Kitchen Fitting Pt15, Worktop fitting, cutting in the sink & hob with the Makita plunge saw
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- I'm fitting an off the shelf kitchen, making & spraying some doors to fit on, a few other jobs around the house & some preparation for the kitchen fit, This video is about cutting the sink & hob holes in the worktop with the Makita SP6000 plunge saw,
I don't make these videos to make money, I make them to share the tips I've learnt over 36yrs as a joiner, but filming, editing, exporting, reviewing & uploading does take a lot of time so if you have gained anything from any of videos & would like to help me out & donate pls click the PayPal link below, every little helps & will be much appreciated. Thankyou.
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Four years on and your video is still a gem! Thanks for all the helpful info...much appreciated.
Excellent video, as always. No matter how many worktops you've fitted, two things remain true; they're stressful and anxiety-inducing, and there is always something to be learnt from watching someone as good as yourself. Thank you for sharing 🙂👍
Yep agreed, there's no gluing a bit back on when working with tops, it's get i right first time, Thanks for watching & you're welcome, much appreciated 👍
@@Gidjoiner How are you keeping Sir? 🔨 🇮🇪
I hope I could reach your level one day mate your information is priceless for someone who just starting out I appreciate it mate thank you
one day 😊👍 I make these to share just for people like yourself, so I'm glad they're useful, I'm not retiring yet so once i'm back on the rd i'll have more to come 👍 Thanks n you're welcome
I love the fact that you blackened the join on the trim with permanent marker - I was doing exactly that yesterday, thinking 'is this allowed??!?' 😂
Great skills, super tips for me fitting my new units. Thank you. Peace be unto you.
just started watching these videos
I was shown a tip by an old carpenter friend
of my dad for distinguishing different cut lines use a different colour pencil or use
a highlight pen on the line you want to cut
great series
Always relaxing to watch Gid at work..... even if you have already seen it before👍🏻🤣
😁👍 Thanks Paul, glad you like them, think i've got a van & plenty of work lined up so i'l be back in a bit 👍
That’s great mate. Funnily enough I’ve just picked a van up myself today from York.Don’t worry mate, I haven’t done you out of one because it’s not LWB🤣🤣
That's ok, York's a bit far away for me anyway, without transport the other side o Leeds is hard enough 😂
There is a surface cutting feature on the makita rail saw, near the trigger there is a plunge pin, set in it only cuts 3mm deep...once scored then you can plunge blade full deapth and finish with almost no chipping of surface 👍
Yes I know ,
why didn't i use it?
I dunno 😐
thanks👌
bam bam rookie mistake going full depth with a plunge one pass fastest way to dull your blade n kill the saw. I do as you said 3mm pass then two passes after that to get full depth spade bit in the corners job done
Absolutely rock solid, as always. More usefully and practically informative than pretty much everybody else, combined.
Thanks 👍 yep i have to agree, that's what i try to do in my vids, inspired by the crap channels with 10min vids, plumped out with bull & 30secs of useful content,
Brilliant and informative. My only niggle is the use of those waste manifolds under the kitchen sink - they fill up so much useable space in the unit. It's just as easy to fit two ordinary P traps (with washing machine connections if necessary) then you have more space to fill with 'stuff'.
Thanks Karen 👍 Yep they are a bit rubbish, not very well made, the threads on the joints aren't good but i fit what i'm given, they can upgrade if they want & as these will prob deteriorate in time they prob will have to 🙄😏
Thank you for a very useful video. I thought I had seen everything I needed on other videos, but I learned much more from this one of yours, especially the idea of unbolting adjoining base units to ease one out for access to the back wall. Your quiet, deliberate method of working is a good example for us to follow.
Thank Ken, I hope these help 👍
Yep that is the plan for my vids, to give those little bit of information/tips that other vids skip over or don't show,
@@Gidjoiner is there different sizes of guide bushes for routers ie 30 or 20 mm,
@@garethtelfer1376 Hi, yes there are, not sure right now how many different sizes but i have a 15mm as well as this 30mm .
I find cutting the worktop upside down has a cleaner cut, skill saws tear on the side facing you, also find that if you place worktop on 2 saw horses, then cut out for sink and insert same, hold with a few clamps, turn upside down, tighten, then lift whole lot in together....
This works for me , great videos......
Good stuff...I usually drill a hole in the corners of the cut outs for sinks and hobs etc...spade / auger bit to match radius required.
Thanks, yeah i normally would when i was cutting with the jigsaw & did when i did the rented house recently, I think on this my head was full & i was just thinking about the saw 🙃😏
You might be able to make those radius cuts for sink and hob a bit easier for yourself by drilling through with a flat bit - like if you were starting a hole for the jigsaw blade. But absolutely love this. Was hiding behind my hands with the rasp and mini cutter on the edge, but guess you know your tools.
Great stuff. Thanks. Keep it up. Love the attention to detail...
Thanks 👍 will do 😊
Great set of videos. Informative and honest, we all make mistakes or have something unexpected or unforeseen and I like your honesty and practicality with dealing with any any issues. Good work sir.
Thanks ian, 👍
Yeah i like to keep my vids simple & honest, sometimes knowing how to get out of a tight spot, self created or not is key to progressing on with a job & getting finished, I'm just showing my work & how i go about things, sharing as many of my thoughts as to why i make a certain choice, 😉
Before you cut the corners. Screw 2 battons on to the waste which runs across the top, that way when you cut it won't drip down in and damage a corner. Hope that makes sense
hi there
this brings back memories to me as i was a kitchen maker and installed all
the kitchen and bedrooms that i made but i had to give up my business due to severe
chronic disc diesease in a number of places in my back as i used to make all my units
except for few flat pack units i understand the problem with the sink and the rail behind it
what i used to do in the few flat pack kitchens that i ever done was to push that rail to the very back and it was never an issue with the sink i done the same for the hob housing
i know it is much easier when making the units yourself to make them the easiest way for fitting i used to leave the back out and when plummed i would fit a half height back out of chipboard against 2 uprights that i had screwed into the gables of the sink unit and a shelf
you are making an excellent job of the kitchen and the doors in the earlier video looks fantastic
but i wonder will the grey go out of fashion very quickly of course i know you are doing what you are asked to do
i remember when i last worked about 9 years ago tha cream was all the go i dontknow now what the fashion is as i do not keep in touch with the trends
i am looking forward to more videos from you as i like to see the work been done that i once was able to do it like a farmer with his land you allways like to keep an eye on the thing that you loved doing
regards
james
Hi, shame about your back, I have sciatica but this as much a lifestyle as it is work so don't know what I'd do if i couldn't do it.
These are Howdens pre assembled units so I'm going with what I've got, they're always the same though, you always have to chop a load away to get these appliances in, you'd thought they would've come up with something better by now.
Grey yeah, I'm not sure, this grey i really like, did a kitchen a while ago, I've pics on Facebook, in the right light greens n blues can be seen, I've sprayed a fair few cream n white things recently which look fine but there's been a couple of pale grey ones, (battleship grey 😂) that i was too keen on,
I'll try keep the vids coming, as you know I'm working so filming sometimes just isn't practical, It's all done on my phone n most of the times I'm just thinking out loud, trying to share what i know n working from my experience.
Thanks James
hello gid joiner
yes i agree with you about the lifestyle as i too saw it as a way of life
but i had no choice but to give it up and indeed i do miss it but i guess thats life and at least i am alive and we just have to adjust to things that happen to us there is worse things in the world than i have but having said that every ones problem is their own and we all have them in one way or another and yes the pre mde units are a bit of a pain when it comes to the appliances and the sink as i said i have only used the flat pack units on a few occassions but i modified before i fitted them not easy when the units are premade like the ones you had to fit that is the downside of mass production i guess
now as to your videos i really like your style of non scripted and you thinking out loud well we all have done that and sometimes its the only way to solve an issue if it come up
hopoe to see more from you soon
regard
james
Gid Joiner The Howdens kitchen I’m just fitting (my first) even says on one unit that part of it is for bracing in transport only and can be removed. So I assumed that was true for at least part of the sink unit too, because there was no way the Howdens sink was fitting in the Howdens base unit otherwise. I guess they just figure that fitters will do what they need to. I do now see your point though about space at the back. That didn’t actually bother me as I needed to go in front of some pipes, but if the pipes weren’t there, maybe I’d have wanted to set sink further back?🤔
Great videos mate thank you. Wonder Wipes ( red tub) for removing your silicone before it sets.
Thanks David, I'll try to remember that, 👍
I avoid silicone as much as poss, spraying n with my scruffy work clothes, just an atom of that stuff causes fisheyes in the paint, 😖
I didn’t have a lot of success with the Freud blade vs the original Makita, especially on the laminate offcut side. I buy the twin pack at £30 online (original plus rip) B-49345. Screwfix charge £50 just for the original alone. The rip blade in the twin pack with joined tracks is very good for straight lining rough stuff before machining up while preserving the main blade.
Hi, yeah it's not as a clean cut as the Makita, first time i replaced with the same online shopping but this time being a bit lazy i looked at Screwfix price of £50 n thought I'd give the Freud a try, think next time I'll go back to Makita, just had a look, FFX £30 for the two,👍 I have a rip blade bought for hardwood tops but a spare would be nice, 😉
I've got the 3m track so no joining tracks for me, when i bought this machine i knew that joining em would do my head in so splashed out a bit of extra cash, this one is a cut down of one of the two 1400mm tracks that came with the saw, 1400 was a bit too long for doors n worktops but 1400 was a little short for a 1220 board so i chopped 300mm off one n added it to the other, making this 1100 & the other 1400 became 1700, with the 3m they do well, I would like a 2.4m for ripping doors etc. the 3m can be a little big esp for working inside a house.
Great work!love your videos!
Thanks 👍 I'm glad you like them, 😊👍
Hi Gid I’m glad i discovered your channel, learning so much just listening to what you say and watching what you do, much better than any other channel I’ve watched trying to learn proper joinery. Ive got a question about plunge saws and chip out, if the saw was pulled back to make the cut could you do that and avoid chip out? Sorry if thats a dumb question, I’m learning.
Thanks Alan I'm glad my vids are helpful, yep i've been a joiner 36yrs, apprentice trained time served so I'm showing my work, how i earn my living, not an amateur in his garage creating things just to make vids to put on YT, For the saw being pulled back that would cause the saw to climb & things would go tit's up in a very fast dramatical way, 😱 this saw does have a function that only lets the blade go down into the wood a few mm scribing the surface which reduces break out, some table saws have a small scribing blade in front of the main circular saw blade that runs in the opposite direction, a little like you suggest but only sticks up a couple of mm's scribing the wood before it goes through the saw., Sometimes when using the router on a edge i might run the cutter the wrong way, as i say this is classed as a climb cut & is very dangerous,
Gid Joiner thanks for that explanation, I never knew about the scribing blade in some table saws and I can see a climb cut could get exciting quite quickly. You can tell you know your trade inside out, I get so much out of every aspect from choosing the timber through the cutting and joining process and even how to spray paint and the equipment you use for it all. You just don’t get this from a book or from anywhere else really. Love all the jigs and different uses you put the saws/router to without fancy cnc stuff, yup you make it look deceptively easy, and it really isn’t.
The SP6000 has a scribe cut facility - whereby you can cut into the finished face with out chipping. When engaged, the first pass only cuts into the face by about 2mm. I've never had a problem with chipping using this method...
Nice work do you always take riving knife out ?
Thanks, 👍 On the plunge saw? there isn't one if that's what you mean.
would've been far easier cutting the sink out on some trestles and fitting it when you can get to the clips
GidbI watch your videos regularly best on the net,can I ask where you got your dust bag for the plunge saw as thinking about buying the same saw.
Thankyou James 👍 It's one of these, i bought it a long time ago for the 110v planer orig, it just happened to fit, This bag does not fit the cordless Makita tho, www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0014GSSOE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0014GSSOE&pd_rd_w=bcfsN&pf_rd_p=6d92f084-6b53-4a72-8a21-38df421e4a59&pd_rd_wg=flffi&pf_rd_r=FX21EEMX9DHNQETHQJVX&pd_rd_r=eea297e7-8cd2-4d04-92b5-6c56dd491afd&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUU8yV0FRQzJRTUc0JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzM3MzA1MzM1SjQ1T1hFWFFHVCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzU4NjUwMTM5VjJGNVI4T1dXUCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Hey Gid! Do you have to seal the cut out for the Hub?
What’s the dust bag your are using for the plunge saw please?
Hi, every tool I buy seems to come with a bag so I'm not sure, I use what I have & what fits, but it looks like a Makita Mitresaw bag, It might not be! Google 'Makita Mitresaw bag' & you'll see what I mean, sorry I can't be more help.
Any reason you never used the 5mm depth-first cut with the saw as this is what it'specifically is for?
Nope no reason
@@Gidjoiner i would have and not been worried about chipping
@@gavincollins9376 That is the best feature of the Makita track saw, 👍🔨🇮🇪
I noted that you didn't seal the cut surface with pva or similar, why was that, and also in the corners, why not use a flat blade and drill the corner out?
PVA isn't waterproof, although the chipboard is very prone to moisture/wet, I come across very few sinks, if any, that have been sealed around that cut edge so i don't believe many people do, When i used to cut the hole with a jigsaw that's what i'd do, drill the corners n cut,
Future reference cut 3mm depth first them go full depth less chip out
I'll keep it in mind, i always forget this saw has that scribing function,
How do you use Irwin clamps with your track? Have you customised the ends?
Hi yes, the bar of the clamps almost slides in the grooves of the track, they're the right thickness but just a fraction wide, prob no more than a mm so just a quick once over with a sanding disc, i cut off the plastic clamp end & a length of the bar then welded it back on at 90º, I show them a little better in other vids but sorry can't remember which.
You can actually buy clamps that are made to slide in to the groove on the underside of your track, they are made by the manufacturers of your track so in this case they would be made by Makita. 👍🙂
Hid can I ask another question when you cut out the sink did you make allowance for the blade thickness, Inam about to use the plunge saw for cutting out a sink and the inner line is 10mm inner
Hi, James, the thickness of these blades is only a few mm but i always mark & decide which side of the pencil line to cut, on a mitre saw i would either cut leaving the line in, cut along the line so leaving half the pencil line in or cut it so i remove the line completely, with a track saw i would lay the track so the blade cuts to the waste side, So yes, i allow for where the blade kerf & whereabouts in relation to the pencil line it will cut, This is the same with any saw, powered or hand saw. 👍
@@Gidjoiner Hi Gid thanks for getting back to me,great appreciated the saw is fairly new to me and after using the saw realised that if you mark from the left then you keep you saw line to the right this way there is practically no kerf if you do it the other way you do get the 2mm add on.In cut out for a sink today using the plunge saw same as yours but found that the mark to the rear to start the plunge did not line up to a 40mm cut
I just use a stanley blade to trim those edges of the stick on siding, does the file give a cleaner finish?
I use a knife to cut the iron on edges, they need sanding then to remove the sharp edge & any remaining lip, the laminate on the worktop using a file makes a clean edge but cutting with a knife on laminate might crack unexpectedly, I'm not sure which you're ref to but this is how i was taught 🤷♂️👍
Use a flush trim bit in a small router or trimmer and just run it along the underside of the worktop and around the radius to trim it flush it'll be a perfect finish, no need for filing.
Top tip, when you stick the edging on keep it flush with the top and front edge, let the excess hang below and out the back edge!
Any tips on using the trimmer on the laminate edge ? In the video it seems you're using the router opposite to how the blade spins .
No sorry, i think i mentioned in the vid that i prefer to use the separate wheel/fence that comes with the router, in either case only have just enough cutter showing so if the router leans over it doesn't gouge into the top. I didn't go in that direction for any reason apart from the cutter seemed to leave a neater finish, I was only removing a very small amount & it was an old/blunt cutter, I think i cut out the talking about that when editing because i ended up talking waffle 🤪🙃 Cut in the normal direction 😉
@@Gidjoiner Thanks for tip . Using this method to cut the edging Sat for the first time. Recently subscribed and enjoying the Vids nice work 👍
👍 Good luck with that, sorry sometimes i find it hard to put into words what I'm doing, if it's your first time try it on scrap if you can, like i did do the underside first & try the cutting on the very back edge to see how it's cutting, not all these flush trim cutters cut flush, If you watch the bench i made recently the new flush cutter i used when cutting the curved ends cut into the template piece 😒 Thanks Danny, 👍
Well. Took you're advice on the worktop edging Saturday just gone , just showed enough of the cutter to cut the edge trim and it was almost factory finish really pleased with the results. Actually as long just show enough of the cutter it's hard to make a mistake . Thanks for the advice 👍
@@TheAces81 Good, You're welcome, I'm glad it worked out well, 👍👍
Why did you not drill the corners
You don't have to, people do that to help prevent splitting & to get the jigsaw in & to turn it at the corners.
When tightening the worktop bolts, how tight should you do it? Can over doing it affect the alignment? Once you see the squeeze out of colourful? Many thanks again!
The bolts when over tightened just start sinking into the worktop wood, it doesn't moved the joint out of alignment, i make sure the joint is good before fully tightening 👍
Gid Joiner thanks for the quick reply, so just to recap, as long as you see the squeeze out along the joint and pulls in tight. There’s no need to tighten it to the extreme?
No/yep 🤷♂️😁, there's a point where it's tight n won't make a difference, there's a poss on cheap worktops if the bolts are near the surface you could start buckling the worktop wood n causing more harm than good, that'd be rare tho, if the mitre was touching & there was a gap on the long edge, tightening the bolts to extreme might not make the mitre slide closing that gap.
Do I watch Gid or The Bill 😂
😂 That's no contest 😊👍