs? Do I need any spacers on the hub or it is totally identical with the roadie ones? (I have a DtSwiss PR1400 DiCut DB wheel set) Thanks in advance. Cheers
With a 11speed MTB cassette on a HG road hub you need a 1.85mm spacer.
Awesome video so I subbed!!
Thank you for the classe mate.
Happy pandemy! Be💪.
Woah... no wonder these cost so much... What a refined design!!
Do you know if this is the case with 90s era Hugi Hubs??? (The sound here is the same as mine!!) Many thanks!
I just swapped my Shimano freehub for a SRAM XDR and for some reason the freehub won't spin when I tighten up the axle 🤷🏼 so confused 😭
The end cap is also different depending on freehub body. So for forget to change that as well.
I have roval c38 wheels with a DT Swiss 350 hub, however when freewheeling the cranks continue to turn and if to pedal backwards the chain will bunch up and almost jump off the front ring...any ideas as to the issue
That's a serious issue. The freehub needs a service as per this video. If the bearings themselves are seizing, then they will need replacing as well.
Hola, tienes algún vídeo de cómo cambiar los rodamientos delanteros de un buje Dt swiss 240 mate para una horquilla rockshox rs1? Gracias!
Great vid!
I have a roval x dtswiss on my specialized stumpjumper but the sound has only became more quiet, what should i do
Is this the star ratchet hub or exp? I assume the former due to the age of the video? Thanks.
@@KOL630 it’s the older star ratchet. The exp version you can watch here: ruclips.net/video/eA0uU_Rstd4/видео.html
You saved my day. Thx
Man, my end cap is threaded and when i put it back on the free hub barely spins, any advice?
I have end float in mine …is that normal ?
good vid, are the two springs identical?
Tiny Adventures By Bike yes they are.
Cheers!
I have the Bontrager XXX wheels which say they have DT Swiss star ratchet internals. should this guide work for them?
Yep, should work fine!
what kind of grease should we use for the hub? i used the tf2 (the one used for the cassette at the end of the vid). is it safe?
Inside the hub you should always use DT Swiss special grease. Other greases might work (it has for me in the past) but different viscosity grease could cause problems and if something goes wrong it might void warranty etc.
So I definitely recommend sticking with DT Swiss special grease.
If you want to grease the freehub for mounting the cassette you can use any assembly grease. (This is not required though, just something I personally always do)
I wish dt Swiss would just make the drive rings a little bigger so the bearing would pass through to save having to remove them every time.
thanks so much for this. does it matter the orientation of the 2 ratchet rings? it seems the sides aren't symmetrical - one side has ridges
n0twist1 they only fit together in one orientation, so no worries
What type of paste did you apply before putting the cassette back on? Tia’
Just grease
Can I perform the same operations for a freewheel body for dtswiss d1800 spline 23? Thanks
what's up!!! guy! i've thought about changing the grease for hub part.
what are you using, and what recommend for hub?
For DT Swiss you should use DT special grease
How much wight can it hold?
Are you know the wavy spring from tha air chamber of the rockshox fork?
You need 2 of these spring each cut in 3 eqaul pieces and lubricate all with WD-40 PTFE Spray.
... NOW you have a loud hub! but more easy rolling i recommend the 18t and not 54t. More teeth is more angle and higher rolling resistent in the freehub.
Haha, that's a crazy hack for sure! Thanks for tip!
I want my hub quiet though ;)
Top job! What kind of grease is the red coloured grease?
Dt Swiss “special grease” made for their ratchet hubs
@@ridesofjapan thanks! Good to know, I also have ratchet ring system hubs 👌🏻
You can make easy upgrade from 3pawl dt370 to ratchet dt350😊
Hi where can i get the bearings for the freehub body .... ???
Why is there a need to put grease in the cassette body when the cassette is not moving against it?
Anti seize, anti corrosion and allows the cogs to slide perfectly straight when lock ring is being torqued down. But I don’t use that much.
wtf, why do you put grease between freehub and cassette?
Can you help me now? For this wheel? I cant open bearing rear
Do you mean the freehub?
You can leave the cassette on the freehub so you’ll have better grip.
One time at years is ok?
The “bit of elbow grease” at the start isn’t working for me ......... how to safely grab the casette body ?
Richard H one really simple way is to install the cassette, then you can easily grab the back of the biggest cog and pull the freehub off.
(I should actually have mentioned this in to video, sorry)
What kind of grease did you use on outside of the freehub body?
In this video lithium grease, But any general assembly grease (Shimano, parktool etc) does the job.
Hi, the cap seems to be little stuck, any tool? Any advice? Thanks
Raye Khoury you can try keeping the cassette on when pulling the free hub body off. That should give you better grip.
How often do you have to grease your hub?
All depends on how much you ride and in what conditions. But doing this 1 time per season at least and you hubs will thank you for it.
@@ridesofjapan do you know any grease that can make your hub quiet?
With warranty in mind you should only use the dt Swiss special grease.
I’ve found that using more grease on the outside on ratchet rings will quiet things down a bit, but be careful no to use too much as I could interfere with the engagement.
@@ridesofjapan I dont have a dt Swiss hub , I have a Devox RSL3D hub and its way too loud , cant find anywhere to recommend me a way to quiet it down..
@@soulboken4670 sorry no experience with that hub.
What if you want a loud hub sound
Can you tell me how long is the spacer?
I need to replace my hub but there are so many different types. How can i tell which free hub to get as there is nothing written on the current hub apart from 11 Speed road? Thanks.
MA - Michael so you only need to replace the freehub body, not the entire hub (as in relacing the whole wheel).
You at least need to know the model of the hub, like in this video it’s dt Swiss 240s.
If you have an 11 speed freehub body for that and are using Shimano or SRAM cassettes you would need this www.amazon.com/DT-Swiss-240S-Freehub-Body/dp/B009HGXJ0Q
Cheers. That looks exactly like the one i removed. My model hub was the DT Swiss 350.
Is this the same for a 340?
Well done. Thanks for making this.
Cheers!
But i don't want the quiter freehub :( . BTW great tutorial.
Robiovic hehe, then just use a bit less grease 👍
I think I need that new Shimano sylence hub 😅