You are FREAK'IN AWESOME!!! I appreciate the video. I was'nt sure about closing the gap between the spring and chassis. Jack the truck using the frame...man I had a duh moment. Thanks!!!! The tip about using the air hammer was a million bucks also.
This was THE absolute best video on replacing a leaf spring shack. BUT.... it's a lot fricking harder than people think. Two man job for most. When your shackle has separated, the top will smash to the top of the bed, or in my case when through the bed of the truck. Getting access to these bolts with a large impact is impossible. These videos will have their trucks up on a lift. Even when jacked up, I did not have very good room underneath. Maybe an impact "universal swivel" would have helped, but they break easily. Prying the leaf spring down is hard. The bushing was the absolute worst part. Taking out I had to use MAP gas to burn and melt until I could pick it out. Putting in a new one with a C clamp was a b.i.t.c.h. Had to box cutter the end to a sharper point to get initial start. It's okay if you leave a little sticking out because you got the other side covered preventing it to extend further through. Make sure you have a 1/2" Breaker Bar 24-inches. That big newer Milwaukee 1/2" fuel impact still couldn't bust a couple nuts! How the F is that possible? Make sure you have some 2"x2" 1/4" metal plates or similar around to use with the C clamp on the new bushing. One guy refused to replace it in his video, so consider that. Get several thick sturdy long lengths of pipe and various sizes of blocks of wood and planks to wedge when pulling leaf springs down. I did not have an air chisel or sds rotary hammer to remove the rubber bushing. I used MAP gas to burn and it still took time to remove.
Good comment. Just got done changing one on my 04. Took 2 days, broke 2 C clamps, had to grind off the bolt head on the lower bushing to remove it. The worst part was R&R the upper bushing. Had to use a gear puller to install.
Yeah, just did one side yesterday, 9 hrs, 6 smashed knuckles and about half a million curse words later got one side done. Don’t even attempt this job if you don’t have air tools AND a torch AND the room to fit them. This video is somewhat misleading, many rear ends don’t have much room to work.
Good info, thanks! Lots of dirt/rust/sweat involved in replacing the shackle on my '07, but not technically that difficult. An impact wrench, breaker bar, big pry-bar, 3-prong gear puller, air hammer (yea, new tools!), a sawzall and even drilling off the head of one of the old bolts, among other smaller tools and techniques based on youtube examples, were used for removal. Napa's ball joint press, used "creatively" above the frame, greatly aided the install.
Also, important tech tip: Everything needs to be torqued with the suspension loaded with the normal weight of the car/truck (wheels on the ground). Torqueing in the extended position can lead to premature bushing failure.
I had the same duh moment.Putting jack stands under the axles.I figured it out last night to jack it up on the frame to control the alignment but my neighbors wouldn't have appreciated all the noise.I still have to replace the bracket and shackles and the bolt holes where the rivets were don't line up.Back to the smoke wrench to burn new holes in the bracket and frame otherwise using the pre drilled holes will put the bolt too close to the edge at the top of the frame.97 Ford 4.6 4x4 with 5-speed standard single cab XLT.I already did both exhaust manifolds and had to build the broken bolts inside the heads with mig& stick enough to weld nuts on the bolts and got 15 out of 16 out and use Indian head gasket sealer.So far no leak.Only thing I had to remove was the inner fenders.The guy at the parts store said you have to pull the engine to change the exhaust manifolds.damn,other videos had people taking the motor mounts loose and raised the engine.Starting on the body next and then a fresh new paint job.I made the exhaust from 3" stainless_Put a cable and did away with 3 vacuum components to engage the front end.The vacuum moves a lever a half inch.Now I can use low range without having to worry about breaking an axle.
Damn. What a video. Guess I'm buying an air hammer. Versus labor on this job? Might as well get a new toy instead! But this will be my toughest DIY yet. A year ago I was a guy getting suckered by the shops. I finally found my confidence by watching videos like yours. Eventually I just started tearing into shit and working through the challenges. So far I've done alignment, plugs, brakes, various gaskets, throttle body, serpentine belt, transmission filter changes, oil changes, alternators, fuel filters, vapor canisters, vent solenoids, purge valves, inner/outer tie rod ends, control arms, o2 sensors, catalytic converter reconditioning, regrounding with 4 gauge and in the last 2 weeks alone I've changed 2 fuel pumps. I'm feeling pretty good about my newly mechanical self! And rugged ways! Lol.
You don't want to torque down the bolts while it's still in the air. You need to preload them by getting the nuts hand tight then lower the vehicle to ride height and torque them there. Otherwise the bushings will wear out and tear.
Not sure if it was mentioned before but for people DIY'ing this you can torch the leaf spring end to remove the bushing and it can be done with a cheap propane torch, don't need a OxyAcet torch or air hammer.
i know mine is dry rotted and only the passanger side is making noise when it is moved and sounds like it like my tail gate is slamming and the rear is hopping the leaf spring looks fine should i just start with the shackles then if that dont work replace the springs
So my new ones have large gaps around the bolt. I filled it with washers, but the fame mounted end shifts from side to side and pops around turns. The shackle mount on frame isnt flat. How is this moving when the shackles are identical in shape to original
@@appalachiandiy2415 It is strange. The bracket on the frame isnt flat where the shackle mounts. So my shackle can rock a little, side to side because the bolt head is on a slanted surface. I filled the gap from the shackle with a washer, but there is still a little gap. Idk if its the gap thats allowing it to rock or the slanted mount.
@@appalachiandiy2415 I did buy it with a salvaged title. The frame is fine but the leaf spring shackles had been replaced before. I installed the new ones just like the old ones, which turned out to be backwards. The new shackles were different brands but they both were extra large. I also installed the bolts so that they could be pulled out from the outside
Great video. Appalachian DIY so I have to do this for my 99 Dakota...I was going to jack it up and then put on stands using the frame. That relieves the tension on the leaf? My top separated from the bottom like yours so not sure if there really is any tension and in the end I just jack up the rear using diff to bring the bottom closer to the top for bolting. Is that correct? Other side is a different story and they are attached. Since bottom and top are attached, is it still the same process where I have the frame on stands so I can remove the bolts without the leaf spring jumping up through bed once removed? Sorry for the barrage of questions but will be doing this for the first time. I’m going to leave the brackets alone, looks way too rusted in but still there.
Aaron Collins Absolutely! It is a little harder to crawl around underneath but it's doable. The leaf springs are not really under a lot if pressure. Just jack up on the frame(not the axle) and you will release that pressure.
My shackle is rusted out and so is the spot on the frame where new shackle bolts into. It has punched itself up thru bed of truck. I don't know what to do i need to get to work. Still driveable for few weeks?
I drove mine for a couple week like that and it almost went through the bed. felt a little funny too. i would try and replace asap. If you got the tools and know-how you could fab a bracket for the shackle. if not try searching the internet for one to either bolt on or weld on.
Appalachian DIY I was looking at other videos and the white printing is on the other side as well. If it rides fine I guess it’s ok. Was just wondering long term how it will be If reversed.
Great video. First time watching. clicked the thumbs up. Quick question, on my application I am doing the front of the vehicle. (74 J10) . I am sure it the same concept but did you put jack stands down? worried if i unbolt that the front end will fall.
I used a floor jack on the frame and left the tire on the ground. Should be fine like that. Then you can move the frame up and down to get parts on and off easier. Thanks for the thumbs up!
You didn't show how you tightened the top of the shackle. How did you secure the T55 end to keep it from spinning? There doesn't seem to be enough room to get a torx or hex head on it.
The one I did today was all nuts & bolts. The lower bolt was rust seized on to the metal tube that was part of the rubber bushing. Had to be torched out.
@@appalachiandiy2415 My uncle who's truck it was said another shop told him to cut the bolt head off and stack washers on the threaded side with the nut and air hammer the bolt out. Just hope the bolt isn't rusted onto the metal tube and spins. Maybe jam the tube with a pry bar first.
I noticed on the video that you got the same rounded torx bolts that were previously on there. How are you or anyone else going to take them off next time if they fail? You put those torx bolts on the inside..... I replaced mine with regular bolts and nuts. I win!!!! J/K,,,,,, Great Video!!!!!
Yes. Living in Pennsylvania means everything gets rusty because of the road salt. It could have been possible with just an air hammer but it would have taken more effort.
Excellent video. Short and to the point. Too many people think we want to watch 30 minutes of their not funny comedy. This past year I noticed the driver side rear corner sitting higher than the passenger side. Quick peek with a flashlight showed me a totally rusted and separated shackle. Anyone know the proper torque settings once I sit it back down on the ground? Thanks again. Great video.
@ yea thats sucks. If i know im doing a job like that i try and hit the bolts with penetrating oil 3 days before. I get it every morning before i head out to work. Seems to do a decent job
Use a breakerbar to losen bolts and hammer n' chisel to knock out bushing. Its gonna suck, no doubt about it. Lube everything up a couple days before with penetrating oil, soaking couple times a day. You could rent the tools also if you cant get stuff off. Best of luck!
My buddy with pipes for forearms busted my breaker bar trying to remove the lower bolt on the shackle. Lesson learned was you must remove the nuts on the bushings first. Then he went to TASK with a sledge hammer on the bolt. It didn't budge. I hit inside the bushing best I could with penetrating oil, and a few minutes later punched it through using a 3/8" ratchet extension and carpenter's hammer. That's on a truck that's mostly rust free. I don't have a torch.
@@tonyg2859 dang! Thats crazy! Sometimes even a little heat is better than none. Like the small propane torches from Lowe's/Home Depot. Impact is where its at. If you got the $$ or save for it ...totally worth the money
cant believe how tightly the bottom bolt on shackle is rusted onto bracket . and the stupid round headed bolt with torx at center doesnt give you the capability to put a socket / wrench on it to get more power into it than the torx bit . heat / pb / hammering to break rusty bond / air chisel to break bond / etc , nothing has budged it yet . guess have to cut bolt and shackle in half from rear with a torch then i can get a pry bar on the bolt
I had hit the bolt a few times with PB a couple days before shooting this. Living in Pennsylvania means tons of road salt which seems to GROW rust. Good tip, thanks!
@@appalachiandiy2415 Oh, I feel you. I live in a state that uses BRINE. Worst decision ever. Not only is it very corrosive to our cars, it eats bridges, and anything metal in the infrastructure. But they keep using it. I've seen with my own eyes, the State dumping brine on the road when it isn't even in the forecast to get anywhere near below freezing or to snow/sleet.. Gotta get rid of the excess so you can pad the budget, and then complain about a shortage the next winter. Yeah, it pisses me off.
@@django1 its more like to boost economy,rusted vehicles = people forced to buy new sheet,build new roads etc. thats how gov forcing all those wars to procude more weapons wbhich cost a lot of money = economy goes up
@@appalachiandiy2415 Even better than PB Blaster is Kroil. I've used both. I recently used Kroil before impact wrenching my bed bolts off on a 30 year old Chevy pickup, and every one came out intact! And yes, truck spent all of its life in the Rust Belt (New England)
Ear plugs to keep the rust out of your ears. A hat to keep it out of your hair. And a face shield “not glasses” to keep it off your eyes/face. 3 must haves for working under a Chevy lol 😂 Beat the frame with a hammer a few times before you crawl under too! Rust, rocks, sand, salt in the eyes is not fun! A magnet stick or 3’ roller makes cleanup nice too.
and for those of us who own zero power tools and zero compressors to run those power tools we're just SOL right. it would be nice to see where you put the jack stands. where you jacked it up at and several other things. everyone else thinks this is great vid but I think you left out too many details. this doesnt help me.
If you want to work on vehicles, you certainly can do it without power tools. However, you will find the price doesn't compare to how much time they save you. Jack on the frame and set the stands there as well. If your having trouble with that look at videos explaining placement. This video is not titled jack placement, its titled "leaf spring shackle replacement"
@@godofcreation2151lol got em! He’s been working on his cars for decades and has zero power tools zero air tools and no understanding of where to put the jack and jack stands yep makes sense to me
Sandy Grungerson haha deez nuts! Yes i actually went out and bought that air hammer at a pawn shop for $20 that day. Hammer and chisel is no bueno! Well it helps to know what tools you will need for the job. Thanks
@@cemetery76 haha. Next thing on my list is the propeller CV joint on the front drive shaft needs replaced. If anything its a good content creator for me to make more videos
using that crappy swivel on a impact is asking for problems. When i was early in my career 15 years ago there was a guy that was using one of those on brakes and i broke and knocked out 2 of his front teeth. They have CRMO impact swivels that are rated for more abuse. Not trying to talk crap about your video, just was looking out..
Appalachian DIY that has to be frustrating as hell, nobody has invented a coating to spray on brand new vehicles that will completely cut out the rust? Down here in sc they try to add on an undercoat price, claiming that it was done at the dealership, but that's a bunch of BS in my opinion. They'd have to cover the whole vehicle to keep from getting overspray everywhere. It's a shame y'all have to deal with that, especially if u buy a Chevrolet, the motor would outlast the frame.
@@koch4022 haha! I think they dont do that on purpose so you go buy a new one. Yea an undercoating would be awesome. Maybe a lucrative business to undercoat new vehicles $$$
Weak. I've never used heat or power tools. I don't enough have a breaker bar. They're come off or they snap off. And I'm changing my spring on a 30 yo truck that I've broken half the bolts on. New bolts time.
@@appalachiandiy2415 yessir. I put the "ain't" I there so you'd be sure. Nah, truth is we have some mountain folk in NC that say like you do, too. You're all wrong of course 😂
Please do not instruct people to use a hardened steel socket and a Torx bit with an 1/2" impact wrench! The socket (and Torx bit) can shatter - use only the proper impact socket when using an impact wrench and a standard ratchet wrench on the torx bit. To make things worse, you did so without any eye protection! My son works on cars and he has lost sight in his left eye. I sure wouldn`t want to have him loose sight in his right eye by using un- safe practices like this.
Yes, I do agree, safety is key. A lot of people, including myself, don't have the money to drop on impact rated tools and buy what they can afford. I comprehend the risks of using the tools I do and don't "teach" anyone to risk their own safety. It boils down to safely using the tools you have on hand and being responsible for your own actions. Thanks for the reply.
@@appalachiandiy2415 I was replacing my shackles due to worn out bushings and the springs launched into my bed and one is so stiff I haven’t bolted the new shackle back in. I now have dents in a previously pristine bed lol.
@@appalachiandiy2415 no I wasn’t hurt and I didn’t realize how far up I had to be on the frame. I had to be up near the body mount for the cab, I have an extended cab. Once I discovered that I watched the last shackle slide in and was like I’ll be dipped. So maybe it is easy if you do things right lol.
You are FREAK'IN AWESOME!!! I appreciate the video. I was'nt sure about closing the gap between the spring and chassis. Jack the truck using the frame...man I had a duh moment. Thanks!!!! The tip about using the air hammer was a million bucks also.
bkj228 awesome! Glad it helped. It's nice when you dont have to hurt your mellon trying to figure everything out yourself. RUclips for the win.
11111111111111111111111111¹1111111111111111¹1111111111111111111111111111111111
Dude ... I like how you get things done, no BS, just dive right in, right to the point. Wish more automotive videos were like this one.
Thanks!
This was THE absolute best video on replacing a leaf spring shack. BUT.... it's a lot fricking harder than people think. Two man job for most. When your shackle has separated, the top will smash to the top of the bed, or in my case when through the bed of the truck. Getting access to these bolts with a large impact is impossible. These videos will have their trucks up on a lift. Even when jacked up, I did not have very good room underneath. Maybe an impact "universal swivel" would have helped, but they break easily. Prying the leaf spring down is hard. The bushing was the absolute worst part. Taking out I had to use MAP gas to burn and melt until I could pick it out. Putting in a new one with a C clamp was a b.i.t.c.h. Had to box cutter the end to a sharper point to get initial start. It's okay if you leave a little sticking out because you got the other side covered preventing it to extend further through. Make sure you have a 1/2" Breaker Bar 24-inches. That big newer Milwaukee 1/2" fuel impact still couldn't bust a couple nuts! How the F is that possible? Make sure you have some 2"x2" 1/4" metal plates or similar around to use with the C clamp on the new bushing. One guy refused to replace it in his video, so consider that. Get several thick sturdy long lengths of pipe and various sizes of blocks of wood and planks to wedge when pulling leaf springs down. I did not have an air chisel or sds rotary hammer to remove the rubber bushing. I used MAP gas to burn and it still took time to remove.
haha yes! it can be a bear to get that bushing back in. Editing video, you can always make it look easier that it really is. Thanks for the reply!
Good comment. Just got done changing one on my 04. Took 2 days, broke 2 C clamps, had to grind off the bolt head on the lower bushing to remove it. The worst part was R&R the upper bushing. Had to use a gear puller to install.
@@scatpack68 Its crazy how some of those bushings stick in there, its insane!
Yeah, just did one side yesterday, 9 hrs, 6 smashed knuckles and about half a million curse words later got one side done. Don’t even attempt this job if you don’t have air tools AND a torch AND the room to fit them. This video is somewhat misleading, many rear ends don’t have much room to work.
Happy to know I'm not the only one who's had this shoot through the bottom of the bed.
haha and probably not the last!
That’s why I’m here too 😂
@@alexcools816 seems like a a common problem
Lol just did that on mine
@@Yamaha350w attempt to fix it yet?
I just had my drivers side Leaf Spring Shackle break. Pretty much rusted through. Great Video.
Good info, thanks! Lots of dirt/rust/sweat involved in replacing the shackle on my '07, but not technically that difficult. An impact wrench, breaker bar, big pry-bar, 3-prong gear puller, air hammer (yea, new tools!), a sawzall and even drilling off the head of one of the old bolts, among other smaller tools and techniques based on youtube examples, were used for removal. Napa's ball joint press, used "creatively" above the frame, greatly aided the install.
haha! man you did get a lot of tools involved. always a good excuse to buy some new tools too. thanks for the reply!
Also, important tech tip: Everything needs to be torqued with the suspension loaded with the normal weight of the car/truck (wheels on the ground). Torqueing in the extended position can lead to premature bushing failure.
Good to know
is that five ugga duggas or six?
Eric O would do 6 uggah duggahs lol
I had the same duh moment.Putting jack stands under the axles.I figured it out last night to jack it up on the frame to control the alignment but my neighbors wouldn't have appreciated all the noise.I still have to replace the bracket and shackles and the bolt holes where the rivets were don't line up.Back to the smoke wrench to burn new holes in the bracket and frame otherwise using the pre drilled holes will put the bolt too close to the edge at the top of the frame.97 Ford 4.6 4x4 with 5-speed standard single cab XLT.I already did both exhaust manifolds and had to build the broken bolts inside the heads with mig& stick enough to weld nuts on the bolts and got 15 out of 16 out and use Indian head gasket sealer.So far no leak.Only thing I had to remove was the inner fenders.The guy at the parts store said you have to pull the engine to change the exhaust manifolds.damn,other videos had people taking the motor mounts loose and raised the engine.Starting on the body next and then a fresh new paint job.I made the exhaust from 3" stainless_Put a cable and did away with 3 vacuum components to engage the front end.The vacuum moves a lever a half inch.Now I can use low range without having to worry about breaking an axle.
Wow! you got a lot going on there. Keep up the good work!
Damn. What a video. Guess I'm buying an air hammer. Versus labor on this job? Might as well get a new toy instead! But this will be my toughest DIY yet. A year ago I was a guy getting suckered by the shops. I finally found my confidence by watching videos like yours. Eventually I just started tearing into shit and working through the challenges. So far I've done alignment, plugs, brakes, various gaskets, throttle body, serpentine belt, transmission filter changes, oil changes, alternators, fuel filters, vapor canisters, vent solenoids, purge valves, inner/outer tie rod ends, control arms, o2 sensors, catalytic converter reconditioning, regrounding with 4 gauge and in the last 2 weeks alone I've changed 2 fuel pumps. I'm feeling pretty good about my newly mechanical self! And rugged ways! Lol.
Thats awesome! Keep up the hard work and enjoy all the money you saved in the process!
I put the bushings in the freezer the day before installation. Safety glasses are best used around rusty stuff.
huh, does it really shrink them for an easier install?!
@@appalachiandiy2415 Always works for me. Take them out of freezer, keep them on ice, handle when ready to install..
@@wfoholeshot8614 Nice! def gonna try that
You don't want to torque down the bolts while it's still in the air. You need to preload them by getting the nuts hand tight then lower the vehicle to ride height and torque them there. Otherwise the bushings will wear out and tear.
Thanks for the tip
Nice video. I had a broken hanger on my 02 ram 2500. I went ahead and just did a shackle flip instead of reinstalling OEM. The ride seems improved.
That's Great!
Not sure if it was mentioned before but for people DIY'ing this you can torch the leaf spring end to remove the bushing and it can be done with a cheap propane torch, don't need a OxyAcet torch or air hammer.
Good tip. Thanks for the reply!
i know mine is dry rotted and only the passanger side is making noise when it is moved and sounds like it like my tail gate is slamming and the rear is hopping the leaf spring looks fine should i just start with the shackles then if that dont work replace the springs
Same exact just happened to my van. Didn’t catch it until later in the day once it forced the spring up into the van box.
Bummer!
Do new shackles make a difference in ride performance like smoother on bumps ?
Could you grease the bushing before you insert it so it might slide in easier?
Use a super light oil like wd-40 or pb breaker, also freezing the bushings for 24 hours before hand is recommended
Question, is the shackle at the front of the leaf spring the same as the shackle at the rear of the leaf spring ??
So my new ones have large gaps around the bolt. I filled it with washers, but the fame mounted end shifts from side to side and pops around turns. The shackle mount on frame isnt flat. How is this moving when the shackles are identical in shape to original
If it's identical to the old one, you got me baffled as well. are you talking about the bolt holes being larger?
@@appalachiandiy2415 It is strange. The bracket on the frame isnt flat where the shackle mounts. So my shackle can rock a little, side to side because the bolt head is on a slanted surface. I filled the gap from the shackle with a washer, but there is still a little gap. Idk if its the gap thats allowing it to rock or the slanted mount.
@@trulysick86 huh that is odd. Mine fit nice and tight. Was your truck ever hit or any type of frame damage?
@@appalachiandiy2415 I did buy it with a salvaged title. The frame is fine but the leaf spring shackles had been replaced before. I installed the new ones just like the old ones, which turned out to be backwards. The new shackles were different brands but they both were extra large. I also installed the bolts so that they could be pulled out from the outside
@@trulysick86 Well I hope it all works out for you
Great video. Appalachian DIY so I have to do this for my 99 Dakota...I was going to jack it up and then put on stands using the frame. That relieves the tension on the leaf? My top separated from the bottom like yours so not sure if there really is any tension and in the end I just jack up the rear using diff to bring the bottom closer to the top for bolting. Is that correct?
Other side is a different story and they are attached. Since bottom and top are attached, is it still the same process where I have the frame on stands so I can remove the bolts without the leaf spring jumping up through bed once removed? Sorry for the barrage of questions but will be doing this for the first time. I’m going to leave the brackets alone, looks way too rusted in but still there.
Yes, you got it correct. jack up on the frame, it relieves the tension on the spring. Its not hard, and for your first time you'll do fine. Good luck!
Appalachian DIY thanks will give it a shot this weekend!
Would it cause it go thru the bed if they go bad.
If not what would cause it?
Got a new sub man, greetings from southeastern KY!
Thank you!
When I try to close the gap by lifting the frame the shackle/leaf goes up with it ? Any help?
Do you have the one side tightened down to hard?
Do you have any suggestions where or if i can get only the bushings to be replaced? 2003 Ford Explorer sport trac?
This is all I could find amzn.to/2EoQ7IY This is the OEM part# D3TZ5781A that might help your search. Good luck
Smart to wear ear protection when pounding bolts.
yes, you are absolutely correct!
how did you get the top bolt out? that part hit the editing floor !!!!
Once it loosened with the impact, just used a punch i think. Its been awhile
So you can do his with the truck on the ground? Are the leaf springs not storing a ton of energy from being compressed?
Aaron Collins Absolutely! It is a little harder to crawl around underneath but it's doable. The leaf springs are not really under a lot if pressure. Just jack up on the frame(not the axle) and you will release that pressure.
My shackle is rusted out and so is the spot on the frame where new shackle bolts into. It has punched itself up thru bed of truck. I don't know what to do i need to get to work. Still driveable for few weeks?
I drove mine for a couple week like that and it almost went through the bed. felt a little funny too. i would try and replace asap. If you got the tools and know-how you could fab a bracket for the shackle. if not try searching the internet for one to either bolt on or weld on.
@@appalachiandiy2415 no frame left to mount to.
@@bh5121 well that sucks, the best thing you can do is cut the frame back till you get good metal then weld in some plate steel.
@@appalachiandiy2415 that's the plan
@@bh5121 good luck! Let me know how you make out
Could I leave the old bushings in?
Great video!!! But make sure that you tighten everything down after you put the weight on it or else it’ll twist the bushing.
Great point! Thanks for sharing
Are those shackles in backwards. I just did mine, one side at a time and mine went the other way. 2001 Silverado.
Good question. I checked my other side and replaced to match. Possible its reversed on other models but same part.
Appalachian DIY I was looking at other videos and the white printing is on the other side as well. If it rides fine I guess it’s ok. Was just wondering long term how it will be If reversed.
@@Ezdvd1 As long as there is clearances and it doesn't rub I guess it would be ok but You should orient it the same way your other side is.
That's what I was thinking. I'm struggling with mine as of now.
How the hell did it come out that easy ? Iv been tryin to use an air hammer on this thing for two hours and it won’t budge
Haha, thats movie magic! I dont show you how I struggled, but I did too
Great video. First time watching. clicked the thumbs up.
Quick question, on my application I am doing the front of the vehicle. (74 J10) . I am sure it the same concept but did you put jack stands down? worried if i unbolt that the front end will fall.
I used a floor jack on the frame and left the tire on the ground. Should be fine like that. Then you can move the frame up and down to get parts on and off easier. Thanks for the thumbs up!
You didn't show how you tightened the top of the shackle. How did you secure the T55 end to keep it from spinning? There doesn't seem to be enough room to get a torx or hex head on it.
Timothy Dahlstrom. There is not enough room, you must tighten the top before you attach the bottom. I annotated at 2:20
Thanks!
Timothy Dahlstrom your welcome, hope it helps!
I need mine done how much you charge for both sides
The one I did today was all nuts & bolts. The lower bolt was rust seized on to the metal tube that was part of the rubber bushing. Had to be torched out.
That Sucks! It's never fun when you have to torch stuff off.
@@appalachiandiy2415 My uncle who's truck it was said another shop told him to cut the bolt head off and stack washers on the threaded side with the nut and air hammer the bolt out. Just hope the bolt isn't rusted onto the metal tube and spins. Maybe jam the tube with a pry bar first.
@@martyhorten3743 never thought of doing it that way with washers, interesting!
I noticed on the video that you got the same rounded torx bolts that were previously on there. How are you or anyone else going to take them off next time if they fail? You put those torx bolts on the inside..... I replaced mine with regular bolts and nuts. I win!!!! J/K,,,,,, Great Video!!!!!
Awsome videos
Donyou have the name of the song?
Down in the Dirt, by oomiee, off of epidemic sound
Did you need to apply heat to the end of the spring first before driving the bushing out with the air hammer?
Yes. Living in Pennsylvania means everything gets rusty because of the road salt. It could have been possible with just an air hammer but it would have taken more effort.
@@appalachiandiy2415 yep i'm in Pa too, fortunately the only thing that rusted on my 04 were the shackles. Thanks for posting this vid.
@@scatpack68 No Problem, good luck!
Excellent video. Short and to the point. Too many people think we want to watch 30 minutes of their not funny comedy.
This past year I noticed the driver side rear corner sitting higher than the passenger side. Quick peek with a flashlight showed me a totally rusted and separated shackle.
Anyone know the proper torque settings once I sit it back down on the ground?
Thanks again. Great video.
Thank you!, i think its 110-120ft lbs
What if I wanted to remove the actual bracket from the frame?
I would cut/grind it off. I believe you can buy the bracket online and weld it back on
rock auto bolts back on where the rivets were
Great vid but where the hell you get the new bushing?? Tried Napa, Advance and the dealer... no one can get it.
amzn.to/2WoPh7s
try this. same thing as I put on my truck. Rock Auto is good to
Also check ebay
How to fix my shackles that are touching the brackets ? Thanks
Best way to separate them is to jack up on the frame. This will separate the shackle from the frame to gain access.
You did not show how to keep leaf spring from hitting underside of bed?
I jacked up on the frame. Dont jack up on the axle. If you jack the frame you can control the spring height in relation to the frame mount
any Man with fishing poles on the wall is good with me, better in the hand,.. great vid thank you.
Haha, thanks!
I need my done how much for both sides?
Doing one today...got some nice tips from you, thank you very much!
Great! Im glad you got some good info. Good luck!
@ yea thats sucks. If i know im doing a job like that i try and hit the bolts with penetrating oil 3 days before. I get it every morning before i head out to work. Seems to do a decent job
Great Video, just made our life much easier.
That's great! Glad it helped
Is there a way to do this without an air compressor?
Use a breakerbar to losen bolts and hammer n' chisel to knock out bushing. Its gonna suck, no doubt about it. Lube everything up a couple days before with penetrating oil, soaking couple times a day. You could rent the tools also if you cant get stuff off. Best of luck!
My buddy with pipes for forearms busted my breaker bar trying to remove the lower bolt on the shackle. Lesson learned was you must remove the nuts on the bushings first. Then he went to TASK with a sledge hammer on the bolt. It didn't budge. I hit inside the bushing best I could with penetrating oil, and a few minutes later punched it through using a 3/8" ratchet extension and carpenter's hammer. That's on a truck that's mostly rust free. I don't have a torch.
@@tonyg2859 dang! Thats crazy! Sometimes even a little heat is better than none. Like the small propane torches from Lowe's/Home Depot. Impact is where its at. If you got the $$ or save for it ...totally worth the money
great vid thanx , doin my 2nd gen 2500 ram today . * putting in my request for a waylon jennins vid .
Thanks and good luck!
cant believe how tightly the bottom bolt on shackle is rusted onto bracket . and the stupid round headed bolt with torx at center doesnt give you the capability to put a socket / wrench on it to get more power into it than the torx bit . heat / pb / hammering to break rusty bond / air chisel to break bond / etc , nothing has budged it yet . guess have to cut bolt and shackle in half from rear with a torch then i can get a pry bar on the bolt
Dang! That thing is on there. Good luck!
A little PB Blaster goes a long way dude. All that dry impacting would go a lot better, and less likely to twist off the bolt.
I had hit the bolt a few times with PB a couple days before shooting this. Living in Pennsylvania means tons of road salt which seems to GROW rust. Good tip, thanks!
@@appalachiandiy2415 Oh, I feel you. I live in a state that uses BRINE. Worst decision ever. Not only is it very corrosive to our cars, it eats bridges, and anything metal in the infrastructure. But they keep using it. I've seen with my own eyes, the State dumping brine on the road when it isn't even in the forecast to get anywhere near below freezing or to snow/sleet.. Gotta get rid of the excess so you can pad the budget, and then complain about a shortage the next winter. Yeah, it pisses me off.
@@django1 its more like to boost economy,rusted vehicles = people forced to buy new sheet,build new roads etc.
thats how gov forcing all those wars to procude more weapons wbhich cost a lot of money = economy goes up
@@django1 Do you live in New York state?
@@appalachiandiy2415 Even better than PB Blaster is Kroil. I've used both. I recently used Kroil before impact wrenching my bed bolts off on a 30 year old Chevy pickup, and every one came out intact! And yes, truck spent all of its life in the Rust Belt (New England)
Ear plugs to keep the rust out of your ears. A hat to keep it out of your hair. And a face shield “not glasses” to keep it off your eyes/face. 3 must haves for working under a Chevy lol 😂 Beat the frame with a hammer a few times before you crawl under too! Rust, rocks, sand, salt in the eyes is not fun! A magnet stick or 3’ roller makes cleanup nice too.
Idk how you could use a gloves but thanks my 2001 dodge dakota shackles is literally making a hole on the bed of my truck
That's what mine did, it made a small hole. I had no idea what that crazy thumping noise was haha!
Big big big help!!!! Thanks!!!
Absolutely! glad it could help
Brother I liked your name that’s why I suspscribd 😂👊🏽👊🏽
Awesome presentation............tnx....Cheers.
Thank you!
Easy for you, you can use air tools.
I’m pretty sure You put the shackle on backwards.
went on the same way it came off
Amazing help!
Thanks!
Thanks, Your great, gonna save me a lot of time.
Thats great!
Good video thanks
Thank you!
and for those of us who own zero power tools and zero compressors to run those power tools we're just SOL right. it would be nice to see where you put the jack stands. where you jacked it up at and several other things. everyone else thinks this is great vid but I think you left out too many details. this doesnt help me.
If you want to work on vehicles, you certainly can do it without power tools. However, you will find the price doesn't compare to how much time they save you. Jack on the frame and set the stands there as well. If your having trouble with that look at videos explaining placement. This video is not titled jack placement, its titled "leaf spring shackle replacement"
@@appalachiandiy2415 so were you born an asshole and grew bigger - or did someone piss in your post toasties along the way??? geez. useless eater.
@@appalachiandiy2415 i've been working on my cars longer than you have been alive richard.
Then why do you need to know where to put jacks and stands if you've been working on them so long
@@godofcreation2151lol got em! He’s been working on his cars for decades and has zero power tools zero air tools and no understanding of where to put the jack and jack stands yep makes sense to me
1:49 'deez nutz' .... good vid, although most DIYers dont have air tools, music is a bit loud
Sandy Grungerson haha deez nuts! Yes i actually went out and bought that air hammer at a pawn shop for $20 that day. Hammer and chisel is no bueno! Well it helps to know what tools you will need for the job. Thanks
true, thx for the vid
Sandy Grungerson no problem glad you enjoyed it!
Song name ???
SaltAndFreshFishin 17 "Down in the Dirt" from EpidemicSound.com
need to check mine
I didnt even know it was broke on mine. I heard the leaf spring hitting the bottom of my bed. Thats how I found out
need to check it. hell everything else has been replaced.
@@cemetery76 haha. Next thing on my list is the propeller CV joint on the front drive shaft needs replaced. If anything its a good content creator for me to make more videos
@@appalachiandiy2415 yes it would be
Forgot in your video: PB BLAST SOAK EVVEERRRRRYYYTHING
Haha i really like PB Blaster
And a hydraulic lift
using that crappy swivel on a impact is asking for problems. When i was early in my career 15 years ago there was a guy that was using one of those on brakes and i broke and knocked out 2 of his front teeth. They have CRMO impact swivels that are rated for more abuse. Not trying to talk crap about your video, just was looking out..
Yes, absolutely true. Its all I had at the time. (Still dont have an impact swivel) but will get one eventually. Thanks for the reply!
@@appalachiandiy2415 www.amazon.com/Neiko-02486A-Impact-Universal-Socket/dp/B076FNN4C6
--if only I had the air tools---I'll figure sumpthin out--
Jess Youngquest ahhh that sucks. The air chisel made i sooo much easier. Picked it up at a pawn shop for $15
Might not want to use that socket on an impact
Yea didnt have impact rated ones but hey gotta live life on the edge
@@appalachiandiy2415 It is better with the impact socket as I have seen chrome ones fly apart. You sure make the job look easy. Thanks.
@@larrysincredibletrailers2213 yep, didnt have impact sockets when I filmed it. do now, thanks
Damn all that rusty shit in high snow areas.
Koch 40 yea the salt eats away at the metal like crazy!
Appalachian DIY that has to be frustrating as hell, nobody has invented a coating to spray on brand new vehicles that will completely cut out the rust? Down here in sc they try to add on an undercoat price, claiming that it was done at the dealership, but that's a bunch of BS in my opinion. They'd have to cover the whole vehicle to keep from getting overspray everywhere. It's a shame y'all have to deal with that, especially if u buy a Chevrolet, the motor would outlast the frame.
@@koch4022 haha! I think they dont do that on purpose so you go buy a new one. Yea an undercoating would be awesome. Maybe a lucrative business to undercoat new vehicles $$$
You got balls using a chrome swivel and socket on air impact lol
Weak. I've never used heat or power tools. I don't enough have a breaker bar. They're come off or they snap off. And I'm changing my spring on a 30 yo truck that I've broken half the bolts on. New bolts time.
Well, then you're more of a brute than me for sure!
@@appalachiandiy2415 lol ,that nigga is clASSIC bully in every utube video.literally every video have person like him xD
@@user-sk9hl7si7l Is that like the guy who says, 'You're a pu**y if you don't abuse your truck like I do?' lol
Bolts are easier to take off when you torque them to spec with a torque wrench instead of using a impact just saying. Lol jk
Haha yea usually!
It's easy until you realize the shackle bolt was rusted to half the frame😂
Haha yea right!
G clamp
What side of the pond are you from? I've heard it called a G crimp/clamp from the UK but mostly from the States I hear C-clamp. Thanks for the reply
LOOSEE THE HILLBILLY TUNES TOO LOUD AND ANNOYING OTHERWISE GOOD JOB
haha thanks!
1:49 deez 🥜
App-uh-LAH-chun ... Or you ain't one
haha! you from the southern states?
@@appalachiandiy2415 yessir. I put the "ain't" I there so you'd be sure. Nah, truth is we have some mountain folk in NC that say like you do, too. You're all wrong of course 😂
@@rupertmedford3901 haha. I'd love to know where the "dividing line" is for the pronunciation.
Please do not instruct people to use a hardened steel socket and a Torx bit with an 1/2" impact wrench! The socket (and Torx bit) can shatter - use only the proper impact socket when using an impact wrench and a standard ratchet wrench on the torx bit. To make things worse, you did so without any eye protection! My son works on cars and he has lost sight in his left eye. I sure wouldn`t want to have him loose sight in his right eye by using un- safe practices like this.
Yes, I do agree, safety is key. A lot of people, including myself, don't have the money to drop on impact rated tools and buy what they can afford. I comprehend the risks of using the tools I do and don't "teach" anyone to risk their own safety. It boils down to safely using the tools you have on hand and being responsible for your own actions. Thanks for the reply.
Not even close to that easy.
No its not. Thats the magic of editing. You dont see me struggle for hours ahaha. But it is doable. My worst trouble was getting the bushing off
@@appalachiandiy2415 I was replacing my shackles due to worn out bushings and the springs launched into my bed and one is so stiff I haven’t bolted the new shackle back in. I now have dents in a previously pristine bed lol.
@@bearallen852 Did you not jack up on the frame to relieve tension? hope you were not hurt!
@@appalachiandiy2415 no I wasn’t hurt and I didn’t realize how far up I had to be on the frame. I had to be up near the body mount for the cab, I have an extended cab. Once I discovered that I watched the last shackle slide in and was like I’ll be dipped. So maybe it is easy if you do things right lol.
@@bearallen852 haha. Well i hope if you have to do the other side it will go better!
Deez nuts
haha your the second person to catch that!