Great comp for Snake Eye/Fire King. I just recently started playing again recently. You definitely broke it all down in a way to better understand how these cards work and how to play in certain situations. Been playing several hands to see the odds, and it all works out perfectly. And the fact that you have no fiendsmith is different from the other profiles I've came across, and it works out just fine without them. Thank you! Definitely great advice!
Nice video. A few comments: - For the black witch snake-eyes line, it still loses to nib (after princess summons flamberge). Instead I like placing flamberge with Poplar and using oak, then using the 3 fire bodies for duelittle princess amblowhale. If opponent nibs you flamberge can be pushed up and place ip - The black witch fire king line makes no sense since you can always get an extra fire monster by going through the following combo and using your normal summon. You're never playing through nib with just that so may as well do it - Same thing for black witch both engine combo. If you're playing into nib then you should go for the biggest reward, I.e. something like ponix + flamberge make sunlight wolf and duelittle, then island pop duelittle things. Another small thing is that even if you do your line, you should always play around ogre by using island before ash send sanctuary - You can do a bit better in the witch + ash combo, make Anima under sunlight wolf and unicorn on top to spin island and draw, makes the same end board. Plus you forgot to use flamberge to place witch and Poplar place ash to dodge the charmers. Or you could use one of those for the black witch send at the beginning by starting with ash. Starting with ash has the added benefit of being able to send Poplar for witch if opponent impulses Poplar. Of course, the tradeoff is that you'd rather opponent imperm witch than ash - You can't chainblock with hand trigger effects to summon, namely ponix and garunix. So they always go last in chain, and only after your opponent has had a chance to respond to your previous triggers
I appreciate the suggestions! I will say on your last point though that I play in North America where this isn't the case. The ruling is different here in that they would all follow SEGOC and can be organized however which way you want and your opponent wouldn't be able to respond prior to Garunix activating even if the player decided to put Garunix last.
In the last combo, you revive Kirin and Duelittle by Arvata´s effect by mistake, the line should be: Arvata destroys Duelittle. Next chain; chain link 1 Garunix revives itself, chain link 2 duelittle adds kirin. Next chain; chain link 1 Garunix destroys another Kirin in the deck, chain link 2 Kirin in the hand destroys Arvata to summon itself. Next chain; chain link 1 Arvata revives Duelittle, chain link 2 Kirin in GY revives Arvata. Then you have 4 bodys on field and can choose which of them will be destroyed by Promethean Princess.
I'm struggling to figure out how to fit it in honestly and am content with these ratios as they are to where I don't want to either tap into things like handtraps or Designator or break the 40. However when it comes to Ulcanix, 2/3 with 2 Ponix I feel is the best ratio. Though I say Ulcanix is much more needed in pure of tri-brigade versions of Fire King more than the Snake-Eye variant especially when Azamina is right around the corner providing much better
@@VZDuelistI feel like you would then have to include Fire King High Avatar Garunix too cause of Ulcanixs effect. Azamina and the mulcharmy also could be added somewhere in this deck.
I do think you should be adding back Oak from the Sunlight wolf rather than Flamberge. Oak is the best follow up as it’s almost guaranteed to be two, even three bodies. Normal oak, summon back the Ash which can also bring back the Ash from banish, Ash search Birch.
That's what I used to do, but if Arvata pops it out of hand I can use the Flamberge on my opponent's turn to do the same thing. The goal is to have fodder for Arvata in case I don't want to use what's on my field or don't have another target.
Thanks man! That's what we needed so hard... One question here, why do you prefer to make Raging Phönix over Amblowhale in the endboard? whats the benefit? Very great video!
Thanks! It really is the better card for the sake of being able to wall off damage or to push to an otk whenever your fires get destroyed. Amblow is amazing too and it definitely gets the job done though.
I generally side with the mentality of "what do I want to see more?" and "what impacts my opposing deck more?" I.e. nib doesn't hurt Yubel or Floow but Droll does. Ash can be a Hiita target in mirror so take out a copy for a 3rd nib.
@@djgango2 If I can find the video I will, but someone uploaded a video on here that I took to heart when it comes to siding. What you essentially do for siding is to use your handtrap slots for any sort of siding when it involves interacting to stop your opponent. In essence what that taught me is to substitute the hands traps in the main for side options that perform much better against the deck you're playing against. Say you face Floowandereeze: your Nibs are useless, your Veilers and Imperms CAN BE less effective since they run the quick-play, Veiler can be even more ineffective if they drop Shifter right away, BUT your Drolls will kill their ability to continue. So take out your Nibs for sure and if you got something that'll be more impactful like Skill Drain take out a Veiler for it while leaving your Ash Blossoms and Imperms in. You face Yubel? If they get Phantom on board before their 5th summon or if they get to their lines where Nib will do nothing maybe it's better to let them combo off and just focus on board breakers like Evenly or Dark Hole to clear their negates. Same thing about Phantom, Veiler can't really hurt them then but Imperm still can so just leave that in there. If you're going first you'll add in TCBOO to make it immensely difficult for them to do anything and since it's a trap you could take out an Imperm since you're going to have to set either or yet TCBOO is just infinitely better. Mirror? We know a single Ash can't do anything to them if they literally aren't dependent on a single card to play and with Fiendsmith and Black Witch that makes it even more-so the case. Then consider the fact that Ash can very well facilitate their combo since they run Hiita. That said Ash is a lesser optimal choice in hindering their ability to play. So what is? Well like Yubel you could just focus on board breaking or you can add high impact cards that might not force them to stop necessarily but really prevent them from getting an optimal board. Snake-Eye can play around Droll, but you can't tell me that it doesn't hurt them greatly. Since Apo is banned their only way to stop a Nibiru is if they have the Crossout so you can definitely chance that and completely erase their fully completed board before they end their turn. That said Nib and Droll can be substituted in for Ash and since some builds play Talent over or with Crossout, taking out Veiler for something much more impactful if you're going to drop it is all the more wiser. That's the kind of thinking that goes through my head when siding. Take out the less impactful and try to avoid tripping on a Talent and replace with the highly impactful to that matchup.
I see that as a brick honestly. There's no real reason to have Kirin in hand and instantly facilitate Triple Tactics Trust for your opponent when you have (Arvata), Garunix, and Princess live.
@@olimelkamu1403your search target for Barong is typically Kirin and the video creator is basically saying Kirin is not the way during the opponents turn
Yo I tried this deck man and I’m wondering if you’ve gone against red dragon archfiend centurion I got obliterated (0-10) with this exact deck I just got negated with hand traps to start and he’d combo into 4 synchros of one card when I had 2 imperms bro 😭 I need help
Red Dragon Archfiend is definitely a difficult deck to stop with just Imperm. Bone Archfiend is a good hit against them, but it all depends on their hand. As for Centur-ion just wait to Imperm their Centur-ion synchro. They can't get the proper extension and follow up when you do that. Nibiru is very strong against the RDA engine and Droll should be good against both engines. Droplet is exceptional when pushing into Centur-ion.
How does the bonfire combo play around droll? If you search poplar instead of ash you just get drolled cl2 after cl1 poplar effect to ss from hand. I mean you end with a body on field and still have your ns but don't know if that's worth
It's just to give yourself an extra body at the very least. Because what are you going to do with an Ash that can't search Poplar or Birch? It'll stay in hand or you'll facilitate it and it'll now be in gy where you can't play with it the next turn more than likely
@@snipingchase it's not optimal for this variant. Format's too fast to use it as a power play card the way it was in laval's peak and ultimately is best with laval which just can't keep up right now.
It really depends. Typically I'll just go Princess again and get back either Flamberge or Arvata. Or if I get Oak in gy and haven't used it I'll have 4 bodies instead and end on Amblow and either Flamberge + Ip or Arvata.
@@smithsfan425 It's already capable of doing so. Fire King is excellent for Arvata being able to negate monster effects to effectively block their ability to float and the additional destructive power of the engine helps rid of Throne and Pain. Your biggest threat from them is pretty much the Unchained Soul of Rage. Droplet, the Bystials, and Droll are probably the most effective way of handling them; you could also choose to play Dark Ruler No More to help break their board.
Just found ur channel and my favorite thing is how you take ur time to explain all the interactions instead of blasting through it like most people do. Ive just started understanding a lot of the combos and interactions my snake eye fire king deck has and its made a world of difference even tho its a little ways from being complete. liked and subscribed 🤘🏻 amazing value in ur content. Cant wait to see more @VZDuelist
@Dreyden12274 I just got back into the game myself a couple months ago. The hardest part to learn for me was all the level 1 snake eye monsters and the order in which you want to play them to be as efficient as possible. The fire king cards are pretty straightforward, but it all just takes play time and you get it down. It's been really fun to pilot honestly. It's all overwhelming when u first start just because there's so many cards out there and all the potential interactions. But I'd say my time spent learning and playing has been well worth it. And if you do decide to pick this deck up now is the best time. The Quarter Century Bonanza set reprinted a lot of the expensive cards we needed for this deck. For example you can order bonfire from tcgplayer that was previously 40 bucks and now it's down to 4 bucks in bonanza. And promethean princess was 30ish and now the reprint in this new set is only a dollar and sum change. Great time to be playing fire king snake eye fr
@sky-labz601 Thank you for the feedback! Yes, I do try to be thorough as I firmly believe that while learning the lines gives you an idea of how to play an engine additional details will help you understand the way you play out a line whilst respecting interruptions so that they don't stop you on a dime. Keep in mind learning conventional lines means your opponent will generally know those lines too so being able to think beyond certain points of vulnerability that your opponent will try to take advantage of puts you in a much stronger position. That's where the "philosophy" comes in to explain what to consider as you play so that you don't get bricked up by a single interruption; how to set yourself up to assure you'll still establish a good board.
Playing the deck courtesy of Psaiygo:
ruclips.net/video/HJV3ZINoZZs/видео.htmlsi=Fs2dqloMqWrtZZim
Easily one of the best vids for learning the lines and thought processes for this deck, 10/10.
Thank you so much, this video is literally everything I could have ever asked for and have watched through so many times!!
Great comp for Snake Eye/Fire King. I just recently started playing again recently. You definitely broke it all down in a way to better understand how these cards work and how to play in certain situations. Been playing several hands to see the odds, and it all works out perfectly. And the fact that you have no fiendsmith is different from the other profiles I've came across, and it works out just fine without them. Thank you! Definitely great advice!
This is exactly what I've been looking for. Pacing and explanation is bang on, keep it up this channel will grow!
Thanks dude! Picked up the SE cards cause of the reprints!
Crazy good video, very instructive
Thank you for your time and effort
DAMN BRO THIS IS WHAT I'VE BEEN LOOKING FOR THANK YOU!!!
Great work. Ive been listening to your video at work. Really appreciate the time and effort you put in your video. Very insightful
Thank you so much man this taught me way more than what I initially knew about this deck
Crazy good video man, you the GOAT
very in detail thank you. good that fiendsmith is not included
Nice video. A few comments:
- For the black witch snake-eyes line, it still loses to nib (after princess summons flamberge). Instead I like placing flamberge with Poplar and using oak, then using the 3 fire bodies for duelittle princess amblowhale. If opponent nibs you flamberge can be pushed up and place ip
- The black witch fire king line makes no sense since you can always get an extra fire monster by going through the following combo and using your normal summon. You're never playing through nib with just that so may as well do it
- Same thing for black witch both engine combo. If you're playing into nib then you should go for the biggest reward, I.e. something like ponix + flamberge make sunlight wolf and duelittle, then island pop duelittle things. Another small thing is that even if you do your line, you should always play around ogre by using island before ash send sanctuary
- You can do a bit better in the witch + ash combo, make Anima under sunlight wolf and unicorn on top to spin island and draw, makes the same end board. Plus you forgot to use flamberge to place witch and Poplar place ash to dodge the charmers. Or you could use one of those for the black witch send at the beginning by starting with ash. Starting with ash has the added benefit of being able to send Poplar for witch if opponent impulses Poplar. Of course, the tradeoff is that you'd rather opponent imperm witch than ash
- You can't chainblock with hand trigger effects to summon, namely ponix and garunix. So they always go last in chain, and only after your opponent has had a chance to respond to your previous triggers
I appreciate the suggestions! I will say on your last point though that I play in North America where this isn't the case. The ruling is different here in that they would all follow SEGOC and can be organized however which way you want and your opponent wouldn't be able to respond prior to Garunix activating even if the player decided to put Garunix last.
This is extremely helpful
Now this is IN DEPTH
Gracias justo planeo jugar esto oara el siguiente formato
In the last combo, you revive Kirin and Duelittle by Arvata´s effect by mistake, the line should be:
Arvata destroys Duelittle.
Next chain; chain link 1 Garunix revives itself, chain link 2 duelittle adds kirin.
Next chain; chain link 1 Garunix destroys another Kirin in the deck, chain link 2 Kirin in the hand destroys Arvata to summon itself.
Next chain; chain link 1 Arvata revives Duelittle, chain link 2 Kirin in GY revives Arvata.
Then you have 4 bodys on field and can choose which of them will be destroyed by Promethean Princess.
Great vid bud
Your mat collection is crazy
I definitely buy more mats than I should be😅
Intend to update with Ulcanix? Looks really nice. Thanks for effort by the way
I'm struggling to figure out how to fit it in honestly and am content with these ratios as they are to where I don't want to either tap into things like handtraps or Designator or break the 40.
However when it comes to Ulcanix, 2/3 with 2 Ponix I feel is the best ratio. Though I say Ulcanix is much more needed in pure of tri-brigade versions of Fire King more than the Snake-Eye variant especially when Azamina is right around the corner providing much better
@@VZDuelistI feel like you would then have to include Fire King High Avatar Garunix too cause of Ulcanixs effect. Azamina and the mulcharmy also could be added somewhere in this deck.
I do think you should be adding back Oak from the Sunlight wolf rather than Flamberge. Oak is the best follow up as it’s almost guaranteed to be two, even three bodies. Normal oak, summon back the Ash which can also bring back the Ash from banish, Ash search Birch.
That's what I used to do, but if Arvata pops it out of hand I can use the Flamberge on my opponent's turn to do the same thing. The goal is to have fodder for Arvata in case I don't want to use what's on my field or don't have another target.
Thanks man! That's what we needed so hard... One question here, why do you prefer to make Raging Phönix over Amblowhale in the endboard? whats the benefit? Very great video!
Thanks!
It really is the better card for the sake of being able to wall off damage or to push to an otk whenever your fires get destroyed. Amblow is amazing too and it definitely gets the job done though.
Good video brouuu
This video is the bible
Two Promethean so you can go Promethean and a revive and then amblowhale instead of directly amblowhale
The second serves as a backup in case the first gets banished or to continue extending
You should change your name to fire lord Ozai with those combo lines.
😂I love it!
Just a quick one, when you say make Raging Phoenix, is that the end board or do I go into something else?
Or do I then use I:P and it to make S:P?
In reference to having Raging Phoenix as a part of your end board. I:p is namely for S:p
@@VZDuelist it’s better in grave though, no?
Opinion on Silhohatte rabbit?
A nice option, but imo the statue would be another brick that this version doesn't need more of
thanks for the time bro, one question of u side deck, what side out for side in usually?
I generally side with the mentality of "what do I want to see more?" and "what impacts my opposing deck more?" I.e. nib doesn't hurt Yubel or Floow but Droll does. Ash can be a Hiita target in mirror so take out a copy for a 3rd nib.
@@VZDuelist but what side out of u main deck, HT o engine
@@djgango2 If I can find the video I will, but someone uploaded a video on here that I took to heart when it comes to siding. What you essentially do for siding is to use your handtrap slots for any sort of siding when it involves interacting to stop your opponent. In essence what that taught me is to substitute the hands traps in the main for side options that perform much better against the deck you're playing against.
Say you face Floowandereeze: your Nibs are useless, your Veilers and Imperms CAN BE less effective since they run the quick-play, Veiler can be even more ineffective if they drop Shifter right away, BUT your Drolls will kill their ability to continue. So take out your Nibs for sure and if you got something that'll be more impactful like Skill Drain take out a Veiler for it while leaving your Ash Blossoms and Imperms in.
You face Yubel? If they get Phantom on board before their 5th summon or if they get to their lines where Nib will do nothing maybe it's better to let them combo off and just focus on board breakers like Evenly or Dark Hole to clear their negates. Same thing about Phantom, Veiler can't really hurt them then but Imperm still can so just leave that in there. If you're going first you'll add in TCBOO to make it immensely difficult for them to do anything and since it's a trap you could take out an Imperm since you're going to have to set either or yet TCBOO is just infinitely better.
Mirror? We know a single Ash can't do anything to them if they literally aren't dependent on a single card to play and with Fiendsmith and Black Witch that makes it even more-so the case. Then consider the fact that Ash can very well facilitate their combo since they run Hiita. That said Ash is a lesser optimal choice in hindering their ability to play. So what is? Well like Yubel you could just focus on board breaking or you can add high impact cards that might not force them to stop necessarily but really prevent them from getting an optimal board. Snake-Eye can play around Droll, but you can't tell me that it doesn't hurt them greatly. Since Apo is banned their only way to stop a Nibiru is if they have the Crossout so you can definitely chance that and completely erase their fully completed board before they end their turn. That said Nib and Droll can be substituted in for Ash and since some builds play Talent over or with Crossout, taking out Veiler for something much more impactful if you're going to drop it is all the more wiser.
That's the kind of thinking that goes through my head when siding. Take out the less impactful and try to avoid tripping on a Talent and replace with the highly impactful to that matchup.
@@VZDuelist thanks for extended info, :)
Have you considered Barong? Yacine’s video on the deck shows a conbo that uses it during the black witch line
I see that as a brick honestly. There's no real reason to have Kirin in hand and instantly facilitate Triple Tactics Trust for your opponent when you have (Arvata), Garunix, and Princess live.
@@VZDuelist but barong adds on standby and TTT has to do with the main phase. am i missing something?
@@olimelkamu1403your search target for Barong is typically Kirin and the video creator is basically saying Kirin is not the way during the opponents turn
@@olimelkamu1403TTT doesn’t specify the monster effect has to happen during the main phase.
@@TheOriginalMusicGen y isn't kirin quote on quote the way?
Yo I tried this deck man and I’m wondering if you’ve gone against red dragon archfiend centurion I got obliterated (0-10) with this exact deck I just got negated with hand traps to start and he’d combo into 4 synchros of one card when I had 2 imperms bro 😭 I need help
Red Dragon Archfiend is definitely a difficult deck to stop with just Imperm. Bone Archfiend is a good hit against them, but it all depends on their hand. As for Centur-ion just wait to Imperm their Centur-ion synchro. They can't get the proper extension and follow up when you do that.
Nibiru is very strong against the RDA engine and Droll should be good against both engines. Droplet is exceptional when pushing into Centur-ion.
Do you need a second Princess in case of nibiru before arvata?
Highly advise it. I honestly have several flex spots I don't know what to do with so a second Princess doesn't hurt at all
How does the bonfire combo play around droll? If you search poplar instead of ash you just get drolled cl2 after cl1 poplar effect to ss from hand. I mean you end with a body on field and still have your ns but don't know if that's worth
It's just to give yourself an extra body at the very least. Because what are you going to do with an Ash that can't search Poplar or Birch? It'll stay in hand or you'll facilitate it and it'll now be in gy where you can't play with it the next turn more than likely
What do you think about rekindling?
@@snipingchase it's not optimal for this variant. Format's too fast to use it as a power play card the way it was in laval's peak and ultimately is best with laval which just can't keep up right now.
And if they nib you and you remain with 3 bodies (token and the 2 level 1 monsters summoned by flamberge) how do you continue play?
It really depends. Typically I'll just go Princess again and get back either Flamberge or Arvata. Or if I get Oak in gy and haven't used it I'll have 4 bodies instead and end on Amblow and either Flamberge + Ip or Arvata.
I wish you've left an ydk file for the deck, or a code.
I use mobile for the most part now so as far as the programs that would use them I just don't use them.
@@VZDuelist what do you use on mobile to test? I use Yugipedia...
@@VZDuelist hey man what do you use to test on mobile?
How can this deck be optimized to defeat Yubel?
@@smithsfan425 It's already capable of doing so. Fire King is excellent for Arvata being able to negate monster effects to effectively block their ability to float and the additional destructive power of the engine helps rid of Throne and Pain. Your biggest threat from them is pretty much the Unchained Soul of Rage. Droplet, the Bystials, and Droll are probably the most effective way of handling them; you could also choose to play Dark Ruler No More to help break their board.
Just found ur channel and my favorite thing is how you take ur time to explain all the interactions instead of blasting through it like most people do. Ive just started understanding a lot of the combos and interactions my snake eye fire king deck has and its made a world of difference even tho its a little ways from being complete. liked and subscribed 🤘🏻 amazing value in ur content. Cant wait to see more @VZDuelist
@sky-labz601 100% agree, ive just gotten back into the game and I wanna pick this up but man learning all of these interactions is rough lol
@Dreyden12274 I just got back into the game myself a couple months ago. The hardest part to learn for me was all the level 1 snake eye monsters and the order in which you want to play them to be as efficient as possible. The fire king cards are pretty straightforward, but it all just takes play time and you get it down. It's been really fun to pilot honestly. It's all overwhelming when u first start just because there's so many cards out there and all the potential interactions. But I'd say my time spent learning and playing has been well worth it. And if you do decide to pick this deck up now is the best time. The Quarter Century Bonanza set reprinted a lot of the expensive cards we needed for this deck. For example you can order bonfire from tcgplayer that was previously 40 bucks and now it's down to 4 bucks in bonanza. And promethean princess was 30ish and now the reprint in this new set is only a dollar and sum change. Great time to be playing fire king snake eye fr
@sky-labz601 Thank you for the feedback! Yes, I do try to be thorough as I firmly believe that while learning the lines gives you an idea of how to play an engine additional details will help you understand the way you play out a line whilst respecting interruptions so that they don't stop you on a dime.
Keep in mind learning conventional lines means your opponent will generally know those lines too so being able to think beyond certain points of vulnerability that your opponent will try to take advantage of puts you in a much stronger position. That's where the "philosophy" comes in to explain what to consider as you play so that you don't get bricked up by a single interruption; how to set yourself up to assure you'll still establish a good board.