I use the rocket blower every time I change lenses. I've only cleaned the sensor with a swab once in 4 years, and that was because I had a noticeable spot that wouldn't come off with the rocket blower.
Interesting enough, since I started my journey with Olympus MFT 10 years ago, I have never cleaned or needed to clean the sensor. It turns out that these cameras come with some built-in mechanism that keeps the sensor clean.
I had my Sony professionally cleaned once. The second time Sony did it in a seminar for free. I tried to use my rocket blower. As it turned out the blower was old and had a lot of dust inside. My sensor looked teribble with lots of dust on it. I kind of panicked but the pro who cleaned it did a great job. I tired wet sensor cleaning with my Pentax K3 and K1 but have not attempted it with my Sony yet.
It is very easy, I just cleaned 3 camera sensors and it took only a few minutes. Just be sure to put very little fluid on the swab or you might get streaks.
For wet cleaning sensors, It can be a bit nerve-wracking to clean your own sensor if you've never done it before, but once you've done it a few times, it becomes second nature although I will admit that I get anxious every time I have to clean my sensor (which I've done about a dozen times now across all of my camera bodies). The key is to ensure there is NO dust or debris on the sensor (particles) before you do the wet clean. I cleaned my own sensor a few weeks ago on-site while traveling, and originally thought i scratched the sensor -- but it turned out that what looked like a long scratch was just left-over cleaning fluid that was not absorbed by the swab as I realized I actually wasn't applying ENOUGH pressure to get all of the fluid off (you do have to apply a bit of pressure, but not a lot, when wet cleaning the sensor). So using a new swab, a little bit of cleaning solution, and another swipe took care of that and all is good. The key points I'd point out when wet cleaning is to use a blower to blow off any loose debris, use a sensor scope, and make sure you use enough (but not too much) cleaning solution. Swabs are also SINGLE USE ONLY. Don't re-use them even if it's in the same cleaning session. Swabs are cheap, new sensors are not, and don't be concnered if it takes you 2-4 tries to get the sensor cleaned (for me it took 4 swabs to get my first sensor clean, and even now, if it's really bad, sometimes it takes two passes/swabs to get it clean).. And lastly, NEVER use compressed air! I personally am not a huge fan of the sensor wands (sponges) though that have spongy material that you can use to lift dust off the sensor, as i have heard some horror stories about people tearing up their sensors or the AA Filters (mainly if they buy counterfiet or cheap versions of the sponge wand kits). I would rather wet-clean the sensor, but i would only do that if using a blower doesn't take care of the issue OR if you have residue from moisture on the sensor (which sometimes can happen despite being dilligent about lens changes in bad conditions). That all being said, if you still don't feel comfortable, pay someone who has experience. As far as cleaning gear in general, I would recommend people clean their lenses and the external parts of their cameras every day if on vacation or shooting in potentially bad weather. Something good to do at night when you get back from shooting, and before going out the next day. My routine is usually to download pictures, charge all batteries, and clean lenses and the camera body (wipe down with a damp cloth, clean lenses with a cloth and a blower, etc). For upcoming trips, I'll usually just pay the local sho pto clean the sensors (even though I can do it myself, I'd rather have a second person look at them anyway... it costs me $35 per camera, so maybe $70-$100 per trip but not a big deal depending on if I travel with 2 or 3 bodies). One thing I did do in a more recent trip was to turn a gallon-sized zip lock bag into a lens changing utility so I could change lenses (if I had to) in potentially questionable (windy) conditions with little to no risk of dust or debris getting in. Of course you'd want to take extra steps to protect the lens and body while changing lenses (which I try to avoid, which is why I sometimes travel with multiple camera bodies) but if you have to, I have found it to be helpful (not a surefire way to prevent dust/debris, but it can reduce the possibility by shielding the camera internals and lens mount ends from the general wind/dust in a pinch).
One other thing worth noting -- for ML cameras, usually they must be OFF to clean the sensor (this is to help protect the IBIS system). For SLRs it's the opposite because you need power to keep the mirror flipped up. But for ML cameras, TURN them off (and I'd even remove the battery and quickly power cycle the camera to ensure there is n o electrical current going to the sensor or the camera, and then clean it). The last bit about power cycling it is probably not needed but a good measure (IMO) just to be sure.
"The key is to ensure there is NO dust or debris on the sensor (particles) before you do the wet clean." We dismiss this claim as unfounded. IF there is already NO debris on the sensor, there is NO need for a wet clean". Duh. The point of wet cleaning is to remove stubborn debris, junk that persists after all dry cleaning methods fail.
@@NeverTalkToCops1 That's basically what I was saying. WEt cleaning if you can't get the junk off the sensor with a blower (and I did say "particleS" implying physical "junk" sitting on the sensor that could be removed via a blower). But my overall point there was before you wet clean, make sure anything on the sensor that could scratch it, is removed. I've seen quite a few sensors scratched because people either didn't blow the dust off beforehand, or missed something.
Please forgive me if I'm wrong; still new to photography, but I believe I saw something recently in a Fuji manual (I think) that said something about turning off IS in the lens before you remove it (opens up a new menu option in camera) and then the camera to help stabilize the sensor. Am I wrong? If so, it wouldn't be the first time and definitely won't be the last. Great video, as usual!
Yes. Even a weather sealed camera needs to be dried off before being put to bed. They are not air tight, and will fog up with interior moisture if left in a damp camera bag.
Since they will not absorb moisture forever, you should dry out the silica gel packets in an oven. 200F works. Then, they will be ready to absorb more moisture.
……. And if you are cleaning the sensor on a DSLR be VERY careful not to touch the swab onto the mirror hinge area because it usually has grease on it. You don’t want that on your sensor surface!
I clean my sensors when I see dust spots. I have never paid for this service because it is so simple and takes all of two minutes. I cringe when I see people paying around $75.00 for this service in a local club I am a member of.
If your Rocket Blower does not have a filter, aren't you just spreading dust around? And worse, you are projecting dust at speed toward the lens or camera.
Funny you mentioned the hot shoe cover. Lost mine and never gave it a 2nd thought till I was in a pretty good downpour in Big Sur last year and my camera started throwing codes. A friend bailed me out with a piece of gaffer’s tape. Saved the day and trip.
I ended up here because I was using a new lens for the first time that is dramatically different than any other lens I've ever used (4x to 4.5x macro lens) and when I loaded up the images on my 4K screen, I noticed a ton of spots all over every image in the same locations on every picture. I thought I had burned my sensor! (This lens needed a LOT of light!) Luckily it looks like I just need to clean my sensor for the first time! I'm also going to be making sure any new lens I buy isn't full of dust before I attach them.
I have found that the sensor cleaning liquid never really fully evaporates. So, I have learned to use a dry sensor swab right after using the wet swap to get rid of that last amount of liquid before it drys on the sensor.
For lenses, I prefer the Lenspens for cleaning the front elements. I brush and blow and if there are smudges, I will use the clearer end. I don't like to use a liquid cleaner (only as a last resort). I also use a SensorMag Magnifier for cleaning sensors. It has a light and I can see if the sensor is clean. A blower and Lenspen are with me in the field all the time.
Excellent on all counts. I was super afraid to clean my sensor, but now with the right swabs and approach it's no big deal. I usually clean it about 3 -4 times a year max and I like to keep my most used landscape lens on the body to help prevent dust from entering to the sensor. Great video help, Mark.
If you knew me and how much of a klutz I am when it comes to anything that needs as much precision such as cleaning a sensor, you'd be very very afraid.
Until I got a Nikon Z6, I rarely cleaned my sensor. But that camera is a magnet for dust. As far as my tripod, RRS used to have on their website to clean your tripod with warm water, with a small amount of mild soap, rinse it, then grease the joints with a bike grease (they used to recommend Bubba’s bike grease), I have followed that recommendation for the 7 years that I have owned it and it still looks brand new and it’s been in a lot of salt water and sand.
Its amazing how much that this stuff doesn't matter on your photos. I took photos in the military and our course allowed a visible dust layer to form on the sensor or mirror, and our photos still came out ok. As long as light will pass through, you are fine. Digital photography allows for even more garbage to sit on the sensor without effect. The UAVs have multi million dollar cameras and lenses on them and they get hit by bugs, dirt, dust and sand on them. The resolution is much higher than these cameras but they are able to work. Saltwater won't hurt carbon fiber. If you submerge anodized aluminum in saltwater it will take years to affect it. I have taken a tripod underwater and swamps for a SOFLAM designator it doesn't affect it negatively at all. I had to dump water on one once to cool it. It works fine. The screws should be stainless or titanium.
Mark, great episode. I have my old Nikon D40 which I will be taking on a cruise to Alaska. The sensor is dirty evidenced by the spots on my test exposures. Haven't used the D 40 in quite a while. What size cleaning "brush" should I use? This is not a full frame sensor, nor do I believe is a medium and it is not micro 4/3. Would it be the APS-C size" This is a 2009 era CCD sensor. Thanks so much for doing these. Very helpful.
really great walk-through. i was terrified the first time i cleaned my sensor until i did it for the first time. i clean mine fairly regularly, mainly because i shoot aeroplanes in the summer so lots of dust gets blown around
Well I just recently got a FX3 and got caught in a little rain and my sensor was quite dirty. I used a Zeiss wipe and a cleaning cloth and scratched the sensor a bit Should I be worried
I only clean my camera sensor if i notice any spots, smudge, prints or marks on my camera sensor or photo prints. For cleaning it I use the best cleaning kit which is the Sensor Swabs Kit by Photograhic Solutions. This videos shows how to properly clean the camera and by using the right product will help a lot of first timers out there.
I cringed, seeing you work on the tripod over your pristine desk Nd camera gear🙈 I know, I know. It was spotless before you ran through your demo, but still😂 Great tips though.🤜🤛
That's a good point about the hot-shoe covers. I never gave that much thought. Have you seen so-called weather sealed cameras take in water there? And lots of cameras have electrical contacts on the bottom too.
When I'm changing the lens, I'm trying to keep both the back side of the lens and the camera pointing downwards and match them. I do it like that because once I was cleaning a special usb camera while it was connected (so I saw live picture) and the tiny dust particles started to appear practically immediately. The other thing I've learned over time is, that the grease from the fingers is transferred to the swab also almost immediately. So I'm always wearing gloves while cleaning lenses.
Great video. I can't believe how many videos I've seen where they have the sensor exposed to the elements while reviewing a new camera. To me it's bad form and is showing their viewers that they don't know how to take care of their equipment. I haven't had to clean any of my camera sensors in all the years I've been using digital, from the Nikon D70, D300, D7100 to the Sony a7R3 and a7R5, I haven't had to wipe clean any of them. When you dust your shelves in your house the top of the shelf can be dusty, but the underside of the shelf will be clean. I always point my camera down so the sensor is like the underside of the shelf when changing lenses and I do it quickly. I'll also sometimes use the rocket blower on the sensor when changing lenses. I never point the camera up and take the lens cap off, that's just asking for dust to land on it.
Hi Mark. I'm scared. My picture of the white screen is much more bluer after I cleaned my sensor! ... (OK, now I continue my comment after I took another shot of the white screen. I backed off a bit from the screen and the color looks more like the one I took before I cleaned the sensor... Ouf! I feel reassured... It's a new Sony a7rIII...)
Recommendations for cleaning fungus on the inside of the lens? It's an older Sony lens and Sony says they don't do that model lens anymore. Old toothbrush? Yuck. A new one is like a dollar. Thanks.
Well I am glad, turns out it doesn’t have to clean 100%. My A6700 has black dot in 4 spots, down left, up left, up right and down right. Thanks for sharing sir 🫡
A nice effective walk through of the basics. Thank you. I once heard a tip that when changing lenses, aside from turning them upside down it is also recommended to turn the camera off. Not sure if there is any 'science' behind the tip but it made sense to me so it is something I always try to do. Thougths?
I clean the copper connectors on my camera lens and body with a Q tip with rubbing alcohol, because they get dirty also. Just make sure not to drip on anything. Don't soak the Q tip.
How do you know the spots are from the sensor and not the lens? Use multiple lens and compare results? Sorry if you mentioned in video I was watching muted with cc
Don't be scared bros cause I once had disassembled broken nikon d80 and tried to scratch the sensor part but it required quite a lot of pressure! Sensor coating is much sturdier than we think.
one downside of the microfiber cloths is repeat use of them without washing is that they could just smear dirt from past cleanings onto a lens or sensor, so the single use wipes are a good call.
Changing lenses: just like blowing off the sensor aim the mount down so nothing falls in. Hot shoe cover: I use the covers with a built in bubble level. Serves dual purpose.
I clean the lens cap cover also. Sometimes it picks up dust and lint. When putting back on the lint/dust falls onto the lens element. I had dust spot (somewhat large) on my sensor and holding the camera opening upside down I ran the built in ultrasonic mode of the Nikon Z9. I checked for spots and it was gone. Thanks for your tips and maybe these may help expand on the process of maintenance.
Mark.... you're the best! This is the first comment I've ever posted on RUclips. I've learned a ton from you on my photography journey in my retirement years. I live near Bryce Canyon and really enjoyed your images from some of the same locations where I was. This video was very helpful, thank you!!
Great advise. A cleaning that I do a couple times a year is I vacuum the inside of my camera bags.Another habit I try to keep is put your lens cap in your bag ,not in your pocket where lint can transfer to the cap then onto the lens.
haha...my method of cleaning the sensor is to never let it get dirty in the first place. It's an expensive method...don't change out lens unless you really have to and only in very clean situations. Although I don't do this...if I was financially able would always have a dedicated camera to a specific lens.....carrying them all around too would not be practical or easy...but to me that's my ultimate method, lol.
I saw a video where the presenter said for the GFX cameras it's best to have them on and use the IBIS lock setting when cleaning the sensor. Great tip about hot shoe covers, I'd better order some :)
If I have blue sky in my image and plan on printing (especially large print) I would go back and use the dust button in the healing tool in Lightroom, this will reveal spots too.
Makes total sense. I’ve just bought an EOS700D second hand. Very light spots at F22 on white paper. But having taken over 100 shots after this, totally unnoticeable on regular shots. So I’ve left it alone and not bothered to clean it.
Hi @MarkDenneyPhoto I have carefully watched all your videos... i found out that every time you pick up your camera from the backpack that you placed on the ground in the dirt. Then you open the camera that is facing upward looking at the sky above you instead of downward, finally you pick up a lens and attach it. Every camera sensor is going to collect a lot of dirt if you do so, i bet you have more dust than megapixels!😂
Great video; I am always amazed at the reaction I get when I tell people about sensor cleaning. I shoot lots of rodeos and other dusty dirt-blowing events. If I have to change lenses, I duck into a building; I carry a pocket full of Zeiss lens wipes, use a sensor kit if things are nasty, and carry a rocket blower. This past summer, I picked up a Nitecore BB2 electronic blower, which is always in my bag. It takes a quick USB charge and does the trick on everything ; they also sell soft lenses and sensor brushes. What would take me a few minutes of hand pumping I can do in seconds. It really moves dust.
Watching this again, for lens swaps, if I have a place ot put both lenses, I like to loosen the cap of the lens I'm going to put on (but not remove the cap). Line-up the dot with the dot on the other lens, and then quickly remove the bottom from the old lens, and quickly attach it to the new lens. Usually I can do this within a second, but I also try to keep my body as a shield to protect the lens, especailly if it's a little windy and I HAVE TO change lenses (usually if it may be windy or questionable -- like in Winter) I'll try to just carry two bodies and not change lenses to begin with. But if I do, I will do that, or I will use my little home made lens-changing bag which helps reduce the possibility of debris and dust getting into the camera or the back of the lens (works sort of like a dark bag for film where you operate it with both hands through holes in the sides. I would say if your camera has a sensor shield (some of the Nikon and Canon cameras have this feature now) I would use it. It can greatly reduce the amount of dust/debris that can get in while changing lenses, although if there is debris on the back of the lens, this will not prevent dirt from getting transferre that way, so maybe blow off the back of your lenses as part of your cleaning routine and if you have time, before you attach them. For tripod in Water, I have used small baggies (sturdy baggies) if I need to push the tripod leg into the sand or dirt when photographing water subject for stability reasons. Usually this works (although sometimes the leg can slip through the bag -- puncture it) but it does help reduce the amount of sand that can get into the tripod leg. The hotshoe cover thing is good, and I'm a bit surprised because when I bought a Nikon D750 back in 2014, it didn't come with one from the factory and everyone else I know who bought one, didn't get one either, and Nikon's response to this was that they felt that it could trap moisture and cause issues so they stopped including them (they did resume on subsequent models after people comment on the downsides -- shorting out without a cover -- being more common than moisture and dirt getting under the cover and causing issues -- so most or all new Nikons now include the cover. I've sort of saved them from previous cameras that I've sold (which where mostly Nikons so the shoe covers were basically the same) so I have spares. The cover is also good in case your camera dose happen to fall upside-down on the hot shoe as this can help prevent it from distorting and/or damaging the contacts too, so it does help with that as well. I know people who had exposed hotshoes that otherwise dropped their cameras and the hotshoe was thus useless or they had to send them off to be fixed.
Two things. First, any reason not to use a soft, CLEAN brush on the lens elements with a few more blasts of air between blowing off dust and wiping it off? Maybe dislodge something that is loosely attached and save the wiping. Second, be cautious about the wipes used. The Zeiss wipes use isopropyl alcohol and I've never had any trouble using them on anything. My work place provided us with wipes that used, I believe, ethanol alcohol which damaged the coating on my eyeglasses. Thankfully, they were due for replacement.
I had owned my Sony FX3 for nearly 2 weeks before "the lens swap/sneezing disaster!" - I can live with sensor blemishes on a 10 year old camera, but not when I'm spending more than i do on a new car! (I buy cheap cars)
I’d use Canadian made visibleDust for both camera sensor and housing(blowing won’t work as the housing is designed to grab to any dirt you blow) For lens I’d use Lens Pen, not a big fan of touching all those lens coatings with a wet cloth. Thank you
I cleaned the sensors in my D500 and Z7II a number of times. I haven't needed to with the Z8 yet. Only blow a bit of dust out. If you do a lot of aviation photography, you'll soon notice any spots on the sensor. Also blow out any dust from the lens cap.
Enjoyed this video very much. Good info. I'm still afraid to clean my sensor myself but it should would save me money to do it myself. Also, good point on the hotshoe cover. Ordered some just now. Thanks, Mark.
When using the blower, I like to create a negative pressure area underneath the camera with a vacuum cleaner hose so any dislodged dust is drawn down and sucked away. Otherwise you just dislodge the dust to float around aimlessly. Blowing & sucking is a practiced artform, as we all know...
Great video, Mark! This topic just came up this week between my girlfriend and I. We are headed to Acadia National Park next week and she cleaned her sensor for the first time since she bought the camera several years ago. I wish you had put this out last week! :) Thank you
One tip I always follow. Face your camera down when changing lens's so dust doesn't fall into it. I only clean my sensor after I see a issue. I've had great success with Eye lead sensor cleaner (gum stick), its reusable and you can target areas instead of wiping the whole sensor and causing more of a mess. Been using them for 5 years maybe and they are great. Thanks for the video!
Thanks Mark! Love the Lightroom method to see the spots and I didn't know about the glass in front of the sensor...like you, I'm not as apprehensive of about cleaning as I was.
I've never even seen the sensor on my R5! I've done checks now and then (blue sky) but still haven't found any spots. Having the shutter cover the sensor when it's off seems to be working great.
Not very often. I just cleaned my GFX and Sony RIV using the VSGO sensor cleaning kit. Easy to use and cheap too. Lenses this day are pretty well made I dropped two of my lenses recently and broke two of UV filters but there were no other visible damage to the lenses.
A point on tripods in sea water. I agree that the lowest leg portion should be in the sea. After this, I wouldn’t close the lower portion of the leg which has been under water until I’d cleaned it in fresh water (probably in the shower!). Thanks for the video, especially sensor cleaning.
I just bought a completely new camera, and you are right, the sensor is not remotely clean, i tested it in lightroom. I dont want to stress about it, just want to focus on taking great photos. Your videos helped me a lot, so thank you.
I used to send my old camera into be cleaned by a "Specialist" who would charge me a lot and take a week to do. Only when I bought my new one and started to take photography seriously, did I learn how easy it is to do yourself.
Great timing! I’ve been putting off cleaning the sensor on my camera, but have a photography trip planned for eastern NC this weekend. Time to get it done!
Great tips, Mark! I love the Zeiss wipes - just enough moisture to do the job, but not so saturated that they leave droplets on the glass. I *do* shoot the blower on the sensor every time I change lenses - indoors if possible. I only clean the sensor when necessary - I was surprised that, following my 11 days in the Iceland Highlands in August, my sensor was still spot-free. When I take a test shot of the white screen, I will rotate the camera in a slow circle during the exposure. The sensor spots will not move!
For someone that also do time lapse is actually pretty important to keep a clean So I do check the cleanest before i starts a time lapse of attempt, Sometimes It get very messy when the dust spot is in the wrong spot in a time lapes at and already rare magic hour and you need to junk the whole timelapes because few dust in a realy wrong sport that cannot be clean up after trying hour on different software😢
I'd also recommend testing your gear prior to travel. I brought along my drone in a trip to Colorado this week and got a motor error message. It worked the last time I used it and sat in a cabinet until this trip. I assumed it would work properly and that was a costly mistake.
The explanation that there is a thin layer of glass on the sensor has just put my mind a little more at ease as well! Thanks for that and another calmly informative video. I brought my GFX to this year's Burning Man, and though I was thrilled by the lack of visible dust infiltration, I am sure my sensor will benefit from a swab
I prefer to use a separate harder brush for the outside of camera and lenses to remove sand and mud and a softer brush for the lens glass. I want to avoid sand particles sticking in the brush and cleaning the glass with it. Maintenance is indeed important and especially necessary for the equipment you can use for a lifetime like a good tripod. Don’t forget to also clean your bags outside but especially inside where sand and mud can stick on dividers and in pockets. An annual bag cleaning and treatment with a durable water repellent will extend the lifespan of the bag and is protecting your equipment.
Another tip when taking a picture of your white screen: move the camera around in a circular motion across the screen to cancel out any potential dirt or flaws on the screen itself.
🌟How often do you clean your sensor?
Never done 😮 !
Regardless of which, this came timely, leaving for Taiwan the 15/10 , for a whole month 😅😊.
I use the rocket blower every time I change lenses. I've only cleaned the sensor with a swab once in 4 years, and that was because I had a noticeable spot that wouldn't come off with the rocket blower.
Interesting enough, since I started my journey with Olympus MFT 10 years ago, I have never cleaned or needed to clean the sensor. It turns out that these cameras come with some built-in mechanism that keeps the sensor clean.
Enjoy your trip! @@mr.t5610
I had my Sony professionally cleaned once. The second time Sony did it in a seminar for free. I tried to use my rocket blower. As it turned out the blower was old and had a lot of dust inside. My sensor looked teribble with lots of dust on it. I kind of panicked but the pro who cleaned it did a great job. I tired wet sensor cleaning with my Pentax K3 and K1 but have not attempted it with my Sony yet.
imagine you clean your sensor and find out your monitor had spots
I also clean the lens caps - they are magnets for dirt. Nothing worse than cleaning the lenses themselves and then put dirty caps back on!
Thanks for that tip.
Also on the lens end and any adapter
Also always close the landscape and body cap together to prevent dust getting there the first Place
Clean then, but also keep them screwed together when not in use.
Yup, I recently discovered that. So tell myself constantly "CLEAN THE CAP, CLEAN THE CAP."
It is very easy, I just cleaned 3 camera sensors and it took only a few minutes. Just be sure to put very little fluid on the swab or you might get streaks.
The video I knew I needed...thanks!
Thanks for taking a look!
For wet cleaning sensors, It can be a bit nerve-wracking to clean your own sensor if you've never done it before, but once you've done it a few times, it becomes second nature although I will admit that I get anxious every time I have to clean my sensor (which I've done about a dozen times now across all of my camera bodies). The key is to ensure there is NO dust or debris on the sensor (particles) before you do the wet clean. I cleaned my own sensor a few weeks ago on-site while traveling, and originally thought i scratched the sensor -- but it turned out that what looked like a long scratch was just left-over cleaning fluid that was not absorbed by the swab as I realized I actually wasn't applying ENOUGH pressure to get all of the fluid off (you do have to apply a bit of pressure, but not a lot, when wet cleaning the sensor). So using a new swab, a little bit of cleaning solution, and another swipe took care of that and all is good.
The key points I'd point out when wet cleaning is to use a blower to blow off any loose debris, use a sensor scope, and make sure you use enough (but not too much) cleaning solution. Swabs are also SINGLE USE ONLY. Don't re-use them even if it's in the same cleaning session. Swabs are cheap, new sensors are not, and don't be concnered if it takes you 2-4 tries to get the sensor cleaned (for me it took 4 swabs to get my first sensor clean, and even now, if it's really bad, sometimes it takes two passes/swabs to get it clean).. And lastly, NEVER use compressed air!
I personally am not a huge fan of the sensor wands (sponges) though that have spongy material that you can use to lift dust off the sensor, as i have heard some horror stories about people tearing up their sensors or the AA Filters (mainly if they buy counterfiet or cheap versions of the sponge wand kits). I would rather wet-clean the sensor, but i would only do that if using a blower doesn't take care of the issue OR if you have residue from moisture on the sensor (which sometimes can happen despite being dilligent about lens changes in bad conditions). That all being said, if you still don't feel comfortable, pay someone who has experience.
As far as cleaning gear in general, I would recommend people clean their lenses and the external parts of their cameras every day if on vacation or shooting in potentially bad weather. Something good to do at night when you get back from shooting, and before going out the next day. My routine is usually to download pictures, charge all batteries, and clean lenses and the camera body (wipe down with a damp cloth, clean lenses with a cloth and a blower, etc). For upcoming trips, I'll usually just pay the local sho pto clean the sensors (even though I can do it myself, I'd rather have a second person look at them anyway... it costs me $35 per camera, so maybe $70-$100 per trip but not a big deal depending on if I travel with 2 or 3 bodies).
One thing I did do in a more recent trip was to turn a gallon-sized zip lock bag into a lens changing utility so I could change lenses (if I had to) in potentially questionable (windy) conditions with little to no risk of dust or debris getting in. Of course you'd want to take extra steps to protect the lens and body while changing lenses (which I try to avoid, which is why I sometimes travel with multiple camera bodies) but if you have to, I have found it to be helpful (not a surefire way to prevent dust/debris, but it can reduce the possibility by shielding the camera internals and lens mount ends from the general wind/dust in a pinch).
One other thing worth noting -- for ML cameras, usually they must be OFF to clean the sensor (this is to help protect the IBIS system). For SLRs it's the opposite because you need power to keep the mirror flipped up. But for ML cameras, TURN them off (and I'd even remove the battery and quickly power cycle the camera to ensure there is n o electrical current going to the sensor or the camera, and then clean it). The last bit about power cycling it is probably not needed but a good measure (IMO) just to be sure.
"The key is to ensure there is NO dust or debris on the sensor (particles) before you do the wet clean." We dismiss this claim as unfounded. IF there is already NO debris on the sensor, there is NO need for a wet clean". Duh. The point of wet cleaning is to remove stubborn debris, junk that persists after all dry cleaning methods fail.
@@NeverTalkToCops1 That's basically what I was saying. WEt cleaning if you can't get the junk off the sensor with a blower (and I did say "particleS" implying physical "junk" sitting on the sensor that could be removed via a blower). But my overall point there was before you wet clean, make sure anything on the sensor that could scratch it, is removed. I've seen quite a few sensors scratched because people either didn't blow the dust off beforehand, or missed something.
Please forgive me if I'm wrong; still new to photography, but I believe I saw something recently in a Fuji manual (I think) that said something about turning off IS in the lens before you remove it (opens up a new menu option in camera) and then the camera to help stabilize the sensor. Am I wrong? If so, it wouldn't be the first time and definitely won't be the last. Great video, as usual!
My complete photo kit is ~300€ an old Nikon D5100 with a kit lens 18-55 mm and a 128gb SD card. If only I could get something a bit newer and better
One preventative measure I use is having silica gel moisture absorber sachets in my camera and lens bags. You can get packs of them very cheaply.
Yes. Even a weather sealed camera needs to be dried off before being put to bed. They are not air tight, and will fog up with interior moisture if left in a damp camera bag.
I do that as well.
Well that's the thing I forget every time I go somewhere :)
Since they will not absorb moisture forever, you should dry out the silica gel packets in an oven. 200F works. Then, they will be ready to absorb more moisture.
……. And if you are cleaning the sensor on a DSLR be VERY careful not to touch the swab onto the mirror hinge area because it usually has grease on it. You don’t want that on your sensor surface!
I clean my sensors when I see dust spots. I have never paid for this service because it is so simple and takes all of two minutes. I cringe when I see people paying around $75.00 for this service in a local club I am a member of.
If your Rocket Blower does not have a filter, aren't you just spreading dust around? And worse, you are projecting dust at speed toward the lens or camera.
Funny you mentioned the hot shoe cover. Lost mine and never gave it a 2nd thought till I was in a pretty good downpour in Big Sur last year and my camera started throwing codes. A friend bailed me out with a piece of gaffer’s tape. Saved the day and trip.
I ended up here because I was using a new lens for the first time that is dramatically different than any other lens I've ever used (4x to 4.5x macro lens) and when I loaded up the images on my 4K screen, I noticed a ton of spots all over every image in the same locations on every picture. I thought I had burned my sensor! (This lens needed a LOT of light!)
Luckily it looks like I just need to clean my sensor for the first time! I'm also going to be making sure any new lens I buy isn't full of dust before I attach them.
I have found that the sensor cleaning liquid never really fully evaporates. So, I have learned to use a dry sensor swab right after using the wet swap to get rid of that last amount of liquid before it drys on the sensor.
For lenses, I prefer the Lenspens for cleaning the front elements. I brush and blow and if there are smudges, I will use the clearer end. I don't like to use a liquid cleaner (only as a last resort). I also use a SensorMag Magnifier for cleaning sensors. It has a light and I can see if the sensor is clean. A blower and Lenspen are with me in the field all the time.
Excellent on all counts. I was super afraid to clean my sensor, but now with the right swabs and approach it's no big deal. I usually clean it about 3 -4 times a year max and I like to keep my most used landscape lens on the body to help prevent dust from entering to the sensor. Great video help, Mark.
If you knew me and how much of a klutz I am when it comes to anything that needs as much precision such as cleaning a sensor, you'd be very very afraid.
Until I got a Nikon Z6, I rarely cleaned my sensor. But that camera is a magnet for dust. As far as my tripod, RRS used to have on their website to clean your tripod with warm water, with a small amount of mild soap, rinse it, then grease the joints with a bike grease (they used to recommend Bubba’s bike grease), I have followed that recommendation for the 7 years that I have owned it and it still looks brand new and it’s been in a lot of salt water and sand.
Get a DSLR. Problem solved
Thanks for sharing, you just reduced my anxiety by 90%
Pfff, I use the DPReview method of cleaning with a flamethrower and its been working great, the camera is brand new each time I clean it!
Its amazing how much that this stuff doesn't matter on your photos. I took photos in the military and our course allowed a visible dust layer to form on the sensor or mirror, and our photos still came out ok. As long as light will pass through, you are fine. Digital photography allows for even more garbage to sit on the sensor without effect. The UAVs have multi million dollar cameras and lenses on them and they get hit by bugs, dirt, dust and sand on them. The resolution is much higher than these cameras but they are able to work.
Saltwater won't hurt carbon fiber. If you submerge anodized aluminum in saltwater it will take years to affect it. I have taken a tripod underwater and swamps for a SOFLAM designator it doesn't affect it negatively at all. I had to dump water on one once to cool it. It works fine. The screws should be stainless or titanium.
Mark, great episode. I have my old Nikon D40 which I will be taking on a cruise to Alaska. The sensor is dirty evidenced by the spots on my test exposures. Haven't used the D 40 in quite a while. What size cleaning "brush" should I use? This is not a full frame sensor, nor do I believe is a medium and it is not micro 4/3. Would it be the APS-C size" This is a 2009 era CCD sensor. Thanks so much for doing these. Very helpful.
really great walk-through. i was terrified the first time i cleaned my sensor until i did it for the first time. i clean mine fairly regularly, mainly because i shoot aeroplanes in the summer so lots of dust gets blown around
Actually I HAVE added up my photography expenditures (call me a data nerd). It is about $24k … over the last 20 years. Worth it to me.
Well
I just recently got a FX3 and got caught in a little rain and my sensor was quite dirty. I used a Zeiss wipe and a cleaning cloth and scratched the sensor a bit
Should I be worried
I only clean my camera sensor if i notice any spots, smudge, prints or marks on my camera sensor or photo prints. For cleaning it I use the best cleaning kit which is the Sensor Swabs Kit by Photograhic Solutions. This videos shows how to properly clean the camera and by using the right product will help a lot of first timers out there.
I cringed, seeing you work on the tripod over your pristine desk Nd camera gear🙈
I know, I know. It was spotless before you ran through your demo, but still😂
Great tips though.🤜🤛
That's a good point about the hot-shoe covers. I never gave that much thought. Have you seen so-called weather sealed cameras take in water there? And lots of cameras have electrical contacts on the bottom too.
When I'm changing the lens, I'm trying to keep both the back side of the lens and the camera pointing downwards and match them. I do it like that because once I was cleaning a special usb camera while it was connected (so I saw live picture) and the tiny dust particles started to appear practically immediately.
The other thing I've learned over time is, that the grease from the fingers is transferred to the swab also almost immediately. So I'm always wearing gloves while cleaning lenses.
Great video. I can't believe how many videos I've seen where they have the sensor exposed to the elements while reviewing a new camera. To me it's bad form and is showing their viewers that they don't know how to take care of their equipment.
I haven't had to clean any of my camera sensors in all the years I've been using digital, from the Nikon D70, D300, D7100 to the Sony a7R3 and a7R5, I haven't had to wipe clean any of them.
When you dust your shelves in your house the top of the shelf can be dusty, but the underside of the shelf will be clean. I always point my camera down so the sensor is like the underside of the shelf when changing lenses and I do it quickly. I'll also sometimes use the rocket blower on the sensor when changing lenses. I never point the camera up and take the lens cap off, that's just asking for dust to land on it.
Hi Mark. I'm scared. My picture of the white screen is much more bluer after I cleaned my sensor! ... (OK, now I continue my comment after I took another shot of the white screen. I backed off a bit from the screen and the color looks more like the one I took before I cleaned the sensor... Ouf! I feel reassured... It's a new Sony a7rIII...)
Thanks for your vid. It is simple and straight forward. My bottle of cleaning solution has dried out can I use IPA for the swab to clean the sensor ?
I always come back to 10:23 when my dust OCD kicks in 😂
Recommendations for cleaning fungus on the inside of the lens? It's an older Sony lens and Sony says they don't do that model lens anymore.
Old toothbrush? Yuck. A new one is like a dollar. Thanks.
When using a swab, do you reccomend leaving the camera switched on (to lock the sensor in place) or switch it off? Or does it not make any difference?
I took mine to Sony HQ and they used a sticky plastic stick like a lollipop 🍭
Well I am glad, turns out it doesn’t have to clean 100%. My A6700 has black dot in 4 spots, down left, up left, up right and down right. Thanks for sharing sir 🫡
Very informative and very concise... Thank you....
A nice effective walk through of the basics. Thank you. I once heard a tip that when changing lenses, aside from turning them upside down it is also recommended to turn the camera off. Not sure if there is any 'science' behind the tip but it made sense to me so it is something I always try to do. Thougths?
I clean the copper connectors on my camera lens and body with a Q tip with rubbing alcohol, because they get dirty also. Just make sure not to drip on anything. Don't soak the Q tip.
I would avoid using those wipes on your camera lenses. They aren’t the best.
13:57=Tripod Etiquette 101. Thanks for the tips!
How do you maintain the rubber on your lenses? @markdennyphoto
How do you know the spots are from the sensor and not the lens? Use multiple lens and compare results? Sorry if you mentioned in video I was watching muted with cc
Don't be scared bros cause I once had disassembled broken nikon d80 and tried to scratch the sensor part but it required quite a lot of pressure! Sensor coating is much sturdier than we think.
The sensor have a protective glass? after very long time ill clean my sensor..save 30$😊
one downside of the microfiber cloths is repeat use of them without washing is that they could just smear dirt from past cleanings onto a lens or sensor, so the single use wipes are a good call.
Changing lenses: just like blowing off the sensor aim the mount down so nothing falls in. Hot shoe cover: I use the covers with a built in bubble level. Serves dual purpose.
Cleaning the lens cap and rear element cap is often overlooked. I clean the lens, replace the cap and what do know....I have the clean the lens again!
I clean the lens cap cover also. Sometimes it picks up dust and lint. When putting back on the lint/dust falls onto the lens element. I had dust spot (somewhat large) on my sensor and holding the camera opening upside down I ran the built in ultrasonic mode of the Nikon Z9. I checked for spots and it was gone. Thanks for your tips and maybe these may help expand on the process of maintenance.
I found it very useful, thank you a lot Mark😃
On your camera you have to turn your camera on to stop the sensor from moving. You might damage the mechanism that manages the stops.
Many cameras yes - definitely want to refer to your owners manual for the details first.
Mark.... you're the best! This is the first comment I've ever posted on RUclips. I've
learned a ton from you on my photography journey in my retirement years. I live near Bryce Canyon and really enjoyed your images from some of the same locations where I was. This video was very helpful, thank you!!
Great to hear you enjoyed the video!
Great advise. A cleaning that I do a couple times a year is I vacuum the inside of my camera bags.Another habit I try to keep is put your lens cap in your bag ,not in your pocket where lint can transfer to the cap then onto the lens.
Thank ya!
great video! do wish fuji closed the shutter to protect the sensor.
haha...my method of cleaning the sensor is to never let it get dirty in the first place.
It's an expensive method...don't change out lens unless you really have to and only in very clean situations.
Although I don't do this...if I was financially able would always have a dedicated camera to a specific lens.....carrying them all around too would not be practical or easy...but to me that's my ultimate method, lol.
I keep a UV or a cpl on my lens all of the time. I clean the front lens element as often as you clean your sensor
I saw a video where the presenter said for the GFX cameras it's best to have them on and use the IBIS lock setting when cleaning the sensor.
Great tip about hot shoe covers, I'd better order some :)
If I have blue sky in my image and plan on printing (especially large print) I would go back and use the dust button in the healing tool in Lightroom, this will reveal spots too.
Makes total sense. I’ve just bought an EOS700D second hand. Very light spots at F22 on white paper. But having taken over 100 shots after this, totally unnoticeable on regular shots. So I’ve left it alone and not bothered to clean it.
How often do you recommend to do it in an R6 Mark II?
Hi @MarkDenneyPhoto
I have carefully watched all your videos... i found out that every time you pick up your camera from the backpack that you placed on the ground in the dirt. Then you open the camera that is facing upward looking at the sky above you instead of downward, finally you pick up a lens and attach it.
Every camera sensor is going to collect a lot of dirt if you do so, i bet you have more dust than megapixels!😂
Great video; I am always amazed at the reaction I get when I tell people about sensor cleaning. I shoot lots of rodeos and other dusty dirt-blowing events. If I have to change lenses, I duck into a building; I carry a pocket full of Zeiss lens wipes, use a sensor kit if things are nasty, and carry a rocket blower. This past summer, I picked up a Nitecore BB2 electronic blower, which is always in my bag. It takes a quick USB charge and does the trick on everything ; they also sell soft lenses and sensor brushes. What would take me a few minutes of hand pumping I can do in seconds. It really moves dust.
Watching this again, for lens swaps, if I have a place ot put both lenses, I like to loosen the cap of the lens I'm going to put on (but not remove the cap). Line-up the dot with the dot on the other lens, and then quickly remove the bottom from the old lens, and quickly attach it to the new lens. Usually I can do this within a second, but I also try to keep my body as a shield to protect the lens, especailly if it's a little windy and I HAVE TO change lenses (usually if it may be windy or questionable -- like in Winter) I'll try to just carry two bodies and not change lenses to begin with. But if I do, I will do that, or I will use my little home made lens-changing bag which helps reduce the possibility of debris and dust getting into the camera or the back of the lens (works sort of like a dark bag for film where you operate it with both hands through holes in the sides.
I would say if your camera has a sensor shield (some of the Nikon and Canon cameras have this feature now) I would use it. It can greatly reduce the amount of dust/debris that can get in while changing lenses, although if there is debris on the back of the lens, this will not prevent dirt from getting transferre that way, so maybe blow off the back of your lenses as part of your cleaning routine and if you have time, before you attach them.
For tripod in Water, I have used small baggies (sturdy baggies) if I need to push the tripod leg into the sand or dirt when photographing water subject for stability reasons. Usually this works (although sometimes the leg can slip through the bag -- puncture it) but it does help reduce the amount of sand that can get into the tripod leg.
The hotshoe cover thing is good, and I'm a bit surprised because when I bought a Nikon D750 back in 2014, it didn't come with one from the factory and everyone else I know who bought one, didn't get one either, and Nikon's response to this was that they felt that it could trap moisture and cause issues so they stopped including them (they did resume on subsequent models after people comment on the downsides -- shorting out without a cover -- being more common than moisture and dirt getting under the cover and causing issues -- so most or all new Nikons now include the cover. I've sort of saved them from previous cameras that I've sold (which where mostly Nikons so the shoe covers were basically the same) so I have spares. The cover is also good in case your camera dose happen to fall upside-down on the hot shoe as this can help prevent it from distorting and/or damaging the contacts too, so it does help with that as well. I know people who had exposed hotshoes that otherwise dropped their cameras and the hotshoe was thus useless or they had to send them off to be fixed.
Two things. First, any reason not to use a soft, CLEAN brush on the lens elements with a few more blasts of air between blowing off dust and wiping it off? Maybe dislodge something that is loosely attached and save the wiping. Second, be cautious about the wipes used. The Zeiss wipes use isopropyl alcohol and I've never had any trouble using them on anything. My work place provided us with wipes that used, I believe, ethanol alcohol which damaged the coating on my eyeglasses. Thankfully, they were due for replacement.
I had owned my Sony FX3 for nearly 2 weeks before "the lens swap/sneezing disaster!" - I can live with sensor blemishes on a 10 year old camera, but not when I'm spending more than i do on a new car! (I buy cheap cars)
I’d use Canadian made visibleDust for both camera sensor and housing(blowing won’t work as the housing is designed to grab to any dirt you blow)
For lens I’d use Lens Pen, not a big fan of touching all those lens coatings with a wet cloth. Thank you
I cleaned the sensors in my D500 and Z7II a number of times. I haven't needed to with the Z8 yet. Only blow a bit of dust out.
If you do a lot of aviation photography, you'll soon notice any spots on the sensor. Also blow out any dust from the lens cap.
Enjoyed this video very much. Good info. I'm still afraid to clean my sensor myself but it should would save me money to do it myself. Also, good point on the hotshoe cover. Ordered some just now. Thanks, Mark.
When using the blower, I like to create a negative pressure area underneath the camera with a vacuum cleaner hose so any dislodged dust is drawn down and sucked away. Otherwise you just dislodge the dust to float around aimlessly. Blowing & sucking is a practiced artform, as we all know...
Great video, Mark! This topic just came up this week between my girlfriend and I. We are headed to Acadia National Park next week and she cleaned her sensor for the first time since she bought the camera several years ago. I wish you had put this out last week! :) Thank you
Enjoy your trip!
As needed. Not very often, perhaps one every year or two.
Can confirm, I was super scared to do this the first time and wanted to go to a shop. But it's really no big deal.
One tip I always follow. Face your camera down when changing lens's so dust doesn't fall into it.
I only clean my sensor after I see a issue.
I've had great success with Eye lead sensor cleaner (gum stick), its reusable and you can target areas instead of wiping the whole sensor and causing more of a mess. Been using them for 5 years maybe and they are great.
Thanks for the video!
Thanks Mark! Love the Lightroom method to see the spots and I didn't know about the glass in front of the sensor...like you, I'm not as apprehensive of about cleaning as I was.
Great instructions! Thanks a lot! And: nice, relaxed Tempo. Good breathing. You really manage to show your personality in a friendly, relaxed manner.
I've never even seen the sensor on my R5! I've done checks now and then (blue sky) but still haven't found any spots. Having the shutter cover the sensor when it's off seems to be working great.
Not very often. I just cleaned my GFX and Sony RIV using the VSGO sensor cleaning kit. Easy to use and cheap too. Lenses this day are pretty well made I dropped two of my lenses recently and broke two of UV filters but there were no other visible damage to the lenses.
A point on tripods in sea water. I agree that the lowest leg portion should be in the sea. After this, I wouldn’t close the lower portion of the leg which has been under water until I’d cleaned it in fresh water (probably in the shower!). Thanks for the video, especially sensor cleaning.
Cleaning goes perfect and is an easy job. Bether than correcting in lightroom. 😉
I just bought a completely new camera, and you are right, the sensor is not remotely clean, i tested it in lightroom. I dont want to stress about it, just want to focus on taking great photos. Your videos helped me a lot, so thank you.
I used to send my old camera into be cleaned by a "Specialist" who would charge me a lot and take a week to do. Only when I bought my new one and started to take photography seriously, did I learn how easy it is to do yourself.
Great timing! I’ve been putting off cleaning the sensor on my camera, but have a photography trip planned for eastern NC this weekend. Time to get it done!
Great tips, Mark! I love the Zeiss wipes - just enough moisture to do the job, but not so saturated that they leave droplets on the glass. I *do* shoot the blower on the sensor every time I change lenses - indoors if possible. I only clean the sensor when necessary - I was surprised that, following my 11 days in the Iceland Highlands in August, my sensor was still spot-free. When I take a test shot of the white screen, I will rotate the camera in a slow circle during the exposure. The sensor spots will not move!
For someone that also do time lapse is actually pretty important to keep a clean
So I do check the cleanest before i starts a time lapse of attempt, Sometimes It get very messy when the dust spot is in the wrong spot in a time lapes at and already rare magic hour and you need to junk the whole timelapes because few dust in a realy wrong sport that cannot be clean up after trying hour on different software😢
Adding fresh grease to the tripod threads after you brush them will also help keep the threads clean. I use bicycle grease since that is what I have.
Thank you for this learned a lot from this video.. Didn't know about the hot shoe covers I have ordered some now.
I'd also recommend testing your gear prior to travel. I brought along my drone in a trip to Colorado this week and got a motor error message. It worked the last time I used it and sat in a cabinet until this trip. I assumed it would work properly and that was a costly mistake.
Thanks for those advices! I'll try that right away. Hope this will fix what I need.
Thank you for putting my mind to rest on cleaning the sensor. I will also apply the other maintenance lessons recommended.
I keep a small 1" roll of gaffer tape in my bag for various reasons, but I find a little square off tape on the hot shoe cover helps keep it in place.
The explanation that there is a thin layer of glass on the sensor has just put my mind a little more at ease as well! Thanks for that and another calmly informative video. I brought my GFX to this year's Burning Man, and though I was thrilled by the lack of visible dust infiltration, I am sure my sensor will benefit from a swab
I prefer to use a separate harder brush for the outside of camera and lenses to remove sand and mud and a softer brush for the lens glass. I want to avoid sand particles sticking in the brush and cleaning the glass with it. Maintenance is indeed important and especially necessary for the equipment you can use for a lifetime like a good tripod. Don’t forget to also clean your bags outside but especially inside where sand and mud can stick on dividers and in pockets. An annual bag cleaning and treatment with a durable water repellent will extend the lifespan of the bag and is protecting your equipment.
Mark, An excellent "how to" video as usual. Thanks and keep up the great work.
You might want to mention the additional steps required for those of us who have dslr's, that being raising the mirror
For cameras with in-body stabilization, it is vital to lock down the camera for cleaning to prevent damage to the sensor stabilizer.
Another tip when taking a picture of your white screen: move the camera around in a circular motion across the screen to cancel out any potential dirt or flaws on the screen itself.
Thanks, Mark, for some great advice, well explained and easy to follow. I now feel more confident about cleaning the sensor!