Nice work.Built a lot of coolrooms.im a fridge mechanic best way to hold the panel after the silicone.just put 2 rivet on top and bottom just under the 90angle.put it on the female side of the panel on the edge so tht it catch the male panel when u pop it.Cheers
Oh no, that’s a real bummer. I wondered why there were no videos. I’d be tempted to rivet the whole shebang with blind rivets and seal them up as you go.
I am not sure if you have found a solution but it would seem to me that the aluminium is oxidizing, so maybe the simplest fix is to rivet as well which will still give a really strong structure. I am thinking about using it to build a box camper myself. Biggest issue I see is how you stop the water getting under the capping on the roof. One solution maybe to cover the whole roof in vinyl.
I did a few tests and it looks like the glue swells with moisture and little bit at a time releases it's grip on the ali. A different glue would have been fine. I'm using the selleys armourflex at the moment. That gives about 120kg/50mm so plenty strong, water won't get through. An etch primer would help too. Then you don't get the leak issue of rivets. I have a solution similar to yours but much more expensive. Thanks
get hold of some Bostik Simmons 70-05 and compare . i didnt find anything better yet but these type of bodies usually use joints with higher mechanical strength , i am not keen on the polystyrene foam core.
polystyrne core has low mechanical properties . there are higher strength composite panels but they are more expensive. if you are stuck with the panel you have then maybe look at reinforcing the corners with bonded aluminium angles inside and out ? for high strength lap joints Tesa tape is used on truck bodies , in the correct joint type its stronger than adhesive. www.diycaravans.com.au/shop/wall-composite-panel-structural-29mm-m2/
are you using - Sika Flex Primer 206 (now 207). watching EVERLANDER (youtube) not sure why but when he was gluing to aluminum he would always use the primer
I didn't use primer, and that was an error on my part. (Although the Sika glue that I was using said it bonded to aluminium, it also said it was waterproof and didn't mention use of primer for Ali) Some adhesives require primer onto aluminium and others dont. The initial strength tests I did were conducted without primer. The strength of the bond was very high. The issue came about when the adhesive got wet after it had cured. It seems like the adhesive swelled with moisture and then started to let go a little at a time.
@@brendontait6968 where you using Sika Flex 252? It is the only one I know. Watching Everlanders build it was the only thing he used to attach the walls to the aluminum Box frame, no bolts or rivets anywhere. He has been driving the truck for about a year now and it does not seem to have any issues.
@@Gantzz321 I used Sika supergrip to bond the box, in the original tests I used 552 (not 252 ) since I have had good experience with this in the past. Because the panels slid into place rather than pressing into place a lot of the glue was being wiped off and bond strengths weren't great due to this. The supergrip expands while curing so any areas being wiped off would the fill the the void. Everlander used a frame that he pressed the panels into rather than slid in (I would do it this method if I built another). The supergrip getting wet in the weather and losing grip was the issue. However, I've sorted the issue and it's now stronger and more waterproof than it ever would have been.
@@brendontait6968 I am going to buuld a small trailer. Sounds like this product is to problem related to rely on for something that flexes when going down the road. Any water and it's ruined.
I would love to know more about that back door/deck! Wonderful idea to open up your living space
Hey... yeah. I'm going to automate it someday so will deff show more detail then. Dropping the whole back end down deff opens the living space up.
Nice work.Built a lot of coolrooms.im a fridge mechanic best way to hold the panel after the silicone.just put 2 rivet on top and bottom just under the 90angle.put it on the female side of the panel on the edge so tht it catch the male panel when u pop it.Cheers
Also inside rivets every 300mm or 400 on the alu angle not more im pretty sure the panel is 1200 right.
So now I’m sitting here wondering what you are going to do about the glue letting go around the cabin hatch. Talk about cliffhanger 😅
Such a downer, the glue issue stopped my build completely... also stopped my videos while I find a resolution. Glad you've hung around...
Oh no, that’s a real bummer. I wondered why there were no videos. I’d be tempted to rivet the whole shebang with blind rivets and seal them up as you go.
I am not sure if you have found a solution but it would seem to me that the aluminium is oxidizing, so maybe the simplest fix is to rivet as well which will still give a really strong structure. I am thinking about using it to build a box camper myself. Biggest issue I see is how you stop the water getting under the capping on the roof. One solution maybe to cover the whole roof in vinyl.
I did a few tests and it looks like the glue swells with moisture and little bit at a time releases it's grip on the ali. A different glue would have been fine. I'm using the selleys armourflex at the moment. That gives about 120kg/50mm so plenty strong, water won't get through. An etch primer would help too. Then you don't get the leak issue of rivets. I have a solution similar to yours but much more expensive. Thanks
get hold of some Bostik Simmons 70-05 and compare . i didnt find anything better yet but these type of bodies usually use joints with higher mechanical strength , i am not keen on the polystyrene foam core.
@@heartobefelt what don't you like about the polystyrene core?
polystyrne core has low mechanical properties . there are higher strength composite panels but they are more expensive.
if you are stuck with the panel you have then maybe look at reinforcing the corners with bonded aluminium angles inside and out ?
for high strength lap joints Tesa tape is used on truck bodies , in the correct joint type its stronger than adhesive.
www.diycaravans.com.au/shop/wall-composite-panel-structural-29mm-m2/
Where do you get all the channel and joint pieces from, Ulrich aluminium?
Alexco
@@brendontait6968 Thank you! I'll call them up
Rivets. Sealed rivets for the roof.
are you using - Sika Flex Primer 206 (now 207). watching EVERLANDER (youtube) not sure why but when he was gluing to aluminum he would always use the primer
I didn't use primer, and that was an error on my part. (Although the Sika glue that I was using said it bonded to aluminium, it also said it was waterproof and didn't mention use of primer for Ali) Some adhesives require primer onto aluminium and others dont. The initial strength tests I did were conducted without primer. The strength of the bond was very high. The issue came about when the adhesive got wet after it had cured. It seems like the adhesive swelled with moisture and then started to let go a little at a time.
@@brendontait6968 where you using Sika Flex 252? It is the only one I know.
Watching Everlanders build it was the only thing he used to attach the walls to the aluminum Box frame, no bolts or rivets anywhere. He has been driving the truck for about a year now and it does not seem to have any issues.
@@Gantzz321 I used Sika supergrip to bond the box, in the original tests I used 552 (not 252 ) since I have had good experience with this in the past. Because the panels slid into place rather than pressing into place a lot of the glue was being wiped off and bond strengths weren't great due to this. The supergrip expands while curing so any areas being wiped off would the fill the the void. Everlander used a frame that he pressed the panels into rather than slid in (I would do it this method if I built another). The supergrip getting wet in the weather and losing grip was the issue. However, I've sorted the issue and it's now stronger and more waterproof than it ever would have been.
I can’t imagine standing on those ladder rungs in bare feet, you must have elephant feet!
The attempted bond probably had a slight coat of oil on it.
Nope... it appears moisture after the glue had set swells the urethane and bit at a time breaks the bond to the aluminium
@@brendontait6968 I am going to buuld a small trailer. Sounds like this product is to problem related to rely on for something that flexes when going down the road. Any water and it's ruined.
@@bryanswenson1452 there are plenty of other adhesives that are upto the task. I recommend etch priming the aluminium first
@@brendontait6968 ok thanks
@@bryanswenson1452 np... look into using a polyurethane (flexible not foaming) or a hybrid (silane terminated polymer)
Sand the panel you are glueing too.
Genius.
Thanks Greg, I think you'll like what's coming up soon....
Brendon Tait I always do mate and thanks for the education.
Unimog man Brendon Tait nice worlk
Big like